I want to sling  my Winchester 30-03, but I don't want to drill a hole in the stock. Any alternatives?
968406
the forend should be done with the clamp type that attaches to the magazine tube\nthe butt eend can be set up with a band type that loops around the stock with no drilling needed
152564
Check out www.cheaperthandirt.com - they have plenty of clips, chokes, pretty much anything you'd want for your Mossberg.
693101
Looking to purchase?  There is a great website on all sorts of mounts and scope equipment. Dont recall the name. I found it as a link from Dixie Gun Works Website.  Hope this helps.
892608
Yes. I suggest a "scout" type mount that places the scope way forward on the barrel. However,with this setup you need to use a long eye relief or handgun type scope but it works great.
898737
I lucked out Alice.  I found a nice leather holster for my .38-40/.40S&W Ruger 'old' Vaquero 4 n 5/8" barrel at the gun show.  Try a gun show or a web-site for the Triple K Holster Company or El Paso Saddlery.\n\nGood luck.\n\nH
787385
Bound's hubby here:\n\nWell ... its like this ... the only way you will find a Winchester Model 70 "Stealth" is on a used gunrack ... Winchester (as American hunters and shooters know it) closed its doors in March of this year, and the Model 70, along with the Model 94, have been discontinued from production. In talking to a representative from Browning (a sibling company of US Repeating Arms, both owned by Fabrique Nationale ... who decided to close Winchester) I was told that the future or the Model 70 (re-introduction) is very uncertain ... none can be made for 2 years, and anything beyond that is pure speculation.\n\nNow, comparing the rifles. I am not prejudiced ... I would love to get a Model 70 Stealth ... it is the closest thing to a Model 70T to come out of Winchester in almost 30 years! My shooting partner has one, I like it! The Model 70 Stealth is a very good varmint rifle. It can be built up as a long range rifle ... but it would require a high comb "marksman" style stock, micrometer adjustable metallic (front & rear) target sights and bases, and an appropriate long range scope base with a target scope of your choice for NRA long range competition. These add-ons will cost about $2000 over the cost of the Model 70 Stealth ... if you do all of the labor! The comb on the factory stock is usually too low for comfort when shooting a "long range type rifle scope", and you WILL become fatigued holding and cranning your neck in the course of a 20+ shot course of fire for 30 minutes (a single stage of fire).\n\nThe Remington 700 PSS is in the same general category as the Model 70 Stealth, but you are throwing away more money than you need to. The Model 700 PSS is a police package counter-sniper rifle, that is basically a Model 700 Varmint rifle gone cop. You would be better served purchasing a Remington 700 VLS in .308 Winchester. You would have to make the same modifications listed above for the Model 70 Stealth. By the way, Remington Customer Service and Support is great. I have not heard of, or experienced any problems with their rifles. I did have a rifle problem with my 700 Varmint about 10 years ago (5 years after I bought the rifle) and Remington took care of it very favorably! I would not hesitate to go with a Remington!\n\nAs an aside, a little about the game you wish to enter, and a more affordable way to enter it, if I may. \n\nNRA Long Range involves prone shooting of bulls-eye targets at now, 800, 900, and 1000 yards. There are two "Divisions" of rifles here: Division A (which I believe is Service Rifle) and Division B (which I believe is Match Rifle), or vice versa. \n\nAll Long Range "Service Rifle" matches are fired with either the M16/AR15 (don't wet your pants laughing), the M1 Garand, or the M14/M1A rifle, IRON SIGHTS only!\n\nAll Long Range "Match Rifle" matches are fired in 2 parts ... metallic sights (iron sights only) and any sights (rifle scopes permitted). \n\nThe most important add-on piece of equipment a shooter needs in his kit for Long Range is a VERY GOOD spotting scope, such as the KOWA or LEICA scopes ... expect to pay at least $500 for the scope, plus the eye-piece and the scope stand! \n\nTo be well equipped and kinda competitive, you will drop about $4000 in equipment (for Match Rifle). If you were going to shoot Service Rifle, you can get into it a lot less expensively! You have two options: an M1 Garand or an M1A.\n\nIf you go M1 Garand, you can get an M1 Garand from the CMP for about $500. Send your rifle out for a National Match barrel, National Match sights, a new stock, trigger job and glass bedding, and this will set you back maybe $1000 above the rifle. The benefit of the Garand is the .30-06 chambering, which will give you more "umphh" at the thousand yard line. \n\nIf you go for the M1A,  you can get a M1A National Match for just over $2100, ready to go in .308. \n\nNOW ... no matter whether you go Mat
102947
Nobody at a pawn shop would know the first thing about crimping a .223 round. If your bullet has a cannelure (groove around the bearing surface), then load the bullet so just the very top part of the cannelure is sticking out of the shell and crimp the round. Hands-down, the best crimping die out there for cannelured bullets is the Lee Factory Crimp Die. You can find it at any of the links below.\n\nIf you're not using a cannelured bullet, then there is no crimp. You'll be relying solely on neck tension to keep the bullet in position. If you're shooting these out of a bolt gun that's not a problem. If you're bumping them against an AR-15 feed ramp, you could have a problem. Measure the length of the loaded round, chamber one from th emagazine, then eject that round and measure again. If the bullet has moved, switch to cannelured bullets and crimp them. If the bullet didn't move, blast away!
842515
Check www.gunbroker.com to see what they sell for. It sounds good to me. I had one a few years back, ate buckshot and birdshot with no problems. I think I still have a pistol grip and heat sheild that I never put on it. It was stolen with my vehicle, sad to say and never replaced it.
1178961
Wow, you have quite  a collection! My humble cashe contains A M38 Swedish Mauser, A Iver Johnson made M-1 Carbine & a FEG made Hi Power clone. I wish I had the $$$ to buy more stuff. I've got a wish list that includes a 1897 Winchester Trench, A Semi- Auto Ohio ordinace made 1918BAR copy, and a Fn FAL. Your right about expanding the shooting section beyond hunting also.
372452
First you must be prepared to spend a considerable amount of money to have a custom rifle stock made from scratch.\n\nOr..\n\n There are many outlets for semi inletted stocks for your rifle at a nominal cost and you can finish the final fit with a little patience and some basic woodworking tools.\n\nThe other option of course is to purchase a used stock either on eBay or www.e-gunparts.com
709999
Surefire's are amazing.  The entry level is worth every penny ($33) the others I am not so sure about.  I have seen SF mounts with light for $250 and I know I could fabricate something for much less.    Do you have a rail that you can mount to?  If not, you need to solve that first.  The second problem should be elementary, finding or fabricating a mount with an appropriately sized opening for the light should be pretty easy.
959877
Is it new? \nBolt actions require some breaking in and ideal lubrication to operate smoothly. It's a mechanical device and really doesn't work at its best until all the parts have a little wear on them. My favorite actions are what some would consider a little 'sloppy'.  \n\nPlease pardon me putting in my two cents here, but you should have found out about this problem at least a month ago on the practice range while you were getting yourself ready for the hunt. \n\nWith all the effort and time and money you invested into putting  yourself within range of that old buck, not getting off that second shot cost you a bundle not to mention the missed opportunity. \n\nPreparation makes a good hunt. Check everything and walk thru your plan over and over again, with an eye on SAFETY and SUCCESS. \n\nA good gunsmith can smooth out that action for you and make it feel great. You can find ways to do this yourself. If it's new, put a couple of hundred rounds through it on the range, it will smooth up real nice.
354491
get a tippmann 98 custom.  it it tourny grade right out of the box a,d you can customize it like heck and still have it ending up costing as much as one of theose autocockers.  i have one and ive got a flatline and a stock on it and i get superb performance out of that and the whole thing cost me around 250 after stock and barrel were added on.  the gun itself comes with a kit and costs around 170.  also they just came out with a loading system that is the same as the a5 so now its able to load the balls faster.  it is also a great gun because you can bang it against stuff and you wont break it in any way.  thats the one i recommend
472355
An electric screwdriver or drill with an adjustable torque limit has worked well for me in similar situations. The screw tends to go in straighter than by hand and the torque limit prevents stripping out the plastic hole.\n\nWK
949332
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, let's take the Army principle, very infantry proof, if it isn't broken, don't take it apart! That being said...\n\nThere are two ways to take a firing pin apart. Both, eventually, require taking your 14 apart. The first way requires the use of a Garand combination chamber cleaning tool (an M-10 tool may also work, but I've never used one). \n\nInsert the chamber brush into the chamber, \nhave the "arm" pointed at 3:00, \nclose the bolt on the chamber brush, \nas you rotate the arm counterclockwise the back of the chamber brush base will catch on the extractor, \nleave the bolt closed and lift the extractor out of the bolt [if a long pin does not appear, you broke the extractor], \nslowly pull the bolt back, you will have a small ball bearing and spring plus the ejector and spring [both under pressure] that will come out of the bolt face, \nremove the op rod from the bolt, \ntake the receiver out of the stock, \ntake the bolt out of the guide rails, \nthen you can slide the firing pin out of the bolt.\n\nTo put your rifle back together just reverse the above steps. \n\nThe other way is a little more expensive. Fulton Armory has a handy-dandy bolt tool for the M1/M14. It sells for about $45. \nYou take the bolt out of your rifle,\nput the bolt in the bolt tool,\ncompress the lever on the tool like a nutcracker,\ntake out the extractor,\nease the pressure on the arm, \ncatch the detente pin and spring (the ball bearing),\nremove the ejector and spring, \nremove the bolt from the tool,\nslide the firing pin out.\n\nAgain, to put it back together just reverse the steps.\n\nPlease, do not tell us that you are deployed and this is your issue battle weapon! If it is it sounds like the "Army way".\n\nJust a tip when you sight in your rifle... do not rest the bullseye on the post like a lollipop. Put the sight post in the middle of the bullseye. This will increase the chance of hitting your target everytime. If the bullet hits where you plant the front sight, no matter what is going on wherever you put the front sight you will hit what you are aiming at (provided you have the right distance dialed in). \n\nGood luck and good hunting.
876877
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI would strongly suggest that you try Brownells. Brownells is the Home Depot/Lowe's for gunsmiths. If they don't have it or they can't find it, it's either not worth the price to buy (too cheap) or it doesn't exist. \n\nGood luck.
789358
I thought this would be easy. It was not.  First contact your local gunstore. Then watch these websites: gunsamerica.com auctionarms.com  gunbroker.com.  That gun looks like alot of fun. I can see why someone would want one.  Good luck I've given up looking for particular guns before.