I currently have a 2 yr old MS 802.11b wireless router, WEP enabled with 1 notebook and 2 desktops connected wirelessly. I typically get 30-40% slower internet download speeds than the speed I get from any of the pc's hardconnected to the cable modem. I noticed that when a pc is hardconnected to the router, again I get considerably slower speeds than if it was connected directly to the modem. Thanks! PS: I understand the g standard is primarily for network transfers between pc's but I wonder if it could also benefit internet speeds.
135970
No, not at all, at least as long as you're getting 18Mbps speeds out of your wireless B. If you're getting slower than that, I would recommend you check into Mimo Wireles G.  It will give you the same speeds on the third floor that you get while in the same room. They come in both 54Mb and 108Mb versions.\n\nI actually get the same speeds upstairs on this computer that I get downstairs from the computer that's plugged directly into the wired router (I have both a wired and a wireless router).  I do have a new MIMO wireless router, though.
295617
Note sure how you tested the speed, but you should first use a connection speed test program (many out there, for example http://reviews.cnet.com/7004-7254_7-0.html). Your BB provider may also have a test program. \n\nIf it looks like the speed is still slow afer testing, there is little you can do on your computer (download accelerators do not help w/ large files, just web pages), and you need to call your BB provider to see if the line to your house might be noise (in which case they will automatically throttle the speed), or you are too far away from the CO (which limits the maximum speed of your connection)
112996
There's a piece of the puzzle missing... do you have dial-up? Broadband?\n\nIf you have broadband and you're getting poor results on only one of the computers, your router might have a control to set the priority from one port to another.  Check the port settings to see that they're appropriate.
124214
If you are just looking for 802.11b you should be able to get one pretty cheap.  If you want to put a new wireless card in your laptop later that is capabable of 802.11g, then you may want to get a router with both b/g compatibility.  You'll also want to see what type of encryption it has like WEP, WPA, etc.  You'll will want secure your wireless connection with the highest level of encryption possible.  Also, don't forget to change the default password for the router.
424134
The capacity of 802.11(a,b, or g) systems is limited by two main factors; 1) The capacity of the DHCP Server and router and 2) the available bandwidth of the radio interface.\n\nThe typical residential wireless router has a built-in DHCP server to automatically assign wireless (and wired) users an IP address.  Residential DHCP servers usually max out at 256 users.  Enterprise wireless networks use dedicated DHCP servers capable of handling 1000s of users.\n\nThe next limitation is the radio link.  As you know, 802.11g supports link rates up to 54 Mbs.  54 Mbs is achievable only under the best conditions, meaning no other access points or users on the same channel in the area to generate noise.  \n\nAs users are added, the maximum rate available to each user is lowered accordingly, until the number of users are generating more noise than usable signal and effectively jam the access point.\n\nAnother factor in radio capacity is called Near-Far affect.  This occurs when one user has acquired service at a great distance with no interference.  Then a second user, located much nearer to the access point, acquires service and the Near users strong signal over powers the Far users weak signal, effectively jamming the Far users and reducing the access point capacity.
501666
THIMK!\n\nNo ISP has a "1 to 1" connection to the internet.  They use some formula to figure out an "average".   This results in slower transmissions when more are using it.  The same is true of the internet itself!
49499
You can connect a wireless router to a DSL modem in order to accomplish this.  I've used a Netgear router successfully for this that I purchased for a steal on ebay.  If you go this route, decide between 802.11b and 802.11g by weighing cost against desired speed.  802.11b routers are cheaper and offer the same distance, but a limited speed output.  802.11g routers are a new technology and are more expensive but offer a faster connection speed to your modem, and consequently to the internet.\n\nAnother alternative if you've been a loyal customer of a service like Verizon DSL for a year or more is to ask them for one of their upgraded combo modem/routers that they've been handing out to new customers for the past year.  My father successfully accomplished this by calling and mentioning that he was growing more interested in switching to a cable internet service because of speed limitations.  They seem pretty prone to throwing technology at a potential lost customer in attempts to appease them.
14906
You internet connection isn't going down but only the ability of your wireless devices to access the internet. Once you enable encryption on your router you then need to configure you laptop/pc's wireless connection to match the ssid and wep key. Once that is done then your connection should work just fine. Wep isn't the best security but it is a start. If you are going to use it then I would use 128bit and disable broadcast ssid. \n\nAs for configuring your laptop/pc it depends on if you are using an application or depending on windows to control the wireless card. An external card could be using an application. If it is an internal built in card then more than likely it is being controlled by windows. You can go to your network connections and verify. If so then there is an option to configure your wep settings.
374232
well 11mbps is still faster than your Internet. If you get a new router that is 54mbps or 108mbps is is useless unless you want to share data from computer to computer.
660681
Linksys is a pretty good router and I love my Dlink 624 which is 108 Mbps wireless G router (the wireless routers have ports for lan cables as well so don't worry). Normally I stay away from Dlink products and other routers, but this model appears to be the only really awesome product they make. So unless you can find the 624, don't go with Dlink. I have not seen much netgear, so I can't tell you for sure how good it is.\n\nAll routers these days come with password protection and for those who are using wireless they often come with a secondary password for protecting wireless transmissions. It is known as a WEP password which encrypts your wireless.\n\nTo access the router, you usually login to it through a web browser to the routers default IP address and configure the router. That screen will allow you to open ports and permit certain types of traffic to go through to your network.\n\nSo in short, Dlink 624 awesome, Linksys in general is good, netgear unknown, and rest of Dlink bad.\n\nHope this helps!
337990
My strong recommendation is don't unless you have a really, really good reason, eg people move desks frequently, or they're out on the road.  You're money will go further and bring you better benefits upgrading the switches and nics on your existing network to 1000Mbps.\n\nIf you really have to, then 802.11g is the way to go.  Almost any off the shelf access point will do.  You probably don't need two of them unless your office is really long and thin (even then you should get away with one).\n\nFrom the sound of it your main problem is likely to be bandwidth.  802.11g will give you 54Mbps (probably about half your current network speed) shared between all the systems on the network.  However, some (I think it's DLink, possibly Belkin) manufacturers have tweaked the protocol a little and can get 100Mbps+ out of these.  For that though you would need to standardise the office on that manufacturer's kit (or it will just drop back to the regular 54Mbps).\n\nThe actual kit you'll need:\nWireless Access Point (preferably wall mountable - get it nice and high.\nFor each desktop:  1x PCI Wifi card\nFor each laptop:   1x PCMCIA Wifi card or USB adapter\n\nYou could also use a USB adapter for all the PCs & Laptops on you network, but (and this is purely an untested personal opinion) I prefer the look of the aerials on the PCI cards for better connections.\n\nThe other thing to do is make sure that there are no 802.11b devices in your laptops (or make certain that they're turned off).  Most 802.11g access points will drop their speed if they discover a b device and 11mbps just takes too long for internal transfer imho.
49087
it depends on what type of internet connection you want. dial-up, broadband or wireless. For dial-up you need an analog modem, for broadband a LAN network card and for wireless a WLAN card 54Mbit (802.11g) or 11Mbit (802.11b).\nWhile dial-up and LAN cards are available as (E)ISA (Industry Standard Architecture) and PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) the WLAN cards are only available as PCI. In case you want a wireless card, check if W95 will support it (i think W95 don't support it, with W98 it's no problem). One important thing to consider - Computers of that age have a PCI 2.0 compliant bus, but newer PCI cards are either 2.1 or 2.2 compliant and there is no backward compatibility.\nNow assure what type of slots are free and then you can decide what type of connection you can/will install.
553569
maybe if you got also a 10/100 faster switch to add to your router it might boost the speed enough....i have a linksys router and have not noticed much of a drop in speed
27343
I'm assuming you don't have a router or any special connectectivity - maybe just a basic home-type internet connection ...\n\nIf you're using Windows XP, there are tools & wizards for internet connection sharing.  Basically, they create setup files that you run on each client computer to tell them to got through the one with internet connection.  Search for 'internet connection sharing' in your computer's help or on microsoft.com.\n\nIf you're not using XP, it could be pretty tricky to get all the settings coordinated - I'd suggest searching in the help/web site for your operating system.\n\n(Incidentally, it's not necessarily smooth & easy, even with XP's tools - I've had some trouble in the past.)
114901
Cable is generally but not always faster. Cable users share the medium so overloaded segments can get pretty slow. DSL is dedicated between the user and dslam so other nearby users do not heavily impact the speed.\nAs far as using a router for connecting multiple pc's, it can slow you down but I doubt you will notice it unless both pc's are trying to download bif files at the same time.
298812
IEEE 802.11g dictates that a wireless g router oppertating at 2.4 ghz will trasmit to ranges of 300 meters (approxiamtely 100 feet). However, normal enviromental conditions can cause this distance to change. usually, for the worse. Besides before you do this, think about both the ethical, and legal consquences related to what you are thinkin bout doing, also, the person on the other side of that connection might have enough knowlegde to hack your computer.
301808
I am in the beginning stage of this battle as well.  Four months ago, I upgraded from basic to pro, only to find that my download speed has not increased.  Upload has increased approximately 15-20% to 410Kbps.  I've contacted AT&T Yahoo, only to be given the script trouble-shooting answers such as, "Clear Cookies, Delete Files and History.  Allow all Cookies, turn off Internet Security" and turn 360 degrees, reboot your machine, reload OS, and chant a Christmas Jingle.  I have not quite gotten the rewire the house telephone lines or rework the plumbing request, but I'm sure that'll be the next one.  They've refutted my theory that it could possibly be the three-year old SpeedStream 5360 DSL router that's causing the bottle-neck, since 3.0Gbps wasn't even a techie's wet-dream when the router was designed....  Sorry that I don't have an answer for ya' - just wanted to let you know that you're not alone on this one.