On road racing bikes, for instance Lance Armstrong's Trek Madone 5.9, what are the measurements for? See Below
398449
700 x 23c - Tyre size...this is standard issue\n53/39 - Number of teeth on 2 front cogs...standard issue\npedals- comes with pedals\n50cm to 62cm- frame sizes available\n\nthe 50-62cm is frame size availability, not pedal-related. this measurement typically is seat-tube (s-t) length, from center of bottom-bracket (bb) to center of top-tube (t-t), but can sometimes measure to the top of t-t or even to the top of the seat collar.
12744
You made an excelent question, and often an overlooked factor when buying a bicycle.\n\nAs a rule of thumb never buy a serious bike at a departament store, always go to a local bike shop, where you will get great advise.\n\nThe most important measures when buying a bike are\n\n1.- Frame size. There should be 1 or 2 inches between your crotch and the top tube. A longer top tube will give you more stability.\n\n2.- Saddle height. Your leg should be slightly bent while sitting on the saddle and the pedal is at the lowest.\n\n3.- Handlebar Height/lenght. Depending on what you want to do, your handle bar could be 1 or 2 inches below the saddle (mostly MTB and race bikes) or even with the saddle ( touring ) - A short stem will gove you better handling.\n\n4.- Saddle. Once again it will be determined by your riding style, you should find the center of gravity for your riding\n\nThere are a lot of internet sites that could help you make a decision, I suggest you read more on the subject and most important, go to a local bike shop where you will get expert advice.
888396
I would recommend talking to your friends who cycle as well as stop in at a few bicycle stores. Odds are you plan on riding with others so it is a good ice-breaking to start talking about bike types and applications. It's great to know a few good bicycle shops in your area. Then ask yourself, what kind of terrain I plan on riding on (paved streets, dirt roads, trails, etc.) How often do I plan on riding my bike and how much can my budget afford. A good bike shop can help you with those. Then as far as women specific bikes, again talk to the bike shop, maybe take one for a test ride and see how the bike fits you. The bike fit is very important, if it doesn't feel good to you, are you really going to ride the bike. I personaly like the Trek bike line. I've riding one for the past few years (over 35,000 miles and counting) and I love it. Good luck and happy cycling. jim
649671
measure with a tape, around your head, just above your ears.\nbike helmets will fit a range of sizes and the measurement range is usually listed with the helmet size ie med - 49cm to 55cm.\n\nI have found that if you are on the limit of the size measureent range, it's best to go for the smaller size.
1024421
Get thee to your local bike shop.  Ask for leg warmers.  Otherwise, check performance.com, velowear.com, velogear.com, etc...
511005
Go to your local bike shop and ask them to recommend a tire for you. You'll get a better answer there than you will here.
285712
I have made and ridden motorcycles for 20yrs and the biggest factors with tyre sizes are stabilty from centrifugal force. Bikes with small wheels are unstable at higher speeds, they are inherently closer to destruction because at the same speed a smaller tyre is revolving faster. Tyres are critical on bikes. As a bike leans in to a corner, the tyre, because of it's shape or profile, increases in contact surface to counteract the amount of force pushing the bike to the outside of the corner. These forces get to a certain point before the bike will slide and crash. Things that affect the performance of this are, heat in the tyre, weight vs power vs tyre size, tyre profile, diameter, motorcycle geometry.\nBasically you do not change wheels or tyre shapes on a bike unless u are prepared for the consequences. Harleys may put really big tyres on but they are not performance orientated. \nAlmost all bikes these days have a 120/70 17inch front and depending on power a 160-200/55 17inch rear. Most bikes pre-1988 ran 18inch(or bigger) tyres. The simple reason for this is stability vs steerablity. 17inch is the best compromise. If you are designing a bike, stick with these sizes and work on suspension, geometry and weight distribution as they are more changeable. cheers Neil
535961
Different makes have different sizes that will fit you differently. Im about 6 ft and I a have large scott YZ0 dirt jumper. you will probably want a larger size bike you might hit your knee on the bars if you are turning sharply on a smaller one and that hurts a lot.
767443
Usually, 700C x 45 tyres will fit. \n\nCuriously, after only a few years of using the 28" designation, a change was made that changed how tyres were measured.\n\nYou might even find some 700Cx45 tyres also labeled as 28x1-1/2
25226
Below are the average sizes for different races:\n\nBlack 6.89" (175 mm) \nAsian 5.33" (135 mm) \nCaucasian 6.22" (158 mm) \nHispanic 6.15" (156 mm) \nNative American 5.66" (144 mm)
1008757
FOR UNDER $300... that's a tall order. I guess, get to be buddies with someone who has a bike they can sell you used. That's still cutting it awful close. You could do it on a regular road racing bike, again, you'll have to go used and don't expect STI or Campagnolo Ergo (brake levers that have shifters built in). But with a regular road bike it'd be more likely than with a Tri-specific bike.\n\nIf you're handy with a wrench you might be able to build one up for that amount, maybe even an old Trek 2100 or 2300 with downtube shifters. \n\nFactor in the cost of bike shoes and pedals as well - this will eat up alomst $200 if you go inexpensive but still decent. If you just want to do the course, and not expect to be competitive, it's doable for a little less.
1144152
triathletes use a "back of the seat" system, check this out \nhttp://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=18690&subcategory_ID=4342\n\nyou should be able to find one at any local bike shop. hope that helps ;-)
1186724
Yes, there are a few different sizes. The most common threadless headset size is 1 1/8 inch. In the 90s, Gary Fisher dabbled with a 1 1/4. There are some, mostly road bikes, that are one inch. Some of the jumping/hucking/downhill/freeride bikes are even coming in 1.5-inch these days! \n\nI'm not sure what will match up to your seatpost/stem question, though. A visit to a bike shop would help.
882717
The first number ( "26" or "700" or "27") indicates the tire and wheel diameter. The second number ("1.5," "2.0," "25c," and "1 1/4") refers to the width of the tire as in 1.5 inches; 2.0 inches; 25mm; and 1 1/4 inches; and so on.\nDon't be confused by the road bike tire designation "c" as in the size 700 x 25c. The "c" is just a French tire size, it doesn't stand for a numerical measurement.
268837
I am assuming you are referring to the Nashbar Trekking handlebars.  These handlebars are 25.4 mm (1.0 inches) in diameter.  You should be able to re-use the brakes and shifters from your bike.\n\nVisit the REI website and look at the setup on the Novara Safari touring bike.  You'll probably want to purchase extended foam grips or tape.
431335
You do not measure a bike from the pedals to the top of the saddle. There are variations in crankarm length and saddle height that would provide a very inaccurate measurement of the bike with regards to sizing.\n\nSizing conventions vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and is best measured in centimeters. The only bikes that are measured in inches these days are mountain bikes, and those crappy store bought road and mountain bikes.\n\nIn the old days, a company would stamp the size of the bike on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell, or other inconspicuous location on the bike frame.\n\nNowadays, most manufacturers adhere to a standard of measuring from the center of the bottom bracket (running along the seat tube of the frame) to the center of the top tube.\n\nBut now with the advent of the compact frame and semisloping frame, it can get a bit more confusing. There's virtual length, and actual length.\n\nBest bet is to check your bike manufacturer's site.\n\nFor example:\nhttp://veloeuropa.com/product_nerv_specs.shtml
1037503
Check out this photo for proper chain configuration-\n\nhttp://152.10.254.216/images/Shimano_XTR_derailleur0_DSC.jpg