i have a browning 20 ga. cittori.the lower barrel intermittently will not strick the primer hard enough to fir
828098
The three most likely causes are 1. weak spring.  Take it to a gunsmith.  2. a bent or damaged firing pin.  Take it to a gunsmith.  3. Dirt in the firing pin hole or around the firing pin.  Use a cleaning solvent and a tooth brush to flush the dirt out and then spray some WD-40 into it and let it set for a few hours.  Wipe it dry and try it to see if you have solved the problem.  Try number 3 first because it is the only one that you can do yourself.  If that doesn't work, then take it to the gunsmith.
618461
my favorite in a handgun has to be a ruger vaquero 44 mag now i also like a colt commander in .45 acp. in rifles i buy cheap but what is cheap?im not going to purchase a kimber nor a weatherby. to much cash for a gret rifle and if it has that great looking barrel etching and the stock engraving why bother?i would probably be looking for anything that would scratch the rifle and harm the wood instead of hunting.i buy remington with the carbolite stock i have a few in the 700bdl and i dont have to be worried about marring the finish or scrstching the stock.a new custom stock for a 700BDL in the .300 magnum is roughly 359.00 but you add s/h to it will be over 400 bucks.this is a price from cabelas
691986
it uses a barrel made for it.  check the threads if you wish to change it
800415
What you need is to get a worm (looks like a corkscrew) to attatch to your ramrod. Work the worm into the ball/bullet and pull the bullet out the bore. \n\nIt is hard to believe that a lead bullet or a saboted jacketed pistol bullet could rust in place in a rilfe. \n\nMAKE SURE that the primer/cap is off your rifle before you try to pull the bullet. \n\nGood luck.
1163315
1. MAKE SURE YOUR PISTOL IS UNLOADED!  \nI can't stress this enough.  \nRemove the magazine and retract the slide to ensure \nthe chamber is clear.  \n  \n2. Disassemble the pistol according to the owner's manual. \n I can't help you much here. If you don't know the proper procedure  \ninvolved, you should probably stop reading right now and search the \nInternet, or post a query to the rec.guns newsgroup.\n  \n  \n3. Place a few drops of solvent into the breech end of the barrel. \nFor this purpose you can see I'm using BreakFree CLP.  \n  \n4. Insert the bore brush from the breech end and brush out the \nbarrel. \nAccording to some, this is where the greatest potential for damaging  \nyour barrel occurs.  Be sure to keep the sides of the cleaning rod from  \ntouching the inside of the barrel.  Always start the brush into the barrel \nfrom the breech (chamber) end.  Also, avoid touching the crown of the \nmuzzle with the cleaning rod.  Some people are so concerned with  \ndamaging the muzzle crown that don't pull the brush back  \nthrough from the muzzle end -- they unscrew the brush, remove the  \nrod, and reassemble the rod and brush for another pass through the  \nbore.  Personally, I don't bother with that level of caution, since I  \nfeel that by the time my practices damage the crown my gun will  \nhave bigger problems at that pont. \n\nAnyway, make several passes through the bore, until you feel the  \nfouling has been removed. \n  \n  \n5. Run patches through the bore.  \nPlace a clean patch on your jag, wet with solvent, and pass it  \nthrough the bore.  This will remove the crud you've just loosened with  \nyour brushing.  \n\nRepeat with another clean, solvent-soaked patch, and then \nrun a dry, clean patch through the bore.  Inspect the barrel for remaining \nfouling (dark smears along the rifling).  If necessary, repeat Steps 3-5. \n\nWhen cleaned to your satisfaction, run a lightly oiled patch through the \nbarrel, followed by a clean dry patch.  If you're using CLP or Ed's Red,  \ndon't bother; there's already an oily film in the bore for corrosion protection.\n  \n  \n6. Clean the slide.  \nUsing a solvent-soaked patch, rag, or toothbrush, clean the fouling and any  \nsmeared oil off the inside and outside of the slide.  Pay special attention to  \nthe following  areas: locking lug grooves (if any), muzzle end of slide (where \nbarrel tip moves inside the slide), breech face (where firing pin hole is), and  \nunderneath the extractor, a particularly common place for gunk to collect -- \nand cause problems.  In the second image to the right, I indicate the area \nunder the extractor.  I like to use a toothpick to clear out the often hardened \nlead and powder fouling from this area. \n\nAlso, don't forget the grooves where the slide fits the frame -- you want to  \ndefinitely remove any grit or oily sludge from this area.\n  \n  \n7. Clean the frame.  \nAgain, remove any fouling or caked-on carbon you find.  Pay extra  \nattention to the area where the barrel locking lugs fit into the frame \n(usually right ahead of the trigger area),  as well as the slide rails which \nwill likely contain an oily or gritty sludge.  Get a handful of Q-tips if  \nnecessary.  Don't forget the bottom of the magazine well.\n  \n  \n8.  Lubricate according to manufacturer's recommendations. \nRefer to your owner's manual for recommended lubrication points.  If  \nyou don't have a manual, here's what I generally do:  \n\n1) very lightly oil the moving parts of the trigger and hammer assemblies,  \nand any other moving internal parts (be sure to wipe away excess) \n\n2) lightly oil or grease the surfaces of the slide rail areas on the slide and  \nframe,  \n\n3) lightly oil or grease the locking lug area (ahead of the ejection port), cycle \nthe slide, and wipe off any excess (see first photo to right) \n\n4) lightly wipe the exterior surfaces with an oily patch o
352464
just look at where the barrel is connected and the brand of your marker.  you will be able to tell what stuff you can use on the gun from that
355876
i'm sorry that u even heard the name of that gun.\nit is a peice pf poop.\n\nu should go for somethign like a tippmann or an autococker
527257
.40S&W uses a Small Pistol Primer. Large won't fit; anyone who has read a reloading manual or actually seen a .40 primer pocket would know that.
1079826
Really there a lot of choices Weatherby and Browning are two. I always wanted an Over/Under. What I would do is look for a Dependable Brand and then my main concern be the Scroll Work and How the Wood look. For me, I just get a 20 Ga. they a good light gun and not a lot of Recoil. Many want the Bigger and that fine. But, really look and shop for this gun. Then you have a good dependable gun that looks good and the Wood be one of a kind.
598571
i use CB caps for what you are doing.  it's a regular long rifle case with just primer and a smaller bullet.  CCI makes them, and i bought a brick from cabelas.  it shoots a 20 grain bullet at about 900 fps, no noise either.  i can hear the hammer fall.
852126
put the wamadet in the watsname while its reloading press the thingmajig when it starts swagging hit the jiggerypocky button if that dont work get the manual no need to email me for any thanks my pleasure
1102471
Just write or email Guns and Ammo magazine..... the should be able to give you more info based upon the serial number.  Hope this helps.
790570
Bound's hubby here:\n\nMany different people have different views on "how to break-in a rifle". There are some that suggest that after you shoot 2 or 3 shots through the barrel, that you thoroughly clean the barrel, and keep repeating this process for 200 or 300 shots. Personally, this is not how I do it. \n\nI know that every rifle (or pistol) is proof-fired with one round and sometimes with a full clip or magazine ... and not usually cleaned before it leaves the factory. What I do is to thoroughly clean the arm of cosmoline, then I clean all of the minute parts. When I clean the barrel, I do not use a cleaning kit take down cleaning rod, I use a one piece vinyl coated cleaning rod. (Take down rods can collect grit between the sections which will mar the rifling). \n\nI then take the rifle out and start shooting, maybe a box or two to settle the action and to zero the rifle. For me, my range is not close to my home, so I like to maximize my range time! I have found no adverse effects to barrel life with the way I care for my barrels!\n\nGood luck!
944249
you turn the right rotater cuff and if that dnt work look down the barrel and pull the trigger to see the problem
961487
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThe condition you describe suggests that the vent ... the channel in the nipple is blocked. use some fine piano wire, then a thicker piece of wire, to clean the vent. Fire from the cap/primer is not reaching the chamber!\n\nGood luck!
49070
1. Inspect the barrel to insure it is clean and empty.  If recently fired, wait several minutes before firing again.  It is best to “swab” the bore with a damp sponge.  You want to be 100% certain no live ambers are in the barrel before loading it again. \n   2. Insert a 6-inch piece of fuse all the way into the vent hole and bend it at the top so it is perpendicular to the hole (at least 4 inches of fuse should be exposed) .  This insures that a spark doesn’t pre-ignite the powder in the barrel. \n   3. Determine the correct amount of black powder to use based on the bore diameter of your cannon (chart below).  You can always use less!  A small amount of black powder (thimble full) produces a boom!  Use only fg or ffg black powder.\n   4. Pour the powder into the barrel, or if using the foil pouch method, making sure the powder is all the way back in the bore.  A wooden ramrod works well.  It is not necessary to “pack” the powder.  Keeping it confined is the objective.\n   5. Wading is not necessary for blank loads, if desired, a small amount of waded, dry paper can be used.  Make a ball and push it all the way back against the powder charge.\n   6. Never “double load” a barrel.   Use only 1 powder charge, 1 piece of wading.\n   7. Check around the cannon area making certain it is clear.  Announce that the cannon is to be fired.\n   8. Light the fuse and retreat.  A 6 inch standard fuse gives you about 10 seconds to get away.
479990
I've always just used lots of hot soapy water (dawn dishwashing liquid). Of course, you have to get it really dry afterwards. I also drilled out my nipple to 1/16th inch. and I always use a pipe cleaner to clean out the tunnel from the nipple to the inside firing chamber. I'm not sure what you would need to do if you had a flintlock. I've never had one of those. Mine is a T/C .50 cal Hawkins. I've never had a misfire with it.