how would inner tubes with double resistant force profit my bicycle? speed?
822673
The only advantage is improved flat resistance.\n\nThe heavier tubes will increase rotating mass and actually make your bicycle performance lower, making it more difficult to gain and maintain speed.
133
I'd agree with TaraN's answer. Take the time to really find what you want. Take a lot of extended test rides. You might find that aluminum might be too harsh for you, in which case you might find that steel or carbon might be more comfortable. That's just one example. Lots of test rides will give you a feel for how the various bikes at a given price point can handle very differently. Without getting into too much tech-speak, you might find that one bike handles a bit more twitchy than another. Think of the difference as driving a Mini Cooper versus a basic sedan. Some bikes are set up more for racing, where you'll get a quicker handling bike, whereas others will handle a bit more laid back.\n\nParts wise, you'll find the same component offerings on many of the manufacturers out there for a given price point, as TaraN pointed out. You'll most likely be getting a bike with Shimano componenets, with perhaps a mix of some of the manufacturer's own branded components (for example, Trek outfits their bikes with a lot of Bontrager componentry).\n\nFocus on the overall ride of the bike. For a $1000, you can get a lot of bike.\n\nWade at The Spokesman in downtown Santa Cruz is a GREAT guy - very helpful, and yes, very patient. He's very knowledgeable and will set you up right.\n\nAlso in that same category, I'd highly recommend seeing Vance Sprock over at Cupertino Bike Shop. He's just like Wade - he'll set you up right.\n\nGood luck!
1077010
All I can think of...\nGravity (weight of bike + person), friction (of ground and all axles), pedal force (not constant because you are pushing on an arc), air resistance, inertia (this is why it gets easier to pedal once you get to constant speed), sprocket ratio, gyroscope effect (makes it easier to balance).
658825
Try a bike tube repair kit. It might work.
350704
air resistance.\n\n Do the experiment yourself- if at school- get a teacher to make up a sealed tube, suck out the air (less difficult than it sounds- i remember doing something like this) and then invert it. its very strange.
516599
This question is too vague.  But I can tell you that tires will make the biggest difference both cheaply and quickly.
968943
Many reasons:\n\n1. Too heavy (numero uno!)\n2. ZERO wet grip\n3. Would fly apart with the rotational inertia\n4. Go ahead- YOU try mounting them.\n5. A $50 pneumatic tire protects your $500 wheel from destruction.\n6. Horrible ride quality.\n\nSolid tires were tried over 120 years ago when the bicycle was invented.  A Frenchman named Dunlop created an air-filled tire, and it was SO MUCH better than a solid one that nobody in their right mind would ride anything else.
774740
You should probably get new tubes and also tires.  Just check the size on the sidewall of the tire and buy tubes to match.  If you are unsure of your tire/tube changing skills then take your bike to a dealer and have them do it for you.  You should also get an inspection/tune up while you're at it since you haven't ridden it for so long.
366820
I would use panniers.  The panniers should be evenly loaded front/rear and left/right.  A low rider front rack will help to increase stability by lowering the center of gravity.  This will also help to even out the load on the front and rear wheels.  At high speeds on a downhill, bikes will sometimes get a "shimmy" on the front if the back is loaded and the front is not.\n\nTrailers have some advantages (easier packing, quick attachment, low center of gravity).  On extended trips, the extra weight is usually not worth the tradeoffs.
482063
Use the bike that fits.  I would be inclined to set the pre-load on the suspension fork pretty high to minimize bounce while standing and climbing.  The only other disadvantage is the weight, but fit is definitely more important than weight.
702361
ok biker bike, here we go.\n\nacc.= g = 9.8 m/s2, (any object moving in air will have this acc. or retardation)\n\nb) we apply formula\ns=ut + 1/2at^2\nu=20\nt=4\ns=20*4 + 1/2 *9.8 *4*4\n  =158.4 m\n\nc) v=u + at\n  therefore, t= v-u/a\n                   =50-20/9.8\n                   =3 seconds (approx)
527885
You'll need a few supplies.\n\nDependable racks, front and back.\n\nPanniers, and if they're waterproof, put small holes in the bottom so that they let the water out.  \n\nKevlar touring tires--yes, with tread.  Try "Ruffy Tuffy" or Panaracer Pasela folding Tourguard.  28mm size recommended (actual is 26).  Plus one extra tire for a spare.     \n\nExtra inner tubes. (performance does well).\nA patch kit.  \n\nExtra brake pads.  Make it Kool Stop.\nIn fact, replace the existing brake pads with Kool Stop.   \n\nEvery size allen wrench that fits your bike.\nA screwdriver.\nPliers.\nAn alloy 6" adjustable wrench or a 15/13 cone wrench.\nA chain tool and some chain patch links.\nA few extra screws, such as the sort that holds your cables to your brakes and your cables to your derailers.\n\nSinger Sewing Machine Oil. . .because wax lube can't cut it for long distance.  The small plastic tube from the grocery store will last the entire trip.  It is not necessary to carry the metal can--just the small tube (looks like miniature toothpaste tube).  This fits into your under-seat tool pouch.  \n\nRags.  \n\nA bi-directional frame pump.\n\nA front fender. \n\nA very large bike that comes with tall handlebars. . .or the Delta Stem Riser plus an 80mm regular stem.  \n\nA Brooks B67S saddle or an Avenir comfort or a Pearson Magestic touring saddle or some nice wide thing without gel.  It is best to put pressure onto your sit bones than onto your soft tissues, and a wider saddle is vital for this purpose.  Pack some Proofide and a disposable shower cap if you use a leather touring saddle.  \nThe leather saddles alone can keep you from getting a rash because they keep you cool. . .well, they keep you cool if you apply only Proofide and nothing else.  Do take the leather saddles on several break in rides before starting out on your journey. Should you not weigh enough to break one in, see www.harriscyclery.com for an alternative method that is for emergency use only.  \n\nWhopping large pedals.  I mean huge!  Never mind the weight.  Get the very biggest and widest.  This can give you some variety on leg positioning and let you make that extra 90 mile push.  \n\nExtra water bottle attachment.\n\nA dynohub front wheel and the front and back lights. Be sure to get the "brushless" variety that does not drag.  \n\nA compass.  And, if you use that dandy little alloy compass black bell combination, be aware that each letter always points its direction--opposite of aircraft/automotive compasses.  At least it bolts on, is lightweight, and is always accessable.  \n\nA cheap rain parka.\n\nDo not go cross country cycling on an aluminum bike that is outfitted with a whopping long extension (factory standard) stem.  Even with the extraordinary protection offered by the Ruffy Tuffy/Panaracer tires, the aluminum bike's head tube will crack.  Replace the junk factory stem with an 80mm or 90mm extension model.  This will also take some force off of your wrists.  \n\nIf you're not riding a gearhub, such as the Rohloff, Sram I-Motion 9, Sprinter 7, or Nexus Premium 8, then you need to report to your bike shop for a demonstration on how to perform a rear derailer adjustment.  It goes something like: Adjust cable length until the center gears index-shift properly and then adjust the H and L screws to cause the first and last gears to index properly.  On that note, the 9 and 10 speed rear derailer shifting uses an extremely fragile chain; however, refitting to an 8 speed costs only a set of 8 speed shifters plus a rear cassette.  For gearhubs, use an inexpensive 7 speed chain (7.3mm), and for derailers (of 7 or 8 speeds rear), use a "stretch proof" 8 speed chain.  Do make sure that your bike is extraordinarily low geared.  Gearhubs can be outfitted with a larger sprocket for about $4 (not necessary for I9 or Rohloff).  Road bikes can be outfitted with a Deore rear derailer and a "mega range" (hill clim
1053010
On a bisic model there are some basic questions:\n\n1: What is the velosity the item is to achieve to produce the results your are after. \n\n2: What mass are you allowed in you deisgn, as shaft design will need to be considered. \n\n3. What materials can withstand the velosity, and yet maintain you mass variable. \n\n4. Diameter is dependent on velocity, material,\n\nas far as buliding it... you must consider the G factor...dependent upon weather it is earth bound or space bound.
285712
I have made and ridden motorcycles for 20yrs and the biggest factors with tyre sizes are stabilty from centrifugal force. Bikes with small wheels are unstable at higher speeds, they are inherently closer to destruction because at the same speed a smaller tyre is revolving faster. Tyres are critical on bikes. As a bike leans in to a corner, the tyre, because of it's shape or profile, increases in contact surface to counteract the amount of force pushing the bike to the outside of the corner. These forces get to a certain point before the bike will slide and crash. Things that affect the performance of this are, heat in the tyre, weight vs power vs tyre size, tyre profile, diameter, motorcycle geometry.\nBasically you do not change wheels or tyre shapes on a bike unless u are prepared for the consequences. Harleys may put really big tyres on but they are not performance orientated. \nAlmost all bikes these days have a 120/70 17inch front and depending on power a 160-200/55 17inch rear. Most bikes pre-1988 ran 18inch(or bigger) tyres. The simple reason for this is stability vs steerablity. 17inch is the best compromise. If you are designing a bike, stick with these sizes and work on suspension, geometry and weight distribution as they are more changeable. cheers Neil
1005994
In my opinion, there are lots of advantages, and few, if any, disadvantages in a compact road frame.  \n\nFirst off, you have more stand-over, so if you do have to step off your bike in a hurry, you run a slightly smaller chance of landing on the top tube.  Secondly, they're lighter.  Not by any large amount (we're talking grams here), since your seat post has to make up for connecting to a smaller frame, but there typically is a very small weight reduction.  Thirdly, they're stiffer, since all the tubes are shorter per a given size frame, which offers better acceleration and overall performance.  \n\nAnyhow, there's my two cents.
479902
an exercise bike or treadmill
1055875
Get thee to your local bike shop...  they will help you find the right wheels to help you ride safe!