What kind of glue should i use to glue the stock to the action of of my .22 rifle?
355089
It's hard to glue wood to metal and make it stick dependably. It should be bolted or screwed on. How was it attached originally? Duplicate the original attachment as closely as possible. You don't want it to come apart when you're in the field, or range shooting.
355318
yes the spring tension should be adjustable see a gunsmith or read a book also   wipe all the parts that move with a jewelers clothe and they will move smoother together thets an old army shooting team trickdont forgit to oil up the parts that you  fine tune  good luck
868312
You'll have to take it to a gunsmith...Shouldn't cost much, if anything.
525823
Volquartsen makes a good receiver, regardless of what metal it's made of. If you're shooting off a bench, then it matters very little how heavy the receiver is. Get the stainless in that case; it's less expensive and will last longer. Of course, "longer" is measured in tens of thousands of rounds.\n\nBy the way, make sure you get the threaded receiver and marry it to a threaded barrel if you're talking about a 10/22 receiver. The original 10/22 is held together with this wedge that pulls the barrel into the receiver, but it's not a great fit. Threaded barrels take care of any slop and really improve your accuracy.
301785
I don't know of a website but it's not hard to clean, there are books but first you remove the spring then the charging handle then the bolt comes out and I think the trigger assembly just pops in and out by pulling on the trigger guard which will allow you to seperate the barrel assembly from the stock. I hope this will help you.
959196
Try Brownells, ive used it before with really great results. heres a link to get it\nhttp://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1145&title=TEFLON%2FMOLY+OVEN+CURE%2C+GUN+FINISH
344855
I want something that has KICK!!  I love it when a revolver feels like it is going to jump out of your hand!  Try a 12 Gauge shotgun with 00 Buckshot or 3'' Magnum Turkey loads if you want more KICK!  Or how about a .300 Weatherbee Magnum without a muzzle-break?  If you want sustained kick, join the military and shoot an fully-auto!  (Or get a friend that is the armorer and see if he will let you shoot one! -It's been done before, but don't tell anyone I told you!)\n\nThough I sometime like the methodical, precision behind a smaller caliber rifle, like a .22 or a semi-auto SKS with 30 rounds clip.  Just lay down and pick of targets (inanimate ones) real simple like and hardly move.\n\nCool Question! Later.
412434
im stuck on my ole' 67 remington 1100 semi-auto 12 with modified choke, all originall parts all i have had to do is clean it. they still make it today, but with some changes. ribbed barrell, extra ball sight halfway down the barrel, and now comes with 3" chamber, and screw-in chokes. but ill never have one cause i think mine is going to out-live me
946078
Bound's hubby here:\n\nYou pose a VERY interesting question. The very basic answer to your question is NO, for several reasons.\n\nFirst, since your rifle is not already drilled and tapped, you have either a commercial rifle that was made prior to the 1970s or a military surplus rifle. \n\nSecond, what many of the respondents overlooked, is that the receiver on rifles is "heat-treated", meaning it was hardened to withstand the pressures generated by fired cartridges. Without de-tempering the receiver (or spot de-tempering) the receiver ring and bridge, you will destroy every drill bit you attempt to use. This comes from my gunsmith of over 60 years experience! Once the receiver has been de-tempered, drilled, and tapped, you have to re-temper the affected areas to restore the heat-treated hardness of the metal. \n\nI will presume you have neither the equipment, knowledge, or experience to perform these pre-requisite tasks, so you will not be able to drill and tap your rifle for scope bases. \n\nThis is a task you would best leave to an experienced gunsmith who has done this job before ... not someone you will pay to learn on your rifle. Considering the replacement cost of your rifle, this is not a job you want to screw up!
924512
Bound's hubby here:\n\nBoth the .223 and .224 bullets are considered .22s. The basic difference between the two bullets is 1/1000" in diameter. The diameter of the .22 will matter very little, since you will set the bullet into a sabot, which will be loaded into the charged case. I am presuming you will be reloading either .308, .30-06, or .30-30 cartridges with saboted .22s.
990497
You can buy glue that is made specifically for body boards, and also for wetsuits.  Most surfshops that sell wetsuits should probably sell this.
39904
I would suggest getting a color gaurd rifle.  Although made of wood, you should not have much trouble with breakage, unless you are practicing on concrete.  I would suggest practicing in your yard.  \n\nBuying a Garand with most parts is going to run you in the 500 to 800 dollar range at most gun shops, and this is for a worn used rack grade piece.  A collectors piece is more in the 1200 to 1800 dollar range.\n\nSecondly, for your purposes, you need no internal mechanisms, as you are not practicing firing the rifle, only spinning it.  \n\nI think a high school color gaurd rifle, weighted with metal if it is not heavy enough, would be more than sufficient. \n\nLastly, the U.S. Rifle M1 was made by Springfield, and Springfield is a company not a particular rifle.
814595
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, before you do anything ... is the rifle loaded?\n\nSecond, it sounds as though the bolt body may be bent or damaged from a previous round fired (perhaps an improperly handloaded round?), and the bolt started to collapse. This is not a receiver problem! A gunsmith should not have to "re-mill" the receiver. And, don't use WD-40 ... I have had bad luck with it and guns.\n\nYour wisest move is to first call Browning and talk with them ... they will suggest that you send the rifle to them for inspection and repair. Take the rifle and its packaging to your local gunsmith for shipment back to Browning ... you can no longer do this yourself! \n\nAs an aside ... I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 ... and they replaced the bolt ... plain and simple. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer!
410250
depends on use \nfor paper just cheap solids will work or if ur into extreme accuracy try black hills ammo\nbut if for hunting or self defence go with fedral hydra shocks +p ammo
788028
I would check out these links.  They should have several options to fit your needs.\n\nhttp://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/2,213.html\n\nhttp://www.montanavintagearms.com/mva_scope.html\n\nhttp://www.lautard.com/RHO/\n\nhttp://www.e-gunparts.com/\nIf you can't find just what you want on the website, use this contact info.  They have a much more extensive inventory than is listed on the site.\nhttp://www.e-gunparts.com/cantfind.asp\n\nGood Luck.
752499
Wolf sells surplus 223 rds but I would recommend against them. I used them in my bushmaster and it was freaking hard to clean. Also, the gun started jamming after about 40 rounds. They have a lacquer coating on them that gets hot and gooey in the barrel.
265107
go talk to you local gun shop/repair shop. (not the pawn shops)\nand/or talk to a competition shooter.