what is level 2 quotes in investing?
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A) In level II quotes  you receive all bids and asking prices  at which participants are willing to buy or sell stock. Level II quotes had some use when nobody had them, maybe help you spot some obvious support prices that every market participant knows already. \n\nB) Yes, if you want to be market maker ?? you can only trade in cents increments. Thus, most liquid stocks you wont get that.  If you have a limit order you will receive the price you stated or better. If you trade thinly stocks, limit is the way to go.  Still, plenty of times, many of my orders have not been filled at the limit price. It is the worse believe me. Yes, you can make a market in some illiquid stocks, making your bid appear a couple of cents above the current one. Unless you are a day trader, no need to worry about it too much. \n\nC) When you make a market order, your buy (sell) will execute at the ask(bid) avalaible at the moment, you will get the stock at the price show on your quote. In fast moving markets, you will get different fills.\n\nSince, you are asking this questions go with limit or market orders whatever you feel comfortable and try not to day-trade. Be careful.
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Your question reveals the fact that you are a complete newbie with very weak basic, fundamental knowledge in the stock markets and is about to do something you might regret for a very long time.\n\nListening to free, off the street advice is an expressway to disaster. Read more good books and articles on investments to expand your vision and horizon before you decide to go deeper into the subject. For some of the best investment books that I have ever read, please visit http://www.bestoptiontradingbooks.com\n\nInvesting or trading the stock markets never start from asking how to buy a certain stock ... it starts from adequate investment and trading knowledge. There are quite a number of things you need to learn before you can even start thinking of the stock markets ...\n\n1. You need to understand how the stock market works and what it is exactly about.\n\n2. You need to know what are the different styles of trading in stocks and shares. \n\n3. You need to read about why so many people lose their shirts in the stock markets so that you can avoid their mistakes and also decide if this is a risk you want to take.\n\nFor all these issues and more, you can read about them from some of the articles that I wrote at http://www.mastersoequity.com/articles.htm\n\nAfter you are adequately armed with the basic concepts and ideas, you need to know how to find profitable stocks to trade or invest in. You can do that the easy way by subscribing to stock pick services (example http://www.stockpickmaster.com ) or you can learn to use charting tools and softwares to find stocks with parameters that you can pre-define. (example http://www.worden.com ) \n\nAll in all, investment and trading is a lifelong education and non stop learning. No one is ever done learning and catching up with changes in the markets. \n\nIf you care to read about how I went from completely broke to retired millionaire trading stocks and options by 28 years old, you can go to http://www.mastersoequity.com/\n\nRemember, the slogan "Just Do It", Just won't do for the stock markets. If profiting in the stock markets is as simple as buying a single stock , then why are so many people still poor?\n\nAfter you have all the above mentioned knowledge, you need to ask the following golden questions before you can decide whether a stock is worth buying or not :\n\n1. Why are you of the opinion that this stock will rise?\n\n2. Is your opinion valid in the first place?\n\n3. When are you expecting it to rise? Can you hold on for that period of time or longer?\n\n4. What is your expected entry price? After what price would your expected profit margin be too thin to enter upon?\n\n5. Where is your expected stop loss point? What is your stop loss point based on? Where will you tell yourself that it is time to take a loss and get out?\n\n6. Where is your expected profit taking point? What is your profit taking point based on? \n\n7. Does the way you are buying the stock allow you to hold on until your expected profit taking point?\n\n8. How much of your money should you dedicate to this one trade?\n\n9. What is the level of primary, secondary and idiosyncratic risk you are undertaking when deciding how much of your fund to use?\n\n10. What is your cashflow need? Does your cashflow needs allow you to hold the full lifetime of the stock?\n\nAfter you are able to answer all these questions confidently, THEN you are ready to... PAPER TRADE your stock strategy. Yes, even at this point, you are NOT READY to trade for real. You should trade on PAPER for at least 6 months and become consistently successful BEFORE you take your stock strategy into real life.\n\nThen.. you are ready to start... but there is still no guarantee of success as paper trading is very different from real trading. You will need another maybe 1 year or 2 trading very little money and be consistently successful BEFORE you are ready to increase your stakes.\n\n\nSo, as you can see, success in the stock market
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Don't use any answer in this forum to go by.  \n\nThey don't know you & they don't know your goals. You didn't identify what your time horizon is (ie: buy a car next year or retire in 35 years).  You haven't identifed your risk tolorence. What's your investment experiance level?\n\nWithout these "basics" no one can suggest anything that's really good for you!\n\nGood luck
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http://finance.yahoo.com/q/bc?s=GBPUSD=X&t=2y
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Bridgeway Aggressive Investors 2 Fund
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It depends on what you would concider good and how much risk you are taking with your investments.\n\nIf you are investing in money market .25%/month is good right now.\n\nIf you are investing in bonds, about .65%/month is good.\n\nIf you are investing in large cap stocks, about .85%/month.\n\nIf you are investing in medium cap stocks, about 1%/month.\n\nIf you are investing in small cap stocs, about 1.2%/month.\n\nIf you are buying gold or other precious metals, about 1.5%.\n\nBalance risk vs. return is the key...take a little risk with a little bit of your money...
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My quote is " When wealth is lost, nothing is lost. When health is lost, something is lost. When character is lost, all is lost!"
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A diversified protfolio.\nAccording to financial theory widely accepted and used in practise. The only investment with a guaranteed return is FDIC insured accounts or goverment bonds. Beyond that the more risk you are willing to take the greater returns you can expect.\n\nA financial advisor can help you assess you risk tolerance level and then advise you how much of your investment to allocate to US stocks, International Stocks, bonds, and/or cash.\n\nIf any investment was certain to be worth more next year, the price would have already risen today.\n\ngood luck
17940
click on the link and there is a whole list of stuff. But to answer your question... Once you reach 250 points you'll be at level 2!
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1.   Write down the amount of your total investment, including fees and expenses, if any. For example, if you bought $950 worth of stock and your fees were $50, then your total investment is $950 + $50, or $1,000.  \n  \n2.   Write down the amount of profit or loss associated with your investment. If your $1,000 investment in stocks is worth $1,200 one year later, then your profit is $1,200 - $1,000, or $200.  \n  \n3.   Calculate the ROI by dividing the profit by the total investment: $200/$1000 = 0.20, or a 20 percent annual ROI.
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Investments with a doubling would be a geometric sequence.  Terms depend on a *multiplication* of previous terms, so it is geometric.\n\nc) geometric sequence.
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Buy a diversified series of mutual funds. Make sure you hit all the assets classes, like Large cap stocks, small/mid cap stocks, international stocks, emerging markets stocks, government debt, corporate debt, hi-yield debt, foreign debt, emerging markets debt, real estate, commodities, and precious metals. That's 12 categories right there, so with $1000, you're talking about $83 each. Why not spring for an extra 200 bucks, and start each off with $100 even?\n\nThen sit back and rebalance each year, back to your original percentages. This is called asset allocation. The thinking being, what's BEEN hot is more than likely not going to STAY hot.\n\nThis sort of portfolio should average 8-12% per year, so jsut split the difference and say 10%. Will it do 10% EVERY year? Of course not. I'd be surprised if it ever did EXACTLY 10%. That's an annual average. With that average, your money should double roughly every 7 years.\nSo, if you're starting with $2,000 or so like you said in the question, then in 7 years you should have about $4,000\nin 14 years you should have about $8,000\nin 21 years you should have about $16,000\nin 28 years you should have about $32,000\nin 35 years you should have about $64,000\nin 42 years you should have about $128,000\nin 49 years you should have about $256,000\nin 56 years you should have about $512,000\nin 63 years you should have about $1,024,000\nin 70 years you should have about $2,048,000!\n\n\nOf course, if you keep adding money in, say $100 a month, you'll become a millionaire MUCH sooner. The key is discipline, and sticking in when markets are up OR down. Don't try to time the market--you'll NEVER get it right.\n\nOh, and if you qualify, and do this all in a Roth IRA? Then every penny will be 100% TAX-FREE. That's a deal that's too good to pass up. That's why I tell all my under-30 clients--if you make under $90,000, and therefore qualify to do a Roth, you'd be a fool not to. Just having the power of youth (and therefore time) on your side is such an advantage, to squander it would be such a waste!\n\nHope this helps!\n--J.
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Buy a diversified series of mutual funds. Individual stocks are just way too risky in most cases, especially for novice investors, even if they look like a sure thing.  How are Enron and Worldcom doing right now?\n\nMake sure you hit all the assets classes, like Large cap stocks, small/mid cap stocks, international stocks, emerging markets stocks, government debt, corporate debt, hi-yield debt, foreign debt, emerging markets debt, real estate, commodities, and precious metals. That's 12 categories right there, so let's say you get started with with $1200, you're talking about $100 each. \n\nThen sit back and rebalance each year, back to your original percentages. This is called asset allocation. The thinking being, what's BEEN hot is more than likely not going to STAY hot. All markets, after all, are cyclical.  This is why people who invest their 401(k) by just putting in whatever's had the most recent best numbers never get anywhere--they're investig in something that DID will and IS probably NOT doing well.\n\nThis sort of portfolio should average 8-12% per year, so just split the difference and say 10%. Will it do 10% EVERY year? Of course not. I'd be surprised if it ever did EXACTLY 10%. That's an annual average. With that average, your money should double roughly every 7 years. \nSo, in 7 years you should have about $2,000\nin 14 years you should have about $4,000\nin 21 years you should have about $8,000\nin 28 years you should have about $16,000\nin 35 years you should have about $32,000\nin 42 years you should have about $64,000\nin 49 years you should have about $128,000\nin 56 years you should have about $256,000\nin 63 years you should have about $512,000\nin 70 years you should have about $1,024,000!\n\nOf course, if you keep adding money in, say $100 a month, you'll become a millionaire MUCH sooner. The key is discipline, and sticking in when markets are up OR down. Don't try to time the market--you'll NEVER get it right.\n\nHere's a handy formula:\n\n$100/month x 12% retutn x 20 years = $100,000.  \n\nSo if you invest $300 a month, you can expect to have $300,000 or so in 20 years, depending on what return you get.  And remember, even if you stop there, that money itself will double again in 7-10 years, depending.  Then double again.  Then double again.  You get the idea.\n\nIn short, you can make a HELL of a lot of money, with a small output on your part, if you do it right, and are patient.\n\nOh, and if you qualify, and do this all in a Roth IRA? Then every penny will be 100% TAX-FREE. That's a deal that's too good to pass up. That's why I tell all my under-30 clients--if you make under $90,000, and therefore qualify to do a Roth, you'd be a fool not to. Just having the power of youth (and therefore time) on your side is such an advantage, to squander it would be such a waste!\n\nHope this helps!\n--J.\n\nP.S. The previous answerer's advice about contacting Edward Jones is gold.  I would go to their website at www.edwardjones.com, enter your zip code, and find the closest office to you.  Chances are there's one within 10 miles.  They have 10,000 office in the US, UK, and Canada.  And they will take care of you right if you decide you don't want to go it alone.
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Quote by someonenormal "read wealthy people books and learn from their experiences and take their ideas seriously"\n\nHe didn't ask how to make someone ELSE rich, he asked how he could be rich.  All those "wealthy people" how-to books do is make the authors even richer.\n\nYou want to get rich in a short period of time?  Rob a bank.  You want to get rich over time, intelligently?  Save and invest, every month, systematically, in a diversified and properly asset allocated portfolio of investments.  Problem solved.\n\nHope this helps!\n--J.
588009
National Association of Securities Dealer Automated Quotation.
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http://finance.yahoo.com/q?s=SBUX
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Hi, I don't know if you mean stock quotes or stock evaluation when you wrote "Financial Advice" \n\nConcerning Stock Quotes: there are not real-time stock quotes for free but there are delayed ones like www.arabfinance.com\n\nConcerning Stock Advice: as in what to buy / hold/ sell, you have to be a client of a reputable securities company like HC Brokerage, EFG-Hermes and the likes to get access to their research. The only problem is that these brokers require that you open an account for LE. 500,000+\n\nGood luck