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fashion_house
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,006 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
While violinists played classic Prince hits in the background, Phillip Lim spoke about wanting to inject some "street elegance" into his popular year-old 3.1 line. The closest the show got to street, though, was a Hendrix-style band jacket worn over a shirtdress and a biker vest paired with a plaid shirt that might have appealed to a Richards sister. Actually, it was a good thing that Lim didn't push his theme to an extreme. The appeal of his pretty-but-cool clothes is that they don't try too hard. Here, that meant a ruff-collar blouse to pair with shorts, a houndstooth trench with rolled sleeves, or a bow-belted skirt. And who could resist a shearling box coat trimmed with rope beading à la Chanel?
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 6, 2006
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,007 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
"Clothes people wear." With that deceptively simple mantra as a guiding principle, Phillip Lim has built an impressive contemporary label that other aspiring young designers might be wise to study. Not only because he does a bang-up business, but specifically because he somehow succeeds in making clothes that look much more expensive than they actually are—not, as is too often the case, the other way around.WithGrey Gardens' Edie Bouvier Beale as inspiration—"pedigree minus prudence," Lim called it backstage—the designer showed his most ambitious collection by far. It opened with a prep schooler's bow-front shirt, plaid skirt, and double-breasted coat and it closed with an ivory debutante dress in laundered silk gazar. In between, Lim perfectly evoked the studied insouciance of the swish set with a short metallic shift over a fitted tee, a white boyfriend blazer worn with a strapless turquoise cocktail dress, and a tough leather jacket topping a pinafore. And even with all those layers, a head-to-toe look could still run less than a blouse on the designer floor.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 3, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,007 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Phillip Lim's first-ever runway presentation got off to a frustrating start when an eager crowd had to wait in the near dark to gain access to their seats. But all was forgiven once his lovely show began. Working almost exclusively in white, with a few shots of navy, as well as a colorful floral, the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund finalist proved that he's not only a romantic—handmade rosettes decorated a T-shirt dress—but also an accomplished tailor. Lim can do simple, as demonstrated by a pair of high-waisted, pleated slacks, but he can also do complex: the crepe de chine blouse paired with those pants came with delicate sleeves of pleated tulle.Lim has a knack for combining the dressy and the casual—take a cotton voile strapless bell dress paired with a men's leather pilot vest, for instance; or a girlish jumper with an attached bodice made of sequins. Is it day or evening? His clients couldn't care less. More so than most young designers working today, Lim knows how fashionable women want to dress.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2006
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
He's a designer who often dismisses his clothes with an offhand, "It's just pretty. It's not trying tobeanything." But a few days before his Fall show, it was obvious that Phillip Lim had a lot on his mind—from the tanking economy's effect on both the world at large and his own expanding business to the growing up he's done personally as a designer to, oh, Stevie Nicks and David Bowie.Boil it all down and Lim's major impetus was maturity, his own and his customers'. That was clear from the first look out, a suede duster over a silk blouse and a midcalf skirt that looked a bit dowdy. But variety is the beauty of 3.1, and one of the reasons it's a retail darling: Stores and girls can buy it and wear it their way. So, amid the more staid fare (a thin gray V-neck sweater over gray flannels, or ladylike matelassé coats and dresses), Lim kicked up the cool factor with a tiny leather flight jacket (worn with an urban-bohemian maxidress) and what he calls "the new power suit": a black denim boyfriend blazer over terrific matching wide-leg jeans. There were several great dresses and great coats, too. Soon, 3.1 boutiques will be opening in Tokyo and Los Angeles, and shoppers will easily find what they came for.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 5, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
A Mercer Street store! A children's line! Eyewear! Perhaps it's all the endless goings-on in the house of Phillip Lim that were making him feel a bit escapist. "I wanted to make clothes that were ready for travel," he said before the show. Amelia Earhart was on his mind.The voyage began with his favorite model, Irina Lazareanu, in a khaki coat with epaulets (an easy best seller) over the more directional ensemble of a white shirt with an oversize tie and harem pants. From there the audience was transported in many stylistic directions, from sexy minis with exposed zips to a backless raffia cocktail dress, from a gray cashmere bandeau twinset to a Michael Jackson red leather jacket. Some looks, like a safari jacket over a pleated chiffon dress, made obvious statements about the improvisational nature of dressing on the go.Lim's eveningwear sells like hotcakes, and he expanded on the theme with a series of dresses fashioned in the style of Madame Grès, the Parisian mistress of pleats and draping. These were a sure thing for after eight, but it would have been nice to see a newer idea.Piece by piece, Spring offered the legions of Lim fans more of what they adore. But, taken as a whole, the message wasn't as coherent as Fall's—and awkward staging didn't help. After their loop on the sloped circular runway, the models placed themselves on a mushroom cluster of round platforms at its center. This caused a bit of confusion among the models and frustration among the photographers. Standing there, Lim's amassed crew looked like a crowd of chic strangers in an airport.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 8, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2008
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2008/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,008 |
resort
|
CFDA Swarovski Award winner Phillip Lim didn't mess with his hitherto successful formula for resort. Riffing on some of his biggest hits so far, he showed long cardigans over brief A-line dresses; flaring, pleated Alaïa-esque miniskirts with silk blouses; and cropped pants topped by boxy jackets. A ruffled-hem short chambray dress with a macramé belt looked fresh, as did a shirt in the same fabric with military epaulets that was worn with boy-cut trousers. The collection's highlight was a cocktail dress made from hundreds of tight whorls of tulle, a couture-like take on his best-selling flower appliqué T-shirt dress from spring. "Just don't call them rosettes," he said.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
July 2, 2007
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Thanks for asking, but business is just dandy in the Land of Lim, an exotic place where sell-throughs are strong, and where wait lists and reorders really do exist. "People still like the prices," reported Lim a few days ago in his studio. (That wait list, by the way, is for Spring's zipper dress.) His packed-to-the-rafters show (with Kanye and Amber Rose in attendance) clearly reflected his all-is-good state of affairs. Under the runway set of an illuminated arch, hipster singer Lissy Trullie and her band played live throughout. Spinning 180 degrees from last Fall when talk centered on growing up, this season Lim embraced the youthquake of sixties London, with all its vast attendant visual territory to mine: Biba, Ossie Clark, Granny Takes a Trip, Jimi Hendrix, Sergeant Pepper. Lim bopped easily from one influence to another, with lean Keith Richards-esque suits and groovy-glam marabou and goat-hair coats making nice with a slew of softly bohemian dresses (which will be the lazy girl's route to a fab vintage look). More than ever, Lim focused on coats. Those wishing to get their bandleader on for a nice price (and in a somewhat low-key manner) need look no further. A parka with rabbit-fur sleeves? Check. A gray breakaway shearling? Check. "It's about fun," said Lim. It's also about merch—mountains of it. In need of an edit? Maybe so, but if business is good, then bring it on.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 17, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The elaborate blond wood Moorish arches at the mouth of the runway were an obvious clue that Phillip Lim was about to hitch a ride onto a Spanish caravan for Spring. Far from rehashing flamenco skirts, the designer extracted a few choice motifs from his Andalusian inspiration. Foremost was the ruffle, which fluttered on the back flaps of chiffon trenchcoats and wobbled in tightly mashed form atop the bright Christian Louboutin pumps, but most often it came slightly flattened and unevenly tiered on the hems of garçon jackets and knit dresses. There was also a flash of mantilla fringe, and dresses and coats with the geometric echo of those mosques-turned-cathedrals.When it comes to his ever-growing business, however, Lim's focus goes beyond Iberia to the global front. And it's that international market's demand for more fashion ("they want the crazy," he said, a few days before the show) that encouraged him to be in experimental mode. But Lim's version of Direction for the Masses—heightened by skewed-bun hairdos and kooky double-loop belts in which many saw strains of Viktor & Rolf—was a bit overdone. There are undeniably great pieces in this collection, but Lim occupies a strange orbit in the fashion universe as the contemporary designer who garners attention equal to his higher-priced counterparts. Now that everyone's listening, sending a cohesive message of brand identity may be the next step.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 9, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,009 |
resort
|
Phillip Lim is already known as a commercially conscious designer, and he wasn't afraid to describe his Resort collection as more dedicated to his customer than ever. With a massive nod to Chanel's Deauville in classic little jackets, twinsets, and nautical references, he offered a smart, aspirational wardrobe of iconic pieces meant to appeal to both his young fans and their mothers. The breezily elegant column gowns he showed for evening may well instigate a family tiff.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
June 11, 2008
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A lot of designers like to think they know "what girls want," but Phillip Lim really has a knack for it. He senses early which way the winds are blowing, then nimbly and ably harnesses them with his chic pragmatist's sensibility. For Fall, he's getting in on fashion's clean-up act, now underway. "Last season, everything was on the outside," the designer said last week. "This season, we're paring down to the essence." That was seen to best effect in his strong, gotta-have-it outerwear. Take your pick from a luxe black buckled cape, a collarless camel coat edged in black silk, a leopard-print shaved rabbit fur, or a hybrid shearling-and-tweed toggle coat.That new simplicity dovetailed with part of Lim's inspiration, which set itself during a moment in the seventies when disco dissolved into punk and Halston's influence could still be felt. But the best souvenir from this bit of sartorial time travel was the trousers. The murmur of approval began with a pair of black suede flares in the second look, and slowly grew with the many creased and high-waisted pants that followed. One caveat: Most were cut in a seemingly heavy silk, sometimes with an animal print, that was pleasing to behold but didn't have immediate real-world appeal. (Though we reserve judgment until we've tried them on. We did just call Lim a chic pragmatist.) The best ones came in a blush bouclé and were paired with a languid gold sequin blouse. With an evening option like this, his severely asymmetrical silk dresses—hacked off, according to Lim's backstory, by an erstwhile Studio 54 reveler—seemed like less fun.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 16, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2010-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
menswear
|
fall
|
Style.com did not review the Fall 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
| null |
February 11, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
"Everyone says to back off aesthetically," said Phillip Lim, days before his show. "But that's not what's selling." Clearly, that counseling script should be flipped, and "everyone" should instead be heeding Lim, he of the stellar sell-throughs. The designer said he had been thinking about recasting basics, and working on a kind of primitive collage concept inspired by a visit to thePicasso: Mosqueterosshow at the Gagosian. But unlike Fall's collection, with its bohemian rock-chick vibe, Spring wasn't about an overarching theme or look: It was about giving them a reason to shop, and as such, there were many arguments here for a girl to unfreeze her AmEx.Lim set the stage with a jaggedly geometric red runway and opened with a lipstick-red suit. You might have mistaken it for a jumpsuit, but that's because the jacket was unlined and light enough to be tucked in. Lim called it "the new suit." It's machine-washable. The new dress, meanwhile, is a swingy, heart- and purse-string-pulling collage with panels of knife pleats, leather, and sequins, arranged in various compositions—perhaps a few too many. An iridescent sequined top and shorts will also send the Lim-ings off a shopping cliff. There was yet more specialness in a basic navy knit spiffed up with a croc jacquard, or the miss-it-from-the-second-row subtle lizard pattern on a blush trench—the result of the designer's recent reptile obsession. In short, this was a collection to sell, sell, sell, no matter what the prevailing wisdom.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
September 15, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
spring-2010-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
menswear
|
spring
|
Style.com did not review the Spring 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
| null |
September 10, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
resort-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,010 |
resort
|
The rock chick of Phillip Lim's Fall collection has landed on the beach. "She's a pirate," says the designer, pointing out the patchwork denim, the antique lace, and the "sun-bleached" florals and lamés. Still, this collection was as keyed into what hip urbanites want to wear as ever. Lim's super-popular jumpsuit made a reappearance; he showed several smart suits, this season with double-breasted jackets and rolled-hem shorts; and his trenches came every which way, including in sheer polka dots, faded floral sequins, and a lizard-stamped linen. (The latter looked disarmingly like the real thing, but was practically weightless—and will retail for less than $600.) On the news front, Lim has incorporated lingerie elements into everything from sheer blouses with built-in bra tops to a fluttery chiffon evening dress suspended from a sequined bralette.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 7, 2009
|
Phillip Lim
|
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|||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Girls on bikes. Of Phillip Lim's satchelful of references for Fall, that was the most interesting. After all, there's something terribly cool about a look that's remarkably stylish, yet not so precious that it'll be compromised by all that pedal-pushing. "It's about these chic women who ride bikes to work, to brunch, to a cocktail party," Lim said backstage before the show. "But how do you make everything functional without sacrificing form?"His answer was to splice functional-looking athletic and utilitarian elements into a chic fall urbanite wardrobe of cropped pants and smart coats. A navy silk dress took its cues from the classic nylon anorak, and silk jumpsuits had raglan sleeves—leather for day, covered with bobbling bronze beads for evening. And that's OK. But as such, this hybrid look isn't a million miles away from the mixed-up approach other designers have taken in recent seasons. Nevertheless, it yielded some nice pieces—mostly outerwear—like a black bonded-silk utility coat with big patch pockets, a letterman's jacket in curly lamb and leather, and sturdy ribbed cardigans sliced up the side. A white silk dress, modeled after a baseball jersey, with beaded sleeves was unexpectedly simple and lovely.However, the show wasn't without its moments of awkwardness, particularly in stiff carrot-shaped pants and squared-off culottes, all cut with an extra fold of material pleated onto the front. They were inspired by Lim's visual research of tribes and gangs. (That swirling floral print, by the way, was a nod to Japanese yakuza tattoos.) As Lim explained, cholos buy their pants too big and fold them in to have a heavier stance, something, it's fair to say, no shopping woman ever wants. Who ever said the battle of form and function would be easy?
|
Meenal Mistry
|
February 15, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
fall-2011-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-menswear/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
menswear
|
fall
|
"I love dressing up, but I'm still young," Phillip Lim said today during his first Paris menswear presentation, at the city's breathtaking Mint. "So how do you keep elegance youthful?"He found his answer in what he calls "sartorial idiosyncrasies"—hook-and-eye closure blazers, electric green and navy jacquards, evening sweatpants, and a sleeveless knit turtleneck pullover that he put over a suit and likened to a car cover. And yet for all those idiosyncrasies, there was a renewed emphasis on tailoring here, and an inquisitiveness and openness to experiment that pushed Lim's men's collection into a stronger space than it has occupied before. Take a lapel-less car coat: The designer was thinking about structure, but also about comfort, so while the front side is traditionally cut, the back is raglan, and it falls like a cardigan. Not a bad idea.There's a space-age strain to Lim's designs that sometimes sends him a little far afield. A marled French terry sweat suit looked like a television's static fuzz. But for every piece that didn't quite come off, there was one with verve to spare.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 21, 2011
|
Phillip Lim
|
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||
3 1 Phillip Lim
|
pre-fall-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/3-1-phillip-lim
| 2,011 |
pre-fall
|
Designers eager to replicate Phillip Lim's success should study the crepe mélange "sweatshirts" in his pre-fall collection. Lim saw his assistants wearing sweatshirts to work and loved the look, so he whipped up a few versions of his own in a crisp mélange fabric, trimming some in crystals at the neckline. Smart move. It might come as a shock to people in fashion, but most corporate dress codes don't smile on gym clothes at the office. Function has always been as compelling to Lim as form, and it is again for pre-fall. An untreated rabbit fur coat, for instance, reverses to navy. Wrap-front trousers can be worn with the flaps hanging down at the sides for a more undone vibe. And in a move that will delight fans of 1990s Helmut Lang, Lim has inserted straps inside coats at the armholes, the better to keep them in place when slung over the shoulders.The loose inspiration for the collection was the late British writer and cartographer Freya Stark. Her travels in the Arabian Desert seemed to influence the color palette of rusts, persimmons, and olives, as well as the uniformlike feel of a navy shirtdress and camel suiting. But Lim is a resolute modernist. His latest innovation: cotton woven with abaca, a fibrous plant native to the Philippines, for a crisp, sturdy hand.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 20, 2010
|
Phillip Lim
|
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] | 0 | 16 |
End of preview. Expand
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