44 Spl. 5 Shooter on a S&W K - Frame 3" Barrel?
967970
It sounds like you have a model  21 S & W,  check on the side of the frame, or open the cyclinder, or on the butt of the handle. Nice hardware if it is !!!
898737
I lucked out Alice.  I found a nice leather holster for my .38-40/.40S&W Ruger 'old' Vaquero 4 n 5/8" barrel at the gun show.  Try a gun show or a web-site for the Triple K Holster Company or El Paso Saddlery.\n\nGood luck.\n\nH
665498
I don't know if you are considering buying a S&W, but consider this:\n\nTHEY KNUCKLED UNDER AND KISSED THE ASS OF THE ANTI-GUN LOBBY!!\n\n I want a gun mfgr who will stand up for me. When they did that I destroyed the two I owned and will never buy another S&W.
638429
i got a simmons 3x9x40 on my 10/22.  it works pretty good.  i think it was about 50 bucks, the leupold rings were about 20.
20546
Probably a Remington 700 in .308 Win. Can be had at your local Wally world for around 400. Winchester Model 70s are good too as are others.
811252
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYour VSS should be a very accurate rifle. I have read a number of articles over the years about how high powered rifles could be shot with cast loads to shave the shooting costs. It was not until I started casting my own handgun bullets (especially for magnum rounds) and bullets for my BPCR loads, that I fully understood the dynamics of cast bullet shooting. \n\nWhen I shoot my 700 Varmint for 1000 yard matches, my 175 gr. Sierra MatchKing trucks along at about 2550 fps. Your cast bullet should move along no faster than about 1100 fps if the bullet is not hard cast and not wearing a gas check. If the bullet is hard cast and wearing a gas check, you might be able to push the velocity to about 1600 fps. Do not even expect the cast bullet to be on paper with the same sight settings as your jacketed loads ... just isn't going to happen! Expect your cast loads to be good for about 50 ft of accuracy (to 50 ft in distance, not 50 ft. groups!). \n\nOne thing I would do is to check your bore ... if it looks like the barrel turned to silver, and there is not noticeable rifling, you have filled the rifling with lead and need to remove it! This would be because the bullets were not hard cast, and were too soft! A very long and tedious task! If this is the case, you have saved no money with your practice rounds!\n\nFor the rare occassions when I get to practice with my Varmint/Target rifle, I load up surplus 147 grain FMJBT bullets. As you know, the bullet is the largest expense in reloads. You can get the 147s real cheap (make sure they have lead cores, not steel cores).
804011
Ruger's customer support is top-notch. \nThey will either stock parts themselves or be able to tell you where they distributed their spares.\nI wonder if they will replace the "PC"4 with something a little less "PC" now that the assault rifle ban has expired?\nMaybe something that will take a Sten magazine.....\nHey, I'd buy one!
885258
Yeah, but I wouldn't worry too much. \n\nWithout the pistol what's the worry about having ammo that also happens to fit a pistol?  It's having the pistol that's the real issue. Right?\n\nAlso .22 rim-fire is very low power, not that I want to be shot at by it! :)
833139
I started shooting IDPA matches with a .45 GLOCK 36.  It was a miserable gun, jamming every 20-30 rounds.  A buddy had one as well, and his was similar.  I traded it in for a GLOCK 19 and absolutely love it.  I put about 2-3,000 rounds through it without cleaning it (!) before I had my first jam (leaning around a wall one handed, so it was maybe just limpwristing).  I love it, but it is a bit large for carry.  I'm looking to get a S&W 642 or Taurus 851 to try out.  I like shooting 1911s, but they're big and most seem to be a little finicky-- not what I want in a carry weapon.
1121602
My friend, in my opinion, you have one of the finest .44 magnum revolvers ever made. The 329PD was designed to be the strongest and lightest weight .44 mag. revolver on the planet. With a titanium cylinder and the scandium alloy frame, which by the way has a strength to weight advantage of 70% over steel, it is safe to shoot any weight or  type of round you want. But like any gun, if you give it a continuous diet of hot ammo, it will loosen up sooner or later.\nShooting a .44 mag. 320gr.HC bullet @ 1175fps, you must be doing some serious handgun hunting!\nSo, go ahead and fire away. Have fun and be safe!!!
29311
definatly, I think you will be a lot better off with a gun that you know and trust, and in my opinion I would trust the model  70 over any other gun out there, the most important thing is shot placement. If you can hit the vitals a .270 will do the job just fine.
1005325
I started clay bird and skeet shooting 12 years ago and have competed at a national level. I started using a side by side 12 gauge. I have used other but find a side by side a lot easier to shoot with and still use one. Get yourself a custom made stock with a monte carlo style( raised where you rest your cheek). If you start using a standard stock tape a bit of cardboard to see if monte carlo is your style.
74787
The most popular guns for skeet are over-and-under 12ga shotguns.  You only get two shots, anyway.  The action of pump and semiauto shotguns make them 6-8 inches longer, so they don't swing as quickly.  Those actions also add weight.\n\nShooting with two barrels isn't really a problem.  Most O/U shotguns have a switch to choose which barrel fires first.  Almost everyone chooses the lower barrel first because the axis of the barrel is more in line with where the stock meets the shoulder.  This means less rise and a quicker follow up shot.
927851
First of all, length of the barrel has little to do with accuracy. It's more about the quality and consistency of the bore, and the size and quality of the balls. It also has some to do with the consistency of your gun, but there isn't much you can do to change that except for an expansion chamber or the use of an HPA tank with regulator.\n\nIf the ball is too small or too big for your barrel, it has a low chance of shooting straight. If the paint has dimples or bumps in it, or a broken ball in the bag or the barrel, it will also shoot poorly.\n\nNext time you play, try some other people's paint in your barrel. If you put it in, it should have 2-3 points of contact with the barrel and you should be able to blow the ball through it with ease.\n\nIf most of the balls in the sample you test have these attributes, that's a good kind of paint to use. Paint can still be inconsistent from box to box so don't expect ideal results every time.\n\nAlso, unless you plan on sticking your barrel through thick brush or need to push into airball bunkers, you wont get much of a performance benefit from a 16 inch barrel.\n\nSome more things:\n\nRusty is sadly mistaken on a few things in his post.\n\n\nFirst, you have to see what kind of threads the barrel you want to buy has. A barrel that will fit a 98 custom will not fit your Orion. It will not fit the A-5 either. You cannot get a flatline for your gun unless it is modified from the original. You can, however, get a BT Apex barrel. It is a straight barrel but has a part on the tip that adds adjustable backspin. If I could suggest any good, cheap barrel to you, it would be any Lapco barrel in your price range. They rarely disappoint.\n\nI'm pretty sure VL guns can take spyder threaded barrels but I could be wrong. Make sure that someone else's spyder barrel can screw into the gun no problem. Do not force anything.\n\n\nAs for the pros. They don't all use Boomsticks. Heck, I don't think any pro team uses them anymore. They mostly use the barrels that came with their guns, because manufacturers' "best" guns usually come with the best barrels they make.\n\nAnd Dye certainly does not make the best barrels on the market. That trophy would have to go Glenn Palmer.
842515
Check www.gunbroker.com to see what they sell for. It sounds good to me. I had one a few years back, ate buckshot and birdshot with no problems. I think I still have a pistol grip and heat sheild that I never put on it. It was stolen with my vehicle, sad to say and never replaced it.
194131
As long as you don't shorten up the barrel you should be fine
744520
Bound's hubby here:\n\nDuck hunting can be very demanding, and once you try it, you may decide it is not for you. For this reason alone, I would strongly suggest you get an inexpensive, quality shotgun. You definitely want the back-up third shot, which means you want either a pump or a semi-auto. Semi-auto's can provide reliable and accurate follow-up shots, but can be finicky.\n\nI am very fond of the Remington line, especially since Winchester Model 12s and Model 97s are wearing out! My suggestion would be a Remington Model 870. I prefer the higher level "Wingmaster", but for a starter gun, you would be well served by getting the 870 Express. \n\nThe 870 Express is a quality shotgun with an aluminum alloy receiver and a phosphate (parkerized) finish that will hold up to duck hunting conditions. The stock is a "hardwood", so any dents, dings, or scratches that find their way on the stocks will not elicit too many tears! You can get an 870 Express for between $230 and $330.\n\nThe 870 Wingmaster is a higher end shotgun, with a machined steel receiver and "blued" finish. The Model 870 was first introduced in the 1950s ... one of its major selling points is the twin bars on the pump action, they reduce twisting and binding, providing more reliable functioning of the shotgun. An 870 Wingmaster will set you back between $550 and $1200+, depending on the grade you purchase. \n\nPesonally, I would take a Remington anyday over a Mossberg ... no offense to those that like the Mossberg, but I have found quality is not synonymous with their name or product!\n\nGood luck!