why is my new front derailleur cable so tight?
919062
Yeah 'cos there's nothing you can't fix with WD40 and a hammer eh!\n\nIf you look on the top of the derailleur you will two screws one marked H or high, the other L or Low. Shift into the big ring on the front then adjust the H screw to allow the derailleur to move further out. This should fix it.
1031387
As far as reving high, you need carburator adjustment. This may solve the choke problem as well. For the bike kicking into gear by itself, if it is new they will do that until broken in properly but if it is older you need to check the clutch plates as they may be worn and need to be replaced.
88764
YOUR NOT TORQUING THE CONNECTING RODS!!! are you?\n\nI'd hope your torquing the "ROD BOLTS".\n\nTHE RACING STANDARD IS "ARP" (automotive racing products) ROD BOLTS.\n\nDo a yahoo seach and contact them, I'm sure they can help you.
700903
1. Could be that the RJ45 (the little square at the end of the cable) is loose or not properly plugged in.\n\n2. RJ45 connector is defective and has a loose wire contact inside\n\nTry to check.
219195
CAUSE IT HAS THE ANTILOCK BREAK SYSTEM WHEN ON AN OLDER MODEL THEY HAVE A COUPLE OF BOLTS AN A LITTLE ROD!!\nI WISH YA THE BEST OF LUCK!!! I KNOW IT CAN BE A ***** WORKING ON THE NEWER MODELS!!
467511
Well it dosn't seem like that big of a deal. So just let it go till the next time you take the RV in for service or inspection have them take a look at it. It may just be a loose  wire since the switch still retracts it.
755299
I would guess you have a derailleur problem, freewheel or cassette it doesn't matter or make a difference.\nThe 1st thing to address would be make sure your tension bolt is adjusted to the proper tension.\n\nIf this doesn't work you may have to adjust your high and low adjustment screws which will adjust your pulleys with your top and low gear.\nThis is done by shifting to the lowest gear and turning the low adjustment screw or bolt so that the guide pulley moves to a position directly below the low gear and then repeat the process again using the high end adjustment bolt with your highest gear.\n\nAfter that try adjusting the adjustment bolt, it's on the back of the derailleur the one the cable runs through.\n1st put your bike on a stand and put your chain on the second smallest gear and turn the crank slowly, if your chain is touching 3rd gear turn the adjustment bolt clockwise until the chain noise is gone.\n If it's touching 1st gear then turn it counterclockwise until the noise is gone. \nFollowing the procedure should solve your problem.
816960
OK, there are a couple of reasons that your bike might be creaking, some worse than others:\n\n1) If the bike makes the noise only as you are pushing down on the pedals, chances are the crank arms are loose. These need to be tightened to a specific torque so I recommend a bike shop visit;\n\n2) If the bike creaks when you are seated, it may be because the saddle or seatpost is loose. Make sure the saddle is tight on the seatpost, then REMOVE the post from the frame, coat the inside of the seat tube (the frame tube where the seat post fits), then reinstall the seat post. If you overtighten the seatpost in the frame you may damage the frame, so be careful;\n\n3) If the bike creaks when you put a lot of stress on the handlebars, slide the bars out from the stem and lubricate between bar and stem as with the seatpost. If you have a standard quill stem, also remove the stem from the fork and lubricate with grease inside the fork tube (steerer). Should you have a threadless steerer I recommend that you, again, take it to a bike shop just to be sure everything is cool; \n\n4) If your frame is aluminum, it is beginning to fail. Unlike steel, aluminum will eventually fail just from regular riding. Occasionally this failure is pretty spectacular and is called "Sudden Catastrophic Failure". If you have a high end bike (perhaps $1500 or more) and the frame is aluminum, sometimes they creak from the day they are new.
284019
Your derailer needs adjusting, you can find how to do this on lOAds of cycling web pages.\nBasically you have to adjust the two screws so you can get the biggest and smallest gears then you need to adjust the cable tension to be able to select the gear straight away.\n\nTo do this put the gear leaver in the second SMALLEST gear and adjust the cable tension untill the derailer is in that gear. Then slightly adjust the cable adjuster to it changes smoothly up and down. \nNow recheck the top and bottom limit screws to make sure the chain does not run off the biggest or smallest cogs.\nAny probs let me know.
999196
it might be that the chain isint on the same gear..or the gears that are alinged with each other.....you could try to get some oil libricant at a hardware store...to put on the gears and chain..
1103168
In addition to the above answers, look at how the cable is routed - any sharp bends, or the cable not being seated properly in the levers will give you a hard time. If you raised the bars it will raise the cable housing with it, and it will now be too short and causing the brakes to drag or be inneffective.\n\nWhat type of pads did you replace the old ones with? If department store-type, you can't expect much from these. Get some decent pads from the bike shop and give it another go if this isi the case.\n\nThe brakes themselves may be adjusted too tight or corroded at the pivot point(s). They should easily move back to thier resting position if you squeeze them by hand.\n\nAlso, if you have linear-pull (or "v") brakes and a lever designed for sidepulls or cantilevers you can adjust all day and not get any better. Soemtimes, on department store bikes, these are mis-matched right from the factory and you'll need to get the correct levers for the brakes.
770690
Sorry, you need a chain tool unless the chain is made be Sram. It isn't Sram unless it was already replaced.
900306
Not necessarily. A loose sprocket would move from side to side, not front to back, so unless it is REALLY loose that is not the problem.\n\nIf your problem is that the chain falls off, then a loose sprocket can be the problem. When you place pressure on the pedals it will pull a loose sprocket out of the chainline and the chain will track off the gears.
226664
Number 1, if Trek spec'd that fork for that bike, they knew that the bike would handle well in both instances.  \nNumber 2, 20mm = 2cm= less than 1 inch.  It is very unlikely that you will notice any difference on how the geometry of the bike has been affected, nor will you see a significant difference of travel.  Most of the additional travel will be eaten up by "sag" or the ammount of  downward pressure exerted on a suspension component with the rider sitting on the bike.  To see a real difference, replace your inner components on the fork, i.e. elastomers/springs, oil, seals...
436103
If you find out, tell me. I have the exact same bike and my chain just broke. I went to the local bike shop and they want $25 for the chain. They also said they probably woud recomment changing the front gears too, since both parts usually wear out at the same time. That's going to be another $50 with labor. Go to the Mongoose bike website, they might have the info on size there.
346396
The chain could be loose or your gears need adjusting. You should take it down to your local bike shop and ask them to fix it for you.
655578
Installing a new headset is something best left to a bike shop. To do this well, without potentially damaging the headset and the frame you need a headset press.  Installing a new fork isn't so hard once the headset is in place (just remember to remove the lower (crown race) part of the headset from the old fork and put it on your new one.  You'll also need a new star nut (the thing that pushes down inside the steer-tube of the new fork). A saw that cuts metal is also a necessity because the steer-tube on your new fork will be way too long when you get it.\n\nThe spacers are used to fill the gap between the headset and the stem, they are essential because an aheadset works on compression.  Without the spacers, the fork will slide up and down in the head tube. How many spacers you need depends on how high you want your handlebars.\n\nIf all of this is confusing to you, take the bike to your LBS (local bike shop) to get the work done and ask if you can watch while the mechanic does it.  Feeling more adventurous? Try getting a mountain bike maintenance book and see if you can figure it out for yourself, but I do emphasize that if you are installing a new headset on a frame it's better left to the LBS.