how do you adjust the r.d. cable tension?
472691
There should be a barrel adjuster on your rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt. You can either increase or decrease the cable tension as necessary by turning it incrementally. \n\nIf your chain seems to want to shift past the cog that you're shifting to, then your cable tension is too high. If it's not quite making it to the cog, then your cable tension is too low.
758251
goto your printing settings/options and adjust the settings there
935130
Lower the Total Dynamic Head (THD= psi x 2.31)
762824
The answer to this is actually pretty simple - and it applies to the Christmas lights, too.\n\nThe cable (or wire) that the signal passes through is formed of multiple strands of much finer conductor, twisted to form a (relatively) uniform outer surface to which the insulating jacket is bound.\n\nOver time, you'll tend to pull the cord into longer and longer lengths ... with one of two results. Either the twist gets tighter (and the cord appears slightly thinner), or the twist gets looser.\n\nIn either instance, the "memory" of the wire will want to try and return it to its initial configuration (including tightness of twist). Once the stress is off the conductor, back it goes! And probably snarls itself in the occurrence, because you've tried to pack it away in the EXTENDED configuration.\n\nKnotting is another phenomenon entirely. In this case, relative motion of the gathered conductor bundle tends to "slip" one loop against the next. In the extreme, what used to be the outside loop becomes the inside loop ... and you have a potential knot. Unknowingly, you reach in and grab the "new" inside loop and pull ... thereby completing the slippage and you now definitely have a knot!
1104231
Pull it back up.  What else could I do?
621252
a cable that is latched.
177667
I find these kind of adjustments are usually better left to a trained professional. what seems like an easy fix can sometimes make things worse than they were when you started.\nIf you choose to attempt it, most derailers have a couple of adjusting screws for fine adjustments. this is where i would start but remeber how many turns of each screw you have made so you can always turn back to where you started if needed.\nIf this doesnt get you to hwere you need to be, then the cables have stretched and need to be adjusted. This requires you to loosen the screw that holds the cable and pull it tighter while tightening the screw again. Like i said before. I would suggest taking it somewhere.
284019
Your derailer needs adjusting, you can find how to do this on lOAds of cycling web pages.\nBasically you have to adjust the two screws so you can get the biggest and smallest gears then you need to adjust the cable tension to be able to select the gear straight away.\n\nTo do this put the gear leaver in the second SMALLEST gear and adjust the cable tension untill the derailer is in that gear. Then slightly adjust the cable adjuster to it changes smoothly up and down. \nNow recheck the top and bottom limit screws to make sure the chain does not run off the biggest or smallest cogs.\nAny probs let me know.
686255
your problem is statically determinate. so, use static equations to calculate the tensile force in the cable. maximum sag will occur at the center of the cable where the load should be placed.\n\nyoure asking for deflection and the force. it cannot be. the maximum allowable sag should be used to calculate the tensile force, either, calculate the sag using the allowable tensile force. this can be solve based on the area of the section and the allowable stress.\n\nI hope I was able to answer your question. better if you could send me the figure. my email is exaatto2000@yahoo.com or rbra_engrs@yahoo.com\n\nruel
646572
One method\n\nhttp://ift.confex.com/ift/2002/techprogram/paper_10516.htm
355318
yes the spring tension should be adjustable see a gunsmith or read a book also   wipe all the parts that move with a jewelers clothe and they will move smoother together thets an old army shooting team trickdont forgit to oil up the parts that you  fine tune  good luck
321182
Pressure tight cables are available. Moreover if the entire length of the cable is under the same pressure, any ordinary power Cable will do.
704473
The stress in the cable is m*g/A.  The Young's modulus of steel is about 200*10^9 N/m^2 (pascal).  Therefore the strain will be\n\nm*g*/(A*200*10^9).\n\nThe elongation is strain*length.\n\nFor the second part, replace g above with (g+a), where a =2.7m/s^2\n\nFor the last, compute the mass from S = m*(g+a)/A, The elastic limit is Sm, so the max mass is m = Sm*A/(g+a)\n\nNote: keep the units straight.  Use kg, m, sec, N in all calcs then convert to the asked-for units last.
926220
Use a floating point, or gimbaled hydralic plates to adjust as needed. this is also a known Earthquake Resistant design.
722258
have fun with it!!  pull out some scrap fabric and try them all, just make sure to adjust your tension from least to most, not most to least.  this can break your needle and also break the thread making it a pain in the booty.
179405
A flexible iron strip or wire would be a start. You could tack, screw or glue the strip running down the middle of the track. Mount magnet(s) on the bottom of the coaster and adjust the height so the force holds against gravity (if your coaster has to run upside-down).
755299
I would guess you have a derailleur problem, freewheel or cassette it doesn't matter or make a difference.\nThe 1st thing to address would be make sure your tension bolt is adjusted to the proper tension.\n\nIf this doesn't work you may have to adjust your high and low adjustment screws which will adjust your pulleys with your top and low gear.\nThis is done by shifting to the lowest gear and turning the low adjustment screw or bolt so that the guide pulley moves to a position directly below the low gear and then repeat the process again using the high end adjustment bolt with your highest gear.\n\nAfter that try adjusting the adjustment bolt, it's on the back of the derailleur the one the cable runs through.\n1st put your bike on a stand and put your chain on the second smallest gear and turn the crank slowly, if your chain is touching 3rd gear turn the adjustment bolt clockwise until the chain noise is gone.\n If it's touching 1st gear then turn it counterclockwise until the noise is gone. \nFollowing the procedure should solve your problem.