i own  a 675fps with a 9* 35 powered scope. Is this o.k to use at say 15ft or less for squirrel hunting?
962633
First of all, if you need a scope at 15 feet, you better\nget your eyes checked. Then again, I really doubt that you \ncan get within 15 feet by stalking a squirrel. Not unless the \nsquirrels aren't afraid of people. \nWhat is 9* 35?\nThat doesn't make any sense.\nAlso, 675fps from what kind of gun?\nDo you have a chronograph that tells you that you're gun is\nactually shooting 675? Because if you're going by what the manufacturer states, it's wrong. Manufacturers ALWAYS \nEXAGGERATES what their gun shoots, it's part of marketing.
100248
I have used a Berreta 20 ga field grade (modified/improved) since i was 13 and have won many winchesters shoots 100 straight....its not the gun its the shooter and how much skill he has
702442
I had never seen the Sierra 125gr bullet in 243/6mm that the previous answerer is referring to.\n\nBerger makes a 115gr bullet (these are match bullets, not hunting bullets)\n\nSierra makes a 107 gr (again a match bullet, not hunting).\n\nA number of companies makes 105 gr. bullets.  Speer makes a Hot-Cor one that is good for hunting.  Hornady makes one in their A-Max series.  Lapula mades a 105gr. hollow point (not sure if this bullet is match or hunting).  Again, Berger makes a 105 gr. match.\n\nJust because a bullet is a match bullet, doesn't mean it can't be used for hunting, it just means that it is not constructed for hunting.  Many a deer have fallen to match bullets (especially the Sierra MatchKings).\n\nI am not aware of any loaded ammo for a 243 Win that has bullets over 100 gr.  I believe any ammo with 100+ grain bullets need to be handloads.\n\nIf you want a decent list of .243/6mm bullets, check out:\n\nhttp://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=1&Categoryid=7241&categorystring=9315***652***675***9016***\n\nMidway isn't the cheapest, but their prices are good and they have a great selection.
114914
Mathematically speaking, you bore it from being 0.30\ninches to 0.44 inches.\n\nI'm not very knowledgable about rifles, but I would\nthink that you'd face some problems in making he\naction, shell ejector, etc all work with the different\nsized shells.
956133
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, be advised, several of the answers you have received do not take into consideration the courses of fire in NRA high power rifle competitions. \n\nNRA High Power course of fire (all fired with  iron sights only):\n200 yards - Standing - 10 or 20 shots - 1 minute per shot\n200 yards - Standing to sitting rapid fire - 1 or 2 "10 Shot strings (2+8 [required reload])" - 60 seconds per string\n300 yards - Standing to prone rapid fire - 1 or 2 "10 shot strings (2+8 [required reload])" - 70 seconds per string\n600 yards - Prone - 20 shots - 1 minute per shot\n\nNRA Long Range Rifle\nPalma Match (Iron Sights only!)\n800 yards - Prone - 15 shots - 1 minute per shot\n900 yards - Prone - 15 shots - 1 minute per shot\n1000 yards - Prone 15 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n\n1000 yard Match (Iron Sight and Any Sight)\n1000 yards - Prone  (Iron Sight) - 20 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n1000 yards - Prone (Any Sights) - 20 shots - 1.5 minutes per shot\n[Note: Service rifles are not permitted to shoot scopes!]\n\nThe key factor to be considered, is that if you want to use the same rifle for short range and long range, you must be able to do a rapid fire reload ... Service Rifles fire 2 rounds with an 8 round reload... Match Rifles fire 5 rounds with a 5 round reload. Service rifles can handle this easily without modifications. Match rifles (read as Bolt Action rifles, need a stripper clip guide). Also, the Service Rifle category requires use of "CURRENT" US issue rifles, which include the: M1 Garand, M14 (or civilian M1A), or the M16 (or civilian equivalent AR15, etc.) ... foreign service rifles are NOT permitted! Current affordable rifles do not come with stripper clip guides cut in the receiver, like the old '03 Springfields. This is an expensive addition ... probably cheaper for an entry shooter to get an old '03A3 Springfield if they want to shoot match rifle, or go with a Service Rifle. Match sights are also an expensive proposition.\n\nAlso, ARs are great entry rifles for competition, but they leave alot to be desired at the 1000 yard line. To have full control of a .223 at 1000 yards, your handloads risk blowing-up the rifle's receiver! At 1000 yards, the bullet must remain supersonic ... above about 1140 fps.\n\nIf you want to shoot both NRA short-range and long-range, I would suggest you get resourceful! Buy a "rack grade" M1 (or barreled action, less wood) from the CMP for about $300. Then:\n1) Buy the NRA reprint on the M1Garand (maybe $5), it has an excellent section on doing M1 trigger jobs and glass bedding your rifle.\n2) Buy a finished replacement M1 Garand stock (complete) from Boyd's stocks (about $78)\n3) You can have a medium or heavy weight "match" barrel installed for less than $500 ... price varies based on the barrel selected ... Champion's Choice will sell you a Douglas barrel in .30-06 or .308 and install it, all for $260.\n4) You can then do your own trigger job for under $10 if you have the proper stones.\n5) You can glassbed your rifle following the directions in the "reprint" for about $20 (you can get accraglass from Brownell's for about $20)\n6) You can purchase and install National Match sights for about $125, available from either Springfield Armory or Fulton Armory\n7) Add a sling, and you are set ... total outlay, about $850\n\nYou will need additional toys, at a minimum: a shooting stool, a good spotting scope, a spotting scope stand, a shooting coat, and a shooting mat!\n\nThe rifle, built as above, will be very good and competitive out to 1000 yards! And you can build it in either .308 or the original .30-'06!\n\nYour options for rifles, therefore, are:\n1) Build an M1 as outlined, above for about $850\n2) Buy a "built" match grade M1 for just over $2000\n3) Buy a National Match M1A for just over $2100\n4) Buy a DCM Legal AR 15 (Match accurized, i.e.: Armalite M15A2 National Mat
892722
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYou have asked a question that is a double edged sword:\n"What can you hunt with a .22?" (within the cartridge's abilty) versus "What can you hunt with a .22?" (what can you legally hunt with it).\n\nLegally, that depends with your state's Fish & Game regulations.\n\nWhat is the cartridge capable of bagging? Rabbit, squirrel, small varmints ... but keep your maximum range to about 50 yards. Try not to shoot birds with a .22 ... using solid bullets makes your rifle dangerous to over a mile, and using .22 shotshells will be frustrating, since the #11 shot (commonly called "dust") is effective to about 10 feet!\n\nGood luck!
895641
Bound's hubby here:\n\nSounds like you have one of Roy's fine rifles. I would suggest you make the following changes to your sighting equipment. First, toss the Simmons scope. Second, replace the Weaver bases and rings with a set of either Leupold or Redfield two piece scope bases with rings. I would replace your Simmons scope with a good QUALITY scope such as a Leupold, Redfield (if you can find one), Zeiss, or perhaps Nikkon scope. Personally, I prefer fixed power scopes of 6-10 power, but your shooting use will dictate your scope need.\n\nYou have a fine rifle. Do not limit it's capabilities by selecting an inferior scope. \n\nGood luck.
604975
try looking for a halo bsince they are really good and dont chop paintballs\nif not go with a gravity feed.  the middle electeronic ones will chop up your ammo
772484
Most will shoot accurate to 100 yards.  I have taken many deer with a shotgun at the 80-100 yards away.  A rifled barrel with a saboted round will make a 150 yard shot possible with not problems for a good shooter.
873303
It depends on your classification of large. The .30/06 has the longest range and is the general caliber that most people can withstand in recoil and weight. In Arizona 300-400 yard shots are common and small little coues whitetail deer and .30/06 150-180 grain bullets drop them fine so do the 130 grain .270 and 7mm do well too. I would not recommend the .243, it is a nice flat shooting cartridge which is good for long range, but you have to hit them right to get a good kill, which isn't ideal for long range where you would have to track them if you miss. The .30/06 wont do good either if you miss, but there is alot more diameter and energy going downrange. I know, i know velocity equals on paper energy but I personally think that big heavy bullet is better than a light super fast one. Plus if you factor in the effect of wind, the .30/06 is 100x more wind resistant. My .25/06 little .25 bullet gets blown around in light winds. Plus if you practice more with the .30/06 and understand bullet drop, you will have a great all around weapon whereas the .243 is limited to deer and smaller species. The .30/06 will take game up to moose and black bear. Don't listen to people who say it doesn't work on elk, I have shot many and they drop real fast, farthest I had to track one was 100 yards. My dad shot one at 300 yards with two shots, one busted the front shoulder the other right through the heart. I personally think the shoulder shot was amazing at 300 yards to do that much damage to the shoulder. He missed probably due to buck fever, it was the biggest bull the game warden had seen up there in years. That was last season. The .30/06 is all you need and it is a good short range cartridge too, use with with 180s which are good for elk and I just took one this last season with an 80 yard shot, right through both lungs the bullet exited making a half-cent size hole. The elk ran 30 yards uphill and died. \n\nThe .50 BMG would split a deer in half, it does so to humans and blows heads, arms and legs off, too much gun, unless you are shooting at 5,000 yards. \n\nA howitzer is impractical and there would be no meat left and like the gau 8 it is pretty much illegal in all U.S. states.
891729
I've used both in my 12 ga. 870 with rifled choke tube and red bead front sight. They both seem to shoot well and I usually pick up whichever is on sale.\n I just sighted in a new fully rifled ported cantilever barrel with a 3x9-32 scope a few weeks ago. While both of the cheaper slugs still shoot well in the new barrel I found that Brenneke heavy field short magnums shoot a little better and pack more punch. It is a 1-1/4 oz. Emerald Slug. I picked them up at Gander Mountain for $4.49 per box of 5, compared to the $2.49-2.99 for the Remington or Winchester 1 oz. slugs.\n \n Remington slugs are 1560 fps muzzle, 1175 @ 50 yds., and 977 @ 100 yds.  They have 1340 foot lbs. of energy @ 50 yds. and 926 @ 100 yds.\n Winchester slugs are 1600 fps muzzle, 1161 @ 50 yds., and 953 @ 100 yds. They have 1310 foot lbs. of energy @ 50 yds. and 882 @ 100 yds.\n  Brenneke slugs are 1476 fps muzzle, 1174 @ 50 yds., and 1002 @ 100 yds. They have 1606 foot lbs. of energy @ 50 yds. and 1170 @ 100 yds.\n The Brenneke's shoot very well through the new barrel, so I went back and picked up a few more boxes just to have on hand.
361801
I use a .243 myself.  It's light and there's not much recoil, but travels well and will put one down.
811252
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYour VSS should be a very accurate rifle. I have read a number of articles over the years about how high powered rifles could be shot with cast loads to shave the shooting costs. It was not until I started casting my own handgun bullets (especially for magnum rounds) and bullets for my BPCR loads, that I fully understood the dynamics of cast bullet shooting. \n\nWhen I shoot my 700 Varmint for 1000 yard matches, my 175 gr. Sierra MatchKing trucks along at about 2550 fps. Your cast bullet should move along no faster than about 1100 fps if the bullet is not hard cast and not wearing a gas check. If the bullet is hard cast and wearing a gas check, you might be able to push the velocity to about 1600 fps. Do not even expect the cast bullet to be on paper with the same sight settings as your jacketed loads ... just isn't going to happen! Expect your cast loads to be good for about 50 ft of accuracy (to 50 ft in distance, not 50 ft. groups!). \n\nOne thing I would do is to check your bore ... if it looks like the barrel turned to silver, and there is not noticeable rifling, you have filled the rifling with lead and need to remove it! This would be because the bullets were not hard cast, and were too soft! A very long and tedious task! If this is the case, you have saved no money with your practice rounds!\n\nFor the rare occassions when I get to practice with my Varmint/Target rifle, I load up surplus 147 grain FMJBT bullets. As you know, the bullet is the largest expense in reloads. You can get the 147s real cheap (make sure they have lead cores, not steel cores).
142551
Max range is well over 1000 yards - I shoot my 308 at 1000 from time to time, and that's considered a moderate-powered rifle. 338 Lapua Magnum or 300 Winchester Magnum can reach well beyond a mile.\n\nAt those distances, there are really 4 factors that limit accuracy. Firstly, the precision of ranging equipment that is used. If I estimate a target at 1200 yards but it's really at 1400 yards, I might miss it entirely - or fire a shot at the knees rather than the chest.\n\nWind is another factor, and over a mile's distance the wind can vary. 300 yards out there might be a 10mph wind from the left, but there might also be a 5 mph wind from the right at 800 yards. This will have serious effect on the shot's path.\n\nThe accuracy of the rifle is important, too. Accuracy is generally measured in "minute of angle", or roughly 1 inch at 100 yards. So, a 1/4MOA rifle (fairly common among precision rifles) means the shot will vary by 1/4 inch at 100 yards. That also means that at 1400 yards, the bullet's impact can vary by up to 3.5 inches. That's enough to miss a marginal head shot, and that's under controlled conditions, which the sniper never has.\n\nThe last one is, of course, the sniper himself. At short distances the mere act of breathing can have an effect on the rifle; it will bob up and down in time to your lungs. There's a simple fix for that, though - stop breathing long enough to acquire the target and squeeze off the shot. There's a factor at long range that you can't overcome, though - your heartbeat. Your rifle will also move, ever so slightly, in time to your heartbeat because your blood vessels actually move you through hydraulic action. Just a bit, but enough. experienced long-range snipers will not lie prone, but actually prop themselves up just a bitso only their knee and elbow bones are touching the ground. Blood doesn't flow across those surfaces, so heartbeat doesn't move you as much. It's still visible because of your hands, but it's less than your arms or legs. Acquire the target, "learn" where your heatbeat is guiding the reticle, aim, and squeeze between beats.
204238
It's a 1950s era plinker.\nIt's not a particularly desirable rifle to collectors. Its value is strictly as a utilitarian shooter.  Those old Remingtons were often quite accurate and there are still a few old squirrel hunters around who swear by them.  Retail value is strictly what a buyer will pay - in excellent condition maybe a hundred bucks or so.  If I was selling I wouldn't consider anything less than $75 and I'd  JUMP at $150 if anyone was offering that much.\nHope this helps...
973553
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI have had issues with Mossberg Firearms. I am an avid fan of Remington's. Personally, I am not particularly fond of the Model 710, but if it's all you can afford then it's the best game in town! Now, if you want to spend your money wisely you should be able to find a good used Remington 700 or Winchester Model 70 for under $300. You could get a good Weaver scope (K4 or K6) for about $50. You will get a better hunting rig this way. \n\nNow, concerning caliber... the .270 can be used on most North American game, except the larger bears, if you place your shot right. The .30-06 is good for all North American game. For deer hunting, as you desire, either is a good caliber choice. The .30-06 may recoil a little bit more. \n\nGood luck.
716937
Bound's hubby here:\n\nI will not insult your intelligence, I will presume you intend to handgun hunt in a state where handgun hunting is legal! Also, since you said only hunting, you have limited the field appropriately.\n\nHandguns:\nThere are basically four categories of handguns that could serve your needs for handgun hunting: Semi-Auto Pistols, Single Action Revolvers, Double Action Revolvers, and Single Shot Pistols. I honestly think the most appropriate handguns for your hunting needs would be the Single Action Revolvers and Double Action  Revolvers. I would reserve the Single Shot Pistol until your level of skill and experience increases. \n\nWhen you talk Single Action Revolvers for handgun hunting, you should limit your discussion to the Ruger "Blackhawks". The can be had in two different grip styles; Traditional ("Plow") and "Bisley" (Target). These are strong revolvers with a reputation for accuracy. Ruger also has a line of "Hunter" Blackhawks, which have scope rings the have their mounts recessed into the barrel. These revolvers are stronger because the frames do not have "cut-outs" to accommodate swing-out cylinders. Since the "Blackhawks" do not have swing-out cylinders, you would want to shy away from them for defense, especially if you consider a quick reload as a possibility.\n\nWhen you talk Double Action Revolvers for handgun hunting, I would limit the choices to the L and N Frame Smith & Wessons. (S&W's only because I have had very good experiences with the Smith's, and they hold a crisp trigger for what seems forever!) A nice benefit to a DA Revolver is that they have swing-out cylinders, that allow for fast reloads, and could be used in a defensive role. A nice feature of the new (post-'92 or so) S&W L and N frame revolvers is that the frames are already drilled and tapped for (a proprietary) scope mount, if you decide to shoot with a scope.\n\nWhich action style you select is totally dependent upon your personal tastes and preferences. For me, I will lean to the Smith Double Action Revolvers. Links for both S&W revolvers and Ruger Single Actions will be posted below. \n\nCaliber: \nOf the more "conventional" cartridges, you should limit your selection to the: .357 Magnum, .41 Magnum, or .44 Magnum calibers. You could also consider the .45 Long Colt cartridge. All four cartridges are available in both the Smiths and the Rugers. Personally, I would avoid the exotic "new" calibers, such as: .460, .480, and .500 ... and I would recommend that you do too, considering your experience level. I would consider the .357 marginal, and lean more toward the .41 Magnum. I prefer the .41 because it has less recoil than the .44 and more energy than a .357. \n\nBullet selection: \nI would suggest that you shoot HARD cast semi-wadcutters with the largest "flat-nose" bullet you can purchase for your chosen caliber. The flat-nose of the semi-wadcutter is called the metplat, and it is what induces the shock when you shoot an animal. I would try to avoid the soft points and hollow points ... the HARD cast semi-wadcutter will do more bone damage and create a better wound cavity.\n\nScopes: \nScopes are a personal preference ... I may use one, I do not know in the future, but for now, I will stick to iron sights. If you do go with a scope, do not use a regular rifle scope, you need a long eye relief scope.\n\nSelf-restraint: \nOne of the most difficult parts of handgun hunting is maintaining of defining the maximum shot distance. My suggestion is to use 6" paper pie plates as targets, and restrict your hunting shot distance to the maximum distance that you can keep all of the shots on the pie plates. \n\nHandloading: \nI would suggest that you get into casting and handloading your ammunition, since you can "tailor" your ammunition to both your handgun and your hunting situation. Handloading and casting will