how to start a 49cc pull start pocket bike?
480737
Be more specific. There is a fuel valve you have to turn to get the fuel to go and then prime the carburator, then give the pull starter a couple of light pulls then pull a few good pulls and it should start up.
371962
you have to pop the starter
798527
first, post your question in the proper category (this is cycling)\nsecond, learn English
644265
You could apply Singer Sewing Machine oil to parts that have rusted.  You can find a convenient little plastic tube of this at Kroger grocery stores and many other places.\n\nIt is also possible to pull out the inside of the shift cable, oil it with that and put it back together. \n\nFor a cable that runs "bare" steel down part of the bicycle:\nIt is possible to lubricate this by simply sliding the outer part of the cable off of what you want to oil.  Pull it free from where it attaches to the frame and slide it over the bare part of the cable.  Oil all of the steel cable.  \n\nFor a completely solid shift cable:\nThe shift cable is 1) unscrewed from the rear derailleur,  2) housing (outer jacket) is removed (may have to remove a small aluminum cap from the derailleur end of the cable), 3) steel inner cable is oiled, 4) any kinks removed from the cable, 5) outer jacket is reinstalled, 6) clamp the end back onto the derailleur where it came from.\n\nIf this doesn't work at all, remove the rear wheel and check to make sure that the freewheel (5 gear cluster) doesn't turn both ways.  One way should go clickity clickity, and the other way should attempt to turn the wheel.  \n\nWith the bike upside down, check to be sure that your rear derailleur moves back and forth whenever you move the shifter lever.  If it does not, check the cable again, spray the rear derailleur with WD40 (don't get that stuff near a tire!) and you may need to purchase an inexpensive shifter cable from your bike shop.\n\nIf your freewheel (5 gear cluster on the rear hub) does turn both ways by hand, then it is in need of replacement.  One particularly nice option is to purchase a replacement rear wheel (5 or 6 speed rated for screw/thread on freewheel) in the right size from bikepartsusa.com or amazon.com's Niagra Cycle.  \nYou'll also need a screw-on 5 or 6 speed freewheel.  While freewheels are extraordinarily difficult to remove, they can be installed as easily as putting the lid back on the peanut butter jar, and you can request by phone that the two parts be pre-installed.  \nThis option ($25 to $30 wheel, $15 to $19 freewheel/gears) is about the cost of getting the old one repaired at a bike shop.  \n\nWhat do you do if the rear derailleur doesn't move when you move the shift lever, replace the shift cable, and already tried WD40?  Don't worry, quite a selection of Shimano's entry level derailleurs still come with the old fashioned "claw" mount, and they work great!  A Tourney TX30 with hanger mount or TX50 with hanger mount is about $8 to $10 and is compatible with older bikes.  \nYou'll need a chain tool ($3) and a Shimano 7 speed chain $(12) to complete this installation yourself.  Remove the old chain and old rear derailleur.  Size the new chain (add an inch if your new derailler has a longer "cage" like the TX70 Mega Range that works with 6-speed 13-34 Mega-Range freewheel for mountain gears--for both, add two inches), install the new derailleur, put the new chain on, insert the too-long looking Shimano connector pin (using the chain tool, pin goes--pointy end first), and snap off the excess end of the connector pin.  This is all in the directions that come with Shimano's 7 speed chains #'s HG50 and HG70.  \n\nSuitable oils for rusted bike components include Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 3-n-1 oil, and motorcycle chain oil.  Do not use car oil!  WD40 works in an emergency, but it can dissolve rubber tires and shift cable jackets.  After an initial break-in period, even these oils will attract dirt.  Remove this with dark green formula Simple Green household cleaner, rinse with water and dry with a hair-dryer or towel.  Reapply lightweight oil or use Mountain Bike wax-based chain lube if you want it to stay clean more easily or live on gravel roads.  \n\nHave fun, and remember that by removing the rear wheel, you can more easily find out what part isn't working right.\n\nfor
306146
try your state police they will start it ?
1024421
Get thee to your local bike shop.  Ask for leg warmers.  Otherwise, check performance.com, velowear.com, velogear.com, etc...
770690
Sorry, you need a chain tool unless the chain is made be Sram. It isn't Sram unless it was already replaced.
313950
As much horsepower and torque as you can afford, use a longbed frame/body, and move the rear end back next to the bumper--use a tall rearend 5:13-6:50 and a six-gear automatic manually shifted--Good luck!!!
424547
the 302 only ran from 68-69.\n\nthough you can make your own.\nthe 302 shares the same bore as a 350, but the stroke is 3.00" instead of 3.48", so you have to get an aftermarket crank with a 3' stroke. get the correct length pistons and rods and you have a 302.
157860
good carb  probly an 800cfm  the two screws in the front / bottem of the carb with springs. work slowly and at idial speed in 1/4 turns or 1/2 turns or one full turn.\n\nturn one screew in (tight) a 1/4 turn listen to the motor go another 1/4 turn lisen for a change do not ever rev the motor....wait be patient.... go another 1/4 never loose track of your starting point  whitch is 3/4 turn now\n\nwhen you hear a change in idial losen it a 1/4 wait some more\n\nnow do the other screew the same. I\n\nf the factory lock glue is still on the screews dont touch them\n\nand this will not save you gas
1171700
The above 2 answers are good.\nFirst of all - you never 'hold' a clutch (except when stopped) - you ease the clutch out rather rapidly as you aply the throttle.\nWhen shifting while accerlating, it just takes a split second, clutch in - shift - clutch out throtle. \nOnly shift with out clutch - \n1) when you get more experience\n2) have a race ready cycle\n3) understand pressures on & off the transmission\nUse the clutch and have many more hours of fun\nex Yamaha team moto x'r
531892
Go here   http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.sz?kbb&&&zip;5419;mc\n\nKelley Blue Book for motorcycles
216394
Then u gonna ride on it through Marine drive. look for Ali's Garage at Bandra, there u will also find imported bikes
1037503
Check out this photo for proper chain configuration-\n\nhttp://152.10.254.216/images/Shimano_XTR_derailleur0_DSC.jpg
758837
Try contacting the San Diego Pocket Bike Shop.\n\nIf they can't be of service call or visit The Pocket Bike Shop Directory of North America http://www.PocketBikeShopDirectory.com
111096
I dont know much about bikes, but it sounds like you probably need to oil it...
262156
Get off the computer and get outside and use good old trial and error.  Build a ramp of dirt--it may be easier to make a pile of rocks (or whatever else you have in your area) and cover it with dirt.  Jump your bike off it and then adjust it as needed.  Buy a mountain bike video (The Collective, Kranked series, etc) and check out how they build theirs.  They will be bigger and the lips will be more vertical, but you can scale it down.  Also check out photos on online forums (MTBR, NSMB, ridemonkey, busted spoke, etc).  People post their dirt jumps all the time.\n\nIf you know of any BMX jump tracks, check those out.  But realize that a MTB wheelbase is longer, so the curvature of the ramp/lip needs to be a larger diameter.\n\nIf youre only going for 3' of air, you can probably land flat or build your jump so that you land on a down-sloped transition.  When you progress bigger than that, you will probably build your own transition exactly where you need it, and at the angle you need.\n\nCheck out Bellingham, WAs dirt jump park--my buddy helped develop and build it.