rosa gear #3 comes out of mesh at high speed and gear#2 comes out of mesh when idling.help?
345898
You need a new transmission, or a new clutch.
256712
Try what is said above, could be something simple. Also, you may need to open it up and look around. I not ever looked at one like yours, but, it has to have a way of feeding the Paper, gears, stepper motor. Look for worn, loose parts or a slipping gear in that area.
1091602
Epicyclic gearing tends to fall over as you scale it up due to centrifical (centrifugal) forces of the rotating parts trying to accelerate outwards.  I'd be inclined to use a discreet gearbox off a motorcycle, something like the royal enfield bullet and chain drive.
1079800
in one case you have half an ohm, in the other you have over 500 ohms.  It seems you may be reading one of the meters incorrectly.  One of the meters could be set to auto, while the other is not.
358725
Happened to a couple of my cars. Take yours to a transmission shop. There's no quick fix.
101052
changing the final drive ratio won't hurt the car, if that is what you are asking. What you didn't specify ws, what engine/trans. you have, and the gear ratio now.\nGoing to a 3:73 from say a 2:91, or even a 3:08, 3:42 whatever will do 2 things. This will make your engine rpm rise quicker, and will result in a higher rpm at cruise speed while on the freeway. Will also decrease gas milage.\nIf you are looking for the quick take off at a light, gears will do it, but won't make your car any faster. Only top out sooner.\n\nEDIT: it does not take less work for a motor to turn the diff. with lower gears (yes lower. Higher numbers are lower) In fact, the motor is doing the same work, only faster. A set of higher numbered gears cause the engine to rev up quicker, that is it. Still uses the same power. The reason people go with a new gear is to increase performance off the line, by making the engine reach it's power band quicker. An engine does not develop peak power at ide or low rpm's.
1033136
just turn the handle, dont over do it too much though. go in fast, let up on the speed and turn hard then gas it again
376771
check your timing first at idle speed, vacuum advance unhooked from the distributor and plugged off. \n8-14 degrees, usually i set it at 11-12.\nrev up motor to 3000 - 3500, check it again. now should be at 32-38 degrees, this is called total advance. now-\nwatch the smoothness of the way it moves on its way up to 3500, it should advance quick at first, then slower the more rpm, but smoothly and not erratic or jerky or all over the place. best way to get total - use a timing light that has a dial or a way to measure degrees so you dial the mark back to 0 on the light and read the #. that is the # of degrees. if you dont have one, go to the local speed shop and get a strip of timing tape. that will let you watch the #s better if all you have is an old scholl light.\nhope this helps.
235662
You can try to degas your mobile phase and make sure that all fittings are tight (leaks can prevent pressure from accumulating).  You can also try wet priming 2-3 times - sometimes once is not enough.
631564
hey chary chic email me at chevy_ridin_hot_boi@Yahoo.com i may be able to help you with this problem
1176681
it's a feed wheel / paper issue. Try paper thats glossy, paper that's not glossy, paper thats light weight (20-24 pound) or paper thats heavier (28-32 pound). if none of these work clean the feed wheels with alcohol and allow to dry for 10 seconds. fan the paper very well, and even slope the stack to favor the side it pulls from (top or bottom). if all this fails, return that bad boy TODAY !
184121
more info please. have you made sure you are getting gas to the carb? all the fire in the world cant run an engine with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter. are you getting spark? pull a plug wire and sick a screw driver in it. place the screw driver near the manifold(less than half an inch from it) and turn the engine over. if no spark jumps from screw driver to exhaust manifold you still have a spark issue. if you are getting fire then it should be a fuel issue. if you have both fuel and fire and it turns over but doesnt catch then it gets interesting. also if it turns over but jerks hard you may have the timing out so far it can't catch. eliminate possibilities one at a time and eventually you will eliminate the problem.
111657
It is a number of things it could be.  Tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, gear box.  Best to have a auto tech check it out.
286341
I had that problem, have you checked to make sure all the tubing isn't clogged.Check the tubes inside the machine along with the tubing that is visual, I had to open a wire clothes hanger and push it gently through the tubing. Dog hair was my problem.
1146846
bearings/hubs going bad...   or a freewheel problem.  Get thee to your local bike shop and have it inspected!\n\nYou might also have a few loose spokes which should also be checked out (wheel needs to be trued).
1183056
it is ok to roll in neutral. but you dont want to leave the clutch dissengaged for long periods of time because it causes extra wear on the clutch. idling on a gear would mean you are in gear and have the clutch pulled in. idling on neutral is just being in neutral.
712986
Are you sure there resistance is off when you try to pedal?  if you are, call the manufacturer before you do anything.  You dont want to oil it and void your warranty and then it's ruined.