How do you size a composite ice hockey stick?  i.e. how to cut, how to remove ends etc.?
26762
Please pick a best answer when you ask a question
951112
If you can find pictures (good luck) you need to check out Kevin Weekes (N.Y. Rangers) and some of his mask designs. Not a great goaler but the man has had some incredible paint jobs everywhere he has played. He also uses different themes to "keep em fresh" and favors some of the fade in style (very clever details faded on to the mask). My personal favorite of his was a Panthers mask that was chromed out with a palm tree and Florida themed motif.Gotta look closely to see the finest details but the masks are truly amazing.\n    And a personal favorite of mine is the old time Gary Cheevers mask, nothing says hockey like a face full of stitches!!!
37633
I made a workable ice rink for my daughter in our back yard while she was very young.  She later competed in figure skating competitions.\n\nAt a hardware store, buy a roll of plastic that opens as wide and at least as long as your rink will be.  The plastic is only a few mils thick and usually comes in black or clear, for example it is used as a painting drop cloth, etc.  The thicker the better.  Clear will absorb less sunlight avoiding melting.\n\nLay out the rink using a tape measure to a length and width slightly less than the dimensions that tthe single sheet of plastic sheet will be.  Overlapping sheets may drain unless poured slowly in very cold weather.  Before the ground is frozen, dig a trench all around the rink inside your lines and make a pile of soil all around the outside of the trench that will be slightly higher than the ground inside the rink.  Lay down the plastic sheet over the ground and trench and piled earth.  Fill the plastic covered ground with water nearly to the top of the earth piles and let it freeze.  Add more watter if needed.\n\nYou can make your rink square or rectangular or even oval and size will depend on the plastic sheet and your space available.  Do not walk on the plastic sheet because you may make drain holes.  A double layer of plastic would help avoid puncture from sharp stones, etc.  Try to build on very level ground as water will seek a level surface.  Try to build away from anything that could cause injury if a skater lost control or fell outside the rink.  Try to avoid skating on the edge which would cut the plastic and allow water to drain during a thaw.  Perhaps provide a piece of old carpet where skaters have to step over the edge.  Do enjoy!  Good luck.\n\nBTW our pump water had a lot of mineral and did not make good ice.  City water or rain water would have been much better - but it worked!
276925
Well, 1st off, I suggest you buy one,(its alot less hassle). If you want to make one you would need "marine" plywood", "fiber-glass resin and Cloth", Paint, Small "skegs" and a "design-shape" to cut your board with. It is not an easy task. Alot of sanding.layering "glass". BUY a board don't try makin one!!!!!.....good luck!
463216
Well you should start taking lessons or get a coach that can help you or just ask people in the rink if you have any specific questions
702185
How to Properly Re-Grip Your Golf Clubs\n\nEvery golfer who decides to re-grip his own clubs should remember that the grip is the only direct contact with the club - so re-gripping must be done properly.\n\nTo properly re-grip a club, you must know the core size of the grip that you will require, and the size of the grip that best fits your hands.\n\nGrips come in standard core sizing: .520", .560", .580", .600" and .620". There are also special-core-sized grips for oversized-butt diameter shafts, however these types of shafts are very rare now.\n\nDetermining the core size you require is simple. Just measure the diameter of the butt of the shaft you are going to re-grip. \n\nThe diameter of the shaft should match the core diameter of the grip.\nNow determine what size grip best fits your hands. Grips come in regular, mid-size, and oversized or jumbo. To determine which grip best fits your hands, measure from your wrist (base of hand) to the end of your longest finger. If the dimension is less than 6.5 inches, use a junior grip; 6.5 to 7 inches, use a .560" grip; 7 to 7.5 inches, use a .580" grip; 7.5 to 8 inches, use a mid-size grip and over 8 inches choose a jumbo grip.\n\nOnce you have chosen your new grips and are ready to start, make sure that you have the following materials:\n\n• Grip solvent (place in a squeeze bottle).\n• Two-sided 2-inch-wide grip tape and a container to catch the unused solvent.\n• You'll also need a vise and a special rubber shaft holder.\n\nAll of the above should be available from major component companies.\n\nThe grip solvent I like to use is Coleman Camp Fuel. It does a great job and leaves no residue. DO NOT USE Varsol or WD40 - they leave an oily residue and some grips will become loose.\n\nBefore you start you must remove the old grips and the old grip tape. This needs to be done to leave the shaft clean and ready for the new tape and grip. Once you've done this, you are ready to ready to re-grip your clubs:\n\n• Put the shaft holder over you club shaft and tighten in the vise. Be careful not to overtighten if you are re-gripping graphite shafts - they can crack. Tighten just enough that the shaft does not move.\n\n• Cut a piece of grip tape about 8 inches long. Place it along the butt of the shaft, leaving about a half-inch over the end of the shaft. Wrap the tape around the shaft, making full contact for the length of the tape. Squeeze the tape together at the end of the shaft and push it slightly into the shaft to seal the end of the club.\n\n• Squeeze solvent along the tape. Fill the grip about three-quarters full of solvent. Put your finger over the hole in the end of the grip, squeeze the grip opening closed and shake the grip so the solvent covers the entire inside. Pour the solvent along the tape and be ready to install the grip.\n\n• Push the grip up and over the shaft butt. Hold the grip by the front and back and push using equal pressure with both hands. Once you start the grip sliding over the tape, do not stop until the grip is completely on the shaft.\n\n• Clean any excess solvent from the grip and let it sit for an hour. Then you're ready to go play.
762798
You didn't say how long tall or what ever you want it, make the cone then trim it to size if its for ice cream then keep it closed at the small end.  LOL
564595
I assume you are asking how to the curve the blade.\n\nYou cannot re-curve the new compositie stick blades.  However, if you have a wood stick (or replacement blade), you can re-curve it.  You need a propane torch and a table vice.\n\nTurn on the torch, and hold the stick by the shaft.  \n\nUse the torch to evenly heat up the blade.  Do NOT over heat any section that you are hitting with the torch (it will cause the fiberglass to delaminate from the wood).\n\nAfter the blade is heated, quickly place the tip of the blade in the vice, and tighten the vice (not too tight, just tight enough to hold the stick).  Curve the blade as desired, holding it in the curved position for 30 sec - 1 min.\n\nRepeat if necessary.
1125786
melt the wax ,, pour into a square mold... when set.. cut to desired size with electric knife..
999027
You are most likely to have a hard time if you buy a pre-assembled paddle. If you're serious about the sport, buy a blade  and rubber individually. Obviously you will have to buy glue as well.\nOne good website is www.zeropong.com\nYou'll get the bang for your buck here. They also teach you how to glue them.
907469
You can build it out of wood or plywood but you need to top it with puck board. I don't acutally know what that is but that's what someone told me to do. I think it's a board made out of the stuff that makes pucks but it can't be cheap or even easy to find. You should probably just go to home depot and ask someone there what would be good because you ask this question a lot, and obviously none of us are helping you.
900518
Any of the retailers can put in a custom order for you or you can sometimes place a custom order with the manufacturer directly. Try finding a pattern and brand you like and then check their website. If they don't have a place for you to put in a custom order, go through your local hockey shop or try a good online retailer (I like cyclonetaylor.com). Tell them you want to place a custom order and that you want so-and-so's pattern in whatever color you'd like. They'll tell you the minimum number of sticks you have to order from that retailer (varies, but is usually at least 12) and what it will cost. They can place the order for you with the manufacturer who will make a batch of sticks just for you.
21743
Check this out: http://www.active.com/story.cfm?story_id=8470&sidebar=597&category=icehockey
653171
Sorry, but that's just the nature of the beast.  If you're taking slappers a lot, you going to break sticks a lot.  If you refuse to use a one piece carbon outside, then try a second-hand stick.  In my town we have several "Play It Again Sports" and a couple "Second Skate".  Something like this is probably your best bet.  You'll find plenty of mid-grade sticks - mostly wood, some aluminum, a few carbon.  The PIAS by my house gets about 3-5 one-piece sticks per month.  They generally go for about 60% of their original price.\n\nBut I think your biggest challenge with a used stick is finding one with a Shanahan blade.  There aren't too many players out there that like the "S" shaped curve and high lie.  Maybe stick with an aluminum shaft and replace the Shanahan blades when you need to.\n\nIf all else fails, Easton makes an entry level one-piece called "Easton One".  The intermediate runs about $75.  If you like getting your stuff online, try http://www.icewarehouse.com/  They always seem to have decent prices.
146557
If you have a wooden one piece stick you throw it away. If it is a stick with replaceable blades you use a blowtorch or even the element on your stove. I've even used a lighter when I've broken a blade playing and a blowtorch wasn't available. Heat the shaft evenly on all sides where the blade inserts and heat aprox. 4 inches up the shaft until the glue starts to melt and bubble out the bottom of the shaft then pull it out.Then melt the glue on the replacement blade by heating it , then stick it in.
882571
It's a personal preference thing.  How much where, and if you put a knot on it.\n\nPersonally, I've never taped a knot where my top hand goes.  Just enough tape so my hand grips tape and not stick, and doesn't slip off, which is the point of tape in the first place.\n\nSome people tape their stick midway down the shaft, just enough, again, to keep grip.\n\nA lot of the kids around here tape these *huge* knots... I'm not sure they could drop their stick if they wanted to!  :D\n\nThere's a good how-to here:\nhttp://www.rivertownsports.com/hockey_101/taping_butt_end.htm\n\nFor me, I'm using a senior stick right now even though my hands are small, and the last thing I want is more bulk.  Plus I don't play rough enough hockey most of the time that my stick getting out of my hands is really an issue.  Maybe as I get better and center more, who knows.\n\nI wasn't sure if you were asking about taping the blade or not.  Again, it's a personal preference thing.  Most of us use black tape to hide the puck, and we use special sticky blade tape, which helps settle the puck and keep your stick on it more.  The tape protects the blade - important especially for those of us who use wood, which splits and then the moisture gets into the split and your blade then cracks open and becomes unusable - but it also helps you hang onto the puck.\n\nGenerally, on your blade, you do one thickness of tape at a slight angle, just where you tend to want to keep the puck on your blade.\n\nAnd when you play hockey, it's just "hockey."  ;)  We all know it's ice you're talking about.\n\n***\n\nGimaakwe, you do sometimes put tape on the shaft.  A lot of players do a crisscross or spiral tape pattern where their bottom hand goes, again for grip reasons.
185241
I use a fiberglass stick about 3 ft long and a net that is 2 ft round on a 3ft stick. Use the fiberglass stick to tease the lobster out of the hole by gently touching its feelers or by touching the hind quaters. They swim backwards so when they come out of the hole place the net behind them and tap them with the stick to scare them in the net. They must be legal size, You must have a crawfish license (sold at most bait shops) and you cannot detail them before you get to shore.