this is regarding furnaces and boilers
131911
Recuperator is a heat exchanger which helps to boost the efficiency of gas turbine engines on those air is compressed, burned with fuel, and used to drive a turbine. \n\nAnd you know what is generator now just differentiate it
188790
Fire is a chemical reaction between Oxygen+Heat+Fuel
238010
See at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newcomen_steam_engine
556513
Not all smoke is full of harmful emmissions. At the CDC for example, they will burn diseases in a keln, and you will see some of the thickest black smoke you've ever seen come out of the stack, but the smoke is completely harmless. The heat is required to completely kill the diseases after they finish their research.
125421
http://www.alkaseltzer.com/home/default.htm\nTry this.
255454
Simultaneous combustion!
395652
It means "Burns selling of the power plants"
286183
What type of oil fired plant are you refering to steam boiler/turbine or combustion turbine used in either the simple cycle or combined cycle mode. For a steam cycle, and without considering the practicality, one can add feedwater heaters, replace the turbine or install more efficient internals, increase steam pressure/temperature, better burners, more efficient motors, install variable speed drives on the bigger fan (forced draft, induced draft) motors, better insulation.\n\nNot sure how to do this.\n\nSome additional thoughts.\n\n>How clean do you keep the condenser?\n>Ditto for FW heaters. Do you calculate LMTD for the heaters?\n>Do your operators maintain all the parameters, e.g., SH temperature that affect heat rate? Do they have a HR parameter display, HR goals?\n>How clean is your turbine? When was it last opened? Washed?\n>Have you tested for seal leakage HP to IP?\n>Don't know your mode of operation, i.e., base, peaking, but do you use full arc or partial arc admission?\n>If your a peaker, and assuming you're not a UP, have you looked at variable pressure operation?\n>Peaking or cycling - have you optimized your start ups? Do you bottle up the boiler?\n>How clean is the boiler, especially, SH and RH passes?\nAdded:\n>GE and W used to offer high efficiency L-0 blades. How old is your unit? Do you have these blades installed?\n>Have you looked for hard particle erosion on your nozzle block and 1st stage blades?\n>Do you chemically clean the boiler? Do you have chordal thermocouples installed?\n>What condition is your air preheater in?
430941
Plumbing and HVAC (heating,ventilating and air conditioning) are totally different trades. You could have gotten more answers in the home and garden section. Check the link below.
98455
It sounds like you probably have an on-demand heater instead of a tank heater.  On-demand heaters are used in most parts of the world other than the US where tank heaters are more common.  The basic reason is that on-demand heaters are more expensive up front, but more efficient at using energy, and Americans like to be cheapskates in the short term, even if it's wasteful in the long run.  This "penny wise, pound foolish" attitude is very common here. \n\nIn the case of an on demand heater, there's a mass flow controller that regulates the flow of water once the burner manifold is on, so that water of an even heat is provided.  If the burner manifold is undersized for the demand, in terms of flow rate and temperature, placed on it, the drop in pressure as the heater comes on can be dramatic.  There are also various problems you can have in the regulation system of an MFC based on-demand heater that can case it to click on, restrict pressure, and then drop the flow rate below that needed to trigger the minimum conditions for heater operation, which shuts off the heater.  These weird behaviours can even be the result of poor installation, such as incorrect sizing for the demand, improper flow rate to the heater, and even back pressure in the flue pipe.  So, the plumbing system needs to be better planned for an on-demand heater to operate correctly.
621817
I suspect you may have to install seperate systems and in respect of central heating you would have to have isolation valves to allow transfer from pressurised to gravity fed system - it would be complx but technically acheivable - I currently run two seperate heating systems in a now combined house (formerly two) and have considered this.\n heating of mains pressure water via wood stove boiler and or solar would be difficult and therefore a gravity fed system would be required.\nThorough planning and installation of switching options is required
370102
I am a HVAC trainer and troubleshooter working in the Southern New England area.  Furnaceman Technologies provides technical support and training services to several HVAC wholesalers in this area, and we offer similar support services to wholesalers throughout the USA.  \n\nWe are ready to start offering an 8 Month training program that covers most of the fundamental theoretical HVAC subject matter that you would need in this trade.  The training is almost 100% theory, and we only accept people who are working in HVAC related trades (plumbing, electrical, and heating/cooling), as their day job represents the best lab experience possible.  The fee for the entire course will probably be in the neighborhood of $3500.00.  \n\nThe one year schools that offer this information, along with limited lab time, often charge in the $16,000 - $23,00 range … so our program is only a fraction of what they charge.  Our classes meet twice a week for four hours each, and there are a total of 50 classes to this program.  If you are interested, take a look at www.furnaceman.com .... go to the middle of the page and click on "Fast Track" Eight Month Program.  You will see outlines of the five courses that make up this program.  Again, this is theory, and students will want to come to class alert and ready to participate.  We present this information using state of the art electronic media, we offer web site information on the subjects being covered, and we work real hard to get the student to thoroughly understand the material.  \n\nI'm thinking this is an exceptional deal in that we don't promote any brand of equipment, and this is not a sales pitch, just solid theory for this exciting trade.  Please realize, this is fundamental theory, and taking this program does not make you a “seasoned technician”.  But having this information will place you in a position where you will be solving problems while other self proclaimed “technicians” are only scratching their heads .  In many ways, you will be ahead of the majority of the established technicians in this field as they don’t really understand the theory of why things happen.  Too many self proclaimed technicians are really only parts changers, and trial and error mechanics.  Few, self proclaimed “technicians” have the theoretical base to understand why things are not working correctly, thus they really don’t know how to troubleshoot and correct problems.  \n\nWe promote the following phrase: Once you understand the theoretical "why", the mechanical "how" becomes easy.  \n\nIf you decide to enter this trade, please study you butt off, and continue study as you will never know it all.  We need highly trained technicians in this trade, we don’t need any more “hacknicians”.
525074
The first method would be to compare you utility bills to see if there is a drastic change (or any) between last year at this time and the most recent bill with the insulation on.  \n\nFor an exact calculation, you need the following:\n\nThe R value of the insulation\nLength of pipe insulated\nTemperature of the water inside the pipe\n\nThen plug them into this equation:\n\nQ=UA(Tinside - Toutside)\nwhere Q is the amout of Btus \nU is the thermal insulation (or lack there of) expressed as =1/R\nTinside = water temperature\nToutside = air temperature (average) where the pipe is installed\nA = the surface area of the pipe\n\nOnce you get that for the insulation, do it once with out the insulation.  For the second R value without the insulation, use a R-value of 0.5.  The two different Q's you get will be the amount of Btu's you saved.  \n\nTo convert that to $, you need to convert the Btu's (Q) to kW.  Divide the Btu's by 3.412 to get watts.  That will be the amount watts you saved at your hot water heater/boiler or whatever is heating the water (assuming it is electric).  You then look at your electric bill to determine the cost $/W or $/kWh.  Take the number you got for watts and convert to kilo Watts by dividing by 1000.  Then multiply it by the cost off of you utility bill for $/kWh.  \n\nThis is all for a one hour period.  You need to calculate that for a month, day, or year (720, 24, 8765 hours respectively).  You now have what your savings for this project was.
642206
Incomplete combustion of any material.
170479
you can get a cool mist humidifier.  If the area really needs moisture they will not leave the area damp. That is reason for them.  usually you only need them in the winter. If your furnace is still on you can just place bowls of water on the registers
299252
http://www.thermo.ae/thermo/default.htm
591325
Maybe this site will help you...I would have said the hearth but you said it is not that area. Try this