How are FICO scores calculated?
461973
The above answers are good guidelines but the ACTUAL mathematic formula is considered patented proprietary information, and nobody knows exactly how it works except for the agencies that use them.  That's why all the information out there is so general....because nobody really knows and Fair Isaac isn't telling.
1056659
FICO, TrueCedit, PLUS are names of companies who sell you report and score information. Each one will show you different scores from the same credit bureau.  \n\nFICO is like an acronym. The old timers refer to it as Beacon Scores. The scores that mean anything are the scores calculated by the three major credit bureaus, These are what FICO is selling you. If you are going to purchase score information, just go directly to the three credit bureaus.
988575
annualcreditreport.com.\n\nreport free, fico score will cost you extra
1017795
Pulling your Fico scores monthly or every 3 months can be expensive, When you can be using that money to pay on debts etc.  \n\nI would say pull a first copy then start working on cleaning up your credit. When you feel that you have reached a milestone in your credit repair, pull another. \n\nWhen doing credit repair, your scores will fluctuate. So, basically pulling every 6 months or so isn't to bad. Once you get your credit cleaned up. I would suggest pulling it once a year.\n\n\nedited to add: Pulling your Fico score "does not" result in a hard inquiry and "will not" affect your scores!!! It only affects your pocketbook.\n\nIf you are wanting to pull your credit reports to see what is listed on them and for disputing, you should contact each credit bureau and purchase your report from them. I would not suggest using the free FACT-Act reports or the 3in1's to dispute from.\n\nIf you dispute something from your reports to the bureaus - they will send you an updated copy.
110170
Your total federal income tax for 2005, before credits. You'll figure this based upon your taxable income (line 27), and then you will subtract credits and withholding from your total tax to determine how much you owe or will receive as a refund.
783199
You only pay taxes on your adjusted gross income minus deductions and credits, in other words, your Net Taxable Income. \n\nYou will be in a different federal tax bracket if you are filing single, or married filing jointly, or qualifying widow/widower, or married filing separately, or filing as head of household.  The tax bracket also changes depending on how much net taxable income you are reporting (line 43, form1040).\n\nFederal Tax Brackets are 10%, 15%, 25%, 28%, 33%, and 35% but, these percentages don't accurately portray the amount of tax due.  For each tax bracket, depending on your filing status, the bracket has a correction amount.\n\nFor example, someone filing Single, with a net taxable income of $6,000 would fall into the 10% tax bracket and owe 10% in tax.  This equals $600 in tax.  Looking up $6,000--$6,050 net taxable income in the tax tables, IRS Publication 17, shows a tax obligation of $603.\n\nAnother example, Someone filing Single, with net taxable income of $60,000 would be in the 25% tax bracket, but owe 25% of $60,000 minus $3,335.  That equals $11,665 in tax.   If you check the tax tables, starting on page 250 of IRS Publication 17, you will see a net taxable income $60,000--$60,050 shows a tax liability of $11,671.\n\nThe percentages and subtraction numbers are different depending upon your specific situation (your filing status and your level of net taxable income.)  Most people just use the tax tables and look up their net taxable income in the tables to find the tax they owe.\n\nHere's another way to compute the tax owed using the federal tax brackets:\nhttp://www.irs.gov/formspubs/article/0,,id=150856,00.html\n\nThe real problem finding your federal tax bracket is accurately determining your net taxable income.  The only way to do that is to complete a tax return and see how the numbers turnout.  Someone could have a high gross income but exemptions, deductions, and credits bring their net taxable income to zero.  In fact, some credits are refundable even if the taxpayer has no tax liability.
184119
You mean a distribution of credit scores?
1018948
The most commonly used credit score in US is the FICO score. Scores can range between 300 and 850, depending on your credit history (on-time payments, debt ratios, etc.). According to an ad that runs frequently on Yahoo's home page, 678 is the average score across the entire US.
1053643
Scores range from the 300s to about 900, with the vast majority of folks falling in the 600s and 700s. The higher the score, the better. \n\n"The FICO score is the single best summary score of one's credit worthiness," says E-Loan President and Chief Operating Officer Joe Kennedy. \nA credit score number is often called a FICO score, for Fair, Isaac and Co., the California company that developed the system upon which it is based. \nThe score is supposed to distill all the information in your credit report, using a formula to calculate a single number that indicates your credit worthiness. \nIt's designed to give lenders a fast, accurate prediction of the risk involved in giving you a loan. Lenders have attested to the score's value in streamlining the underwriting process and creating more opportunities for consumers to get mortgages.
186034
here is the link:\nwww.creditmonitoring.citi.com\n\nA couple of comments,\n\n1) For $12.95/month are you mostly interested in the credit montoring service. Because that is a very high price to pay for a very low risk. $155.40/year.\n\n2) Did you sign up to get their score analyzer? If so you are wasting you money. The score they give is only an "estimate" (go ahead and check it out, it's in their terms) and not associated with FICO scores.\n\nSave your money!\n\nIf you are planning a major purchase(car, house, etc.) go to www.myfico.com/12 and buy your real FICO credit scores(the ones the lenders use) for $45.00. They will also give you the top 4 reasons why your credit scores aren't higher which will give you a game plan.\n\nGood Luck
501743
Have them run their own credit report at www.myfico.com and ask for a copy of it.  This also gives you the credit score and it pulls from all three credit bureaus.  It costs $12.95.   Or, they can write away for copies from all three bureaus but that will take a couple of weeks.  \n\nYou are smart to do this, by the way!
1130348
fico is one of your scores. generally your equifax score is your median score since they seem to be the most fair in grading credit. experian is generous while transunion are the stingiest. each bureau has their own method for calculation. biggest factor is timely payments. stuff like tradelines, amounts and such figure in as well but are of smaller percentages.
1010668
FICO® score: Your interest rate is:\n760 - 8506.45%\n700 - 7596.67%\n680 - 6996.85%\n660 - 6797.06%\n640 - 6597.49%\n620 - 6398.04%
271667
Reading text to resolve a question or achieve directives does not work with credit repair/improving.  Analysis, followed by actions known to improve FICO, along with disputes of negative tradelines, and some ways to add points if feasible to the consumer. Easy to go from 620 to 660.  Harder to improve from 720 to 760.  Nearly possible to jump from 520 to 560; a score under 600 denotes derogatory items, their removal will get you into the 600's.  Manipulation of balances is your likely solution.  Statement dates, reporting dates, date of last increase, etc.
243968
Here's some more good advice from Credit Guru...(my hero!)\n\nThere are no places that offer free credit scores.  You will have to pay for them.\n\nThe sad part is that each of the credit reporting agencies have slightly differant systems of calculating them.  \n\nIf you go to the site that developed the FICO scoring system, they have a calculator that will estimate what your score is.  It's free but won't be totally accurate.\n\nOr, at the same site and for $49.95, you can get the credit score for all three agencies.  \n\nThe nice thing about this site is not only will you get your credit score, but it will also show you the reasons it's low and how you can improve it.  I guess that's worth the high price tag.\n\nGo to the site, read up, and make a more educated decision of what you want to do.
626302
you can buy your score at www.myfico.com\n\nIt's 12.95 last time I checked.\n\nI also got a free score when I went to a workshop at a mortgage company, they do a combined  pull from all three and the score was on it.
912951
As mentioned above, there are a lot of good answers listed here.  To reiterate, it will have a positive AND negative effect on your credit becuase it plays with factors of the FICO equation.  Part of the FICO equation looks at how many creditors you have, part looks at how old the active creditors are, and part looks at how much credit you've been extended versus how much you've actually used.  No one in the general public knows 100% what the actual FICO eqution looks like because it is considered proprietary information of a very classified nature.  Fair & Issac will not release the full equation fearing that nefarious people would be able to manipulate it to their benefit and screw over a lot of companies while still maintaining an 820 score.  In 2000, the high courts forced Fair & Issacs to release generalized information on the equation...the courts argued that people's misconception about their credt and what affects it is needlessly hurting even good credit people's scores.  \n\nDone with the info/history lesson...here is the affect it will have:\nCancelling older cards will hurt your credit because it is cancelling long established accounts, regardless if the cards cancelled have balances or not.  \n\nCancelling the cards increases your debt ratio (amount of credit available versus how much you've used).  The closer you are to your available credit roof, the lower your score will drop.  \n\nThe score will look to improve on eliminating the number of creditors, but you're hitting the American average of 4.  If you have other store cards, then the closer you get to 4 creditors, it will help your score a tad.  \n\nAs many have said, what you want to do is not a bad thing but could have a slight, temporary negative impact on your score.  If you chose to cancel a card, aim for the newest cards and the cards with the smallest available credit.  \n\n**Possible idea that may have the least impact on your score**\nAssuming your credit is good because you have been paying your bills on time.  Total up all the available credit all four cards are giving you.  If you're comfortable with that available amount, call your two oldest cards and ask get them to respectively increase your credit limit.  If they increase to an amount you're comfortable with, cancel the newest two.  This way, your available credit limit stays the same, your creditor number drops and your debt ratio is minimally impacted.  Thus, your score should be only minutely affected.