How high of a riser handlebar should I switch to?
597174
I think you'll find most bars are tapered a little bit- they're beefier in the middle for more strength where the stem clamps on.\n\nWhat kind of riding are you doing?  The only caution about riser bars is that they make it more difficult to put weight over your front wheel as your are climbing.  So if you're a xc rider you may go with a shorter rise.\n\nYou could try getting an angled stem to use w/ your flat bar- they make stems w/ an adjustable angle also.
507204
it will depend upon how long your legs are compared with your torso, though if you're likely to ride off road often I'd say roughly a 19". maybe an inch or so bigger if you're staying on the tarmac most of the time. smaller bikes are slightly more manoeverable, and are hence better suited to riding off-road.\n\ntry before you buy though.
813099
from the top tube to  the ground...for road you should be minimum 1" away (inseam) for mountain ideally 2"
467547
You got it too high in the air???
691856
I put a pair of Specialized Cumulous (or something) on my old mountain bike to use it in the city.  The fact is that on asphalt, 26-inch road slicks are *way* better than knobbies. They're faster and corner better, and if the asphalt is wet, they're just safer.
1031387
As far as reving high, you need carburator adjustment. This may solve the choke problem as well. For the bike kicking into gear by itself, if it is new they will do that until broken in properly but if it is older you need to check the clutch plates as they may be worn and need to be replaced.
733126
Try asking in the recumbent section of Bike Forums on the link below, users of this type of bike may be able to help you:\n\nhttp://www.bikeforums.net/\n\nGood Luck
951359
The simplest and least expensive way is to drop the forks a bit (that is, raise them in the triple clamps), increase the rear spring pre-load, and shave some foam off the seat.  However, those suspension mods will affect handling (sharper steering and stiffer shock action) -- but that might be okay for a learner (if she's not going very fast).\n\nThe next step up is to take your suspension (front and back) to a motorcycle suspension shop where they may be able to reduce the effective ride height of the forks and put a shorter shaft on the shock.  However, I'm not sure that's possible with the stock shock on a TTR230...  Those mods are somewhat pricey though.\n\nYou can also look into lowering linkages for TTR's, though I haven't seen them myself.
431990
Assuming your Lemond has a 1" quilled stem, I recently did a similar conversion myself.\n\nObviously, you'll need the following:\n\nCarbon fork with 1 inch threadless steerer.\n1" threadless stem, or 1 1/8th" threadless stem with a shim\n1" threadless headset\n\nYou may be able to get away with using your old handlebar, but it might be a good time to look into a replacement.\n\nSince threaded forks and quilled stems are so rare now, and the conversion to threadless is so easy, there's no reason not to do it.
1039446
It depents how tall you are, Im 6 feet tall and have a 22" racing bike and a 19 " mountain bike. A good bike shop will keep you right.
373922
Your feet should be flat on the ground and the seat should be where your crotch is, a bike shop will tell you that.  If your voice gets high and squeeky, the bike is to big for you.  This of course applies to a bicycle.  If your talking about a motorcycle, I have no idea.
379568
go for the lighter frame and bigger engine. just make sure you brace the frame
1103168
In addition to the above answers, look at how the cable is routed - any sharp bends, or the cable not being seated properly in the levers will give you a hard time. If you raised the bars it will raise the cable housing with it, and it will now be too short and causing the brakes to drag or be inneffective.\n\nWhat type of pads did you replace the old ones with? If department store-type, you can't expect much from these. Get some decent pads from the bike shop and give it another go if this isi the case.\n\nThe brakes themselves may be adjusted too tight or corroded at the pivot point(s). They should easily move back to thier resting position if you squeeze them by hand.\n\nAlso, if you have linear-pull (or "v") brakes and a lever designed for sidepulls or cantilevers you can adjust all day and not get any better. Soemtimes, on department store bikes, these are mis-matched right from the factory and you'll need to get the correct levers for the brakes.
819851
I'm not familiar with the brand. Most adjustments are on the handlebars by the throttle. If it is a chinese brand then good luck and shame on you.
188469
get a sportster...they are skinny, light, and my mom drives one and she is 5'4:
1128613
check it bro,buy a ridgid frame from paughco mfg[700 dollars]and your ride will be in the weeds.OR get a set of chrome struts,this will ride ROUGH but lower it about 4 inches.Or call white Brothers and get their progressive shocks.[its a lowering kit]
472691
There should be a barrel adjuster on your rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt. You can either increase or decrease the cable tension as necessary by turning it incrementally. \n\nIf your chain seems to want to shift past the cog that you're shifting to, then your cable tension is too high. If it's not quite making it to the cog, then your cable tension is too low.