have a 16gage shotgun that has become rusted and the pump action will not move how do i free it up?
151195
WD-40 was made to repel water, not lubricate. Use a decent penetrating oil, like Kroil, instead. Remove all the wood that you can, soak the action in Kroil (or similar) for a day or so and then see if you can work the action. Once you can move the pump back and forth you'll be able to detail strip the action and clean it thoroughly.
606085
I am assuming this is a true m37, if so then at the end of the tube mag there is a round threaded nut that attatches the barrel to the gun, you have to turn this counter clockwise looking down the barrel, this will release the barrel, with the nut backed off you then turn the barrel a 1/4 turn counter clockwise to release the breach then pull the barrel straight out, then you can remove the slide pump from the gun. hope this helps
1113991
try Dillion Precision\ngo to their web site and download the reloading info into a PDF folder
644265
You could apply Singer Sewing Machine oil to parts that have rusted.  You can find a convenient little plastic tube of this at Kroger grocery stores and many other places.\n\nIt is also possible to pull out the inside of the shift cable, oil it with that and put it back together. \n\nFor a cable that runs "bare" steel down part of the bicycle:\nIt is possible to lubricate this by simply sliding the outer part of the cable off of what you want to oil.  Pull it free from where it attaches to the frame and slide it over the bare part of the cable.  Oil all of the steel cable.  \n\nFor a completely solid shift cable:\nThe shift cable is 1) unscrewed from the rear derailleur,  2) housing (outer jacket) is removed (may have to remove a small aluminum cap from the derailleur end of the cable), 3) steel inner cable is oiled, 4) any kinks removed from the cable, 5) outer jacket is reinstalled, 6) clamp the end back onto the derailleur where it came from.\n\nIf this doesn't work at all, remove the rear wheel and check to make sure that the freewheel (5 gear cluster) doesn't turn both ways.  One way should go clickity clickity, and the other way should attempt to turn the wheel.  \n\nWith the bike upside down, check to be sure that your rear derailleur moves back and forth whenever you move the shifter lever.  If it does not, check the cable again, spray the rear derailleur with WD40 (don't get that stuff near a tire!) and you may need to purchase an inexpensive shifter cable from your bike shop.\n\nIf your freewheel (5 gear cluster on the rear hub) does turn both ways by hand, then it is in need of replacement.  One particularly nice option is to purchase a replacement rear wheel (5 or 6 speed rated for screw/thread on freewheel) in the right size from bikepartsusa.com or amazon.com's Niagra Cycle.  \nYou'll also need a screw-on 5 or 6 speed freewheel.  While freewheels are extraordinarily difficult to remove, they can be installed as easily as putting the lid back on the peanut butter jar, and you can request by phone that the two parts be pre-installed.  \nThis option ($25 to $30 wheel, $15 to $19 freewheel/gears) is about the cost of getting the old one repaired at a bike shop.  \n\nWhat do you do if the rear derailleur doesn't move when you move the shift lever, replace the shift cable, and already tried WD40?  Don't worry, quite a selection of Shimano's entry level derailleurs still come with the old fashioned "claw" mount, and they work great!  A Tourney TX30 with hanger mount or TX50 with hanger mount is about $8 to $10 and is compatible with older bikes.  \nYou'll need a chain tool ($3) and a Shimano 7 speed chain $(12) to complete this installation yourself.  Remove the old chain and old rear derailleur.  Size the new chain (add an inch if your new derailler has a longer "cage" like the TX70 Mega Range that works with 6-speed 13-34 Mega-Range freewheel for mountain gears--for both, add two inches), install the new derailleur, put the new chain on, insert the too-long looking Shimano connector pin (using the chain tool, pin goes--pointy end first), and snap off the excess end of the connector pin.  This is all in the directions that come with Shimano's 7 speed chains #'s HG50 and HG70.  \n\nSuitable oils for rusted bike components include Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 3-n-1 oil, and motorcycle chain oil.  Do not use car oil!  WD40 works in an emergency, but it can dissolve rubber tires and shift cable jackets.  After an initial break-in period, even these oils will attract dirt.  Remove this with dark green formula Simple Green household cleaner, rinse with water and dry with a hair-dryer or towel.  Reapply lightweight oil or use Mountain Bike wax-based chain lube if you want it to stay clean more easily or live on gravel roads.  \n\nHave fun, and remember that by removing the rear wheel, you can more easily find out what part isn't working right.\n\nfor
1088277
If you mean (kitchen sink) grinder pump ,\n1- Clean suction pipe and remove any blocking materials\n2- If problem not solved , do the same for discharge\n3- Check impeller condition for damage or broken shaft  \n    key\n    For sewage submersible grinder pumps (3 phase motor) check direction of rotation in addition to above
1012936
If it's totally frozen with rust, you'll need a new drivetrain. Proper storage will avoid problems like that.\n\nIf it's just surface rust, you can loosen it by spraying it with a penetrating liquid like WD-40 and scrubbing it with a toothbrush... not one you're planning to use on teeth again! Once that's done, apply a Teflon-based chain lubricant, available from bike stores. Don't use oil on the chain because it will attract dirt. The chain lube will help the chain shed water and avoid rust in the future.
323490
Depends my friend bought a refurbished gun at a paintball store and it broke in the first game. so, if possible i would ask the owner of the gun if you could test it out.
746233
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIf I remember correctly, the Winchester Model 70 hunting guns require a degree of up pressure toward the tip of the forearm, while the "OLD" Model 70T target guns had free floated barrels. The Model 70, nicknamed the "Rifleman's Rifle" was Winchester's Mercedes Benz of rifles, and it is doubtful they would have let a sour shooter leave New Haven!\n\nI would suggest the following:\n* Check scope bases for tightness (remember, be liberal with the "locktite" or iodine!)\n* Check to make certain the scope rings are tight on the scope bases.\n* Bore sight the rifle for 100 yards - NOTE: I just got a Model 70 in .270 ... I think it may be a featherweight synthetic or a "shadow", and I was not happy with the way it bore sighted ... the stud would not stay in place in the bore!\n* After bore sighting, fire a three shot group at the target, with the target set 25 yards from the rifle ... it should print very close to "dead-on" ... then go for 100 yards.\n* When zeroing the rifle, do so with a good sling, and perhaps a rest ... do not let the rest touch the barrel, only the fore-arm!\n* If this does not work, call the good people at Browning who are providing customer support for the defunct Winchester line ... they will probably ask him to ship it to their facility at Arnold, Mo. for repair. \n\nGood luck!
1094943
Put gas in it. or try to fix it. or take it to a specialist to get it fixed. if u dont know much about engiens, u shouldnt take it apart ur self.
949379
NO GREASE! NO MOTOR OIL! NO 3in1 OIL! NO WD-40!\n\nHere's what you do...\n\n1) CLEAN the chain with WD-40 and a shop rag. Keep dousing the chain until there is no more dirt- you may want to clean out the spaces in your rear cogs and crank at the same time;\n2) APPLY chain lubricant, I prefer Pedros. If you are going to be in wet or muddy places use the parrafin based stuff, or if you are staying on the road, teflon impregnated stuff is the best.\n\nRemember that the driveline, particularly the chain, is an open system and should have continuous maintenance to reduce wear and increase performance, and to always clean the chain before relubricating.\n\nRegarding WD-40, it was never really meant to be a lubricant. Instead it was meant for Water Displacement (hence the WD) and has been proven to be a good solution to free stuck and rusted things.
587244
take out the toner and drum, and get a can of air, and just clean out the inside. then pop it back in.
959877
Is it new? \nBolt actions require some breaking in and ideal lubrication to operate smoothly. It's a mechanical device and really doesn't work at its best until all the parts have a little wear on them. My favorite actions are what some would consider a little 'sloppy'.  \n\nPlease pardon me putting in my two cents here, but you should have found out about this problem at least a month ago on the practice range while you were getting yourself ready for the hunt. \n\nWith all the effort and time and money you invested into putting  yourself within range of that old buck, not getting off that second shot cost you a bundle not to mention the missed opportunity. \n\nPreparation makes a good hunt. Check everything and walk thru your plan over and over again, with an eye on SAFETY and SUCCESS. \n\nA good gunsmith can smooth out that action for you and make it feel great. You can find ways to do this yourself. If it's new, put a couple of hundred rounds through it on the range, it will smooth up real nice.
609946
Do you have a firearms dealer in your city?  If so take it there and they'll be able to tell you how to fix it.  Or better still, take it to a gunsmith.
161552
a couple options\n1 - take it to a welding shop and have them fill them\n2 - waterproof epoxy  make sure the metal is clean and rough first.\n3 - you could use self sealing pop rivets and rubber\n4 - get a bigger bilge pump :-)
206047
If all else fails I would try filling up the washer on a small load setting, let it agitate for a moment (to release anything trapped in the outer barrel), and then suck all of the water out using a shop vac.  This way it may get what would usually be trapped between both barrels.  Hope this works!!
791665
First thing is to check it whether you have the "lock" on, which most decent scanners have to keep the scan bar in place when moving the scanner. If not then;\n\nLooks like the cogs moving the scan bar is jammed. As with all mechanical items. If not used for a while, they jam up. Open it up and see if you can manually move them around to "free them up a bit". A bit og grease may work. Don't worry about "what if it breaks" because, it's useless now and it won't work until the moving parts are going to move.\n\nPoint of not. Most, if not all scanners are not built to be taken apart. so be careful ther wise, is the casing is broken, you will need a new one.
281218
Call the city to have them pick it up. You could take it to a dump. Good luck.