what is the proper crimping for a remington 223 round?
102947
Nobody at a pawn shop would know the first thing about crimping a .223 round. If your bullet has a cannelure (groove around the bearing surface), then load the bullet so just the very top part of the cannelure is sticking out of the shell and crimp the round. Hands-down, the best crimping die out there for cannelured bullets is the Lee Factory Crimp Die. You can find it at any of the links below.\n\nIf you're not using a cannelured bullet, then there is no crimp. You'll be relying solely on neck tension to keep the bullet in position. If you're shooting these out of a bolt gun that's not a problem. If you're bumping them against an AR-15 feed ramp, you could have a problem. Measure the length of the loaded round, chamber one from th emagazine, then eject that round and measure again. If the bullet has moved, switch to cannelured bullets and crimp them. If the bullet didn't move, blast away!
92486
im gessing u have a victor 1 or 2 or maybe an avant to adjust the speed theres a small bolt in the back of the gun and u twist that with a wrench that it comes with. tighter faster looser slower. IMPORTANT have the gun chronographed before shooting it is DANGEROUS to have a gun over the 180 fps.
877624
Remove the "but cap" and trim back the handle to expose the blank and cut it with a hack saw or fine tooth saw so as not to crack the blank. You can go to WWW.mudhole.com they sell fishing rod blanks and stuff to make and build rod
888226
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYou should be able to. It's hard to overload a black powder rifle with black powder. Your best bet would be to read some of the black powder books published by Lyman Products, they are a leading authority on black powder and bullet casting.\n\nGood luck.
858738
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis part, surprisingly, is not available from Numrich Arms.\n\nI would suggest that you contact Wolff Springs, see link below!
93560
It is dependant on the make and model of the rifle you are trying to disassemble. There are several on-line sources for diagrams that might help you. One of the most complete can be found at http://www.e-gunparts.com/aboutschematics.asp . I have used this free resource in the past and found it very helpful.\n\nBe very careful not to bend or distort any parts during disassembly and be aware there may be springs under tension that could cause injury. If your not fully confident undertaking the disassembly, please consult a qualified gunsmith for assistance. Above all make sure the rifle is unloaded and made full safe before beginning any repair or modification
432350
Remington 700 in 7mm magnum.
1141618
I have found for my gun which is a mossberg 500 slugster that rifled federals work the best.  I have had problems with winchesters. they jammed up my gun.  Don't use sabots unless you have a rifled barrel
374475
a lathe with a quick release chuck would be the best option, especially if their are multiple items however if this isnt practicle for you then its either an external de-burring tool or a file im afraid
835146
The difference between the 223 and 224 bullets is one thousandth of an inch, you can use 223, but your accuracy may suffer. The .224 is the standard 22 bullet for centerfire(uses a primer) the 223 is a NATO design from overseas.  Just don't mess up a perfectly good 308 playing around with the accelerator toys.
106341
very carefully... use an awl and hammer
1103481
ANY CENTER FIRE CARTRIDGE ABOVE A .223
905389
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI have a Derek Martin trigger in my AR match rifle (I am not suggesting that you get one). The way he, and the Marine armorers that checked/adjusted my installation adjusted the trigger pull was to bend the "legs" of the trigger spring ever so slightly, not the hammer spring!\n\nGood luck!
209655
drill it out and use tap die to re due new threads
746233
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIf I remember correctly, the Winchester Model 70 hunting guns require a degree of up pressure toward the tip of the forearm, while the "OLD" Model 70T target guns had free floated barrels. The Model 70, nicknamed the "Rifleman's Rifle" was Winchester's Mercedes Benz of rifles, and it is doubtful they would have let a sour shooter leave New Haven!\n\nI would suggest the following:\n* Check scope bases for tightness (remember, be liberal with the "locktite" or iodine!)\n* Check to make certain the scope rings are tight on the scope bases.\n* Bore sight the rifle for 100 yards - NOTE: I just got a Model 70 in .270 ... I think it may be a featherweight synthetic or a "shadow", and I was not happy with the way it bore sighted ... the stud would not stay in place in the bore!\n* After bore sighting, fire a three shot group at the target, with the target set 25 yards from the rifle ... it should print very close to "dead-on" ... then go for 100 yards.\n* When zeroing the rifle, do so with a good sling, and perhaps a rest ... do not let the rest touch the barrel, only the fore-arm!\n* If this does not work, call the good people at Browning who are providing customer support for the defunct Winchester line ... they will probably ask him to ship it to their facility at Arnold, Mo. for repair. \n\nGood luck!
618461
my favorite in a handgun has to be a ruger vaquero 44 mag now i also like a colt commander in .45 acp. in rifles i buy cheap but what is cheap?im not going to purchase a kimber nor a weatherby. to much cash for a gret rifle and if it has that great looking barrel etching and the stock engraving why bother?i would probably be looking for anything that would scratch the rifle and harm the wood instead of hunting.i buy remington with the carbolite stock i have a few in the 700bdl and i dont have to be worried about marring the finish or scrstching the stock.a new custom stock for a 700BDL in the .300 magnum is roughly 359.00 but you add s/h to it will be over 400 bucks.this is a price from cabelas
477619
If you are using round ball then the old method was to place a ball in your hand and use just enough powder to cover the ball. But it's not really a serious problem as you can't really overload a modern black powder weapon. The only problem you would have is seating the ball enough on a revolver for the cylinder to index. I've overloaded one enough that I had to trim the ball.\n To make it easier for you just buy a powder flask which will premeasure the load for you.\n Make sure you seal all of the cylinders after you have it loaded to prevent a cook off of all the cylinders at one time, it gets really interesting when that happens.\n If you've never used black powder before it's a lot of fun, a little messy but well worth it.