how immersion heater are built?
105904
This is the best i can find for you:\n\nhttp://www.mechaheat.nl/engels/En2ins1.htm
76877
You might be able to make a PM machine based on a vaporizing and recondensing fluid, which is what I'm guessing you're getting at. PM, that is, as long as the necessary temperature differences continue to exist. You would need to vaporize at a low point and condense at a high point, with wheel motion bringing the heavier containers of condensed fluid down to a warmer location for vaporization. It doesn't violate any thermodynamic laws since it takes heat input and exhausts cooler output, just like the water-bobbing woodpecker does. Do it!
562654
Okay, I'll try this one -\n\nRun this experiment twice (or more times), each time with a piece of metal having different density.  The metal piece should be of adequate size (a sewing needle isn't going to do it), it needs to be big enough to significantly affect the temperature of the water.  You will need to know the mass of the metal (i.e., weigh it) and have a thermometer capable of reading from room temperature up through boiling or so.  Please note this is not going to give you a highly accurate answer, but can give you a ballpark idea (I'm guessing you're probably not doing this in a 500 million dollar lab).\n\nThe procedure:\n\n1)  Measure and record room temperature as T1.\n\n2)  Weigh the metal, call it M1.\n\n3)  Bring a known quantity of water (weigh it, or measure it and convert to weight, call it M2) to a temperature just short of boiling (say 180F to 200F, use the same temperature for each run of this experiment).  Record the temperature as T2, and remove the heat source (take it off the burner, etc.).\n\n4)  Drop in a metal piece at room temperature.  Allow a couple of minutes for heat to exchange.  Make sure you use \nthe same amount of time for each run of this experiment.\n\n5)  Measure and record the new temperature of the water as T3.\n\n6)  Repeat with your other metal samples.\n\nYou can now estimate the specific heat capacity for each metal.  It will not be super-accurate (heat escapes your system, and temperatures won't have completely equalized), but should give you some idea.  Just assume all temperatures did equalize and that no heat escaped for calculational purposes.\n\nSince (you are assuming) the heat which left the water went into the metal, then the product of mass, specific heat capacity, and temperature change should be the same for both the metal and the water (but in opposite directions).\n\nThis means that:\n\n(M1)(c1)(T3-T1) = (M2)(cw)(T2-T3)\n\nwhere c1 is the specific heat capacity of the metal, and cw is the specific heat capacity of water (look it up on Google to get the units you need).\n\nSolving this, you get:\n\n......(M2)(cw)(T2-T3)\nc1 = -----------------\n........(M1)(T3-T1)\n\n(sorry about the dots, I'm trying to keep everything aligned)\n\nRepeat the calculations for each of the metals.\n\nYou will need to calculate (or look up) the densities of each of the metals.  Then, graph density vs. the specific heat capacities you calculated, and see if your hypothesis is true.\n\nHave fun!
618003
You're going to need containers to move stuff around in which fit closely to the tubes, the tubes themselves, and then an air compressor or vacuum pump to blow them around.\n\nThe link below is for a company which will build it for you. I suspect that not many people build these themselves.\n\nGood luck!
1040977
It is done with steam. Just simple steam that you might get from a tea kettle. It doesn't have to be under pressure or any hotter than 212 deg F.
1032301
Fan, then chicken wire, then hay, then chicken wire.\nMake the hay and wire the same size square as the fan.\nThe hay should be about 6" thick.\nPlastic pipe with 3/64 holes every 6" across the top of the hay.\nConnect a hose to 1 end and cap the other.\nTurn on water little by little until you get a trickle from the holes.\nTurn on the fan.\nSwamp cooler!
778647
By fractional distillation.\nDEG distills at 93 'C, you can collect first and then collect water at 100 'C.
715196
distill\n\nboil liquid, and cool the steam.
801436
Use specific heat capacities and latent heats of these materials along with your head to get water at 0C
474430
heat from your chamber wall
361464
the principle is by compressing a coolant, and injecting this coolant into a small pipe, the size will minimize heat built up, as the coolant moves around the pipe or coil, air is blow into this coil which result into cooler air.\n\nThe coolant is then compress back to repeat the process.
1183481
Pure water.  The ice will have to melt before it could boil.  Water doesn't go through sublimation
456924
http://www.bigginhill.co.uk/solar.htm\n\nhttp://www.jc-solarhomes.com/how_to.htm\n\nhttp://www.jc-solarhomes.com/solar_heating.htm\n\nhttp://www.solar-components.com/SOLARKAL.HTM\n\nhttp://www.motherearthnews.com/top_articles/1984_January_February/Build_an_Integral_Passive_Solar_Water_Heater\n\n\nGood Luck!
206901
Add heat.\nAdd a catalyst.
1077336
there are a few diff ways for this.  the way i do it is with a rotating lazer level. you can rent them at most rental places, another way is with a transit/builders level but if you dont know how...you will be lost cause you wont know how to read it. or the cheap and easy way.   get some clear plastic hose hold the ends up and fill it with water. create a "benchmark". use a post or somthing else you can tie it to and walk away without spilling. on the other end make a leg for you to rest it on roughley as high as the post. now as you move around you can see if it isflat by marking the level in the tube cause water will seek its own level. i prob left out some things in the explanition but im sure you will pick it up.....it was good enough for the romans and it can work for you.
914327
A fired heater will probably be the cheapest way.  You could try electric heaters (you can buy the elements from water heaters at appliance repair shops - they use 240V), but the electricity cost will probably be more than for the fuel (if you were thinking gas/petrol, maybe propane or natural gas will be cheaper).  I also don't know if I'd be comfortable putting electric elements in 3500 gallons of biodiesel - I've seen a few kitchen fires, and burning oil is never pleasant.\n\nYou could also consider solar heating - it would be cheaper in the long run, but any efficient installation would have to involve heating panels, piping, pumps, and a lot of water.  You could try painting your tank black, but that probably won't work very well unless you live in the desert or high plains.
353988
I heard of a way of producing an electric courant by heating on side of a PN jonction made of two different type of metal. \nI also saw a alcool lamp with a collier all around that was producing enough electricity for a radio, that was realy long time ago ( may be 60 years ), that collier was made with near an hundred piece of two metal in alternance, and each jonction was a thermal diode.