Is the charger attached to the battery anode-anode , cathode-cathode?  Must the charger then apply ever increasing voltages up to a limit to get the battery up to its voltage?  How is the battery chemistry "reset"?   etc, etc
123284
Yes the + and - charger terminals connect to the + and - battery terminals respectively.  The current reversal relative to discharging causes a reverse flow of ions in the battery electrolyte which restores the charged distribution of reactants.  As the battery charges, these distributions approach the end state, so less current can go into further charging.  This means that although the charger voltage may be initially ramped up with time, starting low to prevent overcurrent when the battery is in its most receptive state and rising as battery voltage increases, the "smart" chargers reduce current as charge approaches full and eventually taper it to a "trickle" rate.  (For lead-acid car batteries, trickle rate is roughly the "100-hour" value, meaning a rate that would charge the battery from completely discharged to fully charged in 100 hours). The trickle charge can be maintained for long periods, keeping the battery fully charged while minimizing water loss due to electrolysis.
640939
Dunno for sure but dont be too hasty on blaming the pute. Go to radioshack and invest in a cheap volt meter, put it on dc volts and measure the voltage at the output of the charger....the charger will tell you what it should be for voltage....sounds more like the charger took a dump to me....it may also be the battery.
10318
NiCads in general electronic applications are typically designed to NOT get hot, since the heat destroys the NiCad battery, can damage electronics and causes lawsuits when users get burned from the hot battery.  Some devices like radio-controlled cars are high-drain applications that generate a lot of heat, so the batteries for these devices are designed for their specific use.\n\nBatteries get hot when they charge due to the high current going into them.  The faster they charge, typically the hotter they get.  When the battery discharges during use, the same thing happens, the battery gets hotter as more current is drawn from the battery.  \n\nWithout knowing anything else, my guess is that high current draw from the battery cells is causing them to heat up.  This can be due to a defective battery, a battery not designed for the way you are using it or your modification damaged the battery or is otherwise causing excessive current drain.\n\nAlso, increasing the supply voltage can drive more current through the device, so it may just be that the higher voltage is drawing more current.\n\nI’m not sure how the device is shutting down, so I can’t say why it’s doing that.  Note that the voltage at which a device stops working is the voltage seen by the device itself.  If you remove the battery from the device and measure the voltage, you will get a different voltage than if you measure the voltage at the precise moment the device shuts down.  This is especially true for high current drain applications, which appears to be what’s happening with your batteries. \n\nPlacing the NiCad’s in the freezer won't help.  They’ll have to warm up to work properly anyway.
234498
Something else in the pocket made contact with both terminals, causing the battery to pass current and generating heat.  I did this once by tossing a 9V that I thought was discharged into my pants pocket where I have my office keys.  The keys completed the circuit from the positive to the negative terminals, and I shortly noticed the heat.
209841
ok first of all check your adapter weather its working or not. For this you can use digital or analog A/C D/C meter. If the adater is working fine the next thing is your main battery pack of laptop. Usually all manufactures only give 1 year warranty for battery pack and in some casses battery pack did not work properly due to extensive charging . If it is in warranty then go to your dealer from where you buy the laptop. The third and final diagnoses for this problem is the system board of your laptop. Because sometimes due tp spike of electricity cause damage to the system board of laptop and make it unabel to charge the battery or even start with the adapter pluged in. \n\nSo if your system board is damaged and its not under warranty then I suggest to get a new one dude.
473626
easy,you got to let the charge leak out.when your a car you can take your shoes off and stuff like that but there really is nothing to worry about just because the voltage can range from 10 000 to 20 000 volts it does not necessarily mean its going to harm you, it has a very low current(which does harm in high doses.
277767
(If it's laptop) you just have to charge it. If that doesn't work, replace the charger. If that doesn't work too, replace the battery. If nothing works, buy a new computer.
49569
Its using induction charge principle. Essentially the primary coil side of the transformer is built into the base and the secondary coil is built into the toothbrush. \n\nThe primary winding of the inductive charger transmits charging power to the secondary winding, inside the target device, without making direct electrical or mechanical contact with it. In the target device, power is received with a coil and then rectified by a diode. This DC voltage is used in charging the battery of the device.
210815
Well, NiCd and NiMH batteries can be charged and stop charging at full charge without the help of some device to determine if it's full. Once the NiCd and NiMH is full, the current will just pass through and waste your electricity (and if it's left charging at full charge for extended periods, it can also damage the batteries). So it doesn't actually disconnect the current. Just passes through.\n\nBut in Lithium ion batteries, you need some kind of device to determine if it's fully charged. Cellphones, PDA, and iPods kinds of turn on (like, it shows the charging display, but it's not actually on and in your normal thing) when it's plugged into a current so it can detect if it's fully charged. So basically, the device is the mini-computer that determines the charge of the battery.\n\nSo, to answer your question, don't try to create a circuit that will disconnect the current when a Lithium Ion battery becomes fully charged, unless you have the capability, materials, time, and patience to do it. And steady hands. It's really tricky to build a Lithium Ion Battery charger.\n\nPS Penguins!!!
230651
In order to get 12V, you would need 8 AAA's in series (1.5V per).  Now, how many of those series combinations of batteries needs to be attached in parallel to safely provide the 500A?\n\n-AAA's have a rating of about 1000 mA-hrs = 1 A-hr (see Wikipedia source).\n\n-CCAs is defined as the battery's current draw for 30secs and not fall below a certain voltage (Battery FAQ).\n\nThe bare minimum number of parallel branches would be something like this: (A-hr ratings add in parallel)\n\n(500A)x(30sec/3600)= branches x 1 A-hr\nbranches = 4.17 => 5\n\nBut that would almost drain your battery pack within only 30 seconds, subject each branch to 100A (500amp/5), and probably force the voltage below 12V at some point.  I'm not sure what the safe current rating of AAA batteries is, but likely a little bit below 100A, haha.\n\nI would say well above 5 parallel branches to be re-usable/safe.  Maybe 500 branches would be safe and usable (though impractical).  Then you only have 1A through each branch and could start the engine about 120 times (30secs per start => 3600sec => 1hr).\n\nbatteries = 500 branches x 8 per branch = 4000... yikes
649394
house is AC, lights hooked directly in- AC\nCar battery DC, lights run off battery- DC\nTransformers are AC- AC\nBattery charger run through a rectifier- DC\nElectromagnet (had to look this one up)- either
660910
The site I found in the UK is in the sources below. It appears the modules connect to Cell phones. You do not supply a model designator, but they show an SC-01, SC-02 and SC-03. On the site they show each one connected to a cell phone with a cable that plugs into a round connector. \n\nThis can't be the product you have, but it may be the maker.\n\nMaybe if you contact them, they can help you:\n\nEmail:  info@suncharger.co.uk\n\nSuncharger.co.uk\n170B Graham Road\nLondon\nE8 1BS
494663
It would help if you were more careful in your wording.\n\n"How would one design a snubber circuit for clamping in a flyback converter used as a 250 watt battery charger? The flyback converter switching frequency is 50 KHz and the max duty cycle is 45% on.", is my best guess at what you meant to say.\n\nThere is information on Wikipedia regarding flyback converters:\nhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_converter\n\nI am guessing that the snubber would be a zener diode and resistor in series, connected in parallel to the output terminals.\nRather than calculate the value of these components now, I would like to hear more from you regarding the location of the snubber in your circuit...\n\nHope this helps!
436843
Ok, let's start with the thing it isn't.  It is NOT the battery.  Although that is not to say the battery isn't also bad.  Chances are your A/C Adapter has gone bad and/or the connector inside the laptop(known as the D/C plug) has also gone bad.\n\nYour best bet is to find a local notebook repair shop that can take a look at it and give you a free(or relatively cheap) estimate.  The problem with your description is that there is one major component you've left out...\n\nSoftware.  You'd be surprised, but your o/s could be infected and could actually cause immediate shut-downs.  The question I'd ask is whether or not it shuts down or just IMMEDIATELY shuts off, there is a HUGE difference.  If it shuts down and not off, then it's the o/s and/or software and I HIGHLY recommend taking it into the Geek Squad to have them take a look at it.\n\nIf you have any more information for me I might be able to better evaluate the situation and give you a better answer.  For now, get it looked at by a professional.\n\n-Geek Squad Double Agent...
579225
Depends on the charger.  It will probably pull a constant charge on a timer.  The ones I've seen have something like a 5 hour timer.  If you presume 30 amps to run the charger for 5 hours it would be something like 1.5kwh to charge the battery.  Just a ballpark guess though.  Specs on your charger might give you more accurate info.
569177
The current rating on the battery is higher than the solar cell.  You need to add solar cells in parallel in order to boost you amp load.
631964
You need to hook enough solar panels in series to give a voltage slightly higher than that delivered by the car batteries.   I'll assume that they're 12 volt batteries.   Connect the panels in series until the output is about 12.5 volts.   Connect the ends to the terminals of your battery, checking that the polarity is correct.   When the batteries are partly charged, they'll easily deliver 120 VA for short periods, but unless you've got a very large array of solar panels, you won't get anything like this amount of power from the panels alone when the batteries are flat.   Car batteries are designed to deliver well over 1000VA to the starter motor.   I live in the S of NZ.   Not far from here there's a hut on a sheep station with a system like this that delivers power to a 12 volt lighting system.We probably get much less sunshine than you do in your climate, but last I heard, the system works fine.