Should I leave my road bike tires inflated all the time ?
479505
Yes, generally you can leave them inflated.\n\nIf you have tubular (singles) tyres on your race wheels, which you may have pumped up to 200psi....probably a good idea to deflate after the race.
903333
You may want to consider buying a normal road bike with an indoor trainer. This approach would allow you to have the best of both worlds.
1005994
In my opinion, there are lots of advantages, and few, if any, disadvantages in a compact road frame.  \n\nFirst off, you have more stand-over, so if you do have to step off your bike in a hurry, you run a slightly smaller chance of landing on the top tube.  Secondly, they're lighter.  Not by any large amount (we're talking grams here), since your seat post has to make up for connecting to a smaller frame, but there typically is a very small weight reduction.  Thirdly, they're stiffer, since all the tubes are shorter per a given size frame, which offers better acceleration and overall performance.  \n\nAnyhow, there's my two cents.
301778
Maintenance of your drive train is the best thing you can do to keep your bike in good working order.  I would stay away from stuff like WD-40 and other such products not designed for chain lubrication.  I have found that lubricants with the Teflon and such leave too much residue on the chain.  I like ProGold (www.progoldmfr.com) myself.  I started using it based upon a recommendation from Uncle Al in the RoadBikeRider weekly newsletter (it's free and offers a lot of helpful advice on cycling in general.  Sign up at RoadBikeRider.com).  Uncle Al provides a lot of technical advise about bike maintenance.  \n\nAs far as how often you should lube your chain, that will depend upon the riding conditions in which you ride.  Wet conditions will force you to lube more often (also remember to wipe the entire bike down after wet rides especially).  I try to give the bike a quick wipe down after every ride.  You can get the ArmorAll makes some wipes that have an orange degreaser in it that I find work well.  One wipe and a paper towel or rag will keep you bike looking great (and help you identify if anything needs repair.  It is better to find this out at the end of a ride rather than when you get all decked out to go for a ride or worse, on the road).
556631
Get the needle that you use to inflate it. Stick it in the valve (without the pump hooked up to it) and then squeeze all the air out.
440694
It depends on conditions. On soft, muddy trails you might need to go as low as 20 psig.  On hard-packed dirt,  you might go 50 or 55.  It also depends on the tire width.  If it's only 1.5" wide, you have to go higher than if the tire is 2.3".  Also remember, low pressure equals more grip in the soft stuff, but more flats on the rocky ground.   In a nutshell, tire pressure should be adjusted based on conditions.
702390
yes turn it off ,yes it will deflate, when you turn it back on it will reinflate
1094872
Everyday could be spare the air day. I drive only when necessary and arrange for car pool . I walk whenever it is possible.
853620
I think you got your answer already, but just to add concensus: flat is best. And, so you don't feel dumb, I know what you meant: with a small hole, the tube will still hold air for a decent amount of time. I disagree with the comment about a new tube being the economically prudent answer. The new tube saves some time and effort, but a cheesy little patch kit costs $1.99 and they've always worked great for me, and you can patch 5-10 holes with the glue and patches from a single kit. Compared to $6-7 for a new tube? Nahh, do the patch. Good luck!
366820
I would use panniers.  The panniers should be evenly loaded front/rear and left/right.  A low rider front rack will help to increase stability by lowering the center of gravity.  This will also help to even out the load on the front and rear wheels.  At high speeds on a downhill, bikes will sometimes get a "shimmy" on the front if the back is loaded and the front is not.\n\nTrailers have some advantages (easier packing, quick attachment, low center of gravity).  On extended trips, the extra weight is usually not worth the tradeoffs.
331105
Personally I would go with the 40c tires. But!!...that's me.  I use the fattest tires I can when off road no matter the trip or whatever. More tire to use,raise and lower tire pressure without pinch flats. I think the fatter tires take more of the dirt road abuse factor out of the ride also. With the tire sizes so close it would only make sense to go with the wider of the two. I wouldn't even notice the difference in effort pedaling on the road between the two I don't think, but would for sure feel the skinnier tire sink into the dirt. Good Luck and have fun
907542
Further to Sorro's reply, yes the forces are balanced if the speed is constant and the bike and rider are not changing shape (ha ha).\nIf you are hitting the ground, you are being crushed by gravity because the force of the bike's frame is not strong enough to balance your mass.  Better buy a better bike.\nIf you are slowing down, you are not pedaling fast enough to balance the headwind, and friction with the road and wheel bearings.  Better train more.\nIf you are speeding up, great, you are OVERbalancing the wind and friction.\nFinally, if you are floating into the air, you have overcome the force of gravity and are doing an ET.\nEnjoy your ride.\nMore on the physics of cycling at \nhttp://w3.iac.net/~curta/bp/BikeSheet.html.
991406
ok, no one has really addressed your needs here, just thiers.  long distance riding, not RACING, requiers a bike with a few things road bikes lack.  when you hear "road bike" read it as "racing bike", because thats what they are designed for.  road bikes have \nstiff frames for acceleration, light weight for the same reason, flimsy wheels, same reason, and aerodynamic riding positions, same reason.  they also have narrow saddles, and a gear range that is too high, or hard, for normal guy long distance riding.\ntouring bikes on the other hand, have a much wider range of usable gears, including a series of extra low gears for steep extended hills, higher handlebars for less back and neck and hand and wrist strain, wider saddles for better sit bone support, \nmore compliant frames for a nicer ride, more powerful brakes for stopping under load, and more durable wheels, not to mention fatter tires, which makes the ride more comfortable.  road bikes cant take fat tires or fenders, rendering them useless in the rain, gravel, dirt, ect.  fat tires protect the rims from pot holes, and general road debris.  steel is generally accepted as the ideal touring bike frame material.  people say steel is heavy, but well made steel bikes are within a quarter pound of an aluminum bike, and will survive wrecks much better.  good steel bikes last a lifetime.  aluminum lasts a decade.  long story short, a good touring bike will be a lifetime investment, wearas a road racing bike is a fragil object at best, suited for fast paced riding over smooth roads in ideal weather.  \na decent touring bike can be had for 1300, custom complete, made to measure.  if a shop tries to talk you into a road racing bike, its cause thats all they know, and all they have to sell.  \ntouring bikes arnt money makers, they last too long, and cost too much to build.  800 dollars buys you nothing, not even a bad cheap road bike.  think of it as an investment.  road bikes, if your lucky, last 10 years.  thats if you never crash... they will never carry loads well, never handle predictably under load, and are prone to mechanical failure..
357015
You need to pack it very well.  Make it almost as hard as asphault.  Your drivers will apperciate it very much and you will have better racing.
144127
Absolutely you can. Ignore the previous person's answer. The one caveat is that you will need to seal the tire as it will have a lot of tiny holes in it because it was not manufactured to hold air without a tube. You can do this by buying a commercial sealant from Stan's NoTubes (www.notubes.com) or mixing it yourself. However home brews are tough so I won't get into that here. You will have a more difficult time seating the bead of a standard tire onto the rim as the tolerances and bead profile are not designed for tubeless use. Nevertheless, it can be done and is really not that difficult. I have been doing this for years and ride on some of the most nasty terrain and I've not had any mishaps.
373922
Your feet should be flat on the ground and the seat should be where your crotch is, a bike shop will tell you that.  If your voice gets high and squeeky, the bike is to big for you.  This of course applies to a bicycle.  If your talking about a motorcycle, I have no idea.
987404
Why would you want to put that much wear and tear on your tires...