does anybody know how to ELEVATE A BIKE"S SEAT and keep it that way?
474487
You probably have a seatpost quick release on your bike. It's probably tight enough that you can't move it with your hands, but when you sit on it, there's far greater force being exerted that is causing the seatpost to slide back into the seattube on the frame.\n\nYou need to ensure that the quick release is tight enough when you flip the lever shut (you don't screw a quick release lever shut; it relies on the compression that comes with the cam-type of action the lever offers).\n\nIf that still doesn't work, I'd replace the quick release with a standard seatpost fixing bolt (non-quick release).
241574
I can take my bike off of sweet jumps
1166603
I'm not sure what you're asking here but I'm guessing you're looking for ideas as to what to build?  If that is so, someone needs to invent a better type of ramp or hoist to load motorcycles onto the back of pick-up trucks.  All the old guys who can afford motorcycles nowadays, are having a really tough time finding a spot to load their bikes.  A heavy bike is kind of scary to drive up a ramp....something better is needed now!  If you invented one that worked, I would buy it!  If you contact me, leave your email as many are unvalidated with Yahoo and I can't respond.
813624
If it's an old chair, it's possible that spinning the chair will raise or lower it.  Otherwise, it's possible the raise/lower lever has fallen off and you can order a new one of those (look on the bottom of the chair).  Or, it's possible that the chair cannot be adjusted.  (the knob is just a tension adjustment as you recline...it has nothing to do with raising or lowering the chair)
580614
Yes, you're thinking of a recumbent bicycle. Some of them have steering mechanisms near/under the seat, while others have handlebars. You can attach a "fairing" to the front of some recumbents, which is a transparent "window" that reduces air drag and helps keep rain and wind from affecting your ride and level of comfort.
362202
Lift the bike above your head with one hand and apply the oil with the other while using your head to rotate the pedals \n\nImportant safety precaution: Wear goggles to keep oil splashes out of your eyes and a crash helmet because the pedals keep hitting you in the back of the head and then you drop the bike.\n\nEasy!!
1183913
all this advice you have received so far is a bit skewed and lacking practicality.  first off, if your bike is small enough, you can lower your seat, and take off the pedals.  good pedals require a 15mm wrench to remove, cheap ones a 1/2'' wrench, the one on the non drive side is reverse treaded, ie left is tighter... dropping your saddle and removing the pedals allow you to push around with your feet, and let you instantly put a foot down if you feel scared.  i would push around in a garage or in an empty parking lot, until you get the hang of even being on a bike.  adult training wheels are a bad idea, they train you to let the training wheels balance you, making you more or less rely on something that soon wont be there....
1086196
It is called a recumbent or sometimes known as a "bent".  There are some very active, internet savy communities of bent fans out there.  I am sure an internet search will show   This is a sample http://www.bicyclinglife.com/PracticalCycling/FancyBikes.htm\n\nYou can find them generally through the better bike shops or at times through dealers who operate out of their houses.  \n\nThese bikes are low to the ground.  They fly downhill because of this and are many times harder and slower to get up hill.  I know some like them because they can be easier on your back.  Recumbents riders tend to be passionate about their bikes. I know several of them and they just take them everywhere.  A guy I ride with occassionally is getting ready to do the Race Across America on a bent.  \n\nHave fun on your search.  There are so many resources out there that will go into much more detail that I will leave you on your own to search.
348617
There is no set way, I put my woods at the top, my hybrids on the side, my 6,7,8,9 under my woods and my wedges at the bottom, my bag also comes with an area to put my putter as well.\nJust arange them they way you want and that make you Happy!:)
719784
For this terrain, one would suggest a "Double Boinger" or in other words, a full suspension mountain bike. \n\nThese can be quite expensive, so one may substitute a "regular" mountain bike, also called a hardtail.  These have front shocks and no rear suspension, and they cost a lot less.  \nMake up the difference by using a springer saddle or a suspension seatpost. Either seatpost or springer saddle will cost about $20 each bike, so this method is far less expensive than a "Double Boinger" style.  \n\nAt the $20 price range, the springer saddle is more reliable technology, and they were once considered a "required" part of the enjoyment of cycling.  Bike shops have quite a variety and so does www.bikepartsusa.com and amazon.com.  Avoid the "Web Spring" or "Mattress" variety and just go with the easy and simple two steel spring or two rubber spring sort to get some very enjoyable results.      \n\nWhile it is best to purchase your bikes from a real bike store, Schwinn and Diamondback will always give you usable quality bikes with name brand components at every price point.  So, if you get a very cheap bike, do make sure it is one of those two brands.  These can be found at Target in a limited selection of size ranges, but if you're taller than 5'10" then its off to the bike store with you. ;)  \nLower priced options exist, but will cost you a great deal in repairs and lost enjoyment. \n\nIMPORTANT:  The point of sizing is to get a bike that makes you WANT to go cycling.  Don't settle for less than that.  \n\nIMPORTANT:  In any case, make certain that the rear derailer has the name "Shimano" or the name "SRAM" printed directly on it. \n\nFor your son.  Get him as large a bike as he can stand over with at least an inch "clearance" to the top tube.  It is not important if he can reach the ground from the seat, as that's not correct seat adjustment anyway--legs need to straighten fully when pedaling.  Just make sure that he can stand over it and that it doesn't look like a toy.  \n\nFor you, the same sizing applies, but for a different reason.  Make sure that the bike is large enough to give you a comfortable reach for the handlebars.\n\nWhile it is possible to re-size (UP) the $139 Schwinn mountain bike, the cost of the stem riser adapter and stronger seat post, plus installation, may inflate the price of the bike up to a bike-store-bike price, and you might as well just get the right size to start with.  That's why I said that if you're over 5'10" then you really do need to go to the bike store.  A Diamondback, Raliegh, or Schwinn dealer can still get you a good price.
545213
jus click on it and hold it down..\nand drag it to where you want.
809719
Ignore the idiot above.\n\nHang 5s are the devil's trick, they are so difficult it is untrue.\n\nI don;t know what your problem is, you didn;t give nay info so I'll just try to go through them.\n\nYou can learn the balance point without having to ride into them by standing on a curb and just gettin gthe bike in the right position to balance over the front with your foot on whichever peg you want it to be on.\n\nOK, so if you have a basic idea of where the balance point is likely to be (it wil change when you start to move in the position) you can start to ride in to it.\n\nYou want to be riding slowly about walking pace when you learn, so that you don;t die when you flip over the front... it iwll happen... alot.  In fact, people tell you that you need to fip over to learn the balance point, just like you do for manuals.\n\nI am going to go through brakeless hang 5s, but you can just add in your brakes whenever you think you need them if you run them.\n\nSO, walking pace, feet on pedals.  In one movement, shift your weight forward, put whichever foot you want on the peg to the peg, with your weight over it and kick the back of the bike up with your other foot by pulling back on the pedal. That should all mean that the back has lifted and you are in the hang 5 position, except your foot is on the pedal.  SO take it off and use it as a counter-balance.\n\nYou want your seat to be wedged in your butt crack.  Try to keep relatively upright, rather than crouched over the front, as you will be able to move and balance more easily.\n\nComing out is easy, just shift your non-peg foot to the pedal and lean back.  Put your peg foot to pedal and ride off.\n\nHope that helps.\n\nhttp://www.westernveil.com/
469509
Try hanging upside down from the celing with some weights in your hand.
602945
when you sit on a bike seat, it's your 'ischial tuberosities', or 'sit bones' that take most of your weight - these are the bony bits at the bottom of your butt. everyone has different sit bones, and it really is just a case of some seats not suiting some butts.\n\nwomen's sit bones are further apart, so this is why women-specific seats are wider, but obviously there's a lot of variation between different people of the same gender. it may be that this seat just doesn't suit you.\n\nhowever, before you go and buy a gel cover or a different seat, try altering the angle (if your seat is adjustable) and the height. as a starting point your legs should almost be straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke (not too straight as your hips will rock side-to-side, and that will hurt!), and the top of the seat should be almost flat. if that's still not right, then try tweaking it a little. half and inch forward / back / up / down or a couple of degrees tilt forward or back can make a lot of difference.\n\nthe other thing to consider is the handlebar height and reach - make sure that's comfy too.
229087
Yes it's possible but a lot will depend on sprocket ratios & where your weight is distributed & how good a rider you actually are but it can & has been done.\nTips for a stoppie: practice on an OLD bike first!
570982
i'd start with stabilising wheels attached either side of the rear wheel - get some with height adjustability. Once she's happy pedalling round on these and getting a bit of speed up (a week or two?), I'd then move them both upwards half an inch.\n\nThis way, once riding at speed, neither stabilising wheel will actually be touching the ground, and she'll(unwittingly) get her first taste of 'balance'.\n\nthen, after another week or so, slide them up again. as long as they're on the bike, she will feel secure and will eventually be riding round with no assistance from the stabilisers, even when cornering.\n\nthe next step is to remove them altogether, which is usually the 'big moment'. Find a flat grassy area, and get her to just 'ride'. You may have to support the bike by holding the back of the seat to begin with, but she really will pick it up in no time. i guess a helmet, long sleeves and trousers, and possibly gloves would help to protect against the inevitable spills.\n_____________________\n\nthe other option, is to get them something like this while they're really young:\n\nhttp://www.wooden-bike.co.uk/index.php\n\nhttp://www.islabikes.co.uk/bike_pages/rothan.html\n\nThey'll get used to balancing while pushing themselves around, the idea being that you can skip the stableising wheels altogether when they graduate to their first 'proper' bike.\n\ngood luck - it's a really fantastic moment when they ride on their own for the first time.
772547
Increase your elevation or find a court with less gravitational force.   It's  a physics thing.