How much life is reduced on the brake pad when slotted and cross-drilled rotors are used?
153247
Cross drilled rotors have holes that are chamfered, meaning they have an angle cut on the top. They won't reduce the life of your pads enough for you to notice, but some added wear will result. Expect to loose about 5k miles of life. IMO this is a small amount of pad life to give up, considering the added bennefits of the cross drilled rotors. You are reducing the heat build up, which will increase the rotor life, and will help you avoid brake fade.
354549
not enough info to answer....it is hard to explain you just have to get the spring tight along with the brake cable and the brake pads as close to the rim with out rubbing....try adjusting the tiny screw that looks like it does nothing right next to the spring
205232
Sealed bearings should not be greased.  Taking off the seals lets in dirt and water, and the shields are almost impossible to properly remount.  It's preferable to use sealed (rubber shields) over shielded (metal shields) bearings, because rubber shields can tolerate a higher bearing speed for a longer time.\nOpen bearings should be used, if they can be mounted in such a way that they're protected from the intrusion of dirt and water, and there is a way to grease them from outside the machinery in which they're mounted.  Using a time-activated greasing device such as an SKF LAGD series greaser is preferable to lubricating periodically with a grease gun.
525987
http://www.sri-hybrid.co.jp/en/damping/index.html\nto know about it too
192605
Only after touchdown, not when the aircraft is in flight.  These are usually governed by squat switches on the landing gear to assure they do not deploy in flight.  The throttles are engineered to require the pilot to reduce the power setting before he can deploy the reversers, then he can reapply power with the reversers out.\n\nYes this reduces brake wear, plus adds to the stopping force available.
279419
Pop that bering out < use the allen wrench that comes with the blades > and insert the new bering.\n\nI've never done that; just saw my friend do it ... usually, I go through 4 brakes, and new wheels ... then I buy a new pair of blades ... it's not like their expensive ... in fact it's more economical to ditch the old and get new ones <cost of 8 wheels <$30>: 16 Bearings <$40>: and 4 breaks <$12> = $82 vs new blades from $60 to $120>.  Unless you're training for competition, just get the affordable stuff.
1121223
In hydraulics (actually I think they're pneumatic), you can always develop leaks from excessive force. They are pretty sufficient at completely dampening the engine movement and vibration. There's not much to them except a sealed bladder and a spring. They're also very difficult to install. With rubber mounts, the rubber can dry-rot in about 10 years or less. Unless you pay a pretty price for the hydraulics/pneumatics, I'd stick with rubbers. Cheap parts always have problems.
1034280
DON'T!!!\n\nDisc brakes are very troublesome unless they're expensive multi-pot models (and even then they can be a pain). Not only that, you absolutely do not need them unless you're mud-plugging or doing serious downhill all the time. The only advantage they offer is that they're further away from the rim and therefore less exposed to the sh1t. Unless you're clever technically you can't service them reliably, so you'll have big service bills. The parts are expensive and wear out more quickly than rim brake equivalents.\n\nBuy better rim brakes if your present brakes are no good. Cheaper, lighter, no maintenance of any consequence, good braking in all conditions and fit and forget. Personally I like top of the range Avids - cheap, good looking and very effective.
72257
Hydraulic seals wear out;especially if you accidently put gas in the hydraulic fluid resevoir.Or so I've heard.
766419
The ones I'm familiar with are made out of hard vulcanized rubber. I'm confused - do you want to find brake pads or the stuff they're made of (not formed into brake pads)?\n\nThe site below has brake pads for most every kind of bike:
144199
get rottores with both...yes there out there...they stay cooler...reduce brake fade..and help the gases produced from the pads excape..wich can keep the pads from making full contact if at all...yes that last part is true....they last just as long if not longer because the chances of warpage is reduced......\n\nas for cons...cost
165642
power and lubrication
169201
When surfaces are rubbed against each other, friction causes resistance that must be overcome by power.  The power used to overcome friction produces heat, especially at the microscopic level (atoms and molecules) that can weaken the material or even destroy it.  Rapidly moving parts (such as in an engine) create much more heat than slow moving parts such as the front wheel bearings of a car.  Within the engine, oil is circulated to all moving parts to make them slippery (reducing friction), remove heat from friction (and combustion heat) to an oil cooler and to remove sediment and any steel chips to the oil filter.  In the wheel bearing, grease (a mixture of soap and oil) reduces friction and the airstream of the moving car is enough to remove any heat produced.\n\nBTW, ball bearings are often used to convert sliding friction to rolling friction greatly reducing heat but still requiring cooling oil and lubrication within the engine.  In many pumps, there is sliding friction in the pump sleeve bearings but the bearings are lubricated and cooled by the fluid being pumped.
530896
Generally no, although in extreme cases heavy brake use can cause some flexing on the fork, but a good fork will be strong enough to take the abuse of heavy braking. You'll go through a lot of brake cables as they will stretch, and brake pads won't last long under extreme usage.
835966
only one single pad pushes against the rotor and the rotor gets pushed on to the pad behind it. the fluid will get contaminated by water and dirt over time and if u leave ur bike outside in the winter the lines might crack and the fluid will leak other risks are that depends on wat gets on to the rotor the breaks won't work as well as they are new after a while so tune up the breaks every few months and every new seasion. i had a problem with my frond disc due to the weather(the pads became too close to the rotor so they are rubbing against the rotor evey time i ride.)\n\nand how cold in celcius is 20?
19252
Well, if you could just remove the small ring the gear ratios wouldn't be the same.  The "normal" gearing for a double is 53 / 39 and on a triple is something like 52/42/30.  If it were me, I'd definately upgrade to Ultegra.  But that's assuming money isn't an object.
332363
you might just need a tune-up, or it could be more serious, try changing the spark plugs, distributer cap and rotor, a fuel additive wouldn't hurt either