i need to change a ht lead on a honda cr 125ccdirt bike. how?
469222
u can change with a litlle compasion!
919062
Yeah 'cos there's nothing you can't fix with WD40 and a hammer eh!\n\nIf you look on the top of the derailleur you will two screws one marked H or high, the other L or Low. Shift into the big ring on the front then adjust the H screw to allow the derailleur to move further out. This should fix it.
774740
You should probably get new tubes and also tires.  Just check the size on the sidewall of the tire and buy tubes to match.  If you are unsure of your tire/tube changing skills then take your bike to a dealer and have them do it for you.  You should also get an inspection/tune up while you're at it since you haven't ridden it for so long.
533124
all you need to know is this:\nhttp://www.lowriderbike.com/\n\nits the bible of lowridin bikes..\nall your problems are solved :D
1037503
Check out this photo for proper chain configuration-\n\nhttp://152.10.254.216/images/Shimano_XTR_derailleur0_DSC.jpg
1103168
In addition to the above answers, look at how the cable is routed - any sharp bends, or the cable not being seated properly in the levers will give you a hard time. If you raised the bars it will raise the cable housing with it, and it will now be too short and causing the brakes to drag or be inneffective.\n\nWhat type of pads did you replace the old ones with? If department store-type, you can't expect much from these. Get some decent pads from the bike shop and give it another go if this isi the case.\n\nThe brakes themselves may be adjusted too tight or corroded at the pivot point(s). They should easily move back to thier resting position if you squeeze them by hand.\n\nAlso, if you have linear-pull (or "v") brakes and a lever designed for sidepulls or cantilevers you can adjust all day and not get any better. Soemtimes, on department store bikes, these are mis-matched right from the factory and you'll need to get the correct levers for the brakes.
257243
Try this link:\n\nhttp://www.biketiresdirect.com/categories.asp?cat=ti&tnum=147887&c=197068
444400
http://hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0211hon_swap/
886823
Not only will this tell you all the names of the parts you need but also how to service them properly. http://www.parktool.com/repair/ just mouse over the bike at the bottom right as you pass over the parts it tells ya what they are and gives you the option of service instructions, a great site for anyone that wants to learn (I know theres a few people on here answering questions that could use this link too) Good luck man and remember "To air is human and to bail just fu#kin sucks"
1091767
Could you use lead solder?
339130
it should say in the manual handbook tat u got wit the bike
819851
I'm not familiar with the brand. Most adjustments are on the handlebars by the throttle. If it is a chinese brand then good luck and shame on you.
644265
You could apply Singer Sewing Machine oil to parts that have rusted.  You can find a convenient little plastic tube of this at Kroger grocery stores and many other places.\n\nIt is also possible to pull out the inside of the shift cable, oil it with that and put it back together. \n\nFor a cable that runs "bare" steel down part of the bicycle:\nIt is possible to lubricate this by simply sliding the outer part of the cable off of what you want to oil.  Pull it free from where it attaches to the frame and slide it over the bare part of the cable.  Oil all of the steel cable.  \n\nFor a completely solid shift cable:\nThe shift cable is 1) unscrewed from the rear derailleur,  2) housing (outer jacket) is removed (may have to remove a small aluminum cap from the derailleur end of the cable), 3) steel inner cable is oiled, 4) any kinks removed from the cable, 5) outer jacket is reinstalled, 6) clamp the end back onto the derailleur where it came from.\n\nIf this doesn't work at all, remove the rear wheel and check to make sure that the freewheel (5 gear cluster) doesn't turn both ways.  One way should go clickity clickity, and the other way should attempt to turn the wheel.  \n\nWith the bike upside down, check to be sure that your rear derailleur moves back and forth whenever you move the shifter lever.  If it does not, check the cable again, spray the rear derailleur with WD40 (don't get that stuff near a tire!) and you may need to purchase an inexpensive shifter cable from your bike shop.\n\nIf your freewheel (5 gear cluster on the rear hub) does turn both ways by hand, then it is in need of replacement.  One particularly nice option is to purchase a replacement rear wheel (5 or 6 speed rated for screw/thread on freewheel) in the right size from bikepartsusa.com or amazon.com's Niagra Cycle.  \nYou'll also need a screw-on 5 or 6 speed freewheel.  While freewheels are extraordinarily difficult to remove, they can be installed as easily as putting the lid back on the peanut butter jar, and you can request by phone that the two parts be pre-installed.  \nThis option ($25 to $30 wheel, $15 to $19 freewheel/gears) is about the cost of getting the old one repaired at a bike shop.  \n\nWhat do you do if the rear derailleur doesn't move when you move the shift lever, replace the shift cable, and already tried WD40?  Don't worry, quite a selection of Shimano's entry level derailleurs still come with the old fashioned "claw" mount, and they work great!  A Tourney TX30 with hanger mount or TX50 with hanger mount is about $8 to $10 and is compatible with older bikes.  \nYou'll need a chain tool ($3) and a Shimano 7 speed chain $(12) to complete this installation yourself.  Remove the old chain and old rear derailleur.  Size the new chain (add an inch if your new derailler has a longer "cage" like the TX70 Mega Range that works with 6-speed 13-34 Mega-Range freewheel for mountain gears--for both, add two inches), install the new derailleur, put the new chain on, insert the too-long looking Shimano connector pin (using the chain tool, pin goes--pointy end first), and snap off the excess end of the connector pin.  This is all in the directions that come with Shimano's 7 speed chains #'s HG50 and HG70.  \n\nSuitable oils for rusted bike components include Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 3-n-1 oil, and motorcycle chain oil.  Do not use car oil!  WD40 works in an emergency, but it can dissolve rubber tires and shift cable jackets.  After an initial break-in period, even these oils will attract dirt.  Remove this with dark green formula Simple Green household cleaner, rinse with water and dry with a hair-dryer or towel.  Reapply lightweight oil or use Mountain Bike wax-based chain lube if you want it to stay clean more easily or live on gravel roads.  \n\nHave fun, and remember that by removing the rear wheel, you can more easily find out what part isn't working right.\n\nfor
750571
No, don't drill it.\n\nthe valve type is PRESTA, dude\nthere are two types of valves out there, shrader and presta.\n\nyou can twist the top part like a screw, that is the part (like the cap) for a normal valve, that holds the air in securely. you twist that looser, then put the presta pump on the valve, flip the switch  on the head part, then pump. when it is done pumping, flip back the switch and take the pump off. (DONE)\n\npresta is found on bikes that are more expensive (not wal-mart junk)\n\nSimply go to a bike shop, ask for a tire in your size but in presta.\npronounced    "Press-tuh" (but quickly)\n\nIt is a better type of valve, you can get an adaptor cheap at your LBS (Local Bike Shop) (or REI) for a couple bucks, or you can buy a nice, sturdy pump (presta) with a gauge for 30-40 bucks. Don't try to fill it up at the gas station, that would be stupid. (please)\n\nI don't suggest drilling the other hole (if you must) by yourself.\n\ncheck out this site, and scroll down to "Presta"\nhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html\n\nMy idea: Buy a pump (presta) for 30-40 bucks, and get a couple adaptors just in case\n\nIt might have clipless pedals, if you have not seen these pedals before\n\np.s. google "presta" and "presta adaptor"\n\n\nP.P.S.  NICE BIKE!\nNew, it's 1600 w/o tax but with police add-ons, it's alot more.
137648
locate a dealer and ask them...there are diffrent levels options ect...
1183062
1)frame size: 1 to 2 inches stand over height, not including frames with sloped top tube (compact geometry)\n2)saddle height: put pedal @  6 o'clock and 12 o'clock; on the one that is @ 6'oclock put your heel on the pedal and adjust the seat height so there is a slight bend in the knee\n3)seat fore/aft position: when the pedals are @ 3 and 9 o'clock, use the pedal at 9 or the one closest to front of bike, run a plumb line from an inch below the kneecap to the ground, the line should pass through the pedal spindle for a neutral set\n4) reach or stem length: traditional frame= put hands in curved part of h-bars & look at where the h-bars go thru the stem, the front hub should line up with the h-bars. for compact geometry put you hands on the brake hoods and the h-bar should line up eith the front hub. The link is a rough idea of how to fit a road bike that has a straight top tube. You'll need to fine tune things so it is comfortable for you. If you can't read it, e-mail me & I'll send ya the pic (photobucket shrinks things). icrashalot@yahoo.com
733126
Try asking in the recumbent section of Bike Forums on the link below, users of this type of bike may be able to help you:\n\nhttp://www.bikeforums.net/\n\nGood Luck