im planning to buy a Deore LX r.d.,to upgrade my acera r.d., would a long cage rd be good enough for trail riding?
205225
The cage length affects capacity. Capacity is defined as the difference between the number of teeth on the largest and smallest cogs, added to the difference between the number of teeth on the big chainring and the small chainring. Long cage rear derailleurs have a high capacity, and can therefore handle a very wide range drivetrain. Short cage rear derailleurs are more limited in their capacity, working best on a drivetrain with closer gearing.\n\nShorter cage rear derailleurs take up less chain slack than a long cage rear derailleur. The chain is held more snugly, which can result in smoother, more precise shifting. However, longer cage rear derailleurs are capable of taking up more chain slack than a short cage rear derailleur, allowing you to run a wider range drivetrain than would be possible with a short cage rear derailleur.\n\nFor road bikes, your choice is fairly straightforward. If you plan to use a double crankset, stick to a short cage unit. For triple cranksets, you'll want to use a longer cage rear derailleur to handle the increased chain wrap necessitated by the wider range drivetrain.\n\nOn a mountain bike, your choice is slightly more difficult. Less experienced riders, or riders who ride frequently in steep terrain should probably stick to a long cage rear derailleur. This, combined with proper chain length, will allow the bike to be safely shifted into every gear on the bike. Racers might appreciate the lighter weight and slight shifting improvement a short cage rear derailleur offers. However, these benefits come with a tradeoff - because of the decreased capacity a short or medium cage rear derailleur offers, it may not be possible to safely use the small chainring in tandem with the smallest cogs. (The derailleur simply can't take up enough slack in the chain)\n\nFor mountain bikes, when in doubt, choose a long cage rear derailleur, unless you are certain you understand the limitations of a short/medium cage derailleur.
381125
forget the choices you have I'd suggest a Giant STP..you can get a 07 frame for $300 or talk to your local Giant dealer about a 2006 stp complete bike, I know right now giant is blowing them out to make room for the new stuff. the STP (Street,Trails,Park) is a sweet bike, the geo. is perfect for street or DJ and it rides well on the trails\nI have owned a P bike and a Cowan before and will never go back now that I ride a STP
573870
I have two cannondales, I'm 6'3 34" inseam and ride XL. Fits just right. Based on this limited info...I'd have to say you're going to need a Large.\n\nEnjoy!
78331
Road bike would be fun. I would get the hybrid though. Hard to ride a bike in the rain or snow.
158833
Take a look at commuter/fitness bikes. These are generally relatively inexpensive bikes which are a hybrid between mountain and road bikes. They're designed to be comfortable. I use an older Specialized Sport, and I ride to work most all summer. You may be able to get one used if you don't want to spend a lot of money.\n\nAlso, get a good set of lights (front and back) and reflector. Even if you don't intend to be riding after dark, you really don't want to be stuck without it. You want cars to be able to see you. You may also want to look at getting a rack and some pannier bags to tie your stuff to your bike instead of wearing a backpack. I have a nice padded bike bag for my laptop.
554815
yes haro is a good bike period
664986
They are both great bikes. I've owned three Treks and one Specialized. Loved em all. I would see which frame geometry best suits you comfort-wise, and go with that. My preference is Trek usually, but you can't go wrong either way.
401723
I think Glamour is within that range, and with Hero Honda you need not worry about reliability. Then there is of course Pulsar. I myself have a Star City( only Rs.39000 ), so I dunno much about costly bikes.
336916
Go for another hardtail unless you're seriously into downhill or bouncing over the really rough stuff (like tree trunks).\n\nIf like most of us, you ride road and trails most of the time then a hardtail is just fine. Its lighter, tighter, there'll be no maintenance and set up problems, its more comfortable overall (no funny bounces and shimmies) and best of all, it delivers more of your precious energy direct to the wheels - so you go further for longer and you can climb easier.\n\nI've used both and gone back to hardtail (albeit a good frame with excellent front forks).\n\nThe steering suspenders are the most important - get the best front forks you can afford.\n\nForget all that mechanical baggage at the back - you don't need it!
618866
Obviously the bigger names like Yakima or Thule make racks for 5 or more bikes, but it is hard to say which is better...  depends on whether you are using a trailer hitch or a rear door mount.  Get thee to your local bike shop and check them both out.  Ride safe!
209856
For $200, this pretty much limits you to a used bike.  Find a club, a shop, or other place that might have some classified ads.\n\nYou probably want a hardtail.  Decent rear suspension is expensive and is only needed for fairly extreme downhills.\n\nLook for a bike with v-brakes and aluminum rims.  The most important feature is a frame that fits.\n\nYou can start off wearing sneakers and gym shorts but you'll probably want to get some bike shorts.  Always wear a helmet.  Trees and rocks are hard.
339105
wow man that sounds a little crazy, like rocket science. i have standard 6in rotors and they rock and have never even in extreme conditions given out on me or had brake loss due to heat. i know your setup, id consider just doing one rear hyd. brake for weight/racing purposes, maybe even not use front brakes at all or just use v brakes for front.
267565
i'd echo prairiebiscuit's answer - Giant really do pack a stackload of features into their bikes.\n\nSome mountain bikes that regulalrly do well in the entry-level grouptests are:\n\nGiant Terrago / Rincon, Specialized Hardrock, Mongoose Amasa, GT Avalanche, Claud Butler Cape Wrath\n\nAs most of the guys here are saying, do make sure you go to a proper bike shop and speak to someone who knows what they're talking about. It'd be better if you could go during the week (and not on a busy Saturday) as you will get better service.\n\nMake sure you get a test ride, and if you think you may get bitten by the mountain biking bug, then aim for something with a reasonable frame that you could justafiably upgrade the components on.\n\nOne point I would make, is that for the amount you are looking to spend, I'd probably avoid going for disk brakes. Some manufacturers will put cable-operated disk brakes (cheaper and far less effective than hydraulic disks) on as a selling feature, though to be honest a reasonable set of v-brakes are as good in all but the grimiest conditions. The added cost of the disks will probably mean that other features (like the fork or crankset) are of a lower-spec than on a similarly priced bike with v-brakes. The thing to make sure of is that the frame, fork and wheel hubs have all got the necessary mounts to allow you to easily upgrade to (hydraulic) disk brakes in the future, if you think you may want to.\n\nThe possible exception to this rule is the Giant Terrago (not sure how much that sells for in the U.S.), which comes equipped with Giant's own-brand MPH hydraulic disks.
45611
I wanted a full suspension bike and the lowested priced make and model I chould find at the time was a Jamis Dakar. It's still around and I think it's still an 8-speed machine. I'm more of a road rider and use mountain biking as a distraction to stir up my exercise routine. It's not a fancy machine and it's very heavy it suits me just fine. I don't know if this model is still the low end of the line but it's worth checking out. Be sure to check Giant as well.
396200
freeride bikes, try Kona or Giant ! they have really good choice and they are cheap ! Cheers
610499
HARO is the way to go bud, Ive been riding a 1985 Haro Master since 1985 and also have a Haro sport,Haro fst,Haro invernt and a Haro group 1... The mirra is worth the cash because of the good components on it and if you keep it in top shape will be worth good cash should you decide to sell it.\n\nThe Haro f2 is a decent bicycle for the money also..you can also put the bike in layaway and pay small amounts until paid off. This is what we used to do as kids to get a higher end bike.\n\nhttp://harobikes.com
13066
That is a really good question. From my experience in New England with the many big hills that we have, a tripple is never out of the question. Just the same, when you go with a double, you have fewer gears (and perhaps,fewer problems) to think about. Maybe, you could try out some bikes with each kind to find out which might be better. They do not need to be anything close to the Madone's quality. In other words, any basic road bike might provide that answer for you. Good luck and have an awesome riding season.