My pool filter is taking too long to clean the dirt collected on the bottom after the winter.?
358821
Also use a "defloculant" to clump the fine dirt togather so the filter will trap the dirt instead of just letting it pass back into the pool.  You should never have to clean your filter more than a few times a week.  Back washing more than that will really screw up your pool chemistry. \n\nThe defloculator is available from all pool and spa stores and will work wonders.  You will also get ti cleaned up faster if you cut your top water intakes back and have most of the water being sucked though the bottom drain.  I have very similar problems with my in ground pool because it's located around lots of pine and other trees.  once I use the deflocculator, I can also use a fine pool net to get alot of it out too.  Good Luck!
13857
Get a new one. The split could become contaminated and is very hard to clean.
1112007
is it a sand filter? if so turn off motor turn handle on top of filter to backwash and run till watwr clears . then turn to rinse for a minuite. then turn to filter or pool. note be sure too turn off motor between each operation.
435888
have your water tested, it could be a virus, a bacterium, or even lead...have it tested ASAP
287325
try casting in the back yard also try putting your thumb lightly on the spool just before it touches the water to slow the spool down. then let it sink...
533462
If it is just a kiddie pool you need to empty it daily. The only thing you can do to keep from killing the grass and having the bad odor is to remove the grass. The weight from the water and the heat (especially over a few days) is what is causing the odor and grass damage. But if you are going to remove the grass and keep the pool up for several days at a time you probably need to start adding chemicals to the water. It's much more economical to empty it. Also you might put it up in a different place every day. GOOD LUCK!
310947
I agree with the lens cleaner thing!!  but you  need to run it a couple of times and get a air can to clean to out!
284044
Try changing the pH of the system and lowering the voltage.  If those don't help go the other way.\n\nhttp://www.cehs.siu.edu/Chemical/silver_waste.htm\n\nhttp://www.p2pays.org/ref/01/00048.htm\n\nhttp://www.finishing.com/73/82.shtml
917242
I have a pool available.
574415
What do you want to treat it for? Do you wnat to soften it? Remove salt? Sterilise it? Remove pesticides? Remove colloids?\n\nNothing short of an activated charcoal filter or distillation will do al those things
335369
It sounds like you've got an algae problem.  You've also got the chemical balance all screwed up.  You'll probably need to take a water sample somewhere and have it tested or get a pool man in to correct the problems.
444274
you can use white vinegar or wet baking soda.\n\njust put enough vinegar or wet baking soda on the soiled area and let stand for a couple of seconds. it works for me.
616659
Download this: http://www.drivercleaner.net/ and follow the instructions explicitly.  It will cure your problem.
786852
I sent an email regarding this to you earlier.\nNo, do not drain the pool completely. Drain only to just below the level of the returns as they are typically the lowest part of the plumbing system. \n There's a lot more to closing a pool than just draining it down a bit. If you want a pool closing guide I have typed up, mail me back.\n\nEdit: As requested, princess, here's the generic guide.\nIdeally, your closing starts a week before you actually get down to putting the cover on. Get your water balanced chemically first. That week allows you to do this.\nOn closing day: Vac the pool and drain it to just below the pool returns. They are typically the lowest point in the system. When drained to that point, add in a winterizing chemical kit (most pool shops sell them), they typically contain an algaecide, shock and sequestering agent . Remove ladders and rails. You may remove the diving board if you wish, or cover it in opaque plastic sheet and secure it. If you totally remove it,  place something over the diving board jig bolts and lube those bolts or tape with duct tape that jut up through the deck. This can prevent stubbed toes and saves the jig bolts from corrosion.You're done at the pool for the moment. Head over to your pool equipment. If this is a sand filtered pool, you ought to have done a backwash, during the draining process, to clean out the filter. If a D.E. pool, then the same applies to clean off the elements. You can remove them later for a thorough cleaning. If a cartridge filter, just remove the cartridge and clean at your leisure.\nFor all filter types, there will be a drain plug, remove it and keep it out.\nOver to the pump. All inground pumps will have 2 plugs, one midway back on one side and one directly in front.All above ground pumps have a single one, located at the front, under the impellor housing. Remove them and place them in the pump basket along with your filter drain plug. It's a nice , safe place, that you won't lose them in, as you'll leave the pump basket right where it is. This next part all depends on your pool plumbing, you'll have to decide the best route as they are all plumbed differently and the many different ways to blow out lines would be a book unto itself. You'll need to tap into both the return and the suction lines. Typically for the returns, you disconnect a line between your filter and heater (if equipped) and for the suction, you can go directly in from the front of the pump, without disconnecting anything. Doing it this way, will allow you to blow all the water out of the heater, pool returns, any waterfall or fountain(if equipped) or attached spa. Same goes for the suction line for skimmer, in wall suction for a pool cleaner and attached spa suctions (if equipped). You can rent a line blower from a rent all or your local pool shop, or you can use a medium sized shop vac that has a blow feature. The shop vac hose is actually the same diameter as the inside diameter of most pool plumbing (1 1/2 inch) so it makes a good fit. Blow out the lines, until you only see a tiny dribble at the pool, both suction and return. Charge the line with plumber's antifreeze (not automotive) and blow that through to the pool, for all lines. When you see the dye colour of the antifreeze at the pool, it means that the antifreeze protection is sufficient. Plug with your telflon taped winter plugs, all lines ending at the pool. Put something squishable (empty chemical containers or an old partially filled inner tube) into the skimmer to protect it from freeze damage. Remove the pressure guages from the filter and put them in the pump basket with your equipment plugs.\nThere are 3 basic types of pool heater, electric, gas and solar. You don't mention which you have, so I'll assume if you do have one, it's gas. Open the drain cocks on both sides of the heater header (you blew out all the water , when doing the lines, should just be a little anti freeze tha
1116179
Use an inline ionizer instead of chlorine. It takes one cartridge a year an you mainly use chlorine only to shock the pool. \nYou may need a little chlorine with a lot of use but this system works great.
292798
Probably best to send to a specialist cleaner.  Water & leather cleaners leave tide marks.
97101
Did you try replacing the filter. just a thought.