How do you clean an aluminum canoe?  I want it to shine and be new looking.?
408136
The cleaning methods in ascending order of harshness are:\n\n·         Plain water\n\n·         Mild soap / detergent\n\n·         Solvents such as kerosene, turpentine or white spirit\n\n·         Non-etching chemical cleaner\n\n·         Wax-based polish\n\n·         Abrasive wax\n\n·         Abrasive cleaner\n\nAfter cleaning the aluminium should be washed thoroughly and dried to prevent streaking. Special care should be taken to remove any traces of cleaner from edges and joins. Always follow manufacturers recommendations when using proprietary cleaning products.\n\nAbrasive cleaners can alter the appearance of polished aluminium or aluminium with a ‘grain’ finish. If the aluminium has a grain, always clean with the grain.
973559
Turn it upside down to get all the liquid out and let it dry.  Then use alcohol on a cloth to remove the sticky stuff.
537017
Use lighter fluid on a paper towel, and wipe it off, the spray it with windex and wahlah, clean picture frame!
662079
I suggest you to use a Wet Cloth, and if it is not too dirty, just use a soft cloth to clean it, specially if you have a LCD monitor.\n\nHope this helps. Regards.
190325
Get a new keyboard.  Not that dear & not covered in kitty poo / sick.  I can't imagine how you'd clean that.\nJust realised you meant water.  Leave it to dry somewhere warm, but no direct heat.  Leave it for a couple of days perhaps.  As long as it's just water & not waste should be ok.
642692
Use a good quality automotive undercoat first - especially one formulated for aluminium or similar.\n\nOnce the paintwork is restored, apply several coats of a good automotive lacquer (this will really give the paint job depth and lustre too). Finally, apply specially made PVC protective sheet to all areas likely to be scratched (good bike shops and some car accessory dealers will stock this). Once on this gives permanent protection and looks fine.
549460
bmck has it right...prep work on any paint job is about 3x the actual paint time and the more the better...all loose paint must go; any place the aluminum is oxidizing ( loose grey powder, the alum. equivalent of rust) must go. Zinc chromate either in spray cans or quarts is the preferred  general purpose primer..\n\nPaints are usually made as a system, ie a finish coat is made to go with a specific primer. GO to marine store..or, if you are on fresh water and doing very limited use) a hardware store, and read the pant cans. Having spent 30 years reading Interlux and Pettit cans, I know there's a lot of information on the label.\n\nIf you are thinking of putting an anti-fouling paint on the boat you CAN NOT NOT NOT use copper based paints. The copper in salt water will eat the aluminum hull in no time....special paints are made for aluminum; once again read the cans.....THIS ALSO APPLIES TO OUTDRIVES AND OUTBOARD MOTORS, FOLKS..if you're in salt or even brackish water don't use copper anti fouling paint on your engine parts.you will quickly regret it
888302
FOR A PRO LOOKING FINISH WITHOUT HAVING TO STRIP IT YOU CAN LIGHTLY BUFF IT WITH OOOO STEEL WOOL AND WIPE IT CLEAN\nGET SOME BIRCHWOOD CASEY GUNSTOCK FINISH AND THIN WITH A FEW DROPS OF LIGHTER FLUID\nWIPE ON AND RUB IN TAKING CARE NOT TO GET INTO THE CHECKERING TOO HEAVY\nHANG IT IN A DUST FREE ENVIVONMENT FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS\nTHE FINISH ONCE CURED CAN BE POLISHED OUT WITH SIMPLE CAR WAX AND A SOFT CLOTH\nU WILL BE AMAZED AT THE FINISH\nWE USED THIS TECHNIQUE IN THE GUNSHOP I WORKED IN TO ENHANCE THE APPEARANCE OF SOME USED GUNS\nREALLY WORKS WELL\nYOU CAN MAKE A DUST BOX OUT OF CARDBOARD AND HANG WITH A COAT HANGER\nYOU SHOULD HAVE ABOUT $6 INVESTED INCLUDING THE LIGHTER FLUID
722733
Get an old blender (preferably one you don't plan to use again for food processing).  Set the dial to "powder" and drop in your aluminum bar.  In no time at all, if the blades, motor and glass hold up and your electricity doesn't fail, you will have a delicious glass of powdered aluminum.
190092
Dissolve salt in vinegar.  To clean copper wipe on with a cloth.  To clean brass, submerge the brass piece in a bath of salt and vinegar.  There is an electric reaction where the ions of sodium from the salt displaces the copper/ brass.  Do not allow to dry on. \n...or to clean copper pans, use ketchup and let set for awhile then rinse off.\n...or soak in Worcestershire sauce.\n...or dip half a lemon in kosher salt and rub well. Then polish with a soft cloth and beeswax for a deep, lasting copper shine.
373924
Here's how I've been cleaning my boards for 20+ years:\n\n1. Lie the board, wax up, in the sun. If it's a hot sunny day, around noon-ish, it should only take a few minutes to start melting. You'll know it's ready when the wax starts to glisten (yes, I know, people say you're not supposed to leave a surfboard in the sun, but we're only talking about a few minutes and, when compared to the amount of time it sits in the sun while you're actually out in the water surfing, that logic doesn't really add up).\n\n2. Take a wood or plastic spatula from your kitchen and start scraping the wax off in long, even strokes (you could use a wax comb, but most of them are way too small...it takes forever). Using a paper towel, remove the wax from the spatula and dump it in a trash bag. Repeat until you've got the bulk of the wax removed.\n\nIMPORTANT NOTE: Wax is gnarly stuff. If you get it on your patio or carpet, it will stain pretty much permanently once it melts. I suggest doing this on your lawn or laying down a large towel or drop cloth. Also, if it's not warm and sunny, you can use a blow dryer to soften up the wax. It's kind of a hassle, but it works.\n\n3. Using paint thinner, take a rag and wipe the entire board down (both sides). This will remove all the remaining wax, as well as any dirt or gunk on the board. Some companies sell a liquid they refer to as "wax remover" or "fire water" - it's all just paint thinner with better packaging and a bigger price tag.\n\n4. Rinse the board thoroughly with water. \n\nAd far as paddling out for the first time, you'll have all kinds of people give you all kinds of advice. 99% of it is worthless. \n\nAs long as you have a basic sense of how surfing works - paddling, catching a wave, jumping to your feet, etc. - you're pretty much ready to paddle out. No amount of advice, studying, or practice on the beach will help you ride that first wave. You just gotta keep trying until you get it. \n\nWith that said, a few suggestions to at least get you in a position to do that (and not die or kill anyone else in the process):\n\n1. Paddle out at a spot with the least amount of people you can find. Beginners are a hazard. Everytime you lose control of your board, you run the risk of tagging someone in the head. Very dangerous. \n\n2. BEFORE you paddle out, sit on the beach and watch for at least a half hour. Get a sense of where the waves are breaking, how often, and any other patterns you can pick up on. Do the other surfers in the water appear to be drifting in one direction or the other? If so, there's a current. Be aware of it. \n\n3. Use the lineups. In other words, as you're walking out into the ocean, pick a few landmarks on the beach and remember them. Then use those landmarks to gauge your location once in the water. They'll let you know if you're drifting, in which direction, and how quickly. \n\n4. Make sure your board is plenty big. The biggest mistake that 90% of beginners make is using a board that's too small. Get a big enough board and you might get up on your very first try. Get a board that's too small and it could be a YEAR before you stand up successfully. \n\n5. If possible, surf with a friend. The buddy system is tried and true. Better yet, get a friend who already knows how to surf. Don't force them to sit with you and watch you fall off 50 times in a row. Just having them in the vicinity can be helpful, especially if it gives you a chance to watch them surf. With a little luck, they'll paddle over from time to time and give you a few pointers. \n\n6. 90% of the time a beginner has blown the wave before he even attempts to stand up. This happens by either being too far back on the board (these are the guys you see paddling with the nose of the board sticking up in the air), in which case almost every wave will pass you by. Or by being too far forward on the board (these are
109155
Wipe it with teak oil and a soft cloth.  Uso no other furniture polish or you will ruin it.
440473
Hey Jake!  When I lived in Ocala, FL back in the late 80's I had a Chris Craft boat with a fiberglass hull.  To protect the hull and the finish I would wash the outside and deck with a good degreaser (Greased Lightning) and after-wards apply a product called Sta-Brite.  It is a wax, not sure if it was a silicone base or not but it really repelled the algae and keep the gel-coat/finish shiny\n\nHyway
672621
Try white vinegar...it cleans just bout anything failing that you can buy mega cheap silver cleaner from any shop.
348776
Buy a metal polish, and use it to remove the rust.
1034801
give it a good clean, use a lens cleaner..
426471
Just take an old piece of a tshirt. Put alchol on it and rub it over the rollers etc. Anything u can reach. Believe it will be black until u get all that crap off