how to repair a browning rifle that has the bolt stuck closed?
814595
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, before you do anything ... is the rifle loaded?\n\nSecond, it sounds as though the bolt body may be bent or damaged from a previous round fired (perhaps an improperly handloaded round?), and the bolt started to collapse. This is not a receiver problem! A gunsmith should not have to "re-mill" the receiver. And, don't use WD-40 ... I have had bad luck with it and guns.\n\nYour wisest move is to first call Browning and talk with them ... they will suggest that you send the rifle to them for inspection and repair. Take the rifle and its packaging to your local gunsmith for shipment back to Browning ... you can no longer do this yourself! \n\nAs an aside ... I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 ... and they replaced the bolt ... plain and simple. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer!
953715
I assume you have a straight bolt handle on your gun.  Just have a gunsmith bend it.
412434
im stuck on my ole' 67 remington 1100 semi-auto 12 with modified choke, all originall parts all i have had to do is clean it. they still make it today, but with some changes. ribbed barrell, extra ball sight halfway down the barrel, and now comes with 3" chamber, and screw-in chokes. but ill never have one cause i think mine is going to out-live me
858738
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis part, surprisingly, is not available from Numrich Arms.\n\nI would suggest that you contact Wolff Springs, see link below!
355318
yes the spring tension should be adjustable see a gunsmith or read a book also   wipe all the parts that move with a jewelers clothe and they will move smoother together thets an old army shooting team trickdont forgit to oil up the parts that you  fine tune  good luck
1118263
yup yup. just put your hand blocking the bolt from fully recocking but let it recock close to full. this will stop the sear from catching the bolt assembly and it will go full auto or just jam the sear down
93560
It is dependant on the make and model of the rifle you are trying to disassemble. There are several on-line sources for diagrams that might help you. One of the most complete can be found at http://www.e-gunparts.com/aboutschematics.asp . I have used this free resource in the past and found it very helpful.\n\nBe very careful not to bend or distort any parts during disassembly and be aware there may be springs under tension that could cause injury. If your not fully confident undertaking the disassembly, please consult a qualified gunsmith for assistance. Above all make sure the rifle is unloaded and made full safe before beginning any repair or modification
576737
If its a ink sensor then you burn the little ball part until the springs pop out, you might have to dig a bit but it will come off. If its not an ink sensor go to the hardware store to get (i can't think of the name, sorry) but it looks like a fork with only 2 proungs and you put it in between the sensor and pop it off.
609946
Do you have a firearms dealer in your city?  If so take it there and they'll be able to tell you how to fix it.  Or better still, take it to a gunsmith.
693879
You wont hurt it, those things are made like tanks!  just unscrew and unbolt it.... there should have been a manual that came with your gun, it explains it there.
167804
Check out http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=3620zP-380    \n\nIt is a detailed parts diagram and should provide a goo start.  Some of the small caliber blowback pistols have a driveout pin that has to be removed to free the slide for removal then the slide is pulled way back tipped off of the frame rails, then slid forward & off of the fixed barrel. I'd also look at part 15 on the diagram if the above doesn't break it down. Somehow that slide has to move back and off of the rails
691986
it uses a barrel made for it.  check the threads if you wish to change it
1177062
connect a new box of linked rounds (Or m16 mag) feed the links in retract the bolt & release - off you go...\n\nBut if you have access to a m249 you should know this.......  besides operating anything like this is pretty simple - its got to be done in the pitch dark, mud etc, by a soldier who is thinking of a million other ways to save his butt, not "How do i do this..."
1055734
First I Invite you to join the swedish Mauser Yahoo group. Next If you have never used open sights, heres the $.02 lesson. Sight the bullseye (plate) to sit directly above the front sight ( without the gap)\n\n                                 O\n                                  II\n\n\nThe rear notch is alined like this:\n                                     \n                              &#92;||/\n\nSo when you shoot, focus the eye on the front sight thus making the bullseye fuzzy and all aligned like this:( but no gap!) Adjust your hold till the rounds hit the black\n\n\n\n                                O\n                               &#92;||/
214168
I would suggest that you check out this website: http://couragerc.net/\n\nCheck this website out as well: http://www.narth.com/docs/repair.html
956754
your best bet is to take it to a reputable gun dealer and see if he recognizes the weapon or any markings on it... I had the same situation with a sears roebuck .22 rifle... turned out it was originally a winchester design purchased by Lakefield arms in Canada... fortunately, lakefield was still in existance, I wa alble to purchase new springs and firing pin... bought extras just incase they go under... by the way, since Sears only relabled and never actually manufactured fire arms... the one you have is likely a collecters item and may be worth a few $$... beware, gun dealers may recognize this and make you an offer on the gun... another place to check is the shooters bible... good luck!\nsome additional information I just found... Try this Web page http://oldguns.net/ Antique and Collectable Firearms and Militaria Headquarters. also... do a google search on "sears and roebuck firearms"... lot of info there...
1163315
1. MAKE SURE YOUR PISTOL IS UNLOADED!  \nI can't stress this enough.  \nRemove the magazine and retract the slide to ensure \nthe chamber is clear.  \n  \n2. Disassemble the pistol according to the owner's manual. \n I can't help you much here. If you don't know the proper procedure  \ninvolved, you should probably stop reading right now and search the \nInternet, or post a query to the rec.guns newsgroup.\n  \n  \n3. Place a few drops of solvent into the breech end of the barrel. \nFor this purpose you can see I'm using BreakFree CLP.  \n  \n4. Insert the bore brush from the breech end and brush out the \nbarrel. \nAccording to some, this is where the greatest potential for damaging  \nyour barrel occurs.  Be sure to keep the sides of the cleaning rod from  \ntouching the inside of the barrel.  Always start the brush into the barrel \nfrom the breech (chamber) end.  Also, avoid touching the crown of the \nmuzzle with the cleaning rod.  Some people are so concerned with  \ndamaging the muzzle crown that don't pull the brush back  \nthrough from the muzzle end -- they unscrew the brush, remove the  \nrod, and reassemble the rod and brush for another pass through the  \nbore.  Personally, I don't bother with that level of caution, since I  \nfeel that by the time my practices damage the crown my gun will  \nhave bigger problems at that pont. \n\nAnyway, make several passes through the bore, until you feel the  \nfouling has been removed. \n  \n  \n5. Run patches through the bore.  \nPlace a clean patch on your jag, wet with solvent, and pass it  \nthrough the bore.  This will remove the crud you've just loosened with  \nyour brushing.  \n\nRepeat with another clean, solvent-soaked patch, and then \nrun a dry, clean patch through the bore.  Inspect the barrel for remaining \nfouling (dark smears along the rifling).  If necessary, repeat Steps 3-5. \n\nWhen cleaned to your satisfaction, run a lightly oiled patch through the \nbarrel, followed by a clean dry patch.  If you're using CLP or Ed's Red,  \ndon't bother; there's already an oily film in the bore for corrosion protection.\n  \n  \n6. Clean the slide.  \nUsing a solvent-soaked patch, rag, or toothbrush, clean the fouling and any  \nsmeared oil off the inside and outside of the slide.  Pay special attention to  \nthe following  areas: locking lug grooves (if any), muzzle end of slide (where \nbarrel tip moves inside the slide), breech face (where firing pin hole is), and  \nunderneath the extractor, a particularly common place for gunk to collect -- \nand cause problems.  In the second image to the right, I indicate the area \nunder the extractor.  I like to use a toothpick to clear out the often hardened \nlead and powder fouling from this area. \n\nAlso, don't forget the grooves where the slide fits the frame -- you want to  \ndefinitely remove any grit or oily sludge from this area.\n  \n  \n7. Clean the frame.  \nAgain, remove any fouling or caked-on carbon you find.  Pay extra  \nattention to the area where the barrel locking lugs fit into the frame \n(usually right ahead of the trigger area),  as well as the slide rails which \nwill likely contain an oily or gritty sludge.  Get a handful of Q-tips if  \nnecessary.  Don't forget the bottom of the magazine well.\n  \n  \n8.  Lubricate according to manufacturer's recommendations. \nRefer to your owner's manual for recommended lubrication points.  If  \nyou don't have a manual, here's what I generally do:  \n\n1) very lightly oil the moving parts of the trigger and hammer assemblies,  \nand any other moving internal parts (be sure to wipe away excess) \n\n2) lightly oil or grease the surfaces of the slide rail areas on the slide and  \nframe,  \n\n3) lightly oil or grease the locking lug area (ahead of the ejection port), cycle \nthe slide, and wipe off any excess (see first photo to right) \n\n4) lightly wipe the exterior surfaces with an oily patch o