how good are rock shox tora forks and is 100mm enough?
962238
The Tora is basically RS's answer to zocchi's MX series. They're at the bottom of RS's worth-buying range. \n\nThey've got very good internals, which are quite sophisticated. The downside is that, to keep it cheap, they've got steel stanchions (in general, so will any cheaper fork with shiny upper legs) so they're heavier than similarly priced forks. They got rave reviews, though. Since SRAM bought out RS, their durability's gone through the roof, as has the overall quality.\n\n100mm is essentially the 'standard' length for XC riding, so it should be enough. What kind of riding do you do?\nPretty much every bike designed with sus in mind in the £300-£500 price bracket will be designed for a 100mm fork. Which bike's it going on?
778289
Yes the strait cable is the best choice on a racing bike.  A gyro will actually make the brakes much weaker especially if you have a v-brake.  Strait cables are the best choice for racing because they allow direct pull giving you the most powerful stop possible.  Unless you have disc brakes which are pointless and hendering on a bmx bike.
547225
You can put the thin smooth tires on your mountain bike.  Almost all tire manufactures make some type of slick for all mountain bikes.  It's a lot cheaper than buying another bike just because you like the tires.\n\nAnd don't let the thick rims fool you.  Clenchers are clenchers and you can put just about any width tire on them.\n\nI pasted two links below of slick mountain bike tires from Performance.  Like I said, any bike shop will have 'em or they can get 'em for you.  Or you can just order online.\n\nI've had the ritchey's before.  Lot's of tread and they last a long time for the money.  \n\nGood luck!\n\nHappy tire swapping!
431990
Assuming your Lemond has a 1" quilled stem, I recently did a similar conversion myself.\n\nObviously, you'll need the following:\n\nCarbon fork with 1 inch threadless steerer.\n1" threadless stem, or 1 1/8th" threadless stem with a shim\n1" threadless headset\n\nYou may be able to get away with using your old handlebar, but it might be a good time to look into a replacement.\n\nSince threaded forks and quilled stems are so rare now, and the conversion to threadless is so easy, there's no reason not to do it.
970170
yes they are good but you have to get the right brand for abec-7 get lucky berings or if you are rich get bones swiss ceramics they are like $89 but they are the best berings ever if you want good cheap bearings grt bones reds thats what i use they are like $12-$20 and are fast once you break them in.
194995
Any /decent hardware store should be able to help you out.  The nuts and bolt shoud just be standard metric fastners.  Many times you have to buy them from the "specialty" fasterners stocked in the small drawers or boxes found in the hardware Department.  Just take some matching bolts or nuts in with you to help you get the right parts.
364788
if its a good mountain bike fork it sould have oil in the housing of the legs if not i have put T9 on my fork and it hasnt done anything but helped
9342
A large portion of the time choosing a road bike comes down simply to preference.  There are so many good bikes these day's, it truly comes down to the buyers opinion.  It all depends on the material frame you want, components, etc.  For me, I like stiff, small, I like aluminum, I use and prefer 38mm bars, and ultegra because it is cheap and easier to replace when I crash it.  I must say though, I have had a couple of Specialized frames and I absolutely love them!  I had the Allez about 3-4 yrs ago, and an S-Works E5 which I have had for a couple of yrs and was and still am completely satisfied.  I have also had a couple of Fujis, and I think they are just okay.
691856
I put a pair of Specialized Cumulous (or something) on my old mountain bike to use it in the city.  The fact is that on asphalt, 26-inch road slicks are *way* better than knobbies. They're faster and corner better, and if the asphalt is wet, they're just safer.
579349
Sounds like a cankor.  I've had them.  You'll be fine.
928873
u should consider getting companys like haro,kona,norco,specialized,tr... and gt. start with kona, specialized and giant they make good bikes and they are cheap for bikes within the same range. for kona look for stuff, lavadom or scrap\nnorco:shore series\nharo:v series\nspecialized:any thing they are all good and cheap\nironhorse:make almost unbreakable bikes but they are heavy\nbanshee:morphine series\n\n\nbefore buying the bike make sure that the dimonds of the frame should be small and points upwards the tyres should be wide and with lots of rubber studs. the fork should have atleast 100mm of travel better if beond 130mm. the suspention brand that you should look for is marzochii or rock shock they are the most common ones. if you dont like the suspention then you might consider spending an other 500$ on bomber shocks they are good qualityed stuff. i recomand a hard tail because they are easier to ride up hill and gives lots of air. and is cheaper and lighter. you should look for disk breaks but if the bike dont come with them v breaks are good too exept over time they dig into your rim and shorten the rim's life.\n\nor you can consider hybrids they are meant for road rideing and is more comfortable than moutain.\n\nroadbikes can also work they are a bit expensive and cant take much damage. but they go very fast!\n\nbut if you want to look cool and fell comfortable get a westcost chopper!! they look pimped out with huge hind wheel and a motor bike like look!! they even have leather seats!!\nhope this helps.
722444
Ok, suspension I can understand at this price but to be totally honest with you if you go for a complete bike at $600 with discs everything else component (and possibly frame) wise is going to be seriously downgraded to get them on there.\n\nMost 'good' (read reliable, reasonable weight and powerfull) brakes and hubs would set you back in the region of $300 - $400 anyway, take that off your budget for the bike and you start to see what you're getting. Yes, they look good and it makes the bike look more expensive but a decent set of V style brakes will be so much more powerful & useful in the long run.\n\nGetting down to it Trek make some excellent bikes for under $600. The frames are going to last and last, the kit on it will be good quality and reliable, the weight will be reasonable and it'll ride really well.\n\nFor approx. $450 you can get the Trek 4300 with (reasonable) discs, ok forks and a good mix of components OR you can spend $10 more and get the 4500 without discs but a much better fork. \n\nYou can't go wrong with a Specialized Hardrock or Rockhopper and they do a number of models based around those frames within your budget.\n\nKona also do some excellent models at around the $600 mark but they are going to ride differently to the Trek, it's going to come down to where you are & what kind of riding there is in your area as to which one works well.\n\nWhatever you decide on you must PLEASE leave enough to buy yourself a good helmet, at least 1 pair of cycling shorts and some gloves. Trust me.
797559
I think the ideal setup for you would be a mountain bike, but you can go to Wal-Mart or a LBS (local bike shop), and get some slicks (tires). These are not so nobby, so you can go 1-2 mph faster, (so the BF doesn't get bored), and cost about 12 dollars each! \n (slicks grip the road well, and often have tread)\n\nThen, get a wider seat from Wal-Mart (or the LBS) if the one installed is not very comfortable.\n\nAs for the bike, I suggest you go used. You can get something four times as expensive (a better bike) for the same price).\nGood places to fing a good bike are:\n\nhttp://sfbay.craigslist.org/about/cities.html    (I got mine there)  \nIf craigslist has a city near you, click on the link, then find the "bikes" link and click on that!\n\nAnother place is Ebay\n\nAlso, check your newspaper's classifieds!\n\nMake sure the bike fits well. It is best to get fit to a certain frame size at a LBS, but you can also search for bicycle fitting guidelines on the web. ( I only suggest this because you probably are not going to ride too much) However, you do need the right sized bike, or it will be very uncomfortable. (for the back and the knees).\n\nAs for the actual bike, a good brand should be Trek or Specialized. Everything should work fine on a test ride, and have no rust (a very bad sign of maintenance) and the drivetrain (gears, chain, etc.) should look in good shape.\nIf you do get a  bike, I suggest taking it to a bike shop for a tuneup, at least to oil the chain, etc. and to tighten everything up.\n\nGOOD LUCK!
227968
You can still get them, especially for mountain bikes.  The front fork is the best place to put the mud guard.  Here is a link to a site that has them:\n\nhttp://www.headlandbike.com/fenders/fendersmain.htm
33881
There is an easy answer to this question:\n\nGo get fit for a new 460 cc Titanium driver....you're guaranteed to get more distance with the new large clubheads!
431481
bolt pattern....is 4 x 100mm
1151545
Ok, so "ardi_95" says he's got experience with bikes... although I'm at odds with his ego, I am in his corner here.\n\nPersonanlly I *like* the older bikes and enjoy fixing them up. I wouldn't worry about adding more gears just because that's the trend. If you plan to be a racer, *then* I would worry about more gears and in which case, just buy a new bike. But if you're not a racer, don't worry about what's the latest fad. The important thing is do *you* really like the Nishiki? That is the most important piece -- if the frame fits you, you're comfortable on it and it does what you want, keep it.\n\nIf you decide to sell it, call me first!\n\nAnd since you've asked for qualifications, I will just give a run down of my bike shed...Road Bikes: Trek 400 (mid 80's) Miyata 110 (late 80's), Trek 2300 (late 90's carbon fiber), Bianchi Campione D'Italia (late '80's), Takara (late '70's). Mountain Bikes: Giant ...crap, don't remember (2004), GT LTS Team Issue (2000): Recumbents: BikeE CT (2004), Linear LWB folder (mid 90's). Various BMX, cruiser and other bikes. Anything else feel free to contact me off the list.