How do you determine if an Iron Cross is authentic?  (Either 1st or 2nd class)  thanks.?
466842
contact the nearest va office for additional resources and your local recruiting office.  they can direct you to proper people to determine the authenticity of the iron cross.
177966
http://www.redcross.org/museum/history/ww1a.asp
1030406
authentic jersies are the real deal, numbers and everything sewn in all the way to the patches on the sleeves. exactly what the players wear. replica either do not have numbers or name or if they do they only have only color for their numbers. many teams have multiple such as the cardinals are red and navy blue. hope that helps
726342
I don't think that there's the value or interest in the Model 1917 to warrant anyone making a 'replica'. What you may have is a "sporterized" 1917. \n\nCheck out the specs here:\n\nhttp://www.surplusrifle.com/m1917/index.asp\n\n\nAlso go to the forums and ask under the 1917 section. Those guys know it all about your rifle. \n\n\nAlso, take a look at this pic. Does your rifle have this on it? \n\nhttp://upload4.postimage.org/1489245/photo_hosting.html\n\nIf it does it's a P1917 rifle. It was designed by the British armory at Enfield and made by contract to various US gun makers. When the US entered WWI, they didn't have enough 1903 Springfields to arm our soldiers so they adopted and used all the Enfields that US companies were making for the Brits. It was quite a good rifle for the time but Americans snobbishly looked down on it for it's British roots. They are gaining in collector value as long as they are unmodified. No wyhere near the price for a 1903 or even M1. Hard to put a value on it because it all depends on condition. $50 to $800 (for a perfect and rare specimen).
250042
Since you don't give any mint marks or any comments about condition, as well as only describing one side of the coin, this is hard to answer, but I'll do my best. \n\nFIRST COIN: I can't answer this without knowing what's on the back and the size of the coin. There were several coins from this period that looked like this - half dimes, quarters, dollars, and $10 dollar coins. E-mail me with details and dimensions, and I'll find out for you.\n\n\nSECOND COIN: CONGRATULATIONS!!!! You have a fairly rare coin that is worth, at the poorest grade, $85. If the coin is in pretty good condition, it could be worth thousands ($4000 sound OK?). I HIGHLY recommend you take this coin to a reputable dealer to have it appraised and placed in a protective case. You may also want to have it insured.
982246
Look them up in the phone book.  That'll give you a pretty good idea of if they're legit or not.
722158
Yes, it can still be an original. Check out Ebay sometime. You will see tons of used items that are still claimed as originals. Consider this, antiques, they are still originals no matter how often they've been used.
558925
First, if you are going to try to raise a fundamental question about the authenticity of anything, try to do it in good English.  I hate having to wade through bad grammar and poor sentence structure in order to delve someone's meaning.  And second, if you are referring to that tired old argument about the holocaust being fake, then you are barking up the wrong tree.  The Holocaust happened and there is nothing you or your deluded friends can do about it.  I suspect that you know this and are just using it to stir up sentiments about something about which obviously you know nothing.
971744
You need to have it authenticated. One turned up in Canada recently and it turned out to be a fake.
226550
1. If it claims to be "brand new" and costs less than $300, most likely it is fake.\n\n2. If the “LV” logo is upright on both sides, it might be a fake. \n\n3. If it’s "brand new" and being sold on eBay or Yahoo! Auctions, there is a good chance it’s fake.\n\n4. If the piping is not leather, it is fake\n\n5. If the seams are uneven, frayed, the monogram is off or the bag is poorly \nsewn, it is definitely fake.\n\n\n6. If there is no date code (a.k.a date number) provided or if the seller is reluctant to provide a date code or receipt, it could be fake.\n\n7. If it’s a new bag and the bag’s handle is a different color leather than that of the piping, it’s fake.\n\n8. If the seller doesn’t allow returns, most likely it’s fake.\n\n9. If you bought it in your local Chinatown or from a street vendor, it’s fake.\n\n10. If the dust cover has rounded edges and/or it doesn’t come with a dust cover, it’s fake.\n\n11. If the bag has a hanging tag (of any type) or a bright yellow tag or envelope, it’s definitely a fake.\n\n12. If you bought the bag on an ecommerce site other than eluxury.com (be careful of eBay), it’s fake.
680988
Buy from a respected dealer, such as CHARD http://www.24carat.co.uk/coins.html who know what they're doing (and whose website features info on genuine coins).\n\nInvest in a good book that'll help you accurately identify coins, this one looks ok: http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0896893650/qid=1149160212/sr=2-3/ref=sr_2_3_3/202-1803687-5659022\n\nUse existing coins in your collection to familiarise yourself with how genuine ones should look & feel.... such as weight, detailing in the design, what it feels like to the touch, etc.\n\nIf buying through Ebay, check the sellers rating & feedback to see how genuine they are. Pace yourself & choose which coins you bid for carefully.\n\nBuy newly issued coins direct from the source, such as:\nThe ROYAL MINT:\nhttp://www.royalmint.com/\n\nThe ROYAL AUSTRALIAN MINT\nhttp://www.ramint.gov.au/\n\nThe ROYAL CANADIAN MINT\nhttp://www.mint.ca/\n\nThe UNITED STATES (US) MINT\nhttp://www.usmint.gov/\n\nINDIAN GOVERNMENT MINT\nhttp://www.igmint.org/
390018
A label of Antonius Stradivarius Cremonensis? \n     \n\n\nHave you found a violin with the label "Antonius Stradivarius Cremonensis"? Keep cool. It's almost certainly a fake. In the past some restorers have stuck labels (genuine or forged) inside instruments of various origins and there has been a proper business in labels, apart from the selling of violins. There have also been cases of old-time violin makers who would put the names of other contemporary makers on their own violins. \nNowadays, no violin expert would judge the value of a violin by its label. \nLabels such as "Antonius Stradivarius Cremonensis Faciebat Anno 17", followed or not by circles with crosses, initials or other particular signs are made (in series) to be completed before being stuck on the instrument: actually "... Anno 17" shows only the first two numerals of any year of the 18th century. A complete label should read "... Anno 1715" or "... Anno 1707", or at least an year of the 18th century. \nThere are also cases where you can't even seriously talk of fakes. A label like the following: "Antonius Stradivarius Cremonensis / Faciebat Anno 1721 / Made in Bohemia" is a joke rather a fake, considering that Stradivari never learned English. \n\nHowever, if you wish to learn more about the quality of the instrument you should take it to a violin maker, who will let you know if it is a good quality instrument. He may not be able to give you details of the period or school, but will be able to tell you if it was made by a good craftsman or on an assembly line. The addresses of violin makers, under the headings of States, can be found in the Reports of magazines for enthusiasts such as "Strad" or "String". \nIf, after the first check, the violin maker recognizes a particular quality in the instrument, it may be worth while asking for a specialist's appraisal (Expertise) on the part of an expert and connoisseur (usually a restorer or well-known maker) who will issue a certificate of attribution and an estimate of the instrument's value. \nThe cost of the expert's survey is, as a rule, quite modest if it concerns merely a verbal evaluation. There is, instead, a fixed price and a percentage of the instrument's value when a certificate evaluation is wanted. \nIf you so wish, you can have a first opinion from the expert violin makers of the Cremona School of Violin Making (Scuola di Liuteria) sending photographs or colour slides taken in the most professional manner, with shots of the whole instrument and of its details. The evaluation may not be infallible (to value an instrument is not the same thing as valuing its photo), but it is possible to get a general indication. It's the best that can be done without having the instrument to hand.
462242
It all depends.  If you hava a certificate of authenticity the price will rise.  If you actual evidence that they signed (like a video clip) your sitting on a little goldmine.  A Jamie Carragher shirt like that goes for 100-125 pounds on e bay.
12780
-cost\n-quality/condition\n-is it authentic?
61103
Nah, they aren't fake. America didn't even go on the gold standard until 1873 and they didn't stop making silver certificates until 1964. You can't redeem it for silver, though. They were abolished by Congress on June 4, 1963 and all redemption in silver ceased on June 24, 1968. Still worth a dollar or whatever collector's value is.
22640
read it carefully i've seen others in 2's and they are silver certificates. they arent worth any more than face value but you might want to hold on to it for later
1103957
This is an interesting question and is actually more complex than it initially sounds.\n\nFirst, there is a big difference between clones and fakes.\n\nClones are often made by the same factories that make the name brand clubs.  But regardless of where they are made, the specs are similar or exactly the same as the branded club they are trying to emulate.  However, clones will never be marketed under false pretenses.  For example, a Callaway clone will never be marketed as a Callaway.  Markings and labels and even cosmetic appearance will be different.  Obviously, the clone will have its own "brand name".\n\nFake clubs are a completely different story.  Counterfeits are manufactured at various levels of quality.  While some counterfeits are easy to spot (wrong colors, wrong font, etc.), others are almost impossible to identify as fake.  In most cases, counterfeits are of inferior quality, often quickly breaking down.  I have heard several stories of fake clubs literally falling apart during their first year of use.\n\nDue to the difficulty of identifying top-notch counterfeits, it is in your best interest to avoid eBay (unless the seller has an excellent reputation), avoid used clubs from unverified sources, and avoid bargains that seem to good to be true.  (Obviously, avoid buying them overseas unless the seller is legit).  While these tips won't protect you 100% of the time, they will help you avoid a majority of the counterfeit clubs out there.\n\nFinally, one word about clones.  Unlike counterfeits, clones are usually of very good quality.  If you dont need name brand clubs and are price-conscious, clones are a good way to go.\n\nHope this helps!