How do I put together a 20" BMX bike?
457646
Theres way too many steps to tell you over the internet. Go to your local bike shop because it really depends on the parts you have and the different types and sizes. This is not really the best place to ask that question but good luck!\n\nPS-you will need a crecent wrech(preferably 2) a screwdriver, alan wrenches, some automitive grease(the black sticky stuff) and some free time.
1035603
Make sure to wear a helmet and shoes.\n\nStart at a slow speed. You will pick up speed as you go. Pull up on the handle bars and at the same time do a strong pedal. Be careful not to pull over.  Make sure you are standing up. Any fat tire (mountain bike type) would do. The higher the handle bars the easier. Once up, try not to pedal too fast, just fast enough to keep the front end up. The more you practice, the further you can go. Try to compete against your friends.
110141
If you want a really cheap bmx, than go to your local walmart or kmart or target too.  but beware, alot of those bikes are heavy as shit and they are welded by machines, so when the welds are passed, they are turned up almost as hot as they can go, so that the machines can weld right over it as fast as possible, they ussually xray a few to make sure the welds are ok, but the truth is most bikes are ussually in the shape where they could fall apart at any second.  look into the walmart bikes, 9 different lawsuits on them.
35229
Start with a multi-cut-out prototype & tape.  Once you've figured the sizes for your parts, disassemble and use a prototype 1-piece pattern with tabs & slots to hold it together.  Work it till it works  :-)
1131192
To determine your proper frame size, you’ll first need to get an accurate inseam measurement . Stand with your back against a wall, your bare feet 6" apart on a hard floor, \nlooking straight ahead.\nPlace a book or carpenter’s square between your legs with one edge against the wall, and pull it up firmly into your crotch, simulating the pressure of your saddle while riding. Have a helper measure from the top edge of the book to the floor, in centimeters. (You can convert inches to centimeters by multiplying inches by 2.54.) Repeat two or three times, for consistency, and average the results to get your inseam length. \n\nSource(s):\nFrame size refers to the length of the frame’s seat tube. Pro frames are measured along the seat tube in one of two ways, center-to-top (C-T) or center-to-center (C-C). C-T measures the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the top tube or seat lug (See image bellow). C-C measures from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Since C-T measures to a point higher on the frame, a frame measuring 55cm C-T would also measure roughly 53.5–54cm C-C, a difference of 1–1.5cm.\n\nTo size your C-T road frame, we use a guideline of .67 x inseam length. For example, if you have an 85cm inseam, your C-T frame size would be .67 x 85cm, or 57cm.\n\nLeMond’s formula, from his former coach, Cyrille Guimard, establishes C-C size by the formula .65 x inseam length, which yields virtually the same frame size when you add the 1–1.5cm difference between C-C and C-T. \n\nLarger riders (6'0" and up) may find that this formula puts them on a too small, and uncomfortable, road frame. A taller cyclist who wants a more comfortable frame may be better off selecting a frame 27–28cm less than inseam length, C-T.\n\nFor a mountain bike, we start by recommending a frame in the range of 10–12cm smaller than you take in a road frame. For example, if you ride a 55cm C-T road frame, look for a 43–45cm (17–18") C-T mountain frame
941861
For the perfect "bike fit" do this:\n1. Raise your seat so you can comfortably extend your legs to the pedals. \n2. With your heal on the middle of the pedal, and the pedal in the lowest position (6 o'clock), your leg should be fully extended with your knees locked. \n3. Now put the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal as it is still in the lowest most position.  Your knee should have a slight bend.\n4. To check your "fore & aft" position, have a friend hold your bicycle and put your pedals in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions or parallel to the ground.  Have your friend hang a string with a washer tied to the end of it (plum bob) from the front of your knee cap.  The washer should be touching the end of the crank arm.  If it is furhter away or behind it, adjust the position of your seat accordingly. \n5. If you still have knee pain, go to your local bike shop and have them fit you professionally.\n\nhope this helps!
41775
You can spend a lot of money. If money is no object, I'd skip Trek, Felt, Specialized, Giant, and all of the other mass produced bikes out there.\n\nGo with a reputable custom builder that will size you up and build a bike that will fit you like a glove. You'll be much happier with the end result.\n\nOff the top of my head, you have Cyfac, Seven, Serotta, Calfee, Bob Jackson, and more...
386201
If you want to build it up original, check out http://www.vintagebmx.com\n\nMany people on that board swap and rebuild BMX bikes.
921794
If you can get the parts it shouldn't be too hard to put together.  I suggest you try it yourself first as it is fairly straight forward.
492124
ebay would be a good start! http://search.ebay.com/3-wheel-adult-bike_W0QQfnuZ1QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQxpufuZx
448208
Assemble the necessary equipment: a roll of 1- to 2-inch-wide athletic tape and a pair of scissors. (Image 1)  \n  \n2.   Wrap one piece of athletic tape under the heel of the foot and bring both ends up the ankle to either side of the leg. The tape should form a "U," like the stirrup on a horse's saddle. (Image 2)  \n  \n3.   Affix the tape to the skin just behind the knobby bone that juts out on either side of the ankle, pressing the tape firmly along the little groove behind the bone. (Image 3)  \n  \n4.   Wrap a second piece of tape around the base of the heel, bringing the ends of the tape along either side of the foot, heading for the toes. It should form a 90-degree angle with the first piece of tape. (Image 4)  \n  \n5.   Wrap a third piece of tape under the heel and up either side of the foot and ankle in the same manner as you wrapped the first piece of tape. Position the tape so that it runs adjacent to the first piece of tape - it should fall right over the knobby anklebone that juts out.  \n  \n6.   Wrap a fourth piece of tape around the heel, running just above and adjacent to the second piece of tape, with the ends again heading for the toes along both sides of the foot. You now have the basic structure for the "basket weave" - overlapping pieces of tape that wrap around the heel, extend to the toe, wrap under the heel and climb up to the ankle. (Image 5)  \n  \n7.   Apply about eight more pieces of tape in this manner - four adjacent strips of tape that wrap around the heel pointing toward the toes, and four adjacent strips that wrap under the heel and head up the ankle. Alternating between strips that run along the foot and strips that run up the ankle will give you a weave that limits mobility and supports the entire ankle. (Image 6) \n\n\nSee images by following the link:
331608
America Speedster has both plans and kits for some very interesting quadracycles.  Some are built from pvc using hand tools and recycled bike parts.  See the link below.\n\nSometimes there are plans advertised on e-bay but some of them are just photocopies from old mechanics magazines.
1149440
Get thee to your local bikeshop and get fitted.  The professionals can help you and make sure you are buying the right size bike for your body.
570010
Hi there,\n\nHere are some great websites that explain the entire process:\n\nhttp://www.rcskim.com/makeaboard/How%20to%20build%20a%20skimboard.html\n\nhttp://www.skimonline.com/equipment/board_building.htm\n\nhttp://www.surfing-waves.com/howto/make_skimboard.htm
223746
Keep checking online. I did print out plans with sources of material last year.  Also, there are finished frames for sale. Maybe Instructables? There are projects for welding bikes,
88000
lift kit\ndon't overload it\nbigger tires\nbetter suspension
499264
In general...\n\nIf it's an aluminum frame, trash it. If it's carbon, trash it. If it's an older steel frame, depending on how bad it is, you could possibly straighten the frame by taking it to your local bike shop (a reputable one, not somewhere like Performance Bike) and have them cold set it. Ideally they'll have a frame table as well to get everything perfect.\n\nIn your case, it sounds like you either have a problem with your forks, or the front end of the bike is twisted. You're pretty much outta luck here. Time for a new frame.\n\nGood luck!