Electrician Question: what are Amps?
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"So 50 amps without considering lighting."\nthats the pitfall right there. \n\nAmperes is the unit for measuring current. Since the supply voltage is fixed at 110 v (I assume you are in the americas), the amount of energy you are using is given by the number of amps you are drawing.\n\nthe current drawn by each of the appliances, adds up arithmetically. Ideally your supply should support running all your appliances at the same time. and that should include lighting. \n\nif your lighting draws close to or more than 10 amps then you are overshooting your supply rating, you should upgrade.\n\nLike somebody else mentioned, air conditioning units and picture tubes draw a large amount of current (much larger than the value mentioned on the manual), when they start up. I'm not sure how your panel/utility company policy are set up to handle this, but it can be a problem if you are operating with too little amperage to spare.\n\nagain you are right that all the equipment would not be operating at full blast at the same time, but think of this hypothetical situation: after a power outtage, all the equipment want power to get back to normal operating state (heated/cooled/whatever), you might have to bring them up in stages, switching on one unit 30 mins after the earlier one was switched on..\n\nand there is one more thing you are overlooking: planning for growth. you dont want to go through the hassle of upgrading your supply limits just because you bought a new neon lamp for your window :)
1130014
V=IR\n\nWire 1:\n50 = 2 * R1 => R1 is 25 ohms\nCurrent = 2 amps\npower = V*I = 2*50 = 100 watts\n\nWire 2: \n100= 2* R2 => R2 = 50 ohms\nCurrent=2amps\npower = V*I = 100*2 = 200 watts\n\nare you looking for ratios when you say "compare" ?\nif yes: ratio of resistances is  1:2\nratio of currents is 1:1\nand ratio of power is 1:2
789710
15 Amps? Looks like 10 gauge, see the link, take a grain of salt. This site says 15 amps, regardless of voltage. Tough to believe, since we care about heating, which is power, which is P=IV, so stating the current doesn't mention the power. But power is also RI^2, so I guess they know R, so they know power with current squared.
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When people refer to "amplifiers," they're usually talking about stereo components or musical equipment. But this is only a small representation of the spectrum of audio amplifiers. There are actually amplifiers all around us. You'll find them in televisions, computers, portable CD players and most other devices that use a speaker to produce sound. \nIn this article, we'll see what amplifiers do and how they do it. Amplifiers can be very complex devices, with hundreds of tiny pieces, but the basic concept behind them is pretty simple. You can get get a clear picture of how an amplifier works by examining the most basic components. \n\nYou can continue reading the article by accessing the link below.
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none. amps has no weight, its a flow of current. It's like calculating tonnage to speed. How many tons does 100 mph represent?
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Three  terms you need to know are:\n\nVoltage- This is the "potential" to make current flow through \n                a wire.  (measured in volts)\nCurrent- This is the actual electrons or "electricity"  which \n               "flows" through the wire. (measured in amperes or amps)\nResistance- This is the quality of a substance which tends to \n                      allow or inhibit the flow of electricity.\n\nOne more term is power. This is measured in Watts and is \n given as 1 Watt=(1 volt)(1 amp)\n\nHere's how it works.  You put a voltage across a wire.\nYou decide the voltage.  It does not change.  The wire and bulb has "resistance" and only lets a certain amount or current flow.  The current flows through the bulb and lights the bulb.\n So both 100 watt bulbs and 40 watt bulbs have the same \n120v "voltage".  The difference  is that less current flows through the 40 watt bulb, so it is dimmer.\nRemember that power or "Watts" is current  times voltage.\nso lower wattage means lower current.\nThe question should be how much current does each bulb use.\nThe answer is: 100 watt-5/6 amp\n60 watt- 1/2 amp\n40 watt- 1/3 amp
621328
ohm, V/m, Amp  <--- with the exception of flux, those units were set as those by the SI
75746
You'll need to provide a little more information in order to have your question answered properly.  AC or DC? Input voltage?  Fixed or variable output voltage? If variable, over what range? If fixed, what is the desired output voltage?  Output current?  How critical is the load regulation?\n\nAs you can see, the answer to your simple question can be a bit complicated :)
1015592
An ampere is a measure of current -- how much electricity is passing through your wire at any given time.  An ohm is a measure of resistance -- how much is the wire resisting the flow electricity through the wire.  Although many electrical engineers frown on this analogy, I find it useful: Think of your wire as a big garden hose.  You turn on the water and charge the hose.  The water pressure is kind of analogous to voltage -- it's the difference between the pressure at the source and the open end of the hose, and is a measure of potential between the two points.  Amperage is kind of like flow rate -- how many gallons a minute are you getting out of that hose?  And resistance is a measure of the friction slowing the flow down, as well as any back-pressure if you stuck your finger over the end or if the hose develops a kink.  If you got a bigger hose, you could obviously move more water and it is less likely to get constricted (thicker wire means it can handle more amps, and has less resistance to flow) but you'd have to have a bigger pressure source to push that much water through it (needs a higher voltage to maintain the same level of current through a thicker wire)  Does that help?
1186419
That would depend on the voltage. Current = Watts / Volts\nA couple of examples:\n110V - 90.9 Amps\n220V - 45.45 Amps\n240V - 41.67 Amps\n440V - 22.7 Amps\n10,000V - 1 Amp
89341
Just buy the plugpack.\n\nIf you want more amps, or variable volts, be specific.
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I'm an Electrical Engineer.\nI studied (30 years ago!) Heavy current applications.\nI generally deal with Supply and transmission of electrical energy from the generation point, until it reaches your socket outlet in your house, office or factory. I size cables, fuses and switchgear. I design lighting installations, Fire alarms, Security alarms, Access control, Lightning protection and general feeds to other building controls and equipment within the construction industry.\n\nElectronic Engineers would have studied light current applications. They are professional within the equipment construction industry, and are responsible for design or servicing and repair of Electronically biaised equipment, such as TV's, Computers, Hi-Fi, DVD etc.\n\nThere is a cross over point between the 2 professions.\nFor example; Electronically biaised engineers would design a central control for Building Management, but would not normally be able to safely design the remote heavy current switches that the system actuates, or have in depth knowledge of the stringent regulations which are mandatory.\n\nI wouldn't try and mend my TV, and I sure as hell wouldn't want an Electronics engineer wiring my house! (Their cables are far to small!)\n\nThat's about as complicated as it gets!
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Ampacity is the amount of current flowing in a circuit. The wire size, depends on the amount of current flowing, and usually a safety margin based on the heating effect from the current in the wire.\n\nFor a typical house wiring, at 120VAC, the current is 500W/120Vac = 4.2amps. The typical wire size is 14AWG. This wire can easily handle the 4.2amps. Actually, the 14AWG is good up to 15amps for most house wiring per NEC national electrical code.\n\nIf you are working with a 12VDC system or circuit, then the current is 40amps and you should be using 8AWG wire minimum.\n\nWhat's your application?\n\nCheck out the following link:
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There are no watts in one volt.\n\nWatts is a measure of the rate of energy transfer. If you only have voltage, you have no energy transfer. Your wall outlet has voltage, but no electricity is actually flowing through it (until you plug something in), so there is no wattage.\n\nVoltage is the 'pressure' of the electricity - how hard it pushes to get through the circuit. Amperage is the actual quantity of electricity moving through the wire. Multiply the two of them together, and you get your wattage.
663382
light bulb is the load. conductor would be the way to get the power to the load and other devices , the switch is the way to stop and start the flow of current, the insulator will keep the power from leaving its proper path, the ammeter will tell you how fast the power is being used in amps , volt meter will tell you what the pressure of the power is in volts, the battery is your storage of power.
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for where?\n\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrician
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The symbol for electrical load is Z called impedence.\n\nThis consists of the inducticve reactance, capacitative reactance and ohmic resistance.