adsorption on polymer treated clay?
352887
Search at these sites.  It can be done, but it is usually not economical.\n\nhttp://www.scirus.com/srsapp/\n\nhttp://www.scienceresearch.com/search/
677687
There are many things that can be used including alum and ferric salts.  The best thing and the first thing I fix at a plant is to make sure the rest of the treatment system is working properly.  90% of the time, that alone will cause a decrease in the use of polymer and allows the use of a mineral salt treatment.  I do this work around the world.  The main use of the organic polymers for coagulation is simplicity of operation, cost, but mostly good salemanship.  You can cover up many bad operations by adding more polymer.\n\nGum will probably not work.  There are many things tried, but most of them do not overcome the good operations and cost issues.
1172374
You could try passing it through carbon, but that may also remove iron.  You would need to try it with known solutions.\nYou may need to go to AA or ICP analysis.
1116509
analize an existing polymer with as many properties of the ones you are looking for, determine the formula ( possibly use a mass spectrometer for the recipe,)  experiment with the atomic structure of the elements in the formula. wouldn't it be great if you could manipulate the structure at subatomic level, i.e. at levels below protons and neutrons like quarks.\ntry changing the formula ( recipe?) at its basic level, with different proportions of at least carbon and hydrogen, possibly adding 'alloying' elements into the atomic structure.
980626
ChemDraw from CambridgeSoft Corporation may be help you. Look at www.cambridgesoft.com
208626
the side wall on the roll cage should be 5/6 mill thick that should adsorb most of the impact that's what we use  to build land rover trailers and rock claimers it will have to be mild steel where you from\n     \nwolf4128
1035975
Small area:  Use paint remover (paint stripper for furniture).\nPaint remover (the original kind) uses methylene chloride to soften the paint so it can be removed easily.  Problem:  methylene chloride evaporates very quickly.  Possible solution:  after applying the stripper, put a plastic polyethlyene sheet over the paint to keep the methylene chloride from evaporating so quick (work on cool days/evenings too).  Methylene chloride works on epoxy based paints which are normally chemically resistant.  Methylene chloride is becoming harder to get because of VOC requirements and CFC considerations.\n\nLarge area:  use sodium hydroxide (lye) or Drano crystals or similar caustic.  **Concentrated** (saturated solution) lye will soften the paint so it can be brushed away.  Its less expensive than paint stripper.\n\nPLEASE READ CAREFULLY:  \n\nYou are going to have a disposal problem - don't wash it down the drain or you may be fined.  The EPA monitors the drains for polluters.  \n\nThese are very hazardous chemicals that require respirators, adequate air, protective chemical equipment (rubber gloves, face shields), the area needs to be isolated so a pet or kids don't come in contact with the chemicals.  If you won't take these precautions or don't know what you're doing, call a professional.  Truly.\n\nFor the methylene chloride residue: pickup the old paint residue and let it dry out.  Then you can dispose of the residue in plastic bags in the garbage (dry paint is considered non-hazardous in most areas, but not all - contact your waste management service).\n\nThe lye will soften the paint and can be dried out, but even the dried crystals can be hazardous if water is re-introduced - you may be able to neutralize the waste with a weak acid like vinegar to neutral pH, and then dry it out and dispose of it.  You'll need some pH strips to test for neutral pH.  Dried, neutral pH paint can be disposed the same way as regular dried paint - the exact method depends on where you live and your waste disposal service.  Most areas have free disposal days for hazardous waste if you are otherwise required to pay.\n\nBE CAREFUL with powerful chemicals and USE PRECAUTIONS so you don't hurt yourself, or others.\n\nAnother method: Sandblast.  Look up a sandblast service in the Yellow pages and they'll come out with their portable blasting unit.  Paint removal is their job.  I can't advise further because I don't know the constraints, paint type, substrate, enclosed area, etc.  \n\nMost paints are acid-resistant to some degree, so muratic isn't effective; most paints ARE vulnerable to alkaline solutions (but not all).  Concrete is an alkaline material, so won't be attacked to the same degree as with nuratic acid.  Muratic acid will attack and eat up the concrete (maybe that's what you want, but probably not).
85904
The response of polymers differs from one to another and beyond doubt it is vary complicated. Fortunately there are some references modeling this behavior. If you want more on this send me your questions at david_blear@yahoo.com
1125927
Bluetac (and, for that matter, "3M Clay Cleaning Bars") are made from a mixture of polyisobutylene, resin and fillers, primarily calcium carbonate.\n\nIt gets stickier the more you use it because it slowly absorbs moisture and oils during handling.
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It´s possible, first step is settle the water. Then water pass to biological treatment to low DQO. You could sell the oil to refinery and they cracking the mix again to break the chains into other materials.
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clay, crabs, trees, oysters,water
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IT DEPENDS THE SURFACE.\n\nNADAL PROVED THE BEST ONLY IN CLAY SO FAR.\n\nROGER THE BEST IN REST.
534120
Try searching on http://Americanplasticscouncil.org\nOr on http://www.HDPE.com
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Polythene bags..\n\nethylene on polymerization will give polythene material..\n\nThats it!
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The best water retention capacity is\n1) Clay\n2)potting soil\n3)sand\n4) dirt.
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Any polar, organic, acidic solution would work the best.\n\nThe acid (try 2M sulfuric) will hydrolyze the bonds in the polymer, breaking the foam down into styrene monomers.  The polar organic solvent (try acetone) will then dissolve the monomers (like dissolves like!)
1091814
You can use a PSA system (Pressure swing Adsorption) to purify Nitrogen to about 98.5% from air. The rest will be Argon - it's difficult to remove Argon from air using a PSA system. Lurgi has a system to do this. It is also best suited for fairly low volumes. The adsorption works at room temperatures, but high pressures. When the adsorbent is saturated it is regenerated by lowering the pressure in what is termed a regeneration cycle.