how to clean a rifle step by step?
358819
A trickey thing that needs expert help to learn.\n\nGo to this site for a blow-by-blow description from a pro:\nhttp://sports.espn.go.com/outdoors/hunting/news/story?page=h_fea_rifle_cleaning_NAHC_040812
910333
I've owned a Remington 870 and Winchestor pump, which for all practical purposes, I'll assume would be nearly the same design as a Mossberg. My cleaning routine is to swipe the barrel out with a brush and lubricate after each use. After about five uses (about 300-500 rounds), I'll field strip the gun, removing the barrel from the gun and clean out the chamber as well, getting just about every speck of powder residue. Once or twice a year I'll remove the cap from the feed tube as well and wipe it down, as well as the spring, choke, and guide for the slide.\n\nBasically, if you want any firearm to last, use common sense in when to clean. If you're going to use it for hunting, and only fire about 5 rounds a day for a week, there's no point to cleaning it every single day, once a week will suffice. If you're going to shoot skeet like I use mine for, you'll have to clean it alot more often. Any time you're going to put a gun away for storage (longer than a month), you should always make sure the gun is clean, shiney, and oiled. \n\nAs far is taking the gun near lakes and such, I've taken mine out shooting on foggy days, rainy days, and other poor conditions. So long as you keep a coating of oil on it, it should be fine. If you're going to be out for a week or so on a hunting trip or camping, take along some oil wipes (they're like wet-naps for your gun, oil soaked napkins in individual packets).
1155313
Use paint thinner then scrub with soap & water to remove the paint thinner.
408136
The cleaning methods in ascending order of harshness are:\n\n·         Plain water\n\n·         Mild soap / detergent\n\n·         Solvents such as kerosene, turpentine or white spirit\n\n·         Non-etching chemical cleaner\n\n·         Wax-based polish\n\n·         Abrasive wax\n\n·         Abrasive cleaner\n\nAfter cleaning the aluminium should be washed thoroughly and dried to prevent streaking. Special care should be taken to remove any traces of cleaner from edges and joins. Always follow manufacturers recommendations when using proprietary cleaning products.\n\nAbrasive cleaners can alter the appearance of polished aluminium or aluminium with a ‘grain’ finish. If the aluminium has a grain, always clean with the grain.
924960
disasemble the gun and fix it
672621
Try white vinegar...it cleans just bout anything failing that you can buy mega cheap silver cleaner from any shop.
418667
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/autopia/inf-engine.html\n\nApplying Degreaser\nAfter warming the engine and protecting sensitive areas, you're ready to apply your engine degreaser.  Although they are quick and easy, I warn people against the use of harsh petroleum-based cleaners in the engine compartment.  They quickly cut through grease and grime, but they also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what they do to our environment!).  As an alternative, use a citrus- or water-based cleaner.  My  favorites are 303 Aerospace Industrial Cleaner and Autoglym Engine & Machine Cleaner.\n\n\n \nHolly is using a degreaser on the top side of her engine.  Good degreasers are strong enough to cut through the heavy grease and dirt, but some scrubbing is necessary to remove the remaining dirt film.\n \n\nWhen applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the lower areas and work your way up.  This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas.  One important thing to remember: the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted surfaces of your car.  If you get degreaser overspray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing these areas.\n\nWhen you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grille.  I like to spray these areas with water first.\n\nDepending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for 3 to 5 minutes.  Do not allow the degreaser to dry on your engine.  For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use a brush on the engine and other surfaces.  For heavy soil, you can use a long-handled brush (parts brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the degreaser.\n\n\n \nUse a soft parts cleaning brush get into cracks and around parts.  If your engine compartment has a heavy accumulation of dirt, you may need to spray with cleaner, brush, and rinse several times.\n \n\n \nAn old toothbrush works great in tight areas that other brushes can't reach. \n \n\nHosing Off\nWhen you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and surrounding surfaces with plenty of water.  If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors.  Allow your engine to air dry for several minutes before using a towel to wipe down all accessible parts.  Remove the plastic bags.  The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process; however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots.  When dry, start your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes.\n\n\n \nRinse with a stiff stream of water to remove as much of the grease and grime as possible.  Be sure to avoid electrical connections and other sensitive areas.  After rinsing, start the engine immediately.  Allow it to run for about 5 minutes to help dry things out.\n \n\n \nHere's a handy tip for you.  After your final rinse use your vacuum (if it can blow forced air) or an air compressor to blow water off the engine for a spot-free finish.  This Vac B' Blow vacuum makes quick work of the job.
459901
Here are step by step instruction:\nhttp://waltonfeed.com/old/soap/soapbach.html
696834
Step one: clean the bases first with a solvent made for that. Look for an item called "base cleaner" at a ski shop. People have been known to use things like kerosene to clean the bases. Personally, I wouldn't recommend that route. All you have to do is dab some cleaning solvent onto a paper towel, and scrub down the ski. Easy enough.\n\nStep two: apply wax. Different ways and beliefs here. The most important thing is to use the right temp wax. It does make a difference. When wax shopping, make sure to buy a little of all temp variations. Usually they are denoted by color: blue for cold, purple or red for in-between, and yellow for warmer...but check that out, it varies depending on the manufacturer. You may also end up using a little bit of two colors as well. To apply the wax, I just use an old iron I don't want for clothes anymore. Hold the wax to it, let the iron melt the wax, and hold the whole thing over the ski and go up and down, spreading wax droplets along the base of the ski. They sell specialized wax irons. I have never felt persuaded that they are necessary. Tip, make sure to put paper or towels underneath the ski, since you will be getting wax droplets on the floor. Don't wear nice clothes or shoes either! And also, don't burn your hand on the iron!\n\nStep 3: iron the wax in. Run the iron up and down the bases, melting the wax. DO NOT hold the iron in one place. Just like clothes, you can burn your ski bases. What this does is force the wax molecules into the tiny pores in the petex of the ski bases.\n\nFrom this point, people will go to war over the best procedures:\n\nStep 4: deal with the melted, and dried wax. What I do is wait for it to cool, and then scrape it off with a ski scraper. You will need to buy one of those too. Other people scrape a little, then "cork" the base, rubbing vigorously with a cork buffing block to fine tune the wax job. I don't know...I just scrape as much as I can off, and go. Seems to work ok. If you are a racer, which I suspect that you aren't, then you would need to worry. Otherwise, just get the excess wax off and you are good to go!
858862
Please, dear God don't tell me you are using WD-40 to clean your rifle, please!  If you are, STOP!!!  WD-40 dries into an epoxy-like film, and it builds up over time...and, if is sets long enough, will lock up the firearm...as in, with a revolver, you cannot turn the cylinder, open the cylinder, pull the trigger, anything.  I have personally witnessed this.  \nYeah, more likely than not it is leftover from what you are using to clean your gun.  Make sure you get all the gunk out of the chamber before you start firing again.  \nAlso, how often do you clean your rifle?  You should, at the least, clean the bore and the chamber after every shooting session.
752499
Wolf sells surplus 223 rds but I would recommend against them. I used them in my bushmaster and it was freaking hard to clean. Also, the gun started jamming after about 40 rounds. They have a lacquer coating on them that gets hot and gooey in the barrel.
410333
Take a soft, slightly damp cloth and literally polish the bar.  Hope that helps!
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There are commercial kits available, but a can of compressed air, a lint-free cloth or wipes, mild dishwashing liquid, and a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush are all you really need for a basic cleaning. \nAfter turning off your computer and unplugging your keyboard, gently shake the keyboard upside down over some newspaper to dislodge loose crumbs and particles. \nUse the can of compressed air to blow a stream of air between the keys. \nDampen a lint-free cloth with a diluted solution of dishwashing liquid and water to wipe down the keys. \nUse the vacuum cleaner brush attachment to suck away any remaining dirt or debris. <br />\nIf you have a membrane-type keyboard (it doesn't have a spring under each key) and the keys are truly grungy, you can remove the keys with a small screwdriver and use cotton swabs and 90% isopropyl alcohol to get it sparkling clean. If you are still feeling industrious, next you can tackle cleaning your mouse. \nOf course, if cleaning your keyboard seems a truly undesirable task, you can always buy a new one for around $20.
912619
Try using a metal brush.
337022
Baking soda and peroxide. Make a paste out of it and brush once a week.
1018888
Don't use WD-40...\n\nBuy Remington Oil or another light oil meant for guns -- you can get it in the Sporting section at Wal-Mart -- comes in a green/yellow spray can or bottle.\n\nI don't know if you can use a cleaning rod on air rifles, but if you can, get on and put a patch on the patch puller on the rod with oil on it and swab the barrel out.. Put a few drops (or a spray) on the joints of the moving parts too.
345059
use a cotton bud and when not in use push it through all the buttons and down the sides, a cheap and easy way to get rid of dust etc.