What is the best paint to use on an aluminum boat?
456949
sand and use a ferrous primer and then aluminum paint or  just wirebrush and clean and wash with vinegar then use a spray epoxy  talk to a metal finish expert at  ici dulux paints [ glidden]
1020342
you could try  a fine steelwool, i would start with 0000 and work your way up to larger grades as needed but this will remove the blueing. if the pitting is only minor i would use a soft scotchbrite pad and a light oil such as 3 in 1 oil . rub lightly, this should remove the rust with minamal damage to the finish,remove the oil with a soapy rag ,rinse with a clean rag ,let dry then touch up with a blueing pen or luiquid blue and a cotton swuab.
936613
Of course, aluminum wins as it has the lowest density.  The passivating oxide film makes aluminum non-corrosive, which is a great comfort to the metallurists and structural engineers responsible for keeping these birds in flight, rather than cracked up over an ocean.
214713
For what purpose? Probably paint thinner, mineral spirits, or acetone. These are only suggestions and not proven. Try at you're own risk.
752752
Basic aluminum carbonate.
336373
1. Get some wood, nails, screws, wood glue.\n2. Draw a scale design of the boat on a piece of paper.\n3. Cut up the........
607505
Aluminum DOES rust; it just isn't like iron rust. Aluminum oxide (chemical formula Al2O3) forms a thin film on the outside of the aluminum. \n\nSome people say, figuratively, that we have never really seen aluminum, because the oxide coating forms so quickly; (I have to disagree with what someone else wrote above) you can't scratch aluminum and then see the true color before the oxide covers it.\n\nAl2O3 is chemically the same as sapphire, it is very hard and strong. Once the coating has formed on the surface, it protects the rest of the aluminum in the bulk of the piece, so it doesnt corrode away. The coating is very thin, though-- only one molecule thick-- so we don't notice it and it doesn't really add any structural strength to the aluminum. \n\nBy contrast, iron rust is very weak. It crumbles and falls apart very easily; it can't even support its own weight. So it breaks off the surface of the iron and leaves fresh iron exposed to rust. That is why bridges and girders fall alart if they are not painted or protected from the elements. But aluminum protects itself.
692625
Aluminium is hard to make paint stick to. First it has to be clean. Then you have to use a primer that is made to adhere to aluminium not all primers will. then apply the desired colour over the primer. Check with manufactures or aircraft paints and primers they are a good starting place. Be sure you follow the instructions on the paint cans exactly or you will be wasting your money.
1069480
You might be able to contact Akron Coating and Adhesives.  They have announced its new line of hot melt adhesives designed to provide a strong bond between a variety of metals and thermoplastics such as AES’s Santoprene ™. Thermoplastic\nhttp://www.akroncoating.com/products/Detail.aspx?id=28\n\nOr choose from this list of manufacturers, distributors and service companies : http://www.thomasnet.com/products/adhesive-coating-services-392464-1.html
964838
The best way to do this, unless you are experienced with refinishing, is to take the bike COMPLETELY apart... all the parts, drive out all the bearing cups, everything that isn't painted to begin with, then have the frame sandblasted (or blasted with walnut shell if it is aluminum) and take it to an auto body shop. Once the frame is blasted it MUST be primered almost immediately or it will start to rust in hours. Someone at the shop will likely paint it for you pretty cheap. \n\nIf you want to try it yourself with spray cans, do this:\nFirst, you shouldn't use ENAMEL unless you have it professionally applied and baked on. Spray cans are formulated to be used in a wide range of temperatures and humidities so they never dry "just right". Even if you got fancy with some tin foil and spotlights you would probably only end up with an even softer finish.\n\nHere is a quick (sort of) process to follow:\n\n1) After completely disassembling the bike have it sandblasted to remove ALL the finish.\n2) Spray it as soon as possible with grey sandable lacquer primer. Duplicolor paint is all lacquer, I think, and you can get it from your local autoparts store. Buy the BIG cans, not the small ones. Apply at least 3 coats, 1/2 hour apart. Don't worry about light runs for now.\n3) Wait at least 48 hours. Sand the primer using 220 grit aluminum oxide paper (white in color) until the surface is smooth. It shouldn't take much unless you have a lot of runs.\n4) Using a tack rag, lightly go over the entire frame (don't rub!) to remove the sanding dust.\n5) Apply several light coats (6 or 7 perhaps) of the color of your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Again, use LACQUER, the same brand that you used for primer. Apply coats 1/2 hour apart. Be sure you cover every part and do NOT get runs. If you get runs you are applying it too heavily.\n6) Apply the LACQUER clear cost, perhaps 6 coats.\n7) Let the frame alone until you can't smell the paint anymore when you get up close and take a big whiff. If you can smell it, it ain't dry! This will take 2 to 3 days at least.\n8) Using white paste polishing compound, follow the directions and polish out the whole frame.\n9) Do NOT wax or wash for at least 10 days.\n\nIf you rush this you will end up with a sloppy mess and you'll kick yourself for ever trying. However, if you take your time and do it right it'll be a very cool feeling.
476219
Aquaphor is the best for this!
1125460
You should consider/investigate electroless plating processes. \n\nHi-Phosphorous Electroless nickel is a continuous coating easily applied inside container/cavities like your teapot, and is reasonably affordable.  Contains mostly nickel with a minor amount of phosphorous - the high phosphorous version is quite corrosion resistant to many acids except sulphuric.  Low-phos and standard electroless are cheaper, but with lower corrosion resistance - these might work for you too - a little experimentation is worth doing.  Check around for prices at the plating shop - coating quality varies a lot.\n\nThere is an electroless gold plating process too (of high purity), but you can imagine it is more expensive and is porous at the microscopic level, so doesn't give you the corrosion resistance you might otherwise expect.  It is very possible to combine the two: modestly thin gold (10-30um) on top of nickel, and then you'd have a pretty good coating at a reasonable price.\n\nThere is an old 'tinning' plating process utilizing tin (Sn), but I think it is electrolytic and hard to put down inside a cavity like a teapot.  \n\nA silver-tin tinning "hot wash" is traditionally done inside copper pots (after acid cleaning) to provide a food-grade coating, but the teapot will have to be heated up quite hot (~200°C/400°F) to soldering temperatures, and this may play havoc with the existing silver plating, or even with the construction of the teapot (the spout may fall off).\n\nFor food-grade and chemical purity, consider some kind of polymer coating, but you'll have problems with the coating sticking, or you'll have to heat up the teapot pretty hot to cure the paint (check out "Teflon" or "Silverstone" coating services); there is a very remote possibility of an acrylic paint coating (solvent evaporation), but you'd need to know what was in the paint, or make the paint yourself.\n\nAny way you approach this problem, however, is going to run into the problem of the cost of labor - the coating material cost isn't going to the be the high cost adder (mostly because the coating is so thin).  Disposal of the plating fluids will be expensive too, so factor that into the cost as well.\n\nBy the way, you didn't say what metal was exposed - if copper, that is OK - copper pipes are used in household plumbing.  Just clean up the copper and enjoy.  Iron and aluminum is OK too, just keep everything scrubbed clean.
7273
Aqua Net is good, so is engine starting fluid (ether) or Gumout carburetor cleaner.
739814
do not use that!   use paintball marker oil at a paintball gun store...dicks sporting goods should have it
285742
If it is a true canvas top there is a great product made by Mcguires. Autozone is easy place to find it maybe.\nOtherwise this is the product at their site.\n\nhttp://www.meguiars.com/?boat-cleaners-compounds/Canvas-Cleaner\n\nIf you even think about using a brush make sure it is definately soft bristle brush. Better off with cloths.
440473
Hey Jake!  When I lived in Ocala, FL back in the late 80's I had a Chris Craft boat with a fiberglass hull.  To protect the hull and the finish I would wash the outside and deck with a good degreaser (Greased Lightning) and after-wards apply a product called Sta-Brite.  It is a wax, not sure if it was a silicone base or not but it really repelled the algae and keep the gel-coat/finish shiny\n\nHyway
557304
Having owned wooden sailing yachts for 30 years and lived aboard and cruised them in the Caribbean and made a living as a  boatbuilder:\nOakum is good only on larger boats with big gaping seams and something solid behind them, ie the garboard or along the stem/transom, as oakum is a big hairy thing that takes along time to expand and then really expands and can blow the planking off a boat...saw it happen NOT pretty.\n\nWhat has worked for about 500 years is cotton caulking..it comes in along long skein from Distributors and Defender Industries, you pull out  a few feet at a time, twist it  so its now a tightly twisted line of cotton about , oh, the size of a pencil, and drive it into the seem with a caulking iron, which looks like a fat putty knife and is also available from Jamestown. It takes a while to develop the feel for setting the cotton deep enough to putty over without driving it all the way through; if a seam is really open, you might have to wind the cotton a little looser, say tot he diameter of a crayon and push it gently in rather than drive it in... Paint the caulking with a thin coat of paint, then under the water line use Pettits brown seam compound; above the waterline Pettits white seam compound. Both remain flexible for a goodly while and if protected by paint wont crumble out. Epoxy will NOT work; the plank swelling will spit it out.\nThere is a fair amount of controversy about using 3-Ms 5200 under the waterline and Life Caulk above.it's not old timey, its not traditional, but it works.\nRemember if the boat has been out a while and the seams need a lot of caulking...cotton, putty, 5200....as the planks swell they will force out the putty/5200, and you will have to scrape and sand and repaint the topsides until the wood is swollen to where it wants to be...\nSeams that have shrunk so you can see daylight will swell back up..but it may take several days..when you first launch the boat  be prepared for a lot of water coming in...(I needed a crash pump to back up two 1750 bilge pumps after being out for 6 months...)if you can, hose the boat down inside and out a few days before launching...use LOTS of water..it will save a lot of Ohmygod we're sinking trauma at launch...\n\nThere is a magazine devoted to fools like us with wooden boats. Its called (DUH) WoodenBoat, web site is www.woodenboat.com. Filled with all sorts of do it yourself tips and references and books and good stuff..Start reading it today.