what would be the cost savings running a direc gas fired heater with return air damper or 100% outside air?
108451
it depends on the outside air temp. and humidity , but max will be 5% .
1116381
ASHRAE is the organization that publishes the standards by which heating equipment is sized and vented.  They charge for their publications however.\n\nTalk with a reputable boiler manufacturer like Paterson Kelly or Hydrotherm and they will probably give you some guidelines for no charge.
1085473
You are probably looking at about $12,000 for FM-200 installed with open shop labor (+taxes / permits).  I'd need more information about your server room to be more specific.  Since you are talking about a gaseous fire suppressant, room HEIGHT is also a factor.  The larger the room volume, the more agent will be needed to suppress a fire in it.  Presence of a subfloor, extra doors, ceiling construction all play a factor.\n\nIt's funny that you ask about FM-200 and someone gives you a lead to ANSUL.  (Ansul doesn't offer FM-200, but their sister company Pyrochem does).  That being said, Ansul does have Inergen and Novec-1230, both excellent choices for different reasons.  FM-200 is probably the best bang for your buck, however, and is available through Kidde, Fenwal, Chemetron, Pyrochem, and Fike (although Fike doesn't call it FM-200, with them it's FE-227, but it's chemically the same stuff.)\n\nHope this helps.  Contact me direct if you want additional details.  There are presently about 7 "clean agents" to choose from and there are pros and cons to all of them when comparison shopping.
1024786
Go with the energy star product because of credibility issues.\n\nThe real cost of an air conditioner is not what you paid -\n\nIt's what you pay each month, and its lots!!\n\nSteve S
229287
I think it's a lot of advertising spin.  ALL electric heaters are basically 100% efficient.  To be considered 100% efficient, it must convert ALL energy used into heat- which ALL electric heaters do- the only other byproduct being a small amount of light.  The device can be claimed more efficient than a furnace because a furnace MUST expel a certain amount of heat outdoors- as a side-effect of it requiring oxygen (from outside) to burn, and the expulsion of combusion byproducts.  \n\nAnd of course, the heater produces no fumes and uses no oxygen- there's no combustion!  OH! and the bit about becoming sleepy because your OLD heater is using up your oxygen....laughable!!  It's not impossible- but it's FAR more likely that you get sleepy because you get warm!  The same thing happens to you when you get into a warm car.\n\nSPIN!  ALL SPIN!! \n\nSave your $500 and buy a nice $50 ceramic heater.  They won't catch your curtains on fire either, they don't eat up precious oxygen, and a good one can be really quiet.
57870
You would want at least 50,000 BTU, Hope this will answer your question. I had an 1800 sq. ft. home once so I know. It costed me $5,000.00 installed with A/C and ducts.
1124736
A person needs more info. What is ambient temp for design. What is the wall, floor and ceiling construction, insulation thickness and type. \n\nThese will determine the minimum design load, from that the condensor and evaporator coils can be sized. \n\nYou need an HVAC engineer or tech to do this.
615674
dry air conducts static electricity better, and a spark might case a fire???\n\ni know that was the case in old flower mills
953626
HVAC OUTLETS- I assume you mean the fart fan from the restroom or some other air exhaust because nobody would be stupid enough to install a heat pump in that climate unless it was designed in Texas.  If I were you I would think about lowering the relative humidty of the air leaving as it is condensing and then freezing on the freezing outside surfaces or heating the outside surfaces periodically.  I wonder if there is like an economizer box you could put on it and then just periodically heat the inside of the economizer box.  \n\nYou could take an old breadbox like my grandmother used to have and stick an old '57 chevy radiator in it.  Let that part be outside and where the water vapor in the exhaust vent would condense and freeze on the fins on the radiator.  Then every once in a while, you could run some hot water or light some of those farts and run the exhaust gases through the water side of the radiator to defrost the coils.\n\nBut that brings up another issue as far as risk assessment.  I saw some internet videos of people blowing up from trying to light farts- its a cheap source or heat but the safety people dont like it cause someobdy might get hurt and the environmental people dont like it cause they have to fill out a bunch of EPA paperwork to get a permit to operate a hazardous waste treatment facility.  \n\nGood luck and dont eat the yellow snow cause there might be some husky dogs in the neighborhood.
87369
Generally speaking Natural Gas has been the cheapest for the past years. However now with the electric heat and air at 90% effeciency the centeral heating is the same cost to run as gas, and in some cases less with a well insulated home.  Energy for the stove is still less costly with gas. The Propain Gas costs more than Natural Gas. Heating Oil is a low cost now, but does not have the efficiency of the modern highly efficient electric heat pump centeral heat and air. Even cheeper is to put individual gas heaters in each bedroom and one in Living room and Kitchen. Zoning like this saves the most on home energy.Do not forget that summer will come and Air conditioning is needed aswell.Therefore a combined Airconditioning and heating system of high efficient electric is the best solution for modernization. Seperate gas heaters is the cheapest heat.
469896
This will depend on where you live. I lived in Toronto Canada and had a problem with air conditioning not working. The units were advertised as air conditioned in all rooms. One did not work at all ,it doubled as a heater in winter. We had it running not knowing prior to our renting, it had been on fire! The compressor was no longer installed . Could have had another fire and lost my family. We found out for every month it was not working ( as long as it is stated as being included in lease, and you have put in the proper repair orders)they would have to back pay $50 per unit per month, and would be required to repair and keep in working order. If you get no where and qualify go see your community lawyers for advice. It really depends on location and laws for your area, hope that helps!\n\nMore~SECTION 118. Duties of landlord and tenant\n\nA landlord shall at all times during the tenancy: \nExcept in the case of a single-family residence, keep all common areas of his building, grounds, facilities and appurtenances in a dean, safe and sanitary condition; \nMake all repairs and do whatever is necessary to put and keep the tenant's dwelling unit and premises in a fit and habitable condition, \nMaintain in good and safe working order and condition all electrical, plumbing, sanitary, heating, ventilating, air-conditioning and other facilities and appliances, including elevators, supplied or required to be supplied by him; \nExcept in the case of one-or two-family residences or where provided by a governmental entity, provide and maintain appropriate receptacles and conveniences for the removal of ashes, garbage, rubbish and other waste incidental to the occupancy of the dwelling unit and arrange for the frequent removal of such wastes; and \nExcept in the case of a single-family residence or where the service is supplied by direct and independently-metered utility connections to the dwelling unit, supply running water and reasonable amounts of hot water at all times and reasonable he-at.
725587
Air gets less dense at higher altitudes, so fewer BTU's are required to heat the same volume of air, and is proportional to the altitude.\n\nAir density varies logarithmically with altitude, so you need to correct the standard BTU heating formula by a logarithm related to altitude.  I'm at 5050 ft altitude, and the air density is 20% less than at sea level.  The correction factor for furnace sizing is therefore 1.20, which can be confirm on page 15 of the first link below.\n\nIf you want the theory behind the calculations, check out the second link - it shows the logarithmic relationships of pressure vs. altitude.
899553
I got the Vick's cool air humidifier.  (the cool air is supposed to be better)   I think it was about $30 and works pretty well.\n\nI wouldn't' think that trying to make one at home would be a good idea.  Something about sticking my head over a hot pot of water just doesn't sound safe.
1168302
Price is a local issue depending on your utility companies. However, in tems of efficiency it's got to be electric as all of the heat in the element is converted to heat in the water and less is then lost to the surroundings through the wall of the kettle than getting a flame to externally heat the kettle. The combined cycle of the gas-electricity cycle means it would still probably be more efficient to convert the gas to electricity in an efficient electricity company generator station and then to use the resultant electricity in a home.\n\nThis can be shown quite easily- put your hand over an electric kettle and feel the excess heat being given off. Now try to do that over a gas kettle!
200528
The fuel tank containing the unburned waste oil?  No, it does not need to be vented to the outside (though it needs to be vented somewhere to allow oil to be drawn from it)\n\nThe furnace itself, yes, its exhaust needs to be vented outside.  There's too much carbon monoixde and other not so nice stuff generated when you burn waste oil.  You will also need some way to allow some air from the outside to come in to replace the air being used in the combustion process that ends up going out the stack.
1120039
My colleague above defined a heat exchanger.\n\nA regenerator in thermodynamics is a heat exchanger tha uses the remaining heat of waste fumes to preheat the cold air entering combustion, for example.\n\nUsing define in Google:\n\nSame as recuperator except the gaseous products of combustion heat brick checkerwork in a chamber connected to the exhaust side of the furnace while the incoming air and fuel are being heated by the brick checkerwork in a second chamber, connected to the entrance side. At intervals, the gas flow is reversed so that incoming air and fuel contact hot checkerwork while that in the second chamber is being reheated by exhaust gases.\nwww.tdcoating.com/td_glossary_terms7.htm\n\nYou should also check www.globalspec.com and get some brochures in the sites listed. \n\nIf you are hesitating in this perhaps you should go back to college :>
1129624
Run the AC.  It might not costs as much as you think.  Close all the windows, check for air leaks around doors and windows.  If you find air leaks have the landlord fix them.  If he wont then you fix them with supplies from your local hardware store.  (you can deduct the cost from your rent if you show a receipt)  Also turning off lights makes it seem cooler in the house.