do you need to use a saddle pad?
403824
i cant imagine making the horse ride with a saddle and no blanket! thats gotta hurt! i would talk to the camp she went to. thats not healthy for the horses.
373922
Your feet should be flat on the ground and the seat should be where your crotch is, a bike shop will tell you that.  If your voice gets high and squeeky, the bike is to big for you.  This of course applies to a bicycle.  If your talking about a motorcycle, I have no idea.
1146124
Outside, or else you'll give your legs sores,\n and that's what gaiters are supposed to help you avoid!
458917
Positioning your saddle is a tricky thing, and is surrounded by a lot of myth and misinformation, and even some black magic.\n\nIt all comes down to personal preference, your body makeup, and the kind of riding you're planning to do.\n\nBoth height, as well as the fore/aft position are important. Saddle tilt is a bit of a personal preference, though many opt for a completely level position.\n\nFore/aft positioning relies on the length of your legs and the style of your riding. Those folks with long femurs who like to push big gears tend to opt for the leverage afforded by positioning the saddle farther back on the seatpost (behind the bottom bracket - the axle the cranks are mounted to). Those with shorter femurs tend to posiiton their saddle a bit forward.\n\nHowever, it should be noted that in most cases, you should ensure that your weight is evenly distributed over the bike. Positioning the saddle too far back or forward may affect the way the bike handles (if the weight is unevenly distributed).\n\nMany folks will tell you to simply position your saddle such that when you're on the bike, your leg should be almost fully extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke. This is a very general method, and may work for most people, but might not be right for you. Listen to your body; do what's comfortable.\n\nNEVER adjust the height of your saddle drastically. Make your adjustments in very small increments over time, so that your body can slowly adapt to the changes without risking injury (knee problems being the biggest of the potential problems). 2-3 mm every 1-2 weeks is good.\n\nLastly, I would recommend finding a reputable, knowledgeable local bike shop to help you out. A good shop will have a sizing system to help you find your optimal setup.\n\nGood luck!
343636
The correct method of measurement for an 'English' saddle is different from the method used for a 'Western' saddle.   We find that many US riders often specify their saddle size as smaller than really required. For example, a Western 15" saddle equates to a 17" English saddle.
724491
try ebay\nalso contact local tack shops for saddles\n\na size 15" is a size 15" no matter what style you ride.  Just make sure you get the right width!\n\nHope this Helps!
804533
Yeah I always wear a musto jacket when Im out in the saddles, its really warm and cosy but very light weight and durable. try here : \n\nhttps://www.tackandski.co.uk/mustojackets.asp
370377
You can buy a cushioned bike seat-cover.  If you can't afford it, try making one yourself, using fluffy cushioned material.
66459
http://www.totalfitnessfl.com/fit/North_Star_Dressage_Saddle_Wide_Tree_z42000_47282.php\nhttp://www.dressage-ext.com/ProductDetail.asp?KEY=3331\nhttp://www.mei.net/~equineline/Dressage%20Saddles.htm
345595
Its all about how you feel and how you ride.  If you tend to do more freeriding you want an alpine style setup (positive angle on front binding and 0 or positive angle on your back binding).  If you do more park or street rails you want to go duck footed (positive angle on front binding and negative angle on back binding).  Try differet setups out to see what you like best and remember its all about personal preference and everyone's setup is different.  The more traditional, beginner setup is +15 degrees front, and 0 degrees back.  I myself ride +15 front and -12 back.
531287
I have never used one but I heard they work really well.  It sounds like you have already made up your mind about them but the same with any saddle what works for some horses doesn't work for others, if you have lots of horses this could be a good alternative because if you are lucky it could fit all of them and you could save money on tack.
778254
John, after looking at the photo of the bike, it looks like the seat is too far back (bad geometry). A plumbline dropped from the outside of the knee should hang close to the center of the pedal post when the pedals are in the 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock postion. Yes, this improper position could potetially cause knee stress, as could seat height, fore and aft positioning, and other factors. I'd recommend having a professional bike tech help you find a good bike, a little money spent on this could save doctor bills and pain later.I hope this is helpful, Steve
995494
A mat is not absolutely necessary.  It is useful for a few things.  It defines the parameters of the posture, it is cushy, and it makes the floor not slippery (carpet would work, but sheet?).  You can tell for yourself if you need it.
935381
It depends on the brand of saddle.\nSome start about $250 or so but they are not a high quality saddle and really only suitable for someone who does not use it much and not everyday. \nThe better ones go around $1000 or more. Those are very nice well built saddle that will hold up to hard use and will last years if taken care of.
819719
try it without the toilet seat
625052
I used to ride one of those big cushy gel seats and still have discomfort, so I talked to someone at a reputable bike shop about it.  He said that those seats can cause you to rotate forward, diminishing pressure on your butt, but increasing pressure on your crotch area and the pubic bone.  He suggested a saddle with a split down the middle because it distributes pressure more evenly.  He said to look for one in which the edges of the split are not too pronounced or "sharp" and selected one he thought would work for me.  Then he put electrical tape on the rails so that I could ride with it a few times and then take it off and remove the tape if it didn't work (so that it would be in new enough condition to return.)  It's worked out pretty well so far and I appreciated the fact that they were willing to find a way to let me test it out.
424356
This is a common problem!\n\nTry the following:\n\n1 Use emery paper to slightly roughen the inside of the seat tube of the bike frame, be careful not to remove paint from the top of the frame or the outside.\n\n2 Surprisingly enough, lubricate the seat tube with white grease.\n\n3 Check that the little cutout at the back of the seat tube is not closed up - if so your seat post is too small for your frame tube!\n\nNow try again.\n\nIf no luck:\n\n3 Go to your bike shop and buy a shim of the correct diameter for your frame (they'll have a range in stock - either take your bike or your seat post to enable the shop to select the right shim).\n\n4 Change the bolt for a lever type - this tightens much more effectively (and allows you to instantly adjust or remove the saddle without tools).\n\nGood luck!