what shaft tip dia. is required for mizuno MST irons?
911972
Don't know, Probably .335\n\nACTUALLY IT IS .370, I AM NOW SURE OF THIS.
379962
As I got better at golf, basically I switched from a game improvement type iron to a forged cavity back which is less forgiving. When your handicap falls under 10 you should probably demo some blades musceback type irons and see if they work for you. If you are consisitent and rarely have truely bad swing days, aka shanks you are probably ready. If you have a mediocre swing the blades will maximize those faults and your scores will likely suffer.
402913
well, I don't know about the testing, but for design, you use 0.4Fy as your shear strength. If you have 36 ksi steel, then you need 14.5 ksi to create a shear failure. Don't know if that works forpunching holes; it's probably less. Good question.
186012
There are, unfortunately, probably a half-dozen ways to measure a golf club. One of the most accepted methods, though, is to place the club in playing position with the sole squarely grounded. Then place a metal ruler behind the shaft, down behind the heel of the clubhead. The length is indicated to the end of the grip cap. \n\nalso u may wanna check out this site for the appropriate golf shaft size u need... good luck.. :o)\nhttp://www.course-critics.com/
722234
The Forged 660 irons feature a concave muscle back design. With its progressive, concave muscle and dual hosel length design, Forged 660 irons produce a flighted trajectory through the set for higher-launch long irons, medium launch mid irons, and flat launch short irons. A precision forging process guarantees consistent head shapes, dimensions and weights through the set with the soft feel and sound preferred by better golfers. A glare-reducing satin finish reflects 40% less light than bright chrome.\n\n \nDon't understand why you want a 2 iron they are so hard to hit.  Hybird is much better, but some people do like 2 irons \n\n$135 per iron (steel) CUSTOM ONLY\nhttp://www.titleist.com/images/products/pdfs/forgedirons.pdf
771302
I used to play with a set of these back in the day....kinda cool clubs...internal cavity.\n\nCheck Ebay:\n\nhttp://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&fnu=1&from=R10&satitle=taylor+made+icw+11&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=44305&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search&fgtp=
285310
Try contact the ASTM Directly - it's one of their specs.\n\nA311/A311M-04 - Standard Specification for Cold-Drawn, Stress-Relieved Carbon Steel Bars Subject to Mechanical Property Requirements.\n\nwww.astm.org\n\nThanks!!! Morgan x :o)
714439
No, they are not held to the same strict tolerances as OEM clubs. You might have 5 clubs out of your set that do not have consistent lofts and lie....you might notice over a period of time that you always hit your 8 and 9 iron good and your 7 and 6 iron bad...\n\nJust for my piece of mind, I would spend the extra couple hundred and not have to worry about equipment being the culprit behind bad shots. \n\nGood Luck!
1132505
Lynx Iron, J Driver, and Ping putter.
284841
Metric M4 = 4mm diamater with standard metric pitch
392532
yes. There are regulations on clubhead size, shaft length, club weight, groove cuts, face material.  I don't know what all the regs. are, but I do know all of these factors are regulated.  Ex.  A driver may not exceed a threshold of 460cc(cubic centimeters).  This is a rule and refers to the size limit on a clubhead.
14544
How much are you willing to spend. In this month's issue of Golf Magazine, they suggested this set for 20+ handicappers: \n\nMizuno MX-23 (5I-PW) irons\n\nCleveland CG11 Gap wedge\n\nMacGregor V-FOIL EZ Out SW (56 degree)\n\nClevleand HALO Hybrids (22 and 25 degrees)\n\nTaylorMade r5 Dual 5 wood and 7 wood\n\nPing G2 EZ (15.5 degree) high-lofted driver. \n\nDon't forget the Odyssey White Steel 2-Ball putter to round it off.
579374
Are you buying new clubs or just a shaft.  You should hit a club with the shaft you want and if your looking at new clubs hit regular and stiff and compare.  The problem is when it comes to stiff and regular there is not an industry standard.  What one company calls stiff another will call regular.  Callaway's stiff shafts is a good example.  They did that because everyone wanted stiff shafts when they should have regular.  A stiffer shaft will help with a slice, but your best bet is to check your grip, stance and make sure you lined up at the target.  Don't just aim down the fairway pick out a target and swing at it.  \nGood Luck
520120
If you shoot in the 90's, then a 10 gram difference in shaft weight will make absolutely no difference in your game. So, the answer to your question is it doesn't matter. However, it may be better on your wallet/purse if you go with the least expensive shaft.
969164
Take the three and test them on a launch monitor with a certified club fitter or PGA pro.  They will be able to tell which one is best for your swing.  They are all good drivers.  The major differences are with trajectory and forgiveness.  A fitter or pro will look at your skill level (be honest about your handicap), swing speed, ball speed, and launch angle......and will be able to advise the best one for you.\n\nOne more thing to try....go on eBay and see if you can find one of the newer TM's for a better price.  I have a TM R7-425 with a 75g V2 shaft and I love it !!!!!
7531
First you need the spike wrench.  A divot tool will sometimes have the prongs built in.  It might take a while, especially if you've worn the shoes a while.  There's going to be dirt and stuff in the treads of the spike so don't give up.  And make sure when you buy new softspikes that they are the right size.  Your local golf store can help you w/ that one.
302113
Hmmmm, It looks like Mr. dmb06851's engineering class has been given some tough home work again. Well, I gave Jenny one so I'll give you one. Again, it depends on the saw style. A regular circular saw would most likely have a Spur or Helical gear in it since the arbor shaft is parallel with the motor shaft. How ever, in a "rip saw", that is still considered a household tool, will have a Helical/bevel/worm gear in it. That's right, A worm-gear drive shaft that's beveled(cone shaped) that rides on the beveled face of the driven gear. Dewalt uses a straight worm gear that rides on the outer circumference of the gear but Makita uses the helical/bevel/worm.