What degree loft is a pitching wedge?
363998
Flop Wedge-64 degrees\nLob Wedge-60 degrees\nSand Wedge-56 degrees\nGap Wedge-52 degrees\nPitching Wedge-49/48 degrees
48801
Recent research shows that the best loft is the one matched to your swing speed. The slower your swing speed, the higher the loft you will generally need to get maximum distance. Even though this is against common sense, the goal for most is to produce a ball flight that is higher, not lower. By all means, experiment with higher loft drivers and see for yourself.
414093
I could not find any information about distance.  I cut and paste some info I found.  I sent my Titleist Rep an e-mail asking the same question.  I will send you the info.  \n\nGolf balls travel farther when they are warm.\nSomewhat true. Colder temperatures do decrease a ball's velocity more than warm temperatures; although, the air temperature affects distance much more significantly than the temperature of the ball. The moral of the story is don't bother putting the ball in the oven before teeing off. Your pocket will do just fine. A two-piece ball will have a little faster initial velocity off the clubface in cold weather, so keep that in mind next time the frost is on the ground. \n\nThe weather report also influences which ball to choose. Warm conditions can expand balls, calling for players to use a higher compression. A harder ball helps in high humidity or in low sea level areas, where thick air slows the ball down. \n\nConversely, cold weather tends to harden the ball. Players can counteract the effect by choosing lower compression balls. Softer balls also help in high altitudes where air is thinner and there is less resistance
550489
The infield shall be a 90 foot square. The outfield shall be the area between two foul lines formed by extending two sides of the square.  The distance from home base to the nearest fence, stand or other obstruction on fair territory shall be 250 feet or more. A distance of 320 feet or more along the foul lines, and 400 feet or more to center field is preferable. The infield shall be graded so that the base lines and home plate are level. The pitcher's plate shall be 10 inches above the level of home plate. The degree of slope from a point 6 inches in front of the pitcher's plate to a point 6 feet toward home plate shall be 1 inch to 1 foot, and such degree of slope shall be uniform. The infield and outfield, including the boundary lines, are fair territory and all other area is foul territory. It is desirable that the line from home base through the pitchers plate to second base shall run East Northeast. It is recommended that the distance from home base to the backstop, and from the base lines to the nearest fence, stand or other obstruction on foul territory shall be 60 feet or more.  When location of home base is determined, with a steel tape measure 127 feet, 3 3/8 inches in desired direction to establish second base. From home base, measure 90 feet toward first base; from second base, measure 90 feet toward first base; the intersection of these lines establishes first base. From home base, measure 90 feet toward third base; from second base, measure 90 feet toward third base; the intersection of these lines establishes third base. The distance between first base and third base is 127 feet, 3 3/8 inches.
628550
same angle degree, same lenght of a side.
687835
What an array of answers! Fast Pitch softball pitching distance is 40' in High School and 43' in college and womens. Younger ages vary from 30' to 40'. Men is 46'. Slow pitch is up to 50'. High ark is around 46' but I'm not sure.
962609
The M/A of a wedge (disregarding friction) = cot(wedge angle)\n\nUnfortunately, there's a LOT of friction, so it's not so simple after all!
1094248
1.  feet shoulder width apart\n2.  bat comfortably behind your head or shoulders\n3.  righty- left arm as straight as you can without straining, lefty, vice versa\n4.  As the pitcher is bringing his arm up to pitch, slowly shift your weight back to your back foot and bring your whole body back.\n5.  As you swing bring your weight forward, point your front foot forward, keep your front leg straight, about a 45 degree angle to the ground, turn your back foot so that is straight with your other foot, bend your back knee, bring your arms through at a more downward angle, turn your top wrist over, keep your head in the same spot (shoulder to shoulder), see the ball the whole way, hit the top of the ball, finish with your weight still on your back foot.\n\nline drives are the best hits usually, and if you try to loft the ball, you'll ruin your swing.\n\nhope it helps!
964943
(4.7)(9.81)cos 20 degree   ... you do the calculator punching..\n\ncheers
299016
Believe it or not, you loft the ball by hitting down on it.  The initial trajectory is determined by the loft of the club face.  Hitting down on the ball gives it backspin, which will actually make it climb higher in flight.  No part of your divot should be behind the ball.  Ideally, the club should strike the ball and ground simultaneously and the entire divot be in front of where the ball was sitting.\n\nUnless conditions were very severe, I would never try to hit up at a ball, even with a driver and the ball on a tee.  That would impart overspin to the ball, which will make it dive into the ground.  Little ball flight and a lot of roll may be called for against a strong wind on a very dry and bald fairway, but is not the preferred shot shape most of the time.  Swing level with your driver.  Let the clubface put the ball in the air.
845664
Tout dépend de la qualité du swing. En général, pour un joueur moyen et en "portée" (sans roulement de la balle) :\n- Sand wedge : 40 à 60 m\n- Pitching wedge : 70 à 90 m\n- fer 9 = 90 à 100 m\n- fer 8 = 100 à 110 m\n- fer 7 = 110 à 130 m\n- fer 6 = 120 à 140 m \n- fer 5 = 130 à 150 m\n- fer 4 = 140 à 160 m\n- fer 3 = 150 à 180 m\nmais il reste possible de taper à 200 m avec un fer 3 !!
1014853
That is a lot of loft here is a chart from Cobra.  1/r is 1 iron and so on.  Woods have a center of gravity that helps get the ball in the air.  The irons do not have that and need more loft.  \n\n\nKing Cobra Baffler Men's & Seniors' \n1/R 16.0° 41.5''/41.0'' 58.0° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n2/R 18.0° 41.0''/40.5'' 58.5° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n3/R 20.0° 40.5''/40.0'' 59.0° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n4/R 23.0° 40.0''/39.5'' 59.5° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n5/R 26.0° 39.5''/39.0'' 60.0° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n6/R 29.0° 39.0''/38.5'' 60.5° D2/D2 65g/98g Lite*,R,S RH/LH \n  King Cobra Baffler Women's \n3/R 23.0° 39..5'' 59.5° C4 50g Women's RH/LH \n4/R 26.0° 39.0'' 60.0° C4 50g Women's RH/LH \n5/R 29.0° 38.5'' 60.5° C4 50g Women's RH/LH \n6/R 32.0° 38.0'' 61.0° C4 50g Women's RH/LH \n7/R 35.0° 37.5'' 61.5° C4
91288
This is really easy, let's take a shot from 150 yards as an example. Normally I would hit a 9 iron from this distance. Now if I wanted to hit it lower I would take out a 7-iron and take my normal stance, but I would grip down on the handle of the club about 1.5 inches, then I would make my normal swing, the shot should come out lower and with less spin, so it will cut through the wind and run a bit when it hits the ground. \n\nHope this helps!
1000510
I think some people assumed you meant driving off from damp grass although you may have meant what is the best driver to use if the fairway ahead is damp?  If so, it depends how damp.  If the ground is heavy then the ball wont kick on too far when it lands so you would obviously want a driver that gives you a high degree of loft rather than relying on a decent bounce - probably one of the higher-lofted 10 and 11 degree drivers like most PGA Pros tend to carry (although a 3 wood has a loft between 15 and 18 degrees and a 5 wood has a loft between 20 and 22 degrees - both good options).  If the ground is just damp, it could be the diametric opposite - the ball might really zip when it first hits the fairway so I guess most drivers would do.  Calloways are nice drivers to play with.
427848
I will look for the distance first , if it is 150 yards from the hole I will use 7 or 8 iron . If the wind is blowing towards me I will use 7 iron , If the wind is blowing towards the green I will use 8 iron . Also, if you are facing a short Par 4 (about 280 yards) you can use driver to hit the ball straight to the hole, but becareful, if your driving technique is not good( always slice) then, I will suggest you to use 3 wood then use a sand wedge to chip the ball to the green and putt for birdie . By the way , if you want to test wheather the wind is blowing towards the hole or towards you , you just need to pick up some grass from the fairway or rough , and see how the grass moves in direction, if the grass goes towards you, it means that the wind is blowing towards you, if the grass goes towards the hole, it means that the wind is blowing to the hole, so try this method and give me 10 marks for the best answer .
541718
Be at less than an angle, more like 75%. Don't forget to use the PADS of your fingers.\n\nGood luck and happy playing!
1086546
Length issues are really about the lie angle--the angle of the shaft to the bottom of the clubhead.\n\nGolfers play a range of lengths--after all, a PW is much much shorter than a 3-iron.  How can both work?  The answer is that the angle between the clubhead and shaft for the PW is more acute than the 3-iron, because it's a shorter club.\n\nSo the real issue, believe it or not, is getting a length that produces the proper lie angle.  An alternative, though not as common, is to adjust the lie angle to adapt to the lengths you're using.\n\nThe reason why clubmakers sometimes adjust the lie angle rather than simply make a club longer or shorter to accommodate a golfer's specs is that lengthening or shortening a club also affects other variables, such as the effective flex of the club, and perhaps more importantly, the swingweight of the club.\n\nThere are ways around this--custom trimming to adjust flex to where it should be, and adjustments to the weights of components (the shaft and head), can be used to offset this issue.\n\nBut everything else being equal, a club that's 1" longer will feel significantly heavier than the reference club.  One inch is worth, in irons, about 6 Swingweight points; in a driver, closer to 5 swingweight points.\n\nThat's a pretty significant difference.  To offset that, a clubmaker might use lighter heads (if they're available in the model type the golfer wants), might drill some weight out of the inside of the head where nobody will see it (you can get 2-4 grams from inside the hosel), or use lighter-weight shafts.\n\nIn the end, realize that what you think of as the correct length for you is really a length that accommodates the lie angles of the clubs.  It is, ultimately, the lie angle you're fitting for.\n\nMike\n<the club doctor>