how to grease a byke?
343634
well u have ball barings were the handle bars conect to the the frame and u have them under neath, were the forks connect to the frame, u take a wrench, pop the nut of the top then you pull the th forks and the handle bar out away from ecother, but be careful, watch the way the barings are, so you dont lose them, then after you grease them you just put it back together the way it came apart.
373645
at any automotive parts store....ask for a fan belt lubricant...in the meantime, use a bar of soap
960798
The pedals should not be a problem to lubricate, just lubricate with graphite or other lubricant recommended by the manufacture of the exercise bike. (graphite is safer as it does not get clogged up with dirt).
111096
I dont know much about bikes, but it sounds like you probably need to oil it...
356068
warm compress and some ib brofin then pop that sucker
380005
Degreaser is great for your chain and other such mechanical parts. When you're spraying it, be careful not to contaminate your discs (if you've got disc brakes) or the brake blocks if you're running V brakes. Hose your bike down with a low pressure hose, or use a clean cloth. I wouldn't use a pressure washer as you can push dirt further into bearings and cause more damage. Dry everything as much as possible, don't forget to relube the moving parts. Dry or wet oil, depending on when and where you're using your bike. WD40 is also pretty good on chains and some bearings as it pushes the water out and gives an element of protection. Don't use too much grease or oil as it'll hold the dirt and make your bike harder to clean the next time round.
296430
I recommend a visit to your local bike shop to check out the cool stuff they have to maintaining your bike. I am a fan of the Park Tool Chain Cleaner which simply clamps around your chain and cleans as you back pedals your bike while on the repair stand. \n\nAs far as the actual cleaner is concerned, I would commend a biodegradable solution or something like the Pedros orange solution. This does a great job. \n\nFor chain lubes, if it is a road bike I would use the lightest chain lube possible. That way it won't be as likely a chance to get the rookie mark on the side of your leg. If you are mountain biking and getting into the mud, I'm a fan of both the T9 stuff and White Lightening. There is a theory behind both lubes which are a wax base which you will have to read up on to determine if it is right for your type of riding. If you are up in the Northwest (Washington State) where it rains a lot I would recommend heavier stuff like the Pedros Mountain Bike lube. That stuff rocks in the wet. \n\nProbably too much information but have fun on the bike.
1012936
If it's totally frozen with rust, you'll need a new drivetrain. Proper storage will avoid problems like that.\n\nIf it's just surface rust, you can loosen it by spraying it with a penetrating liquid like WD-40 and scrubbing it with a toothbrush... not one you're planning to use on teeth again! Once that's done, apply a Teflon-based chain lubricant, available from bike stores. Don't use oil on the chain because it will attract dirt. The chain lube will help the chain shed water and avoid rust in the future.
567239
As far as the grease, trust me, WD-40 takes it right off. My husband is a trucker and gets 5th wheel grease all over, WD40 takes it off. As far as the gum, the other person had a good idea with freezing it off with ice.
1114504
Cook a few pieces of bacon in each skillet, pot, and pan every once in a while.  After the grease has cooled but is still in a liquid form, coat the pan with the grease, drain off the excess but don't wash it out. \n Simply wipe it thoroughly clean with a few paper towels and store each one in a separate paper bag.  Keep them in a reasonably dry place like a food\npantry or perhaps the cabinet where you keep your other pots and pans (think dry). Where ever you decide to keep them, give them a check peek every 2 or 3 months. \n      ... Good luck and have fun camping  :)  ...
337022
Baking soda and peroxide. Make a paste out of it and brush once a week.
1165646
What you need is a plastic bucket (unless you're willing to clean your clubs in a bathroom or kitchen sink), a mild dishwashing detergent, an old toothbrush or other brush with plastic bristles, and an old towel for drying.Squirt a little of the dishwashing liquid into the bottom, then add warm water to create suds. Make sure the water is warm, not too hot (very hot water can loosen the ferrule on golf clubs).\nYou only need enough water in the bucket to cover the heads of your irons\nAfter 1-2 minutes of soaking time, take each club in turn and use an old toothbrush (or other plastic-bristled brush) to clean out the grooves on the clubface. This is the most important step in cleaning your clubs - removing all dirt and debris from the grooves. \nAlso drag the brush across the sole of the iron and over the back of the clubhead, removing dirt, grass and other debris. \n\nA soft-bristled brush should work fine. If you've allowed dirt to build up in the grooves and harden over time, you may need to allow more soaking time and then use a stiff-bristled brush. Never use a wire-bristled brush during cleaning.\n\nUse your old towel to dry off the clubhead. Also drag the towel up the shaft of the club. This will remove any loose debris from the shaft and also ensure that the shaft doesn't go back into your bag wet.\nNever submerge persimmon woods in water. It's a good idea not to submerge metal woods, either, because they usually have a nice, glossy finish.\nInstead, quickly dip metal woods into the sudsy water, rub with a moist cloth, then dry with a dry cloth. Use a moist cloth to clean off persimmon clubheads, then dry immediately.\n\nUse a soft-bristled brush, if necessary, to clean out the grooves on woods.
420638
You can order it online here:\n\nhttp://workingperson.com/products/85_101/1/974/Leather_Cleaner:_Bear_Grease_Conditioner_and_Waterproofing.html&source=aw?gclid=CL-Ii-L1xoQCFQIRLAod0jyJMQ
644265
You could apply Singer Sewing Machine oil to parts that have rusted.  You can find a convenient little plastic tube of this at Kroger grocery stores and many other places.\n\nIt is also possible to pull out the inside of the shift cable, oil it with that and put it back together. \n\nFor a cable that runs "bare" steel down part of the bicycle:\nIt is possible to lubricate this by simply sliding the outer part of the cable off of what you want to oil.  Pull it free from where it attaches to the frame and slide it over the bare part of the cable.  Oil all of the steel cable.  \n\nFor a completely solid shift cable:\nThe shift cable is 1) unscrewed from the rear derailleur,  2) housing (outer jacket) is removed (may have to remove a small aluminum cap from the derailleur end of the cable), 3) steel inner cable is oiled, 4) any kinks removed from the cable, 5) outer jacket is reinstalled, 6) clamp the end back onto the derailleur where it came from.\n\nIf this doesn't work at all, remove the rear wheel and check to make sure that the freewheel (5 gear cluster) doesn't turn both ways.  One way should go clickity clickity, and the other way should attempt to turn the wheel.  \n\nWith the bike upside down, check to be sure that your rear derailleur moves back and forth whenever you move the shifter lever.  If it does not, check the cable again, spray the rear derailleur with WD40 (don't get that stuff near a tire!) and you may need to purchase an inexpensive shifter cable from your bike shop.\n\nIf your freewheel (5 gear cluster on the rear hub) does turn both ways by hand, then it is in need of replacement.  One particularly nice option is to purchase a replacement rear wheel (5 or 6 speed rated for screw/thread on freewheel) in the right size from bikepartsusa.com or amazon.com's Niagra Cycle.  \nYou'll also need a screw-on 5 or 6 speed freewheel.  While freewheels are extraordinarily difficult to remove, they can be installed as easily as putting the lid back on the peanut butter jar, and you can request by phone that the two parts be pre-installed.  \nThis option ($25 to $30 wheel, $15 to $19 freewheel/gears) is about the cost of getting the old one repaired at a bike shop.  \n\nWhat do you do if the rear derailleur doesn't move when you move the shift lever, replace the shift cable, and already tried WD40?  Don't worry, quite a selection of Shimano's entry level derailleurs still come with the old fashioned "claw" mount, and they work great!  A Tourney TX30 with hanger mount or TX50 with hanger mount is about $8 to $10 and is compatible with older bikes.  \nYou'll need a chain tool ($3) and a Shimano 7 speed chain $(12) to complete this installation yourself.  Remove the old chain and old rear derailleur.  Size the new chain (add an inch if your new derailler has a longer "cage" like the TX70 Mega Range that works with 6-speed 13-34 Mega-Range freewheel for mountain gears--for both, add two inches), install the new derailleur, put the new chain on, insert the too-long looking Shimano connector pin (using the chain tool, pin goes--pointy end first), and snap off the excess end of the connector pin.  This is all in the directions that come with Shimano's 7 speed chains #'s HG50 and HG70.  \n\nSuitable oils for rusted bike components include Singer Sewing Machine Oil, 3-n-1 oil, and motorcycle chain oil.  Do not use car oil!  WD40 works in an emergency, but it can dissolve rubber tires and shift cable jackets.  After an initial break-in period, even these oils will attract dirt.  Remove this with dark green formula Simple Green household cleaner, rinse with water and dry with a hair-dryer or towel.  Reapply lightweight oil or use Mountain Bike wax-based chain lube if you want it to stay clean more easily or live on gravel roads.  \n\nHave fun, and remember that by removing the rear wheel, you can more easily find out what part isn't working right.\n\nfor
221514
Clean, melt, and remold
876122
SOME LUBE  http://www.boybutterlubes.com/ lol
623257
Baking soda and peroxide. Make a paste and brush once a week with it.