What is the conductivity of a typical household two-part epoxy?
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Heat conductivity? electrical?
816490
Its better to get a design engineering guide from one of the plastic raw material suppliers as modifying the melt flow index would change many other properties also. A manufacturer rather than a distributor would probably provide you the information more readily.
570644
chemical properties:  high electro negativity\nphysical properties:  it's a halogen
211344
Its in Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, just type the "Faraday cage" in yahoo search you will find the 75% for your answer and rest you do your home work.
41902
usually 18-20 gage steel wire. though you can get them in plastic and or various other metals aluminum and or titainium for example though i cant see why youd want them unless you were to use them for a VERY non standard application
1088099
insulators ; conduction
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The conductivity of aluminium is required. A detailed solution of the Heat equation (A pde) is necessary to get an accurate answer. In the absence of any simplifying assumptions, this problem is not trivial
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These guys might know.\nhttp://www.suwaprecision.com/pcb/smallpcb.html
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I will say 150 °C\n\nHere is the data sheet:\n\nhttp://www.goodfellow.com/csp/active/static/A/Polyethylene_-_Low_Density.HTML
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If you are in the US, there is a building codebook that has tables for all wire sizes and their ratings.  Its called the NEC handbook
229900
Electicity in a commercial application is 3 phase, residential electricity is single phase
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you can find info on this at http://www.ap.stmarys.ca/demos/content/thermodynamics/heat_conductivity/heat_conductivity.html\n\nand \n\nhttp://hypertextbook.com/physics/thermal/conduction/
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Of the metals commonly used for conductors, copper has the highest conductivity. Silver is more conductive, but due to cost it is not practical except as a thin plating to mitigate skin effect losses at high frequencies. Because of its ease of connection by soldering or clamping, copper is still the most common choice for most light-gauge wires.\n\nCompared to copper, aluminium has worse conductivity per unit volume, but better conductivity per unit weight. In many cases, weight is more important than volume making aluminium the 'best' conductor material for certain applications. For example, it is commonly used for large-scale power distribution conductors such as overhead power lines. In many such cases, aluminium is used over a steel core that provides much greater tensile strength than would the aluminium alone [1][2].\n\nGold is occasionally used for very fine wires such as those used to wire bond integrated circuits to their lead frames. The contacts in electrical connectors are also commonly gold plated or gold flashed (over nickel). Contrary to popular belief, this is not done because gold is a better conductor; it isn't. Instead, it is done because gold is very resistant to the surface corrosion that is commonly suffered by copper, silver, or tin/lead alloys. This corrosion would have a very detrimental effect on connection quality over time; gold-plating avoids that.
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In  a given material of a given cross-section, the resistance increases with length.  Now conduction is the opposite of resistance, so the shorter it is, the better it will conduct.  \n\nEs mayor en una corta.
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1. Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength. Better protective coatings are available but not as common, field applied, brush-on, roll-on, or trowel-on coatings.\n\n2. Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard ‘plastic'.\n\n3. Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are topcoated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.\n\n4. After the two epoxy parts are combined there is a working time (pot life) during which the epoxy can be applied or used. Generally the pot life will be anywhere from minutes to one hour or longer. At the end of the potlife the mixture becomes very warm (or even dangerously hot) and quickly begins to harden.\n\n5. Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.\n\n6. In theory, a temperature change of 18 degrees F. will double or half the potlife and cure time of an epoxy. Higher temperatures will lower the viscosity (thin) the epoxy, but also reduce the working time a person has to apply the epoxy. Spreading out the mixed epoxy instead of keeping it concentrated in a bucket or container will extend the potlife.\n\n7. Generally epoxies become too thick and cure too slowly to be applied at temperatures below 50 or 60 degrees F. Temperatures in the 60s, 70s, or low 80s, are best. After the epoxy has cured, it can handle temperatures well below zero degrees F.\n\n8. Epoxies will begin to soften at about 140 degrees F, but will reharden when the temperature is reduced. For common epoxies this temperature is approximate upper end of working temperature range of epoxies. Special high temperature epoxies do exist, however.\n\n9. By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.\n\n10. There are special epoxy formulations that have increased chemical resistance, increased temperature resistance, the ability to be applied underwater, (also click here) and enhance resistance to yellowing and UV damage.\n\n11. Epoxies are expensive, but there are ways to ‘water down' the epoxies with less expensive solvents an/or non-solvent thinners. These cheaper, diluted epoxies do not perform as well as the more expensive, unaltered epoxies. Diluted down epoxies are especially common with ‘floor epoxies' where pricing pressures are especially strong. To a large degree you do ‘get what you pay for'. A common non-solvent thinner is a chemical known as nonyl phenol. This chemical is sometimes used in small amounts to make epoxy mixing ratios easy whole numbers. However, cheap epoxies may contain large amounts of this inexpensive chemical. Check your epoxy's MSDS for references to nonyl phenol.\n\n12. Another clue of a cheap epoxy is if it requires haz-mat shipping. Generally the better resin systems can be shipped non-haz-mat. The exceptions are special high temperature and/or more UV resistant epoxies, which often require haz-mat shipping.\n\n13. Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied), and crystalization of eith
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It may not be the best project, since it involves high voltage between two plates...usually science fais prohibits a dangerous element \n\nIf you proceed, insulate two plates from each other and screen fingers from touching them of touching the screen. Put a hig voltage transformer on each conductor.\n\nHere is a link for a project\nhttp://www.tceq.state.tx.us/assets/public/assistance/education/air/air_pollution_control.pdf
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I don't understand 100% your question. But one of the best sources of information for any kind of chemicals is NIST.\nBelow you have some data on polyethylene.\n\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Mask=4#Thermo-Phase\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Mask=2#Thermo-Condensed\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Type=SS\n\nGood luck!