Does it matter what type of bushings I buy for the fit... im not talking about hardness levels... also do you know of any\ngood online vendors? ! already know about solidskate and longskate and ALSO anyone ever ride the deep carve gullwings what is the real name of them and do you know where I would get them. THANKS!
205172
I ride a Gravity.  Independent trucks are the way to go. I'm sure they have their own website you can checkout.
199569
I would try on Ebay to be honest you can find a decent trolling motor with those specifications.If you were to say order one from bass proo or cabelas you'd be pinned down to buying this years models along with the high prices.\ntight lines,\nBrian
37089
you might want to go during the summer to a ski shop. they will have boards that they demoed last year in good condition and good quality for cheap prices. also you might want to get last years modle. i got $1100 skis for $400 and they were really nice. you would also want to get last years modle for boots. that doesn't mean there bad the ski shop just wants to get rid of them. you might want to go to a ski swap because that stuff is usually good. if you need to you might want to use ebay but im not sure the security of that. good luck finding the gear!
24427
at a pro shop.... or like riedell.com\n\nyou should get reidells , i cant tell you what kind cause i dont know what kind you want ;)
506027
This is an answer I gave to a similar question sometime ago:\n\nThe best option is to go to a resort that has a good Demo shop, that way you can try before you buy. If you can't do that go to a good board shop and not a big box store (like Big 5 or Copelands) as the people working at the board shop will probably have a better idea as to what they are talking about.\n\nYou're right, there are tons and tons of choices out there. When buying a board you need to ask yourself a few important questions.\n\n1.)How good am I?\n2.)How much do I ride?\n3.)Where do I ride?\n4.)What conditions do I ride most?\n5.)What type of rider am I?\n\nThese will help you determine what board is going to be best for you.\n\nBoards specs are confusing but I'll try and breakdown the important ones for you and what you need to look for in them.\n\nLength. There is no right or wrong length as different lengths are better for different styles of riding. Remember that your height has nothing to do with it as a board has no idea how tall you are. Most boards have a range of weights that they are suited for. Generally, a longer board is more stable and requires a bit more from it's rider to perform well and a shorter board is less stable but very easy to manuever. For the most part, freeriders who are riding powder or at very high speeds like a longer board and park riders (especially jibbers) like shorter boards for their reduced swing weight and extra manueverability. Off the top of my head I'd recommend a board no shorter than a 154 for you.\n\nWidth. This is possibly the most important measurement. How big are your feet? You should ride a board that is wide enough that your heels and your toes are just above their edges. If you have too much toe or heel drag you will hang up on your turns (excess toe drag leads to excess chin drag). If your board is too wide then it will increase the effort it will take to get the board over on edge. I've actually torn the arch of my foot riding a board that was too wide (yeah, it hurt). Go for the narrowest board possible as the performance gains of quick edge control far outweigh the minimal benefit the extra width will gain you in deep snow. It's a good idea to bring your boots with you to the shop to help with this.\n\nSidecut. When you look at a board you can see that the sides of it are cut in. If you use your imagination, you can see that this cut actually begins the arc of a circle. A board with more cut draws a smaller circle and is better suited for smaller turns. A board with less cut draws out a bigger circle for bigger turns. Generally, park riders like a board with more cut as they need that added manueverability to line up the features in the park. A freerider is usually riding faster and making bigger turns than a park rider so they usually go for a board with less cut. Also, a board with deeper cut can "hook" in powder a bit. Keep in mind that it is easier to get a longer turn out of a board with more cut than it is to get a shorter turn out of a board with less cut. (am I confusing you yet?)\n\nFlex. This is the most subjective part to buying a board. A stiffer board is much more stable and responsive but requires more attention from it's rider and will fatigue you more. A softer board is very comfortable and easy to ride but will not respond as well or be as stable, especially at speed. Jibbers like soft boards as they are less likely to hook up on the rails and freeriders like the response of stiffer boards. Most boards these days are built with a flex pattern, meaning that they can be stiff in a certain aspect and soft in another. A great park board will have a stiffer tip and tail for better pop and stability in landing but will have a soft torsional (side to side) flex that will help on the rails or when coming up a little short landing a spin. A great freeride board will be stiff in the tail and underfoot for better drive and softer in the tip to help turn
368016
What you need to do is ppp out the old bushings and take them to a place that sells bearings... Bearings Inc. or Kaman are 2 common places...and they'll measure them then point you to the right items.
388989
i think the website's called www.blackholeboards.com ... last time i checked they sold really cheap, search "buy enjoi deck" in google, youl get plenty of websites... ccs.com, skateamerica.com, try those too
189127
burton or kemper. thats all i ever use, and have been using for years. they both have some pretty mellow graphics, not super flashy. i she a beginner or advanced? fiberglass cores are nice. woodcores get waterlogged. metal edged to great turns!
342023
Out of the brands you have listed i would probably go for Sims as i have ridden one of there boards ( the fader ) before and really liked it. Ive ridden a morrow board before and hated it as it felt really stiff and heavy, but it doesent mean that its nessesarily a bad make its just that particular board didn't suit me. Out of the other companys you have mentioned i have never ridden any of there boards so its hard to give an accurate idea of which are the better ones. But M3 are quite respected and had an excellent team a few years back so they would be good, and LTD and Lemar are known for selling cheap but really good value for money boards and would be worth a try. \nSo if i were you i would go for Sims first them M3 and then probably Lemar. To be honest all these brands are ok you don't need to go for Burton like most of the people on this site think. I imagine that most of the people who rate them so highly have never ridden any other board and just like them as they are the most hyped brand. Yeah they are good but so are many other companys out there which sell boards at alot more reasonable price. Hope this helps you a bit
533768
I own an 05 165 Burton S-series and for what it is, I like it alot.\n\nWith the skins on, in walk mode, it works very well on steep climbs. Great traction and the fairly short length make switchbacks easy. The board is heavy and after a long hike I really feel it in my hips. The fact that you don't have to lift your feet as high as you would hiking with snow shoes on and then not having to ride with too much extra gear on your back evens this out for me a bit. I'm seriously considering some lighter bindings to help lighten the load as every ounce shaved makes a difference on a long hike. \n\nWhen you get to the top putting it back together is simple and it offers a great ride. In soft snow conditions the difference between this board and a non-split board is hardly noticable, it's a little softer than I'd like but that isn't a big deal. In hard conditions you can definately feel the difference but this has never bothered me as I would never ride this board in anything but powder or spring conditions. I've only dropped some small cliffs (10 footers or so) and it seems to handle it just fine, again it's a bit soft for this (at least softer than boards I like) but it stayed together no worries.\n\nNow for the cons. This board sucks for touring. In walk mode, always keep the skins on and don't try to ski it. Waaaaay too short and soft not too mention that the binding interface in walk mode isn't the strongest or stiffest of attachments. If the conditions are right and you practice alot you might be able to pull off some tele-turns on it but I find it's more trouble than it's worth. I find that it is much faster to just walk it (meaning using the board in walk mode with the skins on) over rolling terrain as stopping to put it together for a short descent and then taking it apart again for a climb and then repeating takes too much time and energy. Some friends have suggested I try kick-skins with it (kick skins are very short narrow skins that you stick to your base just underfoot and they allow just enough traction on flat ground or small climbs but allow for enough glide to make the skis a bit more skiable) but I haven't had a chance yet.\n\nOverall, it shouldn't be your only board and I'd never take it out at a resort but if you plan to make a lot of trips into the backcountry it's a great board for that. Definately practice with it on short backcountry trips before you really go for it. Oh and be sure to study up on your avalanche knowledge (consider taking a course) and never go into the back country alone and never forget a probe, shovel and beacon. You don't want to die out there.\n\nHere's a good website to check out:\n\nhttp://www.splitboard.com/
575033
You're half way to answering that question yourself.\nKeep trying different putter head weights, length of shaft, mallet vs. blade, straight shaft vs bent, etc...\n\nDon't always buy the most expensive or newest product. Sometimes a quick lesson with your club pro and your old putter are what you are seeking to become a better putter.
639525
I want a G'Loomus Jig N' Worm casting rod that's 7'1" MH action, and a Shimano Calais 6.2:1 casting reel, model CL200ASV.  All together, not including line I would have to spend\n$744.99, and that is $744.99 more than I have.  I am working to become a professional fisherman, and one day will have that dream rig.  I put the links up for you to check out if you want.  Tight lines
330209
I am very fond if the Inov-8 Rocklite 385's. Exact match to my  trail running needs, VERY LIGHT and FAST\n\nElite Trail and Adventure racing shoe providing high levels of comfort and grip performance. Has a low profile midsole with sticky rubber outsole. Radical design upper provides excellent support while the patent pending fascia-band™ aids propulsion efficiency of the running cycle. Ideal for Trail Running and Adventure Racing on mixed single track.
430186
the reason u only fine them at dicks is because dicks owns walter hagen. walter hagen makes their own clubs but dicks owns them. they are very good clubs. my dad and i both bought the SB-3 irons, i also have the 3 and 5 woods. i love them all and i will buy a putter and wedge too. they are great clubs. good quality and low price. i actually work at dicks and we have a couple of walter hagen clubs in our range and they've been beat up quite a bit by hackers. theres dents on them and they still hit great. dad has the walter hagen AWS driver. the older version. not the comp. any other questions email me at ryansnite@yahoo.com
457117
Wtf... if you don't want "blank decks"... i think there are 3 main good brands of decks... Personally, my favorite deck is Zero. They have good pop, good designs, and easy to get used to... i have skated with zero basically my whole skating life...\n\nThe next board i like to use is foundation. Foundation is really good for street skating, but it is for experienced skaters. It is kinda wide board, so if you havn't skated for long, dont try out on a foundation.\n\nThe next board, is one ive heard about through other people give it props. Which is Alien Workshop. A lot of people have told me that they are the best all around decks, but im not sure, ive only skated them a couple of times\n\nStay away from blind [FLIMSY!!!],  birdhouse [heavy and hard to ollie with], and element [massly built cheaply].
17945
Try some on for size.\n\nJust make sure the action is low enough to play comfortably but not so low that it buzzes.\n\nIts good to stick to namebrands.  They've been in the business a long time for a reason.
196755
Check gander Mountain.  i think I bought afew there last summer.  They are great jigs and the fish just love them!  I have to go to the Gander Mountain here and I'll check for them.  If u can't find any send me an e-mail and I might be able to send some to you.