What kind of Primer and Paint should I use on steel exterior doors? Stain for fiberglass entry door?
467552
any oil based primer and paint for steel doors. usually u don't pait fiber glass but if u must it should be done in an acrilic spray if avalibale
1099423
Paints with stain resistant properties usually have very resistant (read chemically inert) resins. They may be a blend of acrylics and urethanes - typically coupled to either silicones or fluoropolymers.\n\nTEGO and BYK both make additives to add to paints to improve their stain resistance - some of these contain fluoropolymers similar to those found in "scotchgard". In order to achieve a similar effect in paints the fluoropolymer needs to be cross-linkable.
973982
i just build my snowboard box this last weekend. last year i built a 16' x 1' x 4' box and i had used plexiglass and it cracked and warped with the temperature changes, so maybe that isn't the way to go. I'm guessing you should go with treflon or perspex? or id say use the stuff from the hockey rinks which probably rang from 60$-80$. idk if i helped any.
353081
Sand old clear coat with 400 grit sandpaper till shine is gone. Dont sand the clear coat off to the paint.Then recoat with clear. Make sure you test it out to make sure it is compatible with new clear coat do a small unconspicuous area first. thats what i would do anyways, anyone else.
1059563
Hussain, your question has been sitting in the Quotation category for six days now without a reply.  Although I know the basic function of a paint dissolver, I do not know the chemical reaction, or how to size, etc.\n\nMay I suggest that you ask this question again in the Home & Garden category, where they have a sub-category - Decorating & Remodeling.  I'm sure you will find many experts there who will be able to help you.\n\nHussain, I've just checked and you are a complete newcomer to Yahoo Answers so I will direct you to Decorating & Remodeling.  First, go to the top left hand corner of this page, where you will see (in blue) the word "home", under the green ASK.  Click on that, and then when the categories appear beneath, click on Home & Garden (14 down).  You will then see the sub-categories - one of which is Decorating and Remodeling (2 down).\n\nWelcome to the family ... and good luck!
724023
Hi!\n\nHigh gloss paint is the best.\n\nEither red with brass fittings\n\nOR\n\nNavy blue with silver coloured fittings.\n\nHope this helps!
323134
sand it, to get the glossy off it, then use a good oil base primer, KILZ, then use good quality high gloss oil based latex paints and good brushes.
826040
to many variables here, how high, time frame, new or old construction, what brand of paint ,  am I going to need any specialty equiptment, any duct work to paint, any metal doors, overhead doors,\nmost of the time you cant get a sq ft price till someone sees the print or knows all the info.
964838
The best way to do this, unless you are experienced with refinishing, is to take the bike COMPLETELY apart... all the parts, drive out all the bearing cups, everything that isn't painted to begin with, then have the frame sandblasted (or blasted with walnut shell if it is aluminum) and take it to an auto body shop. Once the frame is blasted it MUST be primered almost immediately or it will start to rust in hours. Someone at the shop will likely paint it for you pretty cheap. \n\nIf you want to try it yourself with spray cans, do this:\nFirst, you shouldn't use ENAMEL unless you have it professionally applied and baked on. Spray cans are formulated to be used in a wide range of temperatures and humidities so they never dry "just right". Even if you got fancy with some tin foil and spotlights you would probably only end up with an even softer finish.\n\nHere is a quick (sort of) process to follow:\n\n1) After completely disassembling the bike have it sandblasted to remove ALL the finish.\n2) Spray it as soon as possible with grey sandable lacquer primer. Duplicolor paint is all lacquer, I think, and you can get it from your local autoparts store. Buy the BIG cans, not the small ones. Apply at least 3 coats, 1/2 hour apart. Don't worry about light runs for now.\n3) Wait at least 48 hours. Sand the primer using 220 grit aluminum oxide paper (white in color) until the surface is smooth. It shouldn't take much unless you have a lot of runs.\n4) Using a tack rag, lightly go over the entire frame (don't rub!) to remove the sanding dust.\n5) Apply several light coats (6 or 7 perhaps) of the color of your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Again, use LACQUER, the same brand that you used for primer. Apply coats 1/2 hour apart. Be sure you cover every part and do NOT get runs. If you get runs you are applying it too heavily.\n6) Apply the LACQUER clear cost, perhaps 6 coats.\n7) Let the frame alone until you can't smell the paint anymore when you get up close and take a big whiff. If you can smell it, it ain't dry! This will take 2 to 3 days at least.\n8) Using white paste polishing compound, follow the directions and polish out the whole frame.\n9) Do NOT wax or wash for at least 10 days.\n\nIf you rush this you will end up with a sloppy mess and you'll kick yourself for ever trying. However, if you take your time and do it right it'll be a very cool feeling.
196135
go to your local auto parts store and buy a can of fiberglass resin.(around 10.00)then get the fiberglass cloth.(around 5.00)now,sand around the hole in your boat at least 1" from the outer edges.apply some fiberglass resin with a small paint brush,but not to thick.cut a piece of the cloth to cover the resin.apply another layer of fiberglass resin over the cloth.take the end of your brush tips and gently stab untill you see all of the air bubbles dissapear.let set-up.if you want you can repeat on other side.the can of fibberclass and cloth will last you for years and will come in handy for future repairs. lol.
888545
the same methods as with fiberglass. If you want a good finish the parts should be reverse laid into the mold with a gel layer. If it is a completed project you still need to sand it and put on a layer of gel-coat before sanding and finishing. Depending on the material used in laying up the part you might get ways with auto body glaze. The material matters because glass is usually laid up will plastic but carbon is sometimes laid up with Epoxy for greater strength.
186001
u forgot to put the foloowings to choose from...\nbut still here are some ideas for u...\nTO PREVENT RUST, KEEP METAL SURFACE DRY - OR ADD A COATING \nRust is corrosion that affects ferrous metals such as iron and steel. In many cases, water vapor must be in the air before rust can occur. With iron, for example, 40 percent humidity must be present before rust will start to occur. The best way to prevent corrosion is to keep metal surfaces dry. Isolating the metal by coating it with paint, lacquer or wax is another good way to prevent corrosion. \n\nBefore coating a metal surface, remove all traces of rust. Then apply a primer and finish with paint. It's best if the paint and primer are the same brand; they usually are formulated to work together. Metals such as brass, copper or aluminum are best protected with either wax or by spraying them with lacquer or clear varnish. \n\nRust also can attack metal in inaccessible areas. Corrosion occurs inside a home hot-water heater, for example, because the ions circulating in the water make it easy for dissolved oxygen to pull the electrons from the interior surface of the metal tank. \n\nRust that occurs in localized areas is called localized corrosion. There are three types: galvanic, crevice and pitting. \n\n- Galvanic corrosion: It occurs whenever two dissimilar metals contact each other. This creates a flow of electrons between the metals that eventually causes them to disintegrate. One way to prevent this corrosion is to replace one metal piece with another that is compatible with the mating piece.\n\nFor example, many aluminum storm doors have steel rivets holding the hinges or closing piston in place. Often, corrosion starts around these fasteners, then works to the adjacent aluminum panels. Drilling the corroded fasteners out and replacing them with aluminum pop-rivets will stop the galvanic corrosion before it spreads.\n\n- Crevice corrosion: It occurs around the joints and seams of metal fixtures where dirt accumulates. By itself the dirt is not particularly harmful, but it allows moisture to collect; this causes corrosion. Joint and seam corrosion is a common occurrence on gutters and downspouts. Clean them often to keep dirt and leaves, which retain moisture, from building up. If rust is present, remove it with a flexible sanding wheel chucked in an electric drill, then prime and paint the bare metal.\n\n- Pitting corrosion: It occurs outdoors when the wind bombards metal surfaces with minute particles of dirt, salt or sand and creates microscopic craters that retain moisture. At first, the corrosion is limited, then quickly escalates into a formidable problem. Outdoor electrical conduits, television antenna masts, metal windows and doors, and children's play equipment are a few of the items that receive constant assault from air-borne particles and are subject to pit corrosion. This type of corrosion is severe near the seashore and is most noticeable on the side of the house that faces the prevailing winds. Check exposed metal surfaces often; sand and paint them if they show signs of pitting.
406887
i am a spray painter may i suggest you talk to your local bodyshop or panel beater and get some advice\ni often paint item in woodgrain brushed alloy and many other type of unique finishes\ntry website  at alsacorp.com\nalthough automtive based can give you some ideas to talk with your local smash reparer\ntip auto paint is not cheap but you are looking for a unique finish\nit may be worth it\nregards\nmatt
408690
Get it down to the bare metal by taking it to a shop that does glass beading.  This is very similar to sandblasting.\n\nApply a good primer.  Ideally, you can get access to a pneumatic gravity feed sprayer used on automive finishes.  This will produce a superior finish to the spray can.
388806
try \nTHUNDERBIRD EPOXY\nENDURANCE BOW FINISH.\nlink below.
214713
For what purpose? Probably paint thinner, mineral spirits, or acetone. These are only suggestions and not proven. Try at you're own risk.
396873
First, comfort your wife!  Then ask the people who are staining the fence what they are using.  Most stains do not contain lead any longer--just like most paints don't contain it any more--I'm pretty sure it's illegal for the manufacturers to use lead in those types of products now, but older stains and paints may still have some lead in it.  It usually isn't harmful unless you ingest the stuff.  Just keep your kids away from the fence until it is dry and don't let them eat or handle any of the old scrapped off stain.  Clean it up as best as you can, what you can't get picked up should be washed away with water--lots and lots of water.  If it is the neighbors fence, and is totally on his property, he can do what ever he likes to it--unless you live in a neighborhood that has rules about things like that.  Check with your neighborhood home owners association about the rules for fencing.  If the fence is on your property or belongs to you--he can't be on your side unless you let him!  Honestly, it sounds to me like this neighbor could just be having a bad day--who knows.  For your own safety and that of your family, stay in your own yard, don't call the guy and call the police if the guy gets nasty again.