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string | URL
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string | year
int64 | category
string | season
string | location
string | description
string | editor
string | publish_date
string | designer_name
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,006 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
While violinists played classic Prince hits in the background, Phillip Lim spoke about wanting to inject some "street elegance" into his popular year-old 3.1 line. The closest the show got to street, though, was a Hendrix-style band jacket worn over a shirtdress and a biker vest paired with a plaid shirt that might have appealed to a Richards sister. Actually, it was a good thing that Lim didn't push his theme to an extreme. The appeal of his pretty-but-cool clothes is that they don't try too hard. Here, that meant a ruff-collar blouse to pair with shorts, a houndstooth trench with rolled sleeves, or a bow-belted skirt. And who could resist a shearling box coat trimmed with rope beading à la Chanel?
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 6, 2006
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,007 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
"Clothes people wear." With that deceptively simple mantra as a guiding principle, Phillip Lim has built an impressive contemporary label that other aspiring young designers might be wise to study. Not only because he does a bang-up business, but specifically because he somehow succeeds in making clothes that look much more expensive than they actually are—not, as is too often the case, the other way around.WithGrey Gardens' Edie Bouvier Beale as inspiration—"pedigree minus prudence," Lim called it backstage—the designer showed his most ambitious collection by far. It opened with a prep schooler's bow-front shirt, plaid skirt, and double-breasted coat and it closed with an ivory debutante dress in laundered silk gazar. In between, Lim perfectly evoked the studied insouciance of the swish set with a short metallic shift over a fitted tee, a white boyfriend blazer worn with a strapless turquoise cocktail dress, and a tough leather jacket topping a pinafore. And even with all those layers, a head-to-toe look could still run less than a blouse on the designer floor.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 3, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,007 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim's first-ever runway presentation got off to a frustrating start when an eager crowd had to wait in the near dark to gain access to their seats. But all was forgiven once his lovely show began. Working almost exclusively in white, with a few shots of navy, as well as a colorful floral, the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund finalist proved that he's not only a romantic—handmade rosettes decorated a T-shirt dress—but also an accomplished tailor. Lim can do simple, as demonstrated by a pair of high-waisted, pleated slacks, but he can also do complex: the crepe de chine blouse paired with those pants came with delicate sleeves of pleated tulle.Lim has a knack for combining the dressy and the casual—take a cotton voile strapless bell dress paired with a men's leather pilot vest, for instance; or a girlish jumper with an attached bodice made of sequins. Is it day or evening? His clients couldn't care less. More so than most young designers working today, Lim knows how fashionable women want to dress.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2006
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
He's a designer who often dismisses his clothes with an offhand, "It's just pretty. It's not trying tobeanything." But a few days before his Fall show, it was obvious that Phillip Lim had a lot on his mind—from the tanking economy's effect on both the world at large and his own expanding business to the growing up he's done personally as a designer to, oh, Stevie Nicks and David Bowie.Boil it all down and Lim's major impetus was maturity, his own and his customers'. That was clear from the first look out, a suede duster over a silk blouse and a midcalf skirt that looked a bit dowdy. But variety is the beauty of 3.1, and one of the reasons it's a retail darling: Stores and girls can buy it and wear it their way. So, amid the more staid fare (a thin gray V-neck sweater over gray flannels, or ladylike matelassé coats and dresses), Lim kicked up the cool factor with a tiny leather flight jacket (worn with an urban-bohemian maxidress) and what he calls "the new power suit": a black denim boyfriend blazer over terrific matching wide-leg jeans. There were several great dresses and great coats, too. Soon, 3.1 boutiques will be opening in Tokyo and Los Angeles, and shoppers will easily find what they came for.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 5, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
A Mercer Street store! A children's line! Eyewear! Perhaps it's all the endless goings-on in the house of Phillip Lim that were making him feel a bit escapist. "I wanted to make clothes that were ready for travel," he said before the show. Amelia Earhart was on his mind.The voyage began with his favorite model, Irina Lazareanu, in a khaki coat with epaulets (an easy best seller) over the more directional ensemble of a white shirt with an oversize tie and harem pants. From there the audience was transported in many stylistic directions, from sexy minis with exposed zips to a backless raffia cocktail dress, from a gray cashmere bandeau twinset to a Michael Jackson red leather jacket. Some looks, like a safari jacket over a pleated chiffon dress, made obvious statements about the improvisational nature of dressing on the go.Lim's eveningwear sells like hotcakes, and he expanded on the theme with a series of dresses fashioned in the style of Madame Grès, the Parisian mistress of pleats and draping. These were a sure thing for after eight, but it would have been nice to see a newer idea.Piece by piece, Spring offered the legions of Lim fans more of what they adore. But, taken as a whole, the message wasn't as coherent as Fall's—and awkward staging didn't help. After their loop on the sloped circular runway, the models placed themselves on a mushroom cluster of round platforms at its center. This caused a bit of confusion among the models and frustration among the photographers. Standing there, Lim's amassed crew looked like a crowd of chic strangers in an airport.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 8, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2008
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2008/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
resort
|
CFDA Swarovski Award winner Phillip Lim didn't mess with his hitherto successful formula for resort. Riffing on some of his biggest hits so far, he showed long cardigans over brief A-line dresses; flaring, pleated Alaïa-esque miniskirts with silk blouses; and cropped pants topped by boxy jackets. A ruffled-hem short chambray dress with a macramé belt looked fresh, as did a shirt in the same fabric with military epaulets that was worn with boy-cut trousers. The collection's highlight was a cocktail dress made from hundreds of tight whorls of tulle, a couture-like take on his best-selling flower appliqué T-shirt dress from spring. "Just don't call them rosettes," he said.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 2, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Thanks for asking, but business is just dandy in the Land of Lim, an exotic place where sell-throughs are strong, and where wait lists and reorders really do exist. "People still like the prices," reported Lim a few days ago in his studio. (That wait list, by the way, is for Spring's zipper dress.) His packed-to-the-rafters show (with Kanye and Amber Rose in attendance) clearly reflected his all-is-good state of affairs. Under the runway set of an illuminated arch, hipster singer Lissy Trullie and her band played live throughout. Spinning 180 degrees from last Fall when talk centered on growing up, this season Lim embraced the youthquake of sixties London, with all its vast attendant visual territory to mine: Biba, Ossie Clark, Granny Takes a Trip, Jimi Hendrix, Sergeant Pepper. Lim bopped easily from one influence to another, with lean Keith Richards-esque suits and groovy-glam marabou and goat-hair coats making nice with a slew of softly bohemian dresses (which will be the lazy girl's route to a fab vintage look). More than ever, Lim focused on coats. Those wishing to get their bandleader on for a nice price (and in a somewhat low-key manner) need look no further. A parka with rabbit-fur sleeves? Check. A gray breakaway shearling? Check. "It's about fun," said Lim. It's also about merch—mountains of it. In need of an edit? Maybe so, but if business is good, then bring it on.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 17, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The elaborate blond wood Moorish arches at the mouth of the runway were an obvious clue that Phillip Lim was about to hitch a ride onto a Spanish caravan for Spring. Far from rehashing flamenco skirts, the designer extracted a few choice motifs from his Andalusian inspiration. Foremost was the ruffle, which fluttered on the back flaps of chiffon trenchcoats and wobbled in tightly mashed form atop the bright Christian Louboutin pumps, but most often it came slightly flattened and unevenly tiered on the hems of garçon jackets and knit dresses. There was also a flash of mantilla fringe, and dresses and coats with the geometric echo of those mosques-turned-cathedrals.When it comes to his ever-growing business, however, Lim's focus goes beyond Iberia to the global front. And it's that international market's demand for more fashion ("they want the crazy," he said, a few days before the show) that encouraged him to be in experimental mode. But Lim's version of Direction for the Masses—heightened by skewed-bun hairdos and kooky double-loop belts in which many saw strains of Viktor & Rolf—was a bit overdone. There are undeniably great pieces in this collection, but Lim occupies a strange orbit in the fashion universe as the contemporary designer who garners attention equal to his higher-priced counterparts. Now that everyone's listening, sending a cohesive message of brand identity may be the next step.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 9, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim is already known as a commercially conscious designer, and he wasn't afraid to describe his Resort collection as more dedicated to his customer than ever. With a massive nod to Chanel's Deauville in classic little jackets, twinsets, and nautical references, he offered a smart, aspirational wardrobe of iconic pieces meant to appeal to both his young fans and their mothers. The breezily elegant column gowns he showed for evening may well instigate a family tiff.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
June 11, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A lot of designers like to think they know "what girls want," but Phillip Lim really has a knack for it. He senses early which way the winds are blowing, then nimbly and ably harnesses them with his chic pragmatist's sensibility. For Fall, he's getting in on fashion's clean-up act, now underway. "Last season, everything was on the outside," the designer said last week. "This season, we're paring down to the essence." That was seen to best effect in his strong, gotta-have-it outerwear. Take your pick from a luxe black buckled cape, a collarless camel coat edged in black silk, a leopard-print shaved rabbit fur, or a hybrid shearling-and-tweed toggle coat.That new simplicity dovetailed with part of Lim's inspiration, which set itself during a moment in the seventies when disco dissolved into punk and Halston's influence could still be felt. But the best souvenir from this bit of sartorial time travel was the trousers. The murmur of approval began with a pair of black suede flares in the second look, and slowly grew with the many creased and high-waisted pants that followed. One caveat: Most were cut in a seemingly heavy silk, sometimes with an animal print, that was pleasing to behold but didn't have immediate real-world appeal. (Though we reserve judgment until we've tried them on. We did just call Lim a chic pragmatist.) The best ones came in a blush bouclé and were paired with a languid gold sequin blouse. With an evening option like this, his severely asymmetrical silk dresses—hacked off, according to Lim's backstory, by an erstwhile Studio 54 reveler—seemed like less fun.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 16, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2010-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Style.com did not review the Fall 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
| null |
February 11, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
"Everyone says to back off aesthetically," said Phillip Lim, days before his show. "But that's not what's selling." Clearly, that counseling script should be flipped, and "everyone" should instead be heeding Lim, he of the stellar sell-throughs. The designer said he had been thinking about recasting basics, and working on a kind of primitive collage concept inspired by a visit to thePicasso: Mosqueterosshow at the Gagosian. But unlike Fall's collection, with its bohemian rock-chick vibe, Spring wasn't about an overarching theme or look: It was about giving them a reason to shop, and as such, there were many arguments here for a girl to unfreeze her AmEx.Lim set the stage with a jaggedly geometric red runway and opened with a lipstick-red suit. You might have mistaken it for a jumpsuit, but that's because the jacket was unlined and light enough to be tucked in. Lim called it "the new suit." It's machine-washable. The new dress, meanwhile, is a swingy, heart- and purse-string-pulling collage with panels of knife pleats, leather, and sequins, arranged in various compositions—perhaps a few too many. An iridescent sequined top and shorts will also send the Lim-ings off a shopping cliff. There was yet more specialness in a basic navy knit spiffed up with a croc jacquard, or the miss-it-from-the-second-row subtle lizard pattern on a blush trench—the result of the designer's recent reptile obsession. In short, this was a collection to sell, sell, sell, no matter what the prevailing wisdom.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 15, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2010-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Style.com did not review the Spring 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
| null |
September 10, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
resort
|
The rock chick of Phillip Lim's Fall collection has landed on the beach. "She's a pirate," says the designer, pointing out the patchwork denim, the antique lace, and the "sun-bleached" florals and lamés. Still, this collection was as keyed into what hip urbanites want to wear as ever. Lim's super-popular jumpsuit made a reappearance; he showed several smart suits, this season with double-breasted jackets and rolled-hem shorts; and his trenches came every which way, including in sheer polka dots, faded floral sequins, and a lizard-stamped linen. (The latter looked disarmingly like the real thing, but was practically weightless—and will retail for less than $600.) On the news front, Lim has incorporated lingerie elements into everything from sheer blouses with built-in bra tops to a fluttery chiffon evening dress suspended from a sequined bralette.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 7, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Girls on bikes. Of Phillip Lim's satchelful of references for Fall, that was the most interesting. After all, there's something terribly cool about a look that's remarkably stylish, yet not so precious that it'll be compromised by all that pedal-pushing. "It's about these chic women who ride bikes to work, to brunch, to a cocktail party," Lim said backstage before the show. "But how do you make everything functional without sacrificing form?"His answer was to splice functional-looking athletic and utilitarian elements into a chic fall urbanite wardrobe of cropped pants and smart coats. A navy silk dress took its cues from the classic nylon anorak, and silk jumpsuits had raglan sleeves—leather for day, covered with bobbling bronze beads for evening. And that's OK. But as such, this hybrid look isn't a million miles away from the mixed-up approach other designers have taken in recent seasons. Nevertheless, it yielded some nice pieces—mostly outerwear—like a black bonded-silk utility coat with big patch pockets, a letterman's jacket in curly lamb and leather, and sturdy ribbed cardigans sliced up the side. A white silk dress, modeled after a baseball jersey, with beaded sleeves was unexpectedly simple and lovely.However, the show wasn't without its moments of awkwardness, particularly in stiff carrot-shaped pants and squared-off culottes, all cut with an extra fold of material pleated onto the front. They were inspired by Lim's visual research of tribes and gangs. (That swirling floral print, by the way, was a nod to Japanese yakuza tattoos.) As Lim explained, cholos buy their pants too big and fold them in to have a heavier stance, something, it's fair to say, no shopping woman ever wants. Who ever said the battle of form and function would be easy?
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 15, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2011-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
menswear
|
fall
|
"I love dressing up, but I'm still young," Phillip Lim said today during his first Paris menswear presentation, at the city's breathtaking Mint. "So how do you keep elegance youthful?"He found his answer in what he calls "sartorial idiosyncrasies"—hook-and-eye closure blazers, electric green and navy jacquards, evening sweatpants, and a sleeveless knit turtleneck pullover that he put over a suit and likened to a car cover. And yet for all those idiosyncrasies, there was a renewed emphasis on tailoring here, and an inquisitiveness and openness to experiment that pushed Lim's men's collection into a stronger space than it has occupied before. Take a lapel-less car coat: The designer was thinking about structure, but also about comfort, so while the front side is traditionally cut, the back is raglan, and it falls like a cardigan. Not a bad idea.There's a space-age strain to Lim's designs that sometimes sends him a little far afield. A marled French terry sweat suit looked like a television's static fuzz. But for every piece that didn't quite come off, there was one with verve to spare.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 21, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
pre-fall
|
Designers eager to replicate Phillip Lim's success should study the crepe mélange "sweatshirts" in his pre-fall collection. Lim saw his assistants wearing sweatshirts to work and loved the look, so he whipped up a few versions of his own in a crisp mélange fabric, trimming some in crystals at the neckline. Smart move. It might come as a shock to people in fashion, but most corporate dress codes don't smile on gym clothes at the office. Function has always been as compelling to Lim as form, and it is again for pre-fall. An untreated rabbit fur coat, for instance, reverses to navy. Wrap-front trousers can be worn with the flaps hanging down at the sides for a more undone vibe. And in a move that will delight fans of 1990s Helmut Lang, Lim has inserted straps inside coats at the armholes, the better to keep them in place when slung over the shoulders.The loose inspiration for the collection was the late British writer and cartographer Freya Stark. Her travels in the Arabian Desert seemed to influence the color palette of rusts, persimmons, and olives, as well as the uniformlike feel of a navy shirtdress and camel suiting. But Lim is a resolute modernist. His latest innovation: cotton woven with abaca, a fibrous plant native to the Philippines, for a crisp, sturdy hand.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 20, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
"Is that part of the skirt?""Well, it's a dress here, and the apron goes on top. So it's, like, is it one piece? Two pieces? Three pieces? The apron really abstracts the negative space and changes the silhouette."That's a brief excerpt from a preview conversation last week with Phillip Lim, in which he explained his puzzle-piece concept: Backless, side-less, and bottomless garments all somehow came together to form a full look. It was certainly an ambitious gambit, not easy to pull off, but it made for one of the best and most refined 3.1 collections to date.The most important thing Lim did right was to not stray from the very familiar ground of clean sportswear, and to keep the palette neutral. He also developed his idea of spatial abstraction by playing with sheers, resulting in some of the best experiments with the trend we've seen this week. The backs of leather-paillette-covered T-shirts were done in see-through organza; nude tulle shifts were embroidered with five varieties of black lace; and the trench was given a chic new spin in translucent organza, edged in black and covered in little bobbing threads.There was definitely a greater sense of luxury, particularly in the beautiful silk menswear tailoring. (Perhaps those looks betrayed his admiration for the tailoring on last season's Paris runways. Or perhaps we're seeing the influence of Nancy Rohde, the stylist and Dries Van Noten consultant who worked on the collection and was Lim's first-ever show stylist.) Another thing Lim has going for him, of course, is that he will always offer the nicer price, and that should propel the bags and shoes that debuted here today into the retail stratosphere.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 14, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2011-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim's show notes were prefaced by the following: "The Bougie Rocker—'they say he was cocky, he said he was alive.' " But Lim's guys didn't rock so much as they rolled. These are unrepentant dandies, who don't raise an eyebrow at paisley two ways—printed tonally on jackets, picked out in embroidered relief on slouchy suede lounge pants. (And in a few looks, both at once.) There was a conscious YSL echo in the safari—excuse me, "city-fari," according to the description—vests and the belted "Laurent" jacket. If the translucent knits and trailing silk scarves were a little forward-leaning for the average guy, some smart play with texture and construction showed Lim's talent for injecting wit and luxury in a way that anybody can appreciate. A cognac-colored windbreaker only looked as pliant as nylon—actually, it was whisper-thin lambskin.Lim's men's collections are exquisite—possibly too much so at times. But they're refreshing to see in the world of New York menswear, which has largely hewed of late to the gruff, guy's-guy school of workmanly standards. Compared with the competition, the Lim boys looked like peacocking visitors from Planet Stardust. "Take me to your leader," they might say. And would you look at that? Sitting front-row, it's Kanye West.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
September 9, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim asked himself one question when designing Resort: "Would Bianca wear this?" That's Ms. Jagger, of course, and her part-tailored, part-louche influence could be detected in everything from a beige gabardine double-breasted suit to cropped silk kimonos (or "kiminis," as Lim dubbed them) to exotic gold collar necklaces. A draped silk cowhide-patterned dress offered a fresh take on an animal print, and a mint-green leather romper was equal parts tough and sweet."I considered how every piece would fit into a girl's life," the designer said. While a chinoiserie-style jumpsuit in sea foam silk has limited real-world potential—unless your schedule includes frequent jaunts to the Riviera, à la Jagger in the seventies—other pieces show Lim's understanding of his customers' fast-paced twenty-first-century lives. Case in point: an off-white blazer with removable leather cuffs and bomberlike lapel detail. Call it three looks for the price of one.
|
Romney Leader
|
June 3, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,012 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Nothing overtly said, "Ka-Pow!" but today's show found Phillip Lim kicking around the idea of superheroes, a theme he had started to explore in his pre-fall collection. "It's this idea of modern-day superheroes who are walking around us every day," the designer said after the show.If that sounded slightly abstract, the collection was largely grounded in reality. Lim did open with a cape, but the resounding message of his mostly monochromatic and minimal parade of sleek jackets, deconstructed sturdy ribbed knits, sharply creased trousers, and great tailored coats was simply this: strong clothes for strong women. (Having said that, which of us doesn't believe in the power of clothing to produce something akin to a phone booth transformation?)Lim also had ideas about duality. There was dark versus light in the punchy graphic interplay of pieces delineated in black and white, and hard versus soft in the weaponlike pointy toes of ladylike pumps. A smoke machine (apparently turned to 11) set a noir-ish stage, telling you all wasn't as it seemed. Nothing evil was lurking, and, quite frankly, nothing too surprising, just the slightly surreal twist of cardigans turned back to front or upside down, along with collarless coats with indented flat collars and trompe l'oeil metal collars.The strains of "This Is a Man's World" began to play mid-show, though it could have looped throughout. There was only one look that even approximated something cocktail-appropriate. Don't even superheroines need a night off every now and then?
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 12, 2012
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,012 |
pre-fall
|
Sin City.V for Vendetta. Phillip Lim dug into neo-noir comic books for pre-fall. The results were almost kitsch in the case of intarsia cashmere sweaters and oversize varsity jackets embroidered with block letters, but more often than not the collection was subtle and versatile—as befits a designer known for statements like this: "Everyone wants garments to be superheroes. This 'fill in the blank' should save your day, your week, your year."In fact, many of the pieces could do just that, starting with the outerwear. Lim designed puffer jackets made from high-tech Japanese polyfill that are not only very nearly weightless but also reversible: Wear the quilted side for a more countrified look and the plain side for the city. Blazers in navy or ivory, meanwhile, came with functional zippers at the waist. If you felt like it, you could purchase both and have four jackets for the price of two.Other pieces played on the idea of a superhero's costume. A peacoat, for instance, had a capelike back. And he pushed the cape idea further with trousers veiled in chiffon and shorts with sheer slit-skirt overlays. What's always appealed about Lim's clothes is their anti-conceptualism; his pants are among his best sellers because they're exceedingly well cut for their price. So there were plenty of straightforwardly chic pieces here, as well. Which brings us back to his outerwear. It'd take superhuman strength to resist the simple elegance of his side-zip polyurethane-dipped tweed coat.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 13, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,012 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
You can usually count on Phillip Lim to be squarely on top of the direction of the season. But this Spring, as so many zigged to Technicolor and try-and-top-this prints, Lim zagged toward something refreshing, airy, and minimal—a sartorial sorbet. His reference, in fact, was an object made to fly away: the kite. It was taken literally in tops and dresses sewn from rectangular panels with loose edges that fluttered as the models walked. Colorful strips were sandwiched inside nylon shells and left long to stream about like tails.After the show, Lim talked about his childhood and how it sparked those pretty pales that looked like they'd been left in the sun, and the charred blacks. But the nostalgia also leaned to nineties Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, which Lim didn't disavow when it was suggested. "I'm a child of the nineties," he said. "Your references are what you grew up with." So while this look was soft, it wasn't sweet. Rather, there was a refined sportiness to those slouchy but elegant silk trousers with track-pant vents that opened over a shoe, and in the layering of macaron hues in very measured doses. Lim's wide culottes were cut like basketball shorts and inset with mesh on the inseams. But the execution was so subtle, you might have never noticed.Lim says his guiding principle is "sophisticated youth." Backstage he pointed to model Dempsey Stewart in her own chic navy mesh pullover and black jersey skirt to illustrate what he meant. She was ready to hit the street, and that was the point. At a time when lady clothes seem to be the default setting for New York designers, it's nice to see a different approach.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 13, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2012-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,012 |
menswear
|
spring
|
With the adult-size accomplishments—the booming international business, the Paris presentations—it's easy to forget that, at base, Phillip Lim is a young man designing for young men. It's a point Lim's reiterated time and again, but his clothes occasionally tell a different story. They sometimes aim for a kind of exquisiteness, and stumble a bit when they do. But for his latest collection, Lim celebrated the young and the grungy unapologetically, and carried off a presentation with a winning energy and zest, and not just because he used an icy yellow he's dubbed "lemonata."Skaterdom—the kind he witnessed firsthand growing up in Huntington Beach, California—provided the inspiration. He spoke of admiring skate punks for their whatever-works attitude toward dressing. It's one shared, in large part, by the droves of male models making their way through Paris this week—and, food for thought, the skateboard is their preferred mode of transport, too. Arrayed in a garage (just the sort of place, no coincidence, where board types would whip down the ramps and grind on the railings), Lim's guys had that insouciance, without some of the fussiness that's held his menswear back a bit in seasons past. There were plenty of opportunities for the designer to flex his token fancies—the ombré jeans, the mirror-ized boots, the jumpsuits—but also pieces here that reflected the slouch and sloth of teen-boy wardrobing, and (the best part) more than a few pieces that hit a happy medium. The wide-leg, acid-washed denim drawstring pants (in a color a young punk might affectionately call "snot") may be a hard proposition for the over-30s. But a chintz-ed silk trench, sporty enough to go over them and light as a feather, had the mix of elegance and edginess that lifted this collection off the ground.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 24, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 23 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,012 |
resort
|
The temperature is steadily climbing to the infernal end of the thermometer in New York, so it was a breezy relief to enter Phillip Lim's Garment District showroom and find "the beginnings of a quintessential summer wardrobe" (albeit one that doesn't hit stores until November). Translation: loose layers and relaxed silhouettes.That's not to say Lim has caught the caftan fever that's going around. The designer added shape and chic to his Resort collection by focusing strongly on the waist, adding drawstrings to jumpsuits and cropped parkas and paper-bag closures to tiny shorts. Sometimes, his fascination got the better of him, as in a couple of harem pants whose wraparound sashes gave unnecessary heft. But overall, Lim's downtown clientele will find much to love. Colors are cooler—sky blue, white, sand, mint, and cream—though bursts of hot poppy and marigold appear here and there. Beasts (that is, leopard and ponyhair motifs) joined those flower colors to suggest a nature theme. But in the end, it will all feel right at home on city streets. That ponyhair is print, not skin, to give the look without the heat.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 2, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Shortly before the start of the 3.1 Phillip Lim show today, a man came out and splashed some kind of fluid around the catwalk. It seemed plausible—if only for a moment—that the fluid was kerosene and that the man was going to light the Lim runway on fire. Not only would an inferno have been dangerous and thrilling, but it would have been fitting, too: This was a collection with a scorched-earth attitude. Lim's inspiration this season was bikers, or more specifically and rather weirdly, girlfriends of bikers, and he abstracted that theme into a general air of menace. There were lots of literal references to biker aesthetics here—a preponderance of leather, patch-covered denim, and moto jackets, vests, sweatshirts, and even dresses. Those looks will move at retail, particularly the motorcycle vests and jackets that had a fluid, feminine spin. But the most interesting pieces in this show saw Lim interpreting his theme more liberally and conjuring a kind of shrugged-on, to-hell-with-it errant-ness. The collection's standout garment, for instance, was a big, purposefully ragged shearling coat with contrasting asymmetric lapels; Lim repeated the coat a few times, in different color combinations, and each time it looked compelling and new.Another superb coat, an asymmetric trench in teal wool, was a nattier riff on off-ness. Outerwear was an overall strength of this collection, in fact, and Lim did nearly as well with his trousers, which ranged from slouchy numbers (somewhat redolent of Céline, though that's hardly an anomaly on the New York runways this week) to taut knit track pants with moto-inspired quilting to super-skinny jeans patchworked in horizontal stripes. The main quibble here was the patched—as opposed to patchworked—denim. Frankly, those looks were a bit glib. But overall, Lim was up to something really intriguing this season, giving rough looks a sense of polish.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 10, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 25 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2013-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Black leather and bikers go together like horse and carriage (or car and driver?), but Phillip Lim's dark, funkified take on "café racer" chic veered off in its own direction. "I'm feeling this whole genre," Lim said of biker style, which he also channeled for his women's pre-collection. "It was how to make that genre not so literal, not so aggressive, not so one-sided."His solution was to make it rootsy. His bikers wore leather pants that slouched and rode high on the ankle. Their dungarees bore the stamp of foreign travel: They came lavishly, if graphically, embroidered. So did a leather moto jacket stitched over with white stripes. The camo print resembled ikat. Wherever they'd been, his racers brought back the stamp of other lands. "I always call it Escape From Bourgeoisie Island," Lim said with a laugh. "The one who got away returns." Even the title hinted at the distance and the difference:Sonomama, Japanese for "as you are."A Phillip Lim collection has wheat and it has chaff. That's astheyare. This one was no exception. But it held together better than some other recent outings, thanks to appealing individual pieces—key among them, a side-zipping sweatshirt in bonded leather, the brother to one in the women's collection, and a series of patchworked outerwear—and to the unifying power of black leather. What might have jarred gelled when kept confined to graphic black.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 16, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 26 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2013/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
pre-fall
|
For pre-fall, Phillip Lim was thinking of bikers and their molls, the kind of guys (and the girls who rode behind them) captured by Danny Lyon in his seminal bookThe Bikeriders. "I'm really into vintage Harley-Davidson," Lim said, though he went on to clarify that he didn't mean it in the cliché black-leather-jacket way—he had in mind a subtler sort of hog worship. Holding up Lim's own plaid trousers was a vintage Harley belt buckle; peeking out of the neck of his neat, tucked-in sweater was the top of his elaborate tattoo. Even when his girl's being bad, the designer explained, "the inner bourgeoisie always comes through." You could say the same about him. So while there were touches of rebellion in the collection—say, a recurrent motif of a phoenix, splashed on sweaters and picked out on leather tops—there was still the usual 3.1 politesse. It wasn't tidy, per se; too many layers for that. But even thigh-high boots (and leather-paneled skinny pants that suggest thigh-high boots) didn't dispel the sweetness. Sweatshirts in spongy techno-jersey under appliquéd cardigans in same are basically just twinsets, after all.Sweatshirt dressing has long been a Lim signature, and this collection overall felt more like a remix of old standards (and, one gathers, best sellers) than a breaking of new ground. But the designer hinted that, more than ever before, pre-fall would be a glimpse of Fall to come. And those side-zip sweatshirts, along with mini tunic dresses shown over cropped trousers, had more than a few women in the Style.com office panting in anticipation. "I always complain that there are no more gangs," Lim said wistfully. Actually, he's got his.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
December 4, 2012
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The notes at Phillip Lim's show today explained that he had been exploring "cut-up," a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead. Effectively, cut-up is a stratagem for nonlinearity: Write a ten-word sentence, pick out five of those words at random, and then reassemble them in an arbitrary order. Voilà. You could argue that cut-up, insofar as it applies to this latest 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, is just a pretentious way of saying mix 'n' match. Bin-diving eclecticism, and all that. But then, that's Lim's trick, isn't it? He takes rarefied ideas and makes them comprehensible and realistic. And he was at it again today.Take, for instance, his interpretation of sheers. This season, more than a few New York designers have been promoting the idea that, come spring, women are going to want to wear see-through clothes. This is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces in a show that was too often muddled by grunge-y layering and mixed-print sensory overload. But there were other looks that rang out as clear winners: Lim's patchwork denim is going to fly at retail; so, too, the shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 9, 2012
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2013-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Brazil is home to the second-largest population of Japanese in the world. That culture clash appealed to Phillip Lim, and for Spring, he mined the meeting of Japanese and Brazilian traditions, or what he called "Nipo-Brasileiro sub-cultures." He followed his nose to Mixed Martial Arts, MMA, which brings together Asian martial arts traditions with something closer to street fighting. "It's born from make-do and the ghettos," Lim said backstage after his show, which he headed with a snatch of a poem called "Street Fight." Then he clarified: "I wanted this character that was street stylers—fighters with hustler swagger. You're born from nothing, and you use clothes to get somewhere."That's perhaps a lengthier explanation for the presence of wide-legged karate pants than is necessary. And while reporters—present company included—now demand prehistories of collections from their designers, Lim sometimes gets overly caught up in his narrations. That can detract from what's genuinely great about his work, which is the askew angle he tilts his staples. What scored today were not the jackets with zip-off panels or printed canvas pants but the welcome ease of a bonded jersey parka with adjustable gussets. Items like that point to why Lim recently won the CFDA's Swarovski Award for the best emerging menswear designer.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 27, 2012
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,013 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim has a green thumb and a New Yorker's limited real estate. At his Manhattan apartment, he's coaxed a full garden into bloom on his fire escape. "A Charlie Brown garden," he called it. Charlie may never win, but Lim did, with a strong collection this time around.The floral influence was everywhere—even in the intarsia'd leopard prints, which on inspection turned out to be made of flowers, too—but it was mixed with a clean, palate-cleansing blankness and rigor. "Flutility" was Lim's word for it. The utility came through in khaki Mao suits of tapered pants and strict, high-buttoning tops, but their stringency was tempered by appliquéd raffia blossoms. The cocooning shape of skirts was inspired by petals, but they came not in soft fabrics but laminated pigskin, which had the oil-slick feel of hot pavement. Resort may be a vacationer's collection, but Lim's girls are urbanites through and through. "It's a pseudo vacation," he said. "Our make-believe staycation. How do you take a vacation when you're in the studio all night?"There was a sunny, island flavor to the sorbet-colored shorts suits corseted with inset rope and dangling fringe, but for the most part, this stark, mostly neutral offering had a workmanly spirit, plus a bit of make do and mend. (Not for nothing was all the denim shown "patched" with chain-linked sweater yarn.) The print of the season emphasized graphic lines borrowed, Lim explained, from city plans and maps. The staycation in action. But some got sweetened with a flowered overlay: a view of the city, seen by fire escape.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 4, 2012
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Here comes the sun! This season Phillip Lim gave his imaginary muse a name—Soleil—and designed a collection fitted to her summery personality. Despite evidence to the contrary, Lim made winter seem a cheerful affair, with brightly colored patchwork shearlings, peppy cold-weather pastels, pretty collage print dresses and button-down tops. What's not to like? Apparently even Soleil has some dark moods, however, and Lim's show was the better for it. If the upbeat clothes were very appealing, the ones that came out later, in deeper colors, had a moody poetry that added dimension to the collection. Of particular note were the knits, with their waterfalls of irregular ruffles. One ruffled sweater, in navy, made for a very convincing evening proposition when paired with Lim's nicely judged silk-satin wrap-over pant. As is typical for 3.1 Phillip Lim, the individual pieces here made a stronger statement than the collection as a whole, and this show was chock-full of additions to Fall's must-have list: The lace-up boots, one of those shearling coats, a baggy trench, a mid-calf skirt in lavender and aubergine…. Lim is keeping his Soleils happy, making stuff like that; it's not clear he needs to do more.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 9, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2014-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Phillip Lim left the West to found 3.1 Phillip Lim in New York, but you get the sense the West never left him. It's there in his groovy, SoCal brand of Zen, and it occasionally bubbles up into his collections, which are often structured around Western archetypes like surfers or easy riders. Today he added cowboys to his pantheon of alterna-heroes.Of course, the West isn't just a region on a map. Lim, given to lofty pronouncements, was channeling a West of the mind. "It's this territory that shadows the line between vanishing mythology and reality," he said. "The cowboy is its hometown hero."Lim's collections often ride that same line between mythology and reality that cowboys do. He's fond, especially when show season comes around, of dressing his men both larger and odder than life. But the cowboy theme actually served to ground him. This collection reminded you that Lim's label is built on gussied-up takes on essentially wearable clothes. Playing on Westerniana gave him the opportunity to indulge his decorative and outré side in context. Fall means leather, so there were jodhpur-cut leather lounge pants whose exaggeratedly high cuffs gave them the look of trompe l'oeil boots. Fall also means coats, but in addition to the oversize versions in speckled bouclé, Lim showed shirt-jackets in leather and in jersey: Not a new idea, but one which made good use of the turtleneck layering pieces that have emerged across the shows as a certifiable fall trend-to-be.Lim laughed at the suggestion that he might be pining for a move back West. He's in New York to stay, he said. But the West brought out good work in him. Even with its occasional thematic groaners, like the horse-print sweatshirts, this lineup seemed like a departure from the past few seasons—less finicky, more relaxed. Lim's icons have often been bad boys, but, he said, the cowboy represented a new tip of the hat to the good guys. "It's a new year," was his perfectly Zen explanation.
|
Tim Blanks
|
January 15, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 32 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
pre-fall
|
Phillip Lim turned 40 this year and threw himself a birthday party in the city where the party's never stopped: Berlin. He was fascinated by the "percolating current of rave culture" there. That culture is super modern—even if rave's first heyday was somewhere circa the nineties—and coexists with Berlin's crumbling stateliness. "They're living in a transitional landscape," he said. You can twist your glow sticks among elegant ruins.That got the wheels turning. Pre-Fall is a transitional collection, so put the two together and you're off. The collection had the frantic, sometimes messy energy of a party running late. The transitional theme was applied liberally, and often literally: pieces were properly tailored on one side and left raw and ragged on the other. In homage to the splicing of cultures in Berlin, fabrics were spliced together, like cream tailored jackets with slashed-in panels of floral jacquard. A novelty poodle motif, appliquéd on sweatshirts and clutches, was, with energetic illogic, spliced in from somewhere else entirely. (Poodle-grooming contests, Lim revealed: "They're almost vogueing competitions for poodles.")The mix worked best where the usual Lim hits—side-zipped sweatshirts, leather jogging pants—got a hint (or a hit?) of wildness. The sweatshirts in metallic foil, for instance, or the tops crawling with lichenous tufts of shearling. But in its more literal moments, such as a glow-stick print, the theme weighed down the charm of the collection. It just goes to show, the story of the party is rarely as good as the party itself.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
December 5, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 33 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim got deep into geology this season. And when asked, after his show, what got him so interested in the earth and its elements, the designer replied, simply, "standing on solid ground." Hmm. The comment was interesting not only because it was pretty opaque but also because the thing Lim got at really well in this collection wasn't earthen solidity but flux. That was especially true of this season's standout looks, which featured geode-inspired embroidery on organza. Geodes, for those readers who haven't visited a natural history museum in a while, are those rocklike mineral formations that split open to reveal swirls of many-hued crystal; they are a record of a moment of becoming. Lim's embroideries captured that, as did (to a lesser degree) his geode-inspired silk prints. Elsewhere, Lim took on the variegated palette and texture of seemingly monotone landscapes, translating that quality into metal-mottled, patchworked, and pearlized leathers. The pieces themselves never felt obnoxiously literal, though; women are going to like a fluid, knee-length skirt made from contrasting leathers whether they get the backstory or not. And Lim being Lim, there were a ton of garments here that were all about commercial rather than conceptual appeal—to wit, the wide-leg cuffed trousers or the pieces in sherbet-toned jacquard. Lim is an avid explorer; he just chooses to do his exploring close to home. On terra firma, as it were.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 8, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2014-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim's muse of the season was the so-called accidental tourist. He's a traveler, a surfer, a hoarder, and a mixer, piling on his inspirations out of context and out of order. "Nothing that should go together," is how Lim summed up the look, "but what holds it together is the boys' good form. Like surfing."Lim's surfers were precariously balanced between work and play, this climate and that. When a collection strives for eclecticism, it's hard to fault it for being eclectic. Lim's dizzy mix was unquestionably that. It opened with a series of buffalo-print pieces mixed with cracked, fringed leather, then worked through Baja stripes and solid colors to arrive at the Hawaiian florals that have, for whatever odd reason, become one of the touch points of the entire season. Nothing was off the table. Lim imagined his explorers mixing gift shop items with treasures from home, their tropical journeys bridging work and play. He fiddled with the shoulder zipper of a neoprene scuba top. "Play," he intoned when the zip was down, "and work," once he'd pulled it up. The scenario quickly reached well past any logical conclusion. "He didn't realize he had a meeting—on his surfboard," Lim said. "That's the new wave."A few among the many, many different menswear proposals here: head wraps Lim was calling "boo rags," snap-off "stripper pants," oversize beach bags with special towel holders, jelly sandals, kimono sleeves, Perfecto leather vests embossed with an oily glitter…. Some inevitably seemed more credible than others. Simpler tended to be better, as in the side-zip wool car coats that extended and elaborated upon the side-zip tunics the designer has been doing for seasons. Much of the remainder was esoteric. Or maybe it merely looked that way in the mix. Lim, who has a finely honed design eye for making covetable products, might take on more advice for the styling of his shows. He's close enough to the action that you'd believe his board meetings reallydidtake place on boards. Think what the attention of a calming presence might do—an accidental tourist wandering into a strange land.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 26, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 35 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,014 |
resort
|
"Who has the time to go on vacation anymore?" wondered Phillip Lim in his studio. Not him. With stores to open around the world, new locations to scout, ad campaigns to shoot, and more, he isn't the unplug-and-unwind type. Neither, he finds, is his customer. So he conceived his Resort collection as one to wear as you play while you work, or work while you play. The modern woman, Lim reasons, combines both.Once, the Lim girl played all day. But customers grow up, as brands do, and the women who first fell for the label in their twenties are now, as it chugs toward its tenth year in business, in their thirties. The transition from youth to maturity is one that's preoccupied the designer of late. "It's been such a watershed past year," he said. "I'm finally seeing a light and moving away from the sophomore blues." He spoke of streamlining his collection, refining past hits. Proportions were abbreviated and widened, but the aggressive styling Lim has favored in the past was tempered somewhat. There's still plenty of pop—those sherbet-hued laser-cut scuba leathers, the fuzzy pom-pom "dandelions" covering a bomber jacket—but to better effect. A few splattery prints, and one jokey one with farm animals, suggested last gasps of youth yet. But Lim has become a force to be reckoned with. He's got an international empire, and this week he won a CFDA Award for the second year running, this time for accessories. As if on cue, Resort features the debut of a backpack version of his hit Pashli bag. It could be the next best seller. That ought to buy him a few days' vacation.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
June 3, 2013
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
This year marks the 10th anniversary of 3.1 Phillip Lim. The occasion prompted Lim to take stock, and consider the essentials of his brand. His Pre-Fall collection was in some ways a greatest hits, a montage of his signatures. This time out, though, Lim took a somewhat different approach: His latest collection was a reconsideration of the 3.1 Phillip Lim aesthetic, and it found him deconstructing himself, the better to create a new language with the brand vocabulary he's established over the past decade. The key elements were in play—punchy takes on sportswear staples, menswear-inspired tailoring with a femme-y touch, a streetwise attitude. But Lim was literally working those themes free here, emphasizing silhouettes that were a little undefined, or, in his own word, "haphazard."A running motif in this collection, which also served as a metonym for the whole thing, was the strapping throughout. Lim often left his straps dangling, both to introduce a sense of movement and to underline the idea that these clothes were unbound. That notion was echoed in the collection's many handkerchief hems and layered asymmetries, as well as in the unraveled effect of frayed denim, distressed and eyelash knits, and lace that looked like it was in the process of disintegrating. One of the hardest things for any designer to accomplish is a convincing ersatz look, and for Lim—a creature of discipline—it's not an approach that comes naturally. But for the most part he managed it with aplomb. There were a few looks that seemed to be reaching too hard for an effect, but many more seemed authoritative and specific, even in their ersatz-ness.The strongest ensembles were the ones that seemed in dialogue with themselves, like the eyelash sweater in gray worn with a rather stern burgundy wrap skirt, or the top of white bias-cut silk, appliquéd with that disintegrating lace, that Lim paired with straightforward nylon cargo pants. Sometimes that conversation between discipline and disorder was to be found in a single gesture, like the scarf of fabric draped over one side of a black double-breasted wool coat. There were a lot of punk references here—not a new thing for Lim, but for the first time he seemed to be buying what he was selling. Break the system. Start with your own.
|
Maya Singer
|
February 16, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2015-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Preshow, Phillip Lim was using a chiffon-handled lint roll to make each look in his lineup just so, but he had a moment to yodel an idea in our direction. "It's a metaphor, from mountain climbing," he said. "Slow and steady will get you to the top." That metaphor was expressed pretty literally. A para-strap vest jacket looked mountain-rescue-ready, albeit less so in a knitted denim jacquard; rendered thus it was more urban-technical, with a hint of straitjacket. The nylon cords and metal carabiners of climbers scaled every Lim clothes face, from the chest of an adapted MA-1 to the belt loops of look 7's olive jumpsuit. The laces of the hiking boots were twists piled on twists. There were probably one or two too many climbing-rope big-fishnet sweatshirts and vests, but they segued nicely into a rust-on-black rope-print bomber—Gucci meets Mallory—that Lim could have made more of. And, um, five polystyrene boulders were suspended from the roof. Sprinkled among the more giddily stylized pieces were some "buy them off the runway" no-brainers: softened loden-esque overcoats, that rope-print bomber, oversize faded blanket-check separates. Even the jumpsuits had allure—or perhaps that was the altitude kicking in.Lim is a modest man who said of his theme: "I don't want to say, 'I climb,' because I don't want to embarrass the sport—but I try." And there was, he conceded, a quiet, personal parable hidden at the summit of this Fall '15 ascension. "It's about being an outsider looking in, and not giving in to the frenzied-ness of the industry," he said. "And in menswear, coming to Paris too—it's hard core here, but it's thebest. You've got to come and pay homage, be respectful, and slowly, steadily build your own language."
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 22, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
pre-fall
|
The time's gone by in a flash, hasn't it? 3.1 Phillip Lim turns 10 next year, and after a decade in business, Lim has decided it's time for a think-through. What is 3.1 Phillip Lim? What is it to him? What is it to his customers? The answer Lim came to, ahead of designing his latest collection, was this: 3.1 Phillip Lim is aboutclothes. That seems obvious, but given the pressure on designers to be conceptual at a rate of four collections a year, the idea of refocusing on the pragmatic production of appealing goods that people like to wear is refreshing. And Lim's clothes this season were both appealing and pragmatic. His sub-answer to the "What is 3.1 Phillip Lim?" question was, in essence, American sportswear with a global gloss, and with that in mind, he stuck to a few sturdy themes: suiting; sport-inspired separates; and unfussy frocks, skirts, and blouses with an off-kilter femininity. Eclectic elements, such as a vaguely Peruvian lace or the fringe edging various tropical-weight wool pieces, gave the looks that globe-trotting twist, while Lim's hybrid garments, such as a natty peacoat with a layered, coated canvas lapel, underscored his emphasis on the functional. The best-looking pieces in this collection, though, found Lim exploring a feminine aesthetic, sculpting asymmetric ruffles that read as womanly rather than girly. A pair of wool cigarette pants in gray, with a tabard-style fringed wrap about the hips, had a similar sense of grown-up-ness. That seemed appropriate: After 10 years, 3.1 Phillip Lim has matured, and its clientele has, too.
|
Maya Singer
|
December 3, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim is a designer who connects with consumers. That much is clear—he's got a booming business worldwide, and the latest sign of his commercial success is the new flagship store he's opening tomorrow night on Great Jones Street in New York City. Lim's niche, so far as it can be defined, is clothing that's dead on-trend and urbane yet punchy, as opposed to moody. Beyond that, though, it's been hard to locate a Phillip Lim signature—a design language that he uniquely owns. In recent seasons, Lim has seemed to be pushing to create such a signature by playing around with organic forms, giving a sculptural aspect to otherwise straightforwardly hip clothes. The approach has reaped him mixed rewards, but this season it worked. It probably helped that Lim was working from inspiration close to home: Indeed, his inspirationwashis home, which he's been renovating, as he explained after today's show.What with all the construction, Lim's home life has been confined to his bedroom, which got him focused on the elements of that most intimate space. Hence the focus here on textures that mimicked the quilting of mattress pads or patterns of matelassé, and garments inspired by loungewear such as robes, lingerie tap shorts, and negligees. The undulating hems and sinuous oversize piping, meanwhile, were a nod to the body, curled up in bed.All of this abstraction of the boudoir was nicely domesticated, as it were, into approachable cool-girl looks, the best of which were the seemingly simplest, like a sheet-white blouse with an off-center neckline, patterned to wink a good bit of skin on one side of the waist. Lim's robe-tied tops and tunics were likewise direct and appealing; ditto the slouchy semi-sheer trousers embroidered in a cane motif. Elsewhere, the designer's more ambitious woven organza cocktail dresses came off as likably unconventional, if just shy of mannered. In general, you sensed Lim slipping into a comfortable groove with this collection, his formal play becoming less labored and more natural. In a little while, people might even start to think of that as his "thing."
|
Maya Singer
|
September 8, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 40 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2015-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim, coming off a well-received Target collaboration, delivered a smart men's show today that hit many of the tropes that are suddenly so de rigueur, such as a gently jarring clash of sport and suit references. 3.1 Phillip Lim isn't usually the first to push into new terrain, but despite a well-honed aversion to the outlandish and impolitic, the label nonetheless floated a few excellent ideas.These included coat collars that were turned in on the neck, giving the oft-neglected jugular new interest; drawstring jumpsuits—one in a quiet pinstripe—that approached essential; and a lilac hooded parka with a matching two-button vest, both with black hardware. A repeated Prince of Wales and soft check pattern helped unite the elements, sundry though they were, and made up for a shimmery striped pajama top that came off as drowsy.Several years ago Lim restaged his women's collection atop Beijing's Forbidden City, culminating in a finale of astounding cheongsams that had been deconstructed and reconstructed with a Western edge. Here, he showed abbreviated kimonos apparently based on a men's cheongsam, or changshan, but they lacked pep and radiated a demure vibe that seemed at odds with the rest of the clothes. Still, this was a solid outing for Lim.
|
Lee Carter
|
June 25, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,015 |
resort
|
Designers have been plundering the looks of decades past for a while now; you can even predict when the next wave of sixties mod or fifties wasp waists will wash ashore. A seventies revival was due, and Phillip Lim is one of the designers bringing it about this season. The take at 3.1 Phillip Lim had an intriguing looseness—Lim didn't hew to any one particular reference. Instead, he drew on a mishmash of seventies-esque motifs, and gave them a twist and an update. There was something honest about that method, as though Lim had plucked at loose strands of memory. Take the wave-like hemlines here, magnified versions of thatBrady Bunch-tastic rickrack trim. Or consider the flourish of brown suede, the nods to shell suits, or the short A-line skirts and plunge-collar dresses redolent of Jane Fonda looks inKlute. There was also a strong influence from YSL's Safari collection, a reference Lim used in a particularly interesting (and sales-friendly) way. Sand-toned pieces such as a lean belted coat and wide-leg trousers were done in a technical material with a linen-like feel; these pieces conjured the seventies vibe nicely, but they had a very modern weight and structure. The same was true of Lim's jacquards, done in a digitized, magnified snake print. The best thing about this collection, though, was that Lim was working close to the body—the only exceptions, really, being the A-line shifts, the least successful pieces here. A trim pair of trousers with a touch of flare, a flat leather jacket in yellow, a little ruffle-hem minidress in that linen-like technical fabric—these looks, and others, found Lim moving on from his recent obsession with oversizing. How funny that sometimes in order to move forward, you have to look back.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 3, 2014
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 42 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The wordbossgets bandied around a lot these days, but defining what it means to dress as a modern woman in charge of her life is far more complex than the popular feminist memes would suggest.Phillip Lim, who has been at the head of his brand for a decade now, attempted to address that question at his show today. “Lady bosses running through the streets of Shinjuku in Tokyo” was one of the scenes in Lim’s mind’s eye for Fall 2016. Some of the Eastern references were instantly recognizable in the kimono-inspired outerwear, even if the Japanese ripstop coated jackets seemed to recall a more rugged military terrain. That masculine-feminine tension was captured quite nicely in a cheongsam-like army green tunic, which was layered over a slinky pleated gold tube skirt.Lim drew from the world of traditional men’s suiting for his nip-waisted blazers and zipper-front track pants, which were cut from Prince of Wales check, a Savile Row favorite. The sporty looks worked best with a softer hand, and one pair of tuxedo-striped velvet sweats had a slouchy, tactile appeal that still felt polished.Locating that sweet spot where comfort and style meet seemed to be Lim’s m.o. elsewhere too. Chunky flat sandals were paired with embellished chenille socks, giving the tech-nerd footwear cliché fancy new footing. It’s an idea that’s in step with the current thinking around trans-seasonal dressing, where summer and winter clothes are in constant conversation. All in all, there were lots of pieces here that could hold their own year-round in a working wardrobe.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 16, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Spending 20 minutes in a room alone with a designer talking about his collection instead of eight minutes watching it in a crowd before rushing for the door can be quite daunting. Because should it suck, hard, what to do? Obfuscate to his face, of course—call it “interesting” or boom “You’ve done it again!”—then make for the exit and work out your conscience via keyboard.Phillip Limwent showroom this season. No obfuscation called for: It was good. Although that Marlon Brando leather cap, Lim’s own, felt a misdirected addition to the lookbook shoot.“Would you wear this?” the designer asked, holding up a field coat fronted in houndstooth, lined with mesh, and backed with a crocheted illustration of a Ukiyo-e bathing beauty. The answer was “sure”—with the caveat that it’d more likely be the blue version with crocheted pockets. Lim was very concerned with giving his work a context. Sweetly, he’d imported his own Danish love seat reupholstered with tiger print from New York, plus a hamburger side table and a stuffed circular pillow coated in red vinyl that looked a little unwholesome—he reported that French customs were so into it they gave it a lengthy internal examination. There was even a goldfish, French, on Lim’s mise-en-scène coffee table (he gifted it to one of the models to help him launch a social media profile after the presentation).Looks do furnish a room, and those on display in this one included some great pieces. A shirting–biker jacket hybrid was a brilliant layering base. The shape of a conventional shirt says the wearer is just that; this performed the same function with a bit of easy-to-recognize edge. Those considered mishmash field jackets were lovable. Some plain-ish piped silk basketball shorts (and a matching souvenir jacket) that could be reversed into leopard-print fabulousness had a satisfyingly sensual binary appeal to them. The speckled-wool car coats and leopard jacquard topcoats were more firmly either one way or the other. Lim’s wool track pants, treated poplin pajama jumpsuit, nylon leopard robe-jackets, and green zipped flight suit were all studiously mustered variations on the multilayered, utility-based, decoratively promiscuous aesthetic that Lim, furniture and all, epitomizes.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 23, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
pre-fall
|
What’s onPhillip Lim’s TiVo? You could make a pretty good guess based on the collection he debuted today:Downton Abbey, perhaps, and most definitelyThe Muppet Show. Muppets most def because Lim copped to that one up front: At an appointment this morning, he took not a little delight in pointing out the Muppet-y texture of his bouclé coats, and the color palette cribbed from Gonzo and Big Bird and Kermit, and the graphic motif that was, it turned out, a play on Elmo’s laughing mouth. The Muppet thing wasn’t readily apparent in these clothes, until you went looking for it, but it was a nice element to know about—if only for fun’s sake. And, as Lim noted, shouldn’t clothes be fun?Downton, on the other hand, was only a guess, got at via this collection’s many winks at English country house culture. There were equestrian elements, like button details and jodhpur-like leggings, and riffs on upper-class casualwear such as field coats and khakis. Lim cleverly played the at-leisure aesthetics against ones that struck a dress-for-dinner note, making ample use of a silk foulard print, romantic ruffles and lace, and glitzy lamé. Sometimes the motifs were mixed within pieces, as in his terrific lace-trimmed slip dress paneled in ribbed knit, or his silver lamé trench coat, the collection’s indisputable must-have item. Many of the silhouettes here were an update from Spring, such as the backless ruffled bomber, and the paper-bag-waist pants; what felt fresh was Lim’s emphasis on easy-to-wear, trans-seasonal dresses. That emphasis marked a return to form for Lim, who was known for his dresses when he started out. Ten years on, his take on the dress has evolved—the best versions had an air of unraveled elegance one does tend to associate with the aristocracy. Lim fans with or without country piles will be pleased. Indeed, even Elmo would be tickled.
|
Maya Singer
|
December 4, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Let other New York City fashion designers toast the10th anniversaryof their brand by getting down and dirty.Phillip Limcelebrated a decade of3.1with plain old dirt. Mounds of the stuff were installed all around Lim’s catwalk this afternoon, in an arrangement designed by architect Maya Lin. As Lim revealed after the show, the dirt was in fact compost that he and his team had been making from their own food waste and storing up for months. “I was thinking,” he said, “about where things start. They start from a seed. They start from dirt.” The compost mounds on the runway, which would be de-installed post-show and delivered to local parks, thus symbolized both beginnings and rebirth.It was a fitting theme for this show, which found Lim reprising various signatures but arranging them in a way that felt new. This collection boasted a directness that some of Lim’s recent outings have lacked—his modus operandi here was, put simply, to take sporty and/or mannish looks and infuse them with a sense of romance. That strategy was apparent in the most instantly appealing of the looks he showed today, pinstriped pieces billowing with ruffles or collaged with floral prints. But it was evidenced, as well, in the likewise ruffled scuba tops, and the bomber jackets done in organza, satin, or silk.This show could have been a touch more concise. Lim had several strong ideas going here, like the fluid paper-bag waist trousers and the taut sweaters and dresses in burlap nylon that seemed to degrade into floral metallic jacquard, and he elevated the collection as a whole by focusing on its sense of hand, whether in the luxe green gazar used in a matching bandeau and high-slit skirt, or the delicate floral appliqué embellishing otherwise straightforward tops. But there was some clutter, too. The cargo pants and adapted biker jackets could have stayed in the showroom, for instance. Those pieces weren’t bad; they just diluted the poetry of the show as a whole. Lim has made it this far—there will be plenty of time to show biker jackets in the 10 years ahead.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 14, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Two lines of enormous white flags lined the runway. Surrender? That's not how it looked from this bench. Phillip Lim's project this season seemed to be to take garments whose history was wrapped up in the partisanship of masculine tribes, soften their edges until that original affiliation seemed meaningless, and leave us with a blanker canvas charged with potential.So, the Wall Streeter's suit jacket was rendered in archly cut cotton and paired with Bermudas, or as a silkily linen mix in a jumpsuit. Military uniform was shorn of its stripes and its breast pocket—although a stitched memory remained—and re-rendered. In white, these looks semaphoredAn Officer and a Gentleman: Stereotypes are not easily shaken off.Sometimes it was impossible to detect any agenda behind the looks apart from a desire for looseness and room to flex, as per a roomy yellow knit tee above obi-belted white pants in crushed linen, or a quilted opaque parka worn with a Bengal-striped granddad shirt and quilted, raw-hemmed shorts. The ornately paned, hand-sketched botanical print that flourished near the close was pleasing. In fact, this was all quite pleasing—if sometimes just a little anodyne in its softness and studied erosion.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 25, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,016 |
resort
|
A large part of the charm of the boho aesthetic is its magpie quality: a bit of this and a bit of that, put together in an ersatz way. Phillip Lim's latest collection paid tribute to boho, and it featured many of its familiar elements—eyelet, fringe, bell-shaped sleeves, macraméé. Incorporating some mess into his idiomatic look meant that Lim was working against the grain of his own methodical sensibility—much as he did last season, in a collection that emphasized looks that fell askew and seemed to be unraveling. The tactic worked for Fall, and it worked again here. The strongest looks in this collection fused a sense of rigor with something unexpected—the sharp trousers with their slashed-ankle flares, the plush knits trimmed in fringe, the satin and cotton cady tailored pieces with bits of thread dangling from the hem. A crisp cotton poplin sundress featured smocking at the bust that made the piece look as though someone had seized it, suddenly, to create gathers. The clothes seemed to be in motion—falling apart, opening up, shifting on the body. At times, the effect came off studied, but for the most part, it created an appealing sense of dynamism. And in the end, that dynamism served to upend a key stereotype of boho, which is that it's a look meant for girls who like dillydallying. These clothes had places to go and things to do.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 5, 2015
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Art and fashion have always been easy bedfellows, but lately the offbeat style of women who inhabit the world of galleries and museums has been influencing designers more than ever. Today the set at3.1 Phillip Lim—with red Perspex walls and a Pepto pink carpet on the runway—certainly looked like it could be part of a modern art installation. In fact, fans of James Turrell might have picked up on the reference to the artist’s luminous sun- and moon-inspired artworks which showed up on a purple T-shirt.The mostly black and white collection was splashed with vivid streaks of Yves Klein blue and more subtle shades of rose pink, a color which was particularly effective on the coat with rounded shoulders and a gently whittled waist that opened the show. Lim has always been adept at harnessing the game-changing power of accessories, and the brutalist-style graphic statement sculptural earrings and chain-link belts were a nice counterpoint to more delicate ruffled lace cocktail dresses and blouses; ditto the single-stripe patent leather and satin booties.Lim picked up the new romantic thread of his Pre-Fall collection for the silhouette here, though this time his flute skirts took on a more off-kilter shape, and hemlines that rose and fell in waves with each passing look were in line with the asymmetry that has been coming through all week. Backstage after the show, Lim emphasized the feminine strength of the collection both in the palette and the tailoring. For women who want to feel empowered, the high-waisted belted baggy trousers that were pegged at the ankle would be well worth bookmarking for next season, especially coming off a season of dresses. The skinny pant has had a tight grip on urban wardrobes for quite some time (with leggings likely outstripping the sale of jeans online, that stronghold has gotten tighter still) and shifting those proportions was an artful touch.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 13, 2017
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Like many designers this season, Phillip Lim is rethinking the way he conceives of his menswear. But don’t expect his 3.1 show at New York Fashion Week to go coed anytime soon. Instead he’s bringing a sense of intimacy to the process with the help of Paolo Roldan, who was enlisted to play model, muse, and stylist for Fall 2017. Beyond being the star of a Givenchy campaign, the Filipino-Canadian heartthrob is famous for his killer personal style and has a dizzying array of expertly composed selfies on Instagram to prove it. Granted, not every man has the insane good looks or rock-hard abs that Roldan possesses, but his approach to dressing has a swagger and coolness about it that is undeniably authentic and appealing. He manages to make even the collection’s most fashion-y pieces—leopard-print pajamas, tailored basketball shorts, plaid judo jackets—feel grounded in reality and not some parallel editorial universe.In any case, Lim is the kind of designer who likes to keep practicality within his line of sight, and that’s particularly true of his menswear. Part Paddington Bear coat and part puffer, the hybrid outwear in the lineup was as cozy as it was chic. Many of the embroidered “spirit animal” souvenir jackets were reversible, as were the aforementioned silk pajama pants—leopard spots on one side and white on the other for the not-so-wild at heart. It’s actually when Lim turns his hand to the most pedestrian aspects of a man’s wardrobe—flipping the pieces upside down and inside out, so to speak—that this playful fashion happens. In his hands, the velour tracksuit sheds all of its dad-bod associations (Tony Soprano on an exercise bike springs to mind) and gains modern verve, cut as tailored joggers with a bomber jacket–style zip-up top. And that’s something both well-dressed guys and tomboys who shun the idea of a Juicy Couture comeback can actually get on board with. Whether the world is ready for an Ugg revival for men remains to be seen, but Lim makes a solid case for the ugly-pretty shoe as worn by Roldan—with belted high-waisted pants, no less! His five-piece collaboration with the Australian brand is right in step with the current trend for good-taste-bad-taste partnerships.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
January 19, 2017
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
pre-fall
|
After referencing Victorian bathing suits for Spring,Phillip Limis researching other areas of a turn-of-the-century wardrobe. Structured crop tops and thigh-skimming shorts made way for a radically new covered-up silhouette, one that circled around the parameters of ankle-skimming maxi dresses vaguely reminiscent ofThe Age of Innocencepetticoats. That ladylike propriety was spiked with plenty of cool downtown attitude, though; Lim cited club kids of the legendary ’70s and ’80s London nightspot the Blitz as a jumping-off point, and the high-neck Victoriana shirts that were paired with knitted bondage pants had a New Romantic sway about them, especially grounded with pointy kitten-heeled pixie booties.Ultimately, those subtle nods to the past made for an eclectic and modern mix. Take the deftly layered statement pieces of the collection apart—sporty frilly sweaters, paper bag–waist track pants, buffalo plaid frock coats—and there were many stealth staples here for the style-conscious magpie to covet. The peasant blouses that were finished with handfuls of tiny micro pearls were certainly fashion-forward and practical all at once—an appealing update to classic shirting in a working wardrobe. Equally compelling were paint splash–print parachute dresses and peasant skirts: languid, free-form, and right in line with the artistic sensibilities that have been bubbling under in fashion lately, too.Lim is sailing into new waters with his denim business for Pre-Fall, and his latest offering expands upon the traditional idea of designer jeans. Drawing on the trend for corsetry that’s been seen on the street style circuit and the runways in Europe, he reformatted classic jean jackets, skirts, and trousers with waist-cinching lacing; even tricky-to-pull-off white denim culottes gained a flattering, nipped-in line. At a time when leggings are outselling denim on the shop floor, there’s more reason than ever to think outside the box in this way. With his latest collection, Lim proved he’s not resting on his laurels—or his skinny jeans for that matter.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
December 5, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The runway at3.1 Phillip Limtoday was covered in sand and strewn with petals, setting the scene for what could have been a deserted beach at dusk. Lim has been looking toward his Los Angeles roots for inspiration recently, and the latest collection was awash with an easy, SoCal mood. Lim circled back to an age of innocence long before his time for inspiration, citing Victorian bathing suits as a starting point. The thigh-grazing body suits and short-shorts read more early ’90s than turn-of-the-century, though, and along with slinky knit dresses and slouchy drawstring pants, they had a sexy urban surfer feeling. We have California babes such asKendall JennerandGigi Hadidto thank for legitimizing bikinis for the city, a swimwear-meets-lingerie trend known as “swimtimates” that has been percolating on the runway at New York Fashion Week this season. Lim’s take on the risqué look came with a twist of romance, and the bralettes that were layered under sleeveless coats and blazers were printed with pretty micro flowers, just the kind of thing you could imagine Jenner or Hadid working into their post-beach, pre-bunch street style uniform.Ultimately it was the more modest floral pieces in the collection that were the strongest, particularly the dresses that were cut with cool scuba suit trimmings, like heavy metal hardware. With a Victorian neckline and sheer long sleeves, they were a welcome proposition for women who might have outgrown the idea of midriff-baring; ditto the floral jacket-cum-dress and jumpsuit with billowing off-the-shoulder sleeves. Those pieces made the idea of bringing laid-back, beach vibes into a working wardrobe that much more tangible.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
September 12, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
menswear
|
spring
|
I don’t wanna lie. It’s a bit wtf reviewing a collection when it’s lumpenly on the rail and there’s no designer around to deliver his/her creative spiel. So props toPhillip Limand his top team for making that hollow experience a pleasure in Paris today. Following last season’s closely curated mise-en-scène, Lim was sadly absent today, but his collection spoke strongly despite that. Fuchsia camo shirting, more truly tip-top reversible joggers and boxing shorts, spiffing wide-brimmed hats, seductive suede shorts and joggers were a few highlights. The “nightime floral” was an effective motif running through this collection. There is little point trying to extrapolate in the absence of the author, but what we had here was a rack of clothes that were cut for progressive, creative, and modern men of taste and verve. Meaning be damned—just charge it to credit and deliver it posthaste.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 24, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,017 |
resort
|
With an aesthetic so deeply entrenched in the city, it’s funny to think thatPhillip Limspent the better part of his childhood hanging out at the beach. The New York–based designer returned to his West Coast roots for his latest collection, filling his mood board with the weird and wonderful characters of Venice Beach, California. Bohemia isn’t exactly a place you’d expect to find fans of the brand—then again, Lim isn’t peddling tie-dyed shirts and flip-flops for Resort 2017 either.Borrowing from the language of surf and skate culture, where the idea of cool-looking clothes comes before performancewear, Lim re-created many of the best-loved things in a SoCal wardrobe. The rash guard is in there, though not as you know it—finished with a tweedlike basket weave and silk ruffles at the collar, the piece reads more cocktail-hour-in-Soho than anything else. The classic Hawaiian shirt gets a nice upgrade, too, with a subtle black-and-white pattern that barely registers as tropical, even if the color combo—turquoise and persimmon orange—falls into familiar territory.There are flower child references that go beyond the beach here, as well, including a blossoming psychedelic motif that appears on one of the label’s signature double-breasted suits and also on a standout micro-pleated slip dress. Lim isn’t the first to take boudoir dressing out into the open, though he does treat the trend with a more practical hand than most—many of his slips come with modesty-preserving metallic insets at the décolletage, flattering sheer chiffon sleeves, and chunky zippered straps. It’s a look he’s calling “industrial boudoir,” and it’s one that we’re guessing will have solid universal appeal.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
June 6, 2016
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,018 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The spirit of the global nomad has been percolating on the runway lately, and it has a special place in Phillip Lim’s heart. “I remember my mother making clothes from scraps of fabric,” said the designer backstage at his show today. “I think that idea of turning discarded materials into something beautiful really speaks to the immigrant experience.” A sense of wanderlust defined the mood of the 3.1 Phillip Lim show this afternoon, and the collection kicked off with a series of cozy color-blocked skinny knits in pleasing pastel shades. Lim has no trouble walking the line between a masculine and feminine aesthetic, and he grounded that slinky silhouette with a tough rubber-soled boot. To counter that were whimsical body chains and mismatched earrings that looked like they’d been strung with polished versions of shells one might gather on the beach.Lim has a soft spot for suiting, too, and this season his tailoring had a rumpled charm that came through most strongly in a crinkly lilac blazer and matching baggy pants. He injected a dose of air into the long, lean line of the opening looks, with a passage of romantic peasant dresses and tunics that were layered up with cozy turtleneck sweaters and floor-sweeping coats. Lim has always had a knack for mixing prints, though the patchwork of floral and paisley patterns felt a little too reminiscent of other labels in places. There was a more distinctive bent to the bag designs, and the new, boxy cross-body purses and fanny packs were a nice addition to the brand’s growing roster of bestselling styles; they came in a variety of compelling finishes, including pony hair. Pieces like these are bound to travel well with cool urbanites, wherever they may roam.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 12, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,018 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Phillip Lim has been feeling for the great outdoors lately. Since buying a house on the North Fork of Long Island, New York, a little over a year ago, the designer has been bringing his country living ways to work. “It really started with these shoes,” said Lim, pointing down to his rubberized clogs, an unusual hybrid of Birkenstocks and Crocs he’s christened “The Ben” after his 1985 Mercedes station wagon. The designer is no stranger to the ugly shoe trend (he’s collaborated with Ugg in the past) and the sturdy soles made for a compelling new foundation to his latest 3.1 menswear collection. Other eye-catching standouts in Lim’s showroom included reversible puffer coats finished with crisp shirting material and a cozy fleece jacket collaged with harvest-inspired photo prints—think, still life images of leeks and cauliflowers—just the kind of outdoorsy pieces that style-conscious guys would want to rock in the city.Hipster irony has become something of an obsession in fashion lately, with young designers riffing on the logo phenomenon and Instagram accounts dedicated to documenting fake goods. Lim had a fresher take on irreverent motifs, with several tees and turtlenecks that were covered with a quirky allover print of his receipts from the farmer’s market. He also gave the classic dad jean a nice makeover; his version is only slightly high-waisted and cut from raw indigo denim instead of faded blue. As always, the best looks in the lineup appeared as if they been swiped straight off the designer’s back, with shirts and pants expertly layered up in twos in a way that appeared effortless. Lim made his oversize stylings virtually foolproof this season, building special effects—double collars and waistbands—into many of the pieces. As the current trend for health goth gear begins to wane in the city, these clothes will offer a cozy and soulful antidote to athleisure.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
January 9, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,018 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
There was no big concept or elaborate set at 3.1 Phillip Lim today. Instead it seemed as if the designer was wiping his slate clean, going back to basics. The show opened with a look that seemed primed for a no-nonsense, New York summer wardrobe: a white tank with a gently asymmetric line, slouchy pinstripe pants, and barely there sandals that were devoid of any bells and whistles save for a shiny pebble-like toe clasp. Classic white shirting figured into the collection as well, with several iterations of the pristine button-down—sometimes long and lean like a tunic, other times romantic and voluminous with ruffles across the body and rolling along the sleeve.Lim was reluctant to nail his inspiration to any one tree this season, though he did cite flamenco dancers and ’90s minimalism as touchstones backstage after the show. Those seemingly disparate references came together in a series of crisp cotton ruffled dresses, skirts, and crop tops toward the end of the show. Lim hit his sweet spot, however, when he reworked the toughest pieces in his sartorial repertoire, including workwear-inspired denim jackets, sleeveless trenchcoats, and one particularly fetching pair of cargo pants cut from satin and denim.The designer rarely misses a beat where accessories are concerned, and the aqua sock-style sandals he showed were a chic and comfy take on the current craze for sock booties. With its bowling silhouette and cross-body strap, the new 3.1 handbag had a cool, understated vibe that was a refreshing departure from the highly impractical mini purses and flashy logo It bags that have dominated the runways for the past few seasons. That less-is-more approach is likely to carry weight on the shop floor come the spring.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
September 11, 2017
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,018 |
menswear
|
spring
|
There’s a subtle flair to Phillip Lim’s personal style that goes beyond the standard white-tee-and-jeans uniform of most designers. In fact, his eclectic jewelry, pleated trousers, and ’40s-style short-sleeved shirts have more in common with an artist in his studio than a fashion designer in his atelier. Cy Twombly, Pablo Picasso, and Jackson Pollack all had a working wardrobe that was almost as distinctive as their art, and they served as muses for the new 3.1 Phillip Lim menswear collection. You could see their influence in the paint-splattered workwear and swirling intarsia knits straight off the bat. Many of the more eye-catching abstract art–covered jackets came with a reversible canvas-color flip side, a clever two-for-one feature that is sure to attract practically minded male shoppers. For creative types who need a little executive realness in their lives, the easy, hand-painted pinstripe suits were a win-win for the boardroom, without any of the stuffiness.Ultimately, Lim is at his best when he’s marching to the beat of his own drum with menswear, so it was a smart move to style the lookbook himself this season. The banana-leg sweatpants and layered sweatshirts in optic white and Yves Klein blue were a softer, more soulful approach to the moody, hype-beast streetwear that’s been percolating lately. Lim’s collarless denim tunics had far more personality than the ubiquitous hoodies and graphic tees on the street style circuit right now. Overall it made for an appealing portrait of the artist as himself.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
June 21, 2017
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
It’s almost impossible to escape the cult of Marie Kondo these days, even if you’re a lifelong collector of fashion like Phillip Lim. In the last few months, the designer has been steadily decluttering his home, and that process of letting go has had a knock-on effect on the way he makes clothes. “This season I wasn’t thinking about a theme,” said Lim before the show. “I really wanted to create a wardrobe instead and find sturdiness and reliability in a moment when the world too often feels chaotic.”Lim set the tone for the new season with his opening look: a no-nonsense black trench that recalled the brand’s city-centric roots. He stripped the palette clean, rarely deviating from slate gray, optic white, and black. The only print to speak of was a graphic zebra motif that was primed for the concrete jungle on high-waisted pencil skirts and oversize carryalls that several models carried tucked under one arm. The designer talked of his coats in terms of armor, and the standout outerwear pieces were designed to hold their own in the eye of the storm—the cozy Patagonia fleece–style jackets and vests were a good example. And if the shoes were anything to go by—elegant flat, elasticated Chelsea boots and sensible low-heeled slingbacks—then Lim’s new woman is keeping her feet planted on solid ground in more ways than one.In addition to his new Kondo habit, Lim has been reading the works of Patagonia’s pioneering cofounder and environmentalist Yvon Chouinard. After a conversation that started with the Humane Society over dinner last year, he’s made the decision to go fur-free this season and is also renouncing exotic skins. With that in mind, his long woolen coats with curly astrakhan-style fuzz were a chic, cruelty-free proposition that are bound to spark joy in a cool working wardrobe.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 11, 2019
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Uniform dressing is predictable by definition, though Phillip Lim is hoping to challenge that with his latest collection. It’s a thought he started pondering with women’s for Pre-Fall that he’s now exploring further with men’s for Fall. “People think of uniforms as monotonous, but they’re also so clever,” said Lim, who was dressed in a version of his everyday utilitarian uniform—black pegged trousers and a collarless puffer jacket—at his studio in Soho yesterday. “They present a system of dressing that’s really infinite in possibilities.”The concept of a modular wardrobe lends itself to Lim, who has always been a bit of a fashion nerd about layering. Much of the techy microfiber outerwear here comes with that mind-set stitched into the seams. The detachable collars, sleeves, and vests certainly make light work of the manifold styling opportunities, at a time when men are leaning into fashion-forward workwear with gusto. With that in mind, Lim’s new lilac boilersuit zips the idea up into one easy, cool piece. Overall, the proportions—airy, oversize—fit the current mold of men’s fashion that’s been loosening up on both sides of the Atlantic.Lim launched his first capsule collection for Fila last month, a collaboration that put his sporty impulses front and center. The residual effects of this project are pretty clear: Lim is honing the look of athleisure within his own design lexicon, gently twisting windbreakers, fanny packs, and plimsolls with unexpected prints and trompe l’oeil stitching. In the same way that leggings have taken the place of skinny jeans in a woman’s wardrobe, track pants have usurped denim in a man’s. Lim’s tailored, side-zippered pairs have tons of multipurpose appeal.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
January 15, 2019
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
pre-fall
|
Pragmatism is hardly a sexy concept. As far as unglamorous fashionspeak goes, it’s right up there with utilitarianism. Still, there’s no denying that down-to-earth values occupy far more real estate in our lives these days, and that’s familiar territory for Phillip Lim. This season the designer doubled down on practicality, dispensing with the lofty thematic impulses that have guided his runway shows in the past. That’s not to say he’s abandoning whimsy altogether, though there was certainly less of the freewheeling wanderlust he’s been feeling lately.Lim has always had a knack for cool suiting, arguably ground zero for an urban working wardrobe, and this time around he fashioned the classic two-piece ensemble to look like a one-piece jumper. Picture a check blazer tucked into a pair of high-waisted peg-leg pants—an unusual styling proposition that made surprisingly good sense. Lim also has a natural affinity for layering and managed to work the suggestions of sweetness and intimacy into the collection with the right amount of subtlety. Case in point: Delicate lace-trimmed dresses were worn over baggy pleated pants and under techy all-weather trenchcoats and vests. Take those looks apart and you’ll find that even the pretty little things were grounded in functionality, cut at forgiving angles away from the body like an apron and not remotely clingy. Lim created a Jean Cocteau–inspired print for the collection, perhaps the most romantic aspect of his offering. Those painterly brushstrokes added an unexpected sense of dreaminess to the designer’s twisted 1940s-style dresses and hooded knit ponchos that was safely in the realm of the real.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
December 3, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim has been in a nomadic mood lately. The subtle references to Jamaican beach culture of his Resort collection made way for a vaguely Moroccan vibe this Spring. His show was staged far from the madding crowd, on the rooftop of a high school in the Lower East Side. Sadly, there was no escaping the miserable weather that has blighted New York Fashion Week the past few days, but the models, dressed in charming bucket hats and comfy rubber-soled sandals, were hardly bothered. No matter how strong the wanderlust, clearly, Lim isn’t completely straying from his practical, city-dwelling instincts. His bohemian references were filtered through a minimalist lens, hence the fringed white Crombie coat that was all business up top and eternal summer on the bottom. This trend toward earthy glamour has been bubbling up on the runways in Europe for the past few seasons, and it’s evidently starting to gather speed on this side of the pond.Lim has a knack for layering, though this season he proposed a more skin-baring aesthetic. Skimpy 1960s-inspired bralettes were his answer to the ubiquitous crop top, but it’s tough to imagine how those pieces would work in real life. (That said, Sofia Richie, who sat front row at the show today, would probably have little trouble adding them to her model-off-duty wardrobe.) However, there were several tangible options for grown-ups feeling for a chic staycation. The metallic knit tunics and bead-trimmed swishy pants had a nice sway—call it hippie for the city. Lim never fails to throw a good pair of pants into the mix, and his wraparound khaki pants held their own in the lineup of maxi skirts and minidresses. The graphic, ’60s-inspired orange and yellow prints that came through toward the end of the show were a mood-brightening antidote to a case of the Mondays, too.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
September 12, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
menswear
|
spring
|
“Take Time Off,” read a grosgrain ribbon trim in Phillip Lim’s new men’s collection. It ran across belts and bag straps and functioned as a zipper pull for Lim’s new Hawaiian-print bum bag. In a time when fashion is burning the candle at both ends, Lim’s proposition was so earnestly simple, it might even inspire you to laugh. Who actually takes time off? Well, Lim for one. One of his recent posts to Instagram explained to his 45,000 followers the importance of making time for oneself to regenerate and find new inspirations. (Lim himself will embark on a three-week holiday this summer.) “I wanted to literally use fashion (clothes) to illustrate the seduction of giving time to yourself,” he wrote.Mission accomplished. With muted Hawaiian florals, crinkled shirting, and a washed, beachy palette, Lim’s collection was well suited for off-duty time. The overalls’ shapes were roomy and forgiving; should you indulge in a few too many mai tais or poke bowls, you won’t have to worry in ’40s-styled pleated trousers with a paper-bag waist or an ’80s-esque short-sleeved button-up that Lim described as a sort of cover-up for men. Rounding out the vacation vibes was a wide range of tie-dye shirts and shorts, as well as soft fanny pack bags made of fabric that had shirt sleeves as a strap that can be tied cross-body or around the waist like a fancy cummerbund.Look close enough, and you’ll find plenty of options for those have not yet embraced the type of self-care sabbaticals Lim described on Instagram. For the deskbound, a gorgeous Cognac leather coat would serve, as would those paperboy pants, which come in an anonymous shade of black. Tie them up with that “Take Time Off” belt for a subtle message to the boss.
|
Steff Yotka
|
June 16, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,019 |
resort
|
“The accidental tourist” was how Phillip Lim described his muse for Resort. Curious, really, when you consider that the hustle and bustle of the city is what essentially drives his 3.1 brand—not faraway getaways. Still, it does feel as if Lim has gotten a taste for life outside the Big Apple lately, what with his new house on the North Folk of Long Island. It’s why rubber-soled boots came striding through his last men’s collection earlier this year. Styled with floppy hats, knee-high socks, and sturdy moccasins, there was a distinctly earthy groove to the new collection that felt right. Though it’s tough to unpack all the references, the 1970s vibe rung loud and clear, particularly in the silhouette: flared pantsuits, high-waisted shorts, and slim-cut leather shirting. Not to mention the reggae beat in the vibrant colors and prints. In fact, the deep red, marigold, and hunter green stripes running throughout seemed straight out ofRockers, the cult ’70s movie about the Jamaican scene.With that in mind, you won’t be surprised to hear that there is a raffia and leather tote bag called Marley included in Lim’s latest accessories offering. A soulful, nomadic traveler has been on the horizon in fashion the past few seasons, and clearly Lim is tuned into that wanderlust. The sun-bleached tie-dyed denim trousers and jacket fit that freewheeling mood, too, and were standout pieces here. (Note to DIY fashion enthusiasts: Now is the time to brush up on your skills. The tie-dye motif has been popping up all season.) Lim is an expert at layering, and some of the exuberance of his new clothes was in the delightful mix of patterns and proportions. Take it all apart, though, and minimalist urbanites will find treasures to call their own, including charming Pierrot-style blouses, a nice alternative to the classic button-down shirt.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
June 6, 2018
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 64 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,020 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Like many designers in New York, Phillip Lim has been rethinking his place in the fashion system, letting go of old practices that no longer serve him to clear space for new, more considered ways of working. It’s a process that was set in motion some seasons ago when Lim began reexamining his production line. Now 50% of the collection is made using sustainable fabrics.With that in mind, Lim took the decision to switch from the traditional runway show to a more intimate open-house format yesterday afternoon. “I remember dressing windows at my first space on Mercer and what it was like to meet people who were just discovering the label,” said Lim, who put the call out on social media about the event at his store on Great Jones Street. “I wanted to get back to my retail roots and see if the connectivity is still there.”Shot in and around downtown New York, the look book itself celebrated familiar 3.1 territory. Lim knows his way around a city-dwelling wardrobe, and this season he fine-tuned the essentials. Dubbed the “maxi zoot suit,” his take on trendy, oversized tailoring came with some flattering trimmings, including a waist-cinching bungee cord and ruched tails. Lim’s treatment of the classic tracksuit was just as fresh, cut from trapunto and patchwork cotton and finished with graphic stripes that had a graffiti-style feel. The classic puffer was cleverly reinvented with feminine proportions, fashioned from light pillowy layers instead of the explosive Michelin Man rolls that have become the norm. Though the focus here was clearly on daywear, there were some lovely after-hours pieces, including a glittering silver Lurex suit, that will resonate with cool urbanites in this city—and beyond.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
February 11, 2020
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 65 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,020 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It has been years since Phillip Lim staged a coed show, and he marked the occasion by choosing a new venue for Spring 2020: an open-air warehouse in Greenpoint. Despite the agonizing traffic to and from the Brooklyn neighborhood—this reviewer barely made it in time from the Lower East Side—the vibe mirrored that of his Spring collection: urban yet somehow tranquil. Backstage, Lim was talking about his brand’s values—community, diversity, optimism—and his efforts to pare things back and create items with a clear purpose.His experiments with tailoring were Spring’s highlights. You won’t find a conventional two-piece suit here; there are enough of those to go around, for starters, and Lim saw an opportunity to create something different for his clients. His most intriguing proposition was a sleeveless, elongated vest with a detachable piece draped around the shoulders, sort of like a scarf; styled with matching trousers or a flow-y midi skirt, the combination was boundary pushing without being too outré for a typical New York office. (Lim knows precisely who his customers are: working women across a variety of fields.) The same was true of an asymmetrical blazer with sleek cutouts and a detachable hood, as well as a jacket shown with a leather bandana—a clever accessory wearers will be happy to play around with.Earlier this summer, Lim debuted aResort collectionthat was 40 percent sustainable thanks to new organic and recycled fabrics. He continued those efforts here, pointing out the compact organic cotton of a chocolate brown jumpsuit and the coated cupro of a navy midi dress. It had a liquid-y gleam from afar, like heavyweight satin, and in photos it reads almost as leather, but cupro is made from upcycled cotton waste. Materials aside, designing with intention is a smaller yet crucial part of the sustainability conversation. By nixing the unnecessary bells and whistles, Lim hopes to create pieces with serious longevity. Any designer can source better fabrics, but few can resist the urge to complicate their clothes. Going forward, it would be great to see Lim become a louder voice in the sustainability conversation; as he enters his 15th year in business, it will be an important part of maintaining his momentum and staying competitive with the very woke new guard.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 10, 2019
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,020 |
menswear
|
spring
|
It has been years since Phillip Lim staged a coed show, and he marked the occasion by choosing a new venue for Spring 2020: an open-air warehouse in Greenpoint. Despite the agonizing traffic to and from the Brooklyn neighborhood—this reviewer barely made it in time from the Lower East Side—the vibe mirrored that of his Spring collection: urban yet somehow tranquil. Backstage, Lim was talking about his brand’s values—community, diversity, optimism—and his efforts to pare things back and create items with a clear purpose.His experiments with tailoring were Spring’s highlights. You won’t find a conventional two-piece suit here; there are enough of those to go around, for starters, and Lim saw an opportunity to create something different for his clients. His most intriguing proposition was a sleeveless, elongated vest with a detachable piece draped around the shoulders, sort of like a scarf; styled with matching trousers or a flow-y midi skirt, the combination was boundary pushing without being too outré for a typical New York office. (Lim knows precisely who his customers are: working women across a variety of fields.) The same was true of an asymmetrical blazer with sleek cutouts and a detachable hood, as well as a jacket shown with a leather bandana—a clever accessory wearers will be happy to play around with.Earlier this summer, Lim debuted aResort collectionthat was 40 percent sustainable thanks to new organic and recycled fabrics. He continued those efforts here, pointing out the compact organic cotton of a chocolate brown jumpsuit and the coated cupro of a navy midi dress. It had a liquid-y gleam from afar, like heavyweight satin, and in photos it reads almost as leather, but cupro is made from upcycled cotton waste. Materials aside, designing with intention is a smaller yet crucial part of the sustainability conversation. By nixing the unnecessary bells and whistles, Lim hopes to create pieces with serious longevity. Any designer can source better fabrics, but few can resist the urge to complicate their clothes. Going forward, it would be great to see Lim become a louder voice in the sustainability conversation; as he enters his 15th year in business, it will be an important part of maintaining his momentum and staying competitive with the very woke new guard.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 10, 2019
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,020 |
resort
|
On the surface, Phillip Lim’s new 3.1 collection seems to continue an aesthetic he’s been honing for the past few seasons: pared-back, unfussy, and built to satisfy the most essential needs of a working wardrobe. And yet there are significant changes afoot at the brand. “I think we’ve all been asking ourselves how we can reduce our impact on the planet,” Lim said, at his studio in Soho. “Coming to a zero carbon footprint isn’t going to happen overnight, but we can find a sustainable balance.”To wit, the latest collection suggested a markedly more considered approach to making clothes. Since the brand went fur-free, last year, Lim has been experimenting with sustainable fabrics and has worked with what is known as a “closed loop,” eco-conscious factory in Guatemala where denim is made from upcycled fibers and any leftover waste is used as fertilizer at local coffee plantations. Cut with a cool asymmetric, calf-grazing silhouette, the resulting denim skirt suit was a polished take on a 3.1 favorite (Lim has a knack for making fashion-forward Texan tuxedos). Unconventional shirting has long been part of the designer’s repertoire, and for Resort there were several fresh options made from upcycled striped men’s button-downs. The handsome window-pane checks in the lineup had ecologically sound origins, too, spun from recycled polyester and water bottles at a Spanish factory that adheres to bluesign-certified practices, which in layman’s terms means that no harmful chemicals were used in the production. To add to that, there were trench coats made from sustainable cotton and polished shoulder bags and backpacks fashioned from chrome-free leather (chrome is one of the most toxic ingredients in the tanning process), which the designer has been developing for the past two years.All in all, Lim’s efforts reflect about 40 percent of the collection—no small feat. As the fashion industry begins to reckon with the catastrophic implications of climate change, it’s encouraging to see positive changes like these on the New York scene.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
June 3, 2019
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,021 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Phillip Lim has been using his platform to raise awareness about the alarming increase in anti-Asian hate crimes in the U.S. since the COVID crisis began. In between Zoom presentations of his new fall collection yesterday, he recorded and posted a personal story-cum-PSA to his Instagram account. “I sit here feeling somewhat helpless, invisible, and semi-defeated because our Asian stories are not being reported in mainstream media…. It feels as if we do not really matter or even exist,” he said, and asked his “fellow Americans, fellow human beings…will you stand with me to stop Asian hate?” Lim cited a shocking statistic about the 1,900% rise in those hate crimes and showed pictures of his immigrant childhood, including one of his mother in their first house in the States with her sewing machine, “the machine that fed us all.”Lim said he’s managing through the pandemic by “staying nimble and smart” and “not treating anything in a monolithic way.” Fashion-wise, that translated to a well-rounded collection touching on the comfort and utility conversations we’ve been having since the lockdowns began and the tailoring we might return to as we transition back to commuting and office-life, while leaving room for playful pieces, too.He’s always been a dab hand at tailoring, able to synthesize trends and make silhouettes that are lasting. This season, he gave suits in structured twill a streamlined ’70s vibe, while a coat and pleated pants in menswear check wool had roomier proportions. Sportier outerwear in a tech-y faille was made special with embroideries of little rolls of the fabric. Lim’s knit dresses came in a fitted rib and a polo neck style with a flaring hem. He accessorized a lot of the looks with a chunky dickie, an unlikely old-fashioned garment that has been given new life in Zoom-time. He also had fun with the negative space sweaters and leggings that enlivened the sparer pieces, including a dolman sleeve jacket and split seam A-line skirt in a super-plush wide-wale corduroy that could convince a girl to say “see ya” to her lockdown track suit for good.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 17, 2021
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2021/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,021 |
pre-fall
|
A month into the lockdowns last spring Phillip Lim came up with the concept for a new capsule collection of comfortable essentials. They’re leisurely, but they’re not exercise clothes, and they have the added benefit of being antibacterial. Each drop is named for a mantra: The first was Live Free, the second is Be Present, and the third will be With Gratitude. Reflecting on the line’s genesis Lim described it as an effort to “merge my personal life journey with what I do professionally.”Like many designers pre-pandemic, Lim had been experiencing the pressures of ever-quickening production schedules and the churn of trends, exacerbated by fast fashion brands and the rise of Instagram-born, direct-to-consumer brands. The simplicity of Live Free, which he began selling online in November, is a rejoinder to what he frankly calls “all that bullshit.”Turning his eye back to his main collection, he wanted to hold on to the purpose and function of Live Free, but imbue it with more emotion. “What would make people feel hopeful?” he asked. Officially, the season is pre-fall, but internally Lim and his team call it MJJ for May, June, and July, and it was designed with those sweltering New York City months in mind. Slip dresses in sherbet-y shades of technical taffeta with floaty hems capture the carefree, joyful feeling of that time of year best. Even if young people are still waiting for the vaccine, that’s likely to be the attitude they’ll want to strike.Lim was equally up-front when he said this will be a year of rebuilding. He’s approaching it strategically, shrinking the collection and stripping it of any fluff, without losing the whimsy that he sees as integral to the 3.1 DNA. It’s a balancing act, but the veteran Lim is better equipped than most to succeed. His mantra: “It’s about owning my own brand.”
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Nicole Phelps
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January 7, 2021
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Phillip Lim
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,022 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
How do you sell a woman a suit after two years of working from home? Offices are slowly reopening, and many of us are thinking about refreshing our 9-to-6 wardrobes. Still, the matching sets we’ve been wearing on our couches have been of the sweatsuit variety, not Italian wool. Phillip Lim has been thinking about the in-betweenness of our current moment. “We have to address the present, and use our creativity to offer solutions,” he said at a preview in his Great Jones Street store.His solution for fall was to design modularly. Pulling a cropped cadet jacket in gray wool off the rack, he showed three different pairs of pants it worked with: an oversize Dickies-style, a carrot shaped cut, and culottes. Even better, he said, if the carrot shaped pants are black wool, or the culottes are black vegan leather. “I loosened up the suit, that feels realistic to the situation,” he continued. But he didn’t skimp on the finishings: you get designer-grade details at contemporary brand-prices at 3.1 Phillip Lim. For proof, see the collection’s two-tone proper English Mac. He’s emphasizing versatility too: the mockneck sweater with geometric cut-outs that he showed with the suit can be worn front-to-back for a more office-ready look.Lim left room for fun: you could wear those broken suits with faux snakeskin stack-heeled mules or gold studded moccasin loafers, or you could go full Dorothy over-the-rainbow in crystallized platform mary-janes. Why not?
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 14, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,022 |
pre-fall
|
The theme of 2022 so far? At an in-store appointment Phillip Lim said that it’s ambiguity, and the challenges and benefits of getting comfortable with it. As we enter the third year of the pandemic with the Omicron variant throwing another runway show season into question, the path forward isn’t clear. But rather than fight uncertainty (and the loss, grief, and confusion that stem from it), Lim is opting to embrace it. Discussing his new pre-fall collection he used words like “convertible, makeshift, and spontaneous.”Picking up where his spring left off, Lim showed shirts and smock dresses with buttons spiraling the waist and hips, so customers can wear them fitted or loose, and a man’s tailored vest was designed with a built-in bra to show off or not, user’s choice. On other looks, he focused on unlikely layers of the sort Gen Z has gotten behind: a spongy knit camisole or a thick cable-knit halter might accompany a fine gauge ribbed knit sweater, and the season’s must-have accessory is a pair of split seam leggings with hems that kick out over sandals or pumps, weather depending. A slip of a one-shoulder minidress made from deadstock crepe was a sexy one-and-done riposte to the mix-and-match separates. It was also a useful reminder of the virtues of ambiguity.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 12, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 72 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,022 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim has been making the Fashion Week rounds. Yesterday he was at Peter Do and Prabal Gurung, and Monse and Jason Wu are still on the docket later today and tomorrow. Chalk it up to the collective spirit that emerges from crises—health, retail, and otherwise—after 18 months of pandemic the kind of peer-to-peer support Lim has been demonstrating seems to be trending. The challenges of the lockdowns have precipitated another important change at 3.1. His new collection for spring has more second-generation fabrications than he’s ever used before, fabrics like the wool and recycled polyester blend of an off-the-shoulder rethink of the pantsuit. “Just because we have to be more responsible, it doesn’t have to be boring,” he said at an in-store appointment.He set about keeping the clothes lively in a variety of ways. The windowpane check that he used for a range of separates had a naive, painterly quality, while bright acid-y colors were lifted from the flowers he grows at home on the North Fork. Garden blooms were a leitmotif, but there was nothing as conventional as a floral pattern. Instead, he let the voluptuousness of petals inform the rounded shape of sleeves on a lawn green cotton dress or the curves on a khaki trench’s storm flap. Knitwear is an important category for Lim, as it is for so many labels now. His knits are easy wearing, but they too come with unexpected details. Camisole styles can be worn front to back or back to front, ribbed sweaters have peekaboo cut-outs, and the hems of sweaters unbutton for a relaxed but body-conscious silhouette. Without the constraints of a show to worry about, Lim was able to spend his time and energy this season finessing those kinds of thoughtful details. They’re what will separate his clothes from others in the contemporary field.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2021
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,022 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim presented his resort in his Great Jones Street store. It was the first time he showed his clothes in person since February of last year; after 16 months of Zooms, it was a move evocative of the collection’s mood. “Hope, manifesting from a moment of darkness,” he riffed, “resilient femininity.”Lim made smart moves during the pandemic. He added a capsule collection of comfortable essentials—think plenty of elasticated waists—and in his main collection, he put an emphasis on functionality; his fall outing, which is in the stores now, is a mix of easy-wearing, yet polished knits and tailoring in bold proportions and hardy fabrics.Here, he went a little softer. A suit jacket, for instance, was cut with a built-in bralette to show off the midriff. But he didn’t let go of the utility factor entirely. When unbuttoned, the bralette folds neatly away at the sides, revealing a more traditional shawl-collared jacket. A zip-front scuba dress was designed with similar ingenuity; its shrug-like knit sleeves also unbutton and can be worn wrapped around the neck. There was a lot of draping and layering, and drawstrings were a recurrent detail; used on technical poplin, they lent his silhouettes generous, round volumes.Meanwhile, duchesse silk separates implanted with three-dimensional rosettes and crystal embellishments were a reinterpretation of a key dress from Lim’s first-ever runway show for spring 2007. As strategic as he is—and he had to be to survive the pandemic—he knows the role of sentiment. It’s a starting-over season. The parallelism of the two looks read to this writer, who was there 15 years ago, like a salute to experience and, yes, like a gesture of optimism and hope.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 15, 2021
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 74 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Phillip Lim has kept a low profile at New York Fashion Week since the pandemic. When you saw him, it was in the front row at his friends’ shows; he’s revealed his own collections via one-on-one appointments in his Great Jones Street store. This season he’s breaking the pattern. Tonight, he’s gathering folks at a pop-up gallery on the Lower East Side for an exhibition of the work of the Japanese photographer Jiro Konami, who takes impressionistic pictures of New York City. Lim gave Konami five pieces from his fall collection and told him to hit the streets. He’ll see the results for the first time when he shows up at his party this evening, but the idea was to channel the impromptu synchronicity that the city is famous for.That’s what he got up to in this collection, as well. A pair of dresses patched from clashing florals and trimmed with Chinatown shopping bag checks are illustrative: The separate parts seem unlikely to mesh, but together they’re surprisingly pleasing. He said he’s been looking at the bookChinatown Pretty, which celebrates the street style of senior citizens across six North American Chinatowns. There’s also an Instagram account, and a scroll-through reveals poh pohs (grandmas) in all manner of offhand, everyday splendor.Among the other mashups here are hoodies made from washed denim, a schoolgirl pinafore with a leather bodice, and puffers with peacoat collars. Lim’s knack for cool outerwear comes across in an oversize washed denim chore jacket and a shrunken leather biker jacket—bikers are trending in these early days of fashion month. There are schoolboy blazers in the mix, too, and he’s developed a 3.1 Phillip Lim crest for the front pockets, the embroidery of which reads: “The City that Never Sleeps.” Lim isn’t likely to get much shut-eye tonight. But gallery hoppers still might spot him over the weekend. The exhibition, at 199 Chrystie Street, is open to the public.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 10, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 75 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Phillip Lim has kept a low profile at New York Fashion Week since the pandemic. When you saw him, it was in the front row at his friends’ shows; he’s revealed his own collections via one-on-one appointments in his Great Jones Street store. This season he’s breaking the pattern. Tonight, he’s gathering folks at a pop-up gallery on the Lower East Side for an exhibition of the work of the Japanese photographer Jiro Konami, who takes impressionistic pictures of New York City. Lim gave Konami five pieces from his fall collection and told him to hit the streets. He’ll see the results for the first time when he shows up at his party this evening, but the idea was to channel the impromptu synchronicity that the city is famous for.That’s what he got up to in this collection, as well. A pair of dresses patched from clashing florals and trimmed with Chinatown shopping bag checks are illustrative: The separate parts seem unlikely to mesh, but together they’re surprisingly pleasing. He said he’s been looking at the bookChinatown Pretty, which celebrates the street style of senior citizens across six North American Chinatowns. There’s also an Instagram account, and a scroll-through reveals poh pohs (grandmas) in all manner of offhand, everyday splendor.Among the other mashups here are hoodies made from washed denim, a schoolgirl pinafore with a leather bodice, and puffers with peacoat collars. Lim’s knack for cool outerwear comes across in an oversize washed denim chore jacket and a shrunken leather biker jacket—bikers are trending in these early days of fashion month. There are schoolboy blazers in the mix, too, and he’s developed a 3.1 Phillip Lim crest for the front pockets, the embroidery of which reads: “The City that Never Sleeps.” Lim isn’t likely to get much shut-eye tonight. But gallery hoppers still might spot him over the weekend. The exhibition, at 199 Chrystie Street, is open to the public.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 10, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
pre-fall
|
At the CFDA Awards last month Phillip Lim was on stage with his fellow Slaysians, picking up the organization’s first-ever Positive Social Influence Award. Lim and his friends had been moved by the anti-Asian violence they’d witnessed in New York to create a superhero troupe-slash-support network that fights it by raising visibility about the issue. Lim has also helped launch a GoFundMe to support the AAPI Community Fund that has raised over $7 million to date—no small achievement.At a pre-fall appointment, Lim was talking up his adopted hometown. “This is us putting our pole in the concrete,” he said, “reclaiming who we are as a New York brand and leaning into that.” The collaged t-shirts on which Lady Liberty mingles with NYC logos get the message across loud and clear. Other references are subtler, speaking to how certain New York women dress, with a casual polish that depends on versatility, utility, and accessories.On the versatility front, an MA-1 bomber in shiny navy satin reverses to patchwork denim. And because statement outerwear is essential, even in the hottest months of the year, he cut terrific army jackets with elevating cording details on the pockets. Boots, too, might seem unseasonal to an outsider, but anyone who walks the streets of lower Manhattan knows they’re year-round essentials in these parts. Zippers that extend to the toe-caps and rounded, cushiony soles gave them a distinctive, while still practical spin. A macramé tank dress isn’t an essential, but it proved a useful layering trick here, worn over everything from super-sized pants to a ’90s-ish t-shirt dress. From the grungy ’90s of fuzzy sweaters to the poufed Victorian sleeves of smocked dresses, the mixed bag of references felt true to the spirit of New York.In other news, Lim says he’s crossing his fingers that he’ll be back on the runway by September.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 7, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
pre-fall
|
At the CFDA Awards last month Phillip Lim was on stage with his fellow Slaysians, picking up the organization’s first-ever Positive Social Influence Award. Lim and his friends had been moved by the anti-Asian violence they’d witnessed in New York to create a superhero troupe-slash-support network that fights it by raising visibility about the issue. Lim has also helped launch a GoFundMe to support the AAPI Community Fund that has raised over $7 million to date—no small achievement.At a pre-fall appointment, Lim was talking up his adopted hometown. “This is us putting our pole in the concrete,” he said, “reclaiming who we are as a New York brand and leaning into that.” The collaged t-shirts on which Lady Liberty mingles with NYC logos get the message across loud and clear. Other references are subtler, speaking to how certain New York women dress, with a casual polish that depends on versatility, utility, and accessories.On the versatility front, an MA-1 bomber in shiny navy satin reverses to patchwork denim. And because statement outerwear is essential, even in the hottest months of the year, he cut terrific army jackets with elevating cording details on the pockets. Boots, too, might seem unseasonal to an outsider, but anyone who walks the streets of lower Manhattan knows they’re year-round essentials in these parts. Zippers that extend to the toe-caps and rounded, cushiony soles gave them a distinctive, while still practical spin. A macramé tank dress isn’t an essential, but it proved a useful layering trick here, worn over everything from super-sized pants to a ’90s-ish t-shirt dress. From the grungy ’90s of fuzzy sweaters to the poufed Victorian sleeves of smocked dresses, the mixed bag of references felt true to the spirit of New York.In other news, Lim says he’s crossing his fingers that he’ll be back on the runway by September.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 7, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 78 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
While showing off a pair of highly wantable white denim pants with a high paper-bag-ish waist and full legs at his Great Jones Street store this morning, Phillip Lim said, “No one needs us to make another pair of jeans; this is denim out of context.”Out of contextis a sort of shorthand for this collection and for Lim’s design philosophy in general. He makes clothes for real life (hence why he left the runway behind three years ago), but there’s usually an element of surprise that elevates his clothes above the everyday. He used the same white denim (and acid-washed shades of pineapple and periwinkle) for lace-edged slip dresses. “At the end of the day it’s a textile; we can design whatever,” he added. French-terry sweatsuit fabric was treated in the same irreverent way for a shoulder-baring top and another with a cutout on the side.Suiting followed the body or came in boyish, oversized proportions, while he used pleated recycled polyester for two dress silhouettes, one with a subtle hourglass shape and the other with a more generous flared volume. He likes to give his clients options, but this offering was smaller than in previous seasons. That’s strategic. “Make less, mean more,” he said, also pointing out the tote bags he had constructed with leftover strips of different colors of leather and weaving from remnant ribbons.Lim had other news today beyond this spring 2023 collection. Those who follow his personal Instagram account learned that he’s been involved behind the scenes on the upcoming Disney+ showAmerican Born Chinese, a genre-bending story based on a graphic novel of the same name that will explore outsider adolescence; he costumed one of its superhero characters. “Genre bending,” he said, “that’s our thing.”
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 12, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
[
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] |
[
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] | 1 | 79 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
While showing off a pair of highly wantable white denim pants with a high paper-bag-ish waist and full legs at his Great Jones Street store this morning, Phillip Lim said, “No one needs us to make another pair of jeans; this is denim out of context.”Out of contextis a sort of shorthand for this collection and for Lim’s design philosophy in general. He makes clothes for real life (hence why he left the runway behind three years ago), but there’s usually an element of surprise that elevates his clothes above the everyday. He used the same white denim (and acid-washed shades of pineapple and periwinkle) for lace-edged slip dresses. “At the end of the day it’s a textile; we can design whatever,” he added. French-terry sweatsuit fabric was treated in the same irreverent way for a shoulder-baring top and another with a cutout on the side.Suiting followed the body or came in boyish, oversized proportions, while he used pleated recycled polyester for two dress silhouettes, one with a subtle hourglass shape and the other with a more generous flared volume. He likes to give his clients options, but this offering was smaller than in previous seasons. That’s strategic. “Make less, mean more,” he said, also pointing out the tote bags he had constructed with leftover strips of different colors of leather and weaving from remnant ribbons.Lim had other news today beyond this spring 2023 collection. Those who follow his personal Instagram account learned that he’s been involved behind the scenes on the upcoming Disney+ showAmerican Born Chinese, a genre-bending story based on a graphic novel of the same name that will explore outsider adolescence; he costumed one of its superhero characters. “Genre bending,” he said, “that’s our thing.”
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 12, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
[
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] | 1 | 80 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,023 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim has been busy diversifying since the pandemic, not least of all as a comic book superhero inHouse of Slaywith his fellow designing ‘Slaysians’ Prabal Gurung and Laura Kim of Oscar de la Renta. Recently, he signed on as the consulting producer for the Freeform network showAsian Baby Girl, which is set where he grew up in Orange County, California. The show focuses on the Vietnamese community in his old neighborhood of Westminster and his consulting producer role is to act as “vibe check.” The new gig got him thinking about how his friends and neighbors used to dress.There are “around the way girl” oversize trucker shirts and eco-chinos embellished with crystals in the new lineup, rave pants in Japanese canvas and recycled ripstop, boxy sweatshirts, and “Asian golf dad” bomber jackets. A very wantable acid wash denim skirt looks like culottes because that’s how kids used to wear their Dickies, extra large and folded over in front. “It’s the 3.1 woman, but more off-duty than it has been,” Lim said.Lim came on the scene in the mid-aughts, when American designers were looking to the Paris and Milan runways for role models, and the path to traditional success in New York was often via pretty cocktail dresses. Fashion, like pop culture more broadly, has widened its frame of reference in the 15 years since then, and Lim is taking an active role in that reframing. He has good timing. On TikTok, which might just spell the end for the top-down way the fashion industry formerly operated, Dickies have gone viral.“Never in a trillion years did I think I’d be filming five minutes from my mom’s house, at Phuoc Loc Tho, the Asian Garden Mall,” Lim said, explaining he was headed west this week to shoot the pilot. “This is literally about ‘designing locally,’ these clothes are about where I came from. It’snot whose life is this?It feels more real.” Lim is clearly hyped by the process of exploring his roots, and that comes through in these easy-wearing pieces.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 21, 2022
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
“How do you make the clothes a bit smarter?” As a designer of contemporary fashion that’s aspirational but not unattainable (as opposed to high luxury brands whose current prices give pause to even the most diehard of shoppers), Phillip Lim has made it a policy to build ingenuity into his clothes. His striped ribbed knit midi dress, for example, is entirely reversible, increasing its versatility and lowering its cost-per-wear.Lim was back on the runway last season, but instead of a fashion show today, he organized an immersive presentation that will be open to the public all weekend long featuring his new designs and the work of other AAPI creators. There’s a photo and video installation by his frequent collaborator Jiro Konami, and free-for-the-taking posters of poems by young Asian writers on the themes of live, work, play, and love. “We wanted to make a collection that really encompasses and hopefully resonates with our women in every setting,” he said, making a connection between the poems and his own output.Lim’s idea was to erase distinctions between work clothes and play clothes. This already more or less happens on the street: You see women tossing a statement coat over their workout leggings, pairing ankle boots with tracksuits, or wearing a denim skirt reconstructed from vintage jeans. Lim has a good feel for the dressed-up-yet-casual attitude of downtown New York. A sweat suit that combined French terry and cotton twill and a sergeant’s jacket and cargo pants combo that could stand in for a traditional tailored suit at the office were a couple of the clever ways he channeled those vibes here.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 9, 2024
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
ready-to-wear
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fall
|
“How do you make the clothes a bit smarter?” As a designer of contemporary fashion that’s aspirational but not unattainable (as opposed to high luxury brands whose current prices give pause to even the most diehard of shoppers), Phillip Lim has made it a policy to build ingenuity into his clothes. His striped ribbed knit midi dress, for example, is entirely reversible, increasing its versatility and lowering its cost-per-wear.Lim was back on the runway last season, but instead of a fashion show today, he organized an immersive presentation that will be open to the public all weekend long featuring his new designs and the work of other AAPI creators. There’s a photo and video installation by his frequent collaborator Jiro Konami, and free-for-the-taking posters of poems by young Asian writers on the themes of live, work, play, and love. “We wanted to make a collection that really encompasses and hopefully resonates with our women in every setting,” he said, making a connection between the poems and his own output.Lim’s idea was to erase distinctions between work clothes and play clothes. This already more or less happens on the street: You see women tossing a statement coat over their workout leggings, pairing ankle boots with tracksuits, or wearing a denim skirt reconstructed from vintage jeans. Lim has a good feel for the dressed-up-yet-casual attitude of downtown New York. A sweat suit that combined French terry and cotton twill and a sergeant’s jacket and cargo pants combo that could stand in for a traditional tailored suit at the office were a couple of the clever ways he channeled those vibes here.
|
Nicole Phelps
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February 9, 2024
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Phillip Lim
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
pre-fall
|
Phillip Lim was back on the runway in September for the first time in four years, with a collection that blended polish and utility in a way that seems particularly of New York. Denim in anything-but-your-average shapes, boxy men’s button-downs and slips, leggings with fold-over waistbands topped by midriff-baring shirts—running a business out of Great Jones Street, Lim has a good sense for the special-but-not-precious kind of clothes that work here. We’re not running around in stilettos, even if TV shows would have non-New Yorkers believe it.Pre-fall picks up where that show left off. It’s a collection of urban fundamentals: essentials, but not basic. One of his suits, in a nubby linen-wool blend, comes with shorts, not trousers; another, in a technical stretch viscose, features a short sleeved, safari-backed jacket. There are two jean jackets in the lookbook; one is collarless, the other is spliced with a sharp-cut blazer. And the dresses that look like two-piece sweater and slip sets are in fact easy-on one-and-dones.“Pre-fall, for me, it’s like back-to-school,” he said at a preview in his store. Looking for wardrobe updates, his customers might be attracted to a car coat with curved seaming that gives it a generous shape; it registers high on the utility scale. A midi-dress in a patchwork of floral prints reads more whimsical, but it’s hardly an on-a-whim kind of thing; it would come in especially handy on the hottest days of the summer. The shoe of the season is an asymmetric toe ballerina with a little block heel, fun but also functional.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 15, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 84 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
pre-fall
|
Phillip Lim was back on the runway in September for the first time in four years, with a collection that blended polish and utility in a way that seems particularly of New York. Denim in anything-but-your-average shapes, boxy men’s button-downs and slips, leggings with fold-over waistbands topped by midriff-baring shirts—running a business out of Great Jones Street, Lim has a good sense for the special-but-not-precious kind of clothes that work here. We’re not running around in stilettos, even if TV shows would have non-New Yorkers believe it.Pre-fall picks up where that show left off. It’s a collection of urban fundamentals: essentials, but not basic. One of his suits, in a nubby linen-wool blend, comes with shorts, not trousers; another, in a technical stretch viscose, features a short sleeved, safari-backed jacket. There are two jean jackets in the lookbook; one is collarless, the other is spliced with a sharp-cut blazer. And the dresses that look like two-piece sweater and slip sets are in fact easy-on one-and-dones.“Pre-fall, for me, it’s like back-to-school,” he said at a preview in his store. Looking for wardrobe updates, his customers might be attracted to a car coat with curved seaming that gives it a generous shape; it registers high on the utility scale. A midi-dress in a patchwork of floral prints reads more whimsical, but it’s hardly an on-a-whim kind of thing; it would come in especially handy on the hottest days of the summer. The shoe of the season is an asymmetric toe ballerina with a little block heel, fun but also functional.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 15, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 85 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim was holding back tears before his show. It’s been four years since he put his collection on a New York runway, and his return had him feeling emotional. The pandemic was especially hard on independent brands like 3.1, but Lim persevered. He came to be one of American fashion’s most outspoken voices about the rising tide of anti-Asian violence during COVID. Fashionwise, he pivoted for a time to the kind of homewear we were all sporting during the lockdown, scaled back his ready-to-wear collections, and thought hard about what makes his brand unique. He grew up in California, but it’s 3.1’s New York bona fides that he opted to emphasize over the past couple of seasons. Awkwafina and Sherry Cola were in the front row wearing 3.1 sweatshirts that splice the brand logo with NYC landmarks.Today’s show was a chance to double down on 3.1’s New York–iness and Lim’s Asian American identity while reacquainting the fashion crowd with what he’s good at: American sportswear with a twist. It came in the form of smart, extra-wide-leg khakis and denim jackets cut in unconventional ways; in breezy scarf dresses whose graphic patterns were inspired by NYC architectural details; and in pajama sets studded playfully with crystals. It was also there in Lim’s nod to the omnipresence of workout gear on the streets; his leggings are cropped below the knee, with a deep folded-over waistline that elevates them above the gym.The surprise was in the abundance of full-length dresses. As a contemporary designer, eveningwear is a category that Lim has never really emphasized, but the options that came down the runway demonstrated that he has an interesting point of view on the subject. Whether in black gauze ruched through the bodice or a lush floral print that faded out north of the hem, there was nothing stuffy or uptight about his special-occasion dresses. That goes for the whole collection. Watching some of this week’s shows, it’s been hard to see the connection between what’s coming down the runway and real life, which can leave you feeling cold. Lim doesn’t have that problem. It’s good to have him back.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 10, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim was holding back tears before his show. It’s been four years since he put his collection on a New York runway, and his return had him feeling emotional. The pandemic was especially hard on independent brands like 3.1, but Lim persevered. He came to be one of American fashion’s most outspoken voices about the rising tide of anti-Asian violence during COVID. Fashionwise, he pivoted for a time to the kind of homewear we were all sporting during the lockdown, scaled back his ready-to-wear collections, and thought hard about what makes his brand unique. He grew up in California, but it’s 3.1’s New York bona fides that he opted to emphasize over the past couple of seasons. Awkwafina and Sherry Cola were in the front row wearing 3.1 sweatshirts that splice the brand logo with NYC landmarks.Today’s show was a chance to double down on 3.1’s New York–iness and Lim’s Asian American identity while reacquainting the fashion crowd with what he’s good at: American sportswear with a twist. It came in the form of smart, extra-wide-leg khakis and denim jackets cut in unconventional ways; in breezy scarf dresses whose graphic patterns were inspired by NYC architectural details; and in pajama sets studded playfully with crystals. It was also there in Lim’s nod to the omnipresence of workout gear on the streets; his leggings are cropped below the knee, with a deep folded-over waistline that elevates them above the gym.The surprise was in the abundance of full-length dresses. As a contemporary designer, eveningwear is a category that Lim has never really emphasized, but the options that came down the runway demonstrated that he has an interesting point of view on the subject. Whether in black gauze ruched through the bodice or a lush floral print that faded out north of the hem, there was nothing stuffy or uptight about his special-occasion dresses. That goes for the whole collection. Watching some of this week’s shows, it’s been hard to see the connection between what’s coming down the runway and real life, which can leave you feeling cold. Lim doesn’t have that problem. It’s good to have him back.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 10, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 87 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim has plans to return to the runway in September. Though he’s gotten used to low-key fashion weeks in the four years that he’s been showing informally, he’s itching to be part of the action again. In preparation, he called this resort collection a “palate cleanser,” but one that’s based on a concept that’s foundational to the 3.1 brand—uniforms.Not school uniforms or sport uniforms, but art gallerist uniforms. Real-life clothes with high-fashion vibes are Lim’s specialty. Shopping his Great Jones Street store is satisfying because his pieces have the look of now, but without the extra zero on the price tags that you find at higher-end brands.He actually dresses art gallerists, and he’s picked up on a few things: the way they might modify a thrifted jean jacket a couple of sizes too large, how they layer a midi skirt over a pair of trousers that pool at the ankle, their preference for a vintage T-shirt. All of those ideas played out here. His oversize jean jacket is cinched at the back, creating a voluminous blouson shape, and he added a band of lace to a tee declaring “There is only one New York.” For exhibition openings, maybe, there’s a new take on his go-to pouf-sleeved, midi-length dress—a silhouette his fit model has declared the PMA, for “pretty, modern, and appropriate—and, yes, he styled it with long flared pants.But more so than uniforms, New York was Lim’s subject, as it has been for the last few seasons. One sweet example of his affection for the place was a series of pieces in washed black silk appliqued here and there with photo cut-outs of the waxy anthurium flowers sold all over the city at bodegas.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 88 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,024 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim has plans to return to the runway in September. Though he’s gotten used to low-key fashion weeks in the four years that he’s been showing informally, he’s itching to be part of the action again. In preparation, he called this resort collection a “palate cleanser,” but one that’s based on a concept that’s foundational to the 3.1 brand—uniforms.Not school uniforms or sport uniforms, but art gallerist uniforms. Real-life clothes with high-fashion vibes are Lim’s specialty. Shopping his Great Jones Street store is satisfying because his pieces have the look of now, but without the extra zero on the price tags that you find at higher-end brands.He actually dresses art gallerists, and he’s picked up on a few things: the way they might modify a thrifted jean jacket a couple of sizes too large, how they layer a midi skirt over a pair of trousers that pool at the ankle, their preference for a vintage T-shirt. All of those ideas played out here. His oversize jean jacket is cinched at the back, creating a voluminous blouson shape, and he added a band of lace to a tee declaring “There is only one New York.” For exhibition openings, maybe, there’s a new take on his go-to pouf-sleeved, midi-length dress—a silhouette his fit model has declared the PMA, for “pretty, modern, and appropriate—and, yes, he styled it with long flared pants.But more so than uniforms, New York was Lim’s subject, as it has been for the last few seasons. One sweet example of his affection for the place was a series of pieces in washed black silk appliqued here and there with photo cut-outs of the waxy anthurium flowers sold all over the city at bodegas.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2023
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] |
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] | 1 | 89 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,025 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim’s show was a celebration of his 20 years in business. Looking around the room, just a small fraction of us were there for his start. Fashion is a notoriously challenging industry based on change. Most of Lim’s contemporaries from his mid-2000s beginnings have quietly slipped off of Vogue Runway’s review grid, victims of financial difficulties, too few ideas, or some other random problem. How does it feel to be one of the survivors? Backstage Lim used one word: joyful.The secret to Lim’s success is his eye for changing trends and his ability to incorporate them into his own brand vocabulary—his adaptability, you could say. So it was somewhat surprising to learn, on being told that he had used the color of the moment, that he was unfamiliar with the phenomenon of brat green. “It’s a color I wore in California when I was young,” he said by way of explanation. In any case, it appeared on a cool pair of loose-fitting jeans with zips down the sides that could get a girl out of her true blues.His vocabulary is strong. I recognized the rosettes from a spring 2007 collection, his first-ever runway show way back when. Other callbacks included lace tops with football jersey proportions, the crystal fringe numbers, and all the hybrids, like denim spliced with sweats and patched with camouflage, and “mantra” T-shirts that morphed into slip dresses. But Lim also tried new things, like taking up the length of skirts for a couple of micro wrap skirts and an acid-washed denim mini.Pressed for feelings about the milestone, Lim offered up words that felt rather like something he could print on one of those tees: “It feels like I can only guarantee the moment.” Fashion, he said, “comes and goes; lengths, colors change. But joy is a human quality we can all tap into, we can all share. And right now, at this time in particular, joy is so necessary.” That was the wisdom of experience talking, then he put it into action when he invited his studio team out with him to take a 20th anniversary bow.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 8, 2024
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 90 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,025 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim’s show was a celebration of his 20 years in business. Looking around the room, just a small fraction of us were there for his start. Fashion is a notoriously challenging industry based on change. Most of Lim’s contemporaries from his mid-2000s beginnings have quietly slipped off of Vogue Runway’s review grid, victims of financial difficulties, too few ideas, or some other random problem. How does it feel to be one of the survivors? Backstage Lim used one word: joyful.The secret to Lim’s success is his eye for changing trends and his ability to incorporate them into his own brand vocabulary—his adaptability, you could say. So it was somewhat surprising to learn, on being told that he had used the color of the moment, that he was unfamiliar with the phenomenon of brat green. “It’s a color I wore in California when I was young,” he said by way of explanation. In any case, it appeared on a cool pair of loose-fitting jeans with zips down the sides that could get a girl out of her true blues.His vocabulary is strong. I recognized the rosettes from a spring 2007 collection, his first-ever runway show way back when. Other callbacks included lace tops with football jersey proportions, the crystal fringe numbers, and all the hybrids, like denim spliced with sweats and patched with camouflage, and “mantra” T-shirts that morphed into slip dresses. But Lim also tried new things, like taking up the length of skirts for a couple of micro wrap skirts and an acid-washed denim mini.Pressed for feelings about the milestone, Lim offered up words that felt rather like something he could print on one of those tees: “It feels like I can only guarantee the moment.” Fashion, he said, “comes and goes; lengths, colors change. But joy is a human quality we can all tap into, we can all share. And right now, at this time in particular, joy is so necessary.” That was the wisdom of experience talking, then he put it into action when he invited his studio team out with him to take a 20th anniversary bow.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 8, 2024
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 1 | 91 |
||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,025 |
resort
|
Inevitably, the crisis in retailing has been a subject of this resort season. How could it not be? Many designers are owed money, and if they aren’t they know someone who is. But if designers are uneasy, the thoughtful collections they’re producing don’t show it. I keep hearing versions of what Phillip Lim said during a visit to his Great Jones Street store: “We’re digging into who we are and doing that.”Lim’s New York brand is turning 20, which makes him a sort of high elder of the high contemporary market, where trend-driven brands seem to come and go with increasing rapidity. Trend cycles now are stupidly fast, as anyone who pays glancing attention to TikTok can tell you, but social media and clothing production operate on different time frames; one can’t keep up with the other. At our appointment, Lim exuded an appealing sense of calm; he’s unbothered by the chase.With two decades under his belt, he has plenty to dig into. Lim was an early pioneer of the two-in-one dress (an all-in-oner that looks like a sweater over a skirt), and he brought it back here. It’s no longer a novelty, but this season’s update has the same polished but easy feeling that many women are after. Working from the other angle, he gave acid-wash denim an elevated look, cutting it into high-waisted cargos or splicing it with either lightweight tweed or sweatshirting fabric to create clever hybrids. He called the short-sleeved “boy” shirt tucked into belted and pleated trousers a suit alternative; it would make for a perfect office uniform. “I look at the clothes and ask myself, ‘how is it additive to her life?’ he explained.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 12, 2024
|
Phillip Lim
|
[
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] | 0 | 92 |
|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,025 |
resort
|
Inevitably, the crisis in retailing has been a subject of this resort season. How could it not be? Many designers are owed money, and if they aren’t they know someone who is. But if designers are uneasy, the thoughtful collections they’re producing don’t show it. I keep hearing versions of what Phillip Lim said during a visit to his Great Jones Street store: “We’re digging into who we are and doing that.”Lim’s New York brand is turning 20, which makes him a sort of high elder of the high contemporary market, where trend-driven brands seem to come and go with increasing rapidity. Trend cycles now are stupidly fast, as anyone who pays glancing attention to TikTok can tell you, but social media and clothing production operate on different time frames; one can’t keep up with the other. At our appointment, Lim exuded an appealing sense of calm; he’s unbothered by the chase.With two decades under his belt, he has plenty to dig into. Lim was an early pioneer of the two-in-one dress (an all-in-oner that looks like a sweater over a skirt), and he brought it back here. It’s no longer a novelty, but this season’s update has the same polished but easy feeling that many women are after. Working from the other angle, he gave acid-wash denim an elevated look, cutting it into high-waisted cargos or splicing it with either lightweight tweed or sweatshirting fabric to create clever hybrids. He called the short-sleeved “boy” shirt tucked into belted and pleated trousers a suit alternative; it would make for a perfect office uniform. “I look at the clothes and ask myself, ‘how is it additive to her life?’ he explained.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 12, 2024
|
Phillip Lim
|
[
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|||
A F Vandevorst
|
fall-2002-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,002 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A.F. Vandevorst invited a thousand guests to a derelict cellar and jammed them together body-to-body on hard wooden benches. Then, after nearly an hour, they turned on strobes so violent people were screaming for mercy. Having successfully driven the audience to the brink of epileptic convulsion, the designers began their show. Ah, Paris! So edgy, it hurts.Miraculously, even the application of this Belgian-style torture wasn't enough to ruin what turned out to be a good collection, once the lights were turned on. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, a pleasant couple from Antwerp, have a distinctive way of juxtaposing formal clothes with athletic pieces and graphic knitwear. Sometimes they put things on back to front, like the excellently cut men's formal tailcoats, or silk dresses. Their yellow and black stripy and zigzag sweater dresses, tights and enormous scarves looked strong interspersed with nylon bombers and ski gilets. The eveningwear has a cool, all-black drama created by layering on sequins and fringe and finishing the look with leggings and slick over-the-knee boots.After the show, An Vandevorst said she and her husband were inspired by honey bees. But, please, it's going too far to sting a supportive audience with all that pain.
|
Sarah Mower
|
March 6, 2002
|
An Vandevorst
|
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||
A F Vandevorst
|
spring-2003-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2003-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,003 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
In the deconstructive ’90s,glamourwas a dirty word. But now there is a real thrill to be had in watching a rising generation reclaim the term as their own. Few are doing it better than the Belgian husband-and-wife team An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, who sent out a stellar collection that took ’50s-flavored dressiness into exciting new territory.A series of raincoats, in a range of colors from silver-and-white brocade to vivid red, shown with great cropped narrow pants and strappy silver heels, signaled A.F. Vandevorst’s intent to make grown-up clothes cool again. That goal only became more appealing as the couple displayed a sequence of knee-length dresses, some with sunburst-pleat skirts, others flowing toga-style over one shoulder. The elegance was in the deceptive simplicity; setting aside theoretical tendencies, they cut to the chase with something as easy as a silver Lurex tank worn over a white T-shirt dress and cinched with a chrome dragon belt.After superb combinations of white with ecru chiffon in sheer blouses and aprons, the pair came up with a pink silk floral fabric—something between a ’50s evening brocade and an Indian sari—which they wrapped into bustiers and cut as a perfectly beautiful dress with twisted straps and a small flounce rippling to the hem. Now it's official: glamour is the new edge.
|
Sarah Mower
|
October 2, 2002
|
An Vandevorst
|
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||
A F Vandevorst
|
fall-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2004-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,004 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
First, the bad news. While there was much to admire in A.F. Vandevorst's Fall show, there were a few reasons why it didn't fly quite as well as it could have. It's never a good idea to present your collection way out of the center of Paris at night—a very cold night, at that—and then keep your audience shivering on the sidelines for more than an hour in subzero temperatures. Serving Champagne—chilled,naturellement—might score brownie points with some, but at this stage in the evening hot cocoa would probably have been a bigger hit. Just why it was so cold became apparent when the show finally started. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, the duo behind the label, had opened up the vast auditorium in order to allow the models to enter from outside, deposited by a fleet of Lexus limousines that drew up at the entrance.Once the girls started to stalk the square runway in a complicated formation sequence, things began to heat up: An and Filip put their own sharp twist on the pretty, polished femininity that's a recurring theme this season, with a smart tie-belted cardigan jacket in a magnified houndstooth tweed; a lacquered black lace circle skirt; and a decidedly chic cream bouclé tweed coat. The good news also included the now-trademark looks with which they opened and closed the proceedings—a belted trench with voluminous caped sleeves.Intermixed with these standouts, however, were endless military-influenced jackets and shirts strewn with braiding, or pinned with medals. It may have been a comment on war and the military, but it led the collection directly into no-man's-land—and a chilly one, at that.
|
Mark Holgate
|
March 9, 2004
|
An Vandevorst
|
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] | 0 | 106 |
||
A F Vandevorst
|
spring-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2004-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,004 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
“We used paper to research new shapes,” said An Vandevorst backstage after the Spring 2004 presentation. “But we liked the effect so much we decided to use it in the show,” added her husband and design partner Filip Arickx. And use it they did, opening with a simple brown paper mac followed by a series of increasingly complex concoctions in the same “fabric”: a jacket whose sleeves were hoisted up with leather straps, a skirt with layers of jigsaw-puzzle pleats. The experiment was then echoed in more-accessible white cotton.Super-luxurious materials may not be A.F. Vandevorst’s thing, but clever construction certainly is—and that needn’t mean stiff and complicated. Witness a pristine white cotton shirtdress, or a pair of super-skinny, zippered pants in the palest suede, or a simple chocolate canvas trench. A chiffon dress printed with plumes was, quite literally, as light as a feather; a pea-green jersey dress was sliced down the back to reveal a flash of bare spine. Even their print, in the form of an arty, abstract paisley looked—heaven forbid!—almost chic.
|
Rebecca Lowthorpe
|
October 6, 2003
|
An Vandevorst
|
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||
A F Vandevorst
|
fall-2005-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,005 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
When Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst played to their strengths—delicate lingerie, smart tailoring, soft fabrics contrasted with stiff ones—their fall collection was great. They got off to a fine start with a camel group: a wrap coat, a full skirt, a backless fur gilet, and cozy cable sweaters that looked just right on the ice (the show was presented on a skating rink).Where the A.F. Vandevorst designers stumbled was in the middle. It’s hard to picture their customer, a romantic tomboy of Belgian extraction, going for garish patterns or having much need for to-the-floor frocks. So a series of seventies-era tapestry prints was something of a misstep, especially one long halter dress suspended by a strand of faux pearls. The look worked somewhat better later in the presentation in black, but it didn't have the swing of a jet silk cocktail dress with lace at the neckline and hem, or a gray wrap skirt fastened with an oversize safety pin and worn with a simple black crew neck.Many of the pieces were accessorized with furry boots and Mickey Mouse ears. The former looked spunky, but the latter seemed little more than a silly distraction.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 27, 2005
|
An Vandevorst
|
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||
A F Vandevorst
|
spring-2005-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-ready-to-wear/a-f-vandevorst
| 2,005 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Antwerp must have a pretty great nightlife, if the rock-club-inspired spring collection from Belgian duo An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, collectively known as A.F. Vandevorst, is any representation. They play great music (Nancy Sinatra and Lee Hazlewood's trippy duet "Some Velvet Morning" made the soundtrack); they have modest but effective light shows (here, a curtain of multicolored bulbs); and the crowd is always hip-looking.It's not the first time that clubbing has worked its influence on the world of A.F. Vandevorst; the duo once memorably turned their runway into a vast mirror ball. This year, the inspiration was at its most obvious in the touches of silver or gold that sparkled amid their mostly monochromatic palette, and their disco-ready glittery boots and strappy wedge sandals. But Vandevorst and Arickx used it in a far subtler way, by drawing on the grunge/rave club cultures of the nineties. Out strode the models, in the usual zigzag formation, wearing zippered hoodies and leggings with ruffled dresses and trenches, or soft, slouchy shirts over tiered skirts with lace-trim petticoats peeking out beneath. All of this was an imaginative lesson in layering clothes in an interesting and effective way. This collection was also a reminder of how, season after season, Vandevorst and Arickx rework their signature pieces to make great fashion. Some of this show's strongest offerings came from the biker jackets and cardigans that fastened with leather saddle straps, and the presence, yet again, of those billowing, masculine trenches.
|
Mark Holgate
|
October 3, 2004
|
An Vandevorst
|
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] | 1 | 109 |
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