I have a 3 phase 220v motor and single phase 220v outlet. Do you know of a way to run this motor without a converter. A simple solution to run this motor for less than 5 minutes.
119701
If you are in the US, power is usually supplied to a factory as 3-phase using three separate wires (not counting any ground wire).  You can see the three wires where they enter the building at the mast.  Most homes have only two wires for two-phase service.  Any single wire to ground (single phase) provides 110 Volts (for light bulbs, etc.).  Any two wires and a ground (two-phase) provides 220 Volts and is used in large heaters and perhaps motors.  Any 3 wires and a ground (three-phase) provides 440 Volts and is used in large transformers and large motors.  Only qualified electricians should connect two or three-phase motors to circuits because they require (by code) special breakers and fuses to protect machines and personnel.  I am sure that running it for less than five minutes would not absolve you of any liability, right?  Good luck.
80077
BATTERY AND CRAP???? lolz...wat exactly were u tryin to say!??! guy said he uses AC power not BATTERY..'nd i....errrrrm.....ammm..i dunno wat to say...guys help him out.... yo man..tc...!!
370427
Unless you are playing with low voltage, please find some other project. 120 Volt or 220 volt is very dangerous.\n\nAny way you will need all the components in same voltage I say get every thing in under 9 volts to make things easy, they must operate in 6 to 8 volt range so you will have voltage to spare. You may not be able to find them readily.\n\nThis is how it works.\n\nClapping sound is picked up by micro phone.\n\nThis produces a signal, that will close an open circuit on a lamp(or any thing that you need to turn on like a bell).\n\nTo make a package, like the one you buy in the store, it took quite a few years to perfect it, and they had experts working on it.. \n\n1.  9 volt battery. few to operate the systems.\n2.  red and black wire.\n3.  9 volt lamp.\n4.   6 volt Micro phone.\n5.   Sound activated switch, 6 volt \n6.   Tapes electrical.\n7.    cardboard to mount every thing.\n8.    cutting tool to make connections.\n9.    Solder iron and silver solder wire.\n10.   Different types of connectors.\n11.   Glue to put components on the board. \n\nEdmund-scientific.com may have a kit, it is on Internet.\n\nBuy the kit and assemble it.
547440
generally pc work on 18 volts dc not 12 . they actually us e less than 12 volts . but for prop sake and etc . if you can tell the kind of pc you us e i can give you a digram of what to do . dc to dc is not a solution for your problem
545548
You should use pulse width modulation (PWM).  PWM is essentially an on-off sequence in time, like a square wave alternating between 0 and 1.\n\nClearly full voltage will give you maximum speed.  This happens when the voltage is always on.  Now, suppose you only wanted to go half the maximum speed.  You could send a a square wave with 50% duty cycle (on half the time and off half the time) at high enough frequency that the motor will spin at a constant 50% maximum speed.  The motor is like a lowpass filter and therefore, a square wave at high enough frequency will produce a steady response without oscillation.\n\nIf you want the motor to go slower, say, at 25% maximum velocity then send a pulse that is on 25% of the time and off 75% of the time.\n\nIn reality, if you want 25% speed you may have to send something like a 27% duty cycle because of the time delay between commanding 'on' and the system actually turning 'on'.  In this application, though, I don't think you will have this porblem.
207445
You must understand power in = power out.\nSo the P(in) = 200A * 240V = 48000Watts \nTherefore, to obtain 400A out put you will sacrifice the voltage which will = 48000/400 = 120V\nYou need a heavy duty Transformer which will handle the 400A. The wiring size is 500MCM wire. Which is usually bus bar in a cabinet.\n\nTypically 240V 3phase line to line on a delta-wye Xfmr can provide 208V line-line provides 120V line-neutral. (208/sqrt3)\n \nUnless you have a Xfmr to convert, another way would be to use an active inverter, IGBT controlled.
473056
First thing to do: with no power applied, check continuity through the magnetic chuck with an ohm meter.  If there is no continuity between the power leads, there is a broken electrical connection that needs fixing.  There should be no continuity to ground.\n\nSecond thing to do:  check the nameplate electrical rating to make sure you're applying the correct voltage (110VAC, single phase).  If the nameplate requires a different voltage, apply that.  If no nameplate, you might want to check out the Rockwell website (if it is a Rockwell component; I suspect it isn't, probably aftermarket so check out their website).\n\nOne of the things to consider is that while the magnet might be able to operate on AC, the actual electrical current going through the chuck coils may be DC, so you need to rectify the current somehow.  I'd look for some diodes or rectifiers inside the chuck and check those for proper operation - if they failed there would be no magnetic chucking even if you had it plugged into the wall.  Failed diodes will fail the continuity test in step one.\n\nYou probably have to remove the chuck to take it apart; you'd only do this if it failed the continuity check because you'll need to regrind the surface of the chuck after reinstalling to make the chuck surface parallel.\n\nThe other possibility is that external DC current needs to be supplied through some power supply that you don't have; this is where the nameplate comes in handy telling you if you need DC or AC current.\n\nI would think you'd need an electrical current limiting device on the input side to the chuck (like a transformer) rather than running AC from the wall straight into the chuck - too much current would blow the circuit breaker or cause a fire.  Be careful!
613276
The "60 each" part of your question says you don't understand the most basic aspects of electricity.  Voltage is a measurement between two points.  Think of a 12V car battery.  It is 12 volts between the 2 terminals of the battery.  Another analogy:  two things that are 3 feet apart are 3 feet apart, not 1.5 feet each.\n\nDoubling 120 is 240, not 220, but I 220 is a commonly used number, like 110 for 120, but the standard voltages are 120 and 240.\n\nI think the point about doubling when you lose a neutral is talking about what is called a multiwire circuit.  The service into your house is the same, and some appliances like your dryer, have the same thing.  For a single phase case, a multiwire circuit has 2 phase (or hot) conductors and a neutral, with 120 volts between each phase and the neutral and 240 volts between the two phases.  This is created by a secondary winding on the utility transformer that is 240V, with a tap in the center which is grounded.  The tap is half way so it is 120V to each hot conductor.  If the neutral connection is lost, you still have 240V between the hot conductors, and all the 120V things in your house will be put in series.  For example, a couple light fixtures on 2 separate circuit breakers might be on the two opposite phases.  When the neutral is lost to the utility, there is still a connection of the neutral's of the lights, so you'll have the two lights in series and connected to 240V.  Each light will not have 240V though.  If the load on each phase were the same, removing the neutral will still leave 120V on each side.  That isn't likely, so one phase will get more than 120V (and generally cause damage) and the other phase will be less than 120V, and they will add to 240V.  It would be impossible for it to be so unbalanced that one phase would be 240V and the other would be 0.
128991
well, figure that you have 24,000 Kilowatts at your disposal.  Running at 400 Volts.  Power=Current * Voltage.  This is a rough estimate! So roughly 60 amps MAX coming out.  I would refrain from anything that draws more than 40 amps.  Also I would check with the company that made the generator.  You don't want to get crossed into that kind of power.  Believe me.  I've taken hits from a fully charged 50KV capacitor.
436602
Yupp... but unfortunately is a hardcopy on my desk. Perhaps you may straight to tell us what\n\n1. You are designing from HT to Transformer 11kV / 415V\n2. You are designinig from Transformer to LV ??\n3. What is the kVA of the transfomer?
478522
A long time ago I found a voltage regulator for an automotive alternator that would allow output at "line" voltage (for an application similar to yours), but unfortunately I lost the information on the source.  Check at an RV (Recreational Vehicle) dealer in your area for something like this - those folks have information on stuff like that..\n\nA standard automotive alternator isn't built for the sustained high power output you're describing.  You might be able to get a higher capacity unit better suited for your project from a heavy duty truck (or an RV) out of a junkyard and get it rebuilt (complete with the new voltage regulator) for a fraction of the price of a new one.\n\nWarning:  alternators typically output full capacity at frequencies far above 50 or 60 Hertz.  Your power diodes may not work well at higher line frequencies.\n\nAlso, have you checked into getting a gasoline engine powered 120 volt power supply, like what are typically sold for emergencies power outages and campers?  You can find them for a low few hundred dollars for 1000 watts, and would a lot cheaper in the long run than risking trashing car alternators....
56653
odds are, that you would be beter off buying a manufactued device, dc to ac inverters are very complicated and have many different circuits. not only that, but for you to make something that can invert that much power would need an extreme amount of skill to to get the proper components. I would recomend geting a manufactured model from marine purposes perhaps. Some companies should offer custom built electronics.
474107
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=220+volt+,+20Kw+generator&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&sa=X&oi=froogle&ct=title
422015
For a wye-connected machine:\nThe phase voltage (measured between a-b, b-c, or a-c) is (SQRT(3))* the line voltage (a-n, b-n, or c-n). In this case, connect your invertor across a-n, b-n, c-n (this may mean breaking the "common" neutral connection).\n\nFor a delta-connected machine:\nThe phase voltage equals the line voltage. In this case, connect your invertor across a-b, b-c, and a-c.\n\nWhich polarity you choose for the three connections will determine rotation - make sure your resultant rotation matches that on the machine nameplate, or you'll likely burn it up due to insufficient cooling...
213901
I prefer you buying one.  But there are always schematics out there that show you how to create your own inverters.  \n\nhttp://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/inverter.htm
50008
U have the best answer from howstuffworks.com. \nAbout the circuit it’s better buy a cheep hair dryer from the market and disassemble it,  have look at it. For the exact description of the hair dryer and it inner circuit’s values  \nCircuit on the PCB board may also depend on the manufacture also \n\n\nIn general i t contains an AC power code which is attached to a  switch for switching it ON and OFF and also contains a  capacitor and transistors to step down the AC power of 220V or 110 V to the capacity of the motor and the heating coil, so the can be shared by the heating coil in front and the motor placed at the back of hair dryer…
121780
http://www.scitoys.com/scitoys/scitoys/echem/echem3.html#sflatpanel\nHere is a site that uses household type apparatus. simple and says it delivers some current. \n\nhttp://www.solideas.com/solrcell/english.html \nhere is another without household items but you can order the kit on here.