how do i upgrade a electrical fuse panel to breaker panel,is it safe to pull the meter base.?
598882
If you have the know how you could do this yourself, but check with your house insurance and you'll probably find if there should be a fire at some point they would not be responsible for damages unless this electrical work was done by a licensed electrician. Good luck with your project
138299
Very simple....buy the same size and model as the old one, turn off the power/gas to the old one. Disconnect the old one from water/electric lines, and take it out. re connect the new one exactly as the old one was. Turn on power/gas.....if it is gas, light the pilot. Voila! you are now a master plumber and saved yourself a bundle. You will be surprised at how easy it is.
698753
You don't own the meter ... Con Ed does.\n\nCall them and they will do it.
810797
The fuse is in the live wire circuit so that the device has all power removed from it when it opens. If it wasn't the remainder of wiring in the device would be hot to ground. The fuse is the first stop for the live wire in most home electronics. \nLive wire feeds can only enter the house wiring after they have been fused or sent through a circuit breaker. \nThe live wire always goes through the light switch on the wall before it goes to the light on the ceiling for the same reason " to protect the person changing the light bulb'. If the dead wire was the one opened when the switch was thrown to off,  our population would be quite a bit lower.\nThe wire gets hot because it has voltage dropped across it and is consuming power (watts). The more power consumed the more heat is generated. You can probably hold a small light bulb in your hand without getting burnt. If you try to hold a lighted 100Watt bulb it is too hot because it is using 100Watts of power.
664737
Hehe, the utility company inspector will be pretty mad at you the next time he comes around.  I assume from your description that a 220->9V transformer is installed before the meter, but then a 9->220V transformer is placed after the meter to get the voltage back up to normal for your home.  Is this right?\n\nThe step-down transformer will not slow down your meter (there is no free lunch in power consumption).  What will happen is that at the 9V side of the transformer, you will have about 24.5 times the amount of current under the normal setup.\n\nMost meters have coils that sense the voltage and current and mechanically sum up the power.  So, you would be dropping the voltage but raising the current in the same proportion (the power readings will be close to the same as if you left things alone).\n\nPractically, the meter might be damaged since it was probably not designed to handle the higher current and lower voltage.  Also if the transformers you install are not rated correctly, bad things will happen.  The transformers you will need will likely cost a whole lot.  Finally, your meter might actually speed up a little since the transformer after the meter will certainly have some power losses associated with it.\n\nTo sum it up: not a good idea.
527732
no, it is not.\n5 volts and 500ma are the max. that doesn't mean you can't hack it up though (i've been looking how too. lots of documenation.) might want to give this a shot\nhttp://www.usb.org/developers/docs/hs_usb_pdg_r1_0.pdf
827069
The meter should have some literature with it.\n\nWrite to the manufacturer and ask for it.
374633
"So 50 amps without considering lighting."\nthats the pitfall right there. \n\nAmperes is the unit for measuring current. Since the supply voltage is fixed at 110 v (I assume you are in the americas), the amount of energy you are using is given by the number of amps you are drawing.\n\nthe current drawn by each of the appliances, adds up arithmetically. Ideally your supply should support running all your appliances at the same time. and that should include lighting. \n\nif your lighting draws close to or more than 10 amps then you are overshooting your supply rating, you should upgrade.\n\nLike somebody else mentioned, air conditioning units and picture tubes draw a large amount of current (much larger than the value mentioned on the manual), when they start up. I'm not sure how your panel/utility company policy are set up to handle this, but it can be a problem if you are operating with too little amperage to spare.\n\nagain you are right that all the equipment would not be operating at full blast at the same time, but think of this hypothetical situation: after a power outtage, all the equipment want power to get back to normal operating state (heated/cooled/whatever), you might have to bring them up in stages, switching on one unit 30 mins after the earlier one was switched on..\n\nand there is one more thing you are overlooking: planning for growth. you dont want to go through the hassle of upgrading your supply limits just because you bought a new neon lamp for your window :)
983703
ask the elecric board
878651
Buy a new one, get the old out, put the new in.  It's easy methods, just be careful in connecting the power and cable.
525922
Before you can answer this you need at lease to variables. You have the voltage of 1.5 vdc. You will need Amp the clock pulls. Wattage = Volts X Amps.
124655
Get someone who does a little computer maintenance to check your fuse.  Should run you a couple of bucks and a smile.
822904
I use an NPN transistor to turn my relays on/off. See pic...\nhttp://img47.imageshack.us/img47/9813/untitled1ut4.png\nR1=(Voutmax)/(Ioutmax)\n\nThe other option is to use open-collector logic. They use a pulup resistor to what ever voltage you want. This gets sketchy because logic cant handel much current: not to mention the current needed for the relay. See pic...\nhttp://img47.imageshack.us/img47/3778/untitled2vf8.png\nI would use the transistor methoid. Its less trouble then the open-collector methoid. If you need more current through the relay: just decrease the bias resistance.\n\nEDIT: Left_Field is right about the diod. Slipped my mind.
192726
No, that's not a good idea - neutral may not be the same as ground (0 volts).\n\nThink of it this way - the neutral wire provides a return path for the electricity to get back to the power company.  The ground is there to act as a shield, to protect the device from radio interference (if it's an electronic device like a computer).  If there's a ground fault, and you connect neutral to ground, the device may still work OK, but there may start to be "flakey" intermittent failures, like bad signal or data loss, because the neutral voltage is sending interference signals throught the device ground, instead of being shielded by the ground.
1026979
Most assuredly you can, contact electric company, they will handle it.
858637
hmm...surge somewhere.  Could be very dangerous, though.  Call electrician tomorrow.
1177002
yeah you can use a switch (voltage switch) or if you can use binary logic, need to know how much voltage/current you are dealing with