a fuse is blown in my car and i have to change it. what should i use to pull the fuse out. Just pliers or something else?
213696
pliers will work, but you may short something else out if your not carefull...i would by a fuse remover at an auto parts store, you can get on for about 2 bucks.
163383
a lathe with a quick release chuck would be the best option, especially if their are multiple items however if this isnt practicle for you then its either an external de-burring tool or a file im afraid
59102
This is a response to a 1 answer question over 30 days old.\nI am attempting to give you USEFUL infomation to help you find the answer you seek.\nI hope you will find what you are looking for.\n\nThese are the best answer links I know.\nCheck them out and if you still need help feel free\nto Email me for help, Supergwo@Yahoo.com.\n\n----------All sites are FREE!-------------\nhttp://www.autozone.com/ -   diagrams,repair info,LOOK HERE\nhttp://www.all-about-car-selection.com/index.html - VERY GOOD\nhttp://www.info.com/ -  14 search engines\nhttp://www.wisegeek.com/ -  any question\nhttp://www.ask.com/?o=312#subject:ask|pg:1 - everything\nhttp://autoparts.411web.com/ - everything automotive\nhttp://www.howstuffworks.com/ - how stuff works\nhttp://www.thefreedictionary.com/ - dictionary\nhttp://www.2carpros.com/index.htm - mechanics Q & A\nhttp://www.streetracing.org/paris/dictionary/index.htm - terms\nhttp://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-CHQL8v6H71J/ -  auto a/v\nhttp://www.partstrain.com/?id=doMecGRr - hard to find parts\nhttp://www.mapquest.com/directions/ - directions & distance\nhttp://www.carcarecouncil.org/index.shtml - basic car care\nhttp://www.diynetwork.com/diy/autos_boats - DIY resource\nhttp://www.autospeak.com/index.htm - for car enthusiasts\nhttp://www.mendmy.com/answers.php?id=13909 - fix anything\nhttp://www.theautochannel.com/ - up to date auto news\nhttp://www.motorera.com/ - old cars & definitions\nhttp://www.autopedia.com/ - automotive dictionary\nhttp://www.edmunds.com/ - automotive values \nhttp://www.tractordata.com/ - info on all types of farm tractors\nhttp://sd.craigslist.org/about/cities.html - community classifieds\nhttp://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ -  Nat'l Hyway Traffic Safety Admin.\n\nWeb search for forums in your field of interest, they are very helpful.\nFederal, State, & Local governments have websites.\nGo to my 360 site to read my blogs.
241348
Well, I don't know what your car looks like, so I don't know if I can help much, but here are a few tips I've learned from working in robotics.\n\nIf your car is working sometimes and completely dead other times, then it's probably not the batteries.  But just to be on the safe side,  get some batteries that you know are fresh, and use those.\n\nDo you have access to a multimeter?  It's generally a little hand-held device about the size of a brick with a couple of probes on it.  If you have one, you can use it to check the wires for disconnections anywhere.  Look for an icon that's sort of like this: >|  Only it will have a horizontal line going through it.  That function will test for continuity in your circuit.\n\nWith regards to mounting the motor, if the car came from a kit, it probably has instructions.  If not, it kind of depends on what kind of motor it is.  If it has screw holes, you can easily bolt it to the body of the car with a simple drill and a couple of screws.  If that's not an option, a hot glue gun will work fairly well.\n\nGood luck on your project.
364144
Take it to a shop.\nIt sounds like it's busted.\n\n///
233583
I would agree with the provious answers, low wattage soldering pencil, rosin core solder, and practice first on a throwaway piece of some electronic circuit board.  If you overheat the board it can be damaged beyond repair.  To remove the solder use solder wick, a kind of copper braid made for this purpose.  This job is probably for more experienced hands than yours.
391580
the cable that goes to the break is a 9mm loosen it off then titen it up
557137
Pull the other one...
669339
Take a (Warm) bath with Epsom salts\nDON'T USE A SOLDERING GUN!!!\nUSE Preparation H instead.\n\nGO TO The hospitals ER room or a MEDICAL CLINIC!!!
578549
Usually there is a pinhole next to the drive door. Get a paperclip and unbend it and then put it in the whole and push...the door should pop open
244806
Remove the plate, deconnect the plug from the box and pushed it into the box. Replace the cover with a solid cover plate and put epoxy over the screw head. If you need the socket, break the cover plate and remove the screws with pliers. \nNot pretty but effective.
54724
Very simple....buy the same size and model as the old one, turn off the power/gas to the old one. Disconnect the old one from water/electric lines, and take it out. re connect the new one exactly as the old one was. Turn on power/gas.....if it is gas, light the pilot. Voila! you are now a master plumber and saved yourself a bundle. You will be surprised at how easy it is.
80279
You will need to get a DMM (digital multi meter)...Walmart has these pretty cheap.  \n\n1) Before doing anything else, check the fuses again.\n\n2) Unlug your fan from the harness it is comming from.  Put the DMM on continuity (ohms) or if it has the tone option, put it there.  Now put the 2 leads together (probe to probe). Take note of what the display says.  Now put one probe on one wire comming from the plug on the fan, and do the same with the other probe on the other pin. Your display should read the same (continuity) or beep.  If it does, your fan is good.\n\n3) Now put that DMM on DC voltage (12 volt range up to 25, depending on DMM).  Again, one lead on one wire, other lead to the other wire.  Start your car, and turn on your a/c (this activates the fan circuit regardless of temperature).  If you get power, you know your relay is fine.  Now turn off your a/c and let the engine heat up to normal.  If your power does not come back, you have a temperature switch gone bad.  If it does, you have a problem with the fan (which you should have found in the last step).\n\nHope this helps!
484050
melt a tire or something and dip your peter in it... let it dry, then coat the inside with pam and rub some more melted rubber inside of it... it might burn and the rubber will be black, but i think it'll work. \n\nif i were you tho... i would just go buy one... be cheaper and easier.
155256
Happened to a couple of my cars. Take yours to a transmission shop. There's no quick fix.
59103
If the ignition is good, here is how to test the starter\n\nI had that problem on my '94 Duster, eventually traced it to a bad ground somewhere, so I spliced a wire into the ground wire and grounded it to the frame.  You need the schematic to do that, I got it in my Haynes manual. (but I had to hotwire the car for about a month before I took the time to figure out where a ground wire was to splice in a new one)\n\nTo "hotwire" it: \n1. (stick shift only) Go under the floor pedals, there is a switch that the clutch pushes in. Unplug it and put a piece of wire in the section that isn't on the clutch (to loop it to itself). This makes the ignition think the clutch is pushed so you can start it without holding the clutch.\n2. (stick shift only) Put car in neutral and set the parking brake.\n3. Turn the key on; this way you can start the car and it will stay running.\n4. Hook a jumper cable onto the + side of the battery. Go underneath the car near the starter, and touch the cable to the terminal on the starter (you may need to look up which one is the terminal for +, I can't remember offhand.)  The starter should turn over and start the car, if not, then either the starter or the solenoid is bad.\n\nWhat this does is bypass all of the electrical and wiring on the car and go straight from the battery to the starter so you can determine if the starter is bad without having to test everything else in between.
474796
If the 20A fuse is the size that is designed for the machine, then something is wrong with the machine.\n\nMost likely, either accumulated dirt, or worn out parts, or both, are causing the load on the motor to be much higher than designed. If you continue to operate the compressor in this way you will burn out the motor. I looked a little bit for on-line info about the compressor you mentioned but could not find it. If it is old, and replacement parts are not available, you may need to replace the compressor.\n\nOne possible transient cause could be a much lower than normal supply voltage - a brownout. If this is happening, the motor will draw more current and possibly blow the fuse. If this is the problem, the solution is to correct the power supply (if it is under your control) or to wait until it is normal again (if it is a utility supply).