I need to know how to make a black powder solvent/cleaner that really really works to clean a traditional black powder rifle that doesn't like to fire beacause of the breach plug not getting thoroughly cleaned( this Gun Is Not An Inline so you can't take the breach plug out)
138551
go with Doobie. Believe it or not, hot soapy water is best. You don't  have to get it too hot, though. Wash thoroughly then make your final rinse water really hot -- nearly boiling. That will dry the gun. when it cools a bit, do a good job oiling it. \n\nHave fun, be safe! \n\nLeigh M\nNRA Instuctor\nhttp://www.NWSafe.org
54303
It's called the bore evacuator. It softens the backward recoil energy of the gun when it fires by providing an enlarged space for the proppelant gases to expand into.
245419
It said that the Precision Bullets are swaged with certified 6/2 lead alloy, and then a unique dry-lube formula is applied, completely encasing the precision lead core. That is awesome, I had never heard of Precision bullets before, I just might have to check them out! Thanks!
491007
Go here....\n\nhttp://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/paintball1.htm\n\nand go here......\n\nhttp://www.ottersccustoms.com/works.html\n\nBasically C02 or Air comes from your tank into a regulator then into the front valve, when you pull the trigger the bolt and striker move forward, the striker pushes open the vale for a split second letting the C02 or air up into and through the bolt which blows the paintball out of the barrell. Read the articles. Pretty good I think.
460235
Please, dear God don't tell me you are using WD-40 to clean your rifle, please!  If you are, STOP!!!  WD-40 dries into an epoxy-like film, and it builds up over time...and, if is sets long enough, will lock up the firearm...as in, with a revolver, you cannot turn the cylinder, open the cylinder, pull the trigger, anything.  I have personally witnessed this.  \nYeah, more likely than not it is leftover from what you are using to clean your gun.  Make sure you get all the gunk out of the chamber before you start firing again.  \nAlso, how often do you clean your rifle?  You should, at the least, clean the bore and the chamber after every shooting session.
496790
Use sabot slugs or non rifled slugs, do not get the slugs listed as rifled slugs as your barrel is already rifled.
32810
"By weight measure, black powder is made of seventy-five parts saltpeter finely ground, fifteen parts charcoal, and ten parts sulfur. All ingredients must be fine ground separately. This can be accomplished with either a mortar and pestle, or with a hand-cranked flour mill. Never mix all three ingredients before grinding unless you want to turn your mill into a deadly grenade, or your mortar into a cannon that can blow off your fingers or even your hand."\n\nDont forget that gunpowder is a low-explosive. it will not explode in the open atmosphere, but will explode under compretion. In other words, dont keep it in an airtight container.\nBE CAREFULL!!! Remember, flamible things tend  to burn!;-)
157656
something really harsh like paint stripper would have an effect as its quie volatile. if you can pour a flammable liquid into the tube such as petrol etc this will light from a distance but be super careful
330679
I would just order direct from the company  http://www.airsoft.com/  or try E-Bay http://search.ebay.com/airsoft-m4a1-electric_W0QQfkrZ1QQfnuZ1\nAirsoft started out strictly for law enforcement & military training, then realized they could make more money if they sold it similar to "paint ball" there are groups all over the country that play airsoft, so yeah, most of their products are good. also note the one you are looking at, the BOYI - M4A1 R.I.S appears to be discontinued, so if something went wrong you may have a hard time getting it fixed
674874
well, i will tell you, but if i get arrested for this, I will, well ill be very angry.\n\nfirst off, the reason a silencer works is because it supresses and diverts the gases released during the ignition of the bullet.\n\nwhen gas is released in a short ammount of time in a confined area, it makes a loud popping noise.\n\na silencer, has ridged teeth that trap this escaping gas, and is also muffled by a type of "insulation".\n\n\nsome say it can be done by boring a hole lenghthwise through a potatoe, then cutting it in half in the same direction.\n\n then, use a knife to make a series of ridges that "bite" back towards the barrel, like a saw blade.  make sure there is a good ammount of space between them, so that they can trap the gas.\n\nthen, use duct tape to re-assemble the potatoe into a whole, and attach it to the end of the barrel.\n\nmost likely, if this even does work, it will only be useful for one shot, before blowing itself to bits.\n\nbut, if you have access to, and experience with a machine shop, this can be done with metal tubing,\n\ncut a hollow metal fence-post in half, create the ridges with some sort of crimpled section, making sure they are only slightly wider than the cal. of the bullet. and attach the ridged peice to the fence post with insulating foam, which will also act as glue.\n\nthen, solder the halves together, and find a way to fix it to the barrel.\n\nWarning:\nthis is VERY illegal, and I highly recomend NOT doing this.
376463
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIf I remember correctly, the Winchester Model 70 hunting guns require a degree of up pressure toward the tip of the forearm, while the "OLD" Model 70T target guns had free floated barrels. The Model 70, nicknamed the "Rifleman's Rifle" was Winchester's Mercedes Benz of rifles, and it is doubtful they would have let a sour shooter leave New Haven!\n\nI would suggest the following:\n* Check scope bases for tightness (remember, be liberal with the "locktite" or iodine!)\n* Check to make certain the scope rings are tight on the scope bases.\n* Bore sight the rifle for 100 yards - NOTE: I just got a Model 70 in .270 ... I think it may be a featherweight synthetic or a "shadow", and I was not happy with the way it bore sighted ... the stud would not stay in place in the bore!\n* After bore sighting, fire a three shot group at the target, with the target set 25 yards from the rifle ... it should print very close to "dead-on" ... then go for 100 yards.\n* When zeroing the rifle, do so with a good sling, and perhaps a rest ... do not let the rest touch the barrel, only the fore-arm!\n* If this does not work, call the good people at Browning who are providing customer support for the defunct Winchester line ... they will probably ask him to ship it to their facility at Arnold, Mo. for repair. \n\nGood luck!
443371
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis is from over 30 years experience... DON'T put any type of chemical on your rifle's metal... you do not know how the chemical will react with the finish or the metal. \n\nThe time proven method of removing light rust from gun metal is to use OOO steel wool with gun oil. Put a light coat of oil on the rusted metal part and lightly rub the steel wool over the affected oiled area. Be patient, do not apply a lot of pressure. In about 10-15 minutes the rust will be removed and if the metal is blued there might be a slight lightening of the blued finish. Generally, lightening of the finish would mean either you rubbed too hard or you did not have enough oil on the metal. You can use the steel wool and oil method successfully without affecting your gun's finish. \n\nGood luck.
448643
A rebuild kit may not be (and is not likely to be) available.  These were cheap enough at the time to be disposable in case of severe damage (the only fix then - as now would be a gunsmith).\n\nThey are called that because they are like blacksmiths and can make a part if it doesn't exist.\nI suggest that to be your best recourse if restoring this rifle is worthwhile of such expense - depending on your personal critiria.\n\nI think you might want to search on eBay - and the Internet as a whole - for entire guns.\n\nYou may also want to look for "for parts" guns - and hope that the same part is not broken.  I took mine apart and couldn't get it back together.  That would've been about 5 years earlier than yours.\n\nIt was eventually replaced by a .22 rimfire ($39.95 from K-Mart) and tossed out.\n\nThat was probably the fate of most of these.\n\nP.S. Perhaps a gunsmith could advise you of the feasibility of finding a rebuild kit, or what options are available.  I suggest that you persue that also.
65887
I suspect you used Naphtha, a volatile liquid used for cleaning items and removing oil and grease. This is a relatively safe chemical with the exception of its high volatility and flammability. However, anything is possible and if you have doubt or issues, I suggest you see a medical professional.
381132
Wolf sells surplus 223 rds but I would recommend against them. I used them in my bushmaster and it was freaking hard to clean. Also, the gun started jamming after about 40 rounds. They have a lacquer coating on them that gets hot and gooey in the barrel.
663950
What you need is a plastic bucket (unless you're willing to clean your clubs in a bathroom or kitchen sink), a mild dishwashing detergent, an old toothbrush or other brush with plastic bristles, and an old towel for drying.Squirt a little of the dishwashing liquid into the bottom, then add warm water to create suds. Make sure the water is warm, not too hot (very hot water can loosen the ferrule on golf clubs).\nYou only need enough water in the bucket to cover the heads of your irons\nAfter 1-2 minutes of soaking time, take each club in turn and use an old toothbrush (or other plastic-bristled brush) to clean out the grooves on the clubface. This is the most important step in cleaning your clubs - removing all dirt and debris from the grooves. \nAlso drag the brush across the sole of the iron and over the back of the clubhead, removing dirt, grass and other debris. \n\nA soft-bristled brush should work fine. If you've allowed dirt to build up in the grooves and harden over time, you may need to allow more soaking time and then use a stiff-bristled brush. Never use a wire-bristled brush during cleaning.\n\nUse your old towel to dry off the clubhead. Also drag the towel up the shaft of the club. This will remove any loose debris from the shaft and also ensure that the shaft doesn't go back into your bag wet.\nNever submerge persimmon woods in water. It's a good idea not to submerge metal woods, either, because they usually have a nice, glossy finish.\nInstead, quickly dip metal woods into the sudsy water, rub with a moist cloth, then dry with a dry cloth. Use a moist cloth to clean off persimmon clubheads, then dry immediately.\n\nUse a soft-bristled brush, if necessary, to clean out the grooves on woods.
199969
Before you trade your gun, try using loc-tite on the threads of your mounting screws,I'm assuming your talking about a standard "Weaver" mount set up. Position your scope where you want it for shooting, tighten the front mount screw, back out the rear and put some thread lock on it, tighten it as much as you can, then do the same with the front screw. This is how we mount all out scopes on our sniper rifles, if you have a different set up, feel free to e-mail me