how do i interpret the hill grades in cycling?
403133
Most cycle races are run over hill gradients of between 5% and 20%\n\nMy opinion of a power climb (one you can ride up in a big gear would be anything up to 6%.\n\nIt starts getting difficult from 7%-11%\n\nOver 11% you will be in your smallest gear\n\nOver 16% you wont be able to stay seated.\n\nHappy Hill Riding!!
635706
It means that the grades are based on the standard scale:\na=4pts\nb=3pts\nc=2pts\nd=1pt\nf=0pts\n\nA weighted GPA scale is as follows:\n\na=5pts\nb=4pts\nc=3pts\nd=2pts\nf=0\n\nA weighted gpa usually only applies if you're taking Advanced Placement classes or college level courses.
458981
Always ALWAYS head for the smoother path (obviously). Stay low, and keep your butt about two inches off the seat instead of more. Keep pedaling if you aren't in danger's way, and brake lightly when you are. Coordinate every move 10 seconds before you get there - it's hard not to get wrapped up in the "Oh damn! That's gonna slow me down!" attitude. Let it flow, but make sure the faucet's on full blast. When I rode, I had a knack for downhill, because I didn't worry at all about busting my butt or breaking any bones...I know that can be bad, but it will hinder you to a certain degree. Good luck!
471128
There are 5 categories applying to both men and women.  Riders registered with the USCF (United States Cycling Federation) are initially registered as Category 5 (Novice).  As they gain experience and place in the top 6 in races, they can gain points to be promoted to the next level.  Cat 1 is generally reserved for the top 100 racers in the country.  Cat 2 are for racers who are competitive at the state level.  Cat 3 are regionally competitive, while Cat 4 are riders who are beyond novice, but locally competitive.\n\nThere are separate categories for road and track (velodrome). A rider may be a Cat 2 on the track but Cat 3 on the road.
786227
they are a piece of S@*#. They don't go up a semi-steep hill and they don't go to far on hills.
164526
I'm not aware of there being a sixty metre hill competition at the Olympics (I am aware of a ninety and one hundred and twenty metre hill), but in answer to your question the number refers to the height of the hill. So on a 90 metre hill, they start at about 85m off the ground and on a 120m hill, they start at about 115m off the ground
1126940
the one that feels best for you.\n\nyou'll get all sorts of advice about cadence (how fast you pedal) and hills and shifting and stuff, but it all comes down to what works for you. \n\nif your knees start to hurt, switch to an easier / lower gear and pedal faster for the same ground speed.\n\nif pedaling is too easy and it feels like you have to pedal fast to keep up, switch to an easier / harder gear.\n\nsimple.
450089
ok - safety advice aside - have exit strategies - where and when you may want to pull out.  have support people around to help give advice on the route.  if you are doing a strict downhill thing - start at the bottom and increase your start point as you get used to the speed and turns.  (make sure there are no cars!)  the faster you go, the more tipsy you become so make sure the condition of the surface is suitable.  other than that if it isn't just speeed you are after, the same principles apply as they do for surfing or skiiing - zig zags slow you down etc.  HAVE FUN
418610
It depends on your legs, and what speed you want to maintain.  Level ground is not why you have gears: its for hills, and for bad terrain.
1137640
For a road bike, look at something in the range of 56cm to 58cm.  For a mtn bike, look at something in the range of 16.5 in to 18 in.
882717
The first number ( "26" or "700" or "27") indicates the tire and wheel diameter. The second number ("1.5," "2.0," "25c," and "1 1/4") refers to the width of the tire as in 1.5 inches; 2.0 inches; 25mm; and 1 1/4 inches; and so on.\nDon't be confused by the road bike tire designation "c" as in the size 700 x 25c. The "c" is just a French tire size, it doesn't stand for a numerical measurement.
1133353
I'm a fellow cyclist who recently complete a 100 mile ride with 2500 other cyclists.  Many of whom were heavy.  They looked great in their cycling jerseys.  You are doing man!!!!! Keep it up and be proud........
895835
it is indeed! I would encourage you to start slow and work your way up, best part is to compare your speed and distance to the last few days and keep going up, we have a stationary bike so can not compare but still find it enjoyable, good luck
653803
There is a chart that explains all of it. Click on your level # and it will show you.
1131192
To determine your proper frame size, you’ll first need to get an accurate inseam measurement . Stand with your back against a wall, your bare feet 6" apart on a hard floor, \nlooking straight ahead.\nPlace a book or carpenter’s square between your legs with one edge against the wall, and pull it up firmly into your crotch, simulating the pressure of your saddle while riding. Have a helper measure from the top edge of the book to the floor, in centimeters. (You can convert inches to centimeters by multiplying inches by 2.54.) Repeat two or three times, for consistency, and average the results to get your inseam length. \n\nSource(s):\nFrame size refers to the length of the frame’s seat tube. Pro frames are measured along the seat tube in one of two ways, center-to-top (C-T) or center-to-center (C-C). C-T measures the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the top tube or seat lug (See image bellow). C-C measures from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. Since C-T measures to a point higher on the frame, a frame measuring 55cm C-T would also measure roughly 53.5–54cm C-C, a difference of 1–1.5cm.\n\nTo size your C-T road frame, we use a guideline of .67 x inseam length. For example, if you have an 85cm inseam, your C-T frame size would be .67 x 85cm, or 57cm.\n\nLeMond’s formula, from his former coach, Cyrille Guimard, establishes C-C size by the formula .65 x inseam length, which yields virtually the same frame size when you add the 1–1.5cm difference between C-C and C-T. \n\nLarger riders (6'0" and up) may find that this formula puts them on a too small, and uncomfortable, road frame. A taller cyclist who wants a more comfortable frame may be better off selecting a frame 27–28cm less than inseam length, C-T.\n\nFor a mountain bike, we start by recommending a frame in the range of 10–12cm smaller than you take in a road frame. For example, if you ride a 55cm C-T road frame, look for a 43–45cm (17–18") C-T mountain frame
1030712
See in\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topography
144348
go to JEGGS.com  or SUMMITRACING.com   there may not as of yet be any performance up-grades at this time, but those are the people who would know