in my country the dye houses used formica cid\nwith polyester dyes and now it is good to use buffer and i want to prepare this buffer to sell it to these dyehomes so can any one tell me how can i prepare this and thanks
206410
formic acid is methanoic acid, mixed with sodium methanoate it will create the buffer they are using.
33070
This website has a nice step by step explanation of how to make dye using plants:\nhttp://www.pioneerthinking.com/naturaldyes.html\nThis site has a listing of common plants that can be used for dye and a more detailed explanation of how to make the dye.\nhttp://www.kidsgardening.com/growingideas/projects/may03/pg1.html\nHope this is helpful :-)
447557
Probably not because albumin is a protein and in order to have a buffer you need an acid and a base. The best buffers use a weak acid and a weak base.....
126970
I suggest that you create a supersaturated solution first. Reason being that the more highly saturated the solution, the better the formation of the crystal and the larger the end product. This can easily be done by heating your solvent to a very high temperature and stiring in copious amounts of whatever is going to make up your crystal. Lower the heat as it goes and you should idealy end up with a very viscous solution, not so much of a liquid but more to the kind of stuff you get when you mix a bit of cornstarch with water. Thereafter dump everything in a beaker or bowl and suspend a thin wax thread in the solution itself. Cover up the bowl and leave to set for a few days. If you have done it correctly you should see a very nice, large crystal forming. Just a note though, don't let the thread touch the bottom of the bowl or even any thing other than the solution, or your crystal will be lopsided
11341
there is a type of dye sold at Wal Mart and other general department stores like that called RIT and you use it in the wash cycle. It works fairly well and isnt very expensive. There are directions on the bottles for the way to go about it. Try it out! Good luck!
361740
You can get putty like ones from art shops that remove dark HB and pretty much destroy anything apart from the pressure on the paper. they need to be cleaned a lot but can be molded to an easy shape and are dabbed rather than rubbed which means less white flakes and little paper ripping.
403806
Potassium permanganate (KMnO4) stains fabrics, fingers, and paper a dark brown color. The coffee-colored stains often can't be scrubbed off, and they may persist until the outer layer of stained skin wears off (in a day or two). It's more than just a nuisance for students and laboratory workers. Municipal water supplies are sometimes overtreated with permanganate ion to kill microbes and parasites, and when that water is chlorinated, swimming pools and porcelain can be badly stained.\nPermanganate itself is a deep purple color (almost black). The brown stain develops when permanganate decomposes into crystalline manganese dioxide on the skin or fabric surface:\n\n4 MnO4-(aq) + 4 H+(aq) = 3 O2(g) + 2 H2O() + 4 MnO2(s)\n\nThe tiny crystals of MnO2 become trapped in the pores and complex surfaces of the skin. The crystals are insoluble, and washing with water will only dislodge a few loose crystals. If the stain is on a nonliving surface, try treating it with a weak hydrochloric acid solution. Hydrochloric acid can reduce the MnO2 to water-soluble Mn2+:\n\nMnO2(s) + 4 HCl(aq) = MnCl2(aq) + Cl2(aq) + 2 H2O()\n\nCuriously, permanganate's oxidizing power makes it very useful for removing stains. Permanganate oxidation breaks the molecules of large, highly colored substances into smaller pieces. The excess permanganate is then removed chemically or by quickly rinsing.\n\nFor example, book collectors remove stains from old paper by washing the paper with a weak solution of permanganate; a rinse of sulfurous acid is used to remove the permanganate before it locks into the paper fibers and turns it brown. The same trick can be used to remove indelible inks from concrete. Photographers use permanganate to bleach stains caused by certain developing chemicals.\n\nHope that helps!!!
509611
1. hot wash of coloreds with (without) prewash\n2. hot wash in energy-saving mode with (without) prewash\n3. easy to wash laundry with (without) prewash\n4. easy to wash laundry in energy-saving mode with (without) prewash\n5. delicates with (without) prewash\n6. wool\n7. coloreds short program\n8. easy to wash laundry short program\n9. fabric softening, starching, spinning\n10. softening, starching\n11. spinning\n12. extra prewash - soaking\n13. gentle spinning\n14. pumping\n\n{o} = program with stoppage of rinsing. Before emptying the washing machine (i.e. removing the laundry) select 8+A o. 9+A.
390085
There are no set values for either the ingredients or the percentages of composition for water based wall putties.\n\nWhite cement, gray cement, polymers and plastic resins, various chemicals and mineral fillers (including plaster of Paris and gypsum) have all been used.  Sometimes pigments are added.\n\nSome of these putties are designed to stop water seepage and others are not.
622482
go to this website...................... \n\nhttp://www.sigmaaldrich.com/Local/SA_Splash.html\n\nSigma-Aldrich has a very large variety of chemicals in small or large amounts.
157949
Here are lists of acids.  Most are not practical because they are too weak, too strong, react with the textile, or the biggest reason, they cost too much.  \n\nGive us the criteria for your needed acid and why the acids currently used will not work in your situation.  Your question is not clear.\n\nhttp://www.zirchrom.com/organic.htm\n\nhttp://www.cem.msu.edu/~reusch/VirtualText/acidity2.htm
167082
if you are trying to build a model - i would recommend either a playdo type creation or if you wanted to be fancy - use a jello mold.\n\nJello mold you make the mini components first and let them harden.  then put them in place in and outside of your 'membrane' and fill in with a clear jello (knox).  The clear represents your axon and cell membrane with your multicolored preformed pieces acting as your pump, na, and K+\n\nhave fun!
371352
In general, dyes can be considered normal chemicals. Try looking into processing some chemicals that you are familiar with, for example ethanol, bleach, vinegar (acetic acid), etc.
372107
Your question is incomplete.  What type of stains are you talking about?  Looking at the properties of the stain and you may find the answer you need.
99119
Check out the buffer recipe calculator at <http://www.bioinformatics.org/JaMBW//5/4/index.html>\n\nSome things to consider:\n\nAt what temperature do you want the pH to be 7.5? (the pKa of tris-base varies as a function of T)\n\nWhat ionic strength do you need?
154332
Paper chromatography is a modern method used separate mixtures. Paper chromatography uses paper as the stationary phase and a liquid solvent as the mobile phase.\n\nYou will use paper chromatography to test food colorings to see if the color results from a single dye or mixture of dyes. If you cannot get food coloring you can use colored felt pens or other water soluble coloring pens. Your exercise is simple but uses very essential principles. An optional part of the activity is to check a household product for the presence of the same dyes that are in food coloring.\n\nThe technique relies on the idea that the solvent and the paper both have an attraction for the components in a mixture. The solvent creeps along the surface of the paper. If a material is placed on one spot on the paper and is soluble in the liquid solvent, the material will be dissolved when the solvent moves over it. The material will move along with the solvent. Each compound in a mixture will have its own characteristic balance of attractions to solvent and to paper, so all will not move at the same speed. Eventually this difference in speed will separate the compounds.\n\nIn paper chromatography when the conditions are kept constant, a particular compound always travels a fixed percentage of the distance traveled by the solvent front. The ratio of the distance the compound travels to the distance the solvent travels is called the Rf value. The symbol Rf stands for "retardation factor" or "ratio-to-front". It is expressed as a decimal fraction. When the conditions are duplicated, the same average relative positions will turn up for the solvent and solute; thus the Rf value is a constant for a given compound. The Rf value is a physical property for that compound. The Rf value is useful in identifying compounds, but other properties should be used in combination with the Rf value to confirm compound identification. Since it is difficult for different laboratories to exactly duplicate conditions for a chromatography experiment, Rf values are more useful for comparisons within one lab than for comparisons of data from different labs.\n\nSubstances that are not colored can also be separated by chromatography. They are detected using ultraviolet or black light. These substances appear to glow in the dark.
190353
Leveling agent usual are used for limiting solubility of disperse dyes, prenenting attachment, or blocking dye sites.  They can be surfactants or something as simple as sodium sulfate.\n\nhttp://www.allproducts.com/sup006/centrachino/p06.html\n\nretarder - a chemical added to a dye bath to reduce the rate at which dye attaches to the fibre; also called leveling agents\nA retarder may be required to prevent a dye from attaching to fibres so quickly that it would be very difficult to\nachieve level dyeing. Retarders are often used with acid dyes. They may work by quickly attaching to the fibre\nthereby temporarily keeping the dye from attaching, or by quickly attaching to the dye, temporarily keeping the\nfibre from attaching to the dye. Simple chemicals such as sodium sulfate may act as retarders for some dyes in some\nconditions. There are many retarders on the market that are proprietary mixtures of chemicals, often formulated to\nbe companions for specific dye families. Reserving agents can be thought of as a special class of retarder. The\navailability to art dyers of retarders is limited. {Rev 3.0.0r}