Is it possible to raise the handlebars on a Specialized RockHopper? If so how. My girlfriend just bought a Specialized and she dosent like it because she feels the handlebars so low is unsafe. Can I fix this?
126700
She feels that way because shes lacking balance and confidence. The handlebars on the rockhopper have a 25mm rise, which is more than enough for the intended use of the bike. That bar height will provide more control and stability when riding on mountain trails. You can try Downhill handlebars, they have up to 3 inches of rise but then again i wouldnt recommend that since they are burly, heavy and wide.\nIf she wants safe get her a cruiser or park bike like the one old ladies ride.\n\n\n\nV
225484
If you are truly interested in real mountain biking, go to a reputable bike shop and have them help you with size and fit.  I am an avid MTBr with the best bike for my body size and activity intensity.  It is worth the price and time if you are serious about this sport.\n\nI ride a Specialized Epic Disk and wouldn't trade it in the world.  Do NOT do the Walmart thing.  The components are terrible and the frames are not welded well enough for such an intense sport.  You can get a great bike from $300 on up.  Again, you get what you pay for.  \n\nWould you play football with cheap equipment??
655384
Ok, so "ardi_95" says he's got experience with bikes... although I'm at odds with his ego, I am in his corner here.\n\nPersonanlly I *like* the older bikes and enjoy fixing them up. I wouldn't worry about adding more gears just because that's the trend. If you plan to be a racer, *then* I would worry about more gears and in which case, just buy a new bike. But if you're not a racer, don't worry about what's the latest fad. The important thing is do *you* really like the Nishiki? That is the most important piece -- if the frame fits you, you're comfortable on it and it does what you want, keep it.\n\nIf you decide to sell it, call me first!\n\nAnd since you've asked for qualifications, I will just give a run down of my bike shed...Road Bikes: Trek 400 (mid 80's) Miyata 110 (late 80's), Trek 2300 (late 90's carbon fiber), Bianchi Campione D'Italia (late '80's), Takara (late '70's). Mountain Bikes: Giant ...crap, don't remember (2004), GT LTS Team Issue (2000): Recumbents: BikeE CT (2004), Linear LWB folder (mid 90's). Various BMX, cruiser and other bikes. Anything else feel free to contact me off the list.
551309
well you don't NEED to change out your fork, you can do a few things. If your fork has air assist you can lower your psi, also look into getting new springs and a lighter weight oil. I suggest going to you local bike shop and tell them the problem your dealing with and see what they can do to help you...worst case buy a new fork that can be fully tuned to get the feel your looking for.
275511
I would agree with the bear on this, Full suspension is great for off roading BUT if your only thinking of spending 300 then look for something with front suspension only,\n \nOR look at buying a bike with no suspension, and a set of front forks separately, if you have just got into trail and off road riding then even the most basic rockshox/marzocci/RST forks will suit.\n\nThe reason for this is for 300 you will get a pretty decent rigid bike with quite high spec components and if you speak to the bike shop you are planning to buy the bike from about fitting front forks then they may do you a deal!\nthat way you can guarantee that you will get the right size forks for the bike you choose\n\nThen as you get into the sport you can upgrade your front forks to suit!!
519133
those SRAM are the way to go these days. i had have heard alot of rave about those Sram X.0 carbon derailleurs and its superb shifting action and downshift are just perfect. XTR is just overrated because its has been so long in the market and people dont have much choice. Believer of SRAM. Cheers
182173
It really depends on 'what' type of riding you'll be doing and how much of it.  If you're just planning on being a weekend warrior and just want something decent to ride then you could get away with a lower end bike like the IronHorse Warrior or something like that.  If you're looking at seriously getting into the sport and spending some serious coin, then the options are limitless.  \n\nCheck out this site and sign up to post some questions.  I use it to find all kinds of info and find most people really helpful.  I go there daily to offer my insights or to ask a question.  \n\nwww.mtbr.com and click on the forums link.  Or just go to forums.mtbr.com\n\nThere's a specific forum for 'What bike to buy' and this question has been asked quite a bit.  So if you don't want to sign up to post, then you can just read other responses.\n\nGood luck!
5487
Hard tails are best, unless you are riding on really rough terrain.  It's difficult to suggest a bike if you don't give a price.  But Trek makes a very nice entry level bike for about $400 in its 4300.  Gary Fisher makes some very nice entry level bikes in the $250-$400 range.  And the Specialized Stumpjumper can be had for less than $500.\n\nI'd stay away from anything you found in a deptament store, and instead head right to one or more of your local bike shops.  They can be very helpful in choosing the right bike for your budget.  And they don't sell crap that will fall apart in a year.  :)
148419
Its all about how you feel and how you ride.  If you tend to do more freeriding you want an alpine style setup (positive angle on front binding and 0 or positive angle on your back binding).  If you do more park or street rails you want to go duck footed (positive angle on front binding and negative angle on back binding).  Try differet setups out to see what you like best and remember its all about personal preference and everyone's setup is different.  The more traditional, beginner setup is +15 degrees front, and 0 degrees back.  I myself ride +15 front and -12 back.
44468
What they are setting their bikes on is a trainer.  I have a bike set up on one right next to me.  Trainers vary in price.  You can check several of the online bike stores and find them on sale at this time of year.\n\nIdea is simple.  Put your back wheel in a stand so it is off the ground.  You have a resistance unit that rubs against the tire.  The resistance unit allows you to adjust the amount of the resistance you can make it harder or easier.  The biggest difference between trainer is how the resistance unit acheives its resistance. The more expensive units are generally quieter.  The cheaper units use wind  and are very noisy.
358796
Ok, suspension I can understand at this price but to be totally honest with you if you go for a complete bike at $600 with discs everything else component (and possibly frame) wise is going to be seriously downgraded to get them on there.\n\nMost 'good' (read reliable, reasonable weight and powerfull) brakes and hubs would set you back in the region of $300 - $400 anyway, take that off your budget for the bike and you start to see what you're getting. Yes, they look good and it makes the bike look more expensive but a decent set of V style brakes will be so much more powerful & useful in the long run.\n\nGetting down to it Trek make some excellent bikes for under $600. The frames are going to last and last, the kit on it will be good quality and reliable, the weight will be reasonable and it'll ride really well.\n\nFor approx. $450 you can get the Trek 4300 with (reasonable) discs, ok forks and a good mix of components OR you can spend $10 more and get the 4500 without discs but a much better fork. \n\nYou can't go wrong with a Specialized Hardrock or Rockhopper and they do a number of models based around those frames within your budget.\n\nKona also do some excellent models at around the $600 mark but they are going to ride differently to the Trek, it's going to come down to where you are & what kind of riding there is in your area as to which one works well.\n\nWhatever you decide on you must PLEASE leave enough to buy yourself a good helmet, at least 1 pair of cycling shorts and some gloves. Trust me.
440804
Nice!  I was about to get that for my girl..........but she ended feeling more comfortable on a Specialized Dolce Comp.  Since that is a woman's specific.  Here are two more choices for you.\n\nCannondale Synapse Feminine 3 - $1,499 retail or Cycling magazine reviewed the Cannondale Synapse Feminine Carbon as the best female specific bike - $1,999 retail (I believe)\n\nhttp://www.cannondale.com/bikes/07/cusa/jfw/road/model-7RWA3T.html\n\nSpecialized Dolce Comp - bought my girl's bike for $1,399\n\nhttp://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=07D4WRoad&bikeTab=features
168294
I always wanted a 4 wheeler but couldn't afford one, so I ended up buying a 200x (3 wheeler) instead. Once I had that, I was hooked! It is true that they are 'more dangerous' but they are ALOT of fun as long as you know what your doing! Just remember to lean when you turn...just like a dirtbike, otherwise you can flip easily.
173168
I might get a gift card of some sort or a gift certificate.  One of the important things about a bike is the fit.  You could go to Performance or Bike Nashbar (sister companies) and buy a bike.  Colorado Cyclists is very good.  You could go to a site and buy a bike.  What do you do next?  If the bike fits, you are lucky.  What happens if you need to swap a part to get a better fit?  Very tough.  Since a good fit prevents injury and makes the ride more enjoyable, personally, I would get the card.
340846
haro V4 but u might want to consider the following\n\nu should consider getting companys like haro,kona,norco,specialized,tr... and gt. start with kona, specialized and giant they make good bikes and they are cheap for bikes within the same range. for kona look for stuff, lavadom or scrap\nnorco:shore series\nharo:v series\nspecialized:any thing they are all good and cheap\nironhorse:make almost unbreakable bikes but they are heavy\nbanshee:morphine series\n\n\nbefore buying the bike make sure that the dimonds of the frame should be small and points upwards the tyres should be wide and with lots of rubber studs. the fork should have atleast 100mm of travel better if beond 130mm. the suspention brand that you should look for is marzochii or rock shock they are the most common ones. if you dont like the suspention then you might consider spending an other 500$ on bomber shocks they are good qualityed stuff. i recomand a hard tail because they are easier to ride up hill and gives lots of air. and is cheaper and lighter. you should look for disk breaks but if the bike dont come with them v breaks are good too exept over time they dig into your rim and shorten the rim's life.
340043
first of all, AWSOME BIKE. I have one of those....dont put pegs on it whatever you do or you will break the axle..its a dirt jumping bike, not for freestyle. Expensive upgrades are the lightest...heres the cheapest ways...first, remove the plastic chain guard if it has one, second, get light weight tires, third, get lighter cranks, fourth, get lighter rims or build your own, (i build my own bikes) fifth, remove any reflectors, they are pointless, anything you see on the bike that can be removed and still make the bike work.....i have about $500 worth of upgrades on my 07 X1
641465
check it bro,buy a ridgid frame from paughco mfg[700 dollars]and your ride will be in the weeds.OR get a set of chrome struts,this will ride ROUGH but lower it about 4 inches.Or call white Brothers and get their progressive shocks.[its a lowering kit]