I have an old style, well made at the time (German, brass, cast iron) transit.  I was told (about 10 years ago) that this device was about 75 years old.  \n\nThis week I attempted to use it, but had a specific problem.  After I get the bubble in the single horizontal vial centered, it does not stay level when I rotate the scope.  \n\nAm I doing something wrong in the initial leveling process, or is this a function of an older instrument? \n\n10 points for the first person who can solve my problem.  Thanks.
121125
My transit is about 75 years old also and was manufactured by Keuffel and Esser in New Jersey I believe. I have the original user booklet with the instructions on how to set up, adjust and test the "architect's level" as it was called because there is no elevation axis (only the 360 degree azimuth rotation). It works fine for me and I've used it many times. I have the original tripod support that the base of the transit screws onto.\nThe ultimate precision of my transit is referenced to the rigid metal bar that holds the telescope optics tube and rotates on the upright "spindle" shaft and bearing. When new from the factory, the only tripod setup adjustments required are the 4 hard rubber pads with knurled knobs located every 90 degrees around the transit baseplate that screws to the top of the tripod. Once the tripod is approximately level with a plumb-bob dangling down from the center of the transit to a reference pin location in the ground, you start adjusting the 4 hard rubber pads with the knurled knobs by aligning the telescope tube alternately over two opposing rubber pad adjustors. Gradually, you can get the leveling bubble to stay in the center of the leveling tube no matter what bearing you rotate the transit and point the telescope tube to. The instruction book notes that a factory calibration is done to make sure that the level bubble tube is exactly parallel to the rigid bar which rotates on the spindle described above. Also it notes that the telescope optics tube itself, of course, has to be parallel with the same rigid bar and the level bubble tube. You can imagine how sensitive all these adjustments are when you start to use the instrument at longer distances, because only a very slight mechanical movement sends the cross hairs far afield. My only regret is that my transit doesn't have an elevation axis!
515655
Bound's hubby here:\n\nBy your description is sounds like you have a Colt "Lightweight" Commander (sometimes called a Combat Commander). I do not know how you arrived at "fair" condition, but by your description this pulls down the value of your pistol. Again, by your description, it sounds like your Colt was made sometime in the 1970's. This vintage will add to the value, however, based on local pricing your Colt may pull $200-$300 but no more than $400 if the future buyer knows anything about pistols. \n\nGood luck.
474449
Do you know the aperture and what kind of a telescope it is, or where it is made?\n\nI've attempted several web searches and cannot find any "Novus" brand telescope. Is this something you got off of eBay? Because I hope you didn't pay very much for it. It is more than likely that it is toy junk.\n\nGood luck. Add more details to your question and you might get more info.
535438
Is it new? \nBolt actions require some breaking in and ideal lubrication to operate smoothly. It's a mechanical device and really doesn't work at its best until all the parts have a little wear on them. My favorite actions are what some would consider a little 'sloppy'.  \n\nPlease pardon me putting in my two cents here, but you should have found out about this problem at least a month ago on the practice range while you were getting yourself ready for the hunt. \n\nWith all the effort and time and money you invested into putting  yourself within range of that old buck, not getting off that second shot cost you a bundle not to mention the missed opportunity. \n\nPreparation makes a good hunt. Check everything and walk thru your plan over and over again, with an eye on SAFETY and SUCCESS. \n\nA good gunsmith can smooth out that action for you and make it feel great. You can find ways to do this yourself. If it's new, put a couple of hundred rounds through it on the range, it will smooth up real nice.
289321
I am not a med student but I have a st jude pacemaker. Are you having problems with your equip? I have had to have my wires replaced twice and now the new set is fractured, I clotted the first time so my cardiologist says that when he changes them he will have to open my chest and put me on the by-pass machine so that he won't disturb any of the clotted area.....I' m really worried about it.
38121
got a dandy.....even though  it  seems  difficult   youll  break through  and  find  out  you can  almost  measure  anything....try  this  because  i dont  know  what  type  of  equipment  you have....in  search  bar  go.....vernier  read .. hit search..the  NTNU site java  is  excellentyou you can  even  practice  measuring  on  line.....reading  a  vernier  is  good too.....check  them  all
426437
While at a gem and mineral show, My wife walked over to a table that had stands or displays of many different types of pendulums, she held her hand just away from each one as she moved down the line. There wasn't a draft in the arena yet one moved towards her. She felt this pendulum was calling out to her. After buying it and taking it home she sat down and braced her elbow on the table. She held the pendulums chain between her index finger and middle finger. Suspending it over the table.\nFirst she asked "could I have a yes?" the pendulum swung forwards and back. Then my wife asked, "could I have a no?" this time the pendulum swung from side to side. As my wife went through some questions, later we learn the pendulum was a female.\nmumbo jumbo?.. I didn't believe it, until I had seen it myself. The main thing I watched, was if my wife's arm was moving... It didn't.\nThis was our first time using a pendulum. Afterwards we spoke to others who have pendulums themselves. They told us how to clean, and care for them. As a "Rock Hound" I was willing to cut and craft these stones and minerals for my wife's hobby. This was about two years ago. Today we have a vast collection of stones, crystals, gems, and minerals...and yes a few more pendulums.
368496
Bound's hubby here:\n\nAccording to my Remington catalog, it sounds like you have a Remington 870 Special Purpose Super Mag with a non-reflective matte black finish. \n\nThis is what you have to do to take care of your shotgun. \n\nGet some OOO or OOOO steel wool and some good gun oil. Put a generous coat of oil on the rusted part of the barrel, and with LIGHT pressure, rub the steel wool over the rusted portion(s) of the barrel. Do not rub too hard! Remember ... be patient! It took 2 years to rust the barrel up ... it will take some time to clean it up. As the steel wool disintigrates, replenish the oil on the barrel and frequently replace the steel wool.\n\nIt may be possible, with LIGHT pressure, that you will not adversely harm the finish ... but expect that the oil and steel wool will "lighten" the black matte finish. \n\nWhen you are sufficiently satisfied with the rust removal, clean the exterior of the barrel with Hoppes or some similar bore cleaner. You may find, after removing the residual gun oil and steel wool, that you did not clean the rust off the barrel as well as you thought, and you may have to repeat the removal process a few times. Once the rust has been removed to your satisfaction, clean the barrel and oil the barrel. \n\nOn the down side ... I do not know what you could apply to "restore" the non-reflective matte black finish. I doubt that the typical gunsmith will have the materials or desire to refinish a non-reflective matte black finish ... they have enough investment in the tanks and materials to refinish guns with hot blue ... and perhaps parkerizing ...but ..!\n\nIf you want an original finish barrel if you are dissatisfied with the rust removal ... you will most likely have only two options ... send the barrel back to Remington for re-finishing ... or ... purchase a new repalcement "Special Purpose" barrel! Sorry!\n\nGood luck!
146497
as a body piercer, I can tell you that it wont heal fast, because you pierced it yourself.Sewing needles are made of bad quality metals that usuially cause more irritation to the piercing.\nOnce the swelling goes down it wont rub on your gums as much.\nBut I dont quite understand what you did. Please answer some of the following questions, and I'll change my answer to help you out more.\n1) What type of jewlery do you have in now? What gauge and size is it? Is it a hoop? labet post? earring stud? What material or typer of metal is it made out of?\n2)did you clean anything before you pierced it?\n3)How have you been cleaning it?
539839
Dude. What textbook from the 70's are you working out of? A 33 record? I think my grandma has some of those!\n\nNot to continue on the outdated of the details of this question, but ask someone 40 or older if 15cm from the center of a 33 would even still be on the vinyl! I don't remember if it was 33's or 45's that were the little ones. I'm thinking 33's were the larger- so 15cm would put the coin right the outer edge.\n\nIt would make a difference, so I'm not just being smart a**.
460235
Please, dear God don't tell me you are using WD-40 to clean your rifle, please!  If you are, STOP!!!  WD-40 dries into an epoxy-like film, and it builds up over time...and, if is sets long enough, will lock up the firearm...as in, with a revolver, you cannot turn the cylinder, open the cylinder, pull the trigger, anything.  I have personally witnessed this.  \nYeah, more likely than not it is leftover from what you are using to clean your gun.  Make sure you get all the gunk out of the chamber before you start firing again.  \nAlso, how often do you clean your rifle?  You should, at the least, clean the bore and the chamber after every shooting session.
218146
I've always just used lots of hot soapy water (dawn dishwashing liquid). Of course, you have to get it really dry afterwards. I also drilled out my nipple to 1/16th inch. and I always use a pipe cleaner to clean out the tunnel from the nipple to the inside firing chamber. I'm not sure what you would need to do if you had a flintlock. I've never had one of those. Mine is a T/C .50 cal Hawkins. I've never had a misfire with it.
193121
this guy knows a lot about old bottles, I have found much useful info \nherehttp://www.bottlebooks.com/questions/August%202004/august_2004_questions.htm
416765
I think that signal comes out of Denver.  I have had several and enjoy the accuracy.  Forget what that other guy said.  All of mine have had a two minute synch time.  If you fail to get a grip on the signal in that amount of time, you have to reset and start over.  You may have to try different placements.  I don't know why but once you get a synch the unit won't lose it if you move it around, as much as it looses it on initializing.
517786
I'm on a destroyer and we have had our CIWS train on seagulls before.  Ha!  Yours is probably a Block 1B or greater, and has probably had some software upgrades that will enable it to track objects that small.  When you consider that it's designed to counter antiship cruise missiles (the nose-on aspect of which is only slightly larger than a mortar round) you shouldn't have much to worry about as far as the radar.  From my experience though, it's a really buggy system especially if you have the pneumatic drive vice the hydraulic system.  You get 4500 rounds a minute, but the tradeoff is less reliability.  What's more important?  Keep your head down out there, dude.
598585
Good Morning!  Saw this one and had to try my hand.  If the "knob" is not screwing down all the way?  and there is thread damage to the parts?  That is called cross-threading.  Some also refer to this as "galling".  In some situations?  the thread "pitch" of one part could differ from the other causing the problem as well.  Hope this helps in some small way!  Hyway.
370773
What do you mean by the outlet temperature not being uniform. Do you mean not the same over time? Or are there multiple outlets and the temperature from each outlet is not the same?\n\nIf the inlet and outlet channels or headers are not designed carefully to allow for good fluid dynamics then there can certainly be portions of the exchanger that is not getting the same flow as other portions.\n\nWithout more information, I can not see how an energy balance will help solve the problem.