what is induction heating?
815430
"Induction heating is the process of heating a metal object by electromagnetic induction, where eddy currents are generated within the metal and resistance leads to Joule heating of the metal. An induction heater (for any process) consists of an electromagnet, through which a high-frequency AC is passed. Heat may also be generated by magnetic hysteresis losses."\n\nThis and much more info is available on the free, online encyclopedia, Wikipedia:\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_heating\n\nHope this helps!
297024
Nichrome (Nickel Chrome) wire is one of the more common alloys used as a heating element wire.\n\nIn a way it is correct that the higher the resistance, the more heat that will be generated.  Looking at Ohm's law, V = I * R and P = I * V.   P being power, which in a resistor is exhibited as heat.  P = I^2  * R  or P = V^2 / R\n\nWhat this is saying is that while although more resistance will produce more heat, you will also need to increase the voltage (which will increase the current) to get that heat.  So, more resistance is not the simple answer, you need to match the resistance with your electrical supply capabilities to optimize the heat output.\n\nIt would probably would be better to figure that the more current flowing through the resistor, the more resulting heat you will get.\n\nAs far as wire goes, a smaller diameter wire will have a higher resistance, and will get hotter using less current.  A larger wire will have a lower resistance and require more current to get as hot as the smaller wire.  But, again referring back to Ohm's law, the overall heat exhibited will be the result of figuring the power output for the wire (voltage multiplied by current).  The larger wire will be capable of a higher power output before it surcumbs to the heat and melts because it can carry a higher current.\n\nFor the sake of comparison, let's say that we have a short piece of thin wire and a longer piece of thick wire.  Because of the difference in lengths, they will have the same resistance.  If they are both subjected to the same electrical power supply (same volts, same amps), they will both produce the SAME amount of heat.  The smaller wire will have a higher heat DENSITY because it needs to produce the same thermal energy over a smaller area.  It will appear hotter because of this.  But, if both were used to heat water, they would in theory do exactly the same thing.
485074
We convert AC-DC but why (or how) would you convert AC-AC? At the most there may be a half wave or full wave rectifier but that has nothing to do with induction. I sure can't understand your question.
70171
have you ever tried to pick up a hot pan on the stove by the metal handle, and burned yourself? That's thermal conduction. Similarly, pour a cup of hot coffee and try to pick it up by the cup, not the handle. It's too hot to touch. That's thermal conduction.
112707
Why is this in Math?\n\nThere is a plastic or metal casing.  Inside there is a heating element, fan (usually variable speed), some wiring and a guard to keep your fingers away from the inner workings.
384502
Conductive heat or objects that conduct heat....  These are things that have the properties to burn.  ex: a house on fire, is considered a conductor.\n\nThe heat comming off that building is called radiant heat and the house next door that is steaming because water was spraied on it is called convection heat.\n\nMore simple would be if you turn on yourstove top, the fire or the red heat coil (electric stove) is the conductor or is conduction heat,  the heat you feel comming off the burner is radiant heat and when youturn off the burner the heat that is left , that if you touch you  get burnt is convection heat.
240485
It could potentially be both depending how the substance is heated [and let is not forget about radiation].\n\nIf the heating element is at the bottom, some of the heat is obviously transfered to the gas/liquid through conduction, but afterward, convection currents form to transfer heat more effectively.\nIf the heating element is at the top on the other hand, convection currents wont form quite as much and you must rely much more heavily on conduction to transfer the heat.  A similar situation occurs if you have the heating element on the side, in the middle of the gas/liquid.\n\nhttp://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/heatra.html
252829
what's the heat source?
113735
Convection. EXAMPLES: If you think about a pot of water that is heated on a stove, the stove burner heats the bottom of the pot by conduction. Water touching the bottom of the pot is also heated by conduction. As this water is heated, it expands and becomes less dense than the cooler, denser water that is above it. The cooler, denser water at the top of the pot sinks and pushes the hot, less dense water upward. As the hot, less dense water rises, its particles come in contact with colder water particles, so it gives up heat energy to the lower temperature water particles with which it collides. That is, it cools by conduction. As it cools it "contracts" and becomes denser, causing it to drop toward the bottom of the pot again, forcing the warmer water below it to rise. This movement causes convection currents. These currents transfer thermal energy from warmer to cooler parts of the liquid.
160047
Basically, an inductor (aka coil) is a device that stores magnetic field energy.  The equation for energy storage is 1/2*L*I^2, where L= inducatance of the coil and I = current.  The definition comes from Electromagnetic Field Theory and relates stored Magnetic Field Energy in an Electromagnetic Field to stored energy in a circuit element.\n\nI'm assuming that you're talking about resonance between a capacitor and an inductor. Basically, they will share energy back and forth between the two elements at the so-called "resonant frequency" or 1/(2*pi*sqrt(L*C)) where "sqrt" means square root. In a lossless circuit this "resonance" would go on forever, but real resistances in the circuit contribute an exponential damping that eventually causes the amplitude of the resonance to go to zero.
248011
It's called superheating. I don't quite understand it myself.
561416
Preheating is not necessary unless there is a risk of porosity from moisture condensation.\n\nNo pre-heat is required on inconel® or stainless products.
26591
FARADAYS LAW of ELECTROMAGNETIC INDUCTION\nElectromagnetic Induction, in electricity, the name given to the production of an electromotive force (emf) across the ends of a conductor, such as a wire, when it experiences a changing magnetic field (see Magnetism). This effect was discovered independently by the British physicist Michael Faraday and the American physicist Joseph Henry.
789964
The best way I know how to do it is through electrolysis.  I don't think just heating it up will work; that will just cause the water to boil.
207200
I found a couple of sites listed below maybe one of these will help you out.\n\nhttp://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/hv/classic/classic.html\n\nhttp://spazioinwind.libero.it/gabinetto_di_fisica/elmag/elmaginduction.htm#modrocchetto\n\nhttp://physics.kenyon.edu/EarlyApparatus/Electricity/Induction_Coil/Induction_Coil.html
553986
When I was about 10 years old I tried to heat up a metal rod on the coils of a 2kW electric radiator. I vaguely remember that a moment passed and then wham! I was thrown back so hard I toppled the settee behind me.\n\nSurprisingly I suffered no other ill-effects, not even a burnt thumb and forefinger.\n\nElectricity is dangerous stuff.\n\nIt was an interesting experience, not to be repeated.
715375
Some heating elements are live, and some are not. Wire heating elements (in some electric kettles) are live, so it is not a good idea to touch them or stick your finger in the water that they are heating! I will describe the other type of heating elements as "tube" type heating elements. This is the type you often find in ovens and in some electric kettles. This type has the live wire running down the centre of a metal tube, however there is an insulator inside the tube between the wire and the outer metal tube. These are safe to touch as long as there is no fault in the element and as long as you don't mind getting burnt!!\n\nThe other point to make is that one end of the element is "live" while the other end is "neutral", or very close to "earth" potential. So, for the wire elements, it depends where you touch it as to whether you will be electrocuted.