Where can i get this lead from?
970810
io sono una italiana, un grosso bacio e un saluto a tutti
1186885
I'm taking your question literally:  the lead (Pb) is on leads of a dual in-line package IC for through-hole applications, and the quantity of Pb is just the amount used for 'tinning' to promote solderability, and these are not surface mount packages.\n\nAlso, I'm assuming that:\nYou've confirmed the law applies to you (this is not networking equipment).\nYou've applied for and don't qualify under one of the exemptions.\nYou're shipping TO the EC countries.\nThese aren't cheap 'jelly-bean' devices you can just throw away.\nThey are plastic rather than ceramic packages.\n\nThere are three ways to remove the lead:\n1) Mechanically,\n2) Chemically (with acid),\n3) Solubility.\n\n1) Mechanical removal is usually not practical because of static electricity considerations, and, you can't get to all sides of the device.  It should be mentioned, however, the IC leads probably could withstand bending out flat (like gull-wings) so that you could get access to both sides, and use mechanical-abrasive methods to remove the lead (electronic grade baking soda abrasive blasting techniques for example, or residue-free CO2 ice blasting, mechanical sanding, etc.).   Depends on the static sensitivity of your device and especially how you 'ground' the device in a custom-built enclosed fixture to eliminate static damage.  Is labor-intensive, but doable to salvage an expensive device - suitable for low volumes - can be subcontracted to local shops for 'rework', but you'll have to spend time confirming that the ***very strict*** anti-static measures are implemented and adhered to on the shop floor.  I don't think any post-rework electronic testing is really going to catch static damaged parts (some will only be 'wounded' and will fail prematurely - short-term testing won't find this), so your only recourse is to avoid damage in the first place.  Bead-blast residues are relatively small and inexpensive to capture and dispose of.\n\n2)  Chemical methods would take advantage of the solubility of lead in certain liquids at room temperature (i.e, acids).  FUNDAMENTAL PROBLEM:  aqueous-based solvents WILL be absorbed into the plastic.  Further, acidic ions will remain trapped in the crevices by capillary action and migrate over time by diffusion directly into through plastic to the electronic device where corrosion could occur.  So the requirements for dissolution by acid are:  Acids that would eventually cause device failure are excluded (this eliminates HCL due to chloride migration to the wirebonds and subsequent corrosion),  acids that are difficult to rinse are excluded (sulfuric acid is notoriously difficult to rinse).  Further, it would only make sense to encapsulate the epoxy IC package in a protective covering to isolate the acid from the plastic packaging in the first place (thus tooling and extra labor expense is involved).  Acetic acid is a weak organic acid that *might* be usable, in that its diffusion through plastic is lower due to the larger molecule size compared to HCl.  You'd have to check acetic acid against solubility of lead vs. its compatibility with gold, silicon, aluminum, copper, epoxy used in IC manufacturing.  THEN you'd need to 'tin' the leads with some other metal (another expense).  After rinsing, the plastic packages would need to be 'baked' to drive off the moisture (and hopefully acetic acid residues if baking temp is above boiling point of acetic acid) - this must be done in a oven specially designed for removing humidity with a rechargable dessicant (an ordinary oven won't get the dew-point low enough; you need -80°F dew point or thereabouts), and you'd need to confirm by laboratory methods the acetic acid was gone.   Acetic acid is so slow acting that I don't think you'd want to wait around for it to work (time is money), but whatever the candidate acid, it would be one that you could remove the t
159767
try to call a junk yard that takes it....\nPut it in the newspaper, free, as is, come take it..
261496
Doing the Lewis dot structure for lead is a little hard here since I can not necessarily draw the structure on the screen, but here is how to do it.\n\nFirst, take out your periodic table and see where Pb, lead, is located.  Then, determine how many s and p electrons you have, do not count the center electrons is basically what you do, meaning it has 4 outer electrons.  Thus, draw 4 dots around Pb, and you have a Lewis dot structure.
1018834
try www.alibias.com.... then choose a category then search... I use it get my leades to import merchadise for resale.
249347
you can get them from\nwww.americangreetings.com
281985
http://www.garp.com/frmexam/BuyStudyMaterials.asp
100419
The Leadbetter Academy...\n\nhttp://www.leadbetter.com/
281636
Wow! Cool! Where did u get that stuff?
580879
Try here:\n\nhttps://public.yahoo.com/leads-cgi/iso_lead_form.pl
645312
On EBAY. You can get anything there
991950
I don't think it is lead if it is a pencil, that is probably graphite. \n\nIt shouldn't be too bad for you. I think I've gotten pencil stuck in me before too. If you have a lot of money and really feel like it-get it checked out or removed. Otherwise just watch it. If something bad really starts to happen, it should at least become inflamed.
923615
Best bet would surely be from their shop or failing that, if they are in short supply then try ebay.
1104136
Believe it or not . . . \nThere's no lead in pencil lead!\n\nThe center of the pencil -- known as the writing core -- is made of a nontoxic mineral called graphite. \n\nGraphite came into widespread in the 16th century, following the discovery of a large graphite deposit in Borrowdale, England. As the story goes, a passerby found bits of shiny, black graphite clinging to the roots of a fallen tree. The whole countryside was abuzz with talk about this mysterious mineral, which soon came to be known as "plumbago" or, more commonly, "Blacklead."\n\nGraphite left a dark mark, making it ideal for use by writers and artists. But it was so soft and brittle that it required a holder. At first, sticks of graphite were wrapped in string. Later, the graphite was inserted into wooden sticks that had been hollowed-out by hand! The wood-cased pencil was born. \n\n\nGraphite in America.\nIn 1821, Charles Dunbar (the brother-in-law of author Henry David Thoreau) discovered a graphite deposit in New England. This graphite was certified as far superior to any previously found in the United States. With this high-quality material for its writing cores, the Thoreau pencil company came to be known as the maker of the finest pencils in America.\n\nGraphite in Siberia.\nWhile searching for gold in the streams of Siberia, French merchant Jean Pierre Alibert came upon some very round, very smooth pieces of pure graphite. Reasoning that they must have been carried a long distance downstream, Alibert trekked some 270 miles until he found the source of his discovery. \nAlibert had supplies packed in by reindeer to set up a mine at this mountainous site near the Chinese border. During the first seven years of operation, the mine produced graphite of marginal quality. Then a rich and unbroken deposit of the highest-quality graphite was uncovered, a find that yielded pieces of pure ore weighing as much as 80 pounds! Pencils using Asian graphite were painted yellow as an indication of the source of the superior material in the writing core.\n\nToday's writing cores are a mixture of graphite and clay. \nBy varying the ratio of graphite to clay, pencil makers can adjust the "hardness" of the writing core. \n\n\nThe hardness of the core is often marked on the pencil -- look for a number (such as "2" or "3"). The higher the number the harder the writing core. You might see other markings on pencils. Some pencil manufacturers use the letter "H" to indicate a hard pencil. Likewise, a pencil maker might use the letter "B" to designate the blackness of the pencil's mark. The letter "F" is also used to indicate that the pencil sharpens to a fine pont. \n\nPencil makers also use combinations of letters -- a pencil marked "HB" is hard and black; a pencil marked "HH" is very hard, and a pencil marked "HHBBB" is very hard and really, really black!
396873
First, comfort your wife!  Then ask the people who are staining the fence what they are using.  Most stains do not contain lead any longer--just like most paints don't contain it any more--I'm pretty sure it's illegal for the manufacturers to use lead in those types of products now, but older stains and paints may still have some lead in it.  It usually isn't harmful unless you ingest the stuff.  Just keep your kids away from the fence until it is dry and don't let them eat or handle any of the old scrapped off stain.  Clean it up as best as you can, what you can't get picked up should be washed away with water--lots and lots of water.  If it is the neighbors fence, and is totally on his property, he can do what ever he likes to it--unless you live in a neighborhood that has rules about things like that.  Check with your neighborhood home owners association about the rules for fencing.  If the fence is on your property or belongs to you--he can't be on your side unless you let him!  Honestly, it sounds to me like this neighbor could just be having a bad day--who knows.  For your own safety and that of your family, stay in your own yard, don't call the guy and call the police if the guy gets nasty again.
164548
You can get it here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RG6B/104-5908911-2922340?v=glance&n=130
1011417
Just how "pure" do you want it?\nTo what purpose do you intend to use it?  Perhaps if we knew this, we might be able to advise on what types of impurities would be considered acceptable for your application.\n\nThere are numerous inexpensive and easily accessible sources of lead available, but they all contain some degree of impurities.\n\nIf you want ultra pure lead, your best bet (although it will cost you) will be to buy it through a chemical supplier...if they will sell it to you as an individual.\n\nAnother option would be to chemically extract it from lead containing substances.\nLead is not exactly the most reactive metal out there, so it shouldn't be too hard to device a chemical reaction to extract it from a Pb compound.\nFor example, using soluble Lead Nitrate, out could precipitate out Lead metal using a more reactive pure metal.  This process might not be ideal for your particular application, but if you look around and do a bit of research, you might find something acceptable.