When it gets under a load or pull as in picking up speed or going uphill it feels like it is missing. I have put in new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor bug, fuel pump and EGR valve. I'm about at my wit's end! Could it be the catylytic convertor is plugged? HELP! Oh, It has the throttle body carb and is a 4 wheel drive with the big 6 cyclinder engine. It does run rough all the time, but when you get a load put on it it tends to heat up a little bit. I cannot afford to leave it at a shop and have them fix it THEN tell me what it cost.
200200
Possible that it is the cat. Save dollars and punch it out b4 replacing it.\nTiming may be out. Check this first. And not just at one mechanic.\nDid you replace the fuel filter(s)? Air filter?\nJust for an experiment, get some carb cleaner and while the engine s running, spray it around the intake manifold, base of the carb, any hoses you may see. If the engine starts to die or rev up, then you have a vacuum leak.\n\nGood luck.
107424
Yeah...  What Marky said.\nThen add a performance chip, fuel injectors (if necessary), larger throttle body, and mass air flow sensor (if applicable). Intake manifold....\nThen put a huge Turbonectics Turbocharger on it!\nTo go faster, you need to get more air and fuel in, and more exhaust out.\nHave fun!!
188136
Why wouldn't you make an Tempo into a race car?...It's the perfect sleeper, and like it or not, I've seen quite a few made to race...\n\nDid you change the Onboard Diagnostic System?...Because it should be OBD-I...
44138
It is a number of things it could be.  Tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, gear box.  Best to have a auto tech check it out.
541446
It sounds like you have a model  21 S & W,  check on the side of the frame, or open the cyclinder, or on the butt of the handle. Nice hardware if it is !!!
461354
take off your cranks and tighten everything and oil it all. this will make it run smoother and your parts wont come lose, maybe get a new B.B. if that one is old. Tighten that lock nut realll good and you will be in good shape.
544279
It sounds like you have looked at the most likely sources. \nI think I would definitely try to raise the brushes as the motor is winding down just to eliminate that possibility (wear insulated gloves).  A pencil eraser held lightly on the commutator will also temporarily quiet the brushes. \nDepending on the frequency other possibilities are a loose field pole piece. This could be loose to the frame or the coil could be loose to the pole piece. The same also goes for the armature coils. At 7.5 hp. coils are prone to move around and get noisy. This is more common after overheating. If the bearings are sealed , check that the seal has some lube on it. \nIf it is equipped with a fan check it for clearance and also check where its collar mounts to the armature shaft for looseness and movement. Red dust here is a telltale sign. Depending on how the armature is fixed to the shaft a loose fit here could also cause the chirping. \nA well placed drop of oil on the most unlikely spot may expose the source. More headbanging, some luck and persistence may be required.\n\nI've been there a few times myself. \nGood Luck
73392
more info please. have you made sure you are getting gas to the carb? all the fire in the world cant run an engine with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter. are you getting spark? pull a plug wire and sick a screw driver in it. place the screw driver near the manifold(less than half an inch from it) and turn the engine over. if no spark jumps from screw driver to exhaust manifold you still have a spark issue. if you are getting fire then it should be a fuel issue. if you have both fuel and fire and it turns over but doesnt catch then it gets interesting. also if it turns over but jerks hard you may have the timing out so far it can't catch. eliminate possibilities one at a time and eventually you will eliminate the problem.
128933
man, you NEED the cap. youll loose preasure as the revs throw oil all over the engine comartment. fuel, carry gas or fill all the way up before you go. that hyperspace module, is that aftermarket bolt on or did you have to machine the heads & manifold?  thanx, that was fun.
625287
You have to first check the wiring all the way from the ignition. Then make sure you have the fuel on. Then check the cap. If its none of that next would be the Actual ignition and see if thats operating properly.
622971
I would ask the engine manufacturer. If they are not available for some reason, I would look at current manufacturers of similar engines and see if you could adapt something. If this is an engine that has been used in cars or trucks, look for one in a junkyard. \n\nIt would help if you said something about what kind of engine, pump, and service this is in. Is is industrial? Agricultural? Some kind of experiment?
670571
it's a feed wheel / paper issue. Try paper thats glossy, paper that's not glossy, paper thats light weight (20-24 pound) or paper thats heavier (28-32 pound). if none of these work clean the feed wheels with alcohol and allow to dry for 10 seconds. fan the paper very well, and even slope the stack to favor the side it pulls from (top or bottom). if all this fails, return that bad boy TODAY !
64343
Losing the a/c pump will not gain horsepower if you don,t (it free Wheels when off)turn it on, a/c will draw up to a small % loss even when on\nyou will not notice it, only when you first turn it on the other thing i am thinking about here is you cant guess this stuff over a coumputer, need to see what realy broke !, a smog pump will draw less then 1/4 horse power, a dino will not even pick the up, besides the air pump is there for a reason, it cool combustion temp and ehx temps its a freind to your motor, dont belive otherwise. send photo of damage i will tell you what to do next, p/s that car is plenty fast from the factory, speed kills so keep it stock
74183
You should really be running a fuel pressure gauge. There are a lot of things that can cause your leaning out... You may just need to run some high octane race fuel or may still need a higher capacity fuel pump or you need to back off on your timing...Then there is the other variable, your compression, n2, blower, or other power adder...
197111
Most of them are tuned the same way as the ones today.  The plugs get fouled in them quite often.  You probably just need to change the plug.  Also, make sure you are servicing it every year to keep it going.  Also, you might can get some helpful information from a local golf course that uses gas carts.  I am sure whoever maintains their carts can give you some helpful hints.
70720
chip, GT40 air intake, cat-back exhaust, free-flow cats, h-pipe. The easiest thing to do is change the oil to synthetic. Less friction=more power
208621
Go to your local auto-parts store and look in a repair manual (Chilton's or Haynes) for the year of the vehicle.\n Like the other has said it is probly the EGR valve. Or  a vaccuum valve for a cruise control. Anyway it should not be shaking. And holding it still causes the engine to run smoother? If this thing does not have any wires runninig off of it. Then it has a vaccuum leak. Reattach it to be solidly mounted or replace it.\n If this is a vaccuum valve then there should be a diagram of the vaccuum hose layout on a sticker under the hood. And this component should be named in that diagram.