how do I build a wooden boat?
336373
1. Get some wood, nails, screws, wood glue.\n2. Draw a scale design of the boat on a piece of paper.\n3. Cut up the........
1141241
I painted a 14 foot duckboat to look like a marsh.  total cost of all the materials was under $25, and it's very realistic looking.  get a paint kit from cabela's (parkers, it has 6 cans of 4 different colors), and get one of those trigger handles that go on spray paint cans.  practice making patterns/stencils or whatever on a big piece of cardboard.  use real leaves or branches as a stencil.  you paint it green, then hold the leaf up there, then hit it with some grey.  instant leaf.  use your imagination for a pattern.
603739
Try http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking
1020648
get a plastic bottle\nput fins on it\nput in vinegar\nget a cork, cut it down and put a small hole in it.\nput in baking soda and jam the cork in  fast.
487133
The first thing is to collect together a range of different wood thicknesses. You need a good supply of kindling (bark, very small twigs, etc. Build a pyramid, and at the centre of the pyramid put paper and bark. Build up round this using twigs and sticks up to a finger in diameter. Put a few slightly thicker sticks round the outside.\nLight the match and put it inside the pyramid so it lights the paper. Gradually add thicker twigs as the wood catches.
1002038
1.  The easiest answer is to attach the iron to wood so that their total density is less than that of water.\n\n2.  A more complicated answer is to expand the iron into a shape that has less density than water, for example, beat it out into a sheet and then use the sheet to make a water-tight sphere or  cube.\n\n3.  An even more complex situation is to beat it out into a sheet and then use the sheet to form an open bowl.  In this situation, it will float based on Archimedes' Principle. It will also sink if filled with water.\n\nWhy is this question in "Religion and Spirituality"?  Are you thinking of the axe that Elisha caused to float? (2 Kings 6:5,6.) In that case the above answers do not apply.
703753
Most boat dealers will do it for under one hundred dollars.  If you'd rather save the money like I would, check out the link below for great directions.  Good luck.
276925
Well, 1st off, I suggest you buy one,(its alot less hassle). If you want to make one you would need "marine" plywood", "fiber-glass resin and Cloth", Paint, Small "skegs" and a "design-shape" to cut your board with. It is not an easy task. Alot of sanding.layering "glass". BUY a board don't try makin one!!!!!.....good luck!
727989
You could try lots of things, like:\nbeads\nfoam balls with pieces of wood to hold the sides together\npaper mache \nclay \n\nReally anything that you can mold or put together would work.
144152
It depends on what you mean.  If you want to make one from scratch, start with boat plans.  You can get plans from the local library, boating magazines, and even shipyards.\n\nThere are many models available that are in kit form.  You can build those and paint in your own color scheme.\n\nLastly, there are ready to float boats that are R/C.  You can have an out-of-the-box boat in the water in less than 10 minutes, once the batteries are charged.\n\nGas powered boats are the most fun, but they travel too fast for the backyard pool.  You will need a calm lake...or a flooded back 40, to have any fun.  I have a Prather Lap Cat...see link.
41604
on the front a boat\nback a head
140699
Visit the site http://www.bateau.com/categories.php?cat=27 they have a selection of boat plans that might fit your needs. It wont be a Perfect factory specified boat but if you want to build it then try out their plans.
660694
Here's one way.  I built something like this when I was 11.\n\nI dont need to say the obvious about not cutting off your fingers, poking your eyes out, or gluing your hands to the table do I?\n\nie I'm assuming you're capable of doing the below safely.\n\nyou need:\n\n2 big wheels\n1 smaller wheel (you can always make wheels from cardboard and balsa)\nThe biggest propeller thats fits.\nelectric motor\nlantern battery (big square thing with springs on the top)\nSome 1/8" thick balsa sheet.\nsome dowel which fits in the wheel.\nwire\nA wide necked plastic drinks bottle - Sunny D maybe?\nsticky tape \nhot melt glue \nlong drawing pins/nails\n2 x 10-20 ml syringes and a length of narrow bore plastic tube.  (doctors surgery might give you two syringes if you ask nicely an the tube is used on fish tanks)\n\n\nThe plastic drinks bottle is going to be the chassis for your car.\n\nyou need to cut the following holes in it\n\n- small hole in the lid \n\n- Big hole in the side just smaller than the tennis ball\n\n- Small hole for the wires from the motor\n\n- small rectangle opposite the big hole, near the bottom of  the bottle, same width and length as the small wheel.\n\n- 2 small holes the same diameter as the dowel further up\n\n\nHot melt the motor to the inside of the lid with the shaft sticking through the hole.\n\nSecure the propellor to the front of it. \n\ncut two long lengths of wire.  Strip the ends and twist one wire around each of the terminals on the motor.\n\nFit the cap, motor & propellor wires.  push the motor wires though the bottle.\n\nPut a short length of dowel through the small wheel and then hot melt it inside the plastic bottle so the wheel sticks down through the hole you made.\n\nStick a long piece of Dowel through the two small holes at the front.  And pin the wheels on the axles.  All the Wheels rotate freely.\n\nHot melt  another piece of dowel to the bottom of the bottle so that it sticks up vertically.\n\nMake a rudder out of the 1/8" balsa. say 6" high and 3" deep.  Near the bottom stick a 1/2" long piece of dowel so that pokes out at 90°.\n\nTape the balsa to the vertical dowel along one side only so that it will hinge.\n\nHot melt a syringe to the top of the bottle so that the plunger is facing the rudder.  Attach a piece of dowel to the syringe plunger and then to the short bit of dowel sticking out of the rudder.  the rudder end needs to be able to move  ie pinned together.\n\nConnect the syringe to the plastic tube.\n\nWrap the wire from the motor and the tube together with tape to make an umbilical cord. \n\nconnect the other end of the tube to the syringe\n\nConnecting the battery up will give you forwards and reverse and pushing the syringe in and out will give you steering.\n\nThe tennis ball will just sit in the hole on top.
815864
My dad made a 16' cedar strip canoe.  \n\nIt is beautiful, light, and quiet on the water.  I know there are books available at Barnes and Noble or Borders, but I know he just created the form and learned how to fiberglass finish the outside.  \n\nGood luck!
1131378
ply-wood get 5 -9 small skinpy peics and epoxy them together and mold em and shape em
557304
Having owned wooden sailing yachts for 30 years and lived aboard and cruised them in the Caribbean and made a living as a  boatbuilder:\nOakum is good only on larger boats with big gaping seams and something solid behind them, ie the garboard or along the stem/transom, as oakum is a big hairy thing that takes along time to expand and then really expands and can blow the planking off a boat...saw it happen NOT pretty.\n\nWhat has worked for about 500 years is cotton caulking..it comes in along long skein from Distributors and Defender Industries, you pull out  a few feet at a time, twist it  so its now a tightly twisted line of cotton about , oh, the size of a pencil, and drive it into the seem with a caulking iron, which looks like a fat putty knife and is also available from Jamestown. It takes a while to develop the feel for setting the cotton deep enough to putty over without driving it all the way through; if a seam is really open, you might have to wind the cotton a little looser, say tot he diameter of a crayon and push it gently in rather than drive it in... Paint the caulking with a thin coat of paint, then under the water line use Pettits brown seam compound; above the waterline Pettits white seam compound. Both remain flexible for a goodly while and if protected by paint wont crumble out. Epoxy will NOT work; the plank swelling will spit it out.\nThere is a fair amount of controversy about using 3-Ms 5200 under the waterline and Life Caulk above.it's not old timey, its not traditional, but it works.\nRemember if the boat has been out a while and the seams need a lot of caulking...cotton, putty, 5200....as the planks swell they will force out the putty/5200, and you will have to scrape and sand and repaint the topsides until the wood is swollen to where it wants to be...\nSeams that have shrunk so you can see daylight will swell back up..but it may take several days..when you first launch the boat  be prepared for a lot of water coming in...(I needed a crash pump to back up two 1750 bilge pumps after being out for 6 months...)if you can, hose the boat down inside and out a few days before launching...use LOTS of water..it will save a lot of Ohmygod we're sinking trauma at launch...\n\nThere is a magazine devoted to fools like us with wooden boats. Its called (DUH) WoodenBoat, web site is www.woodenboat.com. Filled with all sorts of do it yourself tips and references and books and good stuff..Start reading it today.
524222
The boats are called airboats (there is a pretty good photo gallery of them at http://www.airboats.com/webfolder/ ).  You can get plans for them at the following site:\nhttp://www.airboatsnfish.com/manufacturers.html\n\nHope this helps!