what pro's uses taylor made clubs?
147864
Sergio Garcia, Retief Goosen, Mike Weir, Kenny Perry, Fred Funk, Darren Clarke, Sean O'Hair, Todd Hamilton, J.L. Lewis, Charlie Wi, Ian Leggatt, J.P. Hayes, David Hearn, Tripp Isenhour, Tim Herron, Richard Johnson, Steve Jones, Brent Geiberger, Cameron Beckman, Briny Baird, Scott Verplank, Joey Sindelar, Loren Roberts, Corey Pavin, Justin Rose, Greg Owen, Tom Lehman, Joe Ogilvie, Peter Lonard
1114955
some of the woods are good i know people who think there the best..boom boom used to use them.  to be honest i would prefer to play something like snake eyes as opposed to getting raped by a big company for lots of money. The shaft is a huge factor as well as the head. I was once told(how true it is i don't know but it sounds about right) that with the big companys 70% of cost goes into research but if youy sell it 70%is what shaft you have in it\nCheck out TOM WISHON"S clubs. he used to design for golfsmith who designs snakeeyes. I think it is wishongolf.com. some of his stuff is good\n\nHope i helped
1157756
I carry 16 clubs in my bag on normal play. Driver, 3,4 (sometimes 5) woods, 2-9 pitching 52,56, 60 wedges and putter. I have difficulties taking two clubs off in competition as it is allowed only 14 clubs, but usually I sacrifice 4 wood and 60 degree. Sometimes depending on the course I play, I take also 1 iron in the bag, too but then I need to take out additional club which usually is 52 degree wedge. Hate who made the 14 club rules, in the beginning you allowed 18 clubs.\n\nDriver is when you want to hit very far. Sometimes, 3 wood is needed for the tee shot if the fairway is very narrow, and if it is really tiny, nobody would care if you tee off with iron. 3 wood is used also for hitting long approach from the fairway, and sometimes Tiger Woods use it for chipping shots, or putting from off the green. The rest of the irons are used for various distance depending from each person to person. Try yours in the driving range and you'll know your distance for each iron.\n\nIn the beginning, if you don't know it, use 5, 7 iron, pitching and putter. 5 for the longest distance, 7 for medium distance or about 130 yards, pitching for less than that and putter for the green. Wait another 6 months, I'll you more.
258750
If I were you, I'd shop the used clubs in your local golf shop.  You can find clubs that are like new for half-price or less.  Also, keep an eye on the clearance racks.  There's a lot of good equipment there, too.
949362
Go to: http://www.golfjoy.com/golf_physics/specs.asp\n\nAlso go to: http://golf.about.com/od/faqs/f/clublengths.htm\n\nAnd: http://golf.about.com/od/faqs/a/golf_clubs_faq.htm\n\nAnd: http://www.usga.org/playing/rules/books/rules/appendix_II.html\n\nRaw Materials\nGolf clubs are manufactured from a wide variety of materials, including metals, plastics, ceramics, composites, wood, and others. Different materials are chosen for different parts of the club based on their mechanical properties, such as strength, elasticity, formability, impact resistance, friction, damping, density, and others.\n\nClub heads for drivers and other woods may be made from stainless steel, titanium, or graphite fiber-reinforced epoxy. Face inserts may be made from zirconia ceramic or a titanium metal matrix ceramic composite. Oversize metal woods are usually filled with synthetic polymer foam. Traditionalists can even buy woods that are made of real wood. Persimmon, laminated maple, and a host of exotic woods are used. Wood club heads are usually soaked in preserving oil or coated with a synthetic finish like polyurethane to protect them from moisture.\n\nClub heads for irons and wedges may be made from chrome-plated steel, stainless steel, titanium, tungsten, beryllium nickel, beryllium copper, or combinations of these metals. Heads for putters may be made of all of the same materials as irons, plus softer materials like aluminum or bronze, because the velocity of impact is much slower when putting.\n\nClub shafts may be made from chrome-plated steel, stainless steel, aluminum, carbon or graphite fiber-reinforced epoxy, boron fiber-reinforced epoxy, or titanium. Grips are usually made from molded synthetic rubber or wrapped leather.\n\nDesign\nThe rules of the United States Golf Association (USGA) have only a few brief paragraphs regarding the design of golf clubs. There are no restrictions on weight or materials, and only a few restrictions on dimensions. Shafts must be at least 18 in (457 mm) long. The distance from the heel to the toe of the head must be greater than the distance from the face to the back of the head. The cross-sectional dimension of the grip must not be greater than 1.75 in (45 mm) in any direction. Of all the rules, however, the most important one requires that the club ''shall not be substantially different from the traditional and customary form and make."\n\nIt is this last rule that sometimes gives club designers the fits. It means, for example, that club heads may not have features like aiming fins or holes to reduce aerodynamic drag. Shafts may not have flexible joints, and so forth. In short, anything that is not "traditional and customary" is not allowed. All new club designs must be submitted to the USGA for review and approval before they may be used in tournament play.\n\nWithin the USGA guidelines, many new features have been incorporated into golf clubs. Using computer-aided design programs and mathematical models of club and ball dynamics, designers have learned to utilize new materials, redistribute weight, and alter the general shape of the club in an attempt to help both professional golfers and weekend duffers improve their games.\n\nOne common feature of modern irons is perimeter weighting, which places most of the club head weight around the edges, leaving the center with less material. This added mass reduces the amount of club twist when the ball is struck towards the edge of the club, rather than in the center. The effect is to increase the size of the effective hitting area, or the "sweet spot" as golfers call it. The hollow oversize metal heads on some drivers have the same effect.\n\nAnother design feature of some modern clubs is the offset head, where the striking face is located to the rear of the centerline of the shaft. This places the golfer's hands slightly ahead of the ball at impact, which tends to square the club face and give better direction control.\n\nOth
765341
Hello Mrpeppy\n\nI have never used them myself so cant give you first hand info on them. I think an answer befor mine from ksingh gives you some quality info.\n\nHowever I have seen them and they are a classy set of clubs, sort of resemble a cross between Calloway and Hogan Apex.\n\nI particularly like the hybrids that come with them, thats a bonus. Hybrids instead of long irons are the way to go .\n\nIf you are able to get them under 300 dollars it would be a good deal.\nGood luck and happy golfing.\n\nLeon
37382
I made my decision by going to Golfsmith and hit an assortment of clubs. I found the Callaway Fusion irons to be most consistent for me and the easiest to hit.  The other cool thing is Golfsmith has a 100 day satisfaction policy which lets you have piece of mind regarding the club choice.
314319
This depends on how well you hit, as well as what lies ahead...\n\nFor instance, I use a 7 iron to hit 150 as well. Not every time, butr most of the time. However, if Im hitting up hill, I would use a 6 or 5 iron, depending upon the difference in height. Similar, in shooting downhill, I would use an 8 or 9 iron. \n\nWhen chipping, it is also important to pay attn to the lie - if youre chipping uphill, dont use a 60* wedge! It will be a 80* wedge! Instead, use your 8 iron and hit it softly - takes the extra loft off the hillside lie....\nPretty much, there should be roughly ten yards difference between clubs. I go 100 with a PW, 110 with a 9, 130 with an 8, 150 with a 7, 160 with a 6, 160 - 170 with a 5, etc. As my iron length increases, my distance drops, as I am not great with long irons... But I have this new Nike CPR rescue club - it is AWESOME! Replaces my 3 & 4 iron, and goes around 180 almost every time! 3 wood, around 200, driver around 220 - if I can keep it from slicing...\n\nFeel free to hit me up about golf anytime - IM ADDICTED!
855646
Most LPGA Pros use mens clubs but they are fitted , because most mens clubs are to long and women prefer a shaft that is not that firm mostly regular stiffness and alot of them play with graphite shafts , the idea of womens clubs is changing in the market place the term womens clubs will probably disappear in a few years because the equipment is pretty much the same , the only difference when you buy a womens set is that it is shorter than a standard , thats it .
392662
Dynamic Gold Regular shafts are probably on more clubs than all other steel shafts put together.  If you swing harder than average (as determined by clubhead speed, not by effort), you may benefit from the stiff shafts, which flex less and more quickly than R shafts.  Or, if you use shafts that are more than 1" longer than standard, you may need a stiffer shaft.  Longer shafts flex more than shorter ones.  Go to a good golf store and have your head speed measured with a shaft comparable to the one you contemplate using.  That is the most reliable indicator of which flex you need.\n\nGraphite shafts are generally lighter than steel, but do not necessarily flex more.  They come in a range of stiffnesses, just like steel shafts.  The reduced weight often permits more clubhead speed or longer shafts with no weight increase, and so require a stiffer shaft than a comparable steel shaft.
905113
i've played for 10 years and never found a set of irons better than my Mizuno TP11 blades.  give them a try.
214483
there are several clubs, being woods or irons... and the trusty putter... in any event, a wood and iron have numbers to them.  1, 2, 3, ... these numbers indicate the loft you will achieve with the proper shot, in other words. 1 being the wammer jammer, will aid you in getting the greatest distance on the ball, where as a 3 wood will be something you would use when you are wanting less distance than the 1... Irons... the higher the number 1 thru  nine...( it won't let me put in 9... must be tipper gore at work again!) works in the same effect.... if you are closer to the hole, you will want to use perhaps an 8 or 9 iron, which will have quite a bit of loft on the shot... or you may want to use a pitching wedge, which will have more loft than the aforementioned clubs... then theres the sand wedge... have I gottan the point accross?
1182351
Well, as for the previous two answers I will say that Ping is good, but nowhere near expensive as Callaway products.  As for the Taylor Made r7, well, I have one and it is great, but the changeable weights wont help if you have a horrible swing. \n\nRight now, the best drivers on the market in terms of accuracy I would have to say the Nike SQ and the Cleveland Hi-Bore are on top.  Both of those drivers are probably the most accurate clubs on the market.
786392
Which Type of Club Shaft Best Suits Your Game?\nShould you go with steel shafts or graphite shafts? What are the differences between the two? Is one type of shaft better for you than another?\n\nThese are questions that many newcomers to golf - and even many golfers who have played for years - have in mind when they go shopping for a new set of clubs.\n\nIn the "old days," the general feeling was that recreational golfers, mid- and high-handicappers, should use graphite, while the better players, low-handicappers, would stick with steel. That's not necessarily true anymore, however. Even PGA Tour golfers can be seen using graphite shafts. In 2004, Tiger Woods switched from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft in his driver (most pros made that switch even earlier).\n\nAs with every type of golf equipment, the key is to try out both kinds and determine which type best fits your swing. \n\nBut there are differences between steel and graphite that could help you choose one over the other.\nSome Keypoints\n• Steel shafts are less expensive than graphite, so the same set of clubs will cost less with steel shafts than with graphite shafts.\n\n• Steel shafts were once considered much more durable than graphite. That's not so much the case anymore. Quality graphite shafts will last as long as you do so long as they are not chipped, cracked, or the laminate-seal is not peeling. Steel shafts will last forever so long as they are not bent, rusted or pitted.\n\n• Graphite shafts transmit fewer vibrations up the shaft to the golfer's hands than do steel shafts. This might be good or bad, depending on your skill and your desire. You might want that added feedback that steel shafts offer - or you might be tired of your hands stinging so much on mis-hit shots.\n\nThe Most Important Point\nThe biggest and by far most important difference between steel and graphite shafts is this: graphite shafts are lighter than steel shafts. So clubs that have graphite shafts will be lighter than otherwise identical clubs that have steel shafts.\n\nAccording to clubmaking and equipment guru Tom Wishon, the difference in weight between graphite shafts and steel shafts will translate, for most golfers, into an additional 2-4 mph of swing speed with graphite. And that could mean an extra 6-12 yards of distance with a graphite shaft, compared to a steel shaft.\n\nThat's why, in the everpresent quest for more yards, more and more golfers prefer graphite shafts.\n\nWhat It All Means\nYou probably want more yards, too. So it's obvious: You should choose graphite shafts, right? Probably, but not necessarily.\n\nAs we said, the majority of golfers these days are going to graphite, at least in their woods, but steel shafts maintain a very strong presence in golf, especially among low-handicappers and scratch players.\n\nIn many cases, those are golfers who don't need the extra boost of swing speed that graphite shafts can provide. Players who prefer steel shafts often make that choice because their heavier weight provides the golfer with a feeling of more control over the clubhead during the swing. And these are players who can analyze and benefit from the added feedback (more vibrations traveling up the shaft) that steel provides.\n\nWe'll quote Tom Wishon: "If gaining more distance is a primary goal for the golfer, they should definitely be fit with the proper graphite shaft design in their woods and irons to match their swing. On the other hand, if distance is not the main focus for the golfer because they already have a high swing speed, if they like the feel of steel and their swing tempo matches a little better to the higher total weight steel shafts bring to the clubs, then steel is the better option."\n\nAnd we'll add that anyone who is not physically strong, or has physical problems in their hands, forearms or shoulders that are exacerbated by the bad vibes of a mis-hit shot, should go with graphite.\n\n\n
1054896
Most forgiving irons are:\n\nPing G2\nPing G5\nMizuno MX-17\nMizuno MX-900\nCallaway Big Bertha\nCleveland CG4\n\nIf you specifically want a forged club, the Mizuno MX-23 is the most forgiving.\n\nWhile cloned clubs are fine for beginners, I would always have something in the back of my mind, questioning if its the club or me.  Since golf is such a mind game, the last thing I need is to doubt the quality of clubs.  Confidence goes along way in this game, and name brand, reputation, and even appearance of the clubs play a role in boosting confidence.\n\nHope this is helpful!
920526
There is an ebay type web site called www.golfclubexchange.com.  New and used gear of every type.\n\nAs far as quality brands to look for, Mizuno MX series are a nice oversized cast cavity back with a decent offset to assist a high handicapper with keeping the ball in play.  Nicklaus golf has some less expensive sticks that hit well too.\n\nMostly you just need to get into the shops and swing everything that you can get your hands on.  you'll find one or two brands that feel better than all the others and those are what you need to buy.  So much of the game of golf is mental, so finding a set of clubs that feel good and look good at address will definately take strokes off of your score.  \n\nDo Not!!! skimp on your putter.  I have so many friends who will spent $400 on a new driver, but have a $30  putter in their bag.  Putting is the key to lowering your handicap.  Don't be afraid to spend some dough on a quality putter.\n\nGood luck,  and enjoy the game
820530
one way is the material they are made of.\nthe brand, if the company still makes them\ncall the manufacturer about your clubs.\n\n:> peace