what type of oil should i use when doing an oil change on my banshee?
465476
Corn  or vegetable oil
356706
If you mean engine oils, these are ACEA performance grades:\nA3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.\n \nA5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
1105918
This is still manufactured? What do you use it for? I've used Mink Oil on my leather jacket and boots to keep them supple and waterproof. This do the same think?\n\nOr do you cook with it?
227976
You can run conventional out to a safe 5,000 miles or more, or 6 months, don't use grandma and grandpas old brain for thinking... and no you don't have to change the oil filter every 3,000 regardless, thats a waste of more money for no reason, use a name brand like wix or(wix made napa gold) and go the full distance. This should guarantee (with proper maintenance) that you'll be driving the car to the junkyard with a good engine.... Or use oil's like mobil one's 15,000 mile warranted oil, use it 15,000 miles (if you don't do alot of cold startups and short trips) and you'll still be driving it to the junk yard.
813809
One of best lubricant out there is ProLink Chain Lube. I see others are saying WD 40, I personally wouldn't use it on a bike chain because it tends to evaporate leaving you with very little lubrication.\n\nWD 40 is an excellent cleaner to clean your chain with but that's about its extent and after you're done with cleaning you need lube with something else.\n\nRemember it's the rollers inside the chain that need lubrication not the outside of the chain. So many people tend to believe that once the chain is oily that's all that's required and that would be completely wrong.\n\nProLink promotes smoother shifting, it doesn't build up like alot of lubes so there's less cleaning, and you can also use it on your cables and derailleurs.and anything else that needs lubing.
1139650
motor oil is mixed in gas or if oil injected a small tank hoid the oil.  there is gear oil for lower unit two screws down by prop one under the prop shaft the other above it about 3 inches. oil will come out the upper if it is full. lower is to drain and check for water.if seal is bad
957917
Forget to give choices?\nO.K., I am giving the choices. \nBut it all depends upon the applications where it is required.\nLubricants are an essential part of modern machinery. Everything from computer hard disk drives to the Airbus A380 requires lubrication of its moving parts.\nI mean with respect to rpm of the equipment , size of the equipment , temperature of the equipment and type of the equipment.\n\nTypically lubricants contain 90% base oil (most often petroleum fractions, called mineral oils) and less than 10% additives. Vegetable oils or synthetic liquids such as hydrogenated polyolefins, esters, silicone, fluorocarbons and many others are sometimes used as base oils. Additives deliver reduced friction and wear, increased viscosity, improved viscosity index, resistance to corrosion and oxidation, aging or contamination, etc.\n\nNon-liquid lubricants include grease, powders (dry graphite, PTFE, Molybdenum disulfide, etc.), teflon tape used in plumbing, air cushion and others. Another approach to reducing friction and wear is to use bearings such as ball bearings, roller bearings or air bearings or to use sound, in the case of acoustic lubrication.\n\nLubricants such as 2-cycle oil are also added to some fuels. Sulfur impurities in fuels also provide some lubrication properties, which has to be taken in account when switching to a low-sulfur diesel; biodiesel is a popular diesel fuel additive providing additional lubricity.\n\nIn addition to automotive and industrial applications, lubricants are used for many other purposes, including K-Y Jelly, often used as a personal lubricant, bio-medical applications (e.g. lubricants for artificial joints) and others.\n[edit] Synthetic oils\nPolyalpha-olefin (PAO) \nSynthetic esters \nPolyalkylene glycols (PAG) \nPhosphate esters \nAlkylated naphthalenes (AN) \nSilicate esters \nIonic fluids \nNote: In the USA certain Group III base stocks may be designated as synthetic; typically hydrocracked oils.\n\nSolid lubricants\nGraphite \nMolybdenum disulphide \nTeflon \nBoron nitride \n\nplease visit following for more information:\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lubricant
147858
If you have an old car and u used to use older oils it is never recommended to use synthetic oils because it will detach some layers of rubbish from the engine and live 'em flying inside that could damage ur engine unless u use a flush oil before doing so and if u have a new car why not try the high standard synthetic oils?that would add some 3 HP to power\nanother aspect is starting in differnet tempretures:adding two different oils will prevent the additives and other stuff 2 work correctly resulting in bad starts and boiling water in ur engine.
1018888
Don't use WD-40...\n\nBuy Remington Oil or another light oil meant for guns -- you can get it in the Sporting section at Wal-Mart -- comes in a green/yellow spray can or bottle.\n\nI don't know if you can use a cleaning rod on air rifles, but if you can, get on and put a patch on the patch puller on the rod with oil on it and swab the barrel out.. Put a few drops (or a spray) on the joints of the moving parts too.
691986
it uses a barrel made for it.  check the threads if you wish to change it
236674
I would recommend you just put a trickle charger on the battery, change all the fluids, put some stabilizer in the gas, and leave it stored until you need it, by what your doing, you are causing more harm then good, if the oil doesn't get up to temp, it slowly collects moisture (not good) and not only that, since the oil doesn't get up to temp, the engine gets more wear.
654015
Waterbase lube should be good.But since you have a wee little wee bit...then just blow wind in it...
678110
I would think it's oil, but a more complete answer can be found on the Alberta Governement page http://www.gov.ab.ca/home/index.cfm
223241
If it is oil change your pvc valve if it is water turn your opining so it dont suck in water
962416
For the Do-it-yourselfers out there, here's how to change your own oil!\n\nYou will need the following:\n\nOil suction pump, vacuum canister type recommended\nE12 Torx bit socket\nMetric sockets (optional)\nRatchet\n3L Sea-Doo 5W-40 Mineral oil for SC, 10W-40 for NA\nNew Oil Filter\nNew oil filter canister cover and bolt o-rings (optional)\n\nMake sure the craft is level. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds.\n\nOPTIONAL\nUnsnap the cooling reserve tank from the seat brace, then remove the four bolts securing the seat brace to the hull. Set it and the air duct attached to it, off to the side.\n\nNext, use a small tube with your oil pump (we used Sea-Doo RAVE valve lines) and feed it down the dipstick tube. Remove the oil fill cap and suck out all the oil you can get, which will be 3L.\n\nNext, use an E12 torx socket to loosen the oil filter cap located right behind the engine. Pull the bolt straight up and gently wiggle the cap off with it. The cap may be difficult to remove, you can pry gently with a screwdriver between the canister and cover if you need to. Remove the old filter and replace it with a new filter. If the o-ring on the center bolt or the o-ring on the cover is damaged, replace them also. Lubricate the o-rings with engine oil and be sure to center the filter and cover while installing, making sure the o-ring lines up with the step on the filter.\n\nRefill the oil system with 3L of Sea-Doo oil and replace the dipstick. Replace the seat bracket and coolant reserve tank.
700212
oil immersion goes out to 400x I think.  low and high are 40 and 80 if memory serves.
277967
Yes! synthetics today are compatible with seals and conventional oils, now they can cause leaks in a already weak/brittle seal, or make them worse in already leaking seals. They don't attack the seals. Synthetics also pump better then their conventional counter parts in the cold (meaning less dry start wear) and stand up to higher heat without sludging. There are also oils out there that are blends.... though not half and half. Pennzoil platinum, mobil one, redline, amsoil or royal purple are all good synthetics.