How do I adjust my rear derailure?
483282
first try to assess if you have the right chain-sprocket combination, then the chain lenght and tension.then check your cable tension with the barrel adjuster on the rd and trigger shifter,and if its too tight, it might skip over the other sprockets, and vice-versa.
196579
Just keep practicing and stick to it.  You know the technique for stopping left, just reverse it for right.
867741
I don't know where you can go, but I have a suggestion. Take the pedals off the bike and practice scooting around on it. You'll eventually be able to coast farther and farther. When you get comfortable balancing for longer periods, put the pedals back on.
563828
The correct size allen wrench should loosen the stem. Sometimes after you loosen the bolt you have to tap on it with a hammer to loosen it from inside the tube. If you can't get it loose, just take it to a bike shop. They will have no problem straightening it for you and probably won't cost that much.
346396
The chain could be loose or your gears need adjusting. You should take it down to your local bike shop and ask them to fix it for you.
1118213
The rear derailleur looks like a Tourney or C-50 mega range rapid rise. The bolt on type not the hanger type. It's had to say from the pic. It would've been nice to see the bike specs which would've told you. Your best bet would be to contact them and ask which one they used on the bike. Ball park price on a replacement 20-30 bucks.
155979
all you have to do is get a hormonic balancer puller. There should one large bolt in the middle to take of then there is three smaller bolts around the large one in the middle.  Once you get those of put the puller on and pull if off.
203100
do you want the procedure, or the spec?  What year is your vehicle - it matters.\nSpec: 8 degrees before top dead center at idle.\nProcedure:  need timing light - timing marks on vibration damper and metal pointer attached to block points to marks - loosen clamp holding distributor down and turn distributor to adjust timing (small movements while running)
404915
Drive less. Get a tune up, in general use less gas.
858682
Wow. Must say that's one of the more interesting Q's I've seen lately.\n\nSome things you could try:\n- raise your handlebars (check w/ a bike shop) so you sit more upright\n- try different saddles, some have those holes in the middle\n- remove the "hardware" before you ride, put it back in while cleaning up after your ride.\n- try going au naturel... remove the hardware entirely.\n\nGood luck... keep us "posted"
964946
You probably need to repost and clarify a few things-  do you mean crankset (which is the front three gears) or cassette (which is the gearing on the rear wheel, usually 7 - 9 speeds)? Also, by rear mech, do you mean derailleur, or rear cassette?\n\nI can tell you this - when Shimano moved from 8 to 9 speeds they changed the chain, so a 9 speed crankset and an 8 speed cassette might be problematic.\n\nIf you are only worried about your rear derailleur, then you should not have much of a problem - just set your adjustment screws correctly and go.
89490
check your wheels,... are they properly aligned? Also go for computerised wheel balancing.\nAnd better be careful. Don't drive too fast till you get the prob rectified. If you brake suddenly then the car might skid or turn around.
951060
Place the chain on the smallest chainring (in front) and the smallest cog (in the rear). \nLace it through the derailleurs as normal with the ends of the chain at the bottom (between the rear derailleur and the chainring).\nPull the chain just enough to have the derailleur pulleys place the slightest amount of tension on the chain. If it is necessary to remove links to achieve this, then do so. \n\nThe key is to have a VERY small amount of tension on the chain (caused by the rear derailleur) when the chain is on the smalles chainring and cog. It shouldn't hang loose, and it shouldn't be too tight.
1103214
There are a few simple changes you can try.  \nSince I cant see your bike, 1st I'd say good gloves are a must.  \nmy 2nd guess is your tailend is too far back on your bike \n(this can stretch you out too far & put pressure on your hands).  \nIf you can, try to slide your seat forward a bit...\nsmall adjustments can make a big difference.\nAlso try changing your grips to a softer compound.  \nI have grips made from silicone, its feels very nice.\nIf that doesnt work, see your local bike shop can help.
1146787
well first what can you even do? and do you want to go the whole length? heres what i would do go very very fast possibly skitch a car or electrick dirt bike or somthing  front side switch bigspin and land on the rail in bs tailslide land with a manual and for the finalie casper flip 180. it sounds hard but its really not if you can do the tricks the hardest part will be landing in manual if you attempt
902796
go to ur nearest performance shop to order you in a performance transmission, by a performance clutch kit and a performance flywheel, tune and them feel it out on the tracks
398273
I don't mean to sound mean or like a snob or anything but don't waste your hard earn cash on a department store bike.  They're made to 'look' tough and all but the components aren't any good and you'll constantly be fidgeting with the derailler tension.  You'll have mis-shifting all the time.  The frame and suspension is crap too.  Go to an actual bike shop and look at the low end bikes there that will last a long long time.  Sure, they cost a bit more but you'll have free service for at least a year and the shifting will stay nice and smooth.  A much better deal on a much better bike.