what is the procedure to prepare phenolphthalein?
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Two types of preps.\n\nA. To make the solution you use in titrations.\n\nPreparation of Phenolphthalein Indicator (Acid/Base Indicator) \n\n1. - Weigh out 0.5 g of phenolphthalein.\n\n2. - Prepare a 50% ethanol (ethyl alcohol) solution consisting of 50ml ethanol and 50 ml water. \n\n3. - Dissolve the phenolphthalein thoroughly in the 50% ethanol solution. \n\n4. - Use from a bottle fitted with an eye dropper. Store the rest in a stoppered bottle. \n\n\nB. To synthesize the chemical you have to go back to references in the 1880s or the patent literature of the 1950s.  You will need to find a university library for that.  The basics are the condensation reaction of phenol and phthalic anhydride.  A more modern method is given in the reference.
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There are many you could choose.  These may not be the most efficient, but I'm just going with initial thoughts here.\n\n1.  Aniline -> benzamide\nDiazotise the aniline and trap out with CO2 to form benzoic acid, then make an amide.  Probably easiest way is to make the acid chloride with (COCl)2 and then treat with NH3.\n\n2. Bromobenzene -> 1-phenylethanol\nForm phenylmagnesium bromide by treating bromobenzene with magnesium in diethyl ether, and react with ethanal.\n\n3. Butanal -> 1-chloropropane\nMany ways to do this, none of them nice.\n\nReduce butanal to butanol, de-hydrate, perform a reductive oxonolysis to give 1-propanol and then do a chloro-dehydroxylation with SOCl2 or something like that.\n\nAlterantively you could oxidise and do a Barton-Crich de-carboxylation and trap out the radical with NCS, although this method may not be too successful.\n\nHope these quick ideas help.
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1. Get old newspaper.\n2. Soak it. Completely saturate it with water.\n3. Stick it in a blender. Add some ink or even food coloring. Turn it into a pulp.\n4. Try to find some fine mesh. Chicken wire works, if it's fairly closely spaced. Pour the concoction over it. Put paper towels and a book on top to press it.\n5. Dry overnight. Be careful when you peel it off.\n\nOld blue jeans also work (arguably better), but they'll kill your blender.
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check this link-- http://www.orgsyn.org/orgsyn/prep.asp?prep=cv6p0468.\n\ninstead of Me use Ph
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Assuming a pure substance, (this method will not work on mixtures).  \n1. Dissolve in Carbon disulphide.  (The compound is now banned in schools)\n2. Allow to evaporate in a fume cupboard.\n3. The presence of yellow rhombic like crystals is a test for S.\n4. Melt a sample and do a MP test.\n5. Melt a few grammes and allow to cool in air.  Needle like crystals will be formed.
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Nutrient broth ingredients:\n\nMeat extract 10.0 gm\nPeptone 10.0 gm\nSodium chloride 5.0 gm\nDistilled water 1000 ml\nMix the ingredients and dissolve them by heating in a steamer. When cool, adjust the pH to 7.5-7.6.\n\nTo make it agar add:\nTo the ingredients as in nutrient broth, add 15 gm agar per litre. Dissolve the agar in nutrient broth and sterilize by autoclaving at 121oC for 15 minutes. Prepare plates and slopes as required.
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This might not be the simplest way possible, but here goes:\n\n(Starting with propanone)\n1. H3O+/I2 (to form 1-iodopropanone)\n2. (Ph)3P (triphenylphosphine forms the ylide)\n3. butanone* (Wittig reaction, now you should have hepta-3-ene-2,6-one)\n4. H2/Pd/C (hydrogenate the C=C; hopefully this'll leave the C=O's alone)\n5. H3O+ (intramolecular aldol condensation to close the ring, with dehydration to form the C=C double bond)\n\n*can be made from propylaldehyde and CH3MgBr\n\nNote: No guarantees this'll work as desired. :)
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welld oint this can be tricky without proper sterile procedure... however it is not impossible...\n\n\nget a sleeve of plastic or glass petri dishes\n\nmix up a mixture of Malt Extract And Agar... and put it in a sealable vessle that can be pressure cooked or boiled at a high temperature...\n\nIn a clean environment after boiling or pressure cooking for about 15-25 minutes, \n\ntake the vessle and pour your agar plates...\n\ntake the dishes and let them cool in a very clean environment\n\nonce cool....\n\ntake a qtip and swab the inside of your mouth really well\n\nopen each plate and swab the surface with the qtip\n\nrepeat for each plate\n\nincubate the plates at room temperature for about 3 days or so\n\nyou should see some growth\n\nor you can do it this way\n\nhttp://www.science-projects.com/NAplates.htm\n\nwww . Science-Projects . com \n\n\n\n\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nMaking Nutrient Agar ("NA") Plates\n \n| Site's Table of Contents | Site's Index |\n\n\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nThere are several ways to make NA plates, all depending on what you have to start with. The well equipped person has clean and sterile empty petri plates, and a bottle of NA powder sitting on the shelf. That person needs only to follow the directions on the bottle. As it is the purpose of this website to assist those who, being mostly young students, have neither NA powder nor even petri plates. What are they to do? Here's what! \n\nPETRI PLATES FROM SCRATCH\n(click this to find ready-made plates) \n\nFirst, you must find something that simulates a petri plate. Rather shallow glass custard cups covered by a double thickness of aluminum foil works well. \n\nSecond, you must have the nutrient agar to put in them. What might you use as a alternative to the commercially available microbiological stuff? The answer is canned beef or chicken broth (supermarket) and agar (health foods store; sometimes called "agar agar"). \n\nThird, you must sterilize these things in appropriate combinations. Included in the following steps will be the way to use a pressure cooker. There is NO substitute for a pressure cooker or autoclave, which is an automated pressure cooker. Boiling is not a sterilizing condition. Boiling doesn't work! The only commonly employed sterilizing conditions are wet heat at 120°c (250°F) for 20 minutes (pressure cooker), or dry heat in excess of 190°c (375°F) or more for an hour or more (oven). \n\n\nMeasure and record the amount of water that half-fills a custard cup. \nDetermine the number of plates (custard cups) you will need to use, and from that the amount of medium you need to make to half-fill all the cups. \nEmpty a can of fatfree beef or chicken broth into a large measuring cup and dilute, if necessary, with water as per the instructions on the side of the can. Mix. Discard the excess beyond what you need for your cups. Pour this into a sauce pan. \nAdd 1 level teaspoon of agar per 2/3 cup of broth. Stir the required amount of agar into the COLD broth in the sauce pan. \nTurn on the heat, and with constant and continuous stirring and/or swirling bring just to a boil. Keep swirling, and then adding small amounts of heat, and do this until all the granules of agar are dissolved. Agar solutions burn very easily - just like making gravy (in which you have added another polysaccharide as a thickening agent). An alternative way to do it is to place the broth/agar mix into a glass bowl and place it in a microwave oven. But do this cautiously as the mix will suddenly foam up. So be ready to shut off the energy at any moment. Give the dissolving solution a swirl, and microwave a bit longer. Swirl and energize repeatedly until all the granules are dissolved.§ \nDistribute the hot medium among the cups you need. \nPlate pieces of double-thick aluminum foil over the cups so that at leas
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1.   Grate one bar of soap...use new or old pieces  \n  \n2.   Place the grated soap and 1 c. boiling water in a blender and set it on "whip."  \n  \n3.   Add 1 tbsp. honey and 1 tsp. glycerin and stir.  \n  \n4.   Cool the mixture for 15 to 20 minutes and whip again.  \n  \n5.   Add cold water to the mixture until you have 6 c.  \n  \n6.   Whip the mixture again.  \n  \n7.   Pour it into a storage container and let it cool. Do not place a lid on the container.  \n  \n8.   Fill a pump dispenser with the soap. Shake before using.  \n____________________________________________________\nLiquid / Gel Soap \n\n2 cups soap flakes or grated bar soap \n1/2 gallon water \n2 tbsp glycerin \nMix ingredients together in a large pot or dutch oven. Set over low heat, stirring occasionally until the soap has dissolved. Transfer to a jar and cover tightly. For a less thick gel soap, use 1 gallon of water.
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There are instructions here:\nhttp://www.soapcrafters.com/recipes_shampoo.htm\nhttp://www.craftbits.com/viewProject.do?projectID=133\nhttp://www.aromaticsandmore.com/formulas/making_shampoo.html
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Boil ¼ cup of water. Add one teaspoon of gelatin and one teaspoon of\nsugar. Stir for one minute until everything is dissolved.\n2. Cool the solution for ten minutes.\n3. Fill a petri dish to a little below the top edge.\n4. Close the petri dish by putting on the cover immediately. Let the\ncovered petri dish stand for at least four hours. Don’t touch the\ngrowth medium or you’ll add your own germs!\nThis recipe will fill two, small petri dishes. If you and your class plan to fill\nmore petri dishes, make more germ food by increasing the amount of your\ningredients proportionally.\n*Adapted from Gross But True Germs by Luann Colombo. See details in bibliography. If you don’t\nhave the materials needed for the experiment, you can purchase Ms. Colombo’s book, which includes\nall the supplies needed to conduct the experiment.
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If gloop is like slime, then here's the directions.....\n\n\nIngredients:\n1/2 cup white glue \n6 Tbsp. water \nFood coloring \n1-4 tsp. Borax \n1-4 Tbsp. water \n \nDirections:\nMix the glue, 6 tablespoons water and food coloring until it is dissolved. \n\nIn a separate bowl, dissolve 1 teaspoon borax into 1 tablespoon water. Add to the glue solution. You will get a very thick clump of slime when the two mix. Pull the clump of slime out of the glue mixture and put it in a separate bowl. \n\nMix another batch of the borax solution and add to the remaining glue mixture. Repeat until all the glue mixture is used (about 3-4 times). \n\nWith clean hands, knead the slime to mix. This will take about 10 minutes and is not very difficult as the slime easily separates between your fingers. \n\nIf a looser, more slimy texture is desired knead in a bit more water. The more water you add, the slimier it gets. \n\nThe slime doesn't leave a residue and doesn't get stuck on anything. \n\nStore in an airtight container. This can easily be doubled, tripled or quadrupled.
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Total Yeast RNA is obtained by extracting a whole cell homgenate with phenol. The concentrated solution of phenol disrupts hydrogen bonding in the macromolecules causing denaturation of protein, The turbid suspension is centrifuged and two phases appear. The lower phenol phase contains DNA and the upper aqueous phase contains carbohydrates and RNA. Denatured protein which is present in both phases is removed by centrifugation. The RNA is intact with alcohol added. The product this obtained is free of DNA but usually contains or contaminated with polysaccharide. Further purification can be made by treating the preparation with amylase.
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You need to research soap making prior to diving into this.  Lye is extremely caustic!  Never soap around kids!\n\n10 ounces Palm Oil \n4 ounces Coconut Oil \n2 ounces Olive Oil \n2 ounces lye \n4 fluid ounces water \n4 fluid ounces papaya juice \n\nDirections:\n1. Pour lye into the water (never pour water into lye) - Set aside to cool\n2. Melt oils together -set aside to cool\n3. When oils are approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit and lye water is approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, gently pour lye into oils (never pour oils into lye)\n4. Add juice to mixture, stirring constantly\n5. Mix until soap traces\n6. Pour into prepared molds\n7. Cover with plastic wrap and insulate\n8. Allow to stand covered and out of drafts for 24 hours\n9. Remove form molds and cut as desired\n10. Allow to age in open air for 2-3 weeks before using\n\npapaya juice can be purchased at most major grocers or health food stores.
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You+ll need a large pot, a onegallon vinegar or cider bottle, a 4' or 5' length of plastic tubing (try-airline+ tubing from a pet shop), a balloon or non-lubricatedcondom, a package of wine yeast (not bread yeast), wine bottles,corks, a corking device, and 2 1/2 pounds of honey.First you need to prepare the mixture that will be fermented. Takeyour pot and add the honey and enough water to finish filling up theone gallon bottle. Bring these to a boil slowly. If you don+t wantscum in your mead and it forms on the top, skim it off. You don+tneed to boil it for any length of time, you just need to bring it up tothis temperature. Boiling for a while will release a lot of scum andadditives which you can get rid of right now and it will also allowthe mead to age more quickly. However, some of this -scum+ as I+vecalled it is made up of those very things which can create flavornuances. I don+t boil mine. When you decide it+s done, let it cool longenough so it won+t melt the plastic tubing, then siphon the mead intothe gallon jug , cap and let cool overnight. The gallon jug is yourprimary fermenter.Did you sterilize the pot? the bottle? the cap? the plastic tubing?No! Pour it out and start again - yes I am serious.Once the mixture is cooled to room temperature you will need topitch the yeast. Get a small cup half full with warm, but not hot,water and add the yeast. Let it sit for about ten minutes and absorbwater and liven up, then pour it into your gallon jug and mix it in.As of now your honey and water mixture is now being converted intomead. However, this will take about two weeks, perhaps more, tocomplete. During this time the mead mixture will bubble and foam,and this is what the balloon is for. Cover the top of the bottle withthe balloon and about an hour later, when the balloon has started toinflate but has not become too stretched, poke a few holes in it witha pin. (I understand this may make you wince if you are using acondom.) This balloon takes the place of a fermentation lock andallows the gas to escape while not allowing air in, thus keeping thefermentation bottle sterile. The holes may become clogged withfoam and you may need to poke a few more. Just remember thepurpose of this and use your common sense. I+ve accomplished thiswith plastic wrap and a rubber band, but I wouldn+t advise others totry unless you+re fond of unmet expectations.About two weeks from this point the balloon will cease to be greatlyinflated and will eventually go limp. When it has been completelylimp for a few days and the mead is clear rather than cloudy,fermentation is over. At this point sanitize your wine bottles andplastic tubing and bottle the mead. Be careful not to get the yeastinto the bottles as it+s not exactly tasty stuff. I stop about an inchbefore the bottom of the primary fermenter and we siphon off thelast inch into cups and toast the new mead. My mead has been verytasty at this point, other people describe theirs as tasting like paintthinner. In any case, you may not mind a little yeast in your cup now,but don+t inflict it on yourself in the future by bottling it.Wait two to six months and then enjoy. Since the above recipe has noadditives which would hasten aging, it may take a while for it tobecome truly fine mead, perhaps years. There are a lot of chemicaladditives that one can use to improve the flavor and process. Themost common and important addition is a teaspoon of yeastenergizer or yeast nutrient. Others include grape tannin (1/4teaspoon), malic acid (2 or 3 teaspoons), tartaric acid (1 to 2teaspoons). I recommend all of these chemical additives in your firstbatch, but if you can+t find them you can make do with naturalingredients or nothing at all.One can also add slices of fruit, raisins, or berries for flavor and inplace of grape tannin. One recipe I know of adds some apple jelly. Afew lemon peels will substitute for malic acid and a spoonful ofstrong tea will do replace tartaric acid. Hops are a common additiveand
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Ingredients:\nWater \nFlour (one part flour to one part water) \nStrips of Newspaper, about 1 inch wide \nchicken wire (form into the shape of a volcano, this will be the base and hold the papermache in place while it is drying)\nDirections:\nMix flour and water in a large bowl (2 cups of each is a good amount with which to start) until it makes a smooth paste. Dip in the newspaper strips, one at a time, remove the excess paste from your fingers and lay the coated newspaper on the form to be papier mâchèd. Smooth out the wrinkles and continue to place coated newspaper over the surface until completely covered. When the surface has totally dried, paint your own design using acrylic or poster paint.
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http://www.uni-regensburg.de/Fakultaeten/nat_Fak_IV/Organische_Chemie/Didaktik/Keusch/D-Dyeing_vat-e.htm\n\nFound by simple web search