how do I know how much anchor rope I need. I plan on being in about 60-80 feet of water. I was told 300' ???
367553
A safe minimum anchor rode length in normal weather conditions is a 7 to 1 (rode length to depth) ratio, or 5 to 1 for an all chain rode. "Depth" in this case is the actual depth of the water at high tide, plus the height of the anchor hawser above the water's surface. (Scope = [water depth + hawser height] X 7). So if high water is 20 ft. deep, and your bow roller is 5 ft. above the water, you'll need to use at least 175 ft. (25 ft. X 7) of line-plus-chain anchor rode to anchor. It's a good idea to have your anchor rodes marked off in ten- or twenty-foot increments to facilitate reading rode length as you feed it out. If you anticipate a blow, a ten to one scope isn't too much to pay out. To the extent that harbor space permits, the heavy weather rule is the more scope the better! Remember that putting out too little scope is one of the most common mistakes skippers make when anchoring. Later, they wonder why their boat dragged up onto a lee shore during a squall!
837697
1.  hard description...but if the cables are on opposite sides of the "weight" than the answer is...\n\nwell, if the 30 degrees is to the vertical than tension is equal to  29/cos30 degrees\n\nif it is to the horizontal than it is 29/sin 30 degrees.\n\n2.  again depends on the instructions...if thre 30 degree cable is to the vertical its    29 x tan30   \nhorizontal is 29/tan30\n\nsorry my first one was wrong, had to edit it
97465
Actually with a 500 lb. boat and a muddy seabottom a small mushroom anchor will hold you nicely under reasonable conditions.  The problem is when you need your anchor the most it will not be in reasonable condtions.  In my opinion the least discussed function of an anchor is as a safety device.  In the boat you discribe you will not be relying on the anchor to hold you fast while you sleep through the night.  But it may save your life some day by keeping you from going over a low head dam or ending up in the surf on a rocky shore. So you are correct to be concerned about what type on anchor to use on even a small boat.\n\nMy thoughts are these.  When the going gets tough you don't want to be relying a a mushroom or similar inferior type anchor.  But, also, on a boat this size space is at a premium.  A claw anchor or a plow will take up alot of room.  What you really what is a danforth type anchor.  They fold flat and perform very well for there weight.  You certainly dont need a 20-30 LB danforth as the guy above said.  That anchor would be capable of holding a 40' boat.  A 4 or 5 lb. danforth anchor should be adequate for you boat.  The next thing you need is a 4' to 6' lenght of chain to attach to the anchor.  What the chain does is cause the "pull" on the anchor to be more horizontal making the flukes dig in and hold.  You will want to attach a 100-150' length of three strand nylon rode to that chain and you are set.  The more rode you let out the better it will hold.  West Marine (westmarine.com)has some helpful advice and a wide selection of anchors with ratings.  Even if you dont want to buy from them they have good information.\n\nFair winds and following seas buddy.
554947
how high do you want it?\n\nthe cheapest is frost fencing.  don't buy the shit from the hardware store but order from a real fence company.  just dig the holes, plant the posts wtih a level, and then stretch the wire over it.  shouldn't be more than a two man job maybe rent a bobcat to come and drill your holes for a big field.
482773
12.59 centimeters = 0.413057743 feet\n\ntype in cm to ft at google for this, or any other conversions.
713117
Get a roll of construction plastic, it's available at Home Depot.  Do not use the kind from the pain department, it is too thin.\n\nUnroll it and unfold it  on as flat a surface as u can.   It should end up being about 10 feet wide by whatever length you wish.  If it is too small you can add a second later.\n\nFirst, you'll need some snow to pile around under the edges so that the outsides are higher than the rest of it.  Then hose it down, (fairly thin).  It will freeze overnight, NOW you can add a second sheet of plastic beside the first one (if you try to do it all at once then the water will seep through the seam).  \n\nRepeat the first step with a thin amount of water.  The thinner the water, the quicker it will freeze.  Believe it or not, the HOTTER the water the faster it freezes.  \n\nContinue with layers of water, only a little at a time.  It will probably take about a week before you can skate on it.\n\nEnjoy!
1038010
10 feet is about 3 meters, going on that 3 X 6 is 18 and change. so I would say that 60 feet is 18 meters.
452678
i lived and fished their, remember your in deeper water so you may need a longer steel leader, do not use the nylon for your leader go to a store buy Thar steel leader kits wire,barrel ls, crimping tool. that set up is your friend. and do not be afraid of asking another fisherman pay attention and watch the success full ones. all so if you are rigged properly, and using the right jig,spinner,bait etc. if still not catching change your hook size people come their and use the largest hooks not necessary. and have fun, it is so beautifully there. god bless good luck.
467048
Buy rope and 4 wooden poles. Use 2 mattreses underneath.
773407
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI would strongly suggest Sportsmans Guide, see link below.\n\nGood luck!
1146064
Simple, throw some food that floats on the water and wait a few minutes until enough fish have gathered, then attach an M80 unless you have access to something strnger- a1/4 stick should do jsut fine- to a weight and a line and light and lower in to the water as quietly as possible to about 5-6 feet. Then just use a net to collect your catch
832042
The vertical, horizontal components of all forces should balance.\n       Let the tensions in the ropes be T1 and T2 newtons.\n       T1*cos(90-71) + T2*cos(90-28) = 254.8\n       i.e., T1*sin71 + T2*sin28 = 254.8\n\n       For horizontal componets (which are opp. & equal)\n       T1*cos71 + T2*cos28 = 0\n\nSolve for T1, T2 please.
909914
You're best off using fishing wire rather than string but you won't need a frame. Make sure the balloons are evenly spaced and tether them well at both ends.
142000
ok first off i'd like to point out that the navy uses 3 things that fit into the general category you are talking about\nrope (line)\nSteel cable (wire rope)\nChain (chain)\n\nit depends on what you are using each for.  i'm assuming now that you mean to tie off to the pier?  if not then please note it in the add details section.\n\nok the navy uses lines and sometimes wire rope to tie off to the pier however it is almost exclusively lines.  now if you are asking if one is stronger than the other than it depends on the size and material you are  talking about.  generally here's the breakdown and i'm not going to type in all of the increments cuz i really don't feel like it.\n\nusuallly the navy uses nylon lines as opposed to polypropylene and manila (marline) now a days though they are now trying to switch to kevlar (i'll get to that later)\n\nthese are the break pounds ratings for line vs wire rope\n\n       nylon......wire rope\n1/2"   6400.......18700\n1"     25000......72800\n1 1/2" 53000......160000\n2"     92000......278000\n2 1/2" 140000.....424000\n\nacross the board the wire rope is stronger yes but now look at it this way.  the navy uses 2 1/2" lines to tie off ships to the pier at 140000 lbs the wire rope equivalent would be 1 1/2".  now per 100 feet the line weighs 149 lbs\nthe wire rope weighs 360 lbs  its a matter of being able to handle the lines a 360 lb line is just to bulky and heavy also the mooring operation is very complex and wire rope kinks and twists in ways that tend to make it not easy to handle.  thats just for beginners now you have getting underway.  if pearl harbor happened again you think you're going to want to mess with 360 lbs of wire rope in a big tanged mess in order to get underway.  NO  you cut the lines loose.  then you have the issue of lines doing what is known as PARTING.  this is where the line (line here meaning MOORING LINE be it line or rope) breaks.  with nylon line you can install what is known as a tattle tale.  it is a smaller piece of line that is spliced into the line as the line stretches (and it WILL) if it is going to part.  the tattletail's will pop first giving warning to relax the line quickly or get the hell out the way.  when a nylon line parts it whips back like a rubberband at faster than the speed of sound it WILL KILL PEOPLE if they are in the WRONG place at the WRONG TIME.  now a rope whan it parts.  first you won't know it's coming cus there is very little stretch to a rope so no tattletail. second if you tried to put in a tattletail it would weaken the rope. now here's the kicker when a rope parts.  it not only snaps back but it also becomes in escence a shrapnel grenade.  there is no right or wrong place to be when a rope parts. IT WILL GET YOU.  and if it doesn't kill you.  you AIN'T GONNA BE HAPPY! remember i mensioned KEVLAR Lines?\n\nthe navy is switching to them cuz A: they weigh about the same as the Nylon does B: they are stronger C: you can put a tattletail in them without weakening them and D: when they part they simply drop down into the water. they don't snap back and kill people.  this is of course just the basics i'm not mensioning the myriad other reasons like chemical exposure rust etc etc...
351254
As Bogey said before, its best to ask your local surfboard dealer and see what they think. Be honest about your ability and experience. I see too many people that cant surf and will never learn to surf properly simply because they are riding a board that is not suitable to their weight, height or skill level. \n\nHeres a little bit of help for you anyway, just a few examples.\n\nHeight in CMS to what kind of Starter board you would probably need, for two to five foot surf. These are probablys and not definitleys, because its still best to check em out yourself with your dealer.\n\nSomeone 150 CMS would want something around 5'8 and up\n        160 CMS would want something around 6'2 and up\n        170 CMS would want something around 6'6 and up\n        180 CMS would want something around 6'10 amd up\n        190 CMS would want something around 7,2 and up\n        200 CMS would want something around 7,6 and up\n\nYour weight is the most important issue, if you are too heavy for a certain board, it will sink when you stand on it. \n\nWhen learning its best to use a board about 2.5 Inches thick and about 21 Inches Wide.\n\nAs said before Fun Boards are pretty good for people startin out, get an NSP board or something like that.\n\nHope this helps you out. Have fun.
427198
I think I'm gonna look like I've got no clue whatsoever if I answer this one but, still, I'll give it a try risking my reputation. \n\nFirst of all, I didn't have a clue what you meant by a "buckyball", then I looked it up in a dictionary, now I know its a nickname for the C-60 Buckminsterfullerene. Thanks for adding one more word in my vocubulary (I desperately need a better vocubulary). \n\nNow, coming to your question, to determine the strengh of a rope made of C-60, umm.. I'll take a coward's way out by not going into the molecular constitution of the rope. As the physical strengh is an observable physical quantity, I'll solve the problem on a macroscopic scale. \nI'll hang a heavy mass with the help of the Carbon rope and will keep increasing the mass untill the rope ruptures.\nNow, I'll note down -\n1- The Weight (mass * acceleration due to gravity) that broke the rope.\n&\n2- The cross sectional area of the rope.\n\nNow, I'll just divide the Ultimate Weight by the cross sectional area of the rope to get the TENSILE STRENGTH of the rope.\n\nNow, I'll adopt the same procedure with the steel cable.\n\nI think, that way, we can easily compare the tensile strengths of the carbon & steel ropes.\n\nNow, to answer the second part, the density of the C-60 rope. Here too, I'll use a method that doesn't involve the molecular constitution of the rope (sorry again).-\nI'll use the Archimedes' Principle instead-\nLets first assign signs to the physical quantities-\nW = Weight of the Rope\nF = Buoyant force\nd1 = density of our rope\nd2 = density of the water (or the fluid in which you choose to immerse the rope)\nV1 = Volume of the rope\nV2 = Volume of water displaced by the rope.\ng = acceleration due to gravity\n\nTake the rope & put it into water (or any other fluid), now first see if it floats or gets submerged.\n\n\nIf it gets submerged, you can say that-\nW - F = (d1 - d2) * V1 * g \n(as the volume of the rope is equal to the volume of water displaced here)\nNow, knowing other quantites, we can calculate density of the rope!\n\nIf it floats-\nW = F\nd1 * V1 * g = d2 * V2 * g\n\nd1/d2 = V2/V1\n\nIf you take water as the fluid, d2 = 1000 kg/m^3
302860
If there is a bait shop near the pier than go and talk to the fisherman. (the ones who are catching fish)  But usually the bait store guy will tell you because his buddys are giving him the report. The most siimple way to rig is the top and bottom wire riggs, 1,2,3and maby 4, oz weights. dipending on what is biteing, use a #1 or # circle hook, if sea trout,(the stealth bombers of the sea) use somthing smaller cause they can hit and run in 2 seconds flat and steal your bait.  all of this stuff is cheap enough so buy a few extras cause your going to loose some on rocks and seaweed. 20 dollars will have you fishing for a month or two.