Can any body suggest a solution or chemical to clean mortar settlement on aluminum composite panel ?
604455
Mix solution of (phosphoric acid/nitric acid/acetic acid) can be used to clean the settlement on aluminium composite surface.
282012
Use Cigerette lighter fluid... it removes all sticky gluey stuff... :)
191741
I think I would use drywall compound (spackle). just work it into the grooves and lightly sand it off after it dries. it is NOT water soluble, so you could rinse it with hot water to get it back out when you're done.\n\nI meant to say it IS water soluble
447485
Bleach will break down many organics.  I dont have a son to spill mineral oil everywhere but i assume it will work:D\n\nUmm... just use the bleach on the concrete.\n\nThe rugs hmmm... use dish detergant 50/50 mixed with water.  place onto the affected area and scrub lighty.\n\nallow the froth to sit on the carpet for 15-20 minutes.  then use a cloth to pat up the oil.  dont smudge it around.  repeat until you are satisfied.
529301
test the corrosive properties of different solutions. Use ungalvinized steel nuts from hardware store. ( It is important that they are not galvinized, not stainless, and not zinc.) use soda, salt water, tap water, urine, bleach, and vinegar. It should yeild surprising and interesting results.\nP.S. don't use metal bowls, take lots of pictures.
422459
I've just had good advice from members of the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club about just this thing.  I was told to use a hair dryer - definitely NOT a heat gun - and dental floss to lift the sticker.  Then remove any remaining adhesive with something like GooGone.
882944
There are three options.  I'll list them from most risky (but nicest finish) solution to lest expensive.\n\n1.  Remove the bridge (yes, even permanently cemented bridges can often be removed.  They remove it by one of two methods.  The first is by using a tool called a crown and bridge remover.  They hook an attachment under the edge of the bridge and tap it to try to break the cement.  The other method is to drill a small hole in the top of the bridge and use a different type of crown remover which goes into the hole and lifts the bridge upward from the inside, again breaking the cement.  These methods are not always successfully, and occasionally cause the bridge to break.)  One the bridge is off, they send it back to the laboratory where more porcelain is added to the area where the "black" metal edge is exposed.    Another risk is taken when they place the bridge into the oven - and the porcelain is fired to "cure"it.  Occasionally the bridge could shatter due to imperfections in the porcelain. If all of the risky things work for your benefit, you are left with a perfectly repaired bridge that is re-cemented.\n\nSecond option, use bonding (white filling) and cover the metal.  This can be done, but only with the right layering.  Most dentists do not have the right materials to do it.  Metal and composite don't bond so they have to put a layer in the middle to make it work.  Again, this is risky because it will often break and the white material fall off.  \n\nThird, if it is not in the front, then just leave it alone and don't show anyone.  The metal is a good thing in the back near the gumline.  Gum tissue likes a very thin edge to lay against and form a barrier to keep bacteria away from the roots of the teeth.  When a crown of bridge ends with porcelian, it is thick and the gum tissue doesn't like it very much.  In the molars and orther back teeth, we like to leave the metal margin to allow the gums to be healthier.  It isn't really black, it is polished shiney silver.  It only looks black in the mouth because there is not much light.  So,percieved problem may not be a problem at all, but something to help you.  \n\nNow - if it is in the front of your mouth - we almost always use a porcelian margin for cosmetic purposes.  What may have occured is the gum tissue may have resporbed just a little, and might grow back since it was not long ago.
549460
bmck has it right...prep work on any paint job is about 3x the actual paint time and the more the better...all loose paint must go; any place the aluminum is oxidizing ( loose grey powder, the alum. equivalent of rust) must go. Zinc chromate either in spray cans or quarts is the preferred  general purpose primer..\n\nPaints are usually made as a system, ie a finish coat is made to go with a specific primer. GO to marine store..or, if you are on fresh water and doing very limited use) a hardware store, and read the pant cans. Having spent 30 years reading Interlux and Pettit cans, I know there's a lot of information on the label.\n\nIf you are thinking of putting an anti-fouling paint on the boat you CAN NOT NOT NOT use copper based paints. The copper in salt water will eat the aluminum hull in no time....special paints are made for aluminum; once again read the cans.....THIS ALSO APPLIES TO OUTDRIVES AND OUTBOARD MOTORS, FOLKS..if you're in salt or even brackish water don't use copper anti fouling paint on your engine parts.you will quickly regret it
464277
A two part epoxy filler.
134805
Carpenters glue.  It is permanent though.
142989
I am having a hard time picturing the gaps you are trying to fill, so I'm not sure if my ideas will be helpful.  Perhaps you could try ceramic as an insulator.  It also depends on how long the surface will be exposed to the high temperatures.  If its not too long, perhaps you could use wood that has been soaked overnight in water.\nThe aluminum isn't a bad idea, but perhaps you need thicker aluminum.  Like maybe cut open a few soda cans and flaten the result into a crude sheet of aluminum.  Maybe two or three layers worth would do the trick.\nMaybe some gravel or stones?\nWell, those are just some ideas.  Not sure if any of them will work, but maybe that gives you some things to explore.
209656
Calcium/ rust buildup. First, you can try ordinary vinegar. Take off the head and soak the piece in vinegar overnight. That may dissolve the calcium. If not, try CLR or similar product, they work wonders!
1175967
If there is nothing else present, neutralize with NaOH and add the ammonium chloride.  You may need to dissolve the ammonium chloride into solution first.  You may try skipping the neutralization.  More details here:\n\nwww.pgi-platinum-tech.com/pdf/V6N7.pdf
927702
clean with warm water and put duct tape on it untill it comes off.
1149617
It'll come off in time. I think thiosulphate solution might help, but probably not.
686615
Add asbestos to it.\nWell thats what i saw in malcom in the middle
885253
This stuff sounds nasty.\nDon't piss about, get a professional chemical clean up firm in.\nIt might be a legal requirement to do so under the Health & Safety Act.