I purchased a TT-R125LE.  I am 61 years old.  I am 160 lbs. I am not very strong or brave and I am a beginner. After purchasing a bikeriding instructor says I should have purchased the TT-R230 or 250, mostly because of my height. Would putting different handle bars on the TT-R125 solve the problem?
132192
A tt-r125 is a little kids bike. I am 16 and I ride a yz250f, you might wanna step your game up and get something like that or a yz, rm, kx, cr 125. TT-r's are bikes made for 5th graders. You really dont wanna be a 61 year old on a bike that your grandchildren outgrew.
519684
Vintage Bicycle Discussion Area\nVintage Lightweights\nVINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   1970's Japanese Racer\nPosted by J.T. on 7/30/2004 at  1:12:04 AM \nI bought a race/road bike from a thrift store the other day. It has been repainted and I don't know who made the bike. It is a ten-speed with multiple Sun Tour components. It has a Shimano 333 Stem Shifter and Shimano 27" Wheels. The brakes, handle bars and front derailer are diacompe. There was foam padding on the handle bars but I replaced it with tape. When I removed the padding there were two inscriptions. On the left hand bar there was an ivy wreath. Inside the wreath it says "Japan Champion". On the right hand bar it says "KB". Anyone know wjo made the bike?\nby: 67.5.136.119 \n\n\n--------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nNavigation: \n  oldroads.com \n    Top of Vintage Lightweights Discussion Area \n      First message in this thread \n\n        Replies:\n       RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   1970's Japanese Racer posted by JONathan on 7/30/2004 at 6:14:51 AM \n Not too much to go on. Fins, gills and scales...what kind of fish is it? If you have names for the cranks, wheels (hubs and rims) and freewheel type and make, the field could be narrowed a bit. The higher quality Japanese imports from the '70's were: Fuji; Miyata; Nishiki; Univega (Nishiki); Centurion; Bridgestone; Panasonic; and a host of branded Schwinns. The assumption is US imports. Canada had several others. Sekine comes to mind.\nPost a picture of the frame so the lug work and seat-stays are discernable. This can be matched up with known models for a good guess. The alloy "Champion" bars indicate a good quality bike. There were other quality rides, such as Kobe and Nakamura, etc., but these were fewer, at least from my experiences spotting VLW's. A serial number can be useful as gifferent makes had different number schemes and location on the frame.\nGood luck, JONathan\nNote: Sounds like a great commuter bike; the more generic looking the better, IMHO. Even lousy paint protects against rust. \nby: 67.118.246.240  \n\n       S/N, please posted by John E on 7/30/2004 at 2:34:23 PM \n In addition to more details on components and lug details, please post the serial number. Kawamura, Nishiki's framebuilder, punched S/Ns such as KS78091 (my 1971 American Eagle Semi-Pro) on the bottom of the BB shell. \n\nThe 333 indicates lower-end early 1970s Shimano components. I am guessing your bike weighs about 15kilos=33lbs. A lighter weight would indicate something better and/or newer.\nby: 66.185.168.82  \n\n       RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   1970's Japanese Racer posted by J.T. on 7/30/2004 at 5:28:19 PM \n The crankset has the same KB inscribed on it. The s/n is under the crankset, KS70120\nby: 67.5.140.46  \n\n       RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   1970's Japanese Racer posted by JONathan on 7/30/2004 at 8:05:51 PM \n How about "Kabuki Bridegstone"? I have a Kabuki that is made by Bridegstone. One way to see is to check the lugs for magnetic response. They used Al lugs and thermal bonding, way ahead of the times. I would check mine for serial number, but it is second tier location. Another thing is to look for "integral derailer hanger" and check for forged dropouts. This would make it a keeper, for sure.\nUnless it was a Schwinn "varsity" with its unique construction, the identification of the myriad look-alikes is tough without decals and/or stickers. Unless there is a specific serial number provenance. Have you given it the test ride? The better bikes ride better, so you could then narrow it down to maybe a dozen makes.\nGood luck and happy rides,\nJONathan\nby: 67.118.246.2  \n\n       Nishiki posted by J.T. on 7/30/2004 at 8:21:46 PM \n Doing some of my own research I stumbled upon the Nishiki logo. The square with a stripe through it in the middle of the logo is inscribed next to
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Well, I am a pretty hard core mountain biker and dirt jumper. In that price range you aren't going to find a bike out of the entry level range. Entry level Kona, Trek, Specialized, Jamis bikes are pretty good. The only problem with an entry level is that your rear axle may break if you decide you want to ride a little more hard and down and dirty. Also the fork that entry level bikes come with are shit. They have, like, two inches of travel.\nSo after that, I suggest that when you go to buy the bike, get something like a specialized hardrock or specialized rockhopper or something. They are both mountain bikes, with decent forks, and a strong axle. It can be used on the road as much as you want, and it's not a REALLY heavy bike. Depending on what year model you buy, it's going to be a little over $300, but it's well worth it.\n\nHope I helped!\nLater.\n\nCher.
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What bike you buy depends on what kind of riding you intend to do.\nFull suspension gives you the ability to go over rough, technical terrain faster and also corner better, but they normally weigh more and are more expensive than hardtails.\nWould recommend 26" wheels/tyres because they are the more standard size and will make replacement easier (tubes/tyres etc...).\nPersonally I am a hardtail fan, you have more 'feel', better for jumps, more versatile and less parts to break.
4681
You made an excelent question, and often an overlooked factor when buying a bicycle.\n\nAs a rule of thumb never buy a serious bike at a departament store, always go to a local bike shop, where you will get great advise.\n\nThe most important measures when buying a bike are\n\n1.- Frame size. There should be 1 or 2 inches between your crotch and the top tube. A longer top tube will give you more stability.\n\n2.- Saddle height. Your leg should be slightly bent while sitting on the saddle and the pedal is at the lowest.\n\n3.- Handlebar Height/lenght. Depending on what you want to do, your handle bar could be 1 or 2 inches below the saddle (mostly MTB and race bikes) or even with the saddle ( touring ) - A short stem will gove you better handling.\n\n4.- Saddle. Once again it will be determined by your riding style, you should find the center of gravity for your riding\n\nThere are a lot of internet sites that could help you make a decision, I suggest you read more on the subject and most important, go to a local bike shop where you will get expert advice.
650865
Hey whats up dude im glad to see you stuck with the Haro and  got it, If it has the heavy gauge steel pegs you can lighten up a little bit by takin those off and trying to find lighter ones, You can also try to find an aluminum seatpost to replace the one that came on it but make sure the one on it isnt aluminum already. Haro makes their bikes heavier nowadays but they are well made and once you get to know the bike it will be much easier to manuever. You can look for lighter handlebars as well but if you do, before you buy them make sure to take yours off first and weight them ,or take them with you when you goto get the new ones and with one in each hand determine which pair is heavier.\nI also have Free agent and it is a bit lighter than a couple of my haros but Ive been a haro buyer since 1985 and I'd never ever change the name of my favorite brand...Haro
375115
I don't have a 29er, and I am quite short (5'4") so it is not of much interest to me, however I know A LOT of people who have made the switch.  Shops around here regularly carry and sell 29er tubes and tires.  The only part you might have any trouble with are only about 3 companies make suspension forks for them now, but if you buy a bike already built, it is not an issue.  To get the straight scoop, check out the 29er forum on MTBR.  You can probably get specific info on the Paragon if you want.  I know Gary Fisher (the guy) is a strong advocate of the 29er and rides one himself.
127955
That is a very personal question.  You will need to ask yourself, after riding on a 7100FX do i feel as if I am experiencing upper body soreness?  Do you experience numbness while riding?  Do you experience lower back pain as you ride?  All of these questions could lead to a suspension fork issue.  Words such as bumpy, muddy, and flat are all reponses that require a great deal of context and personal input.  I have been on mountain bike trails that I would not consider "bumpy" but would use a suspension fork.  So the question becomes are you experiencing problems after riding your 7100FX?  If you are, perhaps you should move to the 4500.  Be aware however that the more suspension you add, the increased possibility of performance loss.  No suspension system is perfect and will obviously cause a loss in pedal stroke power when it comes to suspension "bob."  If you are unhappy with both models, you could perhaps look at a cyclocross bike.  Most come without suspension but will dampen some of the bumps via the frame.  Therefore, you need to ask yourself, am i experiencing problems with the current bike I am riding or are these issues fine and do not want to risk the loss of performance.
544665
It is important to note here that wheel size (20" or 24") really has little to do with the size of the bike except in very general terms.\n\nA bike with 20" wheels will accelerate and handle much quicker than a 24" wheeled bike, while a 24" will be more aggressive in adverse conditions (mud, snow, etc) and be better for longer trips.\n\nA 20" wheeled bike has 3 different frame sizes- Junior, Standard, and XL. A 24" wheeled bike has Standard and XL. This refers to the distance between handlebars and seat.\n\nSo, what size? In a 20" wheel, ask for an XL frame. For 24" wheels, get a standard length.\n\nAll this being said, if you go to a department store you will need to compare and find the right length frame which can be a pain but will provide him with the best fit and longest life... but do yourself a favor and visit a local bike shop.
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There are a lot of things to consider first. How old is the bike? What kind of condition is the frame in? How often and what type of riding do you do?\n\nIf the bike is very old you might want to consider getting a new one. Newer bikes have features that you may not have on your bike. For example, more gears, lighter parts, better brakes, etc. Buying a new bike may get you a lot of features that you would not get by having this one fixed. On the other hand, you may not need any of these and your old bike was working just fine until  you started having all these problems.\n\nCheck the frame out for wear or damage. If the frame is steal, which I'm guessing it is based on the price you paid, check for rust especially around the spots were the welds are. If the frame is starting to rust, you would just be throwing you money away by adding new parts to a bad frame. If the frame is aluminum and you do any kind of regular riding, consider getting a new bike if this bike is more than 5 years old. Aluminum has a fatigure limit and the frames generally wear out after about 5 years of regular use.\n\nFinally, if you are just a casual rider and use the bike for fun and just getting around on, you may be able to skip some of the repairs they quoted you and just get enough done to keep the bike moving. However, if you ride a lot or ride off road, you will want your bike to be in the best shape possible. $140 is not a lot to pay for a tune up, including adjusting all the deraillers and cables. Drive train parts wear out over time and need to be replaced. If you get a new bike, considering spending a bit more to get a quality bike that will last a long time. $200 is not a lot to pay for a new bike and investing a little more might get you a much better bike. Not only will it last longer but you will have a better experience riding it.\n\nIf you are really interested in keeping this bike and don't want to pay the bike shop to fix. Most of the repairs can be done at home with a few simple tools. Get a repair manual from your bike shop and you should be able to fix most anything yourself. Just be careful when taking things apart that you remember how to put them back together.
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Both are rubbish.\n\nSave up a little longer and buy a quality bike that you'll enjoy long term. \n\nMost important of all, buy your bike from a good bike shop. It makes a BIG difference, because they'll help you choose the best for your budget and for your intended use of the bike. They'll also give you good advice and they'll look after you into the future (you won't get any of this from Wal-Mart etc).
409135
That's allot of bike and at his weight trying to muscle that around is asking for disaster I ride a 125cc  (I'm 230lbs) and way prefer is because its easy to chuck around I'm thinking that's more what hes into anyways and the 650 is not the bike for that.  My thought on the whole thing is he should do what I did at his age, bust his ass to make some extra money and get what he wants,ultimately he will have allot more respect for it and in the long run he will thank you for making him do it, I know I did my mom refused to buy one or pay for the repairs so I busted my ass working at any construction site that would let me (yes digging goon spooning) and learned how do do my own repairs...hope this helped.
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practice practice practice. my fiance is big into trials. if you want shoot me an email and i know he'll be more than happy to help you get started. the kid was practically born on a bike.\n\njust found a site worth looking into...\n\nhttp://biketrials.com/
549631
get smaller gearing and itll make it harder to pedal a little bit but youll get more speed so yeah or u could just get lighter parts so easier to pedal just make sure everythings tight or ulll get screwed over so yea if u need to know anything else bout bike email me crashnbad@yahoo.com
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Pls do not listen to the above 2 as they are rubbish. I myself am currently riding the KONA Stinky bike, and i am riding size 16" (so coincidential !!) i am 5'7, and the size is a bit too big for me. I tried my friend's kona stinky 15" and it fits me perfectly. So you may wish to consider a 16", since your 5'10. However, if you want more stability, especially when going down fast/in mid-air, you can consider the 16.5". If you need more agility to do hops and stunts, 15.5" would be good\n\n\n\n\n\nto jscottmeans: there is no size 18" for kona stinky. this is not a xc bike.
219212
Use the bike that fits.  I would be inclined to set the pre-load on the suspension fork pretty high to minimize bounce while standing and climbing.  The only other disadvantage is the weight, but fit is definitely more important than weight.
140442
Go to walmart, or dunhams. They have bikes from $60.00 to $350.00. It depends what you are looking for. I think mine was around $150.00. I take it out everyday, and i go off the beaten path alot. It holds up pretty good. I know in a few years i might want to up grade, but for the price, it works for now. especially if you are tight on cash.If you go to walmart, just be careful your tire isn't bent, and check everything before you go out. My brakes were really tight, and i had to do a few adjustments all around. That is the only bitch, but i figure i would have had to do that with any bike. Plus i know my equipment now. good luck!