Looking for advice about glossey paint and such. any info would be helpful
203968
Okay so good question, Col thinks he is right but SJB is.  The question was how too paint a surboard, not a foam blank. Col told us how to paint a blank before its been fiberglassed and SJB told us to do it when the fiberglass was already on, meaning it was then a surfboard.\n\nAnyway it is done a lot with already made surfboards. They lightly sandpaper the existing fibreglass where the spray work is going to be done, they lightly sandpaper it so the paint will hold better. Then they put a new coating of resin (fibreglass) onto the board, wolla , all done and lookin good.  \n\nPaint jobs look wicked on boards,  who'd wanna be riding a stock standard board when you can stand out.
124209
That would be so cool.\n\nAny specialty paint or wallpaper store should be able to help you.  Avoid chains like Sherwin-Williams, Lowe's, or Home Depot (although if you could get the paint department people at Home Depot to talk off the record, they'd be a big help).\n\nContact an interior design firm.  They might be able to hook you up with some of their distributors.\n\nBeyond that, I reckon I wish ya luck.
371640
do not use that!   use paintball marker oil at a paintball gun store...dicks sporting goods should have it
173202
If you don't care too much about the finish and are just building up a townie, then use a rattle can. And yes, use primer. It'll prevent the original paint from showing through the new finish, and it will help the new paint adhere to the frame better.\n\nOtherwise, I'd take it to a powder coating shop, or call around to see if you can get an autobody shop to do it on the cheap.\n\nThere are professional bike painting services (like Cyclart in So Cal), but they're pretty pricey.
509936
I always make my family ornaments.  You can buy non-painted ones and paint them yourselves or even do a type of paper mache' on a plain round ornament.  Your family will be sure to love them!  Hope this helped!!
169795
I can't answer your question with absolute certainty, I apologise, but may have something to point you in the right direction...\nThere used to be a show on HGTV called Modern Masters- there was a metal artist on there once, the cut 1/2 inch wide copper strips, wove them into a 'fabric', carefully folded it and placed it into a kiln (1500? 1600? degrees f), he let it soak in the heat for a while (can't remember how long), then took it out and placed it into a water bath.  I think part of the colouring process might have come from the rapid cooling?  The piece had the colours you were looking for, as I recall.  \nI like the sound of what you're doing...hope it all works out for you...
130988
I've seen them in my local Lewiscraft.  You have to paint them yourself, though, so don't forget the gold spraypaint! :)
59989
I can't help with the parts, but I make custom cut decals. If you contact me via the email link in my profile with more details of the decals you are after, I'll let you know if I can help. Don't forget to leave a return email address!
58037
There is nothing wrong with the paint on the Porshe. The problem is that car washes do damage to paint jobs whether it is a Bentley or a Kia. The ones with the brushes will leave microscopic scriches in the paint that will allow water and other elements to further damage the paint job. Touchless ones don't always remove all the cleansing agents and again can corrode the paint job. With run of the mill cars (ones 95% of us drive) owners don't really care. A Toyota with imperfections in the paint is still just a Toyota and most feel the effort taken to hand wash the car is more valuable than the paint job. Your boyfriend bought a Porshe because... well I don't know but after spending that kind of money he wants it to look as good as possible for as long as possible.
414249
The only online vendor that I have heard anything good about, including price, is Pottery Barn. There have been many positive reviews on TheKnot.com and other wedding boards.\n\nMost of the online vendors are very expensive for what you get and you only get the frame. They have received bad reviews from the above wedding sites. \n\nYou can buy kits at the local craft stores that include the pens but they don't have frames with glass. But they include Sharpie pens which should not be used for several reasons. \n\nIf you choose to buy anything locally, the best thing to do is go to a framing shop and make sure the matte is also acid-free. Purchase the acid-free archival quality pens from a local craft store.
389757
Styrofoam from anything you got shipped to you and shape it with an exacto knife, glue and paint...its should come out decent.
505011
I know this isnt the question you asked: make sure you get a paint that sticks.  \n\nYou could easily spray a layer of primer on, typically a darker gray, then paint on whatever you want.  The point is that your new material is thick enough all around that light isnt soaked into the darker base.\n\nYield and control are totally dependent on your system comprised of "tools, materials, methods, and people".  Without understanding the system its hard to make an estimate.  \n\nIf you cant make a numerical estimate, you should try running the process for a couple of days, and see what you can make.
56646
your best way to go since the paint is already dry is to use Acetone. Make sure to remove the barell from the marker and use in a very well ventilated area. also as with Gasoline, paint thinner, mineral spirits and also acetone they are ALL EXTREMELY FLAMABLE, and you should use caution when working with any of them. Make sure you clean the barell afterwords to remove any residual chemical on it. ANY paint removing chemical will damage the inside of your marker, O rings will disolve as will you seels.\n\nAlso if you really want the barrel to look great you can send the whole thing, marker and barrel to get anodized in whatever color you want. usually costs around 80-100 dollars.
25398
I have personally built 2 guitars plus I started on one that I didnt finish.  I got started on that hobby back in high school.  The teacher to my schools woodshop happened to be a professional luthier in addition to his teaching job.  He guided me step by step until the guitars were done. Made completely from scratch and came out looking pretty amazing.  Though I forgot most of what he taught me, I can offer you some advice.\n\nBe prepared to spend a lot of money on the project. Every part of guitar will cost something and it really adds up. Good quality tuning machines (the knobs on the headstock) such as Gotoh brand can cost at least $10.00 a piece or way higher.  A good quality bridge  can run into the over one hundred dollars range. Plus you need pickups, easily 80-100$ a piece. There are cheap shortcuts you can take though, like buying a premade body or neck.  That would save a lot of time and effort plus the cost of lumber.  Some more important advice I have is always use standard laquer finish if you are a beginner.  It is relatively inexpensive and simple to use. Also laquer tends to "heal" itself as you apply layer upon layer.  What I mean is the solvents in the layer of fresh laquer meld together with the other layers and this causes any imperfections in the finish to partially smooth out. But you still need to lightly sand the finish between sprays.  You can buy laquer at an auto parts store. Be sure to get a can or 2 of the colored laquer plus 2 cans of clear laquer. If the laquer is a non transparent solid color like black you will need to use some primer first.Dont use paint, its ugly and incompatable with the clearcoat laquer. There are other finishes like polyurethane, but if you use that and screw up you will have a terrible time trying to remove it.  It hardens into a nearly inpenetrable plastic shell.  I know this because I have a squier guitar that I stripped and refinished and it had a hard poly finish. The only way I removed it was with a full days worth of tedious sanding. \n\nOther advice I have is dont wire the guitar yourself unless you are 100% sure of what you are doing.  If you mess up it wont work plus you could potentially scorch the electronics and the finish with the soldering iron.  \n\nMeasuring and positioning are crucial.  I recommend the purchase of a routing template. The routed out pockets in the body have to be exactly spaced and the correct depth or else the neck and other parts wont fit correctly. \n\nFinally, dont even bother with the neck just buy one. It is way harder to build the neck than the guitar itself.  Every fret has to be exactly level and smooth and the neck has to be tapered just right. It is pretty tough.\n\nFor more advice I recommend reading the various guitars forums on the web. I may have missed some steps, its been a while since I built a guitar.
575704
you could try  a fine steelwool, i would start with 0000 and work your way up to larger grades as needed but this will remove the blueing. if the pitting is only minor i would use a soft scotchbrite pad and a light oil such as 3 in 1 oil . rub lightly, this should remove the rust with minamal damage to the finish,remove the oil with a soapy rag ,rinse with a clean rag ,let dry then touch up with a blueing pen or luiquid blue and a cotton swuab.
70414
Do you have a website, if not you should look into getting on and outting photos of your decoration online? A catalog to send to anyone that inquires after your work? what methods have you been using for marketing your business?  I am recommending a marketing book by Shel Horowitz as well as some articles I believe will be of help.  Another thing I suggest is to visit SCORE.org.  There you can search for a score counselor that has experience in the field of Decor and set up an appointment at your local chapter or simply communicate via email.  It is a free service as it's run by retired executives and business owners.\n\nGood luck
545653
you could try using acrylic undercoat