Hi, I'm a male, 290lbs and I've decided to get into shape. One of the best ways is going for cycle rides. What's the best cycle to buy in the under $300/150 UKP price range that's sturdy enough for a large guy? I've tried to ride a friend's cycle and it almost buckled under my weight!\n\nThanks!
134320
As a big guy myself (6'5", 250lbs), I would suggest a solid framed mountain bike with a hard tail (no rear suspension.)  The rear suspension will bounce more and cause you to work harder.  I would recommend a front suspension, if you can find one in your price range, as it will increase the comfort.  Try looking in a discount sports store locally and see what they have to offer.  Your options will be limited by your price point but you may find something.\n\nAfter looking at the options, you might consider heading to a local bike shop to see if they know of anyone selling a pre-owned bike that would fit your needs.  Sometimes they will know of people trying to sell bikes.  They might even be able to put you on something that will work for a good price.
352195
I would suggest getting him a gift certificate.  here's why.  First off, it is height/weight dependant which size board you will get.  If you know his height and weight you can go to the shop and ask them what size and they can give you a range, but then within that range he will have his preference.  Also, it depends what he wants to do on the board when you choose not only the length but also the model because different models are stiffer or looser for different use. For instance, I'm 6' and I ride a 168cm, pretty "stiff" Burton Canyon when I want to just freeride, which means just carving down the hill.  I could go with a little more length if I wanted, maybe 172-174 but I like 168.  When i want to do a day of freestyle - which is where you see the people grinding rails, hitting jumps, doing tricks, etc - then I ride a looser (more "pop" on jumps) 155cm board. Again, for freestyle my length range could be like 153-159, I like 155.  Then there are the bindings to consider, whether you want more response (harder) or a less (softer).  Freeride you want harder and Freestyle softer.  If your husband has size 11+ shoes he might wanna get a wide model board otherwise his toes could drag if the waist of the board is too narrow.  I am size 12 so i have boards which the model is specifically for bigger feet.  Some models come in a wide option.\n\nSo, as you can see it is better for your husband to go into the shop himself and find something.  If he is experienced he will know what he wants.  If he has never ridden or only rented a few times then he should talk to the guy at the shop who will give him a basic beginner-intermediate setup, an all-around board at a length determined from a chart that matches height/weight to a length.  Plus, even if you knew exactly what he needed you might pick something and have it be a perfect fit except he hates the graphic.  Then he has to stare at the graphic he doesnt like every time he's on it and that would definitely suck.\n\noh, and plan on spending ~200-300 for the board, ask the shop person maybe they have some unsold 2006 models that they wanna get rid of since we're in 07 now and those will be cheaper.  But if you also need bindings and boots then plan on spending 500 in the end.\n\nNOTE** In Re Cocolemonjello's answer - Yes, you can take his height and weight and go get a board that *might* be weight/height appropriate for him, or might not.  First off it's much more weight dependent than height.  But moreso than height or weight is PREFERENCE.  If he has never snowboarded before then he doesnt have a preference so you could go by this probably.  If he has, then definitely do not because he has probably determined what he likes. Secondly, yes giving someone a push is a way of seeing whether they ride goofy or regular, but it doesnt matter because the gear is the same either way, the bindings just get mounted facing a different direction for each.  Something Coco does not mention is shoe size - understandable being women don't have this problem, but as a guy with big feet I can tell you that if your husband has a shoe size 11+ his board options will begin to be SEVERELY limited.  So check this before anything.   But again, get a gift cert. or make sure you can at least get a store credit for the full value with a return - no restocking fees.
635135
Dont have any real data, other that ride em and see what suits.\n\nBut specialised have always done MTB's, a vast range, and do great entry-level bikes, ive tried em and theyre good.\n\nClaud Butler used to be traditional touring/road bikes so dont have the same heritage, would guess there's nothing really wrong with them and if you like it go for it. But I would opt for the specialised  - and if anyone from specialised is reading can i have a free/discount one now please :-) \n\nRobert\n\nEnjoy whatever you choose.
396200
freeride bikes, try Kona or Giant ! they have really good choice and they are cheap ! Cheers
439193
There are three which has traditionally competed at this price level, the Specialized Allez, the Trek 1000 and the Giant OCR.  \n\nThe Allez and the Trek are so similar, they have mostly the same components! The big difference is the frame geometry (and so your seating position), and you can only figure out which is right for you by trying them out. Also the Trek has the mounts for a rack which the Allez lacks. Try a branch of Evans Cycles - they stock both. \n\nI decided against the OCR because it has the Campagnolo groupset (rather than Shimano), which I have on another road bike, and I find Shimano more reliable and snappy changing gears. \n\nAs another answerer said, you have a choice of triple or double. If it's your first road bike go for a triple. \n\nI have a Specialized Allez Double and am extremely happy with it. My wife has a Trek and she is extremely happy with that too, and if it was my size I would be very happy on it too :-)
410623
Well, I am a pretty hard core mountain biker and dirt jumper. In that price range you aren't going to find a bike out of the entry level range. Entry level Kona, Trek, Specialized, Jamis bikes are pretty good. The only problem with an entry level is that your rear axle may break if you decide you want to ride a little more hard and down and dirty. Also the fork that entry level bikes come with are shit. They have, like, two inches of travel.\nSo after that, I suggest that when you go to buy the bike, get something like a specialized hardrock or specialized rockhopper or something. They are both mountain bikes, with decent forks, and a strong axle. It can be used on the road as much as you want, and it's not a REALLY heavy bike. Depending on what year model you buy, it's going to be a little over $300, but it's well worth it.\n\nHope I helped!\nLater.\n\nCher.
346708
Are you still growing?  \n\nI'm 5'4" and have long since stopped growing.  I've ridden many road bikes and the one that fits me the best is a size small Giant.\n\nIf the Denali is your the only bike that you're looking at, I'd recommend going with the small.  Even you're still growing, the handlebars and stem can be adjusted with you for the next 4-5 inches of height.\n\nIf you're growing fast, it won't be the end of the world to get the larger frame.  Back when I thought I still had room to grow, I rode about that size (57cm) and it wasn't too bad.  I just never grew into it.  \n\nAlso - if you are still growing be sure to drink milk and get good amounts of protein.
192399
Good for you! I love bike riding,but still you need some weight bearing exercise, for building bone mass and muscle...here is a great website, i get a lot of good ideas and tips from..\nwww.shape.com\nfrom the mag.\ncheers!
599846
I personally would stay away from Bicycle dealers if your looking for a recumbent, bike dealers tend not to know how to set you up on a bent. Bacchetta makes a Caf'e that runs $995 and the Agio at  $1250 and if you want the Giro 26 runs $1550. For the purpose of commuting the Caf'e or Agio would work real well. Check out there site http://www.bacchettabikes.com/ \nBurley, Rans, and EZ also makes several bents in that  price range,\n\nRic
123508
Though Trek has some great bikes, I would highly discourage you from purchasing a bike with a combo material frame like this especially if you are in an area where you see a lot of rain and/or snow. The reason being is that if the bike is not taken care of the aluminum will oxidize at that junction and disrupt the quality of the frame. If you are looking for you first bike, I would go with a steel frame from Bianchi! They may be a little heavier than some racing frames, but they are comfortable and tend to absorb more shock than an aluminum frame. If you decide to spend some extra cash and go carbon I highly recommend going with Trek. I raced some of their OCLV frames on a couple of teams and I loved the bikes! FYI- I am currently riding Titanium and wouldn't ride anything else.
321003
A hybrid or a mountain bike.\n\nChoose a hybrid if you want comfort and efficiency first, and the toughness and durability to manage tracks second. The hybrid will not be able to go everywhere that a mountain bike does.\n\nChoose a mountain bike if you're willing to trade on road efficiency for the ability to go anywhere. A mountain bike is not so good for commuting and city-based recreational riding (that said, modern MTBs can be pretty good all rounders and you can always buy a second set of wheels - one lot with city tyres and a set of knobblies for the weekend).\n\nHybrids are sometimes merely mountain bikes with slimmer, tyres. Avoid these, because the frame geometry is wrong for street use. Go to a good dealer and try out genuine hybrids from manufacturers like Cannondale, Specialised and Trek. \n\nWhether you go for a hybrid or an MTB, buy the best you can afford from a well known bikemaker and a good, high end shop. Go for the best componentry you can afford (gears and brakes) because cheap components go wrong or work badly and this will put you off cycling.\n\nI recommend you go for good front suspension, but avoid rear suspension - for your requirement it is pointless, adds weight, goes wrong, reduces ride quality and adds price.\n\nCycling is great sport, great recreation and great transport. Enjoy it!
564077
It all depends on how much you are willing to spend.  All bicycle manufacturers have a good downhill version.  Willing to spend more, you can go to a Downhill Specific bicycle manufacturer.\n\nJust make sure it has good suspension and that the travel works for you. \n\nBest all depends on whatt part of the country you are in or it can even vary by city.\n\nI travel and rent bicycles.  Some towns are all about Trek and other Giant and others Specialized.  etc etc.\n\nGive more specifics and more help can be given.  \n\nHow much do you weight?\nBeginner, sport, or expert?\ntype of terrain in your area?\nand many many more???
568666
FOR UNDER $300... that's a tall order. I guess, get to be buddies with someone who has a bike they can sell you used. That's still cutting it awful close. You could do it on a regular road racing bike, again, you'll have to go used and don't expect STI or Campagnolo Ergo (brake levers that have shifters built in). But with a regular road bike it'd be more likely than with a Tri-specific bike.\n\nIf you're handy with a wrench you might be able to build one up for that amount, maybe even an old Trek 2100 or 2300 with downtube shifters. \n\nFactor in the cost of bike shoes and pedals as well - this will eat up alomst $200 if you go inexpensive but still decent. If you just want to do the course, and not expect to be competitive, it's doable for a little less.
12284
if you are planing to go off road, i just purchased a giant trance 3 and i love it, full suspention, disc brakes, twenty-seven speed, aluminum frame it weighs about 26lbs, and i payed around $1300, extremely happy with this purchase. \nI recommend talking to your local bike dealer and getting sized for a bike to fit you and your needs, don't just buy one from wal-mart, because when you shop at a dealer they will give you mantainance packages and they can help you better
641273
Get thee to a bike shop.  Get fitted.  Ride safe!
508135
Well being 5'2 you need to be on a shorter frame not neccisarily wheel size.  You will grow into it.  Plus with it being your starter bike so to speak it is going to take a good bit of abuse so talk to your local bike shop and they can fit you up with somthing good.  There arnt to many bikes in that price range that are really decent and most bikes in that range tend to be about the same quality so also look into a DK even.  Also invest in a helmet!
558153
ok, no one has really addressed your needs here, just thiers.  long distance riding, not RACING, requiers a bike with a few things road bikes lack.  when you hear "road bike" read it as "racing bike", because thats what they are designed for.  road bikes have \nstiff frames for acceleration, light weight for the same reason, flimsy wheels, same reason, and aerodynamic riding positions, same reason.  they also have narrow saddles, and a gear range that is too high, or hard, for normal guy long distance riding.\ntouring bikes on the other hand, have a much wider range of usable gears, including a series of extra low gears for steep extended hills, higher handlebars for less back and neck and hand and wrist strain, wider saddles for better sit bone support, \nmore compliant frames for a nicer ride, more powerful brakes for stopping under load, and more durable wheels, not to mention fatter tires, which makes the ride more comfortable.  road bikes cant take fat tires or fenders, rendering them useless in the rain, gravel, dirt, ect.  fat tires protect the rims from pot holes, and general road debris.  steel is generally accepted as the ideal touring bike frame material.  people say steel is heavy, but well made steel bikes are within a quarter pound of an aluminum bike, and will survive wrecks much better.  good steel bikes last a lifetime.  aluminum lasts a decade.  long story short, a good touring bike will be a lifetime investment, wearas a road racing bike is a fragil object at best, suited for fast paced riding over smooth roads in ideal weather.  \na decent touring bike can be had for 1300, custom complete, made to measure.  if a shop tries to talk you into a road racing bike, its cause thats all they know, and all they have to sell.  \ntouring bikes arnt money makers, they last too long, and cost too much to build.  800 dollars buys you nothing, not even a bad cheap road bike.  think of it as an investment.  road bikes, if your lucky, last 10 years.  thats if you never crash... they will never carry loads well, never handle predictably under load, and are prone to mechanical failure..