the Big Bertha Heavenwood Hybrid club, should I get steel or graphite and at  what degree?
337257
if your lookin 4 accuracy go wit steel, for distance graphite. Degree depends on the club ur replacing. if its like a five wood choose around a 18 degree loft, or say a 3 iron go wit about a 22 degree.
379962
As I got better at golf, basically I switched from a game improvement type iron to a forged cavity back which is less forgiving. When your handicap falls under 10 you should probably demo some blades musceback type irons and see if they work for you. If you are consisitent and rarely have truely bad swing days, aka shanks you are probably ready. If you have a mediocre swing the blades will maximize those faults and your scores will likely suffer.
424025
burton or kemper. thats all i ever use, and have been using for years. they both have some pretty mellow graphics, not super flashy. i she a beginner or advanced? fiberglass cores are nice. woodcores get waterlogged. metal edged to great turns!
620932
Both diamond and graphite are network solids, in which all the atoms are covalently bonded together.\n\nThey have different types of bonding though.  This gives them different properties.\n\nGraphite consists of planes of hexagons of carbon atoms.  The bond angles in the plane are 120 degrees, and every atom is in the sp2 hybridization.  The planes are only connected together through some weaker pi-bonding between the layers, so it is relatively easy for the layers to slide past each other, making graphite soft.\n\nDiamond consists of tetrahedral bonding of carbon.  All four nearest neighbors are exactly the same distance apart.  It is in the sp3 hybridization, so the bond angles are 108.5 degrees.  All the bonds are equally strong, too.  Diamond is the hardest natural substance.  The only way to cut a diamond is to use another diamond or get it to cleave along a crystal plane (in a similar manner to cleaving graphite along the plane).\n\nThe reason for forming two different compounds is thermodynamics.  Both types of bonding are possible in carbon (sp2 and sp3 hybridization) but graphite is more stable at ambient temperature and pressure.  Diamond is more stable at high temperature and pressure.
542105
You should have a cutting tip (this has one larger hole surrounded by smaller holes). Cutting tips also come in different sizes like the normal tips, so first you have to figure out if you have a cutting tip and which size it is. The size should be written on your tip. And the size of your tip will determine which metal thickness you can cut. I put a link to some website which lists the psi, though I don't know how general this is (I wouldn't go up to 15 with the acetylene, stay safely below that, but then I wouldn't try to cut a 6 inch thick steel plate with a gas torch anyway). You can look around if you find other tables, preferable ones which are for your cutting tip.
526830
Depends on what you are fabricating. \nAre you talking about making the material itself or fabricating structural components from stainless materials?\n\nAnd what type of material? What grade of stainless? What configuration? Angle iron or I-beam? Welded or bolted?\n\nSounds like you need to talk with an experienced estimator and/or structural engineer.
1065268
I would suggest the Taylormade R7 460cc.  You may want to demo a couple of different shafts to see which one has the best flex for you.  It is an excellent club, and this comes from die hard Big Bertha man.  Once I tried the R7 there was no going back.  Demo one and then go buy it on Ebay and save the money.
1114955
some of the woods are good i know people who think there the best..boom boom used to use them.  to be honest i would prefer to play something like snake eyes as opposed to getting raped by a big company for lots of money. The shaft is a huge factor as well as the head. I was once told(how true it is i don't know but it sounds about right) that with the big companys 70% of cost goes into research but if youy sell it 70%is what shaft you have in it\nCheck out TOM WISHON"S clubs. he used to design for golfsmith who designs snakeeyes. I think it is wishongolf.com. some of his stuff is good\n\nHope i helped
824011
As a previous answer stated, different woods (and even different pieces of the same type of wood) have different densities and thus different weights and may affect speed accordingly.  But if your underlying question is about the impact of materials on speed, your selection of wood is minimal compared to other factors.  Since there is a maximum weight allowed for cars your choice of wood would not materially affect your car's speed as much as just buying the regular pinewood kit and using lead stick-on weights to reach the maximum weight (which would also give you the flexibility to place the weight where you wanted it - front, back, center, etc.).  \n\nOne factor that has a far greater impact on overall performance is making sure the axles are square to the body of your car, because, to paraphrase Jonnie Cochran, if your wheels ain't square, you ain't going nowhere.  If your axles are perfectly square to the car body your wheels will turn smoothly and not slow your car down by jumping up and down or wiggling back and forth across your lane.\n\nAnother important facter is the "freeness of spin" of your wheels.  You can sand the axles and use graphite power for reduced friction.  \n\nI'm not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but in the grand scheme of things, wood type does not have a great impact on car speed.
710450
carbon more accurate cost more but as long as you don't break them which is hard to do they will last for ever wont bend unlike aluminum if you bend it..........It will never fly straight again
1051673
Riffle iron shaft has different flex as well although people often say they are stiffer than dynamic gold. I would think normal or regular for Riffle is 5.0, 5.5 would be strong, and 6.0 would be stiff.\n\nSay you generally have a driver swing speed of a 100-110 miles per hour, you could go for 6.0. 90 miles for 5.5, 85 miles for 5.0 and so on.
182647
The ref. lists many different steels and their physical properties. Go there and search "high carbon steel" and "high chromium steel".\nI checked the first item listed for these two searches and got:\n(for high carbon steel:)\nAISI 1055 Steel, cold drawn, annealed, 19-32 mm (0.75-1.25 in) round\nComponent    Wt. %  \nC 0.5 - 0.6   \nFe 98.41 - 98.9   \nMn 0.6 - 0.9   \nP Max 0.04   \nS Max 0.05   \nDensity 7.85 g/cc 0.284 lb/in³ \n\n(for high chromium steel:)\nCrucible AIRKOOL® (AISI A2) Tool Steel\nComponent    Wt. %  \nC 1   \nCr 5.25   \nFe 91.55   \nMn 0.85   \nMo 1.1   \nV 0.25   \nDensity 7.86 g/cc 0.284 lb/in³
133
I'd agree with TaraN's answer. Take the time to really find what you want. Take a lot of extended test rides. You might find that aluminum might be too harsh for you, in which case you might find that steel or carbon might be more comfortable. That's just one example. Lots of test rides will give you a feel for how the various bikes at a given price point can handle very differently. Without getting into too much tech-speak, you might find that one bike handles a bit more twitchy than another. Think of the difference as driving a Mini Cooper versus a basic sedan. Some bikes are set up more for racing, where you'll get a quicker handling bike, whereas others will handle a bit more laid back.\n\nParts wise, you'll find the same component offerings on many of the manufacturers out there for a given price point, as TaraN pointed out. You'll most likely be getting a bike with Shimano componenets, with perhaps a mix of some of the manufacturer's own branded components (for example, Trek outfits their bikes with a lot of Bontrager componentry).\n\nFocus on the overall ride of the bike. For a $1000, you can get a lot of bike.\n\nWade at The Spokesman in downtown Santa Cruz is a GREAT guy - very helpful, and yes, very patient. He's very knowledgeable and will set you up right.\n\nAlso in that same category, I'd highly recommend seeing Vance Sprock over at Cupertino Bike Shop. He's just like Wade - he'll set you up right.\n\nGood luck!
392662
Dynamic Gold Regular shafts are probably on more clubs than all other steel shafts put together.  If you swing harder than average (as determined by clubhead speed, not by effort), you may benefit from the stiff shafts, which flex less and more quickly than R shafts.  Or, if you use shafts that are more than 1" longer than standard, you may need a stiffer shaft.  Longer shafts flex more than shorter ones.  Go to a good golf store and have your head speed measured with a shaft comparable to the one you contemplate using.  That is the most reliable indicator of which flex you need.\n\nGraphite shafts are generally lighter than steel, but do not necessarily flex more.  They come in a range of stiffnesses, just like steel shafts.  The reduced weight often permits more clubhead speed or longer shafts with no weight increase, and so require a stiffer shaft than a comparable steel shaft.
1125505
A sand wedge will commonly have 56 degrees of loft, sometimes 58, but 56 is pretty standard.\n\nA PW loft will likely range from 48 to 52 degrees, depending on how "modern" the lofts are.  If you have an older PW, it might well be 52 degrees; otherwise, i'd bet on 48 or so.\n\nWhy the difference?  Recently, manufacturers, in their quest to have the "longest clubs," strengthened the lofts.  Whereas a PW used to be 52 (or maybe 50, depending), now they tend to be around 48.  And the same goes for all the other clubs in a set--they're stronger lofts.\n\nThe net effect is to leave you a very large gap between your PW and your SW.  As from above, perhaps 8 degrees, which means there are distances in between that require you to hit a partial PW, something many find difficult to do consistently.\n\nTo make up for this, manufacturers have filled the gap between the PW and SW by producing what are called "Gap" wedges--they'll have an A or G on them (A meaning Approach wedge, G meaning Gap wedge).  Guess what loft these are?  Answer:  The same as the old PW!\n\nThose crazy manufacturers!  Leave it to them to create a problem, then sell you something to solve it.\n\nMike (The Club Doctor).
37382
I made my decision by going to Golfsmith and hit an assortment of clubs. I found the Callaway Fusion irons to be most consistent for me and the easiest to hit.  The other cool thing is Golfsmith has a 100 day satisfaction policy which lets you have piece of mind regarding the club choice.
1136080
The typical clubs an amateur would carry are marked W and SW where the other irons are marked with their numbers. W is for wedge and SW is for Sand Wedge. A wedge would typically have a 50-55º loft although there are ones which are as low as 45º, a Sand Wedge more, up to 60º.\n\nI profess ignorance on the detail, but I am not aware of a formal numbering system, although I have seen wedges marked with the angle of loft recently. Thats more of a marketing thing I think : woods are often marked with their angle of loft as well and they remain Driver (1 wood), 2 wood, 3 wood etc.