how can we use the led for some mechanical application project?
924231
use a photo transistor that is triggered by the light emitted from the LED to click some relays or something.
248863
It is cheap LED, if it is giving no problem, ignore it. Else give it to HP support centre for correction if it is in warranty period.
943816
i want to make a system that gets mounter to the passenger front bumber of my car, so when im stuck in traffic and some _hole feel he deserves to drive in the emergency lane, the laser will burst a hole in his tire, and give him a reason to be in the emergency lane.  Some issues with this system is the timing of when to fire the laser, how much power the laser would be.  You dont want to accidentally fire at the wrong thing, so these issues must be addressed first.  I think thats pretty innovative.\n\nwhilst working on my M.E. senior design project, my sponsor (an artist) wanted to make a dynamic hologram depicting a full COLOR rainbow..  Yeah, I know...  It made for great jokes the entire year.
861490
check our pcdj.com they have a new lighting program for pc control with full dmx protocol\n\nits called " DMX"\n\nyou can program the lights to go with certain songs...etc,  its amazing!
664846
extra lighting, make it super bright
1007114
hey there, here's a link I found when i was searching like you as I'm also an electronic engineering student\nhttp://www.commlinx.com.au/microcontroller.htm\nthis link has a lot of simple projects... but the links below have my favorite projects, i didn't make any yet though\nhttp://www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/propclock/propclock.html\nhttp://www.luberth.com/analog.htm\nhave fun and good luck
128346
Ok, this is how you do it.  You need to have the following items: A coil of copper wire, a barrel shaped magnet, a tube, and a bulb.  Take the tube, and this could even be a paper towel cardboard center, and wrap coils of wire around the outside of the tube as many times as you can.  This should cover the outside of the tube.  Now, take the two ends of the wire and connect them to the + and - of the bulb that you will be using.  You must then place the magnet (a barrel magnet is best, but any will do.  The stronger the better) inside the tube, and cover both ends of the tube.  Now, as long as you are shaking the tube lengthwise, and the magnet slides up and down inside the tube, the bulb will shine.  To make a more practical flashlight, you could do one of two things.  Either have an electrical storage device that will hold the charge so you don't have to keep shaking it, or you could rig something up that will keep the magnet moving inside.  Either or both will work.
822817
the above one of solar cell is gr8\nor you can make a model of a wind mill, attach it to a motor and then, artificially, rotate it to produce current in the motor and connect it to a small bulb to show it lighting
943748
use voltage dividers with a transistorized switch.  this method lights  a number of lights matching the input voltage in this case, all the way up the tree to it, rather than just one, so note that.  (7V in gives 7 lamps on).\n\nthe first transistor comes on if the base reaches .7V (2N2222 or so will work).  the next transistor is attached to the base of the first transistor through a voltage divider, the third ....  From the collector stick in a 1V Zener for regulation (make sure you get one that withstands 12v in), and the lights then go from there straight to ground (include a resistor here to limit current, try 15 ohms to start, experiment!).\n\ndecide how many lights you want, divide your final voltage by that number, and that is the voltage per step (here, 1V).  the voltage divider then comes from the voltage per step versus the transistor base ON voltage, across a good sized resistor (say 470 ohms or 1k, whatever you want (watch the current and the power drain here).  in your case, if you use a 470 load resistor on the voltage divider, then the second leg of the divider is (470 / (1V/1V-.7V)) = 141 is about a 130 (less is more on the base!).\n\nrecap:\n\nso the voltage divider goes from the input into the 130, into both the base and the 470, the 470 goes to ground.  the emitter can tie to the input voltage, the collector goes to a 1V Zener, to a 1V lamp, a small resistor, and ground.\n\nthe other stages stack right onto this.  the input still goes to the 130, then to the base and the 470, the 470 ties to the base of the previous stage.  the emitter again goes to the input voltage, and the collector goes to a 1V Zener, a 1V lamp, and a small resistor to ground.  sorry, i can't attach a picture here.
428701
I have found that the best way to find out is to just sit down with a flashlight and look at the motherboard.  Where you plug in the LEDs will usually be grouped together, you can just experiment with it and see which configuration works, and which doesn't.  This will not hurt the computer because the LEDs are not like circuits, that can be damaged by wrong polarity, voltage, etc.  So, just plug 'em in until they work.\n\nEdit:  Hey my man, I found the site with the motherboard, apparently it doesn't exist, but this one, I believe is set up the same way, so here is this link to the manual page.  The picture for the Led's is on page 2-17 in the manual.  It tells exactly where to put all of the LEDs and switches.\n\nEdit:  Sorry about the slow response, I went out of town, the address is: http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/download/dld/spt_dld_file_record.php?folder=3&kind=1&name=E6580v1.0.exe\n\n\nPeter
325557
you could actually use the cable, you can also buy a cable tester, where you plug both ends in, run the test and some status LED's will give you the results\n\nhttp://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=45778&doy=6m4&C=SEO&U=Template
120823
This is a 18-pin microcontroller to control the moving display in 7X60 matrix of LEDs. this is programable.\n\nyou can get more in formation from here. this is manual of this prodct..\n\nhttp://www.zilog.com/docs/z8/appnotes/an_msgdisp.pdf\n\nplease check
310889
get some batteries, get some wires, and a very small lightbulb and a socket. So it should look like this:\nBattery(+) ... wire ... paperclip ... lightbulb ... wire ... (-)Battery
540154
in google, try:\n\neasy LED projects\n\nor\n\nLED firefly art
1039537
sure, need more info plz. what exactly u r looking for? tech help or project idea?
360056
I'd forget the light sensors, way more complicated than is needed. You would need to compare voltage levels in the receiver(for infra red) or use a schmitt trigger (for a LDR[Light dependant resistor]) and there is a simpler way. Pressure pad on the floor. Then just use a 4017 counter chip (It's CMOS and i'm not sure of the number, it's been 2 years since I did electronics)\n\nMind you, depends what it is for and how accurate it is needed. It won't be quite as accurate as a infra red sensor(which would probably be the best method)as people could step over it if it is not that big but even infra red will be confused if two people walk through the door side by side.\n\nThe only method I can think of that is foolproof(besides a computer, a camera and some recognition software) would be a guy with a counter, but not so practicle.
181250
The light will be on/off