Somehow, you set up your apparatus to suck the smoke into the water, which gets grossly discolored. I can't seem to find a web or other reference on how to set this up and what exact equipment (tubing, corks/stoppers, whatever) I need to do this. All I know is that I've heard of this being done. Help will be greatly appreciated.
207378
Same principle as a hookah.  Stick the cigarette in one end of a long tube that passes through the cork and down into the water.  A short tube passes through the cork but doesn't reach the water.  Suck on the short tube (or in some other manner reduce the air pressure in the bottle), and air pressure will pull air/smoke through the cigarette and long tube and you'll get smoke filled bubbles in the water.  If you put in a screen of some kind that breaks the bubbles up into many small ones, more of the smoke will dissolve in the water.  A water pipe does this to cool the smoke.\n\nYou too young to have seen Alice's caterpillar smoking his hookah?
200401
my boss showed me this trick and it's worked for me. inhale as much as you can and hold it for 10 seconds. then after the 10 seconds, take 3 more rapid inhales. that should do the trick. good luck
591637
i don't really know about this but i'm fairly sure i can give a better answer than lrisjqoijgjr  \n\nyou could probably use a surfactant to break down the molecular attraction between the water molecules but this would leave pollution through the path of whatever you were using to travel through the water\n\nbut yeah not really practical but better than uingnpds
440998
Open it fully (not hard) and back off 1/4 to 1/2 half turn. No more or you may cause turbulence in the 1 st stage (heat it doesn't need) and potentially causing condensation in there. Not a good thing for the reg and definitely bad news if you're diving a normal reg and even an environmental, in freezing conditions. It can also cause a possible a supply issue at depth, when you need it most. Leaving it fully open, could cause the valve to stick, making detaching the 1 st stage a vexing experience to say the least.\n It is part of the course, you may have just missed it. I've seen Instructors whip through that part mumbling.\n\nEdit: I disagree with Don on the fully open part regarding overheads etc. So NOT true nor taught in any wreck course or technical diving course. You ARE taught to know your manifold without the need to think. If indeed you do start to turn it the wrong way, the little it has been shut is an immediate indicator. Also, when it's backed off just that little bit from open full, it has NO impact on supply or smoothness of flow to the 1st stage.\n\n Edit: Yup, ask your buddies, they'll agree. As for the fella that answered last...well I guess he's never seen one occur nor read even the OW manual from PADI ( I dug it out, it's in there.). It DOES happen. Just like that outdoor tap that you opened too far and need a wrench to close.\n Due to the amount of dive related questions that are popping up, this evening during a social at the local pub, I asked a pal of mine that owns a 5 star Padi to join under his shop's name. A number of years ago, this man saved my life on a wreck dive, and he's about to become a PADI Director. That's about as high as you get in that particular org as well as standing in my book. I'm not an instructor ( I got bugged again to do the course tonight for free), hence my reluctance to put the word of "god" into some of my answers here. Mine is strictly advice and experience.\n He can. Hopefully he'll join.\n If you're curious, his shop's web site is www.coltcreekdiving.com\n heck, I think there may be a pic or two of me in there too.
86204
the one on the bottom releases the line...then there is one that has an arrow in a curve going both directions engraved into the reel,,this is the drag, this allows you to put more or less pressure on a fish when you're fighting it to tire it out...then there is a button that lets you set your casting distance,,what i mean by that is --say you have cast out and are reeling in when you get a bite,,you push that button at this time and it puts a bar across the spool,,the next time you cast, the bar will stop your line putting you at the same distance as you were when you got the hit.to cast at a greater distance simply pull the button back  and it will move the bar out of the way.the only time i have found this usefull is when i was crappie fishing (since they tend to hang in groups).i guess thats why they call it the "crappie reel"!! \nit's been awhile since i used a 33 but i think there is a "clicker" button too,,,all this does is make a noise as you're reeling to give you an audible assurance that you are reeling...some people say it also gives a vibration through your line to the bait or lure but i have tested this and can feel no vibration
65292
Very wet!\n\nTry it yourself.  Take a sprinker head and put in on a hose up as high as you can support it.  Place a bucket below.  Turn on the water and adjust it until you get your 1.5 inches per minute in the bucket.  \n\nGo stand in the flow.\n\nVery wet!
58879
It's chewing tobacco that comes in a can.  You pinch a little bit out of the can, and you stick it between your lip and your gum.  It releases nicotine into your blood system.  When your mouth gets watery, you spit the saliva out.  It's not good to swallow it.  It's nasty.  Don't do it.
614376
Its a trick! you have one already tied  keep it under the top lip, then put the stem in there, while your bringing the already tied one down, and hiding or swallowing the stem, this look's like your tying it!
435073
For the cork to sink it must raise the water level. Since it must raise the water against the force of the centrifuge - pushing harder on both just doesn't do the job (of sinking the cork).
389113
1- Float and bucket: this like like your flush box on your toilet, when the condensate accumulates in the bucket, the float goes up and the pressure of the steam behind it pushes the condensate out the pisser.\n\n2- Thermodynamic traps: this works like the thermostat on you car radiator..the condensate temperature contracts the liquide in the bellows and a pin unblocks the pisser till the condensate leaks out. The steam hits the bellows, expands it and the pin blocks the pisser.\n\n3- Inverted bucket traps: simmilar to float and bucket but works in the opposit sense...O, thats enough for tonight. Hope you learned somthing...you can go to spyraxsarco.com and get the nitty grittys
34274
Put it on the back of your tongue and gulp it down with a big glass of water. The trick is to only think about drinking the water and keep your throat open. It's not big enough to get lodged or choke you.
457398
I've "witched" water before, but it is a questionable method.  I got 2 two foot long bronze brazing wires from a welder, bent them into equal sized "L"s....not everybody can do it, but you can try it over municipal water lines to see if it works for you.  I am a scientific person generally, but it does work...there is something to it.  be careful to hold them lose but level...go back and forth different directions...if you get a hit, try it from a different direction...don't let your sub-conscience mind take over and try to fool you.  there are times for me that I could not stop the crossing of the wires the indication was so strong.  The method is questionable because there is no depth meter on the wires and it could be anything, like differential density of the sub ground causing it...it could be water or something else.  I have heard of "witching" graves because of the differential density I suppose.
492930
Ok. this is simple. u need to know about buyoancy, like how air is lighter than water. all you really got do is put some small weights (ex. paper clips, rocks, etc) in the bottle. have it so that it will just barely float. then cut a hole to the side and insert the end of a tube in it. make sure it is water tight. then place it in a tub. it shold float, when you suck on the end of the tube, it should take some of the air out making it less buoyant, and therefore it will sink. there are also many other ways to do this that will make it function more like a real submarine like putting the bottle with weights inside and somehow add pressure to the the outside of the tube to compact the air inside the bottle, causing it to sink. good luck on your project
190828
Try this. I use this little deal I make at home. Used tea bags, wash them out and open them up to get them tea out, fill them with canned tuna and rubber band the top to keep it in. Attach it to your hook and hold on. It works gret in Kansas rivers.
470094
The whites have a slightly longer filter (more filtration) and holes in the side of the filter (looks like a perforated line) to allow more "clean" air in. Then end result SHOULD be lesser amounts of smoke (and tar and nicotine) actually entering the lungs. \n\nIf fingers block the holes or if the smoker inhales more deeply, it defeats these modifications.
412210
one option is to freeze the water, shape it into a concave lens shape, polish it till its transparent, and use the disk like a magnifying glass on the match head.\n\ni saw this actually done on myth busters, although it didn't go very well
491007
Go here....\n\nhttp://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/paintball1.htm\n\nand go here......\n\nhttp://www.ottersccustoms.com/works.html\n\nBasically C02 or Air comes from your tank into a regulator then into the front valve, when you pull the trigger the bolt and striker move forward, the striker pushes open the vale for a split second letting the C02 or air up into and through the bolt which blows the paintball out of the barrell. Read the articles. Pretty good I think.