I think that one is pretty self explanitory.  If you've got some good brands for me to check out, let me know.  Also, if you know of any good books on the configuration of lights for this purpose, throw it out there.  Any answers are appreciated!  Thanks!  Also - Try and answer my other question in Do It Yourself asking "How do I get a bar?"
202587
Don't worry about brands of lights. Light is light, and it doesn't matter who made the instrument. What you really need to worry about is how many lights you can get, what you're pointing them at, and who's going to be in charge of setting them up? Since you're working with little/no budget you have to make the most of your resources. Have you considered using *no* lights? If you've never heard of Dogma films, then take a while to read about them.\n\nhttp://www.google.com/search?q=dogma+95&start=0&ie=utf-8\n\nThe Dogma films prove that quality movies can be made with no outside lighting at all, and it's definitely worth a look.\n\nIf you're determined to use outside lights, then you're going to have to get them from somewhere. Borrowing or renting is the way to go, as buying them will be prohibitively expensive. If you go the rental route, be sure to mention that you're a student / indie filmmaker. Many rental houses will cut you a break now in hopes of keeping your business later.\n\nThe next key thing to worry about is who's in charge of the lights. A competent cinematographer can do more with four well-placed lights than an amateur with a truck full of equipment. Get someone with experience shooting on DV, and take full advantage of what they know. Make sure they can shoot *your* kind of movie, as well. Someone who's shot twenty horror films and nothing else might be completely useless if you're making a romantic comedy.\n\nThere are a million books on cinema lighting, and I can't really say that there's one best one out there. If you don't have much of a background in lighting then the most basic place you should start is reading up on three-point lighting.\n\nGoogle for "three-point lighting"\n\nhttp://www.google.com/search?q=three+point+lighting&start=0&ie=utf-8\n\nA clear explanation of 3-point for computer-generated scenes. (It's still the same theory)\n\nhttp://www.andrew-whitehurst.net/3point.html\n\nLast but not least, read a little about color temperature, color correcting gels, diffusion, and the tools you need to cut & shape lights (flags, silks, nets, cookies). Those fine touches are what separate amateur lighting (which looks doubly worse on video) from professional level work.
540683
Compact Fluorescent Lamps\n\n  ************************************************************************\n  *                  COMPACT FLUORESCENT LIGHT BULBS                     *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *                       **** Version 1.10 ****                         *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *                      Copyright (C) 1996, 1999                        *\n  *                        Samuel M. Goldwasser                          *\n  *                        Donald L. Klipstein                           *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *        Corrections or suggestions to: sam@stdavids.marconimed.com    *\n  *                                       don@misty.com                  *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *                     --- All Rights Reserved ---                      *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *    Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted    *\n  *    if both of the following conditions are satisfied:                *\n  *                                                                      *\n  *     1. This notice is included in its entirety at the beginning.     *\n  *     2. There is no charge except to cover the costs of copying.      *\n  *                                                                      *\n  ************************************************************************\n\n...\n\n8.  Like other fluorescents, operation at cold temperatures (under around\n    50 degrees F) may cause reduced light output or erratic operation.\n    Some models work fairly well down to about 35 degrees F, others may\n    get noticeably dim below 60 degrees F.  The optimum temperature range\n    of a particular lamp may vary with burning position, generally\n    preferring cooler temperatures if operated base-down.\n    Compact fluorescents may also not like excessive heat.  Some ballasts\n    are unreliable in ambient temperatures much over 120 degrees F.  This\n    is sometimes a problem in enclosed or recessed ceiling fixtures if\n    heat in the fixture builds up.
67845
use black light,u will find it in any good store
456207
I would recommend investing in some bright movement censored lights. This will alert you to any movements. For the day time use movement censors with buzzers.
343735
Ok, at the risk of being blunt, if you need to ask this, you might be better of leaving things well alone - or doing as the other person suggested and using a transormer to lower the voltage to begin with.\n\nHowever.........\n\nFirst of all, you need to plonk a diode in line really, LED's do not like AC so the diode will make things into "raggy DC", using a bridge rectifier would be better and would reduce the flickering, as would plonking a capacitor over the DC output - typically with AT LEAST a 380V rating if using a bridge and a 200V rating if using a single diode.\n\nStill with me?\n\nYou now need to work out the voltage drop over the LED's - this varies according to type - and mainly colour. About 1.8V for a typical RED LED and around 4v for a white one.\n\nYou then need to look at how many volts you have "left" after you have taken into account all of the LED's in series.\n\nEG:  You take 220V, use a single diode (110 v) and then pop a cap over to stop the flicker (around 160V)\n\nYou now have 30 red, 20 green and 10 blue LED's in series. Assume 1.8V drop on Red, 2.2V on Green and 4.1V on blue.\n54v  + 44v + 22v = 120v\nThis gives us 40v to "burn off" with a resistor.\n\nLet us assume you want to drive the LED's at 20mA\n\nR = V/I   therefore  R = 40/.02 = 2000 Ohms\n\nPower = I x I x R  (current sqaured 8 resistance) so the resistor will be dissipating 800mW - Allowing for plenty of play and wanting a warm rather than hot resistor, then 2w ideally.\n\n\nSo a 2K2 resistor - or 1K8 for a bit brighter would be your answer here (for the number of LEDS and type), rated at 2W or better.\n\nAs I said at the beginning, if ONE step of this doesn't make GOOD sense to you, PLEASE leave WELL alone.\n\n\n\nPLEASE DO NOT use this as a way to hook up the leds exactly as shown WITHOUT first checking their "forward voltage losses", I have used typical examples, different models can vary considerably.
148127
I think that the flashlight beam is brighter and easier to direct than an overhead light. Additionally, it might be a good visual cue to be systematic about checking an area thoroughly....plus, there's the cool factor......
413580
I start with the lights at the bottom already pluged in and go up. any extra can be blended in. then i put on the  garland from the bottom up and then fill in the spaces with ornaments. I also have a lighted star for the top. i think most people gaze at the bottom of the tree and then look up. if the bottom is bare then its more noticeable then at the top because you can fill in with ornaments at the top
445996
Try an incandescent light bulb; Wikipedia says argon is used in them.
462171
check our pcdj.com they have a new lighting program for pc control with full dmx protocol\n\nits called " DMX"\n\nyou can program the lights to go with certain songs...etc,  its amazing!
188487
Smoke or fog will work.  There are also 100mW red lasers out there (wickedlasers.com should do the trick) that have some visibility in daylight, but this always depends on there being something (even the tiniest amount of dust) in the air to scatter off of.
453251
No -- more than likely, they just Pull out -- and if it is like most -- then you can purchase those tiny multi-color lights that have the little twin wires coming out of them for replacements.\n\nSo I would suggest you go to your local Discounter and look first in their Christmas Displays for a Mini-Light Puller -- and purchase it (shouldn't be more than a couple of dollars).  Use that mini light puller on the light itself (you will know it is mini lights if the light is sitting in a plastic base with what looks like a separation between the base and a plastic ring).  Then insert the puller so that it is lodged in the separation, and pull straight up.\n\nIF that works -- congrats, you have mini-lights in your Pre-Lit Christmas Tree.\n\nOtherwise, if it is a Fiber Optic Tree -- the procedure is pretty much the same -- but there will be a Halogen Bulb in the base that will screw apart (or sometimes pull apart too) and you will be able to replace that as well.
436989
The voltage readings on the light bulbs are not what they definitely operate in, but optimim values. What is constant is their resistances, and connecting a larger voltage to a lower valued bulb will increase the current across it, and there is a possibility that this will burn the bulb.\n\nHowever, if you connect several bulbs in series to a higher voltage source, i.e. 3, 3, and 6, to a voltage source of 12 V, they should all be within the optimim values.\n\nGenerally speaking though, the bulbs in your example should still be ok (although they will shine much more brightly) unless you connect them in parrallel. (a volmeter across them would probably read about 4V and 8V if you connect them in series)
496226
Reference to the Freedman article on Light Brigade is below.  I couldn't find any with the other title or author.  The laser technology have been in development for years.  The second reference is to organic light emitting devices.  Perhaps that is related to what you are talking about.  But until you say something about what fate of what new magnets, I can't directly address your question.\n\nTechnologies this promising usually make it into production unless they hit some technical or financial roadblock, or something better comes along first.
398472
Hmmm, curious.\n\nIf the bulb has a filament you can see, then yet, it will almost certain be dimmable.\n\nI cannot see why there would need to be a trasformer in the box, if you try and wore the lamp in series with a 400Watt rated dimmer, th e worst that is likely to happen is you kill the dimmer.\n\nTry and find a bit more about this (make/model/type) and pop up another question, we can then give better feedback
204912
wrap the bar in insulated copper wire, preferably solid core, keeping the wraps smooth and close together, and wrap three layers deep- when you reach the end of the first layer just wrap back towards the end you started at, same thing on third layer- them hook a DC power supply to the ends of the wire wrap, and let the thing run for 3-4 days (make sure when you hook it up that it doesn't heat much if any) pretty soon you've got a magnet.
404190
First of all, congrats on a great idea.  I was so happy when I saw someone on ESPN at the Sunday night game with a B-Lock sign.  It made my night.\n\nMy first thought was to go buy one of those tri-fold displays like you use for business presentations, or more commonly, for science fair in like 8th grade.  Chop the two outside folds off and use the middle for your light switch.  If you want a 2D sign, just draw the switch, or if you're a big nerd/geek/drama-production-builder/my hero, use the leftover cardboard from the two flaps and actually make a 3D switch by cutting a narrow slit in the middle of the main switch section and sliding one of the two flaps through it to make a real working switch.\n\nLet us know how it goes!
286098
Voltage drops for multiple lighting systems are usually handled by using 277 volt AC. \n\nThe multicore cable is something I have no working knowledge on.  Sorry better to say so than to BS you.