what is a lightweight and fast bmx race bike that is affordable?
820367
Diamondback and specialized are not good bmx bikes.  I say this from experience.  They may be affordable but the parts quality is poor.  In racing you get what you pay for.  To build a decent light bike it takes around 500-700 dollars.  Mine actually cost 1200.  You didnt give your height so it makes this a little harder.  If you really want to you can buy a complete haro SX1 http://www.harobikes.com/bmx/bikes/group1_sxpro.php  It is a decent race bike complete for about 450 bucks.  You can also buy a complete Staats http://www.staatsbikes.com/Default.aspx?tabid=789 for around 550 i believe.  The Haro is a pro xl and if for riders 5'11 and up the Staats is a pro sized for riders 5'7 and up.   I would personally go for the Staats I believe they are better bikes for the money.  I am going to purchase their top of the line aluminum frame after I get over my broken wrist.  MCS also puts out a couple of complete bikes.  You can check www.danscomp.com for them and you can find other bikes if you are a shorter rider.  Here is a weblink for a sizing chart so that you can make a better informed decision on your bike.  http://www.wiregrassbmx.com/bmxtech.html  Now you can find your size and look for bikes in that area.  Though if you want to build a truly light and possibly smoother and more personal bike buy a frame and pick out the parts you want.  You will be much happier with the bike and can make it lighter than a stock bike.  Hope that information helps you out.
173190
From all of my years of riding and working in a shop, I would say that clipless pedals are one of the best upgrades you can make to your bike.  I say best but not the cheapest because cheap pedals are a disaster, dont get sucked in to price on this issue.\nOnce you get past the learning curve (varies for each person) you will find that clipless pedals give you a better pedal stroke, a more "at one" feeling with your bike and really a safer interface between your shoe and pedal.  If the small platform of a clipless pedal makes you nervous, look at the downhill or bmx style of pedals which give you a larger place for your foot.  Unless you are a racer, dont get talked into the lightweight, minimalistic, supermega titanium-ceramic alloy pedal that will literally make your bike float they are so light kind of pedal.  They are harder to adapt to and supermega titanium-ceramic alloy expensive.  Now for the best trick.  The best way to get used to the feel and action of your new clipless pedals is to put your bike in a stationary trainer and just practice getting in and out of your pedals.  If you dont own one, most shops will have one around, and if you know them well the shop rats may let you rent or just borrow the trainer for a few days, especially if you buy your pedals and shoes from them.\nOh and by the way, make sure to get comfy shoes, but remember, on a smaller pedal, the sole of your shoe is effectively your pedal platform.  Choose your shoe wisely and choose your sole stiffness accordingly.
808467
BMX is for stunts on skate parks, they are small bikes that are tough, simple and you can do a lot of stuff as long as you stay in one place, I don't think they're confortable for long distance.\n\nMountain bikes are for riding off-road.  You could use them also for paved roads, but they're not pretty fast, although probably more confortable than a road bike.  They usually have 26" or 29" sized wheels (26" is the more common), and the tires are wide, they have a more relaxed body position than road.  There are several sub-categories in mountain bike:  XC, Freeride, Downhill, 4X.  XC (or cross-country) are bikes that are light, and have geometry and components to be fast and can be ridden for ups and down, but are not designed to take abuse like jumps, rocks, and steep descent.  Freeride bikes are tougher, have more relaxed geometry, and maybe they're like BMX is for road riding, you can do a lot of stuff on them (except peddal long distances, or climb).  Downhill bikes are also some very tough bikes, they have a longer wheelbase than freeride bikes to make them more stable, and are also designed to be tough, and ridden fast downhill, but are not designed to be ridden uphill (because the weight, and they usually don't have many speeds).  4X or mountaincross bikes are like dual slalom on bikes.  They're designed for short race courses involved 4 guys, some jumps, and are fast and hard.\n\nRoad bikes are geared for speed on pavement.  Look at the TDF or Giro de Italia, and that's what they're for.  Well, you don't need to compete, but those are the bikes.\n\nTriatlon bikes are similar than road bikes, I really don't know the differences, but they usually have different handlebars than road bikes.\n\nConfort bikes or hybrids are somewhere between a road bike and a mountain bike.
708894
Try looking into a Trek Madone.  I have a friend who bought his Madone 5.2 a couple months ago and he loves it.\n\nI just bought my Fuji Roubaix Pro a month ago and love it.\n\nMy girlfriend bought her Specialized Dolce Comp two weeks ago and she loves it.\n\nOther than that, check out the Trek, Fuji, Cannondale, Lightspeed websites.  Be sure that you get minimum components of Shimano 105s (or even better, the Shimano Ultegras)\n\nCheck http://www.performancebike.com/\n\nThey're trying to unload their 2006 inventory and selling them all at a really good price.\n\nHappy hunting!
724950
Please check www.blueskycycling.com  The Kenda TOMAC Nevegal  ( about $33 ) 2.1 is a race-proven rear tire---used by pro rider Eric Carter!  Or try the Hutchinson Python Airlight ( $ 20) from Price Point ( www.pricepoint.com )----Hammer bro!
987459
I think that you need to consider the type of riding you will do.  A mountain bike will look cool, but if you are riding on streets, skinny tires can go faster.\n\nThe most important thing is to buy a bike that fits you, and is the highest quality frame that you can afford.  I think that you will probably be happiest with a bike that makes YOU look good.  Even the coolest looking bike will make you feel silly if you are always trying to catch up.\n\n\nBelow is a link to some articles written by a very funny bike expert.
1146798
Believe it or not, you are not that heavy...  any good quality bike should work for you, but you might want to start on a mountain bike.\n\nTake a look at www.specialized.com and ride safe!
697015
haro V4 but u might want to consider the following\n\nu should consider getting companys like haro,kona,norco,specialized,tr... and gt. start with kona, specialized and giant they make good bikes and they are cheap for bikes within the same range. for kona look for stuff, lavadom or scrap\nnorco:shore series\nharo:v series\nspecialized:any thing they are all good and cheap\nironhorse:make almost unbreakable bikes but they are heavy\nbanshee:morphine series\n\n\nbefore buying the bike make sure that the dimonds of the frame should be small and points upwards the tyres should be wide and with lots of rubber studs. the fork should have atleast 100mm of travel better if beond 130mm. the suspention brand that you should look for is marzochii or rock shock they are the most common ones. if you dont like the suspention then you might consider spending an other 500$ on bomber shocks they are good qualityed stuff. i recomand a hard tail because they are easier to ride up hill and gives lots of air. and is cheaper and lighter. you should look for disk breaks but if the bike dont come with them v breaks are good too exept over time they dig into your rim and shorten the rim's life.
1008757
FOR UNDER $300... that's a tall order. I guess, get to be buddies with someone who has a bike they can sell you used. That's still cutting it awful close. You could do it on a regular road racing bike, again, you'll have to go used and don't expect STI or Campagnolo Ergo (brake levers that have shifters built in). But with a regular road bike it'd be more likely than with a Tri-specific bike.\n\nIf you're handy with a wrench you might be able to build one up for that amount, maybe even an old Trek 2100 or 2300 with downtube shifters. \n\nFactor in the cost of bike shoes and pedals as well - this will eat up alomst $200 if you go inexpensive but still decent. If you just want to do the course, and not expect to be competitive, it's doable for a little less.
1111577
Racer bikes or road bikes---choose TREK, LITESPEED,Colnago or Giant.In mountain bikes----get ROCKY MOUNTAIN, Titus, Santa Cruz or Ellsworth. Select if you intend for cross-country, freeriding, trail-riding, or downhill slamming---the bikes have their specific features that cater to the rider's prowess.
983691
go to www.danscomp.com  or look up J&R Cycles online store they will have what you are looking for.  Oh and to the guy that said that Euro BB arnt used much anymore is nuts 90% of bmx bikes use Euro BB that are of good quality anyway.
792177
Well, I am a pretty hard core mountain biker and dirt jumper. In that price range you aren't going to find a bike out of the entry level range. Entry level Kona, Trek, Specialized, Jamis bikes are pretty good. The only problem with an entry level is that your rear axle may break if you decide you want to ride a little more hard and down and dirty. Also the fork that entry level bikes come with are shit. They have, like, two inches of travel.\nSo after that, I suggest that when you go to buy the bike, get something like a specialized hardrock or specialized rockhopper or something. They are both mountain bikes, with decent forks, and a strong axle. It can be used on the road as much as you want, and it's not a REALLY heavy bike. Depending on what year model you buy, it's going to be a little over $300, but it's well worth it.\n\nHope I helped!\nLater.\n\nCher.
752490
forget the choices you have I'd suggest a Giant STP..you can get a 07 frame for $300 or talk to your local Giant dealer about a 2006 stp complete bike, I know right now giant is blowing them out to make room for the new stuff. the STP (Street,Trails,Park) is a sweet bike, the geo. is perfect for street or DJ and it rides well on the trails\nI have owned a P bike and a Cowan before and will never go back now that I ride a STP
991406
ok, no one has really addressed your needs here, just thiers.  long distance riding, not RACING, requiers a bike with a few things road bikes lack.  when you hear "road bike" read it as "racing bike", because thats what they are designed for.  road bikes have \nstiff frames for acceleration, light weight for the same reason, flimsy wheels, same reason, and aerodynamic riding positions, same reason.  they also have narrow saddles, and a gear range that is too high, or hard, for normal guy long distance riding.\ntouring bikes on the other hand, have a much wider range of usable gears, including a series of extra low gears for steep extended hills, higher handlebars for less back and neck and hand and wrist strain, wider saddles for better sit bone support, \nmore compliant frames for a nicer ride, more powerful brakes for stopping under load, and more durable wheels, not to mention fatter tires, which makes the ride more comfortable.  road bikes cant take fat tires or fenders, rendering them useless in the rain, gravel, dirt, ect.  fat tires protect the rims from pot holes, and general road debris.  steel is generally accepted as the ideal touring bike frame material.  people say steel is heavy, but well made steel bikes are within a quarter pound of an aluminum bike, and will survive wrecks much better.  good steel bikes last a lifetime.  aluminum lasts a decade.  long story short, a good touring bike will be a lifetime investment, wearas a road racing bike is a fragil object at best, suited for fast paced riding over smooth roads in ideal weather.  \na decent touring bike can be had for 1300, custom complete, made to measure.  if a shop tries to talk you into a road racing bike, its cause thats all they know, and all they have to sell.  \ntouring bikes arnt money makers, they last too long, and cost too much to build.  800 dollars buys you nothing, not even a bad cheap road bike.  think of it as an investment.  road bikes, if your lucky, last 10 years.  thats if you never crash... they will never carry loads well, never handle predictably under load, and are prone to mechanical failure..
768703
You should be able to find one for that price.  There are 2 main types out there: fluid and mag (magnetic) - it's the type of resistance used.  There are pros and cons to both, but not having a trainer, I'm not exactly sure.  Your best bet is to go to your local bike shop and ask them, also if they're nice they might have some set up you can test out.  As with bikes, it's really just a personal choice on what you want.  And if budget is a big issue, you might consider buying online (eBay or CraigsList)
523746
Lightspeed and several other manufacturers make good tri bikes...  go to your local bike shop and ask.  I have a few friends who ride Quintana Roo and others.  Ride safe!
270240
I would recommend checking out your local bike shop first. Sometimes they have a great deals from last season and they will fit you on the bike for free. Otherwise if you are sure on size I would recommend visiting Ebay. There are some great deals out there to be had, though make sure you have all the details on the bike before purchasing. \n\nLastly for the sake of all the racers out there, let people know you are doing a 100 mile ride this September not a race. Genreally if you are doing to be doing a 100 race you won't be looking for a used bike because you would be an upper category racer if not professoinal. \n\nRegardless enjoy the bike once you get it and I highly recommend getting fit on the bike by a local shop who knows what they are doing. It will make a huge difference in the comfort of the ride. Too many people just throw a leg over a bike and then complain about how uncomfortable it is later.