How long does it take for  house paint to dry?
470600
with proper circualtion of air maybe like 5-10 hours and it depends on the size of the house. make sure u air it out u dont need to get high off the paint odors.
35461
Probably the easiest way to get the paint part of Windows is to re-install your windows program again.\n\nYou won't loose anything, as it overwrites your current Windows program and install missing or corrupted files.  Should tale you 30-40 minutes to do.\n\nOr you can download the "Microsoft Experience Pack for Tablet PC" and get more things to play with.  Free from Microsoft.
69838
Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
579820
well it takes me and jose about 1 hour to get messy so iam not sure.
323369
Not long.  You can buy flesh colored bars to put in so it's not as visible.  I have a friend who does this.
1179896
If you are printing upon plain paper, and depending upon humidity and temperature of the room (not to mention manufacturer of the inkjet ink), dry times take from 5 to 45 seconds (aproximately) to dry to the touch. At this point it is save to flip the page over for printing upon the opposite side. Double sided printing is known as "duplexing."
148060
As a professional house cleaner I would suggest TSP diluted heavily as this is a strong cleaner. You can find it at your local hardware store (Eagle, Home Depot, etc.). It works very well for cleaning tobacco off of walls and especially kitchen cabinets. As for the smell, TSP doesn't do that good of job. I use Simple Green (which I buy by the gallon at Costco) and dilute it 50/50 with water. This is a de-greaser so works great in the kitchen too! I clean with it all the time and the gallon will last me about 2 years for $6.00. Remember not to just paint the walls...tobacco will seep through paint. It is essential to wash it off before painting!
1034748
every 2-3 hours, and you should apply and allow it to dry b4 getting back into the water
806008
LOL, guaranteed people will provide you with a wrong answer, but I'm a math whiz so I'll get it right. \n\nSally can paint the entire house in 4 hours so in 1 hour she can paint a quarter of the house. \n\nJohn can paint the entire house in 6 hours so he can paint a sixth of the house in an hour. \n\n1/4 x + 1/6 x=1\n\nWatd i tell u the person before me made the predictable mistake.\n\nSolve for x and then youreceive a time of 2.4 hours.\n\n2.4 hours is the answer and I am positive
768442
There are several types of varnish, each with its uses.  Most today are using polyurethane, but that does not work well with exposure to the sun, it will break up, so don't use it on a piece of furniture that is either for outdoors or for close to a window.\n\nThere are standard varnishes for furniture offered by many companies.  They have one basic problem - they take too long to dry, as does polyurethane, and thus any bug that walks that way or any dust settlement will cause problems for you.  \n\nSpar varnishes are for outside, they were originally created for finishing the spars on wooden ships. \n\nThere are faster drying furniture varnishes, some water soluble and polyurethane comes in a water soluble type.  They will dry faster.\n\nThe basic problem with polyurethane is that not only does it take a while to dry, they are incredibly hard, so to recoat (if you need more than one coat, requires some sanding to scratch the surface.  \n\nAll varnishes will water spot.\n\nShellac is a good finish for furniture, it dries rapidly (20 minutes or so) and if you get runs in it, you can literally wipe them out and reshellac that spot.  It also will easily water spot.  If you buy varnish, buy white (but not pigmented tot he color white) and cut it about 1/3 with shellac thinner.  It will literally go on like water. \n\nI like sprayed laquer and the way that I refinish furniture (and you have to to bare wood) is to spray about 10-15 coats of laquer on it, each coat will take about 10 mintues to dry, and then polish it off.  Get gloss laquer and if you want a semigloss finish, rub it with the grain with 0000 steel wool.  \n\nVarnish is seldom used on new furniture.  Shellac was the finish up to 1925 or so and then came laquer.  The reason they stick with shellac and laquer is drying time and dealing with dust.
550483
Acrylic paint is fast-drying paint containing pigment suspended in an acrylic polymer emulsion. Acrylic paints can be diluted with water, but become water-resistant when dry.    Depending on how much the paint is diluted (with water), the finished acrylic painting can resemble a watercolor or an oil painting.\n   Acrylics were first available commercially in the 1940s, although experimental forms of acrylic resin paints had been developed as early as the 1920s in the U.S. and earlier in Germany. The first commercially available acrylic paints were actually oil compatible.\n   Acrylics are sometimes used in place of watercolors because acrylics dry closer to the desired color (slightly darker, usually) while watercolors dry lighter (and often unpredictably, especially for beginning artists).\n   Acrylics are often used as an alternative to oil paints because acrylics dry much faster (usually within an hour or even as little as less than a minute, depending on brand and thickness of application). Oil paints, which consist of pigment suspended in an oil (usually linseed, or other natural oil) base, can take a very long time to dry: a few weeks or as long as several months. Acrylic paints can achieve an oil-paint-like effect, and do so in much less time. Though applied to look like oil paints, acrylics are somewhat limited due to the superior color range of oil paints,[citation needed] and the fact that acrylic paints dry to a shiny, smooth effect—not surprising since acrylic paints are, basically, plastic. Accordingly, acrylic paint cannot be removed with turpentine, mineral spirits (also known as white spirits), ammonia, or rubbing alcohol. Another one of the disadvantages of this medium is that paintings can crack and be corrupted much sooner than with oil. Most painters outside of the 20th Century have mixed their own paints to increase the longevity of the artwork.\n    Acrylic painters modify the appearance, hardness, flexibility, texture, and other characteristics of the paint surface using acrylic mediums. Watercolor and oil painters also use various mediums, but the range of acrylic mediums is much greater. Acrylics have the ability to bond to many different surfaces, and mediums can be used to adjust their binding characteristics. Mediums can change the sheen from gloss to matte, or can add iridescence or texture to the surface. They can also be used to build thick layers of paint: gel and molding paste mediums are sometimes used to create paintings with relief features that are literally sculptural.\nAcrylic paints are the most commonly used in grattage (q.v.).\nAcrylic paintings, ideally, should be recognized as being as different from oil paintings as watercolors are — in other words, as a distinct art medium with its own advantages as well as limitations, rather than as a stand-in for another meduim. There are techniques which are available only to acrylic painters, as well as restrictions unique to acrylic painting. Therefore, judging an acrylic painting as though it were an oil painting (or a watercolor) is not always appropriate.\n    Although the permanency of acrylics is sometimes debated by conservators, they appear more stable than oil paints. Whereas oil paints normally turn yellow as they age/dry(oxidize), acrylic paints, at least in the 50 years since invention, do not yellow, crack, or change.\nIndustrial paints are pigmented liquids or powders that are used to protect and/or beautify substrates. They typically include a resin, a solvent, additives, pigments and, in some cases, a diluent. Solvent-based paints contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) as the carrier. Water-based paints contain mostly water, but also chemicals such as glycol ethers and alcohols as the carrier. Some industrial paints are applied with brushes or rollers. Others are applied with spray systems. Colors vary widely and include black, blue, brown, gray, green, orange, purple, red, white, and yellow. Primers and finishes such as
353081
Sand old clear coat with 400 grit sandpaper till shine is gone. Dont sand the clear coat off to the paint.Then recoat with clear. Make sure you test it out to make sure it is compatible with new clear coat do a small unconspicuous area first. thats what i would do anyways, anyone else.
214713
For what purpose? Probably paint thinner, mineral spirits, or acetone. These are only suggestions and not proven. Try at you're own risk.
321400
I just recently moved into a house that is the "elderly" wall paper universe... I feel your pain.  Providing that it is actual wall PAPER rather than vinyl (vinyl just peels off no matter how old it is), I found the easiest thing to do was to take a good quality paper towel, wet the heck out of it, and stick it to the wall for 5-10 minutes.  Come back, grab an edge of the paper, and peel away.  Alot of people are fans of using a scorer, but that just makes a ton of little pieces, instead of ripping a good size amount at a time.  There are lots of chemicals they sell to peel wall paper, but I found the cost effective road was the best for me.  Good luck, and please let me know if you find anything better.
248437
It will entirely depend on what areas of the model are going to be out of reach of the paint brush and also what areas you don't care whether they are painted or not.\n\nPlan out the pieces and decide. For example, if you were to paint a 3D model of a human soldier that comes with a shield that crosses his chest, decide if you want the inside of the shield painted or not. Also, decide if you want to paint the chest area behind the shield BEFORE you permanently attach the shield.\n\nThe more you allow yourself to paint AFTER assembly, the faster the job will get done but with the possible sacrifice of detail.\n\n-TGW-
225958
You'll spend $2000 to $3000 for a nice paintjob where you won't see any dings or flaws in paint.  Or you can take it to Earl Schieb and get the $99 paint job but it will look like hell in 6 months.
1035975
Small area:  Use paint remover (paint stripper for furniture).\nPaint remover (the original kind) uses methylene chloride to soften the paint so it can be removed easily.  Problem:  methylene chloride evaporates very quickly.  Possible solution:  after applying the stripper, put a plastic polyethlyene sheet over the paint to keep the methylene chloride from evaporating so quick (work on cool days/evenings too).  Methylene chloride works on epoxy based paints which are normally chemically resistant.  Methylene chloride is becoming harder to get because of VOC requirements and CFC considerations.\n\nLarge area:  use sodium hydroxide (lye) or Drano crystals or similar caustic.  **Concentrated** (saturated solution) lye will soften the paint so it can be brushed away.  Its less expensive than paint stripper.\n\nPLEASE READ CAREFULLY:  \n\nYou are going to have a disposal problem - don't wash it down the drain or you may be fined.  The EPA monitors the drains for polluters.  \n\nThese are very hazardous chemicals that require respirators, adequate air, protective chemical equipment (rubber gloves, face shields), the area needs to be isolated so a pet or kids don't come in contact with the chemicals.  If you won't take these precautions or don't know what you're doing, call a professional.  Truly.\n\nFor the methylene chloride residue: pickup the old paint residue and let it dry out.  Then you can dispose of the residue in plastic bags in the garbage (dry paint is considered non-hazardous in most areas, but not all - contact your waste management service).\n\nThe lye will soften the paint and can be dried out, but even the dried crystals can be hazardous if water is re-introduced - you may be able to neutralize the waste with a weak acid like vinegar to neutral pH, and then dry it out and dispose of it.  You'll need some pH strips to test for neutral pH.  Dried, neutral pH paint can be disposed the same way as regular dried paint - the exact method depends on where you live and your waste disposal service.  Most areas have free disposal days for hazardous waste if you are otherwise required to pay.\n\nBE CAREFUL with powerful chemicals and USE PRECAUTIONS so you don't hurt yourself, or others.\n\nAnother method: Sandblast.  Look up a sandblast service in the Yellow pages and they'll come out with their portable blasting unit.  Paint removal is their job.  I can't advise further because I don't know the constraints, paint type, substrate, enclosed area, etc.  \n\nMost paints are acid-resistant to some degree, so muratic isn't effective; most paints ARE vulnerable to alkaline solutions (but not all).  Concrete is an alkaline material, so won't be attacked to the same degree as with nuratic acid.  Muratic acid will attack and eat up the concrete (maybe that's what you want, but probably not).