i am trying to remove a coat of clearcoat from a fiberglass boat but leave the paint can i get some tips?
353081
Sand old clear coat with 400 grit sandpaper till shine is gone. Dont sand the clear coat off to the paint.Then recoat with clear. Make sure you test it out to make sure it is compatible with new clear coat do a small unconspicuous area first. thats what i would do anyways, anyone else.
481343
BONDO makes a fibreglass repair resin, you can buy it at Lowe's or Home Depot. Just don't get any of it on your hairy parts... I speak from experience here.
537017
Use lighter fluid on a paper towel, and wipe it off, the spray it with windex and wahlah, clean picture frame!
426471
Just take an old piece of a tshirt. Put alchol on it and rub it over the rollers etc. Anything u can reach. Believe it will be black until u get all that crap off
1075543
Cut out a stencil on a thin peice of cardboard and place it somewhere on your snowboard. Grab dad’s spray paint from the garage and spray away. Good luck!
1061168
Really this question should be in home and garden.  He should use an oil based paint.  water based will likely peal off.
465824
Go to a model makers store. They sell a large variety of paint intended for use on plastic surfaces.
1110676
The best solution I have found for cleaning the helmet is after a ride, hose it off with the outside hose and then hang it out to dry.  That seems to work the best.
729064
It should be fine the way you are doing it.  If you want add a little extra solder and then dip it in flux before wiping it with the sponge.  I wouldn't recommend wiping the end with steel wool or solder, as this could remove the solder you need to have on the tip.
139624
Rinse it off first, and then take it to a drive through wash.  The pressure wash should get it all off.  Good Luck.
361181
try the mr. clean eraser.  it is very hard to get the color off, u may be stuck with it
642692
Use a good quality automotive undercoat first - especially one formulated for aluminium or similar.\n\nOnce the paintwork is restored, apply several coats of a good automotive lacquer (this will really give the paint job depth and lustre too). Finally, apply specially made PVC protective sheet to all areas likely to be scratched (good bike shops and some car accessory dealers will stock this). Once on this gives permanent protection and looks fine.
154993
go to control panel > add/remove program > windows setup > accessories > paint
217258
There's a product called Goo-Gone that is great for removing stickers.  Check out a hardware store.  Try it!
373924
Here's how I've been cleaning my boards for 20+ years:\n\n1. Lie the board, wax up, in the sun. If it's a hot sunny day, around noon-ish, it should only take a few minutes to start melting. You'll know it's ready when the wax starts to glisten (yes, I know, people say you're not supposed to leave a surfboard in the sun, but we're only talking about a few minutes and, when compared to the amount of time it sits in the sun while you're actually out in the water surfing, that logic doesn't really add up).\n\n2. Take a wood or plastic spatula from your kitchen and start scraping the wax off in long, even strokes (you could use a wax comb, but most of them are way too small...it takes forever). Using a paper towel, remove the wax from the spatula and dump it in a trash bag. Repeat until you've got the bulk of the wax removed.\n\nIMPORTANT NOTE: Wax is gnarly stuff. If you get it on your patio or carpet, it will stain pretty much permanently once it melts. I suggest doing this on your lawn or laying down a large towel or drop cloth. Also, if it's not warm and sunny, you can use a blow dryer to soften up the wax. It's kind of a hassle, but it works.\n\n3. Using paint thinner, take a rag and wipe the entire board down (both sides). This will remove all the remaining wax, as well as any dirt or gunk on the board. Some companies sell a liquid they refer to as "wax remover" or "fire water" - it's all just paint thinner with better packaging and a bigger price tag.\n\n4. Rinse the board thoroughly with water. \n\nAd far as paddling out for the first time, you'll have all kinds of people give you all kinds of advice. 99% of it is worthless. \n\nAs long as you have a basic sense of how surfing works - paddling, catching a wave, jumping to your feet, etc. - you're pretty much ready to paddle out. No amount of advice, studying, or practice on the beach will help you ride that first wave. You just gotta keep trying until you get it. \n\nWith that said, a few suggestions to at least get you in a position to do that (and not die or kill anyone else in the process):\n\n1. Paddle out at a spot with the least amount of people you can find. Beginners are a hazard. Everytime you lose control of your board, you run the risk of tagging someone in the head. Very dangerous. \n\n2. BEFORE you paddle out, sit on the beach and watch for at least a half hour. Get a sense of where the waves are breaking, how often, and any other patterns you can pick up on. Do the other surfers in the water appear to be drifting in one direction or the other? If so, there's a current. Be aware of it. \n\n3. Use the lineups. In other words, as you're walking out into the ocean, pick a few landmarks on the beach and remember them. Then use those landmarks to gauge your location once in the water. They'll let you know if you're drifting, in which direction, and how quickly. \n\n4. Make sure your board is plenty big. The biggest mistake that 90% of beginners make is using a board that's too small. Get a big enough board and you might get up on your very first try. Get a board that's too small and it could be a YEAR before you stand up successfully. \n\n5. If possible, surf with a friend. The buddy system is tried and true. Better yet, get a friend who already knows how to surf. Don't force them to sit with you and watch you fall off 50 times in a row. Just having them in the vicinity can be helpful, especially if it gives you a chance to watch them surf. With a little luck, they'll paddle over from time to time and give you a few pointers. \n\n6. 90% of the time a beginner has blown the wave before he even attempts to stand up. This happens by either being too far back on the board (these are the guys you see paddling with the nose of the board sticking up in the air), in which case almost every wave will pass you by. Or by being too far forward on the board (these are
557304
Having owned wooden sailing yachts for 30 years and lived aboard and cruised them in the Caribbean and made a living as a  boatbuilder:\nOakum is good only on larger boats with big gaping seams and something solid behind them, ie the garboard or along the stem/transom, as oakum is a big hairy thing that takes along time to expand and then really expands and can blow the planking off a boat...saw it happen NOT pretty.\n\nWhat has worked for about 500 years is cotton caulking..it comes in along long skein from Distributors and Defender Industries, you pull out  a few feet at a time, twist it  so its now a tightly twisted line of cotton about , oh, the size of a pencil, and drive it into the seem with a caulking iron, which looks like a fat putty knife and is also available from Jamestown. It takes a while to develop the feel for setting the cotton deep enough to putty over without driving it all the way through; if a seam is really open, you might have to wind the cotton a little looser, say tot he diameter of a crayon and push it gently in rather than drive it in... Paint the caulking with a thin coat of paint, then under the water line use Pettits brown seam compound; above the waterline Pettits white seam compound. Both remain flexible for a goodly while and if protected by paint wont crumble out. Epoxy will NOT work; the plank swelling will spit it out.\nThere is a fair amount of controversy about using 3-Ms 5200 under the waterline and Life Caulk above.it's not old timey, its not traditional, but it works.\nRemember if the boat has been out a while and the seams need a lot of caulking...cotton, putty, 5200....as the planks swell they will force out the putty/5200, and you will have to scrape and sand and repaint the topsides until the wood is swollen to where it wants to be...\nSeams that have shrunk so you can see daylight will swell back up..but it may take several days..when you first launch the boat  be prepared for a lot of water coming in...(I needed a crash pump to back up two 1750 bilge pumps after being out for 6 months...)if you can, hose the boat down inside and out a few days before launching...use LOTS of water..it will save a lot of Ohmygod we're sinking trauma at launch...\n\nThere is a magazine devoted to fools like us with wooden boats. Its called (DUH) WoodenBoat, web site is www.woodenboat.com. Filled with all sorts of do it yourself tips and references and books and good stuff..Start reading it today.
915892
use hot water and vinegar, it will clear it up then use it once in a while to keep it clear