How can castor oil be cleaned out of a stainless steel kettle safely?
157251
if it is a stainless steel kettle, use anything that does not scratch the metal, so dont use like a brillo pad or something.
266275
Oil it and put it in the oven on a low temp for a few hours. Never wash them in soap.
69838
Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
118435
pretreat with laundry detergent and a scrubber and Oxyclean,then wash it with oxyclean/regular wash!
1079987
No safe way to do it.  Distillation perhaps, but that's not safe as sulphate fumes are not that good for you.  \n\nGrab the stock bottle and make up a fresh solution.
373023
Ultrasonic cleaners might be the best solution.\n\nHere is an excerpt from the source listed below: \n\nAlthough a range of possible alternative products is available today, experience has shown that substitution of TRI is not easy and even not feasible for a number of specific cases, either for technical or economical reasons. For all cases, substitution of TRI needs a thorough evaluation of all process aspects. For this reason we intend to work with the authorities in order to prevent a blanket implementation of forced substitution, and allow sustainable and continued safe use of TRI. \n\nThe alternatives you will probably consider first are the chlorinated solvents perchloroethylene (PER) and methylene chloride (MC). They match closest the technical features of TRI, such as non-flammability, high solvency power, a wide range of material compatibility and excellent drying and recycling properties.\n\nBeside PER and MC, you have probably also heard about other alternatives such as aqueous (water-based) alkaline systems, flammable solvents (e.g. hydrocarbons or modified alcohol based formulations), supercritical CO2 or hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs), etc.\n\nIt is impossible to say definitively which technology is best. That depends on your specific application, on what you are cleaning, which materials you want to remove, the cleanliness required, the variability of the parts cleaned, the throughput to be achieved, the cycle times, etc. \n\nFor example, for the cleaning of parts between two water-based manufacturing steps (e.g. galvanising), aqueous systems may be better, since parts are put into water phase again later and no energy-intensive drying step to remove the water is required. \n\nIf you need to have very clean and dry surfaces (for coating or surface hardening, for example) and if you have a variety of different metals or blind holes, narrow distances and very fine orifices or a lot of residual oil to clean, hydrocarbons or aqueous systems may not clean and dry well enough. In these cases, chlorinated solvents will offer most often the best solution as they are compatible with most materials, have a high cleaning power, are easy to dry, don't leave residual films and are easy to recycle with high quality by distillation. In addition, chlorinated solvents are today best suited to be used in modern closed systems with minimal losses. Their ecological performance has very much increased and, when used in well-operated metal cleaning systems, they outperform aqueous cleaning as long as drying is required. This has been shown by a Life Cycle Analysis carried out by Ecobilan. \n\nPER comes closest to TRI in technical performance and is often the first choice candidate as an alternative to TRI. However, it shows clear inherent technical differences, which need to be taken into consideration. On one side, PER offers a lower volatility and therefore is advantageous to minimise emissions in closed equipment. On the other side, PER has a lower solvency power and is therefore normally used at a higher cleaning temperature to achieve similar performance. This may raise concerns regarding the compatibility with specific metal working fluids and temperature-sensitive parts. \n\nMethylene chloride (MC) shows excellent cleaning properties already at low temperatures, favouring the cleaning of temperature sensitive parts. However, its high volatility makes emission control more difficult and requires special equipment.\n\nHydrofluorocarbons (HFC) and hydrofluorocarbon ethers (HFCE) are very expensive and show very limited solvency power. A thorough evaluation of the global warming potential is also required to choose the adequate product.
779156
Sometimes they are better.  There is a formula for cleaning grubby little brass items (screws, hinges, hooks, Meccano gears etcetera): mix 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar with one and a half teaspoons of washing-up liquid and a little cold water, add half a pint of scalding water, add the metal items, stir for 60 to 90 seconds, drain and rinse.  This either leaves the items gleaming, or loosens their tarnish so much that a gentle scrub with cream cleanser leaves them gleaming.  Nothing commercial is anything like as good as this.
652125
Call a disposal waste company to take out, and properly dispose the used oil, they have pumps and equipment for that, then make sure all used oil is out of the system, (retract all cylinders and stuff like that) and I mean all by taking out at least 95 %, you never take out 100%.\n\nThen change or clean filters in system, if any, and pour new oil, make sure is the recommended by manufacturer.\n\nYou are done.
197770
Pour straight vinegar down the drain and let sit.  After a few hours rinse with water.  If that doesnt work then pour some baking soda in there and let sit overnight and rinse.  Those 2 should work.
836185
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis is from over 30 years experience... DON'T put any type of chemical on your rifle's metal... you do not know how the chemical will react with the finish or the metal. \n\nThe time proven method of removing light rust from gun metal is to use OOO steel wool with gun oil. Put a light coat of oil on the rusted metal part and lightly rub the steel wool over the affected oiled area. Be patient, do not apply a lot of pressure. In about 10-15 minutes the rust will be removed and if the metal is blued there might be a slight lightening of the blued finish. Generally, lightening of the finish would mean either you rubbed too hard or you did not have enough oil on the metal. You can use the steel wool and oil method successfully without affecting your gun's finish. \n\nGood luck.
1124005
Use a teabag (black tea) and run it under water as hot as you can stand it. Place the teabag on the boil, place a hot damp washcloth over it, then a dry fluffy towel. Leave it for 15 minutes, then re-wet the teabag.
108272
I work in upholstery and the best products to remove pet odor are: Folex (stain and odor remover), Gonzo (stain and odor remover), and Kids and Pets (stain and odor remover). All of the product are non toxic and completely safe. But the products listed above are best used with a water extaction unit, like a Green Machine (found at Wal-Mart for about $70). You just spray all of the chemicals on the affected areas (do not use if your seats are leather), yes it is completely safe to mix these chemicals there will be no reaction I have been doing it for a number of years. Let the chemicals set in for about 10 minutes. Extract the chemicals using hot water and repeat the process if needed. By the way Folex and Gonzo can be purchased at Home Depot, the Folex will be in the carpet section and the Gonzo will be in the general cleaning supplies. The Kids and Pets can be purchased at Tom Thumb or some other grocery stores.
878081
melt camphor in olive oil and apply frequently
166236
I suspect you used Naphtha, a volatile liquid used for cleaning items and removing oil and grease. This is a relatively safe chemical with the exception of its high volatility and flammability. However, anything is possible and if you have doubt or issues, I suggest you see a medical professional.
101358
I think the only pratical way ot do this will be to distill the kerosene.\n\nBut be aware that you are probably breaking the law by doing so. The colouration is added to make it comply with safety laws.
797283
Heat will also help break up oil.  Look at a grease-ridden frying pan after washing it with cold water and soap.  Then look at it after you have to wash it again in hot water.
1032971
If you are talking about carp fish then after you wash it well, put some paprika, turmeric salt and lemon juice on the fish and let it stay for half to one hour. then you fry it in edible oil, the lemon will kill the fishy smell. you can eat it right away or you can prepare a curry out ot it. For curry, put oil, sliced onions, cumin dust, corrinder dust, garlic paste, ginger paste, paprika and turmeric and salt and water, let it boil a bit and put the fried fish inside the curry. you have a fish curry! This is southeast Asian style of cooking carp