My friend and I have gotten permission to host a live fire reinactment of WWII. We have been asigned a task that is difficult to complete as I can not find a good scource. I would like to find an accurate list of stats of both German and American weapons. Things such as muzzle velocity and bullet size. For those worried about a "live fire" reinactment, all the weapons will be equally toned down and will use things called IFB(Impact Foam Bullets) Thank you!
126811
well thats a hard job..\n\njust go to this site it has both german american...\nTHIS ONE IS THE AMERICAN WEAPONS\nhttp://www.jodavidsmeyer.com/combat/military/weapons_american.html\nTHIS ONE IS THE GERMAN\nhttp://www.jodavidsmeyer.com/combat/military/weapons2.html\n\nbe careful :) you better be not doing that for the wrong reasons
424929
I've included the links to manuals for both weapons. Good luck!
235903
EDIT:\n\nOk so it looks like your from Australia and not the U.K.  Since no one else seems to be helping you out maybe I can clear some things up for you.\n\nIt sounds like you don't have too much experience with firearms and that's understandable seeing that you come from Australia.  I've read that Austria has some pretty messed up gun laws.  Not quite as bad as the U.K. but pretty close.  Unfortunate but that’s the way it is.  \n\nI'll try to address some of your concerns and give you some answers to your problems without getting too in-depth.  My knowledge comes from my military background and the fact that as I hobby I enjoy collecting and shooting firearms.\n\nFirst let’s look at commercially available body armor.  In America there are six different categories of body armor recognized by the National institute of justice and the military.  I’ll list them verbatim below. \n\nLevel I -  Level I vests protect officers from .22 caliber pistol rounds or long rifle rounds and .38 caliber  rounds.\n \nLevel II A – Protects against all lower levels and 9mm    rounds and 357 magnum rounds and 40 S&W rounds in the lower range.\n\nLevel II - Protects against all lower levels and 9mm rounds and 357 magnum rounds and 40 S&W rounds in the higher range.\n\nLevel III A – Protects against all lower levels and also 9mm rounds with velocities up to 1400 ft/s and .44 caliber rounds and .44 magnum rounds with speeds up to 1400 ft/s.\n\nLevel III- The first vest level that mandates use of a heavy, bulky hard plate with the soft body armor to protect the wearer from rifle rounds.  Soft armor absorbs some of the rifle trauma to minimize injury to the wearer.  This level vest must withstand 6 shot from 7.62 x 51 NATO ball ammo that travels up to 2800 ft/s.  (this is what troops in Iraq are wearing).\n\nLevel IV – Level 4 vests are also hard body armor and are designed to protect it’s wearer from one shot of a high caliber steel core projectile up to 30-06 traveling at 2900 ft/s.\n\n\n So if you buy commercially available body armor you’ll want to get at least level II but hopefully you’ll be able to get Level III A that will basically protect you from almost all pistol rounds and most rounds fired out of submachine guns.  Anything higher then that probably won’t be worth the increase in bulk, weight, and price.  Because from your question it sounds like if you face an armed robber he will most likely be wielding a pistol.\n\nAs for your question about the meaning of FMJ that abbreviation means: full medal jacket.  The two most commonly used kinds of ammunition are full medal jacket (FMJ) and jacketed hollow point (JHP).  From the position of a shooter each has it’s distinct advantages.    \n\nA bullet that is FMJ is composed of a solid lead core usually coated with copper to prevent excessive barrel wear and increase lubrication of the firearm.  Believe it or not when copper is used in stainless steel machinery it acts as a natural lubricant.  The advantage of FMJ in a defensive situation over JHP is penetration.  That is that it goes though things a lot easier.  So for example if you have to shoot someone and they dive for cover, if your bullet is FMJ it is more likely to go though whatever is infront of your target and into that person.  By the same token if someone is wearing inferior body armor a FMJ bullet is more likely to penetrate their body armor and go in deep enough to hit a vital organ.  You can find a picture of a 9mm Full medal jacket bullet here: http://www.cnccartridge.com/9mm115reman.jpg .\n\nA bullet that is made as a Jacketed Hollow Point (JHP) is similarly constructed.  But instead of being solid it is hollow in the middle.  The purpose of this is so that when it goes inside someone’s body it will ‘mushroom’ and expand.  Creating a larger wound channel, promoting more and faster blood loss, and damaging ones internal organs more severely then a FMJ bullet would.  The downside to this
162290
Here is a picture:\n\nhttp://www.texasranger.org/dispatch/4/Graphics/Colt1851Navylg.jpg\n\nI have a brass frame replica of the Navy Colt. You will want one better than mine.\n\nThey are mostly found in .36 caliber, but sometimes in .44. They are not as strong a frame as the Army model, because they dont' have a top strap over the cylinder. If you are interested in the American War Between the States, the Navy Colt is a good one to have. \n\n North American Arms and Dixie Gunworks  have great reputations for replica historic firearms. There are enough links in this page to almost make you an expert in muzzle loaders: http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/shenandoah/Black_Powder.html\n\nIf you are new to shooting, I urge you to take a NRA Pistol Safety Course. I have taught these classes for years and you will have fun and you will be safe! \nhttp://www.nrahq.org/education/training/basictraining.asp\n\nProper care and feeding is too long for this forum, but it will be well covered in the NRA class if you take one. \n\nI presumed that you want a shooter -- if so, you will certainly use a replica. If you are a very serious collector you may end up owning an original. \n\nKeep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction! \n\nLeigh M\nNRA Instructor\nhttp://www.NWSafe.org
231576
Yes, while I do not have a direct link to a source for you... I have been hunting there many times. While never using a Savage Smokeless... I have used many other blackpowder rifles, as well as a smokeless. As there may be zone specific requirements for muzzleloaders, you should check the Arkansas DNR website.
122238
I don't know ezactly what info you want but I hope this helps.\n\nPricing info: check The Blue Book of Gun Values, the Shotgun News, or gunbroker.com\n\nParts or diagrams: gun-parts.com\n\nGeneral info: http://www.taurususa.com/
244543
P90 here i'm thinking of getting M4 carbine and probably a gas  blowback barreta or glock. On the Rocket launcher good luck I heard there were plans for an CO2 powered RL somewhere on the net but i haven't really looked.
535517
The Firing Line or The High Road are good forums for general questions on darn near anything gun related.  Almost any popular brand has its own forum on top of that if you just do a quick search.
511248
I just answered a question about silencers and automatic weapons stating the same thing you just wrote here! There seems to be a lot of uninformed children on this section who seem to think just because they play Xbox they're suddenly a firearms expert.I don;t claim to be an expert by any means, but I would think after over 30 years of shooting experience i would know a little something about firearms and firearms laws. I'll be the 1st to say "In my opinion" instead of stating my opinion as a fact.If these kids on here would do a little research before spouting off their uninformed ignorant opnions about topics they know nothing about, we'd all be much better off.
152961
At that time, the most reliable and accurate rifles were the bolt action where a shell was brought up out of a magazine incorporated inside the rifle. There were many different types of rifles used by the Germans as well as the Brit ts, Canadians and yes even the USA when they entered the fight. The USA used the Springfield 1903-A3; a very reliable and stout piece of equipment. During the war the M-1 was introduced. It was a semi-automatic rifle. It was used all through Korea as well. The bolt action rifle even today is far more rugged and reliable than even the M-16 which gave the military fits for jambing in Viet Nam at first.
371550
Hey, I'd recommend the TL-R. Very solid, very reliable gun. I have one. I went Paintballing with my TL-R it's very conservative on C02 so you won't have to refill for a while, it's very accuarte once you tweek the Hop Up a little bit and get it perfect. Go with the TL-R they're relatively inexpensive and they last a very long time. And If you're looking to spend under 300, I can sell you the TL-R, Redz Paintball Armor, Woodland Camo, Full Head Helmet, 10 oz C02 tank with a Buttstock, a Neck Protector and Gloves for 275. Give me an Email at curnuttematt@yahoo.com if you're interested or if you have AOL instant Messenger, get me at Spartan Airsoft. Consider that, you don't really need anything else after that.
570356
RPGs your allowed to own legally, and if your licensed to, you can legally own plastic grenades, (much waiting involved with the feds on waiting lists.) anything that’s considered a weapon, and can be considered "fully automatic" unless its a car, its illegal in any case.  unless your a secret squirrel for the government, they're going to have a pretty big problem with finding out you even want one.  (but, I don’t really plan on contacting anyone about this question, or any question I read on here, so duh.)  \n\nsilencers innately affect the accuracy of a gun, so a silencer on anything, especially something with a short barrel like that of a pistol, is going to severely affect the accuracy.  you will not find an accurate pistol like the one you speak of, the barrel is just too short to make any bullet accurate.  but if you try your local pawn shop, you'll be sure to find a good ol' regular one.  you can pick up a 50 cal from your local army surplus, however, it will be missing some key components that are pretty hard to reproduce. if anyone does find out that you somehow managed to arm this kind of weapon, they would raid your house just to confiscate it.   \n\nhonestly, I know somebody like you.  he owns like 20 guns.  (none of which are capable of blowing a hole in anything any smaller than a foot wide) even a German pistol from world war 2 with a Nazi sign on it. (its pretty old, but it is a piece of history)  except for he doesn’t have the balls to pull the trigger when he needs to.  its pretty sad.
430995
Bound's hubby here:\n\nCongratulations, you have a US Rifle Model 1917 Enfield, known as a P17, manufactured in Eddystone, Pennsylvania. The 1917 was manufactured in .30-06. \n\nPrior to US entry into World War I, the Eddystone plant was manufacturing the Model 1914 Enfield (a.k.a.: P14) chambered in .303 for the British. This is where Cabhammer is in error. When the U.S. entered the war, U.S. war needs surpassed the commercial ventures to supply Great Britain. As the US was entering WWI, as Cabhammer correctly stated, the US had an insufficient supply of M1903 rifles, manufactured by either Springfield or Rock Island, hence the modification of the P14 to be chambered in .30-06, which made it the P17 (for Pattern 17). \n\nThe 1917 Enfield differs substantially from the M1903 Springfield:\nFirst, the 1917 is bulkier and heavier.\nSecond, the 1917 had a rear sight mounted on the receiver bridge, not forward of the receiver ring.\nThird, the 1917 was a bit more difficult to fire rapidly, because the action cocked on opening, not closing like the Springfield, hence the Springfield is perceived to have a smoother action.\n\nThe Civilian Marksmanship Program had been selling its limited supply of 1917 Enfields for either $350 or $450 (I forget which), and recently sold out. The CMP does not anticipate receiving any other 1917s for resale. The same has happened with the M1903 Springfield, which sold for $450, and sold out this past August. While at Cabelas in Hamburg, Pa. 2 weeks ago, they had a "high serial numbered" Rock Island M1903 selling for $850. I think you could expect your 1917 to have a similar value, for someone wanting a 1917! (Note: Parts for the M1917 have not been as readily available as they have been for the M1903, so appearance and condition may not be as good as you will find on the Springfield's.)
537686
This is the only website (which you may have limited access to) that have a historical.\n\nIt's the most true statistics available except for what you might get from DoD.
226455
check this web site out. http://www.impactguns.com/store/fn_p90.html and cool they are making a civ version. sweet I need to get me one of these.
551381
ww2?? Your question is a little vague.
94721
Go to thejavelinman.com and he has a lot of info about rebuilding javelins and grips.  Everyone I know that needed to get their jav redone went to him.  Hope that helps.