instructions on mounting riflescopes
205368
here are a few links that might help
509132
http://cokestudios10.tripod.com/id1.html
338523
You wont hurt it, those things are made like tanks!  just unscrew and unbolt it.... there should have been a manual that came with your gun, it explains it there.
551380
This will be simple for You. Break the Gun Down. Make sure You put each set of Parts in a Different area so You wont get them Mixed up. Once you have the Firing Mechanism out put the New Pin inside the spring. Clean and oil the parts with WD-40 and use this sparingly. You only want a thin coat of oil on the Workings. assemble and oil the outside of the Rifle. I'm home on weekends and will walk You through this as Need Be. I own one Myself.
309563
step 1: first you find the line between the cameras and the surveilance room \n\nstep 2: strip away outer coating revealing the outerwire (NB:most av cables have one wire on the outside that covers a plastic coating which covers the inner wire )\n\nstep 4: connect alligator clips to the section of exposed wire the this should be connected to the input part of the recording device you are using\n\nstep 5: repeat step 2 15 cm down towards the camera  \n\nstep 6: create a bridge between the two sections of the exposed outerwire\n\nstep 7: now that you have created a bridge you can remove some of the outer wire between the two points to reveal the plastic coating of the inner wire\n\nstep 8: remove the plastic coating of the inner wire and place an alligator clip on the wire and connect the other end to the input part of your Recording device\n\nstep 9: make sure the feed your getting is loopable ie that there is nothing noticable that would repeat within it \n\nstep 10: ensuring it is loopable record a short section \n\nstep 11: to begin transmitting remove the wires from your input section and place them in the output section\n\nstep 12: start transmitting remove the bridge on the outer wire and then cut through the inner wire on the camera side of the connection\n\nstep 13: now comes the hard part getting into the safe without tripping the motion pressure and sound sensors
507306
http://forum.weblamp.net/index.php/topic,4971.msg25965.html?PHPSESSID=afd8763389e1b91b8340aede97dd4f62\n^Here's a site with instructions.
652527
put safety on, hold trigger, pull bolt open, then straight out
114885
There are some charts on these pages:\nhttp://www.pen.k12.va.us/Div/Winchester/tech/bob/survey3.htm\n\nhttp://www.spatialinsights.com/catalog/product.aspx?product=111
527621
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, let's take the Army principle, very infantry proof, if it isn't broken, don't take it apart! That being said...\n\nThere are two ways to take a firing pin apart. Both, eventually, require taking your 14 apart. The first way requires the use of a Garand combination chamber cleaning tool (an M-10 tool may also work, but I've never used one). \n\nInsert the chamber brush into the chamber, \nhave the "arm" pointed at 3:00, \nclose the bolt on the chamber brush, \nas you rotate the arm counterclockwise the back of the chamber brush base will catch on the extractor, \nleave the bolt closed and lift the extractor out of the bolt [if a long pin does not appear, you broke the extractor], \nslowly pull the bolt back, you will have a small ball bearing and spring plus the ejector and spring [both under pressure] that will come out of the bolt face, \nremove the op rod from the bolt, \ntake the receiver out of the stock, \ntake the bolt out of the guide rails, \nthen you can slide the firing pin out of the bolt.\n\nTo put your rifle back together just reverse the above steps. \n\nThe other way is a little more expensive. Fulton Armory has a handy-dandy bolt tool for the M1/M14. It sells for about $45. \nYou take the bolt out of your rifle,\nput the bolt in the bolt tool,\ncompress the lever on the tool like a nutcracker,\ntake out the extractor,\nease the pressure on the arm, \ncatch the detente pin and spring (the ball bearing),\nremove the ejector and spring, \nremove the bolt from the tool,\nslide the firing pin out.\n\nAgain, to put it back together just reverse the steps.\n\nPlease, do not tell us that you are deployed and this is your issue battle weapon! If it is it sounds like the "Army way".\n\nJust a tip when you sight in your rifle... do not rest the bullseye on the post like a lollipop. Put the sight post in the middle of the bullseye. This will increase the chance of hitting your target everytime. If the bullet hits where you plant the front sight, no matter what is going on wherever you put the front sight you will hit what you are aiming at (provided you have the right distance dialed in). \n\nGood luck and good hunting.
428436
it can be done, but you usually have to be close, especially with a dueling pistols... if you use a larger caliber... like my 44mag, i finished off an elk with it... and i know of people who have scopes mounted on theirs...
662563
1. MAKE SURE YOUR PISTOL IS UNLOADED!  \nI can't stress this enough.  \nRemove the magazine and retract the slide to ensure \nthe chamber is clear.  \n  \n2. Disassemble the pistol according to the owner's manual. \n I can't help you much here. If you don't know the proper procedure  \ninvolved, you should probably stop reading right now and search the \nInternet, or post a query to the rec.guns newsgroup.\n  \n  \n3. Place a few drops of solvent into the breech end of the barrel. \nFor this purpose you can see I'm using BreakFree CLP.  \n  \n4. Insert the bore brush from the breech end and brush out the \nbarrel. \nAccording to some, this is where the greatest potential for damaging  \nyour barrel occurs.  Be sure to keep the sides of the cleaning rod from  \ntouching the inside of the barrel.  Always start the brush into the barrel \nfrom the breech (chamber) end.  Also, avoid touching the crown of the \nmuzzle with the cleaning rod.  Some people are so concerned with  \ndamaging the muzzle crown that don't pull the brush back  \nthrough from the muzzle end -- they unscrew the brush, remove the  \nrod, and reassemble the rod and brush for another pass through the  \nbore.  Personally, I don't bother with that level of caution, since I  \nfeel that by the time my practices damage the crown my gun will  \nhave bigger problems at that pont. \n\nAnyway, make several passes through the bore, until you feel the  \nfouling has been removed. \n  \n  \n5. Run patches through the bore.  \nPlace a clean patch on your jag, wet with solvent, and pass it  \nthrough the bore.  This will remove the crud you've just loosened with  \nyour brushing.  \n\nRepeat with another clean, solvent-soaked patch, and then \nrun a dry, clean patch through the bore.  Inspect the barrel for remaining \nfouling (dark smears along the rifling).  If necessary, repeat Steps 3-5. \n\nWhen cleaned to your satisfaction, run a lightly oiled patch through the \nbarrel, followed by a clean dry patch.  If you're using CLP or Ed's Red,  \ndon't bother; there's already an oily film in the bore for corrosion protection.\n  \n  \n6. Clean the slide.  \nUsing a solvent-soaked patch, rag, or toothbrush, clean the fouling and any  \nsmeared oil off the inside and outside of the slide.  Pay special attention to  \nthe following  areas: locking lug grooves (if any), muzzle end of slide (where \nbarrel tip moves inside the slide), breech face (where firing pin hole is), and  \nunderneath the extractor, a particularly common place for gunk to collect -- \nand cause problems.  In the second image to the right, I indicate the area \nunder the extractor.  I like to use a toothpick to clear out the often hardened \nlead and powder fouling from this area. \n\nAlso, don't forget the grooves where the slide fits the frame -- you want to  \ndefinitely remove any grit or oily sludge from this area.\n  \n  \n7. Clean the frame.  \nAgain, remove any fouling or caked-on carbon you find.  Pay extra  \nattention to the area where the barrel locking lugs fit into the frame \n(usually right ahead of the trigger area),  as well as the slide rails which \nwill likely contain an oily or gritty sludge.  Get a handful of Q-tips if  \nnecessary.  Don't forget the bottom of the magazine well.\n  \n  \n8.  Lubricate according to manufacturer's recommendations. \nRefer to your owner's manual for recommended lubrication points.  If  \nyou don't have a manual, here's what I generally do:  \n\n1) very lightly oil the moving parts of the trigger and hammer assemblies,  \nand any other moving internal parts (be sure to wipe away excess) \n\n2) lightly oil or grease the surfaces of the slide rail areas on the slide and  \nframe,  \n\n3) lightly oil or grease the locking lug area (ahead of the ejection port), cycle \nthe slide, and wipe off any excess (see first photo to right) \n\n4) lightly wipe the exterior surfaces with an oily patch o
646490
thats up to you if you want it back on. just use open sights.
529351
http://www.Blackhawk.com is the leading supplier of military tactical gear, as for the different scopes, they use Eotech and various others, http://www.badassknives.com/default.cfm  is a good site for other military gear. First Samco is the manufacturer of most of the tactical pic rail systems they use in the military.
48236
close one eye and stare at a single point. then using a protractor or something move a yardstick with a red dot sticking out of the end up or down to a point where you cant see it, mabby we dont have one
49627
Simply follow these instructions...
401813
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThe height of your scope rings is directly dependent upon the diameter of your scope's objective lens and your rifle barrel's contour!\n\nOne thing you need to keep in mind, is that the ring height you select will have an effect on how you place your face on the cheek piece! The taller the ring, the higher the cheek piece you be in your stock! For the 32 mm objective, I would use the low rings ... if and when you move to a 42mm objective, then get the taller rings!\n\nGood luck!
227349
Go to this site..\n\namerican-infrared.com/product/Prod_flir_470_files/Prod_flir_470.html