Can you mix conventional motor oil with synthetic motor oil?
147858
If you have an old car and u used to use older oils it is never recommended to use synthetic oils because it will detach some layers of rubbish from the engine and live 'em flying inside that could damage ur engine unless u use a flush oil before doing so and if u have a new car why not try the high standard synthetic oils?that would add some 3 HP to power\nanother aspect is starting in differnet tempretures:adding two different oils will prevent the additives and other stuff 2 work correctly resulting in bad starts and boiling water in ur engine.
194277
Initially, natural animal and vegetable oils were used for lubrication where needed.  Remember that many parts had much larger working clearances than what we are accustomed to today, so lubrication was somewhat less of an issue.
227976
You can run conventional out to a safe 5,000 miles or more, or 6 months, don't use grandma and grandpas old brain for thinking... and no you don't have to change the oil filter every 3,000 regardless, thats a waste of more money for no reason, use a name brand like wix or(wix made napa gold) and go the full distance. This should guarantee (with proper maintenance) that you'll be driving the car to the junkyard with a good engine.... Or use oil's like mobil one's 15,000 mile warranted oil, use it 15,000 miles (if you don't do alot of cold startups and short trips) and you'll still be driving it to the junk yard.
648031
It's not.\nIf you're thinking only of internal combustion engines, they can be built to run on a number of other fuels...\n\nKerosene/diesel, most of the alcohols, pretty much any volatile liquid or explosive gas -  hydrogen being a favourite...   (If I recall correctly, somebody once built an engine that ran on peanut oil...)\n\nIn practice, petrol/gasoline has been readily available for some time and, until recently, there was little incentive to develop efficient alternatives.  That may change.\n\nThen there's electrical propulsion, steam, direct-heat engines, and a bunch of other ideas waiting to be looked into
140226
ethanol and oil\nwater and chloroform
602681
15w-40 has a cold cranking wieght of 15... (w for winter) and is a 40 weight at operating temp, so it'll flow a little better then the 20w-40. Synthetic oils usually come in a wider range of viscositys like 0w-30, 5w-40 and such. Takes alot... too much volume index improvers and such for conventional, that the oil would go out of grade in no time... different manufacturers have a small difference in wieghts... one may be a high 40 wieght, the other a low 40 weight at operating temp. Just sticking with name brands insure quality.
178078
chip, GT40 air intake, cat-back exhaust, free-flow cats, h-pipe. The easiest thing to do is change the oil to synthetic. Less friction=more power
993253
blueb_24' s answer to the first part of you question is great. \n\nMechanical mixtures are very simple mixtures that can be separated mechanically (soap is definitely not one). Some mechanical mixtures found in everyday life: \n- M&M's (various colours)\n- Mixed vegies\n- Bag of marbles\n- Box of bolts and nuts\n\nSolutions are more complex and can only be seperated by means of their physical properties, such as boiling point. Some everyday solutions include:\n- Coffee\n- Detergent\n- Salt water\n- Vinager\n\n4.a  Solid solutions: \n- Sand - suspension mixture of solid particles\n- Muddy water - solid particles suspended in water\n- Smoke - solid mixed in gas\n\nb) a liquid solution that does not contain water:\n- Motor oil - a mixture of heavy hydrocarbons\n- Vegetable oil - mixture of plant oils\n\nc) a solution of gases\n- Air - air is a mixture of many gases\n- LP gas (liquid petroleum gas)- mixture containing mainly propane or butane (depending on application)
735251
I'm not sure they mix and if they don't I don't know which one floats on the other.\nGet a jar and pour in one then the other. Hope there is a colour difference. If they do not separate then your idea should work.\nIf they do separate it depends on which fuel will be at the level of the fuel pick up in the tank.
541264
there are different ways to do the mixture, all depends how hard do you ride, the easiest way is, mix 12 onz. of oil into 5 galls. of 91 0r 92 octane of gasoline, that should be good for easy or kind of hard riding
953172
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lubricating_oil
874055
Here is a link to a stirling engine design that uses hydraulic fluid to couple its pistons to the shaft.  It may not be the answer to your question, but it is interesting.
129903
Diesel engines were built to run on vegetable oil also. But it only works when the engine is at a certain temperater so you have to have to fuel tanks on for diesel and one for veggie oil when the engine reaches the right temp you switch to veggie power. You can buy kits to modify your car this way and there are a few garages that will do it for you.
646043
you can do .because benzene is available in crude oil!yes you should start from distillation of vaccums for producing pitch precursors!
68202
No, it is quite easy to make your own biodiesel. You do not need any special equipment. \n\nHere is a procedure:\nThe process is quite simple. Alchohol and vegetable oil or some other similar fat are mixed with the catalyst. It can be used animal fats or vegetable oils. The alchohol can be methanol or ethanol. Methanol is generally cheaper since it is made in industrial quantities from petroleum. Sodium hydroxide (aka lye or caustic soda) or potassium hydroxide are mixed in as the catalyst.\n\n1. Methanol and sodium hydroxide are combined making sodium methoxide.\n2. Sodium methoxide is mixed and stirred with vegetable oil (trigycerides). The oil molecules break apart and this produces methylesters and glycerol. The glycerol and catalyst will settle to the bottom as they are both denser than the methylesters. The methylester is drained off after the reaction is complete, about 8 hours.\n3. The methylester (biodiesel) is washed by mixing it with water. The water dissolves any traces of the catalyst and the alchohol. After settling for a few days the water can be drained from the bottom of the tank.\nThe glycerol can be filtered and purified as well. It can be burnt as fuel, or it makes a powerful degreaser (it is already almost soap) and can be made into high quality soap.
993375
Depends on what you mean.\n\nDoes an oil's viscosity change over time when used (for example, in an engine or gearbox)? Yes - although the changes aren't necessarily predictable. Theoretically, as oil is used in an engine it will oxidise and the oil will thicken, it will also pick-up carbon from the fuel combustion and will thicken, and the engine will "boil off" light ends in the oil causing it to thicken. However the oil can also absorb unburned fuel which can - in the short term - cause viscosity loss. Also, if the oil is a multigrade oil with polymeric viscosity improvers the engine can "shear" the VI improver and thin the oil. So, an engine oil's viscosity in use is dependant on a balance of these effects and is, therefor, dependent on its chemistry, the engine's mechanical condition, running conditions, fuel type, etc.\n\nGear oils are a little easier to predict - they will thicken over time in use as the oil oxidises. VI improvers are normally not present and don't interfere.\n\nIf, OTOH you are asking whether the viscosity of an oil stored in a bottle or drum will change the answer is "no" -  not in any way that will make a diffence to its use. You could store a gear oil or engine oil for 20 years and not see a substantial change - the oil may oxidise a little bit but the effect on viscosity will be negligable and, in all liklihood, the oil will have antioxidants added to it to block the oxidation anyway.
269077
Essentially, used engine oil is better and easier to refine (IE cleaner) then crude. More on it. http://www.epa.gov/epaoswer/hazwaste/usedoil/usedoil.htm