i have a traditions"thunder bolt" in line black powder .50 cal rifle and am not getting any spark to pellets?
961487
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThe condition you describe suggests that the vent ... the channel in the nipple is blocked. use some fine piano wire, then a thicker piece of wire, to clean the vent. Fire from the cap/primer is not reaching the chamber!\n\nGood luck!
858862
Please, dear God don't tell me you are using WD-40 to clean your rifle, please!  If you are, STOP!!!  WD-40 dries into an epoxy-like film, and it builds up over time...and, if is sets long enough, will lock up the firearm...as in, with a revolver, you cannot turn the cylinder, open the cylinder, pull the trigger, anything.  I have personally witnessed this.  \nYeah, more likely than not it is leftover from what you are using to clean your gun.  Make sure you get all the gunk out of the chamber before you start firing again.  \nAlso, how often do you clean your rifle?  You should, at the least, clean the bore and the chamber after every shooting session.
1026626
i always check inside the barrel for obstructions--check outside the receiver and barrel for bulges or cracks --be certain you have the correct ammo--use safety precautions such as ear and eye protection--the first i shoot any gun that i don't know --i wear gloves--  hold it at my side and aim in a safe direction so if it does blow up --my eyes and face would be spared--also if it does not fire when the trigger is pulled--the fireing pin or spring may be dammaged or weak--and may cause the shell to fire several seconds or minutes later--if that happens lay the gun down --pointed in a safe direction and wait 5 - 10 minutes then eject the shell--it may be old or defective ammo--try different or new ammo--repeat the process--it may be a lot easier to take your weapon to a shop and let them check it--i suspect it would cost several $ for something you can do yourself. --good luck and take care.
959877
Is it new? \nBolt actions require some breaking in and ideal lubrication to operate smoothly. It's a mechanical device and really doesn't work at its best until all the parts have a little wear on them. My favorite actions are what some would consider a little 'sloppy'.  \n\nPlease pardon me putting in my two cents here, but you should have found out about this problem at least a month ago on the practice range while you were getting yourself ready for the hunt. \n\nWith all the effort and time and money you invested into putting  yourself within range of that old buck, not getting off that second shot cost you a bundle not to mention the missed opportunity. \n\nPreparation makes a good hunt. Check everything and walk thru your plan over and over again, with an eye on SAFETY and SUCCESS. \n\nA good gunsmith can smooth out that action for you and make it feel great. You can find ways to do this yourself. If it's new, put a couple of hundred rounds through it on the range, it will smooth up real nice.
91098
My guess is that you have to partially insert it (as far as it goes) and pull the trigger, the front of the bolt might be catching on the sear, so thus you have to pull the trigger to let it go forward.\n\nI would also assume that if it came with literature of any sort that it would atleast have a basic break down precedure.
1016673
I go with a bolt action; Remington 700, Savage's model 16, or the model 10/110 also from Savage.  All rifles from Savage come from the factory ready for optic sights(scopes) and have the bbl floated(from the factory.  Floated bbl's are more acurate.  Don't look at price when looking for ammo.  You get what you pay for.  Premium ammo costs more but it shoots and performs better.  Save the cheap stuff for practice.  When it comes to caliber, here are my picks: .270 Winchester Short Magnum(my round of choice that I have killed 2 Caribou and a Dall Sheep in Alaska with; very fast, very accurate to well over 500 meters{I've done 1MOA goups at 800m durring practice a couple of times, it's hard to find a civillian range that has the ability and space to let you shoot past 200m.... big brother and I just went out into the AZ desert somewhere and shot}, enough ass to kill all game but Kodiak bear and probibly moose), .30-06 Springfield(old but old for a reason... IT WORKS!), .308 Winchester(7.62x51, the round of choice for precision Haji hunting and US med. machine guns), .300 Winchester Magnum(hits hard, shoots straight, requires getting used to the recoil, will kill anything, excellent round overall), .270 Winchester(another good all around cartiridge, it's kinda a small .30-06, been around for a while and that means ammo is readily available), and any variant of 7mm(accurate and powerful, but I don't have much experience with it.  I just know some guys that love it).  Don't go for any 7.62x39.  That round loses alot of ass/accuracy after 300 meters.  Train yourself to be surgical at 500 and you will be golden come hunting season.  It's the Indian not the arrow my friend.
713008
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYou have provided insufficient information. The amount of drop at 200 yards depends upon several factors beyond the bullet weight: the distance the rifle is sighted for; what type of bullet (service full metal jacket or factory hunting bullet) being fired; and the muzzle velocity of the cartridge fired!
29616
Using a material such as Marinetex or epoxy to fill the gaps between barrel and stock. Generally the barrel is sprayed with release agent (parafin based?) and then the stock material is hogged out on the inside. Then some sort of epoxy is put into the hollow of the stock and the barreled action is reattached and torqued. A day later, the barreled action is removed again and the epoxy is cleaned up.\n\nVariants of this include bedding the action and leaving the barrel free-floating, which makes the action more repeatable without affecting the barrel; and pillar bedding, where steel pillars are permanently fastened to the stock to make positive contact with the barrel.\n\nSo why is this done? Basically, the less an action - or a barrel - moves from shot to shot, the more repeatable the rifle is. Your groups become smaller, and your misses become by much less. I shoot at clay pigeons at 700 yards from time to time, and without a bedded action I'd be off enough from shot to shot that I may never hit the target. Bed the rifle and I can hit it..sometimes :-)
752499
Wolf sells surplus 223 rds but I would recommend against them. I used them in my bushmaster and it was freaking hard to clean. Also, the gun started jamming after about 40 rounds. They have a lacquer coating on them that gets hot and gooey in the barrel.
1126096
Try a Springfield XD in 9mm. I have one in .45 acp and love it. I have put 4000 rounds through it in a month and hasn't failed yet. I have tried every type of round I can get my hands on and have yet to have a failure to feed or a misfire. Springfield has several different combinatios, 3" subcompact, 4" inch and 5" inch barrel lenghts. Every one has a built in accesory rail. In which many other manufatures cost extra for that feature. Just a little advice. Gunbroker.com has several auctions for they many configurations for under $500.
344855
I want something that has KICK!!  I love it when a revolver feels like it is going to jump out of your hand!  Try a 12 Gauge shotgun with 00 Buckshot or 3'' Magnum Turkey loads if you want more KICK!  Or how about a .300 Weatherbee Magnum without a muzzle-break?  If you want sustained kick, join the military and shoot an fully-auto!  (Or get a friend that is the armorer and see if he will let you shoot one! -It's been done before, but don't tell anyone I told you!)\n\nThough I sometime like the methodical, precision behind a smaller caliber rifle, like a .22 or a semi-auto SKS with 30 rounds clip.  Just lay down and pick of targets (inanimate ones) real simple like and hardly move.\n\nCool Question! Later.
986982
YOU need to get some methelated spirit , pour some in the cup under the wick light it wait a few minutes and then turn the gas tap on It should light first time. " dont forget to pump it up first" PS, IF YOU CANT GET HOLD OF METHS, TRY WHISKEY OR BRANDY.
949332
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, let's take the Army principle, very infantry proof, if it isn't broken, don't take it apart! That being said...\n\nThere are two ways to take a firing pin apart. Both, eventually, require taking your 14 apart. The first way requires the use of a Garand combination chamber cleaning tool (an M-10 tool may also work, but I've never used one). \n\nInsert the chamber brush into the chamber, \nhave the "arm" pointed at 3:00, \nclose the bolt on the chamber brush, \nas you rotate the arm counterclockwise the back of the chamber brush base will catch on the extractor, \nleave the bolt closed and lift the extractor out of the bolt [if a long pin does not appear, you broke the extractor], \nslowly pull the bolt back, you will have a small ball bearing and spring plus the ejector and spring [both under pressure] that will come out of the bolt face, \nremove the op rod from the bolt, \ntake the receiver out of the stock, \ntake the bolt out of the guide rails, \nthen you can slide the firing pin out of the bolt.\n\nTo put your rifle back together just reverse the above steps. \n\nThe other way is a little more expensive. Fulton Armory has a handy-dandy bolt tool for the M1/M14. It sells for about $45. \nYou take the bolt out of your rifle,\nput the bolt in the bolt tool,\ncompress the lever on the tool like a nutcracker,\ntake out the extractor,\nease the pressure on the arm, \ncatch the detente pin and spring (the ball bearing),\nremove the ejector and spring, \nremove the bolt from the tool,\nslide the firing pin out.\n\nAgain, to put it back together just reverse the steps.\n\nPlease, do not tell us that you are deployed and this is your issue battle weapon! If it is it sounds like the "Army way".\n\nJust a tip when you sight in your rifle... do not rest the bullseye on the post like a lollipop. Put the sight post in the middle of the bullseye. This will increase the chance of hitting your target everytime. If the bullet hits where you plant the front sight, no matter what is going on wherever you put the front sight you will hit what you are aiming at (provided you have the right distance dialed in). \n\nGood luck and good hunting.
234195
Instead of just buying a new trigger try moving the trigger closer to teh micro switch so it wont take as long for you to pull the trigger. My trigger is so close to my micrositch that a tap on it will fire it. But only shoot as fast as you gun can handle or otherwise it will chop and its gonna take a long time for you to fix it.
768798
this could be a local language thing, if you mean the type of sparkelers which use gun powder, you may be out of luck. No plane will allow them on board and freight companies will not ship them
199262
I know what you're trying to do.  You're not the first one to try it.  Pellet guns were designed to shoot with a certain amount of pressure from the co2 canister, now all of a sudden you're putting a helium in there.  It will break your airsoft gun's bolt lugs.\n\nRead this.\nhttp://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1113147751/NO!
477619
If you are using round ball then the old method was to place a ball in your hand and use just enough powder to cover the ball. But it's not really a serious problem as you can't really overload a modern black powder weapon. The only problem you would have is seating the ball enough on a revolver for the cylinder to index. I've overloaded one enough that I had to trim the ball.\n To make it easier for you just buy a powder flask which will premeasure the load for you.\n Make sure you seal all of the cylinders after you have it loaded to prevent a cook off of all the cylinders at one time, it gets really interesting when that happens.\n If you've never used black powder before it's a lot of fun, a little messy but well worth it.