what is the best way to paint my bike?
964838
The best way to do this, unless you are experienced with refinishing, is to take the bike COMPLETELY apart... all the parts, drive out all the bearing cups, everything that isn't painted to begin with, then have the frame sandblasted (or blasted with walnut shell if it is aluminum) and take it to an auto body shop. Once the frame is blasted it MUST be primered almost immediately or it will start to rust in hours. Someone at the shop will likely paint it for you pretty cheap. \n\nIf you want to try it yourself with spray cans, do this:\nFirst, you shouldn't use ENAMEL unless you have it professionally applied and baked on. Spray cans are formulated to be used in a wide range of temperatures and humidities so they never dry "just right". Even if you got fancy with some tin foil and spotlights you would probably only end up with an even softer finish.\n\nHere is a quick (sort of) process to follow:\n\n1) After completely disassembling the bike have it sandblasted to remove ALL the finish.\n2) Spray it as soon as possible with grey sandable lacquer primer. Duplicolor paint is all lacquer, I think, and you can get it from your local autoparts store. Buy the BIG cans, not the small ones. Apply at least 3 coats, 1/2 hour apart. Don't worry about light runs for now.\n3) Wait at least 48 hours. Sand the primer using 220 grit aluminum oxide paper (white in color) until the surface is smooth. It shouldn't take much unless you have a lot of runs.\n4) Using a tack rag, lightly go over the entire frame (don't rub!) to remove the sanding dust.\n5) Apply several light coats (6 or 7 perhaps) of the color of your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Again, use LACQUER, the same brand that you used for primer. Apply coats 1/2 hour apart. Be sure you cover every part and do NOT get runs. If you get runs you are applying it too heavily.\n6) Apply the LACQUER clear cost, perhaps 6 coats.\n7) Let the frame alone until you can't smell the paint anymore when you get up close and take a big whiff. If you can smell it, it ain't dry! This will take 2 to 3 days at least.\n8) Using white paste polishing compound, follow the directions and polish out the whole frame.\n9) Do NOT wax or wash for at least 10 days.\n\nIf you rush this you will end up with a sloppy mess and you'll kick yourself for ever trying. However, if you take your time and do it right it'll be a very cool feeling.
219246
You might try different solvents. Such as carb cleaner or lacquer thinner. I'd try on a part you won't see when the telescope is fully assembled. If all else fails use a wet sand paper and re paint. The factory finish is usually a baked on type that lends itself well to cleaners. You might also think of using a green scrubby. Although this might dull the finish. You might then wish to recaot with a gloss or satin clear designed for metal. Good luck in your endeavor.
270870
Kitsch and make-up: Before we start on the paint job, allow me to introduce you to your best friend - liquid latex.\n\nYou can buy liquid latex at any decent costume shop. It usually comes in something that looks like an oversized fingernail polish bottle. I personally have only seen it in a creamy white color - maybe some places have a more racially diverse selection.\n\nLets start with some shrivel. Open your liquid latex bottle, and puff out your cheeks, like a trumpet player. With hamster-like swollen cheeks, brush on the liquid latex - give it a couple of coats. Hold it for just a bit - let it dry. Now, let the air out. Your cheeks are now back to normal.. but the latex, spread across a wider area initially, has no place to go. So, it wrinkles. Instant aging, at your service.\n\nHow about some peeling flesh? Apply the liquid latex, let it dry, and then artistically strip it off a leading side or two. Looking for something a bit more exciting? Some costume shops sell something they call "Zombie Rot". It is a soup of liquid latex and tiny black pebbles. Spread it on, and it makes the skin rough looking, and corrupted - like an advanced case of leprosy. It's a good effect.\n\nAnother possibility - many costume shops sell 'breastplates;' fat guy bellies, rib cages, etc. Buy a ribcage, and cut the black spaces out from between the ribs. They show up nicely through a shirt. Wanna get even more gross? Get a second breastplate made of latex guts, and go for the layered look. If you got it, flaunt it!\n\nNow you're set for the make-up. Rule one: If it shows, Paint It. If your knee shows through a hole in your pants, it better not be nicely tanned, or it will spoil the look. If you reach for something, and your healthy wrist is exposed, you've lost first place.\n\nWe'll start with a base white water-based cream. Our first choice would not be greasepaint, for the reasons below. The nice thing about greasepaint is that it covers fast and completely - you're going to have to work a little harder on the waterbased stuff, because it tends to tint more than it re-colors. the nice thing is, once done, you're less likely to shine like a mime and leave white skid marks on accidentally touched areas.\n\nOK, if you decided you just have to go with greasepaint. Slather. AVOID any latex appliances, because they don't get along well together, and the appliance will loosen: you'll need to pony up for some water based cream for those areas, and match as best you can. Keep in mind that greasepaint will rub off on things, so be mindful where you lean, touch, etc. while in costume. There is a translucent powder that will minimize rubbing and the shine of greasepaint, but it will not eliminate all the ills, Be forewarned.\n\nNow let's go with the robins-egg blue. Apply artistically: Some areas - the chin, the bridge of the nose, any 'defined' areas will look more skeletal if it stays stark white. Apply to cheeks, temples, around the eyes, and meaty places like calve and thigh muscles.\n\nBuild up a few layers of ever-darkening areas (yes - you'll need a few more make-up shades) to define shadows - eye sockets, neck tendons, around the sides of the nose, and - if applicable - cheeks. But let's try to be rational. If you have big ol' punkin' cheeks, you won't hollow them out with anything short of a pair of black hole stars tucked inside 'em. Some dead folks have big cheeks, too. Relax.\n\nNow, if you feel the desire, hit the costume store again, and grab yourself an accessory: an arm, a leg, some intestines... you'd be amazed at the horrible things molded in latex you can buy nowadays.\n\nThat sets you up with the basics, folks - the rest is up to you. Happy Halloween!
586877
If you allow paint to dry, it becomes innert and can be thrown away in the trash.\n\nJust take some carboard containers, seal them up so that they don't leak, and pour paint in so that it covers an eighth of an inch thick, let it set a day, and pour in another eighth of an inch. Once it's all dry, throw it away as any garbage.
408690
Get it down to the bare metal by taking it to a shop that does glass beading.  This is very similar to sandblasting.\n\nApply a good primer.  Ideally, you can get access to a pneumatic gravity feed sprayer used on automive finishes.  This will produce a superior finish to the spray can.
143201
your best way to go since the paint is already dry is to use Acetone. Make sure to remove the barell from the marker and use in a very well ventilated area. also as with Gasoline, paint thinner, mineral spirits and also acetone they are ALL EXTREMELY FLAMABLE, and you should use caution when working with any of them. Make sure you clean the barell afterwords to remove any residual chemical on it. ANY paint removing chemical will damage the inside of your marker, O rings will disolve as will you seels.\n\nAlso if you really want the barrel to look great you can send the whole thing, marker and barrel to get anodized in whatever color you want. usually costs around 80-100 dollars.
432181
Do as I did (I did it for my favorite College team)...Paint your helmet purple and buy the decals from the Vikings...Put them on yourself...Voila...Instant motorcycle Viking's helmet...OBTW...what kind of bike do you have?
45121
1. Paint your nails with a clear coat, dry, then 2 coats of the color paint, dry, and then 1 coat of the clear coat again, dry.  Make sure in between each painting make sure your nails are TOTALLY dry.\n\n2.  After your last coat is pretty much dry, dip your hands in a cup of ICE waTER with ICE CUBES.  Must be extremely cold water.\n\n3.  Don't do dishes.
243216
You can use stacky tack also called putty. It is a white color.
1033903
dude just use spray paint thats wut i did
957584
Paint it Black!!!! whoo hoo
641377
There may be pro shops willing to do it.  Otherwise, you might see if you can make your own stencil and paint it.  Not sure how to advise you on how to paint it though.  I wouldn't use house paint.
628664
You MUST clean off all the old oil and crud first!\n\nGo to your local bike shop and buy a citrus-based degreaser and a chain/cogs brush (or use an old toothbrush). You'll also need some 'pipecleaners' - lengths of thin wire covered in white cotton.\n\nApply the citrus degreaser liberally to all oily bits - chain, cogs, derailleur etc. Work it well in using the brush. Join two or three pipecleaners together and use them to clean thoroughly between your cogs and in all other inaccessible places. Apply more degreaser as necessary until you know you've done a good job. You'll see the old oil and crap just dripping off everywhere (so don't do this in the front room).\n\nNow hose down everywhere you just degreased. This is very satisfying - you'll be left with a sparkly clean setup.\n\nDry it in the sun (or with your sister's hairdryer) and apply the new oil. In summer use a dry lube, in winter a wet one.\n\nFinal tip - join two pipecleaners together at one end, wrap them around the axle of your wheel and join the other end. Repeat for the other wheel. You now have self polishing axles. You'll never need to clean in there again!
395751
First you have to get the old paint off.  Remove all of the component and take it to a paint shop that has a glass beading machine and have them remove the paint.  This is similar to sandblasting.  Using a gravity feed pneumatic paint sprayer, first prime the frame, then paint it.  Follow with a coat of clear coat.\n\nOr just get a can of spray paint from Wal-Mart.
882567
Use the paint program in accessories!
262786
Strip it down to bare metal. If it looks good, leave it like that. If it looks bad, repaint it.
456949
sand and use a ferrous primer and then aluminum paint or  just wirebrush and clean and wash with vinegar then use a spray epoxy  talk to a metal finish expert at  ici dulux paints [ glidden]