How do I build a horseshoe pit?
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Published By The National Horseshoe Pitchers Association of America (NHPA)\n(Jan 1, 2004)\nRULE 1 - COURT LAYOUT \nSee diagram on back of rules pamphlet.((similar sketches are shown following this document))\nSection A. PERMANENT GROUND LEVEL COURTS \n1. Dimensions - A horseshoe court shall be a level rectangular area 6 ft wide and a minimum of 46 ft long. A north-south setting is recommended for outdoor courts to minimize the effects of the sun.\n2. Pitcher's Box - The pitcher's box is the square 6 ft by 6 ft area at each end of the court. It is composed of 2 parts - 1) the pit, and 2) the pitching platforms.\na. PIT - The pit is a rectangular area filled with the substance onto which the shoes are pitched. Its maximum length (in the direction in which the shoes are pitched) is 72 inches and its minimum length is 43 inches. Its maximum width is 36 inches and its minimum width is 31 inches. The pit must be centered in the pitcher's box. If the pit is less than the maximum dimensions, the extra space shall be filled with the same material of which the platforms are made, or some other material different than the pit substance, and shall be level with the pit and platforms.\nb. Pitching Platforms - The pitching platforms flank the pit to its left and right sides and are parallel to each other. They shall be level with each other and to the top of the pit. They shall be 18 to 20-1/2 inches wide (depending upon the width of the pit) and shall be a minimum of 6 ft. long.\n3. Stakes - The stake is the target at which the shoe is pitched. Each stake shall be centered between the platforms with a minimum of 21 inches from the stake to the front and back of the pit. On regulation courts the stakes are 40 ft. apart. This is measured from the front of each stake level with the pitching platform. Stakes shall be 1 inch in diameter and may be made of cold-rolled steel, mild iron, soft metal or synthetic material. Each stake shall be no shorter than 14 and no higher than 15 inches above pit level and they shall both have an approximate 3 inch lean toward each other.\n4. Pit Substance - Clay, sand, dirt and synthetic compositions are all legal substances to put in the pit. The minimum depth of the substance shall be 4 inches. An 8 inch depth is recommended.\n5. Extended Platforms - The pitching platforms on either side of the pit shall be extended forward (toward the opposite pit) an additional 10 feet to accommodate pitching at shorter distances. The front of the extended platforms shall be 27 feet from the opposite stake. The extended platforms shall be level with and be of the same width and material as the full-distance platforms. It is recommended that the 14 feet between the front ends of the platforms be filled in (using the same material as the platforms) to provide a continuous level walking surface between the two pitcher's boxes.\n6. Multiple Courts\na. Side-by-side - To eliminate distraction and safely separate activity, stakes of courts adjacent to each other shall be a minimum of 10 feet apart. A greater distance (at least 12 feet) is preferable.\nb. Back-to-back - A minimum of 16 feet and a protective barrier must separate the stakes of back-to-back courts.\n7. Backboards & Protective Barrier\na. Backboards - Every pit should have a backboard. It should be at least 3 feet behind the stake, be at least 1 foot high and extend the width of the pit. For spectator visibility, a mesh netting or chain link material is recommended. If of solid material, it should be a color that will provide a contrasting background so as to keep the stake visible for the contestants.\nb. Protective Barrier - All court complexes shall be surrounded by a protective barrier. The barrier should be at least 8 feet behind the stake. A chain link type fence at least 4 feet high is recommended.\n8. Foul Lines - Foul lines shall be defined by lines extending across the front of the full-distance and extended platforms. This places them perpend
139375
A horseshoe magnet allows you to concentrate more of the lines of force that eminate from the ends of a magnet through an object.  That translates in to greater sticking power.  \nYou can use a simalar trick with a bar magnet (like they do in hard disk drive magnets and the like) by applying metal to the rare earth magnets to do the same.
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Assemble the necessary equipment: a roll of 1- to 2-inch-wide athletic tape and a pair of scissors. (Image 1)  \n  \n2.   Wrap one piece of athletic tape under the heel of the foot and bring both ends up the ankle to either side of the leg. The tape should form a "U," like the stirrup on a horse's saddle. (Image 2)  \n  \n3.   Affix the tape to the skin just behind the knobby bone that juts out on either side of the ankle, pressing the tape firmly along the little groove behind the bone. (Image 3)  \n  \n4.   Wrap a second piece of tape around the base of the heel, bringing the ends of the tape along either side of the foot, heading for the toes. It should form a 90-degree angle with the first piece of tape. (Image 4)  \n  \n5.   Wrap a third piece of tape under the heel and up either side of the foot and ankle in the same manner as you wrapped the first piece of tape. Position the tape so that it runs adjacent to the first piece of tape - it should fall right over the knobby anklebone that juts out.  \n  \n6.   Wrap a fourth piece of tape around the heel, running just above and adjacent to the second piece of tape, with the ends again heading for the toes along both sides of the foot. You now have the basic structure for the "basket weave" - overlapping pieces of tape that wrap around the heel, extend to the toe, wrap under the heel and climb up to the ankle. (Image 5)  \n  \n7.   Apply about eight more pieces of tape in this manner - four adjacent strips of tape that wrap around the heel pointing toward the toes, and four adjacent strips that wrap under the heel and head up the ankle. Alternating between strips that run along the foot and strips that run up the ankle will give you a weave that limits mobility and supports the entire ankle. (Image 6) \n\n\nSee images by following the link:
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I can't help you build one from scratch, but SkyMall sells a kit to set one up.  Go to http://www.skymall.com and do a search for ice rink.
416914
Try to make it at 3 feet.  It will probably be easier.  I'd probably use balsa wood.
159881
Use cardboard, clay, or sugar cubs.  Cardoard would be the easiest.
791551
I'm not sure about anything realistic or that they can learn from... but a fun activity, if that's all you want - it to get some old wire-mesh or anything else that'll make a good surface, shape it into an open-topped cone with something just inside the top of the cone that will hold a test-tube or small container just below the top of the peak (eg you could shape some wire to hold it, or perhaps tape or somehow else fix a tube in there). You can then build up your own volcano with papier mache, when it's dry paint it (eg white snow near the tip, dark green for trees lower down, or whatever you prefer). You then mix up some white vinegar with some red food colouring to represent lava, pour a little in the bottom of the container, and when you're ready, add a spoonful of baking soda or so to it! It fizzes up and runs down the sides of the volcano...\n\nThis is a pretty full-on project to make I suppose - you may just want to make one and allow the kids to play with it! It's not exactly realistic, but it's fun...
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You simply take two or more long stakes (say four and a half to five feet in length ) and hammer them into the ground in the places that you need the supports\n\nYou can purchase extending metal poles with one spiked end for this purpose--but homemade wooden ones work just as well
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Get a roll of construction plastic, it's available at Home Depot.  Do not use the kind from the pain department, it is too thin.\n\nUnroll it and unfold it  on as flat a surface as u can.   It should end up being about 10 feet wide by whatever length you wish.  If it is too small you can add a second later.\n\nFirst, you'll need some snow to pile around under the edges so that the outsides are higher than the rest of it.  Then hose it down, (fairly thin).  It will freeze overnight, NOW you can add a second sheet of plastic beside the first one (if you try to do it all at once then the water will seep through the seam).  \n\nRepeat the first step with a thin amount of water.  The thinner the water, the quicker it will freeze.  Believe it or not, the HOTTER the water the faster it freezes.  \n\nContinue with layers of water, only a little at a time.  It will probably take about a week before you can skate on it.\n\nEnjoy!
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Here's a couple of things to think about ...\n\nThink about building a skyscraper and then laying it on its side.  You don't want to build a flat bridge, but something that looks a lot more like a long box.\n\nTriangles are strong because they won't collapse (unless a toothpick breaks, of course).  So the sides of your long box should be made up of lots of triangles.\n\nOne possible shape of the bridge would be like a flattened 'H', like an 'I' on its side.  The horizontal part of the bridge should extend outside the two vertical parts.  Then you can run the string from the middle of the bridge, over the top of each vertical, and back down to the end of the horizontal part at each end.\n\nThe other possibility is to build an arch -- like the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
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Create a little clear area, dig a hole in the ground then fill it with sand. Make a little wood border to hold the sand in (only for the back, left, and right side though, you need the front to be open)then stick a long metal pole into the sand and ground to it can hold steady when being hit with the shoes. Have fun!
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It should be 40 feet:\n\nIn the 1919 Tournament, the distance from each stake was changed to 40 feet, distance that is in effect today. \n(http://www.horseshoepitching.com/gameinfo/history.shtml)\n\nand\n\nSec. 2.5: Stake Distance.- The distance shall be forty (40) feet between stakes. Measured from the pitcher's platform level, from the center of each stake. (http://www.geocities.com/ahpa1949/rules/rules1.htm)\n\nHappy playing!
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Come on, use your imagination and do it yourself!  This is not hard at all!\n\n(good one, goth_brat)
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Buy rope and 4 wooden poles. Use 2 mattreses underneath.
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Try these sites.\nhttp://www.ultimatecampresource.com/site/camp-activity/hillbilly-horseshoes.html\nhttp://www.bombatwashers.com/showyourpits.html\nhttp://www.thewasherboardco.com/
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Use large rubberbands, or bungie cords, and strap them between 2 upright poles. Use a hinge and a peace of wood to make the throwing arm.  You can find all of the parts at a home depot and just kind of wing it.
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go to geocities.com and they will walk you through setting one up... even give you free space.