What is the solvent of two parts EPOXY.(Araldite)?
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1. Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength. Better protective coatings are available but not as common, field applied, brush-on, roll-on, or trowel-on coatings.\n\n2. Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard ‘plastic'.\n\n3. Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are topcoated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.\n\n4. After the two epoxy parts are combined there is a working time (pot life) during which the epoxy can be applied or used. Generally the pot life will be anywhere from minutes to one hour or longer. At the end of the potlife the mixture becomes very warm (or even dangerously hot) and quickly begins to harden.\n\n5. Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.\n\n6. In theory, a temperature change of 18 degrees F. will double or half the potlife and cure time of an epoxy. Higher temperatures will lower the viscosity (thin) the epoxy, but also reduce the working time a person has to apply the epoxy. Spreading out the mixed epoxy instead of keeping it concentrated in a bucket or container will extend the potlife.\n\n7. Generally epoxies become too thick and cure too slowly to be applied at temperatures below 50 or 60 degrees F. Temperatures in the 60s, 70s, or low 80s, are best. After the epoxy has cured, it can handle temperatures well below zero degrees F.\n\n8. Epoxies will begin to soften at about 140 degrees F, but will reharden when the temperature is reduced. For common epoxies this temperature is approximate upper end of working temperature range of epoxies. Special high temperature epoxies do exist, however.\n\n9. By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.\n\n10. There are special epoxy formulations that have increased chemical resistance, increased temperature resistance, the ability to be applied underwater, (also click here) and enhance resistance to yellowing and UV damage.\n\n11. Epoxies are expensive, but there are ways to ‘water down' the epoxies with less expensive solvents an/or non-solvent thinners. These cheaper, diluted epoxies do not perform as well as the more expensive, unaltered epoxies. Diluted down epoxies are especially common with ‘floor epoxies' where pricing pressures are especially strong. To a large degree you do ‘get what you pay for'. A common non-solvent thinner is a chemical known as nonyl phenol. This chemical is sometimes used in small amounts to make epoxy mixing ratios easy whole numbers. However, cheap epoxies may contain large amounts of this inexpensive chemical. Check your epoxy's MSDS for references to nonyl phenol.\n\n12. Another clue of a cheap epoxy is if it requires haz-mat shipping. Generally the better resin systems can be shipped non-haz-mat. The exceptions are special high temperature and/or more UV resistant epoxies, which often require haz-mat shipping.\n\n13. Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied), and crystalization of eith
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If you mean by TLC or HPLC, that would depend on the stationary phase and the eluting solvent.  Sorry - not enough info.
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Thin down the epoxy in a volatile solvent (acetone) so you can dip easily, the solvent will evaporate and you'll have your coating.
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PHENOLIC EPOXY MARINE COATING, ZINC SILICATE COATING , STAINLESS STEEL COATINGS , MARINELINE COATING.\nDetails are at: http://www.ship-technology.com/contractors/corrosion/advanced_polymer/
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NA2SO4,KOH,AGCL,CA(NO3)2 ARE SOLUBLE.AND HG2BR2 AND CDS IS INSOLUBLE.
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try \nTHUNDERBIRD EPOXY\nENDURANCE BOW FINISH.\nlink below.
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Read at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium
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Yup, non-polar solvents.  If acetone, alkanes, or toluene don't work, then go with petroleum ether(hist. ligroin) that dissolves alot of things.
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silicone, carbon, nitrogen, sulphur ect. basically eny  elements from grp 4 - grp 7, all group 3 elements r amphoteric( both acid n base) n grp 1 n2 oxides r basic
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Copper C-145000\n\nCopper  Includes Ag + Te  \nPhosphorus  Other deoxidizers may be used  \nTellurium  0.4 - 0.7
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all kinds of organi materials
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Dichloromethane will dissolve most plastics except for PTFE, PFA, or FEP. if you could find a transparent plastic coated with any of these, it might work.
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You might be able to contact Akron Coating and Adhesives.  They have announced its new line of hot melt adhesives designed to provide a strong bond between a variety of metals and thermoplastics such as AES’s Santoprene ™. Thermoplastic\nhttp://www.akroncoating.com/products/Detail.aspx?id=28\n\nOr choose from this list of manufacturers, distributors and service companies : http://www.thomasnet.com/products/adhesive-coating-services-392464-1.html
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ALUMINUM ACETATE BASIC \n\nFormula: Al2O(C2H3O2)4.H2O
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try the site http://vivisimo.com it's a meta search engine\ntype in "energetic polymers" and you will get your results!
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analize an existing polymer with as many properties of the ones you are looking for, determine the formula ( possibly use a mass spectrometer for the recipe,)  experiment with the atomic structure of the elements in the formula. wouldn't it be great if you could manipulate the structure at subatomic level, i.e. at levels below protons and neutrons like quarks.\ntry changing the formula ( recipe?) at its basic level, with different proportions of at least carbon and hydrogen, possibly adding 'alloying' elements into the atomic structure.
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I don't understand 100% your question. But one of the best sources of information for any kind of chemicals is NIST.\nBelow you have some data on polyethylene.\n\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Mask=4#Thermo-Phase\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Mask=2#Thermo-Condensed\nhttp://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=C9002884&Units=SI&Type=SS\n\nGood luck!