Airsoft gun problem. model as240, orange.?
960733
Hey dude, i worked at a walmart and believe me you really dont need a reciept (if you lost it) but go back to walmart and return the gun you could possibly get a new one or even store credit.
906017
Semi-auto or Bolt? \nWood or Plastic?\nAny model numbers?\n\n\nCould be a Colteer or Lightning model, or some other model.\nDo a search for those to see if you find some pics that look like yours.
299305
Bad powder load.\n\nUsually not enough powder -- the projectile could get stuck in the barrel causing excessive pressure and the barrel to burst or bulge. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAR IT BY FIRING AGAIN!!!\n\nMay also mean too much also called a "hot" load - too much could cause too much pressure in the barrel and cause it to burst or bulge.\n\nBe Safe!
86619
buy a new one fairly cheap,don't try repair it!!!\n\nhttp://www.partsamerica.com/ReplacementParts.aspx
1163315
1. MAKE SURE YOUR PISTOL IS UNLOADED!  \nI can't stress this enough.  \nRemove the magazine and retract the slide to ensure \nthe chamber is clear.  \n  \n2. Disassemble the pistol according to the owner's manual. \n I can't help you much here. If you don't know the proper procedure  \ninvolved, you should probably stop reading right now and search the \nInternet, or post a query to the rec.guns newsgroup.\n  \n  \n3. Place a few drops of solvent into the breech end of the barrel. \nFor this purpose you can see I'm using BreakFree CLP.  \n  \n4. Insert the bore brush from the breech end and brush out the \nbarrel. \nAccording to some, this is where the greatest potential for damaging  \nyour barrel occurs.  Be sure to keep the sides of the cleaning rod from  \ntouching the inside of the barrel.  Always start the brush into the barrel \nfrom the breech (chamber) end.  Also, avoid touching the crown of the \nmuzzle with the cleaning rod.  Some people are so concerned with  \ndamaging the muzzle crown that don't pull the brush back  \nthrough from the muzzle end -- they unscrew the brush, remove the  \nrod, and reassemble the rod and brush for another pass through the  \nbore.  Personally, I don't bother with that level of caution, since I  \nfeel that by the time my practices damage the crown my gun will  \nhave bigger problems at that pont. \n\nAnyway, make several passes through the bore, until you feel the  \nfouling has been removed. \n  \n  \n5. Run patches through the bore.  \nPlace a clean patch on your jag, wet with solvent, and pass it  \nthrough the bore.  This will remove the crud you've just loosened with  \nyour brushing.  \n\nRepeat with another clean, solvent-soaked patch, and then \nrun a dry, clean patch through the bore.  Inspect the barrel for remaining \nfouling (dark smears along the rifling).  If necessary, repeat Steps 3-5. \n\nWhen cleaned to your satisfaction, run a lightly oiled patch through the \nbarrel, followed by a clean dry patch.  If you're using CLP or Ed's Red,  \ndon't bother; there's already an oily film in the bore for corrosion protection.\n  \n  \n6. Clean the slide.  \nUsing a solvent-soaked patch, rag, or toothbrush, clean the fouling and any  \nsmeared oil off the inside and outside of the slide.  Pay special attention to  \nthe following  areas: locking lug grooves (if any), muzzle end of slide (where \nbarrel tip moves inside the slide), breech face (where firing pin hole is), and  \nunderneath the extractor, a particularly common place for gunk to collect -- \nand cause problems.  In the second image to the right, I indicate the area \nunder the extractor.  I like to use a toothpick to clear out the often hardened \nlead and powder fouling from this area. \n\nAlso, don't forget the grooves where the slide fits the frame -- you want to  \ndefinitely remove any grit or oily sludge from this area.\n  \n  \n7. Clean the frame.  \nAgain, remove any fouling or caked-on carbon you find.  Pay extra  \nattention to the area where the barrel locking lugs fit into the frame \n(usually right ahead of the trigger area),  as well as the slide rails which \nwill likely contain an oily or gritty sludge.  Get a handful of Q-tips if  \nnecessary.  Don't forget the bottom of the magazine well.\n  \n  \n8.  Lubricate according to manufacturer's recommendations. \nRefer to your owner's manual for recommended lubrication points.  If  \nyou don't have a manual, here's what I generally do:  \n\n1) very lightly oil the moving parts of the trigger and hammer assemblies,  \nand any other moving internal parts (be sure to wipe away excess) \n\n2) lightly oil or grease the surfaces of the slide rail areas on the slide and  \nframe,  \n\n3) lightly oil or grease the locking lug area (ahead of the ejection port), cycle \nthe slide, and wipe off any excess (see first photo to right) \n\n4) lightly wipe the exterior surfaces with an oily patch o
973634
You can get it off of ebay with no questions asked. MY questions would be are you making bombs? Do you have a black  powder gun? or are you trying to lower the male sexdrive?
1005290
You need to clarify your question starting with what exactly you're asking. Are you having a problem with your M-9? If so, what is it? Describe in detail and ask specifically.
584419
Does your cycle allow some time for the release agent spray?  It sounds like a timing issue to me, maybe you need to give the spray another second to complete.  \n\nis it really a short shot, or just a sensor malfunction? \n\nGood luck with that! \n\nCheers
746233
Bound's hubby here:\n\nIf I remember correctly, the Winchester Model 70 hunting guns require a degree of up pressure toward the tip of the forearm, while the "OLD" Model 70T target guns had free floated barrels. The Model 70, nicknamed the "Rifleman's Rifle" was Winchester's Mercedes Benz of rifles, and it is doubtful they would have let a sour shooter leave New Haven!\n\nI would suggest the following:\n* Check scope bases for tightness (remember, be liberal with the "locktite" or iodine!)\n* Check to make certain the scope rings are tight on the scope bases.\n* Bore sight the rifle for 100 yards - NOTE: I just got a Model 70 in .270 ... I think it may be a featherweight synthetic or a "shadow", and I was not happy with the way it bore sighted ... the stud would not stay in place in the bore!\n* After bore sighting, fire a three shot group at the target, with the target set 25 yards from the rifle ... it should print very close to "dead-on" ... then go for 100 yards.\n* When zeroing the rifle, do so with a good sling, and perhaps a rest ... do not let the rest touch the barrel, only the fore-arm!\n* If this does not work, call the good people at Browning who are providing customer support for the defunct Winchester line ... they will probably ask him to ship it to their facility at Arnold, Mo. for repair. \n\nGood luck!
326499
go with Doobie. Believe it or not, hot soapy water is best. You don't  have to get it too hot, though. Wash thoroughly then make your final rinse water really hot -- nearly boiling. That will dry the gun. when it cools a bit, do a good job oiling it. \n\nHave fun, be safe! \n\nLeigh M\nNRA Instuctor\nhttp://www.NWSafe.org
739814
do not use that!   use paintball marker oil at a paintball gun store...dicks sporting goods should have it
790399
Contact Colt directly with the info you supplied here, they'll be able to tell you the exact date it was manufactured, where it was shipped to, and probably a little bit about it's maintenance history of the weapon(if any)
868312
You'll have to take it to a gunsmith...Shouldn't cost much, if anything.
1121645
your recoil tube may have alot of buildup in it.  i have to clean out my sbe after every 3-4000 rounds.
305927
The first thing you need to do is look at the primer on the bullet to see how hard the firing pin is hitting it. If it isn't make a dent then the firing pin may be dirty and it is not hitting the primer hard enough. You might want to try different ammo too. Most likely the problem is the firing pin or bad primers on the bullets.
316919
Congratulations - the Howa 1500 is an excellant investment for the money. \n\nHowever..\n\nDo not tamper with the adjustment screws on the trigger assembly. The screws have been properly set and sealed at the factory.\n\nAny attempt to adjust ANY trigger can result in improper safety operation and should be done by a qualified gunsmith.\n\nIf I recall some Howa 1500's were recalled for a modification to solve improper bolt replacement. You should take it to a qualified gunsmith anyway to determine if your serial number falls in the recall.
530691
longer aftermarket barrels provide for more accuracy at longer distances...try to adjust your air pressure it could be turned up to high with the barell you have causing erratic travel,if lowering the pressure does not help try turning up the pressure also usually the more expensive the balls the better the flight....if your paint balls are not "fully filled" the air pockets inside the paint ball will cause a wobble effect hope this helps you