Wanna buy a sport bike..But which one..?
970258
Get a Colnago, Look, or Orbea Orca frame and hang Campagnolo all over it.\n\nUnless you prefer to go fat and get into a Turner 5spot, Ellsworth Id, or Yeti ARC and have fun in the dirt.\n\nPlan on spending about $3,000 or more if you want to be really cool, and remember that this is not the section about motorcycling.
792177
Well, I am a pretty hard core mountain biker and dirt jumper. In that price range you aren't going to find a bike out of the entry level range. Entry level Kona, Trek, Specialized, Jamis bikes are pretty good. The only problem with an entry level is that your rear axle may break if you decide you want to ride a little more hard and down and dirty. Also the fork that entry level bikes come with are shit. They have, like, two inches of travel.\nSo after that, I suggest that when you go to buy the bike, get something like a specialized hardrock or specialized rockhopper or something. They are both mountain bikes, with decent forks, and a strong axle. It can be used on the road as much as you want, and it's not a REALLY heavy bike. Depending on what year model you buy, it's going to be a little over $300, but it's well worth it.\n\nHope I helped!\nLater.\n\nCher.
780141
I think Glamour is within that range, and with Hero Honda you need not worry about reliability. Then there is of course Pulsar. I myself have a Star City( only Rs.39000 ), so I dunno much about costly bikes.
865992
they are realy the same, buy the x1, it is more upgradeable, dont pay extra money for a bike almost the same, the x2 weighs a litle less, not even noticably less really.
244276
motocross bikes are pretty expensive. i'd suggest getting them off ebay. if you don't have a motocross track where you live, you can change out the tires. \n        + a good thing is you don't need a license.
650516
Hi,\n\nI assume that you are trying to decide whether to purchase a hybrid or a mountain bike. The answer depends on your riding style and the intended use for the bike. If you plan to ride the bike within city limits (along the path close to the river, to school, to the coffee shop, etc.), then go for the hybrid.\n\nIf you plan to take the bike on gravel roads and maybe some dirt trails the wider tires and suspension will make the experience much more comfortable and safe - you should go for the mountain bike. \n\nUltimately visit a local bike shop. They will be able to provide the most help. And stay away from big box stores (Walmart, Costco, etc.).\n\nHappy riding,\n\nCarlos\n\nPS: don´t forget to ride with a helmet!\n\nhttp://www.lava-tours.com
619448
I'm not sure of the list price, but you could pick up a used one for under $1500.\n\nThese are a fun, fun bike to ride.
450830
Yes, several manufacturers make such motorcycles, they are called duel sport bikes.  Check your local bike shop.
1151545
Ok, so "ardi_95" says he's got experience with bikes... although I'm at odds with his ego, I am in his corner here.\n\nPersonanlly I *like* the older bikes and enjoy fixing them up. I wouldn't worry about adding more gears just because that's the trend. If you plan to be a racer, *then* I would worry about more gears and in which case, just buy a new bike. But if you're not a racer, don't worry about what's the latest fad. The important thing is do *you* really like the Nishiki? That is the most important piece -- if the frame fits you, you're comfortable on it and it does what you want, keep it.\n\nIf you decide to sell it, call me first!\n\nAnd since you've asked for qualifications, I will just give a run down of my bike shed...Road Bikes: Trek 400 (mid 80's) Miyata 110 (late 80's), Trek 2300 (late 90's carbon fiber), Bianchi Campione D'Italia (late '80's), Takara (late '70's). Mountain Bikes: Giant ...crap, don't remember (2004), GT LTS Team Issue (2000): Recumbents: BikeE CT (2004), Linear LWB folder (mid 90's). Various BMX, cruiser and other bikes. Anything else feel free to contact me off the list.
517534
I dont know a whole lot about dirt bikes, but there was an article on consumerreports.com that said the following. Hope it helps!\n\nBikes\nWhether you plan to hit the road or the trail, you'll get more bike for your buck than ever before.\n\nIf you're planning to buy a bike, chances are your new ride will have an aluminum frame, even if the bike costs less than $500. It might even have disc brakes or 27 gears. These features, once found only on more expensive bikes, bring the benefits of lighter weight, better braking in sloppy conditions, and more efficient pedaling to cyclists with a modest budget.\n\nHigher-priced bikes are getting better, too. The best of the $1,000-and-up models in our most recent tests had the shock absorption and handling previously found only on bikes costing two or three times as much.\n\nWhichever bike you choose, there's good reason to buy it from one of the nation's 5,300 bike shops, rather than from a department store or toy store. And you don't have to spend a fortune. We found fine choices for pavement rides that cost less than $300 and very good bikes for off-road cycling for $440. The bikes for serious trail riding cost $1,000 or more.\n\n\nWHAT'S AVAILABLE\n\nBrands include Bianchi, Cannondale, Diamondback, Fuji, Gary Fisher, Giant, GT, Iron Horse, Jamis, Klein, Landrider, LeMond, Mongoose, Raleigh, Schwinn, Specialized, and Trek.\n\nFull-suspension mountain bikes. These bikes are best for rough terrain with steep slopes. You'll get a shock-absorbing suspension fork and rear-suspension frame, which provide the best control and comfort on the roughest terrain. Most have 27 speeds and 26-inch wheels. All have wide, knobby tires; narrow or moderate-width saddle; and flat or riser handlebars.\n\nPrince range: $1,000 to more than $4,000.\n\nFront-suspension mountain bikes. These bikes are best for less-rugged off-road trails. You'll get a shock-absorbing suspension fork and rigid frame, fine for tamer trails. These bikes need less maintenance and are more efficient on smooth terrain than full suspension mountain bikes. Most have 24 or 27 speeds; 26-inch wheels; wide, knobby tires; narrow or moderately wide saddle; and flat or riser handlebars.\n\nPrice range: $400 to more than $2,000.\n\nHybrid bikes. These bikes are best for moderate-speed riding on pavement and smooth dirt paths. A cross between comfort and road bikes, most hybrids have a shock-absorbing suspension fork and seatpost; 24 speeds; 700C wheels (a designation from the French system, indicating size and width; it's about 27-inch); midwidth, fairly smooth tires; moderately wide saddle; and riser handlebars.\n\nPrice range: $400 to more than $500.\n\nComfort bikes. These bikes are best for casual cycling on pavement and smooth dirt paths. Most comfort bikes have a shock-absorbing suspension fork and seatpost; 21 speeds; 26-inch wheels; wide, relatively smooth tires; wide saddle; and riser handlebars. Generally have most upright riding position, which casual riders often find most comfortable.\n\nPrice range: $250 to more than $400.\n\nRoad bikes. These bikes are best for fast and/or long distance rides on pavement. Most have a lightweight frame with no suspension; 18 to 30 speeds; 700C wheels (about 27-inch); narrow, smooth tires; narrow saddle; and drop handlebars. The bent-over riding position reduces wind resistance at higher speeds, while the narrower seat facilitates pedaling.\n\nPrice range: $500 to more than $3,000.\n\n\nIMPORTANT FEATURES\n\nBrakes. Long-arm cantilever brakes (V-brakes or linear-pull brakes) are fine for most uses. For rough, sloppy terrain, go with disc brakes, which will spare your wheel rims from the abrasion of muddy braking. Some bikes are sold with your choice of brakes. Discs add $100 or more. You can retrofit some bikes with discs; ask at the bike shop.\n\nHandlebars. High-rise handlebars let you sit fairly upright. With low-rise and flat handlebars, you lean forward.
722444
Ok, suspension I can understand at this price but to be totally honest with you if you go for a complete bike at $600 with discs everything else component (and possibly frame) wise is going to be seriously downgraded to get them on there.\n\nMost 'good' (read reliable, reasonable weight and powerfull) brakes and hubs would set you back in the region of $300 - $400 anyway, take that off your budget for the bike and you start to see what you're getting. Yes, they look good and it makes the bike look more expensive but a decent set of V style brakes will be so much more powerful & useful in the long run.\n\nGetting down to it Trek make some excellent bikes for under $600. The frames are going to last and last, the kit on it will be good quality and reliable, the weight will be reasonable and it'll ride really well.\n\nFor approx. $450 you can get the Trek 4300 with (reasonable) discs, ok forks and a good mix of components OR you can spend $10 more and get the 4500 without discs but a much better fork. \n\nYou can't go wrong with a Specialized Hardrock or Rockhopper and they do a number of models based around those frames within your budget.\n\nKona also do some excellent models at around the $600 mark but they are going to ride differently to the Trek, it's going to come down to where you are & what kind of riding there is in your area as to which one works well.\n\nWhatever you decide on you must PLEASE leave enough to buy yourself a good helmet, at least 1 pair of cycling shorts and some gloves. Trust me.
672406
If you are talking sport bikes, it would probably still be the suzuki hayabusa 1300R. Unfortunately most of the nuts that own these monsters don't feel that they are fast enough, so they turbo charge them... The results... 8 second 1/4 mile times at over 160 MPH. Its pretty sick to watch.
412550
Try to stretch your budget a little and take a look at the Cannondale range. For your money you get one of the best built frames in the World - comfortable, strong and built from the ground up for women. The componentry is usually superior pound-for-pound too. A Cannondale is a quality bargain that will last you for years and be a pleasure to ride.\n\nThe current 'Street' and 'Vintage' ranges are brilliant.
691082
Go for another hardtail unless you're seriously into downhill or bouncing over the really rough stuff (like tree trunks).\n\nIf like most of us, you ride road and trails most of the time then a hardtail is just fine. Its lighter, tighter, there'll be no maintenance and set up problems, its more comfortable overall (no funny bounces and shimmies) and best of all, it delivers more of your precious energy direct to the wheels - so you go further for longer and you can climb easier.\n\nI've used both and gone back to hardtail (albeit a good frame with excellent front forks).\n\nThe steering suspenders are the most important - get the best front forks you can afford.\n\nForget all that mechanical baggage at the back - you don't need it!
1133409
First off, you want to consider your short term and long term capabilities.  Do you plan on getting good in a short amount of time and needing an upgrade?  Do you plan on using it for a rec tool and have no plans on advancing?  If you plan on advancing in the future, get a bike that has some room to grow, but not too much in terms of high-end parts.  You can get a good bike for a medium budget that will be ideal for beginner to intermediate riders.  Ebay is a great place to find slightly used bikes due to many people feeling the need to upgrade bikes every year or two.  Look for a Trek, Cannondale, Gary Fisher, Specialized with LX components and you won't pay more than 400-500 dollars for a low mileage bike.  Good luck!
663029
A hybrid or a mountain bike.\n\nChoose a hybrid if you want comfort and efficiency first, and the toughness and durability to manage tracks second. The hybrid will not be able to go everywhere that a mountain bike does.\n\nChoose a mountain bike if you're willing to trade on road efficiency for the ability to go anywhere. A mountain bike is not so good for commuting and city-based recreational riding (that said, modern MTBs can be pretty good all rounders and you can always buy a second set of wheels - one lot with city tyres and a set of knobblies for the weekend).\n\nHybrids are sometimes merely mountain bikes with slimmer, tyres. Avoid these, because the frame geometry is wrong for street use. Go to a good dealer and try out genuine hybrids from manufacturers like Cannondale, Specialised and Trek. \n\nWhether you go for a hybrid or an MTB, buy the best you can afford from a well known bikemaker and a good, high end shop. Go for the best componentry you can afford (gears and brakes) because cheap components go wrong or work badly and this will put you off cycling.\n\nI recommend you go for good front suspension, but avoid rear suspension - for your requirement it is pointless, adds weight, goes wrong, reduces ride quality and adds price.\n\nCycling is great sport, great recreation and great transport. Enjoy it!
978688
Well I work at a place where we sell Specialized, so I'm biased a little. But ride all 4, in the same day, checking for the same things on every bike. The thing about bicycles is that the components that make the biggest ride difference(drivetrain, brakes, suspension, ect.) are made by somebody else and they are availible with whatever brand you want, the difference lies in frame geometry and materials. Everyone is different, everyone rides different. So figure out which bikes are in your price range, pick a sunny saturday or sunday and go bike shopping. Pick whatever feels best. Most brands/bike shops will offer a lifetime warranty on the frame, if they don't consider going somewhere else, and if you keep your bike tuned, regardless of brand, the parts will last a really long time(unless you ride real hard but that doesn't happen to too many hybrids).\n\nDon't forget wear a helmet, it'll could save your life. Ride on