wut golf clubs to use and at wut time should i use them??
343171
This is for a beginner You can adjust the chart by finding out what you hit 100 yards and adding 8 to 10 yards to each club \n\nThis is the yardage for a beginner golfers\n1 Wood (drive) – 180 Yards\n2 Wood –170 Yards\n5 Wood –160 Yards\n4 Iron –150 Yards\n5 Iron –140 Yards\n6 Iron –130 Yards\n\n7 Iron – 120 yards\n8 Iron – 110 yards\n9 Iron – 100 yards\nPitching Wedge –90 yards
779576
Stratman: \n\nThese answers are partially correct. As a general rule, the faster you swing the stiffer shaft you should use. But there is another important factor: The amount of 'load' you place on the shaft. This is hard to explain but let me take a stab at it, I'll try to put it in layman terms. \n\nWe'll take two professional golfers. \n\n1) Nick Price\n2) Fred Couples\n\nBoth generate swing speeds in excess of 100 miles per hour. However Price has a much shorter, faster swing. He 'loads' the shaft much more dramatically than Freddy who has a kind of slow tempo which 'loads' the shaft much slower. Fred probably does not need as stiff a shaft as Price does. Keep in mind I'm just generalizing, I don't know what stiffness Fred and Nick actually use.\n\nYou can look at it this way: take a 12 inch piece of twine in your hand, hold it straight down, now rock it back and forth slowly, like a pendulum....see how the string stays fairly straight when you swing it slowly....the 'load' on the swing is not great when the rythm is slow.....now speed it up and you'll see the twine is much more volatile....there is a much greater 'load' on the string when the rythm is increased.\n\nI hope this helps....if you hit it 275 with a driver, in general you should probably use a stiff shaft, but if you have a real long, tempo oriented swing, you might enjoy more 'feel' with a regular shaft. My advice would be to try a couple on the range and see how you hit them. \n\nGood luck!
218495
If Play it Again Sports is in your area, go check them out.  Used clubs on the cheap.\nhttp://www.playitagainsports.com/PLAYITAGAINSPORTS/myheadline.asp?S=7312&PubID=4332&P=3979\n\nOr E-Bay\nhttp://sporting-goods.search.ebay.com/golf-clubs_Clubs_W0QQsacatZ115280
23892
Get a buckets and fill it with soap and hot water. You can use a scrub brush if you want to, but I usually just rub them around in my hands. Then dry them with a towel. Presto! \n\nThis is a good time to throw your clubs in and scrub them clean as well ;)
675041
Woods – \nHave you tried the new Hybirds out?  If not hit a 3 and 4.  They take the place of long irons.  I think you will like it, almost everyone does.  \n\nWedges – Your wedge should be a 52 or 54 and you have the 60.  I suggest you get a 56 or 58.  Check the length, I purchased a Ben Hogan SI and it was the same length as my 9 iron, so if went just as far as the wedge.  When it comes to bounce if you 60 has a lot, do the opposite with the new one.  \nGood Luck
1162946
Try the Tour Edge Exotics driver.  It may be expensive, but it is supposed to be one of the best drivers available.  Tour Edge clubs in general, are excellent but somewhat underrated in the US, even though word of mouth is changing this quickly.  Their fairway woods which have been out for a few years now and have achieved a reputation for being the best woods available.\n\nGive the Exotics driver a try at a range and see what you think.
517910
Try to use stiff shaft, I used to use Regular shaft but after I have changed the shaft to stiff, I can hit it much \nfurther than before and also straighter, so go can change your shaft immediately.\nHAPPY GOLFING!
20738
PartyCrasher:\n\nThese answers are well thought out. But I would recommend a bit different set makeup for you. \n\nIrons: 5-Sand Wedge (56 degree SW).\n\nMake sure to get a cavity backed set, something with offset. If you tell the people at the golf store that you're looking for a forgiving set of irons that's cavity backed and offset, they'll be able to help you. \n\nWoods and hybrids:\n\nGet an 18 degree 5 wood, a 21 degree 7 wood, and two hybrid clubs (these are a cross between a wood and iron) Hybrids: 22 and 25 degree. These are much easier to hit and much more forgiving than long irons. They will make the game easier for you starting out. \n\nGet at least a 13 degree driver, with as big a head as possible, to make it easier to hit. Make sure you get it from a major manufacturer, the off brands may look the same, but their quality control is terrble. \n\nAny 34 or 35 inch putter that looks good to you, one that looks like a Ping Anser is a good choice. Almost all the major manufacturers have a design that copies the original Ping putter. \n\nThis leaves you with thirteen clubs. You can add one more later because the limit is 14, but I would start with this and see how it goes. This set will not be cheap, you will probably spend over 1000.00 easily. \n\nYou might want to see what irons and woods you like at the golf store and then check ebay and see if you can get them used. Just make sure they're not too beat up!! \n\nThe January 2006 issue of Golf Magazine has an article that I referenced for this recommendation, pick it up and use it as a guide to begin your club purchases! \n\nHave fun!!!
1120971
You don't want to spend too much money on a beginner's set because you should outgrow them in a year or two anyway. However, you definitely want forgiving clubs which means cavity-backs. \n\nNow on to golf clubs. For beginners, I would recommend the Mizuno MX-17s. They are very forgiving. They have recently been replaced by the MX-900, so you should be able to get a good deal on the 17s new. Mizuno's are famous for the softness of their forged irons, and even though the 17's are cast not forged, they come close to the forged irons in feel. When it comes to quality, Mizuno irons cannot be beat.\n\nAnother popular beginner's set is the Pings. The new G5s are quite pricey, but you may be able to find a used set or perhaps a G2 set for a good price. The Pings are also well known for being forgiving, but they just looked too ugly for me. I couldn't stand the look of them while I still find myself admiring my MX-17s after a full year. \n\nThe Callaways, imo, are just as pricey as the Pings without their forgiveness. They don't look as good as the Mizunos either.\n\nIf you are just experimenting with golf and not sure if you will stick with it, go with the much cheaper 2nd tier brands. These include Tommy Armour, Ben Hogan, Adams, etc. They should be almost as good if not as good as the big brands but at a fraction of the price. If you decide to stick with the game after a year, you can always upgrade later.\n\nAbout fitting, it is certainly important.  Most golf stores will fit clubs for you for free if you purchase them from their store.\n\nAbout shafts, unless a golf store measures your swing speed at 95mph or higher, go with Regular Flex shafts, not the Stiff Flex. So many people have an ego issue and go with the stiff when regular is most appropriate for the majority of players.  As a beginner, I would doubt that your swing speed would be fast enough to warrant stiff flex, so don't let anyone talk you into stiff without measuring your speed first.  (And don't buy the "you'll grow into it" line ... buy what is best for you now.)\n\nRegarding woods, you wont need them if you are a true beginner.  If you have a pretty comfortable and consistent swing with your irons, then you'd be ready to move on to woods if you're not there already.\n\nHope this helps!
114766
Depends on how long you have been playing golf and how much money to spent.  New to the game and only played 3 years or less and plan to work on your game?  Hold off and wait to you improve to a level your happy with, then get a set that fits your game.  Now if you have played for years, have at least 2 people fitt you for clubs first.  PGA free Club fitting month at local golf course coming soon
786392
Which Type of Club Shaft Best Suits Your Game?\nShould you go with steel shafts or graphite shafts? What are the differences between the two? Is one type of shaft better for you than another?\n\nThese are questions that many newcomers to golf - and even many golfers who have played for years - have in mind when they go shopping for a new set of clubs.\n\nIn the "old days," the general feeling was that recreational golfers, mid- and high-handicappers, should use graphite, while the better players, low-handicappers, would stick with steel. That's not necessarily true anymore, however. Even PGA Tour golfers can be seen using graphite shafts. In 2004, Tiger Woods switched from a steel shaft to a graphite shaft in his driver (most pros made that switch even earlier).\n\nAs with every type of golf equipment, the key is to try out both kinds and determine which type best fits your swing. \n\nBut there are differences between steel and graphite that could help you choose one over the other.\nSome Keypoints\n• Steel shafts are less expensive than graphite, so the same set of clubs will cost less with steel shafts than with graphite shafts.\n\n• Steel shafts were once considered much more durable than graphite. That's not so much the case anymore. Quality graphite shafts will last as long as you do so long as they are not chipped, cracked, or the laminate-seal is not peeling. Steel shafts will last forever so long as they are not bent, rusted or pitted.\n\n• Graphite shafts transmit fewer vibrations up the shaft to the golfer's hands than do steel shafts. This might be good or bad, depending on your skill and your desire. You might want that added feedback that steel shafts offer - or you might be tired of your hands stinging so much on mis-hit shots.\n\nThe Most Important Point\nThe biggest and by far most important difference between steel and graphite shafts is this: graphite shafts are lighter than steel shafts. So clubs that have graphite shafts will be lighter than otherwise identical clubs that have steel shafts.\n\nAccording to clubmaking and equipment guru Tom Wishon, the difference in weight between graphite shafts and steel shafts will translate, for most golfers, into an additional 2-4 mph of swing speed with graphite. And that could mean an extra 6-12 yards of distance with a graphite shaft, compared to a steel shaft.\n\nThat's why, in the everpresent quest for more yards, more and more golfers prefer graphite shafts.\n\nWhat It All Means\nYou probably want more yards, too. So it's obvious: You should choose graphite shafts, right? Probably, but not necessarily.\n\nAs we said, the majority of golfers these days are going to graphite, at least in their woods, but steel shafts maintain a very strong presence in golf, especially among low-handicappers and scratch players.\n\nIn many cases, those are golfers who don't need the extra boost of swing speed that graphite shafts can provide. Players who prefer steel shafts often make that choice because their heavier weight provides the golfer with a feeling of more control over the clubhead during the swing. And these are players who can analyze and benefit from the added feedback (more vibrations traveling up the shaft) that steel provides.\n\nWe'll quote Tom Wishon: "If gaining more distance is a primary goal for the golfer, they should definitely be fit with the proper graphite shaft design in their woods and irons to match their swing. On the other hand, if distance is not the main focus for the golfer because they already have a high swing speed, if they like the feel of steel and their swing tempo matches a little better to the higher total weight steel shafts bring to the clubs, then steel is the better option."\n\nAnd we'll add that anyone who is not physically strong, or has physical problems in their hands, forearms or shoulders that are exacerbated by the bad vibes of a mis-hit shot, should go with graphite.\n\n\n
510676
I ordered clubs from both sites below including Nike blades and driver and some Titleist. I also bought Nike staff bag from Edwin Watts, although that I found other site offered cheaper price, I asked them to match the price by emailling them and they reduced the price to match. I ordered from them because they ship cheaper. Otherwise, would recommend you to visit lots of golf shop. Once a set is on sale, they could be really cheap. Play blade is better, because not many people use them, and usually they have overstocked and go on sale a lot. You just need to improve your swing to hit blade (which anyone should anyway).
632330
Here is what each club will do for a new golfer\n\nThis can be found on www.playgolfamerica.com the chart is for beginner golfers. You can sign up for a free golf lesson from a PGA pro at that site.\n1 Wood (drive) – 180 Yards\n2 Wood –170 Yards\n5 Wood –160 Yards\n4 Iron –150 Yards\n5 Iron –140 Yards\n6 Iron –130 Yards\n\n7 Iron – 120 yards\n8 Iron – 110 yards\n9 Iron – 100 yards\nPitching Wedge –90 yards
326619
heres my two cents, if your hitting it out on the toe of the club, your more than likely topping the ball the other half of the time, 99 out of 100 your clubs are too short, inshort not allowing you to get back to the ball at impact, not that you cant play with shorter clubs, just makes it alittle harder to do it consistantly, go to your local repair shop, have them measure you for the length of golf clubs you should be playing with, i believe the standard length 5 iron is still 37 1/2", goes 1/2" increments from wedges to 1 iron, ie., 6 iron is 37, 7 iron is 36 1/2, you get the point, what they should do is measure you to get the length of club that is best for you, ask if they have a club you can go hit thats your length, go hit a small bucket, that should do the trick, if that helps your ball flight, you have a couple of options, 1 get the guy to put extensions in your clubs and cut to your length, should be about 5 or 6 bucks plus cost of grip, have him measure you for your proper grip size while your at it, just try doing your favorite clubs you use most often first, if that helps do the rest of your set, 2 reshaft your clubs, get ready to pull out your wallet here, can get pricey, then take the advise of the guy above and go thru the full blown fitting process and consider buying new clubs custom built to your golf game. length, shaft flex, lie, grip size, set make-up, if you go and do all this and your still hitting it out on the toe, take advantage of the free deal of the month thing on lessons, and thank god your not at the dam office, grip it and rip it.
320916
The clubs are fine the most important thing is making sure you have the correct one.  Trying out several and being fit is the key.  You have to find the club that looks good, feels good and does the job with your regular swing.  You can always sign up for a free golf lesson with one of your local PGA pros at www.playgolfamerica.com if your having trouble hitting them.  My first option would be have the checked out and switched out if it's not to late.
54192
Have you hit it, before buying it? The best club in the world may not be the best club for you depending on swing speed, body type etc. \n\nI would highly recommend going to a golf store with a hitting cage or to a range that offers demos and hitting the club before you buy it. \n\nAsk a salesperson and if they are worth their salt they will help fit you with the proper club for your game. Then you can have the option of buying it there, or if that option is too expensive, buying it elsewhere.
571768
None, Save the $250.00 bucks and use $99.00 of it to sign up for Link Up 2 Golf or First Swing. Go to www.playgolfamerica.com and find a program in your area. They will supply the equipment. They will teach you everything you need to know and take you out on the course a couple times. Make sure when you sign up that they do take you out on the course. During this time you will get to hit several types of clubs. \n\nThings to think about\n1. Budget\n2. How often will you play\n3. Clubs you hit that you like\n\nI even suggest going to some demo days have them fit you for clubs. Once you know what you want you can look for great deals on E-bay, Play it again sports, or newspaper.