i am trying to install a water pump into my 1987 bmw 528E and i don't want to mess anything up? can you describe how to remove the existing one and put in the new one?
128028
I can't personally, but check the below link out. It tells you step by step. Good Luck\nhttp://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/21/04/eb/0900823d802104eb.jsp
317849
I assume the pump performance curve is unavailable, pity. You know what the current rpms, pressure and power is. I would apply the pump affinity laws in order to determine what the increase in rpm(flow) and power it will take to make the pressure you require. It may be  easier getting a bigger motor for the existing pump, than going through the time and effort of a single new pump, pumps in series, piping reconfiguration etc, all of which will work.
481321
Yes and it is very therapeutic. I took an ax to one and then sunk it in the river. The car would always stall out on me constantly but for no one else. I kept telling my spouse that I wanted to get rid of the thing and get a different car. He kept putting it off and finally one day it was the last straw. It stalled out on me for the last time. So I hacked it up and drown the piece of crap. It still pisses me off thinking about it. Anyways, I got a different car and my brother in law fished it out of the river, dried it out and drove it for 2 years without any problems. Isn't that a kick in the face?
126103
Chk out these sites\n\nhttp://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/65515/morrisons_opens_first_uk_bioethanol_e85_fuel_pump.html\n\n\nhttp://answers.yahoo.com/question/;_ylt=A9G_RoPMkzVE8HcAoBAezKIX?link=answer&.crumb=Vh4y6nGQN35&qid=1006040600420&.done=http%253A%252F%252Fanswers.yahoo.com%252Fquestion%252Findex%253Fqid%253D1006040600420\n\nhttp://www.europeanflightacademy.com/be77/checklist.htm\n\nhttp://efunda.globalspec.com/Search?query=Pumps&show=appnotes&frmtrk=ofInterest\n\nhttp://www.squirreltracks.com/accessories/accessories.html\n\nhttp://importer.alibaba.com/buyeroffers/i4ph0m/nocountry/Pump.html\n\nhttp://urbanlegends.about.com/library/weekly/aa062399.htm\n\nhttp://www.mtexpress.com/2001/01-11-28/01-11-28redfishfuel.htm\n\nhttp://www.midsouthracing.com/sprint_carsclassifieds1.htm\n\nmng.1432@gmail.com
488821
http://www.waterwheel.com/Guides/how_to/cpu/CPU.htm this site has guide to installing couple of different type of socket including 775
271925
Here's some complicated instructions:\n\nhttp://www.jimloy.com/math/combo.htm\n\nSeems it would just be easier to buy a new one.  They're not that expensive, if your time is worth money
415394
I'd hate to provide the alternative of installing it from the HP Recovery Console, but I think that would be the best idea. It sounds like there could be drivers and options in the disc that could be missing from your system, but I can't really tell what they would be without being able to deal with your system (And I'm pretty new to HP myself, so I probably still wouldn't know.) I know it's annoying since they load a bunch of crap from the factory back on the system, but I think it might be the safest way to restore your system back to working condition.\n\nMaybe someone else has a suggestion of how to get it done without doing this?
193242
no ... just buy a new one\n\nhttp://www.click-me.go.ro
155641
have someone press the up button.... while you squeeze it from both sides (with the door open).. and pull it up.   to make it actually work again, you probably just have to clean out the little motor inside the door.
121487
Before installing the water block, you will need to have the following parts to complete the installation.\n\n1) A Radiator suitable for computer water cooling.\n\n2) Fans for the Radiator.\n\n3) A Water Pump (aquarium or pond pump with a recommended minimum flow of 1.5 L/min at 1.5m head).\n\n4) A Reservoir (this is not essential if a closed system is being used. However, the user will require a T piece and length of pipe at the highest point in the system to purge air.).\n\n6) Six (6) Hose Clamps (nine (9) if using a closed system).\n\n7) Two (2) metres of Hose (3/8 or 1/2" internal diameter pipe depending on barb size).\n\n8) CPU Thermal Compound.\n\n\nStep 1 - Attaching Hose to Water Block\n\nAttach 2 x 1m lengths of hose (this will vary depending on the system) to each barb on the water block. Attach hose clamps and tighten (see Figure 1).\nFigure 1\nStep 2 - Testing Water Block for Leaks\n\nConnect one end of either water block hose to house tap. Purge all air from hoses and water block. Place thumb on open hose end to pressurise block. Check for water leaks around cooling block and hose connections. If hose connections leak, retighten hose clamps. If block leaks, return to place of purchase.\n\nStep 3 - Mounting Water Block to CPU\n\nPlace each triangle headed bolt through aluminium bracket holes. Place a spring over each thread and add washer and nut (screw nut down until level with top of thread - see Figure 2). Place small amount of thermal compound onto CPU (as per manufacturer's recommendations). Place water block onto CPU, ensuring that the CPU is in the centre of the cooling block and is not sitting on the CPU socket(inexperienced users should use a CPU shim to assist in installation). Place aluminium bracket over cooling block centre and connect the triangle headed bolts to the centre lug on each side of the processor socket (see Figure 3). Tighten nuts evenly (approximately 2mm at a time, alternating form one nut to the other) until springs are fully compressed. Check that there is clearance between the motherboard and triangle head.\n\nStep 4 - Completing Cooling System\n\nConnect the centre hose from the cooling block to the discharge of the pump. Connect the other water block hose to the radiator water intake. Connect radiator discharge and pump suction to reservoir, ensuring that the water level always remains higher than pump suction. For an inline system connect radiator water discharge to pump suction and install a T piece at the highest point within the system. Continue to add water at this point until all air is purged from the system. Once air is purged from the closed system, plug the T piece with an end cap.
669611
Well, you can do a lot of figuring with the water, etc, but the quicker way is to just ask the manufacturer of the pump what it's efficiency is. \nConsider the electric motor is probably 90% efficient, the water pump itself might be coupled to about 70% efficiency if it's not cavitating or restricted, so you can maybe (wild guess) get 1 Hp out of the water you are pumping out of the pump. The higher you pump the water, the more loss will add up. If you want electricity, why not use the electricity you are using to run the pump?
50838
used substitution of valve
609057
Hotwire around it in the circuit.  Cut the lead feeding into the filter after the jumper.\nJust like bypassing a sensor in a burglar alarm system.
123725
Depends on your application.\n\nPump water from a shallow (less than 20ft)or deep (greater than 20ft) well?\nHow much volume(gpm) and pressure(psi) are you looking for?\nBased on standard house current at 110VAC or off of a car battery(12V) and how long do you plan to have this pump running (few minutes at a time or hr's or day's on end)?\n\nYour question can be simple or a major under taking. \n\nA simple pump, using an old washmachine pump and motor you can come up with a basic pump. This will work on a shallow application, meaning the pump can't draw water from a resavoir being very deep, maybe a few feet. \nA sump pump is also a very shallow well type, works from a jet principle, but can't deliver a lot of pressure 10-15psi for a short period of time.\n\nWater wells which are deep, > 30ft, usually have the pump submerged into the water which then pushes the water out vs drawing the water up.\nSome of the older pumps were of a piston design, inefficient compared todays jet pump standards.\n\nOtherwise an electric moter and a mechanical pump.
502015
all u have to do before attempting algebra is stop panicking.\nBe cool and try to substitute unknown with some variable say x.\nSo the radiator has a capacity of 16 QT.\nAnd you need 40% antifreeze solution.\nSo u need (40*16)/100 quart of pure antifreeze\nwhich is equal to 6.4 pure antifreeze.\nSo suppose u need to drain x quart of antifreeze solution already in the radiator. You replace the drained solution with pure antifreeze solution.\nso form a equation:\n25% of (16-x)+ x= 6.4 \n25*(16-x)/100 + x = 6.4\n(16-x)/4 + x= 6.4\n16-x+4x=4*6.4\n3x = 25.6- 16\nx=9.6/3\nx=3.2 quart\nso u drain 3.2 quart of 25% antifreeze solution originally in the radiator and replace it with equal amount of pure antifreeze.\nHope this helps
80807
It could be your power supply, if so the follow the link below to order a new one.  You can order a 400 watt power supply for  $22.99 from tigerdirect.  Power supples are really easy to switch out, just don't unplug anything til you have the new one screwed into the back and change them out one at a time if you aren't real comfortable with doing it.\n\nBut I would open up the case to see if there are any obvious problems first.
626939
When you look at the existing cable in your PC, your see a tail hanging off the existing drive - this is for the new drive.  Before you install it, go to the back of the new drive and set it to slave - its hard to see but its on the drive.  Connect it up and look for another power supply - you might have to format it but it should work fine.