CAN FIGURE OUT THE NORMAL THINGS BUT DON'T KNOW WHAT OR WHERE THE FLAT CONNECTORS GO. NEW MOTHER BOARD REALLY DOESN'T TELL ME WHAT THEY GO TO. I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A DIAGRAM THAT DESCRIBS WHAT EACH WIRE COMING OUT BACK OF THE POWER SUPPLY AND WHAT THEY CONNECT TO.
122576
Current PC power supplies (I'm assuming a desktop or tower style power supply here) have several types of wiring coming out of them. I'll list them with comments. \n\n--Flat 4-pin inline wite plastic connectors, lots of them. These are power connectors for devices like disk drives. Polarized and can't be inserted backwards. Usually 4 multiply colored heavy guage wires to each connector. Not all of these must be connected.\n\n--Large 2 row white plastic connector (about 20 pins) which is the main power conenctor to the motherboard. Also polarized and can't be inserted backwards. 1 of these. Must be connected to the motherboad.\n\n--Small 4-pin connector, perhaps as many as two. Power connector for small drives (like 3.5" floppy drives). Not all need to be connected to drives.\n\n--Up to two additional connectors for the motherboard. One will have 4 pins, and one 6 pins (if memory serves). They are polarized and can't be inserted backwards. These are additional power supply lines for high current motherboard circuits. If present, and the motherboard has matching sockets, they should be connected. If the motherboard has no matching connectors, leave unconnected. If the power supply doesn't have them, and the motherboard does, stop. Carefully consider the total current draw of the various components on the motherboard and attached to it. You might have to (likely will have to) get another power supply to safely satisfy the motherboard's needs.\n\nIt may be useful to know that a great many power supplies don't actually behave very well. It's not easy to design a reliable supply with good perforomance at a reasonable price and in the size constraints within which a standard power supply must fit. A misbehaving power supply can damage your motherboard, the CPU, and everything plugged into it (expensive graphic card, perhaps?). If you've gotten a power supply made by someone you've never heard of, you might want to find a local hobbyist (or perhaps better a HAM radio operator) who can test the supply for you. \n\nPC Power and Cooling have a sterling reputation for the quality and reliabilty of their power supplies. Antec is also well thought of. Neither costs so much as to justify the risk of frying several hundred dollars of CPU, graphics card, motherboard, etc. \n\nSAFETY NOTE: These power supplies have lethal voltages inside. They are NOT safe to open, unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, and even then they're dangerous as all get out. Furthermore, those lethal voltages will still be present for more than a few minutes after power is removed. Also note that many modern ATX and compatible machiens DO NOT turn off the power supply even when the front panel "power switch" is pushed and the computer shuts down. Most of the time they remain in 'warm' mode when apparently "off", and are still operating even when the computer itself isn't. Stay out of power supply innards! The only certain way to be sure the power supply is completely off (though it will remain dangerous for many minutes) is to remove the power cable. Putting it in a drawer, and closing the drawer, before doing anything further is quite sensible.
193401
Sounds to me like the voltage switch if you mean the little red one that looks like the one in this picture:\nhttp://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?lndocid=MIGR-4Y67VN\n\nThat will require a trip to a computer store and likely some new hardware. Possibly just the power supply ($50 or so) but perhaps much more; like the motherboard/CPU and RAM. The PSU probably got more voltage than it should have and the 'magic smoke' that makes it work leaked out.\n\nGood luck.
158741
My first guess would be that you need to upgrade your motherboard/system drivers.  Usually, the best place to find those are the support/downloads section of your manufacturer's website, for your computer's particular model.
191490
I have found that the best way to find out is to just sit down with a flashlight and look at the motherboard.  Where you plug in the LEDs will usually be grouped together, you can just experiment with it and see which configuration works, and which doesn't.  This will not hurt the computer because the LEDs are not like circuits, that can be damaged by wrong polarity, voltage, etc.  So, just plug 'em in until they work.\n\nEdit:  Hey my man, I found the site with the motherboard, apparently it doesn't exist, but this one, I believe is set up the same way, so here is this link to the manual page.  The picture for the Led's is on page 2-17 in the manual.  It tells exactly where to put all of the LEDs and switches.\n\nEdit:  Sorry about the slow response, I went out of town, the address is: http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/download/dld/spt_dld_file_record.php?folder=3&kind=1&name=E6580v1.0.exe\n\n\nPeter
258251
I have this problem when working on motherboards a lot.  Usually, when you first turn the computer on and it's posting, sometimes it will give you a long string of numbers/chars that can help with mobo identification.  If you write this down, then it can help you to identify it.  Also, check your BIOS - a lot of times that will have info that's helpful.  You can do a google search for motherboard identification, and there are some good sites to help with that - one by computercraft, if I recall, has helped me in the past.
665297
Daniel, check your MSI manual, I built my own MSI motherboard system, and with those two pin headers, you can try them one way and try to switch on your system. If it doesn't work, you can reverse the connectors without problem. \n\nIf you lost your MSI manual, you can download it from the MSI website and find it in the PDF version of the manual.\n\nOverall, don't worry, just experiment and see what happens. Just make sure you switch off your system before you change the jumpers -- better yet, unplug your power supply. Good Luck.
626939
When you look at the existing cable in your PC, your see a tail hanging off the existing drive - this is for the new drive.  Before you install it, go to the back of the new drive and set it to slave - its hard to see but its on the drive.  Connect it up and look for another power supply - you might have to format it but it should work fine.
302750
This program will tell you a lot about your motherboard and what it has on it:\n\nhttp://www.download.com/SANDRA-Lite/3000-2086_4-10451861.html?tag=lst-0-1
233255
You get single sided and double sided memory modules. there is the possibility that your motherboard cannot take double sided memory (single sided is more generic). if the memory module has little chips on both sides of the module, then it's double sided. you should install each memory module you have, one at a time, on it's own to check that your computer can 'see' it.   \nAlso, install one module that works into both slots on the motherboard to check that both slots are working. check your bios settings for ram speed, set to 100 not 133
132481
If your power button is bad then yes, you can probably take the button from the old one (if it is the same - not all are).  The old power supply may or may not be the same - you may have an AT supply in one and an ATX in the other.  If the power connectors look the same (the large ones that plug into the mobo) then yes, replace it.  You need not install it into the case first to see if it works, just connect it to the mobo, connect the hard drive and see if it powers up.
651329
most likely the internal power module died. if this module is hooked on the mainboard, you can probably replace it yourself. otherwise if the internal power module is integrated on the mainboard a repair will be pretty costly.
25648
well, friend you need to ask yourself these three simple questions\n\n1) did i set the jumpers correctly?\nmost drives show you how to set thier drives accordingly, some have similar settings, but some have completley different settings, id check this out first buddy, could be the cause.\n\n2) is it on its own cable? \n(if it isnt, is the cable the right way around?) "depending on cable, some have no notch to say which is right way ,  \nRemember red wire on the cable faces toward the power socket for the drive"\n\nand last but not least\n\n3)if its on its own cable, \n\n(3a) is the cable damaged? , if it is, a simple replacement of the cable should fix it.\n\n(3b)is it the right way around? \n(wrong end to mobo and wrong end to drive)\nsimply moving each end in vice versa to above fixes this one.\n\nhope this helps,\ndez
612039
arg a simple check list. \n\nmake sure the cables are in the right direction. \n\nthe side with two connectors close to each other go on the side with the CD drives. the other side goes to the mobo. \n\nsometimes they are color coated. Blue goes to the mobo. gray and black are master/slave\n\nif your confused about jumper settings. set both of them up as "CABLE SELECT" \n\nmake sure both the CD roms have power (i've seen it before dont laugh) \n\nmake sure the cables are firmly connected. \n\n\nBut a picture would be great!
410761
i have fixed those connectors before.\nits not real easy to get to one of those.\none must take everthing off the motherboard, then, pull the motherboard.\nthe connector will need to be reseated and soldered back on.\nputting a laptop back together can be hair raising
389848
your brick is bad. I have a 5160. why did you change the cord not the brick? or if you replace the whole thing then you mobo may be bad. the connection from your plug to your mobo power could lose connection by it simply wearing out.
253163
Motherboard manual here:\nhttp://www.emachineupgraders.info/dir1/motherboards/socket478/imperial_downloads.shtml\n The model came with a 250W power supply\nhttp://store.ramplus.com/atatrebe25at.html
457414
Open the case and read the information on your power supply. Windows wont give you any information about your power supply.