i want to know how to setting out for the culvert and whats the procedures?
823548
First, you'll want to establish the starting grade, or the highest point the culvert will be at.  It should not be set lower than the grade of the ditch, or else it will fill in to the ditch level.  It should slope fairly rapidly to clear water and silt from it.  A suitable slope will be at least 1/4 inch per foot.  The best way to describe it is, if you took a string and stretched it between the bottom of the starting ditch to the bottom of the ending ditch, the line should be straight and should go downhill, and the dirt level in the excavation should match.\n\nThe grade shoulld be established and compacted prior to laying the culvert in the excavated ditch.  It will be backfilled with native material and compacted in 6 inch layers (lifts) or less.  Compaction should be about that of the native undisturbed soil (unless very heavy equipment will be crossing it, the you should consult with the culvert supplier about necessary precautions to handle that load).  It is important to get loose dirt in around the bottom of the culvert where it is difficult to get to because of the radius.  This is best done by hand and shovel.\n\nBe sure that the compacted material is cohesive enough to prevent water from flowing through it in flood conditions.  The major cause of failure is not getting the dirt compacted enough, and a heavy rain backs up the culvert, and the runoff washes through around the culvert, causing erosion and failure under load.  If this is a potential problem, reinforce the fill with a suitable aggregate material or binder.  A jag of concrete on the uphill end will help too.\n\nYour local municipality may have regulations regarding installing a culvert based on your local soil conditions, so it is best to check with them first.
826815
Conduit Bender. Take the measurements, allow for the arch, and bend.
796133
Try this. It's a tutorial on how to do one (below).
263688
Get some metal and weld it all together, some wheels, some tires, a couple pieces of rubber for handle bars and pedals, a few feet of chain, and a wicker basket for the front and you're set. =) Oh and a cushion for a seat...don't want to forget the seat. Ouch... =)
481180
You can order one from numerous sources, Kellyco, several sources in the GPAA's Gold Prospectors magazine or build one yourself, it's fairly simple and there are several online sites that have instructions for this.\n Lots of luck with your sluicing, hope your riffles are filled with gold.
1166093
If i'm not mistaken:\n\nGet PCP pipe\nCut out a 3 inch piece\nPut it on your index finger\nSLIDE AWAY!!!!
292435
use trusses. basically triangles. if u wanna do it easily, use 45 degree angles. to make it more stable use 30 and 60 degree angles. so basically make each side first and then to connect between them, i have no clue but dont do it straight across. u have to connect the top of the left to the bottom of the right. o rsomethin
81235
If it's just a school project, you might try pumping it or simply use a bucket. It depends on how large your model and pocket are.\nIn actual aqueducts, the water is already at a higher level (like a mountain spring or lake) so I think it would be fair to replicate that situation.
216556
The water must be given as initial push to go uphill. Once the flow is established, siphoning can occur.
255459
Not enough info to answer this question.\n\nAre the anchors of the arch at the same level as the pipeline, do they start below the pipeling and arc over?\nHow wide is the pipe?\nAre the cables attached to the top of the pipe, or the bottom?\nIs the arch a perfect semi-circle, or something more olipticle?\nWhat's the thickness of the arch?\nIs the cable attached to the top of the bottom of the arch?\nIs the lower span of the arch, from anchor to anchor, the same distance as the span of the pipeline (20 meters)?\n\nAlso, pipelines across spans rarely need any sort of support, let alone a cabled arch. If support IS needed, then one would use a truss, not an Arch.
963866
Cover one end of your garden hose with clear plastic (like Saran Wrap) and wrap rubber bands around it to hold the plastic in place.  Then remove your garden hose from the faucet and cover the faucet end of the garden hose with plastic wrap and use rubber bands to hold that in place as well.  Lay down the garden hose over a relatively flat area of the ground where you wish to determine level elevation.  Then look at each end for air bubbles.  (Make sure the garden hose isn't draped over a hill, or this procedure won't help.)\n\nIf you find air bubbles at one end of the hose, it means that end is at a higher elevation than the other.  Move the bubble end of the garden hose, without moving the other end until the bubbles leave the plastic.  Then check the other end of the garden hose.  If you find bubbles, move that end only until the bubbles leave the plastic.  \n\nRepeat this procedure until you don't see bubbles at either end.  That is when the ground is level along the length of the garden hose.
371610
try this site http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/
391001
Step-by-step instructions.\nhttp://wrec600.com/format.htm
448870
The best way to stop erosion is to install a drainage system (if its water erosion) to give the water a planned path away and not take soil with it. Some ways you can do this are with gravel (broken up cinder blocks work well) or with PVC pipe. The biggest thing that will help with both of these is to have a plan so your drain system wont get clogged. If you get clogs you're back to having erosion
1077336
there are a few diff ways for this.  the way i do it is with a rotating lazer level. you can rent them at most rental places, another way is with a transit/builders level but if you dont know how...you will be lost cause you wont know how to read it. or the cheap and easy way.   get some clear plastic hose hold the ends up and fill it with water. create a "benchmark". use a post or somthing else you can tie it to and walk away without spilling. on the other end make a leg for you to rest it on roughley as high as the post. now as you move around you can see if it isflat by marking the level in the tube cause water will seek its own level. i prob left out some things in the explanition but im sure you will pick it up.....it was good enough for the romans and it can work for you.
837600
If its during the construction phase of a project or during a remodel, it is also very easy to fix.  Usually, plumbing to a toilt or sink come up from the crawl space, floor slab, or basement.  insteading placing an elbow and turning out the wall, you place an in-line "tee".  The branch of the tee goes out the wall to the stop cock and then on to the toilet or sink.  on the top of the tee still in the wall, place 6 or 8 inches of pipe and cap off the top of it.  this too will cause an air pocket to dampen the effects of sudden changes in flow.
148544
check out www.creonline.com great info look in the how-to section, many articles