How to put a turbo on the acura integra 1.6L engine?
340828
A 92 Integra is a good project car. Both the engine and transmission are pretty bullet-proof. However, depending on the nature of the turbo (size, boost pressure, ect...) you might not want it for a daily driver. As far as turbo kits go, there are many companies that make kits and all of the directions are included (in most cases) Either way, I tend to lean the direction of not modifying the car. The car is designed to run a certin way. If you change one thing, there are many other things that need to be tweeked to make the car run right. For instance, a turbo will increase combustion temperatures. You'll need a better radiator than stock. You'll be forcing in more air which makes more power, will a stock crankshaft be good enough? And how will you get the exhaust gases out of the combustion chamber? A stock exhaust cam won't do, you'll need bigger lobes on the exhaust cam. And these are just a few things.\n\nSo anyway, the Integra is a great car, just be aware that if you change something, other things need to change as well to keep everything running smoothly.
52409
additives like octain boost will not improve the power of your engine. The engine is designed to run the octain specified in your owners manual. I would recomend that you try some fuel injector cleaner in your gas. The thing that I think will work best is a fuel induction service made by a company named "BG". BG fuel induction service can be done at a local auto repair shop. I'm a machanic and I've done many fuel induction services and seen very positive results. It cleans out the carbon build up on the valves and in the combustion chambers. I would also recomend a new fuel filter every 30,000 miles. Good luck
421878
remove the drain plug. drain oil into pan. reinstall drain plug. remove oil filter. install new filter. add oil to engine
657695
Download MS Vista Inspiration for Win XP\n\nhttp://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-71490.html
133615
If Its A 3.0 Its 1-4-2-5-3-6,\nThe motor sits sideways so the front of the motor faces the right fender, standing on the rt side of the vehicle facing the motor, #1 cly is the first one on your right,so the right bank goes 1-2-3. left bank still from where your standing goes4-5-6, the rotor on your car turns clock wise .\nNow stand at the front of the car look at the distrbutor\n#1 spark plug at the cap is at the back first one closest to the firewall, draw a imanagery line through the dist cap,\nfrom fender to fender left fender rt finder follow me sofar?\nwhile still standing in the front of the car, the three plug wires close to you from left to right is 5-2-4, the other half twards the firewall from left to right are 3-6-1\nOK, If the motor is a 2.5L same firing order, but No 1 at the cap is the middle one on the cap facing the front of the car sure hope this helps you.
256432
Try:\nhttp://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
195367
There are several upgrades on the aftermarket for your application check with BDS or Bully Dog you can find upgrades for exhaust,computer,turbo,tranny, and more at summitracing.com or try jegs.com
172491
there in the cylinder heads easiest way is to follow the spark plug wires down next to the exhaust manifolds..when the wire turns in, you found a plug....
546304
That is a little difficult to help you with in e-mail!  What is it- Bicknell, Teo, etc.?  If you call the company that made the car they can help you.  Or get someone else with a four bar car to help you get it set up close to good and you can fine tune it for your own driving style from there.  where do you race?
1019750
search at vwr.com \n\nneed license to buy though.
145231
Word around the message boards is that it will be a twin turbo 6.4. Dont get too excited though, the move is reportedly more about lower emissions, and adherance to the EPA low-sulphur diesel that displacement or hp. Remember the probs with the early 6.0s? I'd wait and see what happens before jumping into a brand new one...
260609
Yeah...  What Marky said.\nThen add a performance chip, fuel injectors (if necessary), larger throttle body, and mass air flow sensor (if applicable). Intake manifold....\nThen put a huge Turbonectics Turbocharger on it!\nTo go faster, you need to get more air and fuel in, and more exhaust out.\nHave fun!!
481955
boost controler , hard pipe kit , greddy blow off vale, bigger inter cooler but not to big you will have boost drop with a bigger inter cooler , kn air filter , 3 inch exhuast all the way back , change from a twin turbo to on big turbo like a super 25g is my fav , standalone ems , after all this you will need a new clutch to like a stage3 act is great ,
24524
You should size the turbos based on your horsepower goal:\n\nA turbo helps support about 1 horsepower per 1.345 cfm airflow (that the turbo is rated at). Take the cfm rating of the turbo you are considering and multiply by two (to get the total cfm provided by the two turbos).\n\n\n----\n\nWhat I referred to was the cfm ratings of the turbos themselves. Those are usually specified by the turbo manufacturer in the form of a compressor map. The 1.345 figure I gave is the most commonly quoted estimated. For example, if you wanted a 250hp car, you would need one or more turbos rated a combined 336 cfm.\n\nAnother factor is making sure you have enough exhaust flow to spool the turbos quickly. In other words, don't oversize the turbos or the turbo response will not happen until a high rpm, thus reducing drivability somewhat.
250296
Depends on what specifically you are talking about...\n\nIf you look at top fuel cars in the NHRA, (dragsters and funny cars)... You won't see a turbocharger in the group. Superchargers are used exclusively there. It's not uncommon to see a top fuel car make 6000 to 7000 HP.\n\nHowever, if you are talking about anything else, they both work well, with the turbo having the slight edge over the supercharger.\nAs was already stated, turbos are exhaust driven and superchargers are belt driven.\nS/C's create parasitic drag on the engine because they rob horsepower to make power. It takes a certain amount of power to drive the S/C. Beyond that, S/C's are RPM dependent. Meaning that they don't make a whole lot of power at low RPM's. As you get into the upper RPM band, they make alot of power.\nTurbochargers are NOT ELECTRIC ! They are driven off the spent exhaust gases from your exhaust manifold. This is wasted energy that normally just goes out your tail pipe. A turbocharger harnesses this wasted energy to drive a turbine, which is connected to a compressor. There is no parasitic drag wtih a turbo. It does not rob power from the engine to make power. T/C's make great power down low in the RPM band, so the power is almost instant. They also make more usable Torque than S/C's.\n Most T/C's in production vehicles have "turbo lag", which means there is a slight lag in the engine before the turbo "spools" (or winds up)...\nMost turbo's in race cars have have better technology used in them and they have very little "turbo lag".\nIf you price out turbo kits for cars, you will find that they are more expensive that supercharger kits. Because turbo kits have more parts to them. Turbo kits usually come with an intercooler. Supercharger kits usually do not.\nSo, which one is better?  It all depends on the manufacturer of each kit. Some are cheaper and make less power, some are more costly and make more power.\nYou get what you pay for with these kits.
169783
you can make the turbo work off of a 1984 SVO Mustang.  Hard to get but it'll work.  Try ebay. Also, the guy's post below mine is crazy.  The 2.8 in the SVO can be easily tuned to run in the low 12's.
329198
First, know what your talking about. How can you have "turbo" headers if your running on motor? Turbo headers is known as a turbo manifold, which sends the ehaust to the turbine. \n\nAre you looking to go all motor or boost?