What is a better baseball bat the 2005 Easton Stealth or the 2006? Any1 test both?
117318
well I havae lots of team members who have the stealthe and have used them both. So from ive seen, for that amount of money your better off getting a bat worth its cost. The stealths are way overpriced and not the greatest of bats. You are better should probably get a vexxum (for contact hitters) or voodoo (for power hitters). If you dont like those try any luisville slugger.\n\nAnd just to really answer your question, there is really no difference between most years of bats, if the bat is changed a whole lot in between years they just make it a new. Like the connexxion was the original stealth until they changed the handle around a bit and gave it a new name.
706428
Easton makes a good comp. stick.  The Nike/Bauer VAPOR series is favored by many as well.  A lot of it depends on your size and shooting style.  Consult your Shooting Coach.
672950
The basic idea is to avoid splinters and bits breaking off the edges by gently tapping the bat with a mallet.Otherwise skip the following excellent advise. \n\nWhen you buy a bat, it is only lightly pressed at the \nfactory and the fibres are still really soft - if you \npress your fingernail into the surface you'll see what \nI mean. 'Knocking in' is the process of compressing and \nbinding these lose fibres together to allow the bat to \nwithstand the constant impact from the ball. You're \npreparing the bat to be HIT.Your aim is to 'bash' the \nsurface of the blade - not the back or the bottom of \nthe bat (that can be disastrous!) You can use an OLD, \nGOOD QUALITY ball in your hand or put it in a sock or \ntry different types of 'knocking in' mallets - my \npreference is for the solid wood version. Any good shop \nor mail order company does them for around a fiver - \nbuy one, you'll need to make use of it many times. \n\nStart 'knocking in' by gently working on the edges and \ngradually knocking them into a rounded, compressed shape \nonce you get started you'll soon see the change in \ntexture. Then keep working on the edges and the area \naround the toe of the bat - not the bottom of the bat - and think of trying to use glancing strokes that resemble \nyou edging a ball to gully, then 3rd slip, 2nd slip, etc. \nwhile all the time gradually increasing the strength of \nthe impact.Don't forget to give the middle a good going \nover but the priority should be the outside inch or so \nof the bat round both edges and the toe. \n\nHow long do you have to go through this mind numbingly \nboring routine? Slazenger recommend 6 hours - now that \nis a long, long time. If you try to do it in good 5 \nminute blocks it becomes more manageable. Essentially \nyou don't want to think about using the bat until it's \nhad at least 2 hours(24 x 5 minute sessions) but ideally \nif you can manage double that then all the better. If you \nhave the time and space and tolerant neighbours then the \nprocess can be done in a week or so - most of us need a bit \nlonger! But there's no point going to the other extreme - \nbuying a bat one season and not using it until the next. \nAnyway, such self-denial would be way beyond the likes \nof me or most cricketers I know! So use the bat but be \nsensible. \n\nAfter the initial 2-4 hours 'knocking in,' try using it \nfor hitting short catches and then in the nets against \nOLD, GOOD QUALITY balls and only against the spinners/ \nslow mediums first. A new or cheap ball can do a lot of \ndamage to an under-prepared bat and digging out a fast \nyorker in the nets can spell doom and destruction for \neven the best prepared bat! So try and middle the ball \nand play the bat in - resist the wild slogging for once! \n  \nThen do some more 'knocking in' and then some more and \nthen some more and then some more... \n\nRemember, SOME bats need a LITTLE linseed oil - but no \nmore than a couple of teaspoonfuls per season! However, \nALL BATS NEED KNOCKING IN. Gunn & Moore now provide this \nservice for around 10 pounds in their GM NOW range. For \nmost people that's 10 lbs well spent. But don't forget you'll still need to keep 'knocking in' throughout the life of your bat, knocking out indentations, evening out dead \nspots in the bat, strengthening area around glued repairs \netc. A cricket dealer I know recommends that the day you \nstop 'knocking in' is the day you throw the bat in the bin.
903995
the grobat is pretty good- have tried both and like that better. I play baseball on the boys baseball team. (just in case you are wondering why i am answering this and am a girl)
334105
Easton made a bat called the Z-core several years ago...there were -5s and -8s...but i think that was before the rule changes only allowed the use of -3s in college and high school...after the rule change i think easton changed the model name to something else
326124
Easton Stealth™ Overview:\nSc900™: 10% stronger than than the reliable Sc888™ alloy. Advanced Metal Matrix formula combines Aluminum, Scandium, Zinc, Copper, and Magnesium for superb strength.\ncXn™: Easton's patented ConneXion™ Technology. A two-piece design that uses an elastomer connector to mechanically interlock the handle to the barrel. The two pieces to act independently for a wide sweet spot and minimum vibration.\nCNT: Acronym for Carbon Nanotube. Its structure is one billionth of a meter in diameter. Because of their size, surface area, geometry and purity, carbon nanotubes are magnitudes stronger than continuous carbon fibers and metals used in manufacturing today.\nPro-Tack Grip: Soft and cushioned for a great feel with a tacky finish to improve the batter's grip
1032931
2 words my friend: baseball bat
787385
Bound's hubby here:\n\nWell ... its like this ... the only way you will find a Winchester Model 70 "Stealth" is on a used gunrack ... Winchester (as American hunters and shooters know it) closed its doors in March of this year, and the Model 70, along with the Model 94, have been discontinued from production. In talking to a representative from Browning (a sibling company of US Repeating Arms, both owned by Fabrique Nationale ... who decided to close Winchester) I was told that the future or the Model 70 (re-introduction) is very uncertain ... none can be made for 2 years, and anything beyond that is pure speculation.\n\nNow, comparing the rifles. I am not prejudiced ... I would love to get a Model 70 Stealth ... it is the closest thing to a Model 70T to come out of Winchester in almost 30 years! My shooting partner has one, I like it! The Model 70 Stealth is a very good varmint rifle. It can be built up as a long range rifle ... but it would require a high comb "marksman" style stock, micrometer adjustable metallic (front & rear) target sights and bases, and an appropriate long range scope base with a target scope of your choice for NRA long range competition. These add-ons will cost about $2000 over the cost of the Model 70 Stealth ... if you do all of the labor! The comb on the factory stock is usually too low for comfort when shooting a "long range type rifle scope", and you WILL become fatigued holding and cranning your neck in the course of a 20+ shot course of fire for 30 minutes (a single stage of fire).\n\nThe Remington 700 PSS is in the same general category as the Model 70 Stealth, but you are throwing away more money than you need to. The Model 700 PSS is a police package counter-sniper rifle, that is basically a Model 700 Varmint rifle gone cop. You would be better served purchasing a Remington 700 VLS in .308 Winchester. You would have to make the same modifications listed above for the Model 70 Stealth. By the way, Remington Customer Service and Support is great. I have not heard of, or experienced any problems with their rifles. I did have a rifle problem with my 700 Varmint about 10 years ago (5 years after I bought the rifle) and Remington took care of it very favorably! I would not hesitate to go with a Remington!\n\nAs an aside, a little about the game you wish to enter, and a more affordable way to enter it, if I may. \n\nNRA Long Range involves prone shooting of bulls-eye targets at now, 800, 900, and 1000 yards. There are two "Divisions" of rifles here: Division A (which I believe is Service Rifle) and Division B (which I believe is Match Rifle), or vice versa. \n\nAll Long Range "Service Rifle" matches are fired with either the M16/AR15 (don't wet your pants laughing), the M1 Garand, or the M14/M1A rifle, IRON SIGHTS only!\n\nAll Long Range "Match Rifle" matches are fired in 2 parts ... metallic sights (iron sights only) and any sights (rifle scopes permitted). \n\nThe most important add-on piece of equipment a shooter needs in his kit for Long Range is a VERY GOOD spotting scope, such as the KOWA or LEICA scopes ... expect to pay at least $500 for the scope, plus the eye-piece and the scope stand! \n\nTo be well equipped and kinda competitive, you will drop about $4000 in equipment (for Match Rifle). If you were going to shoot Service Rifle, you can get into it a lot less expensively! You have two options: an M1 Garand or an M1A.\n\nIf you go M1 Garand, you can get an M1 Garand from the CMP for about $500. Send your rifle out for a National Match barrel, National Match sights, a new stock, trigger job and glass bedding, and this will set you back maybe $1000 above the rifle. The benefit of the Garand is the .30-06 chambering, which will give you more "umphh" at the thousand yard line. \n\nIf you go for the M1A,  you can get a M1A National Match for just over $2100, ready to go in .308. \n\nNOW ... no matter whether you go Mat
1025335
pretty good one-batting 300 aint bad for baseball-keep the peace old hippie here
858529
in my opinion, braun is the best, with norelco and remington running close behind.  I own a norelco and its fantastic, and a bit cheaper than the braun.
1064146
higher batting average is better\nlower era is better
123331
I own a 1.8t, but i would go with the log style ATP. Maybe a BB.
676989
http://www.baseballcorner.com/batguide.asp
735532
Easton and Mizuno made good bats.
643950
You don't want to go with wood. They don't last. Anything by Easton would be a fine choice.
402547
it depends on the batsman. Some bats are heavy and some are light some have low middles for front foot preference and some have a higher middle for someone with a back foot preference. If you have a high price range SALIX bats are supposed to be quite good if not try KOOKABURRA, GUNN and MOORE and GRAY NICHOL LS are probably the most reliable.
119803
Take him with you to pick it out.  Make sure it's light for him and he has no problem with the length.  Get a high quality bat with a lot of pop.  27 or 28 ounce Easton ought to do.  And it needs to be hit a few times to break it in.