is there any whay that i could convert my AC to DC ower supply to a 12 DC to DC power supply?
928978
It wouldn't be easy.\n\nPower supplies for PC's generally produce four outputs: +12v, -12v, +5v, and -5v. Some PC power supplies also produce +3.3v and -3.3v. These voltages are measured with respect to a ground of 0 v. \n\nYour car battery is probably 12v, which means that there is a total of 12v of potential between the + and - poles; so the cathode of your car battery gives -6v and the anode gives +6v with respect to ground. It's very easy to step these voltages down to +-5v and +-3.3v, just put the appropriate resistor into the circuit and there you are. \n\nBut stepping the voltage UP to +-12v is another matter entirely. For that, you will need a transformer of the correct size and winding. Further, you should be aware that most desktop PC's want to consume 100, 200 or even 300 watts, which may easily be more continuous power than your auto battery is designed to give.
1038968
What voltage dc, or do you need to be able to vary it?  What current capacity do you need?  What ripple voltage is acceptable?
609875
first of all, 120/240 are standard voltages for AC power, not DC.  DC comes in all flavors.\n\nanyway: 2500 kilowatts DC?\n\nthat is 2.5 MEGAwatts.  \n\ni find this somehow hard to swallow.  when i worked at a particle accelerator there was ONE really big DC power supply that put out something like 1.5 megawatts.  it was the size of a small apartment, and required massive amounts of water cooling, was entirely custom built, and probably cost something on the order of a million dollars or more.\n\ni don't think there is any such thing as "usual" for a 2.5 megawatt power supply.  think about it - you're talking about nearly the power consumption of a small town.  anything liek that would have to be custom built.\n\n----\n\nok, having seen your additional details:\n\ni'm quite positive it's AC, not DC.  it also probably depends on what kind of generator it is.  to give you a rough estimate, here's an example of a 11.5MW turbodiesel generator on a cruise ship:\nhttp://www.ship-technology.com/projects/destiny/\nnote the output is at 6.6kV.  that would set the current at the output at around 1.8 amperes.  \n\nhere's some more information.  as you can see there is no real "usual".  \nhttp://www.ship-technology.com/contractors/electrical/abb2/\n\ncheers!
632448
Yes. Definitely.\n\nA/C adaptor is an Alternating Current.\nPower supplies are custom units of power management, it might be D/C (Direct Current), so it's really important to pay attention to them, or you could fry your electronic.
647784
http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/\n\nThis is a unit converter. its quite nice
1002902
Hi,\n\nI would also recommend to get a 500Watt Power Supply. But the more the merrier. Currently a 600Watt will hold whatever setup you have installed.\nJust make sure you buy a good brand power supply.\nHere are my brand recommendations:\nAntec,PC Power & Cooling,Enermax,Sea Sonic and Thermaltake is also good.
320442
Any inverter designed to run from a car battery which gives the current output you require should work. Connect the batteries in parallel for longer usage time. If you can get hold of a socket and battery connector from auto-parts supplier it would make connecting a single battery easy. Or did you mean you want to run your PC from your car anyway?
728334
might not have enough watts!!!
1153208
I doubt you can...the plugs are different with different ohm settings.
929646
Depending on the output current you desire and what current the +24 VDC can supply a simple 3-terminal regulator like a 7812 should do the trick. It should be able to handle the 24 V input. You may need to add a 0.01µF Cap from Ground to the +5 VDC output to dampen any oscillations. There are usually a number of cookbook circuits in the data books. \n\nGood Luck!
1095215
The above answers about using a voltage regulator sound ok.  Just make sure to check out the regulator's data sheet so that it can safely regulate what DC voltage you are giving it (though with this 12V case you shouldn't have a problem).\n\nAlso, when a battery is rated at 12V, 30A the battery doesn't necessarily output 30A at all times; that is just a full load rating given for safety reasons (don't want to overload the battery).  The battery is a constant voltage source so you can certainly have a load that pulls much less than 30A.\n\nWidth of wire?  You shouldn't be too concerned with this at these low voltages.  Just use breadboard type wire (around 22 AWG I believe).\n\nAlso, one final comment from me... why use a car battery when you can use a more convenient source of DC voltage?  If you want something that can conveniently power your IC's try one of those nifty AC/DC plugs that charge cell phones and the like.  They are rated in various output voltages and can surely supply all the current your IC's will need.  Just cut off the DC plug end and strip the wire.  Boom, now you have DC voltage for your breadboard supply terminals or whatever.
1083935
Yes.\nJust make sure you have matched the voltage correctly.\nAt this low power, you'll probably be OK.
85396
There are so many converter softwares out there...goto download.com and search it...
861559
try http://www.dbpoweramp.com
294910
Current PC power supplies (I'm assuming a desktop or tower style power supply here) have several types of wiring coming out of them. I'll list them with comments. \n\n--Flat 4-pin inline wite plastic connectors, lots of them. These are power connectors for devices like disk drives. Polarized and can't be inserted backwards. Usually 4 multiply colored heavy guage wires to each connector. Not all of these must be connected.\n\n--Large 2 row white plastic connector (about 20 pins) which is the main power conenctor to the motherboard. Also polarized and can't be inserted backwards. 1 of these. Must be connected to the motherboad.\n\n--Small 4-pin connector, perhaps as many as two. Power connector for small drives (like 3.5" floppy drives). Not all need to be connected to drives.\n\n--Up to two additional connectors for the motherboard. One will have 4 pins, and one 6 pins (if memory serves). They are polarized and can't be inserted backwards. These are additional power supply lines for high current motherboard circuits. If present, and the motherboard has matching sockets, they should be connected. If the motherboard has no matching connectors, leave unconnected. If the power supply doesn't have them, and the motherboard does, stop. Carefully consider the total current draw of the various components on the motherboard and attached to it. You might have to (likely will have to) get another power supply to safely satisfy the motherboard's needs.\n\nIt may be useful to know that a great many power supplies don't actually behave very well. It's not easy to design a reliable supply with good perforomance at a reasonable price and in the size constraints within which a standard power supply must fit. A misbehaving power supply can damage your motherboard, the CPU, and everything plugged into it (expensive graphic card, perhaps?). If you've gotten a power supply made by someone you've never heard of, you might want to find a local hobbyist (or perhaps better a HAM radio operator) who can test the supply for you. \n\nPC Power and Cooling have a sterling reputation for the quality and reliabilty of their power supplies. Antec is also well thought of. Neither costs so much as to justify the risk of frying several hundred dollars of CPU, graphics card, motherboard, etc. \n\nSAFETY NOTE: These power supplies have lethal voltages inside. They are NOT safe to open, unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing, and even then they're dangerous as all get out. Furthermore, those lethal voltages will still be present for more than a few minutes after power is removed. Also note that many modern ATX and compatible machiens DO NOT turn off the power supply even when the front panel "power switch" is pushed and the computer shuts down. Most of the time they remain in 'warm' mode when apparently "off", and are still operating even when the computer itself isn't. Stay out of power supply innards! The only certain way to be sure the power supply is completely off (though it will remain dangerous for many minutes) is to remove the power cable. Putting it in a drawer, and closing the drawer, before doing anything further is quite sensible.
97533
+12VDC, -12VDC, +5VDC, -5VDC
387324
If its a 12v power supply you need then i think Radio shack should have a suiteable replacement  and they have power supplies with changeable polarity. Ebay has them but a lot of looking to find one .