I am due to go offshore in Arctic waters and we are having problems with Ice build up on HVAC outlets HELP ME?
953626
HVAC OUTLETS- I assume you mean the fart fan from the restroom or some other air exhaust because nobody would be stupid enough to install a heat pump in that climate unless it was designed in Texas.  If I were you I would think about lowering the relative humidty of the air leaving as it is condensing and then freezing on the freezing outside surfaces or heating the outside surfaces periodically.  I wonder if there is like an economizer box you could put on it and then just periodically heat the inside of the economizer box.  \n\nYou could take an old breadbox like my grandmother used to have and stick an old '57 chevy radiator in it.  Let that part be outside and where the water vapor in the exhaust vent would condense and freeze on the fins on the radiator.  Then every once in a while, you could run some hot water or light some of those farts and run the exhaust gases through the water side of the radiator to defrost the coils.\n\nBut that brings up another issue as far as risk assessment.  I saw some internet videos of people blowing up from trying to light farts- its a cheap source or heat but the safety people dont like it cause someobdy might get hurt and the environmental people dont like it cause they have to fill out a bunch of EPA paperwork to get a permit to operate a hazardous waste treatment facility.  \n\nGood luck and dont eat the yellow snow cause there might be some husky dogs in the neighborhood.
362736
Make sure that ventilation holes are free of dust. You can use compressed air to blow out the dust gathered in the heatsink.
338330
The answer to this is made tougher by the fact that the water will be freezing.  I mean how can you answer a question where the water is ice cold and use the data provided at STP?  Think you need to either re-read your question or provide a little more info.
929825
Dig as deep as you can, unless that would strain your energy. Snow/ice are okay protection (Eskimos survive in igloos), but if the ground isn't frozen, I would try digging because it can be warmer. Ice can't get any colder than 32F, so if the temp outside is below freezing, the ice will be warmer.
851152
UNPLUG IT TAKE IT OUTSIDE AND LET IT DRAIN AND DEFROST BRING IT BACK IN PLUG IT BACK IN YOU NEED TO DO THIS EVERY NOW AND THEN
142988
Take the back panel out of the freezer and make sure you don't have ice jammed back there in the coils.
166333
You should avoid ice completely. Call them to get help - see link below.
1005353
You may have to just let it thaw out.  Its likely you've overworked it and its overly humid.  Also possible is the water condensing on the coils is not draining away properly.  I've seen where the drain system gets plugged with algae, and it ices the whole system up.\n\nI'd try thawing it out before I call the repair guy.  He'll be happy to come out and recharge it, but you may not need it.  Just turn it off until the ice completely melts to thaw it.\n\nAC units don't like to be overworked, so keep the door and windows closed, and make sure it doesn't run continuously.
1102292
run cold water on it.\nby the way did you get my e-mail, my computer hasn't been acting right here lately.
967084
I would use a length of nichrome wire (see links below) stretched between a couple copper blocks. You could make some sort of pinch block out of the copper and connect a power supply to the copper. (or drill a hole through it with a set screw, tap a hole and us a pan head screw)  You will have to insulate the copper from the rest of the world so you don't short something out.  G-10 (a glass/epoxy resin) makes a good moderately high temperature insulator.  One of the contacts should be fixed and the other allowed to "float" and allow for changes in the length of the wire due to heating.  A spring could be used to provide tension or an air cylinder.  The power supply will depend on the length and diameter wire you choose.  If there is a problem with the electrical contacts heating up, you could run some cooling water through them.  Just drill a hole through it and 1/8 NPT pipe tape both ends.  You can plumb some water to it and it will keep the copper chilled.
92166
Try\n\nhttp://www.geokiss.com/hsoftware.htm\n\nit is a collection of formula's and software for HVAC
95109
This might help\n\nhttp://www.ttec.co.tt/consumertips/conserveelectricity/default.htm
521723
to avoid the configeration damage
309513
A computer can be in real trouble if dirty. From what it sounds like, you need to take off the cover, take it OUTSIDE and use a can or two of air on it. I have seen CPU heatsinks clogged solid, fires almost starting in Power Supplies and who knows what else from dirt build up. The freezing could be from overheating alone. Make sure the fans work. A CPU should not run over 55 or 60C.\nGet some masking tape to cover up the port and try to blow it out every few months.
1046190
vaccum seal and freeze... you want to minimalize all air exposure to avoid freezer burn
469896
This will depend on where you live. I lived in Toronto Canada and had a problem with air conditioning not working. The units were advertised as air conditioned in all rooms. One did not work at all ,it doubled as a heater in winter. We had it running not knowing prior to our renting, it had been on fire! The compressor was no longer installed . Could have had another fire and lost my family. We found out for every month it was not working ( as long as it is stated as being included in lease, and you have put in the proper repair orders)they would have to back pay $50 per unit per month, and would be required to repair and keep in working order. If you get no where and qualify go see your community lawyers for advice. It really depends on location and laws for your area, hope that helps!\n\nMore~SECTION 118. Duties of landlord and tenant\n\nA landlord shall at all times during the tenancy: \nExcept in the case of a single-family residence, keep all common areas of his building, grounds, facilities and appurtenances in a dean, safe and sanitary condition; \nMake all repairs and do whatever is necessary to put and keep the tenant's dwelling unit and premises in a fit and habitable condition, \nMaintain in good and safe working order and condition all electrical, plumbing, sanitary, heating, ventilating, air-conditioning and other facilities and appliances, including elevators, supplied or required to be supplied by him; \nExcept in the case of one-or two-family residences or where provided by a governmental entity, provide and maintain appropriate receptacles and conveniences for the removal of ashes, garbage, rubbish and other waste incidental to the occupancy of the dwelling unit and arrange for the frequent removal of such wastes; and \nExcept in the case of a single-family residence or where the service is supplied by direct and independently-metered utility connections to the dwelling unit, supply running water and reasonable amounts of hot water at all times and reasonable he-at.
127568
1.  Do the easy things first.  Make sure that air gets to the air cooling system; clear leaves, dead raccoons, etc.\n\n2.  Since this is a chilled water system, make sure the water (or other fluid) is chemically correct.\n\n3.  Make sure the compressors are compressing properly, the pumps are pumping, and the fans are blowing.\n\n4.  If you get to #4, you're in major retrofit/replace territory.  You might get away with retrofitting with water cooling.  Otherwise, you'll have to gut the thing and start over with a bigger system.