What is best prop for Yamaha 250 outboard?
110129
The selection of the best propeller is a combination of many different factors, such as type of boat, L.O.A of boat, type of hull, use and performance (i.e.: better top end speed or increased load carrying performance?)\nFirst of all, for an engine like this I would recommend a stainless steel propeller. SS propellers are stronger than most all other propeller materials with main advantages: longer life and high hydrodynamic efficiency derived from stiffer blades.\n\n To select the optimum propeller for the use of your boat and motor combination, you should make some test runs, keeping the following guidelines in mind: \n-Have a selection of propellers to test with. \n-Use an accurate tachometer to measure RPM. \n-Use an accurate speedometer or some means (i.e.: G.P.S.) to measure boat speed. \n-Safely test each setup at W.O.T. \n-Make sure every test is with "identical" settings. (i.e.: Boat load, trim angle, engine height, water conditions, etc.) \nSince Yamaha 250 is a power trim equipped engine, it should be tested at optimum trim angle which is the highest trim position that can be run without excessive venting (slippage) either in a straight line or in turns. \n\nSelecting the right propeller while testing, you must have in mind that:\n-Engine RPM at W.O.T. must be within the recommended operating range with the rated horsepower RPM as the target number (see specification in Operator's Manual). \n-Increasing or decreasing propeller pitch directly affects engine load throughout its RPM range. \n-A high pitch and/or diameter propeller on an engine, will result in lower engine RPM throughout its entire RPM range for a given throttle setting. \n-A low pitch and/or diameter propeller on the engine, will result in higher engine RPM throughout its entire RPM range for a given throttle setting. \n-A boat's hull design --and condition-- may limit its overall performance. \n-Transom height, transom angle and engine trim angle, all affect propeller performance. \n-Atmospheric pressure, temperature, and humidity also affect engine performance, which directly affects propeller performance. \n-Salt water is more buoyant than fresh water; this may cause some hulls to run faster than identical freshwater setups. \n-Water and wind conditions can play a big part in boat performance and propeller efficiency. \n-The boat's load and position of the load can significantly affect performance.\n\nGenerally, the rule of the thumb is that the correct size propeller will provide the best overall fuel economy and performance.\nIf I could have some more data, I think I would be able to give a couple of suggestions concerning number of blades, pitch and diameter for your engine/boat combination.
492920
It all depends on how much money you have to spend, but a  Burton Snowboard would be ideal, they have the best snowboards. I just bought a 2006 Burton Custom X 158. It's really nice.\n\nCheck the 2006 lineup of boards at:\nwww.burton.com
461967
yamaha is what i like best
440699
Yamaha. As high up the range as you can afford. Look at around £200 / $300 for a nice one, and anything higher is a bonus.
424025
burton or kemper. thats all i ever use, and have been using for years. they both have some pretty mellow graphics, not super flashy. i she a beginner or advanced? fiberglass cores are nice. woodcores get waterlogged. metal edged to great turns!
1059058
elements new helium boards are good. i have 1  and they are better then regular boards, they give you more balance when your grinding on rails
202189
They make a lantern hanger that cantilevers the lantern over the side of the boat. Basspro has one for 12 bucks.\n\nhttp://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.t...
1143587
well first off its MOTTOCROSS not motorcross. but its pretty easy. and if you get a good bike its gonna b expensive. but for a beginner you should get a yamaha 4stroke 250.
350522
You'd probably be best off if you checked out the "Sailmakers Apprentice." It's not as simple as just a standard pattern. You'll need to size it to your mast and boom, allow room for the camber, and pay attention to the stress areas...
908438
If your BF is really into wakeboarding and can do alot of advanced tricks i would suggest a Ronix board or a Hyperlite board. For Ronix get him the One series, excellent board. For Hyperlite get him a 2006 hyperlite Byerly. Awesome board. For his size i suggest a 139-142 cm. Find a board shop in your area or search the internet and order on-line.
1122027
Minn Kota has got to be the best as far as for pound for pound, I know the older moto guides are a pain to operate, the newer ones look about the same with a little power button on the right hand side of the foot pedal, the minn kota has about and inch and a half round nob to step on and is really dependable, most guys that have motor guides carry a spare with them. I have an 18 foot ranger and a maxx74 on it and don't have any problems with the wind, I did put a 40 all-terrain on it for a bit due to the fact the old trolling motor that came on it finally went bad, that was an old johnson/evinrude. As soon as I got the money for the maxx74 I purchased one and absoultely love it, no more getting blown down a lake. some times you can find a deal on ebay on them or bass pro, cabella's has a bargin cave and you may get a great deal their online also. Minn kota makes saltwater motors also. good luck
1103847
If your using terminal takle go with wax worms.\n\nIf you want to through lures use a 1/8 oz. Wordens Rooster tail; jigs tipped with wax worms work really well. \n\nThere is a jig put out by GRIZZLY JIG COMPANY, http://www.grizzlyjig.com/html/grizzly_jigs.html, O strongly recommend them. The rigging method for  these is easy. Take a crappie rod or any ultralight is fine, and put on a slip bobber. Set the depth at three feet attach two jigs, one at the bottom and another at 2 feet.  Cast to where you want it an dlet it go to work . These usally get hit on the sinking motion so it is easier if you are on a dock or using a crappie rod or in a boat.
920403
This is an answer I gave to a similar question sometime ago:\n\nThe best option is to go to a resort that has a good Demo shop, that way you can try before you buy. If you can't do that go to a good board shop and not a big box store (like Big 5 or Copelands) as the people working at the board shop will probably have a better idea as to what they are talking about.\n\nYou're right, there are tons and tons of choices out there. When buying a board you need to ask yourself a few important questions.\n\n1.)How good am I?\n2.)How much do I ride?\n3.)Where do I ride?\n4.)What conditions do I ride most?\n5.)What type of rider am I?\n\nThese will help you determine what board is going to be best for you.\n\nBoards specs are confusing but I'll try and breakdown the important ones for you and what you need to look for in them.\n\nLength. There is no right or wrong length as different lengths are better for different styles of riding. Remember that your height has nothing to do with it as a board has no idea how tall you are. Most boards have a range of weights that they are suited for. Generally, a longer board is more stable and requires a bit more from it's rider to perform well and a shorter board is less stable but very easy to manuever. For the most part, freeriders who are riding powder or at very high speeds like a longer board and park riders (especially jibbers) like shorter boards for their reduced swing weight and extra manueverability. Off the top of my head I'd recommend a board no shorter than a 154 for you.\n\nWidth. This is possibly the most important measurement. How big are your feet? You should ride a board that is wide enough that your heels and your toes are just above their edges. If you have too much toe or heel drag you will hang up on your turns (excess toe drag leads to excess chin drag). If your board is too wide then it will increase the effort it will take to get the board over on edge. I've actually torn the arch of my foot riding a board that was too wide (yeah, it hurt). Go for the narrowest board possible as the performance gains of quick edge control far outweigh the minimal benefit the extra width will gain you in deep snow. It's a good idea to bring your boots with you to the shop to help with this.\n\nSidecut. When you look at a board you can see that the sides of it are cut in. If you use your imagination, you can see that this cut actually begins the arc of a circle. A board with more cut draws a smaller circle and is better suited for smaller turns. A board with less cut draws out a bigger circle for bigger turns. Generally, park riders like a board with more cut as they need that added manueverability to line up the features in the park. A freerider is usually riding faster and making bigger turns than a park rider so they usually go for a board with less cut. Also, a board with deeper cut can "hook" in powder a bit. Keep in mind that it is easier to get a longer turn out of a board with more cut than it is to get a shorter turn out of a board with less cut. (am I confusing you yet?)\n\nFlex. This is the most subjective part to buying a board. A stiffer board is much more stable and responsive but requires more attention from it's rider and will fatigue you more. A softer board is very comfortable and easy to ride but will not respond as well or be as stable, especially at speed. Jibbers like soft boards as they are less likely to hook up on the rails and freeriders like the response of stiffer boards. Most boards these days are built with a flex pattern, meaning that they can be stiff in a certain aspect and soft in another. A great park board will have a stiffer tip and tail for better pop and stability in landing but will have a soft torsional (side to side) flex that will help on the rails or when coming up a little short landing a spin. A great freeride board will be stiff in the tail and underfoot for better drive and softer in the tip to help turn
56731
the air-ride 1000 brand with the shock absorbers.  i hear they received a 5 star crash test rating
257548
Shimano and Daiwa are still #1, followed by Quantum,Pflueger,Abu Garcia,Browning,and then Bass Pro Shops brand, and Cabelas brand.\n\n     If I were you, and I was looking for an inexpensive BC reel I would probably look into buying either a "Bass Pro Shops Mega Tournament"(which is $50) or a "low-end" Cabelas Brand reel. Looking at your question, I think you may be wanting to ask "What is a good SPIN-cast reel"? \n\n     In that regard, I would have to say the Daiwa "Procaster" ($24.99) would work well or any $20-30 "Zebco" reel. Match it with an "Ugly Stik" and you've got a good low-end combo.\n\nHowever, Shimano reels are fantastic and rarely have any mechanical trouble. They are expensive($99-400 dollars) but you can have them a "life-time". If you are really interested in buying a reel, get a Bass Pro Shop catalog and a Cabelas catalog. They are free, just go to there web-site and order one.
815864
My dad made a 16' cedar strip canoe.  \n\nIt is beautiful, light, and quiet on the water.  I know there are books available at Barnes and Noble or Borders, but I know he just created the form and learned how to fiberglass finish the outside.  \n\nGood luck!
321773
Southern White Pine.\n\nKnown for it's strength and height. Your best sturdy boards are made of it. ..and cost worthy.