what is the lighted foam that is waterproof. This needs to be put into my sailboat for bouyancy.?
484853
I would talk to someone at a marine supply or shipbuilder, rather than asking random strangers on a message board.
249629
Go to the boat store..
1097191
Well, there seem to be quite a few manufacturers - and some might not exist any more.\n\nHave you got any kind of papers to the boat? Actually there should be a badge at an easily accessible place with all the information - like manufacturer, serial number, construction year.\n\nPerhaps ask someone where their badge is mounted in a sailboat (of any category), just as a hint for you.
56359
One reason is Clark Foam, the largest supplier of foam blanks for surfboards closed. The cost of complying with strict EPA laws was too costly for them to continue. Now many of the blanks are being shipped from China or Australia. The cost rises because of shipping and cost to keep the environment safe. Many boards are also being made of epoxy resin which raises the price of the board considerably.
732028
There are natural surfactants in the water from certain organisms that grow in the ocean (e.g. kelp, coral). The wave action on the water and surfactants then makes the foam.
84980
Depends on the size. A simple toy boat size, almost any cardboard would work. Look at the construction of a container from your local Chinese restaurant. Simple yet effective.\nAs for a boat you sit in, well I would say tape is not enough. You would need to strengthen the cardboard alot with ribs. \nDisplacement of water is what causes you to float. Make a raft with sides. Approx 1sq ft for every 20 lb of weight.
485066
yep; wax will help protect the gel coat ( the outer , colored layer of the fiberglass layup)....first you get an electric polisher ( looks like a drill or grinder with a big wool pad on it) and go over the boat with rubbing/cleaning compound; this gets the dirt, salt and oxidizing layer off the glass, makes it look clean and somewhat shinny, and then wax...down here in the Caribbean with hard usage of boats 24/7/365, waxing lasts about a year...be very careful about doing decks...you will slip fall go overboard hurt yourself!!!
751079
a light that makes you glow in the dark, buy it at any hardware store\n\n:> peace\n.
445963
skate board or surf board??? if surf board... its all in the horizontal lights.  with high powered lights coming in from the sides, you can see every ridge, scrape or rough area.  Then you can sand it out to be perfect before you put the fiberglass on. It is a huge commitment.  you are better off buying one because all the materials that you will need will be very expensive, unless you are planning on making a bunch and breaking into the market of surf boards.  \n\nhope that helps
604609
If you mean foam as a suppression agent, they are usually protien or soap based.  When mixed with water they create the "foam" that can used to blanket a fire, particularly when flammable liquids are involved and water alone would simply spread the fire becuase most flammable liquids float on water.
557304
Having owned wooden sailing yachts for 30 years and lived aboard and cruised them in the Caribbean and made a living as a  boatbuilder:\nOakum is good only on larger boats with big gaping seams and something solid behind them, ie the garboard or along the stem/transom, as oakum is a big hairy thing that takes along time to expand and then really expands and can blow the planking off a boat...saw it happen NOT pretty.\n\nWhat has worked for about 500 years is cotton caulking..it comes in along long skein from Distributors and Defender Industries, you pull out  a few feet at a time, twist it  so its now a tightly twisted line of cotton about , oh, the size of a pencil, and drive it into the seem with a caulking iron, which looks like a fat putty knife and is also available from Jamestown. It takes a while to develop the feel for setting the cotton deep enough to putty over without driving it all the way through; if a seam is really open, you might have to wind the cotton a little looser, say tot he diameter of a crayon and push it gently in rather than drive it in... Paint the caulking with a thin coat of paint, then under the water line use Pettits brown seam compound; above the waterline Pettits white seam compound. Both remain flexible for a goodly while and if protected by paint wont crumble out. Epoxy will NOT work; the plank swelling will spit it out.\nThere is a fair amount of controversy about using 3-Ms 5200 under the waterline and Life Caulk above.it's not old timey, its not traditional, but it works.\nRemember if the boat has been out a while and the seams need a lot of caulking...cotton, putty, 5200....as the planks swell they will force out the putty/5200, and you will have to scrape and sand and repaint the topsides until the wood is swollen to where it wants to be...\nSeams that have shrunk so you can see daylight will swell back up..but it may take several days..when you first launch the boat  be prepared for a lot of water coming in...(I needed a crash pump to back up two 1750 bilge pumps after being out for 6 months...)if you can, hose the boat down inside and out a few days before launching...use LOTS of water..it will save a lot of Ohmygod we're sinking trauma at launch...\n\nThere is a magazine devoted to fools like us with wooden boats. Its called (DUH) WoodenBoat, web site is www.woodenboat.com. Filled with all sorts of do it yourself tips and references and books and good stuff..Start reading it today.
693831
Look for inkjet sticker or laserjet sticker, they are different. Inkjet sticker of some brand can perform waterproof, but it can't resist to Ultra Violet since usually we used water based ink. So, better use Laser printer or dot matrix printer
1107298
Go read " A Cruiser's Guide to Hurricane Survival" from Cruising Guide Publications..174 pages on how to survive a hurricane in a sailboat, at anchor or on the dock....and how to evaluate where you are\n\nas far as insurance company wanting to know........you got it backward..the insurance company should tell you........there is no recognized Government list so the CG wont be any help........that says this harbor is safe.....be prepared for the ins. company to give you a hard time as to what "safe" is if you have to put in a claim........generally anyplace sheltered from wave action is  a better bet than not.....if your marina has a wide open fetch for waves to build up and batter a boat, find somewhere else.......and in a direct hit by a major storm, like when Hugo went through SC in 87, all bets are  off!
939921
Any polar, organic, acidic solution would work the best.\n\nThe acid (try 2M sulfuric) will hydrolyze the bonds in the polymer, breaking the foam down into styrene monomers.  The polar organic solvent (try acetone) will then dissolve the monomers (like dissolves like!)
1067885
Life vest, sunscreen, water, sandwich, empty container for packing out garbage, extra paddle, camera, and a helmet if you expect any rapids. I also recommend one of those type 4 throw floaties that can be used as a seat cushion.
138441
There are actually places where you can buy kits for model lighthouses.  Just do a search for "building a model lighthouse".\n\nYou could use pieces of styrofoam insulation - easy to work with, inexpensive, light weight.  In hobby shops you can probably buy thin pieces of balsa which would also be easy and light and easier to paint than the styrofoam, and would be my first choice I think. Check hobby shops for kits too.  YOu will probably opt not to use a kit, but they could give you ideas.\n\nThere is the question of whether you want the light to be real or pretend, moving or not moving.  I'd use a Christmas tree light I think, but there are lots of LCD lights available now at Walmat - check in the campoing section usually - you might find something there that will work better.  \n\nFor display purposes you probably want the lighthouse to stand on something that looks like a rocky seashore - papier mache works well and then paint it - recipes available on line.  Papier mache keeps hte project relatively light and easy to move around.\n\nIf the lighthouse is to have windows at lower levels as many lighthouses do, aluminum foil works well.\n\nI hope these thoughts are of some help.  Good luck to you and your daughter.
932202
Edmunds Scientific\n--> http://scientificsonline.com/search.asp?t=ss&ss=strobe