Bob Trailer v. Panniers for a 2500 mile offroad trip?
366820
I would use panniers.  The panniers should be evenly loaded front/rear and left/right.  A low rider front rack will help to increase stability by lowering the center of gravity.  This will also help to even out the load on the front and rear wheels.  At high speeds on a downhill, bikes will sometimes get a "shimmy" on the front if the back is loaded and the front is not.\n\nTrailers have some advantages (easier packing, quick attachment, low center of gravity).  On extended trips, the extra weight is usually not worth the tradeoffs.
365638
Take a look at commuter/fitness bikes. These are generally relatively inexpensive bikes which are a hybrid between mountain and road bikes. They're designed to be comfortable. I use an older Specialized Sport, and I ride to work most all summer. You may be able to get one used if you don't want to spend a lot of money.\n\nAlso, get a good set of lights (front and back) and reflector. Even if you don't intend to be riding after dark, you really don't want to be stuck without it. You want cars to be able to see you. You may also want to look at getting a rack and some pannier bags to tie your stuff to your bike instead of wearing a backpack. I have a nice padded bike bag for my laptop.
571213
I've flown my bike all over Europe, mostly in a dedicated hard bike box, and never once been charged excess baggage (only one airline, RyanAir, charged $25 as a 'bike' fee). I don't think they weigh these oversize items (if they did I'd have been seriously clobbered for the excess)!\n\nMaybe the rules are different in the States - but try ringing a few airlines or check out their websites before you leave behind your beloved pushbike. \n\nEurope is totally bike-oriented - there are fantastic bikepaths and scenic bike routes everywhere and in some countries (like Austria and Holland) the bike has precedence over everything! Take a look at the EuroVelo website to get an idea (see below). \n\nA bicycle is the way to see Europe - so if you can, bring it with you. \n\nBy the way - your bike shop will give you a bike box for free - it'll be a cardboard one that a new bike came in. Pack it out with firm polystyrene sheet and you'll have a pretty safe way to transport your bike. Best of all though - buy a dedicated, rollalong, hard bike box. It'll take all your clothes and stuff too. It'll also last all your cycling life, so it'll prove cheap in the long-term and you'll have seen the World on two wheels!
79408
if $$$ is issue here, check out the DOUGLAS bikes at coloradocyclist.com, for 1500, you can get a full ultegra douglas fusion with easton wheels and fsa extras.  the frame weights only 2.5 pounds.  compare that with any other brand...you cant....i have a 4200$ tcr comp, but this douglas is so well equipped, i thinkin about gettin it for my commuter/rainday bike......1500$ and >17 lbs..not bad.
482063
Use the bike that fits.  I would be inclined to set the pre-load on the suspension fork pretty high to minimize bounce while standing and climbing.  The only other disadvantage is the weight, but fit is definitely more important than weight.
133
I'd agree with TaraN's answer. Take the time to really find what you want. Take a lot of extended test rides. You might find that aluminum might be too harsh for you, in which case you might find that steel or carbon might be more comfortable. That's just one example. Lots of test rides will give you a feel for how the various bikes at a given price point can handle very differently. Without getting into too much tech-speak, you might find that one bike handles a bit more twitchy than another. Think of the difference as driving a Mini Cooper versus a basic sedan. Some bikes are set up more for racing, where you'll get a quicker handling bike, whereas others will handle a bit more laid back.\n\nParts wise, you'll find the same component offerings on many of the manufacturers out there for a given price point, as TaraN pointed out. You'll most likely be getting a bike with Shimano componenets, with perhaps a mix of some of the manufacturer's own branded components (for example, Trek outfits their bikes with a lot of Bontrager componentry).\n\nFocus on the overall ride of the bike. For a $1000, you can get a lot of bike.\n\nWade at The Spokesman in downtown Santa Cruz is a GREAT guy - very helpful, and yes, very patient. He's very knowledgeable and will set you up right.\n\nAlso in that same category, I'd highly recommend seeing Vance Sprock over at Cupertino Bike Shop. He's just like Wade - he'll set you up right.\n\nGood luck!
722444
Ok, suspension I can understand at this price but to be totally honest with you if you go for a complete bike at $600 with discs everything else component (and possibly frame) wise is going to be seriously downgraded to get them on there.\n\nMost 'good' (read reliable, reasonable weight and powerfull) brakes and hubs would set you back in the region of $300 - $400 anyway, take that off your budget for the bike and you start to see what you're getting. Yes, they look good and it makes the bike look more expensive but a decent set of V style brakes will be so much more powerful & useful in the long run.\n\nGetting down to it Trek make some excellent bikes for under $600. The frames are going to last and last, the kit on it will be good quality and reliable, the weight will be reasonable and it'll ride really well.\n\nFor approx. $450 you can get the Trek 4300 with (reasonable) discs, ok forks and a good mix of components OR you can spend $10 more and get the 4500 without discs but a much better fork. \n\nYou can't go wrong with a Specialized Hardrock or Rockhopper and they do a number of models based around those frames within your budget.\n\nKona also do some excellent models at around the $600 mark but they are going to ride differently to the Trek, it's going to come down to where you are & what kind of riding there is in your area as to which one works well.\n\nWhatever you decide on you must PLEASE leave enough to buy yourself a good helmet, at least 1 pair of cycling shorts and some gloves. Trust me.
248928
What type of travel trailer are you looking for? I just bought a Jayco pop-up model 1206 and it's awesome. I have a slide out dinette, one king size bed, one queen size bed, shower;indoor and outdoor, bathroom, fridge, furnace. Top of the line for ammenities and it weighs 2500lbs dry and 3100lbs loaded with gear. We pull it with a Ford Explorer V6. We paid $8100 and Jayco listed it for almost twelve thousand. Check out Jayco.com. They also have regular non pop-up travel trailers. My sister has one and they pull it with a four cylinder Isuzu Rodeo. Honestly if I were you I'd stay with a well known trailer manufacturer if you are buying new. There's less problem if you need repairs under warranty. I hope this helps you out. \nHappy Camping!!!
366124
What bike you buy depends on what kind of riding you intend to do.\nFull suspension gives you the ability to go over rough, technical terrain faster and also corner better, but they normally weigh more and are more expensive than hardtails.\nWould recommend 26" wheels/tyres because they are the more standard size and will make replacement easier (tubes/tyres etc...).\nPersonally I am a hardtail fan, you have more 'feel', better for jumps, more versatile and less parts to break.
673802
It depends what you mean by 'long rides'. If you're going to do 100 miles a day for several days in a row, you need a touring bike. This is because its comfortable over long periods, its strongly built to take a lot of use and its specially designed to take panniers and a heavy load.\n\nIf you're going to ride fast over anything up to 100+ miles, but you're doing one day outings (or you're racing, or riding mainly for fitness) then get a road bike - light, fast, responsive (a thoroughbred amongst bikes). Like a thoroughbred horse though, these bikes need tender loving care to stay on top form, they're a bit skittish and they're fragile. They're also not the most comfortable ride, because they're built for speed, not comfort.\n\nIf you're doing 50+ miles on mixed terrain and speed is less important than durability and stability, then get an ATB of some kind. Probably a hardtail with good front suspension.\n\nIf you're mainly pottering about (even over quite long distances) and most of your riding is in the city, on road and light trails, then consider another hybrid. These are tough, flexible and easy to live with. There are some interesting gearhub ones appearing - they really make life easy.\n\nMy first try-outs in each category:\n\nTouring - Cannondale, Specialised\n\nRoad - Bianchi, Trek, Cannondale\n\nATB - Klein, Specialised, Trek.\n\nHybrid - Cannondale (especially the Vintage), Specialised
507204
it will depend upon how long your legs are compared with your torso, though if you're likely to ride off road often I'd say roughly a 19". maybe an inch or so bigger if you're staying on the tarmac most of the time. smaller bikes are slightly more manoeverable, and are hence better suited to riding off-road.\n\ntry before you buy though.
527885
You'll need a few supplies.\n\nDependable racks, front and back.\n\nPanniers, and if they're waterproof, put small holes in the bottom so that they let the water out.  \n\nKevlar touring tires--yes, with tread.  Try "Ruffy Tuffy" or Panaracer Pasela folding Tourguard.  28mm size recommended (actual is 26).  Plus one extra tire for a spare.     \n\nExtra inner tubes. (performance does well).\nA patch kit.  \n\nExtra brake pads.  Make it Kool Stop.\nIn fact, replace the existing brake pads with Kool Stop.   \n\nEvery size allen wrench that fits your bike.\nA screwdriver.\nPliers.\nAn alloy 6" adjustable wrench or a 15/13 cone wrench.\nA chain tool and some chain patch links.\nA few extra screws, such as the sort that holds your cables to your brakes and your cables to your derailers.\n\nSinger Sewing Machine Oil. . .because wax lube can't cut it for long distance.  The small plastic tube from the grocery store will last the entire trip.  It is not necessary to carry the metal can--just the small tube (looks like miniature toothpaste tube).  This fits into your under-seat tool pouch.  \n\nRags.  \n\nA bi-directional frame pump.\n\nA front fender. \n\nA very large bike that comes with tall handlebars. . .or the Delta Stem Riser plus an 80mm regular stem.  \n\nA Brooks B67S saddle or an Avenir comfort or a Pearson Magestic touring saddle or some nice wide thing without gel.  It is best to put pressure onto your sit bones than onto your soft tissues, and a wider saddle is vital for this purpose.  Pack some Proofide and a disposable shower cap if you use a leather touring saddle.  \nThe leather saddles alone can keep you from getting a rash because they keep you cool. . .well, they keep you cool if you apply only Proofide and nothing else.  Do take the leather saddles on several break in rides before starting out on your journey. Should you not weigh enough to break one in, see www.harriscyclery.com for an alternative method that is for emergency use only.  \n\nWhopping large pedals.  I mean huge!  Never mind the weight.  Get the very biggest and widest.  This can give you some variety on leg positioning and let you make that extra 90 mile push.  \n\nExtra water bottle attachment.\n\nA dynohub front wheel and the front and back lights. Be sure to get the "brushless" variety that does not drag.  \n\nA compass.  And, if you use that dandy little alloy compass black bell combination, be aware that each letter always points its direction--opposite of aircraft/automotive compasses.  At least it bolts on, is lightweight, and is always accessable.  \n\nA cheap rain parka.\n\nDo not go cross country cycling on an aluminum bike that is outfitted with a whopping long extension (factory standard) stem.  Even with the extraordinary protection offered by the Ruffy Tuffy/Panaracer tires, the aluminum bike's head tube will crack.  Replace the junk factory stem with an 80mm or 90mm extension model.  This will also take some force off of your wrists.  \n\nIf you're not riding a gearhub, such as the Rohloff, Sram I-Motion 9, Sprinter 7, or Nexus Premium 8, then you need to report to your bike shop for a demonstration on how to perform a rear derailer adjustment.  It goes something like: Adjust cable length until the center gears index-shift properly and then adjust the H and L screws to cause the first and last gears to index properly.  On that note, the 9 and 10 speed rear derailer shifting uses an extremely fragile chain; however, refitting to an 8 speed costs only a set of 8 speed shifters plus a rear cassette.  For gearhubs, use an inexpensive 7 speed chain (7.3mm), and for derailers (of 7 or 8 speeds rear), use a "stretch proof" 8 speed chain.  Do make sure that your bike is extraordinarily low geared.  Gearhubs can be outfitted with a larger sprocket for about $4 (not necessary for I9 or Rohloff).  Road bikes can be outfitted with a Deore rear derailer and a "mega range" (hill clim
991406
ok, no one has really addressed your needs here, just thiers.  long distance riding, not RACING, requiers a bike with a few things road bikes lack.  when you hear "road bike" read it as "racing bike", because thats what they are designed for.  road bikes have \nstiff frames for acceleration, light weight for the same reason, flimsy wheels, same reason, and aerodynamic riding positions, same reason.  they also have narrow saddles, and a gear range that is too high, or hard, for normal guy long distance riding.\ntouring bikes on the other hand, have a much wider range of usable gears, including a series of extra low gears for steep extended hills, higher handlebars for less back and neck and hand and wrist strain, wider saddles for better sit bone support, \nmore compliant frames for a nicer ride, more powerful brakes for stopping under load, and more durable wheels, not to mention fatter tires, which makes the ride more comfortable.  road bikes cant take fat tires or fenders, rendering them useless in the rain, gravel, dirt, ect.  fat tires protect the rims from pot holes, and general road debris.  steel is generally accepted as the ideal touring bike frame material.  people say steel is heavy, but well made steel bikes are within a quarter pound of an aluminum bike, and will survive wrecks much better.  good steel bikes last a lifetime.  aluminum lasts a decade.  long story short, a good touring bike will be a lifetime investment, wearas a road racing bike is a fragil object at best, suited for fast paced riding over smooth roads in ideal weather.  \na decent touring bike can be had for 1300, custom complete, made to measure.  if a shop tries to talk you into a road racing bike, its cause thats all they know, and all they have to sell.  \ntouring bikes arnt money makers, they last too long, and cost too much to build.  800 dollars buys you nothing, not even a bad cheap road bike.  think of it as an investment.  road bikes, if your lucky, last 10 years.  thats if you never crash... they will never carry loads well, never handle predictably under load, and are prone to mechanical failure..
76347
North Face, undoubtedly.\n\nSlumberjack is very low quality gear, their zippers for one, SUCK, they come off the track and split very easily, don't always really break as in can't repair it but they get screwed up easily for some reason.\n\nIf you are interested in anything for extreme needs (temp rating, lightweight, waterproof, durability, compressible) for backpacking in less than friendly territory, you will have to pay for multiple features...because usually, unless you utilize the technology of the high end fabrics and fillers, meeting one need is at the expense of another. For example, you can get a very warm sleeping bag for little money but it will be heavy and very bulky. Also, for a little money, you can get a lightweight compressible bag but it will be less durable. If any one of these doesn't matter as much, such as camping in nice weather, or from your car, you can get the cheap stuff and get your needs met...but even then, you are going to get what you pay for in terms of durability. \n\nFor something like a fleece bag liner, you can buy the cheapie 10 dollar one at Walmart and afford to replace it if it craps out, but I have one and it is fairly durable.
582406
I would agree with the bear on this, Full suspension is great for off roading BUT if your only thinking of spending 300 then look for something with front suspension only,\n \nOR look at buying a bike with no suspension, and a set of front forks separately, if you have just got into trail and off road riding then even the most basic rockshox/marzocci/RST forks will suit.\n\nThe reason for this is for 300 you will get a pretty decent rigid bike with quite high spec components and if you speak to the bike shop you are planning to buy the bike from about fitting front forks then they may do you a deal!\nthat way you can guarantee that you will get the right size forks for the bike you choose\n\nThen as you get into the sport you can upgrade your front forks to suit!!
302136
I have a Kelty 5400. I love it, it is small enough that it it works for short trips, but I can really pack it out for a week or two, I pack light. My husband can use it as well, because it is so adjustable. He thinks the color is a bit girly, but I like it. It is a royal blue and Yellow. \nI guess it all depends on what kind of trips you take as to what you need. I like the fact that mine has side compartments perfect for fuel and/ water bottles, removable top to double as a day pack, small zip out compartment perfect to put in food or other heavy stuff... heavy goes low, and a separator inside that you can remove between the top and bottom halves. I personally like an internal frame, and in my experience   lots.... internal or external is more of a preference thing not a season issue. Internal tend to be taller where the weight distribution is wider on an external. My biggest issues are size and weight, oh and PRICE, but I guess that is universal. There are a lot of chick packs out there too, I would suggest a big bag of rice ( 50 lbs ) and a few hours to kill trying on packs. Have fun.
622809
Definitely a backpack. \n\nThis is because a good backpack will be correctly positioned at all times and won't move about irritatingly. This is important for both your physical well being and for road safety.\n\nSecondly, the weight is more evenly distributed to all the right places (as long as its a good bag) so you won't get neck or shoulder ache. \n\nYou can carry more, including all the little essential things like tools, puncture kit, lock etc in the many pockets and cubbies of the backpack.\n\nYou can opt to have a fluid bladder in the backpack - such as a Camelbak (although personally I don't go for this - I prefer to carry the heavy weight of water low down on my bike frame rather than high on my back).\n\nSweat retention is not an issue with a good backpack - good ones now come with a webbing stretcher made of a wicking material. This keeps an air space between you and the bag to allow continuous ventilation and provides further suspension to soften the impacts of the bag on bumpy tracks etc.\n\nThere are some great backpacks around. I use Jack Wolfskin - ergonomically excellent, indestructible, good ideas and clever bits built in, fully waterproof and great looking (as you'd expect of a German designer and manufacturer). I'm usually unaware that I'm wearing it even though its loaded with stuff!  Look also at Karrimor, Camelbak, Vaude, Ortlieb etc.