i am looking for information on how to restore an antique firearm myself, especially the metal parts.?
102394
If it is truly an antique, restoring it will DESTROY any value. If you want a shooter, buy a replica!\n\nIf it is an old gun, with little value, Brownell's gun supply carries anything you need, including instructions.
121340
If you can't find anything current at the library, check out Wal-Mart.  They often have gun pricing books in the sporting goods department. Many book stores have pricing guides and newspapers like the Shotgun News that sell uesed firearms. They can be great sources for what firearms are really selling for around that time. Value is also going to depend greatly on condition and modifications to the gun
560674
Try out http://www.vm68.com  They have plenty of things on there that deals with the old Sheridan guns.  If you want you can check out the Sheridan Recognition Guide. http://www.vm68.com/stuff/sheridan_recognition_guide.html\n\nHope that helps.
354306
The serial numbers will tell you how old it is. Firearms that were made before 1968 were not required to have a serial numbers. I would take it to the local gunsmith he/she will know something about it.
55276
http://gunshopfinder.com/hk/FP6.asp\nmaybe this can help
698721
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/  <<go to that site ,click on parts services.
172951
Sigh...ask a serious question, get a bunch of pontificating on the evils of inanimate chunks of metal and wood.\n\nFor THE definitive source of gun values, you need to find a book by S.P. Fjestad, entitled "The Blue Book of Gun Values." See the link below for one possible source. This book contains every gun ever made, serial number ranges, and values according to current condition. Most gun shops have one behind the counter; you might - if you ask nice - be able to look through one there.
743973
First, don't use any Hoppe's #9 to clean it until you are sure it is not nickel plated.  This solution is made to strip bits of lead and copper from the inside of the barrel and will also pit nickel finish it comes in contact with.  The Python is a high dollar, collectable gun and if the finish is original Colt you will ruin it.\n\nWhat did they tell you when you purchased it?  Colt finished the Python in Royal Blue (easy enough to tell); shiny nickel (nearly indistiguishable from bright stainless); bright stainless; and matte stainless.  \n\nTo tell if your Python is original Colt shiny nickel:  \n\nAny factor Colt nickel on a revolver will "smudge" nearly immediately between the grip and the cylinder release.  I don't know why.  Use degreaser all you want, but just run your fingers over this area and the smudge will return.  This is fine if you intend to display your Colt under glass, but carry it and just resign yourself to having that smudge there.  I have a Colt Detective Special in shiny Colt nickel and I have never found the solution to the smudging issue.\n\nI also own a royal blue 6" Python and a matte stainless 4" Python.  I passed on a shiny nickel 6" Python because of the smudging problem and am waiting instead to see if a nice shiny stainless will come along.\n\nTo get any info available on any Colt handgun contact Colt firearms.  I don't know the website but try "Colt firearms" on a good internet search engine.  They will give you an address where for around $90. you can get info on your Colt by serial number.  The letter (suitable for framing) will tell you the date of manufacture and known ownership history.\n\nGood luck.\n\nH\n\nColt Pythons were originally made in carbon steel, not stainless steel, and offered in the Royal Blue finish or the Colt shiny nickel finish.  It was only after Colt started manufacturing Pythons in stainless steel that the shiny nickel finish was dropped.  In stainless they were available in matte finish and shiny stainless finish.  I own Colt Pythons in carbon steel (that is a non-stainless) in Royal blue finish and in matte stainless finish.  I don't know why some answers are stating that Colt Pythons are only made in stainless steel.  The original Pythons were all carbon steel.  \n\nH
981359
This will be simple for You. Break the Gun Down. Make sure You put each set of Parts in a Different area so You wont get them Mixed up. Once you have the Firing Mechanism out put the New Pin inside the spring. Clean and oil the parts with WD-40 and use this sparingly. You only want a thin coat of oil on the Workings. assemble and oil the outside of the Rifle. I'm home on weekends and will walk You through this as Need Be. I own one Myself.
310690
I would get on the browning website wwww.browning.com and find a number for them.  You can give them your serial number and they will look it up for you.
98041
Check with local antique dealer or search on Yahoo.
747899
You can try this web site:\n\nwww.e-gunparts.cam\n\nThey have parts diagrams of a lot of firearms.  they also sell parts for them.\n\ngood luck
113212
I would check Numrich GunParts http://www.e-gunparts.com/ .  They have an incredible selection of parts and referance materials.  Checkout the schenatics page for links to their many documants and resources. They are also very helpful to contact, if you can't find everying you need regarding the interchangablity of parts on these pages.
232013
Go to thejavelinman.com and he has a lot of info about rebuilding javelins and grips.  Everyone I know that needed to get their jav redone went to him.  Hope that helps.
351523
You might try the Firearm Engravers Guild of America. They have a historical database on a number of engravers.\n\nhttp://www.fega.com
641166
I am not sure if you can but if you take it to any local gun store they should be able to take down the serial number and give a back round check on it.
227400
You'll have to buy a book or get it appraised. Here's a link that'll help:\n\nhttp://www.gundealersonline.com/appraisers.asp