what are the ways to improve heat rate of an oil fired power plant?
601359
What type of oil fired plant are you refering to steam boiler/turbine or combustion turbine used in either the simple cycle or combined cycle mode. For a steam cycle, and without considering the practicality, one can add feedwater heaters, replace the turbine or install more efficient internals, increase steam pressure/temperature, better burners, more efficient motors, install variable speed drives on the bigger fan (forced draft, induced draft) motors, better insulation.\n\nNot sure how to do this.\n\nSome additional thoughts.\n\n>How clean do you keep the condenser?\n>Ditto for FW heaters. Do you calculate LMTD for the heaters?\n>Do your operators maintain all the parameters, e.g., SH temperature that affect heat rate? Do they have a HR parameter display, HR goals?\n>How clean is your turbine? When was it last opened? Washed?\n>Have you tested for seal leakage HP to IP?\n>Don't know your mode of operation, i.e., base, peaking, but do you use full arc or partial arc admission?\n>If your a peaker, and assuming you're not a UP, have you looked at variable pressure operation?\n>Peaking or cycling - have you optimized your start ups? Do you bottle up the boiler?\n>How clean is the boiler, especially, SH and RH passes?\nAdded:\n>GE and W used to offer high efficiency L-0 blades. How old is your unit? Do you have these blades installed?\n>Have you looked for hard particle erosion on your nozzle block and 1st stage blades?\n>Do you chemically clean the boiler? Do you have chordal thermocouples installed?\n>What condition is your air preheater in?
443280
For commercial quantities you will need to find what is called a reservoir. It is a trap that keep oil 'traped'.\nYou need also to have a spongious rock which allows oil to remain in a same place.\netc....\n\nYou can look step by step at this location:\nhttp://www.priweb.org/ed/pgws/systems/energy_capture/capture.html
545704
Well, get out your heat transfer text book and start calculating. You should have all the info you should need.
672653
Use a moist heating pad.
961600
In the laws of thermodynamics, it is stated that energy can not be created nor destroyed, but may be converted from one form of energy to another.  So, it might be better to ask how does one convert various forms of energy into thermal energy?\n\nWell, in the world of HVAC, we can burn a hydrocarbon fuel such as oil or gas (energy), and the products of the combustion process will be heat energy, light, water vapor, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide (we try to create very little of this stuff), and vaporous and particulate matter (smoke .. again, we try to create very little of this stuff too).  The heat and light energy can be placed next to, or mixed within substances that have a lower temperature, and thus heat energy will flow from the hotter products of combustion to areas and substances that are cooler (heat energy always travels from areas of higher temperature to areas of lower temperature).  If a heat exchanger is used, the above products of combustion will be on one side of the heat exchanger, and substances such as cool air or relatively cool water will be on the other side, heat energy will flow from the hot products of combustion to and through the cooler heat exchanger material, and then will flow from the heat exchanger to the even cooler substance your trying to heat such as the water or air.\n\nElectrical energy can be converted to heat energy (thermal energy) by passing a current through a device that has resistance (a resistor).  It takes electrical pressure (voltage) to push the electrons through a resistive material, but any flow of electrons through the resistive material will cause the material to heat up.  The formula P = I x E applies here and “P” will be the rate of power measured in watts, “I” stands for flow of electrons measured in amps, and “E” is electrical pressure measured in volts.  To convert watt hours to BTU's (a watt hour can be a watt that is running for one full hour), you multiply watt hours times 3.413 (I have seen conversion factors ranging from 3.412 to 3.415, I’m not sure what the exact conversion is, but any number in this range will be pretty accurate).\n\nThere are other ways of converting other forms of energy to heat energy, including mechanical energy (friction), other chemical reactions, solar radiation, nuclear reactions  etc.
1600
I work for a natural gas co. W.V.& would haveto say electric is the easiest to install & maintain. Natural gas then lp would be alot cheaper to heat with
301282
decreasing the heat to avoid degredation of the PVC
774220
Go to go ogle web site and type Heat Transfer u will get abundant information about the process OK babe bye.
721867
Check with local energy company. good luck
330519
A two row radiator probably isn't big enough. If you want to keep that radiator, consider getting an oil cooler to help take care of some of the heat.
170935
Site Survey, Drilling/boring for oil well, pumping out petroleum, transporting the crude petroleum to Oil Refinery, Processing of Petroleum Oil at 400 degree Celcius and collecting of various petroleu oils ans bio-products like wax, bitumen, hydrocarbon, etc. at their boiling temperature.
376549
Get a higher rating transistor and provide a generous heat sink. The general rule of thumb is that you can touch the heat sink and it should just feel warm and not burn you.
23844
A very good question -- in my experience the key to good control is placement and mass of the temperature sensor.\n\nYou can use a thermocouple or an RTD (resistance temperature device) depending on your temperature range.\n\nBut in most factory process controls the biggest problem is how to make sure that the sensor is measuring the ambient temperature, or the temperature of the object being heated. If any radiant heat energy falls on the sensor, you will get meaningless temperature readings.\n\nIn some cases a simple reflective shield will allow the sensor to measure the ambient temperature.\n\nSometimes the sensor is embedded in either the object or in a dummy object with similar characteristics. After all your goal is to control the RIGHT temperature, not just any temperature.\n\nThe sources below give a typical easy to use PID controller and a high power SSR.\n\nThe controller has an autotune function -- this is very key because tuning a PID controller can be very frustrating. You can end up with wildly cycling kooky results unless you are experienced.\n\nRemember that a Proportional Integrating Controller is a big step up from a bang-bang on off relay type controller. \n\nProportional just means that it can send a small milliamp signal to the Solid State Relay allowing it to proportionally adjust the heat output of your resistance heaters.\n\nIntegrating can be interpreted to mean that the PID takes into account the amount of heat you have already pumped into the system. So it can avoid shooting a big pulse of heat into an oven which it already knows is pretty fired up already.\n\nAnd Derivative means it watches the rise or fall of the temperature curve to prevent overshooting and undershooting. This keeps the temperature from varying wildly. Maybe! Depends on if you know how to tune it.\n\nGive these folks a phone call, they offer free application consulting, even for small projects.
532683
heat it up.  The higher the heat, the faster the reaction.
200962
Turn off and on is the best way, change your bulbs to ones rated for Energysaving, change your appliances to Energuide branded.\n\nMake sure all your windows and doorways are sealed (helps with fires too!), adjust your heating and cooling for a moderate temperature
206901
Add heat.\nAdd a catalyst.
967084
I would use a length of nichrome wire (see links below) stretched between a couple copper blocks. You could make some sort of pinch block out of the copper and connect a power supply to the copper. (or drill a hole through it with a set screw, tap a hole and us a pan head screw)  You will have to insulate the copper from the rest of the world so you don't short something out.  G-10 (a glass/epoxy resin) makes a good moderately high temperature insulator.  One of the contacts should be fixed and the other allowed to "float" and allow for changes in the length of the wire due to heating.  A spring could be used to provide tension or an air cylinder.  The power supply will depend on the length and diameter wire you choose.  If there is a problem with the electrical contacts heating up, you could run some cooling water through them.  Just drill a hole through it and 1/8 NPT pipe tape both ends.  You can plumb some water to it and it will keep the copper chilled.