my adaptor is a toshiba T3 410 PME, an old laptop.\nwhich new adaptor should i choose, higher voltage-higher ampere, or lower voltage-lower ampere? \nwill it harm my computer in the long run?\nthx alot
212736
you need to find one that gives u enough of the voltage and ampage, as most of the universal ones, do set them selfs to what your laptop needs, and are generally cheaper than the manufactures ones (you just need to know if your laptop falls in the range of what it can supply.\n\n\nif you want manufacture adaptors you could look here for toshiba adaptors http://www.portables.co.uk/acatalog/Toshiba_ac_adapters.html
561189
you'll need an adapter...different types of electricity
15852
The plug may or not fit as they are usually differebt from mfg to mfg. If it does fit, make sure the voltage info is the same for both units before plugging it in as it may damage the unit.
273597
I think you meant WATTS versus volts. You will need to inspect your power supply for that information.\n You need to check out he following website, for more info on what you will truly need 250W sounds a bit low by today's standards - http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
555338
Hi,\n\nIf your power pack states that it'll take voltages from 110 to 240 then all you need to do is plug it in.\n\nI live and work in Ireland and am in the US this week on work and simply have plugged in it. You will of course need a plug adapter, however that's it. The power pack will accept any incoming voltage from 100-240 and step it down to the required voltage needed for the laptop, 19.5V I believe.\n\nHTH
36677
all I could find\n\nA Toshiba M35X-S309 came in for repair this week with a power jack problem. The power jack was actually broken off of the motherboard. This is increasingly common with Toshiba notebooks. We are currently repairing around 5 - 10 Toshiba notebooks per week with this problem.\n\nThe M35X models are decent laptops with a nice look. The S309 model is a Pentium M (with Centrino).\n\nSometimes the power jack (DC Jack) is broken off when the laptop takes a little fall while the power cord is still plugged in. More often the customer has no idea why the jack broke off.\n\nThe best thing to do when the power jack breaks is to shut the laptop down and have it serviced before using it again. 99% of the time we can replace it here. Unfortunately, a lot of companies prefer to sell the customer a new motherboard, and on these models, that is a very expensive repair.
105546
You don't need much current at the input of an op amp, and 100 ohms with, say, 10 V (typical power supply V) across it dissipates a whole watt, so you don't want that low an R in a feedback loop or an input divider (power waste and heat being undesirable).  Also if you are using R-C circuits, a lower R means a larger C for given frequency response.  Too high an R though (in the megs) and you run the risk of picking up hum due to electrostatic coupling, and also loss of accurate gain due to leakage current.  So you'll see maybe 10K - 100K as a desirable range.
552949
It's obviously not electrostatic, if its resistance is that low (electrostatic drivers show infinite resistance across the terminals).  The fact that you read 32 and 64 ohms is very suggestive.  I assume this is what you got:\n\no<---32 ohms--->o<---32 ohms--->o\n|<----------------64 ohms--------------->|\n\nIt looks like it was intended to be driven by the push-pull output of a transistor amplifier.  OK, for a single-ended amp, just try either the 64 ohm, or one of the 32 ohm conections.  Whichever is louder represents the best impedence match.
371152
Go get a new 450+W PSU. This way, there are no worries. A calculator is linked below.
645679
First look at the adaptor and get the output rating of the adaptor. It will also show a pictogram of the adaptor plug this shows what part is negative and positive at the laptop end). Look for a new adaptor that has the same rating (or extremely close) and the same pictogram of the plug.\n\nThe ones for the laptop may be quite expensive.\n\nAlso get the battery looked at, it may be faulty.
516281
1. no a 7 amps charger cannot harm u'r notebook, neither can a 700 amps charger, provided the voltage rating is correct & it's a smps\n2. i will never recommend a charger from a different supplier than notebook manufacturer, reason being a. the battery charging circuit is a bit tricky, an auto cut-off switch mechanism for supervision / regulation charge: boost / trickle / off states b. the mating pin connecting notebook can make a loose connection, causing localised heating / sparking\n> if at all u buy different, only supplier i know of is targus\nhttp://www.targus.com/us/powerstore.asp\nfill in relevant details & after a few steps, offer comes up
537973
ya it should be fine... the only thing is that it will then draw ts power from ur laptop runnin the batt down quicker
639733
No, laptop AC adaptors are all different, not only by company, but also often by laptop model.  You're going to have to spend the $40.
186917
chrisew333 is right. You could also check to make sure you have the right power supply.  Laptop power supplies vary greatly.  You can't use just any one that fits.  One that's not strong enough may cause the laptop to do wierd things like that.
461087
It is in the design of the motor, number of windings, placement and orientation of magnets, etc that sets its voltage.  If you plugged in your 240 motor to 110 in the US it will turn much more slowly, draw a lot more current and burn up quite quickly.  \n\nIf it is a small motor you could get a step-up, or step-down (depends on which way you are going) transformer.  These transformers get pretty large for any device that pulls much current.\n\nA problem you cannot overcome is the 60Hz of the US vs the 50Hz of the UK, so even if the voltage is corrected you still have the incorrect frequency which will make things like tape recorders and VCRs work improperly.  \n\nBest bet is to buy a device that is designed to work everywhere or one specific to the country where you are going to use it.\n\nMike
321959
Hehe, the utility company inspector will be pretty mad at you the next time he comes around.  I assume from your description that a 220->9V transformer is installed before the meter, but then a 9->220V transformer is placed after the meter to get the voltage back up to normal for your home.  Is this right?\n\nThe step-down transformer will not slow down your meter (there is no free lunch in power consumption).  What will happen is that at the 9V side of the transformer, you will have about 24.5 times the amount of current under the normal setup.\n\nMost meters have coils that sense the voltage and current and mechanically sum up the power.  So, you would be dropping the voltage but raising the current in the same proportion (the power readings will be close to the same as if you left things alone).\n\nPractically, the meter might be damaged since it was probably not designed to handle the higher current and lower voltage.  Also if the transformers you install are not rated correctly, bad things will happen.  The transformers you will need will likely cost a whole lot.  Finally, your meter might actually speed up a little since the transformer after the meter will certainly have some power losses associated with it.\n\nTo sum it up: not a good idea.
168442
hi there\n\nevery adapter supplied with laptop has some range for controlling fluctuating volatage and its written on the adapter it self. but when the range is too much upside down it slowly start burning the battery element copper or aluminum wire and it is screwed up when it is burnt completely. in some countries like india people where this is a major problem they use ups (uninterripuble power supply).ithink u can buy good ups from APC and it will take care ofuar laptop