I want to know about the gas turbine control especially about the V94.2 type consist of start up , speed , load temperature loop
203803
You need to be talking to gas turbine manufacturers or packagers like Solar, GE, Allison or others.
67924
Try howstuffworks.com:\nhttp://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm\n\nAs my technology teacher told us, "Intake.  Compression.  Combustion.  Exhaust."  We repeated that over and over again while standing and squatting and pumping our hands up and down.  Good times.
325262
Heat exchangers, natural heating/cooling, jet mixing
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Go to the HP site to get the user manual: \nhttp://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/bpia5323.pdf\n\n\nGo to this site for a HUGE load of info: \nhttp://www.engineering.usu.edu/cee/faculty/gurro/Software_Calculators/HP48_49G_Docs/HP49G+.html\n\n~ hth
125421
http://www.alkaseltzer.com/home/default.htm\nTry this.
299252
http://www.thermo.ae/thermo/default.htm
99390
The link discusses the operating curves for typical fans including centrifugal fans.  The article also discusses the fan laws that are necessary to understand fan operation and selection.  Good luck.
109956
Here are the specs on the engine \nVG30DETT\nThe 3.0 L (2960 cc) VG30DETT produces 280 hp and 283 ft.lbf when mated with a 4 speed automatic transmission. When used with a 5spd manual transmission, it was rated at 300hp and 283tq. It featured twin T25 turbochargers, twin intercoolers and variable valve timing.\n\nIt is used in the following vehicles:\n\n1990–1996 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo \n1990–1999 Nissan Fairlady Z Twin Turbo \n\nHere is how to tell if it is a genuine 300 ZX TT\n\nThe twin-turbo Z32s can be spotted with a different front bumper featuring three vents for supplying air to the dual intercoolers, as opposed to the naturally aspirated (NA) models. They also came with the requisite "Twin Turbo" badging in the rear and a subtle tail spoiler, which was enlarged and redesigned in 1994. It also featured larger 245/45-16 and 16x8.5 wheels in the back as opposed to the 225/50-16 tires in front and on the NA version.\n\nOne major difference between the VG30E(T) in the Z31 and the VG30DE(TT) placed in the Z32 was the dual overhead cam design and variable valve timing system (which was removed in 1996 to meet smog regulation).\n\nThe platform was new, with a longer 97-in wheelbase and sophisticated multi-link suspension front and rear. Twin Turbo models featured electronically adjustable shock absorbers, and Nissan's all-wheel-steering system SUPER HICAS (Super High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension), which could turn the rear wheels a full two degrees at speed.
36271
I'm not sure what that 1498 code is exactly, but the coolant temperature sensor might be bad, causing it to run rich and give you bad gas mileage.  Might make the temp gauge read low too.
424803
For all steam and gas turbine... you need a circuit breaker. But it is only the matter of designing before or after the transformer and how safe you want to the system to be
43197
Air systems, regardless of compressor design or capacity, can operate more efficiently and economically through the proper selection and optimization of the control system used with the compressor unit.Compressor control systems have long had the ability to monitor and adjust basic air compressor functions, associated with monitoring, loading, unloading and throttling. Now, some systems provide additional features such as trend analysis, predictive maintenance schedules as well as remote monitoring and operations.compressor control systems function on a demand cycle. If the demand for compressed air is steady and does not fluctuate, compressor controls simply match the capacity to the system demand. One basic form of compressor flow control is called inlet throttling, or inlet unloading. \nReducing the air flow is achieved by reducing the inlet opening through which the air enters the compressor. This, in turn, matches the compressor output to the system demand. Because system pressure acts a s a demand indicator, throttling is usually controlled by system pressure. However, most air systems are more complex and demand is more variable than the one described. \nProcesses with complicated and varying demand cycles, which can include several compressors of different sizes and configurations to maintain system pressure, require a more sophisticated control system. The most common of these systems is the electro-pneumatic control system. \nMore than 70 percent of all existing air compressors utilize electro-pneumatic control systems. These compressors feature electric and mechanically controlled devices -- such as pressure switches, solenoid valves and metering pins -- that adjust the loading and unloading through the use of an inlet throttle and/or a bypass valve. These control systems typically rely on mechanical pressure switches to monitor the compressor's proper discharge pressure. In addition, electro-pneumatic systems typically feature a series of mechanical trip switches that will discontinue compressor operation when pressures or temperatures reach critical levels.The electro-pneumatic action is a control system for pipe organs whereby air pressure, controlled by an electric current and operated by the keys of an organ console, opens and closes valves within wind chests, allowing the pipes to speak. This system also allows the console to be physically detached from the organ itself. The only connection was via an electrical cable from the console to the relay, with some early organ consoles utilizing a separate wind supply to operate combination pistons.\nAlthough early experiments with Barker lever, tubular-pneumatic and electro-pneumatic actions date as far back as the 1850s, credit for a feasible design is generally given to the English organist and inventor, Robert Hope-Jones. He overcame the difficulties inherent in earlier designs by including a rotating centrifugal air blower and replacing banks of batteries with a DC generator, which provided electrical power to the organ and drove the blower. This allowed the construction of new pipe organs without any physical linkages whatsoever. Previous organs all used tracker action, which requires a mechanical linkage between the console and the organ.\nThe basic operation of the system is as follows: when the organist selects a stop and depresses a key, an electric circuit is completed, causing a low-voltage current to flow from depressed key, through the stop-tab switch, and on through the cable to the electro-pneumatic relay. The relay interprets the command from the console and sends an electric current to the appropriate solenoid. The solenoid is energized, causing the pipe valve connected to it to open, which emits compressed air into the pipe, allowing the pipe to speak.\nThe system was an unqualified success. However, the single, most significant drawback to the system was in the massive amount of wiring required for operation. With each stop tab and key being w
593585
http://www.htmarket.com/gteecomp.html
314263
Go here:\n\nhttp://www.ofm.wa.gov/databook/energy/yt02.asp
245482
Try www.Deepburner.com :)
70720
chip, GT40 air intake, cat-back exhaust, free-flow cats, h-pipe. The easiest thing to do is change the oil to synthetic. Less friction=more power
80279
You will need to get a DMM (digital multi meter)...Walmart has these pretty cheap.  \n\n1) Before doing anything else, check the fuses again.\n\n2) Unlug your fan from the harness it is comming from.  Put the DMM on continuity (ohms) or if it has the tone option, put it there.  Now put the 2 leads together (probe to probe). Take note of what the display says.  Now put one probe on one wire comming from the plug on the fan, and do the same with the other probe on the other pin. Your display should read the same (continuity) or beep.  If it does, your fan is good.\n\n3) Now put that DMM on DC voltage (12 volt range up to 25, depending on DMM).  Again, one lead on one wire, other lead to the other wire.  Start your car, and turn on your a/c (this activates the fan circuit regardless of temperature).  If you get power, you know your relay is fine.  Now turn off your a/c and let the engine heat up to normal.  If your power does not come back, you have a temperature switch gone bad.  If it does, you have a problem with the fan (which you should have found in the last step).\n\nHope this helps!
62459
good carb  probly an 800cfm  the two screws in the front / bottem of the carb with springs. work slowly and at idial speed in 1/4 turns or 1/2 turns or one full turn.\n\nturn one screew in (tight) a 1/4 turn listen to the motor go another 1/4 turn lisen for a change do not ever rev the motor....wait be patient.... go another 1/4 never loose track of your starting point  whitch is 3/4 turn now\n\nwhen you hear a change in idial losen it a 1/4 wait some more\n\nnow do the other screew the same. I\n\nf the factory lock glue is still on the screews dont touch them\n\nand this will not save you gas