How do I hold wheelie on my dirtbike?
825445
you have to give it alot of gas at first to get it pop up. then use your body to help keep balance, but also use the throttle a little. give it a little gas if you feel the front end going down. dont kick the gas too hard, if you do you'll fall backwards, and that will hurt.
1114185
http://bikeflat.com or ask me. i can tell u how to do some tricks.
115869
Breats?????\n\nBuy a copy of dirt wheels magazine. It's FILLED with ads for that stuff.
587969
just keep practising. you will slowly get more used to it. find new ways to push the envelope. a tricky one is to turn somewhat tightly when going at a decent rate. you shift your weight to the right petal and lean the bike over. if you can get your speed and turning right, you may be able to touch your handle bar to the ground while your moving. i can get it down to about 6 inches. wee!
556481
www.nosewheelie.com might help.
607417
you can pin it to the frame and wind it around the axle by pulling it backwards, you can use the "propeller" method. basically a balsawood plane with wheels and no wings. Or you can use the rubber band as a slingshot any of these will propell the car up hill or otherwise\n\n Well...\nFrom the materials list alone, it's clear that this is a "professional grade"\nrubber band project. The #107 rubber band is a 5/8" x 7" size, which can\nstore quite a bit of energy. And you'll need it, since you're climbing a\n16 foot ramp with a load. I'm not sure exactly how you "pick up" a 50 gram\nload, but I'll assume that it's suspended over the track so that you don't\nrequire a mechanism to grab it, just drive under and it falls onto the tractor.\n\n\nThe problem then is that you need to balance your gear ratio against the\nweight you have to carry. At the start, you can afford a higher gear ratio\nbecause you don't have much to carry. As you move, you need to "gear down"\nto pull the heavier load. If you just gear it low to start with, you may not\nhave enough travel distance to make it to the end. If you gear too high,\nyou won't be able to pull the heavy load near the end.\n\n\nI'd look hard at a stepped-drum variable transmission. If your drive axle\nhas a series of stepped drive drums, with the smallest unwinding first, then\nyou have a high gear ratio for the first stage that goes far enough to pick\nup the first weight. It then steps up to *just enough* bigger that it can pull\nthe weight, and continues to the second step. Another step up just before\npicking up the next weight, and so on until you reach the end. You use up\nmore rubber band travel at the lower gears near the end, but you've saved\nthe travel during the early part of the pull.\n\n\nI'm thinking that your four feet of string will suffice for the drive system,\nso long as you can can stretch the rubber bands from a support at a distance.\nYou should measure the maximum stretch you can get from a rubber band, and\nfigure from that how much string to use, then use that to derive the drum\nsizes, then take *that* and work out the wheel diameter. If you get a choice\nof "string", I like 90lb test braided dacron fishing line. It's light, easy\nto work with, and much less lossy than cotton string. One option might be\na "boom-style" string puller, with the string attached to the end of a rod\nthat pivots at one end, and the rubber bands anchored to a sturdy structure\nthat pulls the rod. You can vary the attachment points of string and rubber\nbands to get the best balance of pulling force and stroke length, but you\nneed to make sure there won't be overhead obstructions on the track.\n\n\nEfficiency is important; do the best you can to make things smooth, be\nsure there's no binding in your bearings, and look hard at energy losses\nthroughout the system. This is an energy-management problem really, and\nyour task is to take a limited energy supply from the rubber band and spend\nit wisely to *just* achieve the goal. If you can, design your rubber band\nanchor so it can be adjusted, and do your prototype test runs with the\nband stretched to about 70% capacity. That gives you some margin for\nvariables, when the real test comes.\n\n\nHere's a pick of a simple design http://www.balloonhq.com/balloon_car/27.html, here's another pic http://www.plumcreekmarketing.com/07science/01images/fullsize/164304.jpg and another pic http://www.marshall.edu/lego/ati/ATI_LEGO2.htm
951359
The simplest and least expensive way is to drop the forks a bit (that is, raise them in the triple clamps), increase the rear spring pre-load, and shave some foam off the seat.  However, those suspension mods will affect handling (sharper steering and stiffer shock action) -- but that might be okay for a learner (if she's not going very fast).\n\nThe next step up is to take your suspension (front and back) to a motorcycle suspension shop where they may be able to reduce the effective ride height of the forks and put a shorter shaft on the shock.  However, I'm not sure that's possible with the stock shock on a TTR230...  Those mods are somewhat pricey though.\n\nYou can also look into lowering linkages for TTR's, though I haven't seen them myself.
406966
Let the club heads soak in some soap and water for few minutes, then the dirt will come us with little effort.  You can use a brush if needed.  The rubber grips - soap, water, and soft brush and dry.  Grips will feel like new.
369321
you'll need to make the adjustment at the rear derailler.\n\nHowever, best advice, take it to a bike shop and ask them to show you. once you learn you will save big $$$$$.\n\n(Basic rule is, when standing directly behind the bike, looking at the derailer adjustment knob. a right turn will adjust the derailer down, a left turn will adjust it up......figure out which way your gear changes are missing, ie up shift or downshift. adjust incrementally until the gear 'just' changes....that should see you right)...good luck!
574316
Don't! \n\n.... or you'll be finding the money for a new wheel and a new freewheel!\n\nGo to a bike shop - they may do it for free or for the price of a coffee.
710280
--Put the chain back on the quad.\n--Apply the R brake - that will keep the F sprocket from turning.
695942
first of all, AWSOME BIKE. I have one of those....dont put pegs on it whatever you do or you will break the axle..its a dirt jumping bike, not for freestyle. Expensive upgrades are the lightest...heres the cheapest ways...first, remove the plastic chain guard if it has one, second, get light weight tires, third, get lighter cranks, fourth, get lighter rims or build your own, (i build my own bikes) fifth, remove any reflectors, they are pointless, anything you see on the bike that can be removed and still make the bike work.....i have about $500 worth of upgrades on my 07 X1
593478
Remove the tyre and inner tube. \n\nSaw through the rim. Take a large mallet and gradually bash away until the rim is one long straight piece.\n\nJob done - but I can't think why you'd want to do this ....
1112602
You can buy a trainer that attaches in place of the wheel so you can spin without going anywhere.\n\nCheck the website for Performance Cycle (or maybe it's Performance Bicycle?)  That's where I bought one for my ex.
15603
I believe you just have to take slack out of governer spring.I think on those as you pull the throttle it has a certain tension then the sping just streches. Elimenate the spring strech with a plastic tie strap.\nBill
113140
need to get started in dirt or get a ride in dirt or asphalt modifieds and finish well from there
955906
You take the weight of the vehicle and find its CG (center of gravity).  Get the distance from the CG to the power wheel. That is the moment arm.  You must have enough torque to overcome the weight times the moment arm.\nThis is a simplified explanation, as I am not getting into mass and gravity.