4 feed lines to 12 distribution points.  66 or 110 easier? How would this wiring configuration look? What about printed circuitry 110 bridge distro boards from levition? What meets code?
136093
66 is used more for voice, 110 for data.  But, ideally, for data, you'd want a patch panel.  Depends on your usage.  \nIt is more difficult to maintain the twist and the amount of jacket\nstrip with 66 blocks than with the 110 type.  Additionally, performing\na Cat 5 termination on 66 blocks is more time consuming than with the\n110 series.
166134
Cat 5 Cabling is limited to 295ft which is about 95meters so if you are only 10 meters then you should be ok make sure you have the Right cabling and your ends are color coded righ Their are 3 basic color coding 568A 568B and Crossover. I listed a web sight below that may help you some as well. good luck
115501
486A for Wire Connectors.\nFor secureness test follow the Pull Test requirement per UL. \n\n\nCheck out the following link:
213972
a drawbridge or a circuit??
385765
An 11Mbps Ethernet bridge is enough.  That is quite fast :).
481255
you want a IEEE 1394 Firewire PCI Host Adapter card\n\nfind deals here http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=IEEE+1394+Firewire+PCI+Host+Adapter+cards
53796
The previous answers are all correct, but here's a practical example that might help explain a one possible use (amongst many, of course).\n\nLet's say that you have two light bulbs and three single pole switches.  You want switch one to turn on light 1, switch two to turn on light 2 and switch three to turn on both lights.  Wiring switches one and two should be no problem, but when you introduce switch three, you have a problem.  Since it is a single pole switch, you need to connect both lights to the same terminal, and now when you throw either switch 1 or 2, both lights come on.   Now if you put a diode to each light from switch three, you can keep current from both switch one and switch two from flowing back through the shared terminal of switch three and lighting the other bulb.\n\nAlso keep in mind that there are special kinds of diodes, such as Zener diodes which are used to generate a constant voltage reference sometimes needed in electronic circuits, or as used in a voltage regulator.  A standard switching diode can also be used to provide a 0.7V voltage drop for various purposes as well.
397300
If you have all the wired slots used you can add upto 251 wireless computers or items aswell. The IP addresses only go upto 255.....I have the same router and 3 hardwired and 3 wireless and mine works fine...Thanks
216970
which port does it control? sometime you can buy pcmcia cards to do some functions. you wont find an individual chip whithout full numbers. and good luck soldering. MIKE
83812
Go here for an automatic HJT analysis:\nhttp://hjt.networktechs.com/
69234
Ignore all that crap.  Most likely, the jumpers are already set to "cable select", which means all you have to do is put the cable that says "master" on the drive that you want to be the master drive, and connect the "slave" cable to the drive that you want to be the slave.\n\nNotice how there are two IDE connections on the motherboard.  Each one can hold a master/slave (normal is two hard drives, two optical drives for a total of four drives).  The first connection is the primary, and the second IDE connection on the motherboard is the secondary.  So it IS possible to be both the primary and the master.
122576
Current PC power supplies (I'm assuming a desktop or tower style power supply here) have several types of wiring coming out of them. I'll list them with comments. \n\n--Flat 4-pin inline wite plastic connectors, lots of them. These are power connectors for devices like disk drives. Polarized and can't be inserted backwards. Usually 4 multiply colored heavy guage wires to each connector. Not all of these must be connected.\n\n--Large 2 row white plastic connector (about 20 pins) which is the main power conenctor to the motherboard. Also polarized and can't be inserted backwards. 1 of these. Must be connected to the motherboad.\n\n--Small 4-pin connector, perhaps as many as two. Power connector for small drives (like 3.5" floppy drives). Not all need to be connected to drives.\n\n--Up to two additional connectors for the motherboard. One will have 4 pins, and one 6 pins (if memory serves). They are polarized and can't be inserted backwards. These are additional power supply lines for high current motherboard circuits. If present, and the motherboard has matching sockets, they should be connected. If the motherboard has no matching connectors, leave unconnected. If the power supply doesn't have them, and the motherboard does, stop. Carefully consider the total current draw of the various components on the motherboard and attached to it. You might have to (likely will have to) get another power supply to safely satisfy the motherboard's needs.\n\nIt may be useful to know that a great many power supplies don't actually behave very well. It's not easy to design a reliable supply with good perforomance at a reasonable price and in the size constraints within which a standard power supply must fit. A misbehaving power supply can damage your motherboard, the CPU, and everything plugged into it (expensive graphic card, perhaps?). If you've gotten a power supply made by someone you've never heard of, you might want to find a local hobbyist (or perhaps better a HAM radio operator) who can test the supply for you. \n\nPC Power and Cooling have a sterling reputation for the quality and reliabilty of their power supplies. Antec is also well thought of. Neither costs so much as to justify the risk of frying several hundred dollars of CPU, graphics card, motherboard, etc. \n\nSAFETY NOTE: These power supplies have lethal voltages inside. They are NOT safe to open, unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, and even then they're dangerous as all get out. Furthermore, those lethal voltages will still be present for more than a few minutes after power is removed. Also note that many modern ATX and compatible machiens DO NOT turn off the power supply even when the front panel "power switch" is pushed and the computer shuts down. Most of the time they remain in 'warm' mode when apparently "off", and are still operating even when the computer itself isn't. Stay out of power supply innards! The only certain way to be sure the power supply is completely off (though it will remain dangerous for many minutes) is to remove the power cable. Putting it in a drawer, and closing the drawer, before doing anything further is quite sensible.
498401
There are two issues to consider, cable heating and voltage drop.  Of the two, voltage drop is by far the easiest.  You need to determine what the allowable voltage drop in you cable is.  The voltage drop is just I x R where I is the current and R is teh round trip cable resistance.  The specification of 100 kW isn't enough.  If its a high tension 100 kV line, the current is only 1 amp and a run of 16 AWG wire would deliver about 99,999 volts out of the original 100,000 volts to your load.  If its a 100 volt system then a 4 AWG wire would only deliver only 20 volts to the load.  \n\nThe formula for wire resistance (in AWG) is that 10 AWG has 0.001 ohm/ft.  Each increase of 1 in the gauge increases resistance by the cube root of 2 (about 25%).  You calculate by picking what voltage drop you can live with, for the known current figure the resistance, knowing the length figure the resistance per foot, and then pick the AWG using the above.\n\nThe second concern is wire heating.  Although you could do the heat transfer calculations, instead look up the allowable ampacity for any wire in an electrical engineers or NEC handbook.
613276
The "60 each" part of your question says you don't understand the most basic aspects of electricity.  Voltage is a measurement between two points.  Think of a 12V car battery.  It is 12 volts between the 2 terminals of the battery.  Another analogy:  two things that are 3 feet apart are 3 feet apart, not 1.5 feet each.\n\nDoubling 120 is 240, not 220, but I 220 is a commonly used number, like 110 for 120, but the standard voltages are 120 and 240.\n\nI think the point about doubling when you lose a neutral is talking about what is called a multiwire circuit.  The service into your house is the same, and some appliances like your dryer, have the same thing.  For a single phase case, a multiwire circuit has 2 phase (or hot) conductors and a neutral, with 120 volts between each phase and the neutral and 240 volts between the two phases.  This is created by a secondary winding on the utility transformer that is 240V, with a tap in the center which is grounded.  The tap is half way so it is 120V to each hot conductor.  If the neutral connection is lost, you still have 240V between the hot conductors, and all the 120V things in your house will be put in series.  For example, a couple light fixtures on 2 separate circuit breakers might be on the two opposite phases.  When the neutral is lost to the utility, there is still a connection of the neutral's of the lights, so you'll have the two lights in series and connected to 240V.  Each light will not have 240V though.  If the load on each phase were the same, removing the neutral will still leave 120V on each side.  That isn't likely, so one phase will get more than 120V (and generally cause damage) and the other phase will be less than 120V, and they will add to 240V.  It would be impossible for it to be so unbalanced that one phase would be 240V and the other would be 0.
185784
How many ways to pick 5 from 20 if order isn't important?\nAnd, how many ways to pick 2 from 7 if order isn't important?\n\nFor the second question, you have... 1,2 1,3...1,7 or 6 that include 1. Then 2,3 2,4... 2,7 which is 5 more. Then 3,4 3,5...3,7 which is 4 more. Keep doing this and you will see the answer is 6+5+4+3+2+1 = 21\n\nFor the first part 5 out of 20, note that the total number of arrangements of 20 things is 20! which is 20 x 19 x 18 x17 ..... x 2 x 1. But for every arrangement that you take the first 5 of, there will be 15! ways to arrange the rest.\nAnd for those first 5, you can get them in any order which means that 1 2 4 3 5 is the same for you as 2 3 1 4 5. So, you need to divide the 20! by both 15! and 5! which looks like this-  20!/(15! x 5!) and equals 15,504.\n\nNow for each pick from the cable houses (15,504 possible) you have 21 different ways to pick a no cable set. Therefore, multiply 15,504 by 21 to get your final answer. 325,584
176028
here is one of the datasheets available on the internet:\nhttp://www.ee.washington.edu/stores/DataSheets/74ls/74ls73.pdf
126226
Does the post code on the LED actually say "87" or does it say "8.7" with the decimal lit up as well?\n\nIf it's "8.7", then the system is hanging while it's checking the core voltage, not telling you to check it. POST codes tell you the instruction the system is attempting to carry out when it fails.\n\nIf it's "87", then it's hanging as it tries to assign IRQ's to PCI devices.\n\nRegardless, I'd start by ripping out every component other than the basics (CPU, Memory, Video card), as well as re-installing those components to make sure they're all seated properly. See if you can get it to POST at that point. If so, proceed to add individual components one at a time, attempting to POST each time you add another component. I'd also check to make sure your front panel connectors are installed correctly to the header - PWR, HDD Activity, Reset SW, etc.\n\nAs a side note, I've heard about some motherboards having issues specifically related to the main connector of the Power Supply. Is your power supply's main connector 24-pin, 20+4-pin, or 20-pin with a 20-to-24 pin converter? If it's the latter, that could be the problem. Some 24-pin mobos just won't work right with a 20-to-24 pin converter. It could also be a voltage issue with the power supply itself.