Can a 100 watt incandescent light bulb be used in a 50, 200, 250 watt three-way light socket?
915451
I suppose it should not be a problem.  Only the high voltage should let the bulb fail.  check the voltage rating of the bulb.  The input voltage should not be higher than the voltage indicated in the bulb.
516877
The incandescent light bulb or incandescent lamp is a source of artificial light that works by incandescence, in which an electric current passes through a thin filament, heating it and causing it to emit light. The "bulb" is the glass enclosure around the filament that often contains a vacuum or is filled with a low-pressure noble gas to prevent the filament from burning out due to evaporation at the high temperature.\n\nIncandescent bulbs used to be known as electric lamps, extending the use of a term applied to the original arc "lamps", and in Australia and South Africa they are also called light globes. Because of their relatively poor energy efficiency and yellowish color, incandescent light bulbs are gradually being replaced in many applications by fluorescent lights, high-intensity discharge lamps, LEDs, and other devices.
883981
If you really want to be technical about this then here you go:\n\nHere are the three main consideration you have to follow when making a flashlight:\n\n1.) Amount of current the bulb will draw:\nI standby this clearly to show that current draw will affect the size of the wire that you will use to power up the bulb.  If your bulb draws lots of current from the source, then you will want to use a bigger wire.\n\n2.) Safe wire colors\nSecondly you have to consider safety standards as well.  You can't simply start to wire up the flash light and put the red wire on the negative end of the battery / power source.   You can possibly confuse someone, if they intend to repair it. \nThus in DC CIRCUITS ONLY\nRed = Positive Voltage w/ respect to GND\nBlack = Ground
951468
There are a number of products on the market that will do what you want, and be certified and safe.\n\nMake sure you get a warm LED though: cool white LEDs produce a terrible colour of light.\n\nhttp://www.theledlight.com/120-VAC-LEDbulbs.html
714106
thats totally stupid, it would have had to be a thousand watt bulb at least.
199324
Morris Evers overstates the power of 1865 watts. That's less power than required by 19 100-watt bulbs, hardly enough to light up the whole block. Maybe your whole house.\n\nEither way, the power required by any 2.5 hp device is 2.5 hp. And who is ma?
364172
First of all, you cannot turn a 240 V, 200 A service into a 480 V, 200 A service with a simple 3 phase transformer. In a transformer, power out (roughly) equals power in. If you put 83 kW in, you can't get 166 kW out. You will have your electric company run a new 480 V service for you. From "your side" of the service, you will have to have a licensed, qualified electrician make sure that all breakers, wiring, fuses, and other components are rated for 600 volts, so you may not be able to use your existing breaker box, or even the wire feeding it. All of your existing wire to motors and other 240 / 480 VAC devices should be of ample ampacity, as a motor draws half of the current at 480 than at 240, but again, it may be wired with 300 V wire that does not have insulation rated for 480 V circuits. Another investment would likely be a step-down transformer for your electrical outlets. You won't be able to go phase to neutral anymore, as that would get you 277 VAC (in a 4-wire Y system). Make sure that your qualified electrician complies with all local codes, as well as the NEC. Good luck!
112950
That light bulb was good enough for my father, and my father's father before him.  I don't see why you want me to change it now!
798595
The light-bulb has a tungsten filament, which has electrical resistance.  The voltage applied across the resistance causes a current to flow.  The value of the current is: I = V/R, where I is the current in amps, V is the voltage in volts, and R is the resistance in ohms.  The current flowing through the resistance causes it to heat up--it dissipates power.  The power is: P = I*V, or P = R*I^2, where the power is in watts.  MOST of that power produces heat; in an incandescent bulb only a little goes into light.  Power, incidentally, is energy per unit time.  Watts are Joules/sec, where the joule is the SI standard unit of energy.\n\nAs for the motors, connect them in parallel.  They will each receive the same voltage, and each will draw the amount of current it needs.
989141
That depends on what you call lighting the room. It is plausible I suppose, but I doubt a 3 cm circle of light would have enough light to do it. In order to get normal light for a mid sized room you will need 2400 lumens or more in that 3cm. That is at least 3 light bulbs.  \n\nMirrors are prefectly suitible way of spreading the light. They don't have to be perfect reflectors either. Concave mirrors would probably work better than flat as they would direct the light to the next mirror better.
1082346
The "60 each" part of your question says you don't understand the most basic aspects of electricity.  Voltage is a measurement between two points.  Think of a 12V car battery.  It is 12 volts between the 2 terminals of the battery.  Another analogy:  two things that are 3 feet apart are 3 feet apart, not 1.5 feet each.\n\nDoubling 120 is 240, not 220, but I 220 is a commonly used number, like 110 for 120, but the standard voltages are 120 and 240.\n\nI think the point about doubling when you lose a neutral is talking about what is called a multiwire circuit.  The service into your house is the same, and some appliances like your dryer, have the same thing.  For a single phase case, a multiwire circuit has 2 phase (or hot) conductors and a neutral, with 120 volts between each phase and the neutral and 240 volts between the two phases.  This is created by a secondary winding on the utility transformer that is 240V, with a tap in the center which is grounded.  The tap is half way so it is 120V to each hot conductor.  If the neutral connection is lost, you still have 240V between the hot conductors, and all the 120V things in your house will be put in series.  For example, a couple light fixtures on 2 separate circuit breakers might be on the two opposite phases.  When the neutral is lost to the utility, there is still a connection of the neutral's of the lights, so you'll have the two lights in series and connected to 240V.  Each light will not have 240V though.  If the load on each phase were the same, removing the neutral will still leave 120V on each side.  That isn't likely, so one phase will get more than 120V (and generally cause damage) and the other phase will be less than 120V, and they will add to 240V.  It would be impossible for it to be so unbalanced that one phase would be 240V and the other would be 0.
451714
Watts is a unit of energy. You probably have 100 watt light bulbs in your house. You probably also have 60 and 75 watt bulbs as 100 is pretty bright. If you are running and creating 100 watts you could power a 100 watt bulb--most peole can't do this for long. I don't remember what METS are, but it is some sort of power output also.
975896
Energy is measured in watts, so I assume you mean a voltage source of 200v.\n\n(1)\nThe voltage source of 200v applied to the light bulb (laminar) will be 200v.  Since the light bulb is designed for 130v, the supply voltage will likely blow the bulb.\n\n(2)\nHere you have two possibilities, depending on your circuit.\n(a) If you have a parallel circuit, then each light bulb will have 200v across it, and again the bulbs will likely blow because the voltage is to high.\n(b) If you have a series circuit, the voltage across the light bulbs will be subject to their resistance.  Assuming the resistance is the same, then the voltage will be the same, that is, 100v each.\nThe voltage across each light bulb will be equally proportional to it's resistance ratio.
508033
1.125 KW or 1125 Watt
41971
Cf graph below, lm/W for lighting sources varies between 1 /m/W for candles and over 100 lm/W for modern fluorescent lighting solutions.\n\nIncandescent lamps are around 10 lm/W, i.e. we can get up to 10 times more lm per Watt with other solutions.
935384
There could be several reasons. Too much line voltage, or surges in line voltage, that can occur during lightning storms or when power is restored after an outage, will severely shorten the life of any incandescent lamp.\n\nYou can purchase a "button," to put between the base of the lamp and the socket it screws into, that will increase lamp life by half-wave rectifying the line voltage... essentially discarding half the available power. The penalty is much reduced light output. You can also purchase bulbs with higher rated voltage, for example 130 instead of 120 volts, that will also last longer at lower line voltages (110 - 115 volts).\n\nAnother bulb killer is shock and vibration. It seems like I have to change my porch lights every other week or so because the closing (slamming) of the doors literally shakes them to death. I've tried using so-called "rough service" bulbs and garage door opener bulbs but nothing seems to work well.\n\nThis seems to go along well with someone else's answer that turning the lamp on and off reduces its life. There is a huge thermal shock when a light bulb first lights. Although they are designed with doubly-coiled filaments, delicately supported on wires inside the bulb, the failure mode is always this: the filament breaks.\n\nLess often, but especially for bulbs that burn undisturbed and continuously, the tungsten filament eventually sublimes until it is too thin to support its own weight. This can take considerably longer than the typical 1000 hour life stated on the carton. But one day you turn the light off then back on again and... POOF! it's gone.\n\nIf you can afford the initial cost and don't mind the totally unnatural spectral distribution of the light, compact fluorescent lamps are a better bargain than most incandescent lamps. And soon, white-light emitting diodes (LEDs) will be available with life times of 50,000 hours or more.
370248
This is a nice problem.\n\nSwitch on one of the bulbs and wait for it to heat up. Turn in off and switch another one. Go downstairs, and feel the hotness. The hot bulb corresponds to the first switch and the one that is on the second switch. The one that is off is for the switch that has not been touched.