How to apply base coat clear coat automotive paint?
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http://www.autozone.com/\nhttp://www.carcarecouncil.org/index.shtml\nhttp://autoparts.411web.com/\nhttp://www.info.com/\nhttp://www.howstuffworks.com/\n\n\nLook in to these, they should help.
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BLOW A BALOON AND WRAP IT WITH WITH ROPE AND WIRE ALL AROUND SMEAR THE SURFACE WITH WHITE GLUE MADE OF PULPED PAPER (NEWS PAPER)... WHEN DRIED LIGHT A CIGARETTE AND DRILL LITTLE HOLES WITH IT. CUT A LARGER HOLE FOR THE BULB RIGHT ON THE PLACE YOU BLOWW THE BALOON. YOU CAN PAINT YOUR WORK WITH DIFFERENT COLORS.\n\nI AM AN AMEEERICAN LOL
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I used White-Out pen. And if you don't want it to be scratch off or fade then I recommend you put one or two coat of clear nail polish just in case. \n\n\nOk so now you are asking about applying the White-Out right?\nWell when you apply it to paper then you would squeeze a good amount but you don't want to do that. First just turn off your computer and push down on that key and then apply the White-Out on but LIGHTLY write on the key after it completely dries then apply the clear nail polish  Try this: http://www.wite-out.com/pens/\nHope this helps.\n♥ Vy
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The best way to do this, unless you are experienced with refinishing, is to take the bike COMPLETELY apart... all the parts, drive out all the bearing cups, everything that isn't painted to begin with, then have the frame sandblasted (or blasted with walnut shell if it is aluminum) and take it to an auto body shop. Once the frame is blasted it MUST be primered almost immediately or it will start to rust in hours. Someone at the shop will likely paint it for you pretty cheap. \n\nIf you want to try it yourself with spray cans, do this:\nFirst, you shouldn't use ENAMEL unless you have it professionally applied and baked on. Spray cans are formulated to be used in a wide range of temperatures and humidities so they never dry "just right". Even if you got fancy with some tin foil and spotlights you would probably only end up with an even softer finish.\n\nHere is a quick (sort of) process to follow:\n\n1) After completely disassembling the bike have it sandblasted to remove ALL the finish.\n2) Spray it as soon as possible with grey sandable lacquer primer. Duplicolor paint is all lacquer, I think, and you can get it from your local autoparts store. Buy the BIG cans, not the small ones. Apply at least 3 coats, 1/2 hour apart. Don't worry about light runs for now.\n3) Wait at least 48 hours. Sand the primer using 220 grit aluminum oxide paper (white in color) until the surface is smooth. It shouldn't take much unless you have a lot of runs.\n4) Using a tack rag, lightly go over the entire frame (don't rub!) to remove the sanding dust.\n5) Apply several light coats (6 or 7 perhaps) of the color of your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Again, use LACQUER, the same brand that you used for primer. Apply coats 1/2 hour apart. Be sure you cover every part and do NOT get runs. If you get runs you are applying it too heavily.\n6) Apply the LACQUER clear cost, perhaps 6 coats.\n7) Let the frame alone until you can't smell the paint anymore when you get up close and take a big whiff. If you can smell it, it ain't dry! This will take 2 to 3 days at least.\n8) Using white paste polishing compound, follow the directions and polish out the whole frame.\n9) Do NOT wax or wash for at least 10 days.\n\nIf you rush this you will end up with a sloppy mess and you'll kick yourself for ever trying. However, if you take your time and do it right it'll be a very cool feeling.
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Use a good (!very! expensive) paint and brush, gentle strokes, temperature and humidity should be just right, read the paint label for details.
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go to yahoo and put in how to paint a car and the 3rd one should be realbig.com every thing is on there about how to paint a car
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You might try different solvents. Such as carb cleaner or lacquer thinner. I'd try on a part you won't see when the telescope is fully assembled. If all else fails use a wet sand paper and re paint. The factory finish is usually a baked on type that lends itself well to cleaners. You might also think of using a green scrubby. Although this might dull the finish. You might then wish to recaot with a gloss or satin clear designed for metal. Good luck in your endeavor.
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Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
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anti rust paint called red oxide primer , don't forget this
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if xylene is an oil-based paint (i'm not sure...)\nthen you should massage the skin with baby oil, butter, or olive oil.  wipe dry and wash with soap and water.
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Aluminium is hard to make paint stick to. First it has to be clean. Then you have to use a primer that is made to adhere to aluminium not all primers will. then apply the desired colour over the primer. Check with manufactures or aircraft paints and primers they are a good starting place. Be sure you follow the instructions on the paint cans exactly or you will be wasting your money.
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Hi!\n\nHigh gloss paint is the best.\n\nEither red with brass fittings\n\nOR\n\nNavy blue with silver coloured fittings.\n\nHope this helps!
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try using  flat black instead. it'll look bitching bad ass and be way easier. tremclad makes a decent one. but if you're set on a glossy finish, listen to the first guy.\n\n\ngood luck
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Go to Start Menu > Run... > "mspaint"\n\nAlso, in the Start Menu, Paint's located in: All Programs > Accessories > Paint
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You can try using\nAdobe Photoshop or\nCorel Paint shop Pro.\n\nFrames are available online for download (TGA Format)
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Honestly, it really depends on what you are looking for. \n\nIf you are looking for the best long term shine, I would recomend a non silicone sealant wax. This will last longer than almost any other wax, but doesn't have the extreme shine of some others. The type we use at our detailing company is called Sealtek ACR. It is great stuff, it takes a little more time to cure, but it leaves a great finish.\n\nIf you are looking for something that has an ulitmate shine, your best bet would be a carnuba wax. This stuff looks the best of any other kind of wax, but it also lasts the least amount of time. The major problem with this kind of wax is that it does not stand up to heat very well. In many cases, you can tell if a car has been waxed with carnuba because you will begin to see white spots on the hood after really hot days. These are not dangerous, it just means that the wax is literally melting off the car due to heat.\n\nFor a do-it-yourself wax job, I would definately recommend a wax/cleaner. These are generally a bit more expensive, and they are availiable with almost any type of wax. The benefit from this approach is that the cleaner/wax removes most small particles that build up on paint due to acid rain, smog, or just about anything else that can't simply be washed off. I have even used this stuff to remove acid etching on windows. It works well and it will last longer. Just look for a kinds that has the best mix of durability and shine that you are looking for.\n\nOh yeah, avoid MacGuires of any kind. While they carry a smaller pricetag, the company is notorious for poor quality control, having been known for weak mixtures, as well as extremely high levels of dissolved solids in their wax.
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Really this question should be in home and garden.  He should use an oil based paint.  water based will likely peal off.