how do you bleed shimano disc brakes?
963881
i have shimano hydro brakes too. i read on the Shimano website that there is a seperate bleed nipple adjacent to were the hose attaches to the caliper. you use a 7mm socket wrench to open it, attach a small hose to the nipple and put the other end of the hose into a plastic bag and seal the top with a rubber band. twist the wrench about 1/4 turn. open the reservoir on the brake lever and start pumping the lever. you need to add new fluid continuously so you dont suck any air into the lines. when you see fresh fluid going into the bag, then close the bleed valve an remove the hose and bag. add more fluid to the reservoir until overflowing, then replace the cap.\n\ni think that it in a nutshell. look up your model of brakes on the shimano site, and follow their instructions explicitly. if your not confident doing this process yourself (like me), then have your local shop do it for you and ask if you can watch. thats what i plan to do and hopefully i will be able to bleed my brakes thereafter.\n\ngood luck
369321
you'll need to make the adjustment at the rear derailler.\n\nHowever, best advice, take it to a bike shop and ask them to show you. once you learn you will save big $$$$$.\n\n(Basic rule is, when standing directly behind the bike, looking at the derailer adjustment knob. a right turn will adjust the derailer down, a left turn will adjust it up......figure out which way your gear changes are missing, ie up shift or downshift. adjust incrementally until the gear 'just' changes....that should see you right)...good luck!
637324
Try http://www.ajinomoto.com/
363808
what kinda brakes? lmao\n\ngood thing you didn't say breaks
471354
pliers will work, but you may short something else out if your not carefull...i would by a fuse remover at an auto parts store, you can get on for about 2 bucks.
1103168
In addition to the above answers, look at how the cable is routed - any sharp bends, or the cable not being seated properly in the levers will give you a hard time. If you raised the bars it will raise the cable housing with it, and it will now be too short and causing the brakes to drag or be inneffective.\n\nWhat type of pads did you replace the old ones with? If department store-type, you can't expect much from these. Get some decent pads from the bike shop and give it another go if this isi the case.\n\nThe brakes themselves may be adjusted too tight or corroded at the pivot point(s). They should easily move back to thier resting position if you squeeze them by hand.\n\nAlso, if you have linear-pull (or "v") brakes and a lever designed for sidepulls or cantilevers you can adjust all day and not get any better. Soemtimes, on department store bikes, these are mis-matched right from the factory and you'll need to get the correct levers for the brakes.
593478
Remove the tyre and inner tube. \n\nSaw through the rim. Take a large mallet and gradually bash away until the rim is one long straight piece.\n\nJob done - but I can't think why you'd want to do this ....
128057
should be on the throttle body.  Either on the linkage or directly across from the linkage on the otherside of the throttle body.
750571
No, don't drill it.\n\nthe valve type is PRESTA, dude\nthere are two types of valves out there, shrader and presta.\n\nyou can twist the top part like a screw, that is the part (like the cap) for a normal valve, that holds the air in securely. you twist that looser, then put the presta pump on the valve, flip the switch  on the head part, then pump. when it is done pumping, flip back the switch and take the pump off. (DONE)\n\npresta is found on bikes that are more expensive (not wal-mart junk)\n\nSimply go to a bike shop, ask for a tire in your size but in presta.\npronounced    "Press-tuh" (but quickly)\n\nIt is a better type of valve, you can get an adaptor cheap at your LBS (Local Bike Shop) (or REI) for a couple bucks, or you can buy a nice, sturdy pump (presta) with a gauge for 30-40 bucks. Don't try to fill it up at the gas station, that would be stupid. (please)\n\nI don't suggest drilling the other hole (if you must) by yourself.\n\ncheck out this site, and scroll down to "Presta"\nhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html\n\nMy idea: Buy a pump (presta) for 30-40 bucks, and get a couple adaptors just in case\n\nIt might have clipless pedals, if you have not seen these pedals before\n\np.s. google "presta" and "presta adaptor"\n\n\nP.P.S.  NICE BIKE!\nNew, it's 1600 w/o tax but with police add-ons, it's alot more.
712986
Are you sure there resistance is off when you try to pedal?  if you are, call the manufacturer before you do anything.  You dont want to oil it and void your warranty and then it's ruined.
89189
Use a self-lubricating sleeve ... you can find those on line
58403
You need metric tools and bicycle parts.  Then, you need too follow the instructions that came with the bike.
284019
Your derailer needs adjusting, you can find how to do this on lOAds of cycling web pages.\nBasically you have to adjust the two screws so you can get the biggest and smallest gears then you need to adjust the cable tension to be able to select the gear straight away.\n\nTo do this put the gear leaver in the second SMALLEST gear and adjust the cable tension untill the derailer is in that gear. Then slightly adjust the cable adjuster to it changes smoothly up and down. \nNow recheck the top and bottom limit screws to make sure the chain does not run off the biggest or smallest cogs.\nAny probs let me know.
68607
all brake pads have a temerature range which they are designed for. street pads need to work cold. by brake standards 400 degrees is still a cold pad. race pads need more temp to even start working. mild race pads start about 600 degrees. if rotors are warping, something's wrong. bent hub, improperly torqued wheel, bent wheel. race car rotors get hot enough to glow in daylight. they don't warp.
644265
You could apply Singer Sewing Machine oil to parts that have rusted.  You can find a convenient little plastic tube of this at Kroger grocery stores and many other places.\n\nIt is also possible to pull out the inside of the shift cable, oil it with that and put it back together. \n\nFor a cable that runs "bare" steel down part of the bicycle:\nIt is possible to lubricate this by simply sliding the outer part of the cable off of what you want to oil.  Pull it free from where it attaches to the frame and slide it over the bare part of the cable.  Oil all of the steel cable.  \n\nFor a completely solid shift cable:\nThe shift cable is 1) unscrewed from the rear derailleur,  2) housing (outer jacket) is removed (may have to remove a small aluminum cap from the derailleur end of the cable), 3) steel inner cable is oiled, 4) any kinks removed from the cable, 5) outer jacket is reinstalled, 6) clamp the end back onto the derailleur where it came from.\n\nIf this doesn't work at all, remove the rear wheel and check to make sure that the freewheel (5 gear cluster) doesn't turn both ways.  One way should go clickity clickity, and the other way should attempt to turn the wheel.  \n\nWith the bike upside down, check to be sure that your rear derailleur moves back and forth whenever you move the shifter lever.  If it does not, check the cable again, spray the rear derailleur with WD40 (don't get that stuff near a tire!) and you may need to purchase an inexpensive shifter cable from your bike shop.\n\nIf your freewheel (5 gear cluster on the rear hub) does turn both ways by hand, then it is in need of replacement.  One particularly nice option is to purchase a replacement rear wheel (5 or 6 speed rated for screw/thread on freewheel) in the right size from bikepartsusa.com or amazon.com's Niagra Cycle.  \nYou'll also need a screw-on 5 or 6 speed freewheel.  While freewheels are extraordinarily difficult to remove, they can be installed as easily as putting the lid back on the peanut butter jar, and you can request by phone that the two parts be pre-installed.  \nThis option ($25 to $30 wheel, $15 to $19 freewheel/gears) is about the cost of getting the old one repaired at a bike shop.  \n\nWhat do you do if the rear derailleur doesn't move when you move the shift lever, replace the shift cable, and already tried WD40?  Don't worry, quite a selection of Shimano's entry level derailleurs still come with the old fashioned "claw" mount, and they work great!  A Tourney TX30 with hanger mount or TX50 with hanger mount is about $8 to $10 and is compatible with older bikes.  \nYou'll need a chain tool ($3) and a Shimano 7 speed chain $(12) to complete this installation yourself.  Remove the old chain and old rear derailleur.  Size the new chain (add an inch if your new derailler has a longer "cage" like the TX70 Mega Range that works with 6-speed 13-34 Mega-Range freewheel for mountain gears--for both, add two inches), install the new derailleur, put the new chain on, insert the too-long looking Shimano connector pin (using the chain tool, pin goes--pointy end first), and snap off the excess end of the connector pin.  This is all in the directions that come with Shimano's 7 speed chains #'s HG50 and HG70.  \n\nSuitable oils for rusted bike components include Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 3-n-1 oil, and motorcycle chain oil.  Do not use car oil!  WD40 works in an emergency, but it can dissolve rubber tires and shift cable jackets.  After an initial break-in period, even these oils will attract dirt.  Remove this with dark green formula Simple Green household cleaner, rinse with water and dry with a hair-dryer or towel.  Reapply lightweight oil or use Mountain Bike wax-based chain lube if you want it to stay clean more easily or live on gravel roads.  \n\nHave fun, and remember that by removing the rear wheel, you can more easily find out what part isn't working right.\n\nfor
424531
Flip that bad boy over.   Print head facing up.\nYou see that little circle on the underside.   Well if you remove the circular tape it will reveal a small ball bearing.  \n\nBefore you complete the next step I strongly recommend that you have a kit designed for this cartridge.   Punch that little ball bearing inside the cartridge.  Voila a place to fill!\n\nThere is no sponge inside this cartridge rather air bags.  You are going to want to force a little air through this whole to separate the bags.  Inject 40 ml of ink. Seal up with new ball bearing (if you have the proper refill kit you will have them (standard B.B's sometimes work as well) \nthere should be no leakage around the sides of the ball bearing!  Finally cover the ball bearing hold with some electrical tape.\n\nIt's done.
480738
ok you dont want to use Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner to clean a Throttle Body.\nThrottle Bodies have a protective coating on the bores that the Brake or Carb cleaner will strip off, Throttle Body cleaner isnt as harsh.\n\ngo to the parts house and purchase a throttle body to intake manifold gasket, go home and remove the throttle body and clean it on your work bench with the aerosol can on the TB cleaner.  get in all the little passages etc.\n\nreinstall with the new gasket.