how can i optimize and increase the heat rejection and decrease the coil surface of air cooled condenser?
602301
What is this condenser's service? Refrigerant, steam, other? Do you need any sub-cooling.\n\nMaterials for the tubes or fins have very little to do with the over all heat transfer rate. Air flow rate and velocity inside the tube have a bigger impact. \n\nIf you do not need any sub-cooling, then having a configuration that will get the condensed liquid out of the condenser so more surface is exposed to the condensing process is important.\n\nOne important thing that is overlooked many times is air recirculation. Having a forced draft arrangement where the fans push the air across the condenser seems at first to be the most economical arrangement but in fact an induced draft arrangement where the air is pulled across the tubes and then discharged by the fans minimizes an air recirculation and actually results in better performance. You should note that most air conditioning condensers use this principle.
239542
Either your blower isn't pushing enough air through, so the coils overheat, or you have a deffective thermal switch. The thermal switch in question should be close to your elements, and is a safety to kick them out if they get too hot. So change your air filters, if it don't work, replace the thermal switch. If you know an electrician, have him check to see if there is voltage going through the thermal switch when the elements are out without a reason. Same thing for a dryer, if you lose your heat, it's either a broken element, or a thermal switch, or your lint catcher is plugged, preventing the air from cooling the elements. I have seen lint catcher plugged below the screen, enough lint to make a small pillow.
931739
By lowering temperature.
330519
A two row radiator probably isn't big enough. If you want to keep that radiator, consider getting an oil cooler to help take care of some of the heat.
947934
The range 50 to 80 degrees is above room temperature, so you need an electric heater and a power supply.  For small lab samples, a surface mount resistor is a good choice.  If precise control is needed, mount a thermocouple as close to the sample as possible and run the output to an A/D converter linked to a computer.  A very simple computer, or micro controller will do.  I used the original Apple for the job 20 years ago.  The computer should switch the heater on at a frequency proportional to the difference between the target and actual temperature.  This will give a damped settling to the target temperature and stability to better than 0.5 C.  For better stability, include the temperature derivative in your model.
889690
You might want to consider using a double wall, with air in between the inner and outer wall. If I remember correctly, air is a very poor heat conductor. Of course, like someone suggested, vacuum would be better, but that's a bit of a stretch. Air would probably work almost as good. The walls should be made out of thermo-insulants (ebonite, I believe)  and/or high heat capacity materials. Covering the outside of the box in aluminium foil would help, if the heat was generated by a source of light (like the sun), but would useless if the heat came from somehwere else. Likewise, painting the box in black would help the water inside stay warm. Covering the inside of the box  with aluminium is as useless as having knees on a fish. Unless you decide you want a lightbulb in the box, for whatever purpose, I'd say it's a waste of time and materials.
164214
Besides adding/reconfiguring fans, or removing/reapplying thermal paste to your processor,  I would STRONGLY advise using CPUidle.  This small program runs in the background and tells your computer to "relax" when you are not doing something on it, or are just using it to do basic things.  \nIt basically keeps your cpu occupied when it isn't doing power tasks and thus LOWERS the cpu temperature DRAMATICALLY!  I use it on both my desktop and notebook, cause remember, the lower the temp the longer life you will get out of your processor!  Try it!
882147
How about a small fan with a bowl of water in front of it to increase air humidity.  It may be worth trying...;
301282
decreasing the heat to avoid degredation of the PVC
1119083
what are we trying to do? Remove heat from the computer so it does not burn up. One way is to bring cool air and push out warm air. \n\nA fan does that and oh Yeah ....... it really really low cost.\nAnything else will increase the cost and you don't really want to do that do you. The more it costs to build it the more you pay for it.\n\nYes there other methods ... I know all of them but they all cost more money .....
37194
90%+ efficient condensing gas furnace
331090
Cooling, Heating, and Dehumidifying\n\n3in1Fig1.jpg (23385 bytes)\n\n    As you turn on the unit,  the refrigerant in the system (in liquid form and with low temperature and low pressure), pressurized by the compressor, turns into gas. The gas then enters into the condenser and perform a process called heat exchange. In this process, refrigerant turns back into liquid by releasing heat energy to the air (Airflow 2) and becomes cooler than before. The liquid refrigerant with cooler temperature enters into the evaporator and perform another heat exchange with the air (Airflow 1). In this process, the heat energy in the air is absorbed by the refrigerant in the evaporator and the resulting cooler air is exhaust through the front vent. Note: Airflow 1 and Airflow 2 are independent of each other.\n\n     \n\n    Because the evaporator is lower in temperature than the air, water vapor will condense if the evaporator's temperature is lower than the ambient dew point. This cycle of condensation will lower the Relative Humidity of the room and thereby achieve the goal of dehumidification.\n\n    3in1Fig3.jpg (16322 bytes)  3in1Fig4.jpg (19482 bytes)\n\n    However, if the unit is used as a dehumidifier, remember to remove the air exhaust duct from the back in order to effectively dehumidify the room. If not, constant air flow from the outside (in order to compensate the air flow to the outside through the air exhaust duct) will make the dehumidifying process ineffective.\n\n     \n\n    Heating function (optional in most models) is included with the intention to make this unit an all-season air-conditioning unit. Operationally, this function is just the same as other features. You can operate the fan, louver, and timer, just as you can for cooling.\n\n________________________________________________________________
236495
For automotive cooling it's R134a.\n\nFor cleaning circuit boards it's Flux Off.
973545
It is now clear who is asking for the limit of 3 degrees. Is it the turbine manufacturer, surface condenser manufacturer, or someone else?\n\nI assume the condensate is being pumped. Is it the condensate manufacturer that is asking for the limit?\n\nI would think from a heat conservation standpoint, you would want to keep it as close to the condensing temperature as possible and still be able to pump the condensate.
1096144
put a fan in...the temp rises when the air doesn't circulate properly.
501016
There is also a program at www.Zdnet.com called \nSpeedFan 4.28  it moniters fan speeds and temps
49976
use a humidifier to up that level. Some furnaces have it built in.