what's the best way to keep out water out your scuba tank?
476575
Even if you ran out of air on a dive (oops!), you won't get water in your tank, because there's still a few bar/PSI  of pressure left in there ('cos of the way your regulator works). The O-ring should be healthy, but that's to keep the air in, not the water out!\n\nScuba air is just normal atmospheric air that's been dried really thoroughly (that's why it gives you a dry mouth during the dive), so that the cylinder won't corrode/ rust from the moisture content in normal air.\n\nThe only way that water can get inside your tank is from atmospheric air (or water!), if you drain your tank completely AND leave the valve open AFTER the dive, so undried air can get in (or you drop it off the dive boat by the dock!).\n\nIf you did that accidentally, then yes, you should get the tank serviced. 'Specially if it happens more than once...
1069269
Use RainX, it's really good about breaking up the drop of water so they very easily and quickly run off the windshield. It's not expensive either, you can find it at any autoparts store or even like Target, Walmart, KMart, etc.
1154531
Just make sure you are swimming slightly b/c if you are not moving you will get a heat shield ora thing around you. Similar to that fume thing when you put gas in your car.
378290
There are two ways that I am familiar with and that are safe.  One is anti-fog gel made especially for divers and snorklers.  Its somewhat pricey depending on where you live.  The other, believe it or not, is toothpaste. take a small dollup on your fingertip.  You dont NEED alot.  Then rub it on the inside of your googles so it makes them white and filmy.  Let it dry, and then rinse and wash them off.  It works.  If you use too much it will bother your eyes as will the anti-fog gel so DONT OVER DUE IT. If you want to try it on your bathroom mirror when you shower the next time feel free.  Follow the same steps.
614264
Go to Walmart....Buy 4 or 5 of those strofoam tubes that kids play with at pools and beaches. They are hollow on the inside. Cut down the middle lieght ways and place the tubs around the edges of you kayak. Turn kayak upside down on the roof and secure it.
189678
wet the goggles and then spit on the inside of the lens...rub it in and put the goggles on.....same as for a diving mask.
268773
My recommendation is steel, high pressure tank, and 80-100 cu ft.\n\nSteel is negatively buoyant when empty.  This allows you to wear less weight when compared to aluminum tanks.  Avoid neutrally buoyant aluminum tanks.  These are just aluminum tanks with an extra 5#s added to it.\n\nHigh pressure because you get more capacity for the size.\n\n80-100 cu ft since these are the most versatile and will most likely match your buddy.  While 80 cu ft hp tanks are great single tanks, if you plan on doubles, then 100 hp tanks are better since these will trim out better for most people.
901093
Your local dive shop will have either someone on staff or someone they can send it out to. Now is the time to add any upgrades to it, like a pee valve or better boots etc.
785776
I did this a long time ago at a science fair.  You need a small glass tube, like a test tube, but not too big.  Put a weight around the opening so it will float with the open end down.  The tricky part is to adjust the weight in the tube to it just floats.  Another way is to adjust how much water is in the tube when it is floating.  Put it in a plastic bottle with enough water to allow for submerging and surfacing.  (They don't like the work "sink" on submarines.)  To make the tube submerge, squeeze the bottle.  This compresses the air inside the tube.  The air takes up less space, provides less floatation and it submerges.  Release the bottle and the tube rises again.  It was acutally a lot of fun when I did it.
335826
Some people say spitting in them and rubbing it around helps. I usually just dip mine in the pool and swirl them around for a few seconds. Shake off the water and them put them on make sure they have a tight seal and you should be fine.
654015
Waterbase lube should be good.But since you have a wee little wee bit...then just blow wind in it...
435208
Free divers practice by doing a dead mans float in a pool during regular practices every week. Basically they just go limp and face down in the water. It's best to do this with a partner in case there is a problem.\n\nYou should also completely exhale and inhale a few times before going under. Again, swim with a partner in case there are complications.
231220
Enclose your entire house in weather wrap. That should keep the weather away.
1001647
Make a box of strong glass or reinforced cardboard. Put the mobile inside it and use a vacuum cleaner to suck the air out of the box. Make it airtight. Thats it.
247058
I had the same problem, only I was trying to make a lamp out of one. I tried everything I could think of to get the valve out. Finally I took a giant drill bit and ended up drilling the ball and housing out. Worked for me, but I don't know how you would seal it so the water don't splash out.
889690
You might want to consider using a double wall, with air in between the inner and outer wall. If I remember correctly, air is a very poor heat conductor. Of course, like someone suggested, vacuum would be better, but that's a bit of a stretch. Air would probably work almost as good. The walls should be made out of thermo-insulants (ebonite, I believe)  and/or high heat capacity materials. Covering the outside of the box in aluminium foil would help, if the heat was generated by a source of light (like the sun), but would useless if the heat came from somehwere else. Likewise, painting the box in black would help the water inside stay warm. Covering the inside of the box  with aluminium is as useless as having knees on a fish. Unless you decide you want a lightbulb in the box, for whatever purpose, I'd say it's a waste of time and materials.
786852
I sent an email regarding this to you earlier.\nNo, do not drain the pool completely. Drain only to just below the level of the returns as they are typically the lowest part of the plumbing system. \n There's a lot more to closing a pool than just draining it down a bit. If you want a pool closing guide I have typed up, mail me back.\n\nEdit: As requested, princess, here's the generic guide.\nIdeally, your closing starts a week before you actually get down to putting the cover on. Get your water balanced chemically first. That week allows you to do this.\nOn closing day: Vac the pool and drain it to just below the pool returns. They are typically the lowest point in the system. When drained to that point, add in a winterizing chemical kit (most pool shops sell them), they typically contain an algaecide, shock and sequestering agent . Remove ladders and rails. You may remove the diving board if you wish, or cover it in opaque plastic sheet and secure it. If you totally remove it,  place something over the diving board jig bolts and lube those bolts or tape with duct tape that jut up through the deck. This can prevent stubbed toes and saves the jig bolts from corrosion.You're done at the pool for the moment. Head over to your pool equipment. If this is a sand filtered pool, you ought to have done a backwash, during the draining process, to clean out the filter. If a D.E. pool, then the same applies to clean off the elements. You can remove them later for a thorough cleaning. If a cartridge filter, just remove the cartridge and clean at your leisure.\nFor all filter types, there will be a drain plug, remove it and keep it out.\nOver to the pump. All inground pumps will have 2 plugs, one midway back on one side and one directly in front.All above ground pumps have a single one, located at the front, under the impellor housing. Remove them and place them in the pump basket along with your filter drain plug. It's a nice , safe place, that you won't lose them in, as you'll leave the pump basket right where it is. This next part all depends on your pool plumbing, you'll have to decide the best route as they are all plumbed differently and the many different ways to blow out lines would be a book unto itself. You'll need to tap into both the return and the suction lines. Typically for the returns, you disconnect a line between your filter and heater (if equipped) and for the suction, you can go directly in from the front of the pump, without disconnecting anything. Doing it this way, will allow you to blow all the water out of the heater, pool returns, any waterfall or fountain(if equipped) or attached spa. Same goes for the suction line for skimmer, in wall suction for a pool cleaner and attached spa suctions (if equipped). You can rent a line blower from a rent all or your local pool shop, or you can use a medium sized shop vac that has a blow feature. The shop vac hose is actually the same diameter as the inside diameter of most pool plumbing (1 1/2 inch) so it makes a good fit. Blow out the lines, until you only see a tiny dribble at the pool, both suction and return. Charge the line with plumber's antifreeze (not automotive) and blow that through to the pool, for all lines. When you see the dye colour of the antifreeze at the pool, it means that the antifreeze protection is sufficient. Plug with your telflon taped winter plugs, all lines ending at the pool. Put something squishable (empty chemical containers or an old partially filled inner tube) into the skimmer to protect it from freeze damage. Remove the pressure guages from the filter and put them in the pump basket with your equipment plugs.\nThere are 3 basic types of pool heater, electric, gas and solar. You don't mention which you have, so I'll assume if you do have one, it's gas. Open the drain cocks on both sides of the heater header (you blew out all the water , when doing the lines, should just be a little anti freeze tha