how do you take truvativ cranks off a specialized bmx bike?
971406
are the Truvativ cranks euro or american. Meaning do the bearings press in or thread in. Generally the first thing to taking the cranks off is loosening just the left side crankarm bolt. This bolt is located at the end of the spindle and generally is a larger 8mm allen bolt. On some occasions you may need to loosen a side pinch bolt as well. Once that is loose you need to remove the arm. Sometimes the arm slides off and other times it doesn't. The best tool to use is a crank arm puller but if that is unavailable you could use a ratchet extension and a hammer. The crank arm puller will thread into the internal threads on the arm and by tightening the crank arm puller you will be pressing the spindle the opposite way forcing the arm off. If you use a bolt and a hammer. be sure to make sure the bolt is large enough to not go inside of the threads of the spindle yet small enough to fit inside the crank arm head. You will just pound towards the spindle and the arm will go the other way, unless of course its a european bottom bracket. In that case you will have to use a crank arm puller because the cups thread in and cannot be pressed out. Once the arm is removed a spanner wrench or a thin screwdriver will take out the threaded european cup if its american and not threaded all you will have to do is tap the cup and bearing out. if you have any questions forward me an email at ashesoverpompeii@yahoo.com
647644
Bend the fenders out.
574316
Don't! \n\n.... or you'll be finding the money for a new wheel and a new freewheel!\n\nGo to a bike shop - they may do it for free or for the price of a coffee.
1118544
You have to have the right tools first of all. You remove the dust cap first. Then take a socket and loosen the bolt or nut holding the crank arm on. Now using a special tool ,called a crank puller, parks makes a good one, thread the tool into the same threads that held the dust caps in place. Thread the tool in as far as you can. Now tighten the push rod, it is threaded through the center of the crank arm puller. As you tighten the crank arm will be pulled off the bottom bracket spindle
920087
to solve your problem with minimal work, just bring your bike into a LBS and they should have the tool to take it out, shouldnt cost you a dollar or two, they might just do it for you for free! \n\nCheers
474487
You probably have a seatpost quick release on your bike. It's probably tight enough that you can't move it with your hands, but when you sit on it, there's far greater force being exerted that is causing the seatpost to slide back into the seattube on the frame.\n\nYou need to ensure that the quick release is tight enough when you flip the lever shut (you don't screw a quick release lever shut; it relies on the compression that comes with the cam-type of action the lever offers).\n\nIf that still doesn't work, I'd replace the quick release with a standard seatpost fixing bolt (non-quick release).
681032
Go top sports authority and buy a little kit with the lacing and the tool to do it with.  There should be some instructions in there.
485451
take out the batteries
129917
Grind the head off then take a small punch and knock it out
488987
A piece of 3/4 plywood might be a good place to start. Use bolts, u-bolts or dowels to hold the tubes in place long enough to tack the joints. You may be able to use something like B-line also. I used spare pieces of B-line (slotted angle steel) for a few bicycle choppers and sissy bars. Good Luck!
688363
Learn how to horse-hop. Rolling at a slow speed, standing on the pedals; in one fluid two step motion: crank into a high wheelie, put your weight on the back tire for a split second, then jump up off of the back tire pushing the handlebars up and forward and lifting your feet as high as you can.\n\nLifting and pushing on the bar is what keeps the pedals on your feet (try lifting the bike like this a couple times while standing next to it to see how it works).\n\nYou should be able to get at least a foot or more off of the ground with a little practice. The trick is in weighting the back tire and then jumping off of it.\n\nNow: Take this technique with a little more speed to some small jumps and shock yourself. With the right timing you can go ridiculously high off of very small things.\n\nWith bigger jumps this technique is not necessary or possible but your body motion is very similar so this is a good place to start.
372490
Simple approach:\n\n1 Take courage\n2 Sit on the bike\n3 Spin the bars\n4 Get off\n\nAdvanced users:\n\n\n1 Take courage\n2 Sit on the bike\n3 Pedal furiously until you're blatting along\n4 Lift front wheel to about 30 degrees from horizontal (keep pedalling)\n5 Lean back in the saddle, back straight, finger-tips on bars\n6 Spin the bars\n7 Miss the catch, crash forwards, absorb handlebars through your facial tissues, hit ground at speed\n8 Go to hospital
1171715
pick a gear where you dont have to pedal that hard, you want to use your body weight as a counterbalance...lean back and pull up your handlebars hard...after a few tries you will pedal longer.\n\nif you pull up too hard or lean back to far,your bicycle will flip out from under you..its all about balance...it doesnt come to you overnight but with work and practice you will know how hard to pull up and how far to lean back.
327916
yes, do you have clincher rims?\nI ride 25x700 tires on Mavic Open Pro rims on both bikes, the Open pro models are clinchers, \n\nracer used sew ups\nthe rim / sew up is lighter\nbut not very pratical if you are a casual rider\nas when you flat out\nyour betteroff carrying a spare sew ups\nand glue\nreparing sew ups is time consuming\nas it changing the sew ups and regluing the spares to the rim ( and a bit messy the first time you ever glue one on ),\nclinchers are easy ( I do not even use tire irons to pull them off much less to put them back on )\n\n\nsew up tires and rims ( they call the rim tubulars ) are lighter, than the clincher set ups, hence why the racers use them, but you can race on clinchers and the open pros are one of the more favored rims for that.
383240
the crank trigger is going bad...
454812
An 8mm Allen wrench can be used to tighten the crank to the bottom bracket.  On some older models, a 14mm or 15mm hex head wrench would be used.  However, if the bottom is what is actully loose, you usually have to remove the crank, tighten the bottom bracket, and then replace the crank.\n\nYou should probably take this to your bike shop if you don't understand what I've said above.
951359
The simplest and least expensive way is to drop the forks a bit (that is, raise them in the triple clamps), increase the rear spring pre-load, and shave some foam off the seat.  However, those suspension mods will affect handling (sharper steering and stiffer shock action) -- but that might be okay for a learner (if she's not going very fast).\n\nThe next step up is to take your suspension (front and back) to a motorcycle suspension shop where they may be able to reduce the effective ride height of the forks and put a shorter shaft on the shock.  However, I'm not sure that's possible with the stock shock on a TTR230...  Those mods are somewhat pricey though.\n\nYou can also look into lowering linkages for TTR's, though I haven't seen them myself.