What capacity airconditioning will you require to cool a 150 sq. ft. residential room?
115612
Hey what is your climate? You know what? It doesn't matter. 150 sq ft is like a walk in closet. Get the smallest window unit you can find. Or get a great big one from a thrift store or flea market. A hand held fan blowing over an ice tray could cool that room. That must be a school question or something so you probley want pounds. 15lbs
544081
ok remember that freon or r134 are used in AC but is not like it is a substance that stays cold... you to compress it in order to make it liquid and then it absorves heat and evaporates completing the cycle... if you are looking for a sort of system that will make something stay cool.. .hmmm man it is called Air Conditioned
408219
First determine size of AC needed for the room based on room size and occupants. If the room is expected to have several people, a meeting room for example a larger BTU capacity maybe needed.\n\nThe manufacturer of the AC will have the Power (watts) and Current (amps) for the given line voltage.\nKeep in mind that a larger AC unit may require 220VAC vs the typical 120VAC.\n\nThe power is the same for both, but the Current is about half for the 220VAC unit vs the 120VAC unit. The 220VAC unit is more reliable. But not all rooms have the 220VAC service, which could require a new branch circuit to be installed.\n\n1000 BTU/h is approximately 293 Watts\n \nFor BTU to Electric conversion check out the following link:
221318
An air conditioner usually brings in some air from the outside. Even if it doesn't, no room in your house is anywhere near airtight-- for example, your door has a gap in the bottom of at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
719
There are such values, called R-values.  They define the resistance to heat loss per unit time, temperature difference and area (i.e., higher is better).  These are English units, hour-degreeF-ft^2/BTU.  An R-value of 20 means that 100 sq. ft. of wall separating a 20 deg F temperature difference for 8 hours passes 800 BTU of heat.  Typical recommended R-values (ref. 1) for use in residences are 4 to 60, depending on climate and location in the house.  For walls the range is 11 to 28.  In the ref. 2 web site you can find R ratings for various insulation materials, in R-value per inch of insulation thickness, and thicknesses required for various recommended R-values.
866450
air conditioned space\n\nis that what your looking for?
124250
No, an air conditioner will cool the room.  An air conditioner de-humidifies by passing moist warm air through a cold surface.  Water condenses and drips out.  The warm air is also cooled and sent back into the room.  The only way the air can be de-humidified is by being cooled.\n\nIf you're lucky to live in an area where you need to de-humidify in the winter, why not just buy a dehumidifier.  It will actually heat a room.
592913
a box fan works great a small fountain or even a fish tank with a water filter heavy curtains and rugs. also weather strip around doors and put a door guard will help on noise and cooling and heating bills.
775803
With insulation.  Put it between walls or floors.
545704
Well, get out your heat transfer text book and start calculating. You should have all the info you should need.
127568
1.  Do the easy things first.  Make sure that air gets to the air cooling system; clear leaves, dead raccoons, etc.\n\n2.  Since this is a chilled water system, make sure the water (or other fluid) is chemically correct.\n\n3.  Make sure the compressors are compressing properly, the pumps are pumping, and the fans are blowing.\n\n4.  If you get to #4, you're in major retrofit/replace territory.  You might get away with retrofitting with water cooling.  Otherwise, you'll have to gut the thing and start over with a bigger system.
857340
Not too hard to get a back of the envelope estimate: add the population of your target countries; take half that number as being able to afford cooling; multiply the number by 1kW (because cooling is shared - either airconditioning or refrigerators or freezers, this small figure is justified), and multiply that by 24 hours to get in kWh. I will be surprised if this figure is too far off the actual one.
986498
Introduction:\n\n An Air Cooler can be mounted in a window or through-the-wall, with powerful double blowers, this air cooler can cool rooms of upto 350 sq. ft (35 sq. m.) and its unique features make it a class apart. Be it 'alpha- sat' technology for maximum cooling by increasing saturation level. \n\nMajor Components/Parts:\n\nWide angle blowers for expanded air throw or aerodynamic front grill fins designed for minimising noise level. Ultra modern case with remote control for easy setting changes.\n\nWorking/Action:\n\nThe Air cooler is recommended for window or through-the-wall mounting for best results. It can be fitted like an window air conditioner and is suitable for all indoor spaces to ensure a very high degree of comfort in the space adjacent to the cooler.
1166636
Actually, there is an easy way to approximate your answer. A closet should reach steady-state equilibrium before the end of the day - that is, the heat added by the bulb would equal the heat lost by conduction through the ceiling, walls, etc. Once steady-state equilibrium is reached, it doesn't matter what the heat capacity of the air or the closet is - only the thermal conductivity of the walls, door, etc. and the surface area of each will be important.\n\nHere is where effective "R-value" of the walls, ceiling, door, floor is useful. R-value is just the rate of heat transfer in units of K-m^2/Watt (or in British units ft^2 F/(BTU/hr)). The metric "R-value" is about 1/6 of the corresponding R-value in British units due to the conversion factors.\n\nThe formula for difference in heat at steady state (i.e., heat rise) would be approximately:\n\nDelta-T = 100 Watts / (R1A1 + R2A2 + R3A3 + R4A4 + R5A5 + R6A6) where each of the 6 surfaces of the room are treated separately. \n\nYou need to know approximately what your insulation is for each surface - but a little research on the internet and comparison based on your closet's insulating properties should get you a halfway decent approximation.
199156
In this answer I am going to refer you to an online calculator. The power company is simply trying to get an idea of your power requirements to establish a transformer and feeder size for your home. I will also tell you in this article va is the same as wattage. You will need to know the square footage of the home , whether you have gas or electric range and dryer , small appliance and laundry circuits are a given in all homes. 2-small appliance and 1 laundry . Also needed air conditioning load if applicable , or heat pump if applicable etc. If you have a copy of the National Electrical code available to you there is a sample house load section for single family dwellings that will  be helpful. But I truly feel for your purposes the following site will give you everything with a simple fill in the blanks format. If you have any questions Ill be happy to help. Ok heres the url for the calculator.  http://www.electricalknowledge.com/SFDLoadCalc.asp
631466
2 hours power will cool it to perfection all time, you rather choose split , it better than the window unit, but if considering cost , then you can go for windows unit
501804
50C is 112F. That's pretty warm for the interior of the box but not really too hot for the CPU itself. Install another fan at every possible location on the box. Two on the back is good plus one in the power supply. Make sure the air has some place to go, don't block the vent. Also make sure there are places on the front for air to get in. You want air going from front to back, quickly and a lot of it. Reposition the cables inside the unit to prevent air blockage.