what size pool pump do I need?
459925
Depends, what size pool do you have?
327092
www.poolandspa.com\n\nGood Resource
786852
I sent an email regarding this to you earlier.\nNo, do not drain the pool completely. Drain only to just below the level of the returns as they are typically the lowest part of the plumbing system. \n There's a lot more to closing a pool than just draining it down a bit. If you want a pool closing guide I have typed up, mail me back.\n\nEdit: As requested, princess, here's the generic guide.\nIdeally, your closing starts a week before you actually get down to putting the cover on. Get your water balanced chemically first. That week allows you to do this.\nOn closing day: Vac the pool and drain it to just below the pool returns. They are typically the lowest point in the system. When drained to that point, add in a winterizing chemical kit (most pool shops sell them), they typically contain an algaecide, shock and sequestering agent . Remove ladders and rails. You may remove the diving board if you wish, or cover it in opaque plastic sheet and secure it. If you totally remove it,  place something over the diving board jig bolts and lube those bolts or tape with duct tape that jut up through the deck. This can prevent stubbed toes and saves the jig bolts from corrosion.You're done at the pool for the moment. Head over to your pool equipment. If this is a sand filtered pool, you ought to have done a backwash, during the draining process, to clean out the filter. If a D.E. pool, then the same applies to clean off the elements. You can remove them later for a thorough cleaning. If a cartridge filter, just remove the cartridge and clean at your leisure.\nFor all filter types, there will be a drain plug, remove it and keep it out.\nOver to the pump. All inground pumps will have 2 plugs, one midway back on one side and one directly in front.All above ground pumps have a single one, located at the front, under the impellor housing. Remove them and place them in the pump basket along with your filter drain plug. It's a nice , safe place, that you won't lose them in, as you'll leave the pump basket right where it is. This next part all depends on your pool plumbing, you'll have to decide the best route as they are all plumbed differently and the many different ways to blow out lines would be a book unto itself. You'll need to tap into both the return and the suction lines. Typically for the returns, you disconnect a line between your filter and heater (if equipped) and for the suction, you can go directly in from the front of the pump, without disconnecting anything. Doing it this way, will allow you to blow all the water out of the heater, pool returns, any waterfall or fountain(if equipped) or attached spa. Same goes for the suction line for skimmer, in wall suction for a pool cleaner and attached spa suctions (if equipped). You can rent a line blower from a rent all or your local pool shop, or you can use a medium sized shop vac that has a blow feature. The shop vac hose is actually the same diameter as the inside diameter of most pool plumbing (1 1/2 inch) so it makes a good fit. Blow out the lines, until you only see a tiny dribble at the pool, both suction and return. Charge the line with plumber's antifreeze (not automotive) and blow that through to the pool, for all lines. When you see the dye colour of the antifreeze at the pool, it means that the antifreeze protection is sufficient. Plug with your telflon taped winter plugs, all lines ending at the pool. Put something squishable (empty chemical containers or an old partially filled inner tube) into the skimmer to protect it from freeze damage. Remove the pressure guages from the filter and put them in the pump basket with your equipment plugs.\nThere are 3 basic types of pool heater, electric, gas and solar. You don't mention which you have, so I'll assume if you do have one, it's gas. Open the drain cocks on both sides of the heater header (you blew out all the water , when doing the lines, should just be a little anti freeze tha
958725
It all depends on physics and how you drain the pool.\n\nOn average, it can take several hours with pumps
478177
I would suggest the same size chain as the one you're replacing. That usually seems to work best.
594417
Check out this site, this may help you\nhttp://www.americanpool-network.co.uk/default.asp?p=san06viet
388928
Assuming that the pool is filled to the top,\n\nV = pi * r^2 * h\n= pi * 12^2 * 4.5 (pools are generally quoted in diameter, hence the 12; 52 inches is 4.5 feet)\n= 648pi ft^3\n~ 2034.72 ft^3 (using pi = 3.14)\n\nSince 1 ft^3 = 1728/231 gal, you'd have 15,221 gallons in your pool.
140936
See if you can find a small fountain pump at the local craft store. I found one years ago that fit inside a medium size vase. It was something like $15 or $20. From there, build a river bank around it.
287280
Two words.......AIR PUMP
402260
couple of choises. pool heater or a pool heat pump. or even a solar heater. try this link and see if any would work for you.\n\nhttp://www.swimmingpoolsetc.com/poolheaters.htm\nhttp://www.swimmingpoolsetc.com/pool-heat-pumps.htm\nhttp://www.swimmingpoolsetc.com/solar-heater-ig-pools.htm\nhttp://www.swimmingpoolsetc.com/solar-heater-ag-pools.htm
404494
go to kmart  or walt mart to the pool section and find a kit it usally comes with a package with the little strips
435063
I believe one of these is what you need: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=464&Nav=|c:81|&Sort=3&Recs=10
220178
You need to be a little more specific. \n\nAssuming you want to do some serious pumping :\n\nCan you use pumps? Yes you can. What type? The key issue is the NPSH (Net Positive Suction Head) available to the pump. \n\nIf you want a highly efficient pump, you would want to use a centrifugal type. This needs a relatively high NPSH, and also needs the flow rates to be reasonably high and the compression ratio (pressure at the outlet divided by pressure at the inlet)relatively low.\n\nReciprocating or positive displacement pumps are capable of higher compression ratios and can operate with lower NPSH but are generally less reliable and less efficient. \n\nIf you just want to pump water to the second floor or have more pressure for a shower, go to a plumbers supplier, there are any number of good pumps on the market.
315339
It's basically a swimming pool with a slab over, though you have the opportunity of using stub walls or columns to reduce the slab spans. If the tank is small the sizes will be determined by practical rather than structural considerations. I'm hoping to build such a tank later this year as part of extentions to my house.
779880
Depending of the flow rate and the definition of "high head" it could be a multistage centrifugal or a positive displacement pump. \n\nIf given only one choice then a positive displacement pump would be the likely choice but not necessarily the best choice. \n\nFor example: to pump 10 gallons a minute up to 1500 psig, a positive plunger pump would be the likely choice. However, to pump 1000 gpm up to 1000 psig, a multistage centrifugal would probably be the best choice.\n\nMore information is needed to make a good recommendation.
158404
as big as possible.You want if pretty big to keep the water as smooth as possible
610696
The best thing to do is go to their website, it may give you a listing of your local distributors. Since I don't know where you live I can only tell you that our local distributor is Academy Sporting Supplies. Are you having problems with the pool? need parts?