what is the standover height for trek bicycles, and how do i figure it out?
813099
from the top tube to  the ground...for road you should be minimum 1" away (inseam) for mountain ideally 2"
551577
probably around 15"-20"  If you want ups, start doin Plyometrics and work on your calves
512757
Make sure the bike is the right size for you and is the right kind you want (mountain bike/hybrid/racing bike) - if it's the right size it'll be fine, it may not be exactly what you want but you will be able to use it with no problems. http://www.oklahomabicyclesociety.com/hintstips/bikefit.htm this page has some good info on what bike size to go for. "Multiply your inseam by .883 to get the distance from the center of the crank spindle to the top of the saddle measured along the line of the seat tube."
1099013
well, since your other question dealt with threaded vs. threadless steerers, I'll assume you're not talking about new technology.\n\nA lot of the time, bike types are referred to by the diameter of the wheels, 20" bike is a standard BMX type, for instance.  26" used to be a fairly popular size for '10 speed' road bikes.\n\nA 66 cm bicycle frame is HUGE, most manufacturers standard sizes stop at around 60-62cm.\n\nThe way to find out what size your frame is would be to take a tape measure and find the distance between the middle of the crank axle and the middle of the seat tube/top tube junction on a standard diamond farme.  Basically, you're measuring the length of the seat tube.  For more information, refer to the website below.
310877
There are more variables than you might believe involved with a good fit, not just height.\n\nCall your local bike shops and ask if they offer a professional fitting service.  Expect to pay $15 and up if you don't buy a bike from them.  Could save you many bucks trying to correct a mistake.\n\nHere is what the shop i frequent uses:\n\nOur technicians use the FitKit, the Salsa Size-O-Matic Stem system, and the Cyclemetrics FitStik fitting tools as well as our years of experience addressing a variety of cyclists’ needs and fit requirements.
736746
I do not know, but check out this link, other people have reviewed them already!\n\nhttp://www.mtbr.com/reviews/manufacturers/8465/\n\nThat is, if the site is working fully.
638178
It will depend on what type of bike and what type of riding you plan to do. Is it a road bike or a mountain bike, or maybe a bmx? \n\nAlso, the manufacturers may have slightly different methods of measuring their bikes. What is 19" from one manufacturer may be 18.5" from another. \n\nThe best thing to do would be to go into a dealers shop and ask them. (Don't buy from wal-mart or sears etc.) They have tools that will help determine the best size and fit. Then take some bikes for a test ride, see how they feel.
257243
Try this link:\n\nhttp://www.biketiresdirect.com/categories.asp?cat=ti&tnum=147887&c=197068
631096
There is no standard height of rail flat cars, although the deck of a typical flat car in the U.S. is about 4 feet above the top of the rail.  The height of each type of flat car largely depends on the commodity it was designed to carry.  Depressed center flat cars have a very low deck height (http://www.vistadome.com/trains/rs/dodx39831.jpg ), while the deck of flat cars used to ship general freight are somewhat higher (http://freight.railfan.ca/ttx/ttpx81586.jpg).\n\nThe maximum height of a flat car would depend on the routing of the car.  Perhaps the tallest of flat cars are those equipped with auto racks for vehicle shipments.  A typical bi-level flat (used to ship vans and SUV's) rides  20' 2" above the top of the rail.  Some mainline routes in the US are not capable of handling these excessive height cars, although several railroads have programs to increase their clearances on these routes.
1118213
The rear derailleur looks like a Tourney or C-50 mega range rapid rise. The bolt on type not the hanger type. It's had to say from the pic. It would've been nice to see the bike specs which would've told you. Your best bet would be to contact them and ask which one they used on the bike. Ball park price on a replacement 20-30 bucks.
12744
You made an excelent question, and often an overlooked factor when buying a bicycle.\n\nAs a rule of thumb never buy a serious bike at a departament store, always go to a local bike shop, where you will get great advise.\n\nThe most important measures when buying a bike are\n\n1.- Frame size. There should be 1 or 2 inches between your crotch and the top tube. A longer top tube will give you more stability.\n\n2.- Saddle height. Your leg should be slightly bent while sitting on the saddle and the pedal is at the lowest.\n\n3.- Handlebar Height/lenght. Depending on what you want to do, your handle bar could be 1 or 2 inches below the saddle (mostly MTB and race bikes) or even with the saddle ( touring ) - A short stem will gove you better handling.\n\n4.- Saddle. Once again it will be determined by your riding style, you should find the center of gravity for your riding\n\nThere are a lot of internet sites that could help you make a decision, I suggest you read more on the subject and most important, go to a local bike shop where you will get expert advice.
936145
Jawa is wrong.  Mirra does not ride for Haro anymore, he quit a few months ago and started his own company (inovatively called MirraCo).  Trek are a mountain bike company, as are the other one he mentioned.\n\nDon't buy anything with Mirra's name on it, he is a complete nob and is all about himself and cares nothing about anyone else.\n\nWhat kind of style is your son riding? I guess it willl be street and parks, but ask him, and also take him to have a look at the bikes you shortlist as bein gwithin your price range.  If you get the list before you go, he won;t run up to a bike with a 500 dollar price tag and say i want that one.  Once you have the list, take him to a shop and try him out on them to see which he feels comfortable on.  Each frame hasa different feel due to different angles and length tubes being used in the frame, and also the parts that are used on them.\n\nThe most important thing on a complete is the frame.  For 250 dollars, you will definitely want a 100% cromoly frame and forks.  Don't buy anything with less, even if it looks like a good deal. \n\nFor 250 dollars, you may not get all that much, but it is probably enough to get a decent enough frame and forks package.  In all honesty, the parts you will get on a 250 dollar bike are not going to be all that great, so resale value will be low.  You will not get all you want for 250 dollars (although the integral slauson is pretty damn close), so you may have to have a flexible wants list or up the price a little.\n\nTo get more for your money, have a look at last year's bikes.  I know that it is less cool than havin g abang up to date bike, but you will get a better bike for the money, even though it is last year's stuff.\n\nI would have a look at Eastern.  In fact, if your son wants to upgrade the stock, you can buy him the Eastern and then (if you;re in the U.S. return the frame and upgrade it for one of their non-stock frames for a tiny amount of money).\n\nThis year's Easterns are amazing, and in fact if you look at the element, alot of the stock stuff on their complete your son ill want to keep. The sprocket is a proper Eastern Medusa for example.\n\nhttp://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=BIKES&show=Eastern\n\nThey look pretty expensive on that site though.  Have alook around for cheaper.\n\nYou could save even more money by looking at last year's (2006) bikes as they are on sale now.  I have a 06 Element, which apart from giving me a load of grieve because it is cursed (nothing to do with the quality of the bike) is amazing.\n\nUm, mongoose are always favourites, and they use SNAFU parts which your son will be able to sell off more eaily.\nwww.mongoose.com/\n\n\nIntegral make some pretty damn cool bikes, but these are over your price range. On the other hand, they again use lots of aftermarket pats that your son may want to keep.  and even if he doesn;t cna sell off more easily. The Slauson is about 260 dollars from Dan's Comp: \n\nhttp://www.danscomp.com/101531.php?cat=BIKES\n\nIn all honesty, i htink I would go for this one.\n\nI've been looking at the new diamond backs, and the highest end ones are really something, with all the new faddy stuff like integral headsets, and sealed mid bbs (how good are completes getting?!).\n\nDK are always a favourite but i think Easterns are generally cheaper for the samebasic stuff.\nhttp://www.danscomp.com/products.php?cat=BIKES&show=DK\n\nWethepeople are generally considered as having the best street completes out at the moment and with people like Terada (i tthink he still rides for them) with them, it' no surprise why.\n\nHoffman are always recommened, but i think that they are overpriced for what you get.  I bought my element last year for 250 GBP, and my friend bought a hoffman for 400.  My bike had a way better spec than his, and he constantly asks me to swap bikes with him when we ride, even though mine was way cheaper than his.  They do have a few bikes for your pr
446581
Best way to do it is to go to a bike shop and they are always willing to assist with questions. Try a few different bikes and find out which one is most comfortable. \n\nMake sure you figure out the (ask them) the 'frame size', 'wheel size' (Most are 26") and possibly the style of frame (eg. XC).\n\nThen you have an idea of what bike suits you and you can start looking for a 2nd hand one to purchase.
490054
7 inches and up ?\n\n(That disqualifies me, lol)
1182056
there is not a rule, but standard is 8 to 10 feet tall and half and inch around
608669
the serial number is usually on the frame near the back wheel, right around where the rear gears are attached.  Some bikes may put it on the main bar up near the handlbars also.
434550
I can find no exact measurement but will include some links for research. Best I can do hope that helps