how do you clean the carbon and grease off of all clad non stick pan?
146077
DON'T USE AN S.O.S. PAD!!!  That will screw up the non-stick surface and void the warranty.  Call up the company and ask what to do. 800-255-2523.\n\nIf that doesn't work, boil water in the pan to loosen the crud. (You don't really need to add baking soda or vinegar.)  Do this repeatedly, or soak overnight in soapy water until you get most of the crud loose, which you do with something soft, like a wooden spoon wrapped in a dishcloth.\n\nGrocery stores sell plastic "pan scrapers" just for scraping things off non-stick pan surfaces without damaging the surface.  Should be like 2 or 3 for 99 cents.  Or you can try to use the edge of a PLASTIC spatula in the same way.
422459
I've just had good advice from members of the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club about just this thing.  I was told to use a hair dryer - definitely NOT a heat gun - and dental floss to lift the sticker.  Then remove any remaining adhesive with something like GooGone.
433350
Try fingernail polish remover.  It really depends on the resin.  Some may take solvents such as hexane or acetone.
469129
it's real easy.  You wash it in hot soap and mild water.  Rinse.  Put on medium heat.  Rub vegtable oil on the wok with a clean paper towel.  Then wipe with a clean paper town.  Heat wok wfor a few minutes, then cool.  Don't wash your wok afterwards, just rinse and clean with plastic pads, then reseason.  w00t!
408136
The cleaning methods in ascending order of harshness are:\n\n·         Plain water\n\n·         Mild soap / detergent\n\n·         Solvents such as kerosene, turpentine or white spirit\n\n·         Non-etching chemical cleaner\n\n·         Wax-based polish\n\n·         Abrasive wax\n\n·         Abrasive cleaner\n\nAfter cleaning the aluminium should be washed thoroughly and dried to prevent streaking. Special care should be taken to remove any traces of cleaner from edges and joins. Always follow manufacturers recommendations when using proprietary cleaning products.\n\nAbrasive cleaners can alter the appearance of polished aluminium or aluminium with a ‘grain’ finish. If the aluminium has a grain, always clean with the grain.
836185
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis is from over 30 years experience... DON'T put any type of chemical on your rifle's metal... you do not know how the chemical will react with the finish or the metal. \n\nThe time proven method of removing light rust from gun metal is to use OOO steel wool with gun oil. Put a light coat of oil on the rusted metal part and lightly rub the steel wool over the affected oiled area. Be patient, do not apply a lot of pressure. In about 10-15 minutes the rust will be removed and if the metal is blued there might be a slight lightening of the blued finish. Generally, lightening of the finish would mean either you rubbed too hard or you did not have enough oil on the metal. You can use the steel wool and oil method successfully without affecting your gun's finish. \n\nGood luck.
233115
Removing nail polish from blue jeans Blot area with a cloth soaked with\nhousehold ammonia.Rinse and repeat until all the nail polish has been removed
979793
1. buy an insulating spray (the one used for cars is good)\n2. clean the metal bob, spary it well with the insulating spray and let it dry.\n3. rub the insulated bob with a sweater or on the carpet.
495557
The answer already exists:\nhttp://answers.yahoo.com/search/search_result;_ylt=Ask3Fv6KK7.VsjY9b5.D52MjzKIX?p=teflon+stick+pan+
139624
Rinse it off first, and then take it to a drive through wash.  The pressure wash should get it all off.  Good Luck.
738307
hymm cast iron   well it has a very high carbon content  makes a real good pancake griddle or frying pan  doesnt warp under heat like many metals  its cheap   usually done in a sand mold\nis  used fore engine blocks ect   not good fore structural aplications as it is rigid  wont flex like black iron
69838
Here is a "recipe" for gun bluing\n\nBlue-Black Finish on Steel\n \na. Place object in molten sodium nitrate (700-800 degrees F) for 2-3 minutes. Remove and allow to cool somewhat; wash in hot water; dry and oil with mineral or linseed oil. \n\nb. Place in following solution for 15 minutes:\nCopper sulphate 1/2 oz.\nIron Chloride 1 lb.\nHydrochloric acid 4 oz.\nNitric acid 1/2 oz.\nWater 1 gallon\nThen allow to dry for several hours; place in above solution again for 15 minutes; remove and dry for 10 hours. Place in boiling water for 1/2 hour; dry and scratch brush very lightly. Oil with mineral or linseed oil and wipe dry.
373924
Here's how I've been cleaning my boards for 20+ years:\n\n1. Lie the board, wax up, in the sun. If it's a hot sunny day, around noon-ish, it should only take a few minutes to start melting. You'll know it's ready when the wax starts to glisten (yes, I know, people say you're not supposed to leave a surfboard in the sun, but we're only talking about a few minutes and, when compared to the amount of time it sits in the sun while you're actually out in the water surfing, that logic doesn't really add up).\n\n2. Take a wood or plastic spatula from your kitchen and start scraping the wax off in long, even strokes (you could use a wax comb, but most of them are way too small...it takes forever). Using a paper towel, remove the wax from the spatula and dump it in a trash bag. Repeat until you've got the bulk of the wax removed.\n\nIMPORTANT NOTE: Wax is gnarly stuff. If you get it on your patio or carpet, it will stain pretty much permanently once it melts. I suggest doing this on your lawn or laying down a large towel or drop cloth. Also, if it's not warm and sunny, you can use a blow dryer to soften up the wax. It's kind of a hassle, but it works.\n\n3. Using paint thinner, take a rag and wipe the entire board down (both sides). This will remove all the remaining wax, as well as any dirt or gunk on the board. Some companies sell a liquid they refer to as "wax remover" or "fire water" - it's all just paint thinner with better packaging and a bigger price tag.\n\n4. Rinse the board thoroughly with water. \n\nAd far as paddling out for the first time, you'll have all kinds of people give you all kinds of advice. 99% of it is worthless. \n\nAs long as you have a basic sense of how surfing works - paddling, catching a wave, jumping to your feet, etc. - you're pretty much ready to paddle out. No amount of advice, studying, or practice on the beach will help you ride that first wave. You just gotta keep trying until you get it. \n\nWith that said, a few suggestions to at least get you in a position to do that (and not die or kill anyone else in the process):\n\n1. Paddle out at a spot with the least amount of people you can find. Beginners are a hazard. Everytime you lose control of your board, you run the risk of tagging someone in the head. Very dangerous. \n\n2. BEFORE you paddle out, sit on the beach and watch for at least a half hour. Get a sense of where the waves are breaking, how often, and any other patterns you can pick up on. Do the other surfers in the water appear to be drifting in one direction or the other? If so, there's a current. Be aware of it. \n\n3. Use the lineups. In other words, as you're walking out into the ocean, pick a few landmarks on the beach and remember them. Then use those landmarks to gauge your location once in the water. They'll let you know if you're drifting, in which direction, and how quickly. \n\n4. Make sure your board is plenty big. The biggest mistake that 90% of beginners make is using a board that's too small. Get a big enough board and you might get up on your very first try. Get a board that's too small and it could be a YEAR before you stand up successfully. \n\n5. If possible, surf with a friend. The buddy system is tried and true. Better yet, get a friend who already knows how to surf. Don't force them to sit with you and watch you fall off 50 times in a row. Just having them in the vicinity can be helpful, especially if it gives you a chance to watch them surf. With a little luck, they'll paddle over from time to time and give you a few pointers. \n\n6. 90% of the time a beginner has blown the wave before he even attempts to stand up. This happens by either being too far back on the board (these are the guys you see paddling with the nose of the board sticking up in the air), in which case almost every wave will pass you by. Or by being too far forward on the board (these are
554003
You can remove the tarnish with baking soda, metalic aluminum, and water. The aluminum combines with the sulphur compounds in tarnish (silver sulfide) to form aluminum sulfide, leaving the silver clean. \n\nSilver polishes buff the tarnish off of the silver, leaving a thinner layer on the object. This method keeps the original silver in place.\n\nhttp://scifun.chem.wisc.edu/HOMEEXPTS/TARNISH.html
373023
Ultrasonic cleaners might be the best solution.\n\nHere is an excerpt from the source listed below: \n\nAlthough a range of possible alternative products is available today, experience has shown that substitution of TRI is not easy and even not feasible for a number of specific cases, either for technical or economical reasons. For all cases, substitution of TRI needs a thorough evaluation of all process aspects. For this reason we intend to work with the authorities in order to prevent a blanket implementation of forced substitution, and allow sustainable and continued safe use of TRI. \n\nThe alternatives you will probably consider first are the chlorinated solvents perchloroethylene (PER) and methylene chloride (MC). They match closest the technical features of TRI, such as non-flammability, high solvency power, a wide range of material compatibility and excellent drying and recycling properties.\n\nBeside PER and MC, you have probably also heard about other alternatives such as aqueous (water-based) alkaline systems, flammable solvents (e.g. hydrocarbons or modified alcohol based formulations), supercritical CO2 or hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs), etc.\n\nIt is impossible to say definitively which technology is best. That depends on your specific application, on what you are cleaning, which materials you want to remove, the cleanliness required, the variability of the parts cleaned, the throughput to be achieved, the cycle times, etc. \n\nFor example, for the cleaning of parts between two water-based manufacturing steps (e.g. galvanising), aqueous systems may be better, since parts are put into water phase again later and no energy-intensive drying step to remove the water is required. \n\nIf you need to have very clean and dry surfaces (for coating or surface hardening, for example) and if you have a variety of different metals or blind holes, narrow distances and very fine orifices or a lot of residual oil to clean, hydrocarbons or aqueous systems may not clean and dry well enough. In these cases, chlorinated solvents will offer most often the best solution as they are compatible with most materials, have a high cleaning power, are easy to dry, don't leave residual films and are easy to recycle with high quality by distillation. In addition, chlorinated solvents are today best suited to be used in modern closed systems with minimal losses. Their ecological performance has very much increased and, when used in well-operated metal cleaning systems, they outperform aqueous cleaning as long as drying is required. This has been shown by a Life Cycle Analysis carried out by Ecobilan. \n\nPER comes closest to TRI in technical performance and is often the first choice candidate as an alternative to TRI. However, it shows clear inherent technical differences, which need to be taken into consideration. On one side, PER offers a lower volatility and therefore is advantageous to minimise emissions in closed equipment. On the other side, PER has a lower solvency power and is therefore normally used at a higher cleaning temperature to achieve similar performance. This may raise concerns regarding the compatibility with specific metal working fluids and temperature-sensitive parts. \n\nMethylene chloride (MC) shows excellent cleaning properties already at low temperatures, favouring the cleaning of temperature sensitive parts. However, its high volatility makes emission control more difficult and requires special equipment.\n\nHydrofluorocarbons (HFC) and hydrofluorocarbon ethers (HFCE) are very expensive and show very limited solvency power. A thorough evaluation of the global warming potential is also required to choose the adequate product.
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That wooden cutting board is very useful, but it absorbs stains and bacteria like nobody's business. Here's how to keep it clean. \n \n   \n  Steps:  \n1.   Wipe down the board with a sponge and hot, soapy water immediately after use. (Image 1)  \n  \n2.   Get rid of minor stains by sprinkling table salt on the affected area and rubbing the area with a lemon wedge.  \n  \n3.   Use an abrasive antibacterial cleaner and scouring pad for tougher stains. (Image 2)  \n  \n4.   Rub the board with fine sandpaper to get rid of severe stains. Be sure to rub along the grain of the wood. (Image 3)  \n  \n5.   Rinse the board well.  \n  \n6.   Wipe off excess water with a clean towel and lean the board against a countertop to allow for even drying.  \n  \nTips:  \n Clean your cutting board after each use for sanitary purposes.  \n  \n To maintain an attractive finish, use a food-safe mineral oil to polish your cutting board.  \n  \n  \n  Warnings:  \n Don't leave a wooden cutting board in standing water. Doing so will cause the wood to split.  \n\n\n\nOlive oil is not recommended for use on wooden cutting boards. It becomes rancid. Seal the wood with food-grade mineral oil, especially before the first use. Use mineral oil once a week, or when needed. To clean the board and get a sanitary surface, scrub the board under hot running water, then wash it with hot, soapy water. Wipe it with a solution of one part vinegar to four parts water. Rinse it with running water and pat it dry (or allow it to air-dry).
899549
see what you can do with canned air. \nIf you can't get everything off with air, rinsing with alcohol will be much better than rinsing with water as it will not cause rust and evaporate very quickly, leaving no moisture behind. Soap and water isn't good for any electronics.