I need to know how to make a black powder solvent/cleaner that really really works to clean a traditional black powder rifle that doesn't like to fire beacause of the breach plug not getting thoroughly cleaned( this Gun Is Not An Inline so you can't take the breach plug out)
218146
I've always just used lots of hot soapy water (dawn dishwashing liquid). Of course, you have to get it really dry afterwards. I also drilled out my nipple to 1/16th inch. and I always use a pipe cleaner to clean out the tunnel from the nipple to the inside firing chamber. I'm not sure what you would need to do if you had a flintlock. I've never had one of those. Mine is a T/C .50 cal Hawkins. I've never had a misfire with it.
124596
Oh, you were using the Moisture Lock solution? That's sucks! I used to love Bausch and Lomb but recently moved to the Equate (Walmart) brand of contact cleaner. (The multi-purpose solution) It works great and is much, MUCH cheaper that the others. They even have a no rub type that is nice. Walmart makes their knock-offs to be like the originals so they have the same ingredients. You should check it out... :D
443371
Bound's hubby here:\n\nThis is from over 30 years experience... DON'T put any type of chemical on your rifle's metal... you do not know how the chemical will react with the finish or the metal. \n\nThe time proven method of removing light rust from gun metal is to use OOO steel wool with gun oil. Put a light coat of oil on the rusted metal part and lightly rub the steel wool over the affected oiled area. Be patient, do not apply a lot of pressure. In about 10-15 minutes the rust will be removed and if the metal is blued there might be a slight lightening of the blued finish. Generally, lightening of the finish would mean either you rubbed too hard or you did not have enough oil on the metal. You can use the steel wool and oil method successfully without affecting your gun's finish. \n\nGood luck.
32810
"By weight measure, black powder is made of seventy-five parts saltpeter finely ground, fifteen parts charcoal, and ten parts sulfur. All ingredients must be fine ground separately. This can be accomplished with either a mortar and pestle, or with a hand-cranked flour mill. Never mix all three ingredients before grinding unless you want to turn your mill into a deadly grenade, or your mortar into a cannon that can blow off your fingers or even your hand."\n\nDont forget that gunpowder is a low-explosive. it will not explode in the open atmosphere, but will explode under compretion. In other words, dont keep it in an airtight container.\nBE CAREFULL!!! Remember, flamible things tend  to burn!;-)
132970
Get a can of stripeze....careful when using tho...highly flammable. follow instructions and do it outdoors. DONT bead or sand blast them! If you do you will never get the polished look back! Rinse them good. Get some simichrome polish or other type of polishing compound. Be ready to use some elbow grease...you might want to buy a buffing disk for your electric drill.
478652
The samples must be homogenously ground to enable the solvent to fully soak into the sample and extract the compound you want in question. Also there is a question of statical averages so a uniformed powder sample is the best for this process. If the sample is lumply or too big the solvent can't fully soak into it and wherefor not all of your compound in question is extracted by the process (Then the solvent fills up the soxhlet thumbie (sp)). If this happens you will get a incorrect value then you come to do the maths in determinating the amoult of the coumpound in question.
674127
Black powder in cake form burns relatively slowly- to get black powder to explode it needs to be contained in something such as a gun barrel or shell casing. In a rocket, the combustion gases are not contained and force themselves out of the rear of the casing and hence propel the tocket forward. \nThe black powder mixture in the rocket is also a compressed mass, so it effectively burns down like a fuse or a stick burning from one end through the mass. In a shell, the black powder is still in powder or granule form and therefore flashes or burns quicker, like small pieces of coal versus big lumps of coal.\n\nBe VERY careful if you're playing with any explosives- I worked with a fellow teacher who only had a thumb on one hand- he'd blown off the other fingers in a home-made fireworks accident when it went off while he was packing it as a young experimenter.
511790
use a rolling pin to squeez the stuff out...and there is a gadget on the market that looks like 2 fingers, you slip the bottom of the tube between the 2 fingers and just turn up so that the tube rolls around and over the fingers and the paste doesn't backflow..got he idea?..but you can always by toothpast in a pump
427364
Bound's hubby here:\n\nFirst, before you do anything ... is the rifle loaded?\n\nSecond, it sounds as though the bolt body may be bent or damaged from a previous round fired (perhaps an improperly handloaded round?), and the bolt started to collapse. This is not a receiver problem! A gunsmith should not have to "re-mill" the receiver. And, don't use WD-40 ... I have had bad luck with it and guns.\n\nYour wisest move is to first call Browning and talk with them ... they will suggest that you send the rifle to them for inspection and repair. Take the rifle and its packaging to your local gunsmith for shipment back to Browning ... you can no longer do this yourself! \n\nAs an aside ... I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 ... and they replaced the bolt ... plain and simple. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer!
18933
1. Inspect the barrel to insure it is clean and empty.  If recently fired, wait several minutes before firing again.  It is best to “swab” the bore with a damp sponge.  You want to be 100% certain no live ambers are in the barrel before loading it again. \n   2. Insert a 6-inch piece of fuse all the way into the vent hole and bend it at the top so it is perpendicular to the hole (at least 4 inches of fuse should be exposed) .  This insures that a spark doesn’t pre-ignite the powder in the barrel. \n   3. Determine the correct amount of black powder to use based on the bore diameter of your cannon (chart below).  You can always use less!  A small amount of black powder (thimble full) produces a boom!  Use only fg or ffg black powder.\n   4. Pour the powder into the barrel, or if using the foil pouch method, making sure the powder is all the way back in the bore.  A wooden ramrod works well.  It is not necessary to “pack” the powder.  Keeping it confined is the objective.\n   5. Wading is not necessary for blank loads, if desired, a small amount of waded, dry paper can be used.  Make a ball and push it all the way back against the powder charge.\n   6. Never “double load” a barrel.   Use only 1 powder charge, 1 piece of wading.\n   7. Check around the cannon area making certain it is clear.  Announce that the cannon is to be fired.\n   8. Light the fuse and retreat.  A 6 inch standard fuse gives you about 10 seconds to get away.
551380
This will be simple for You. Break the Gun Down. Make sure You put each set of Parts in a Different area so You wont get them Mixed up. Once you have the Firing Mechanism out put the New Pin inside the spring. Clean and oil the parts with WD-40 and use this sparingly. You only want a thin coat of oil on the Workings. assemble and oil the outside of the Rifle. I'm home on weekends and will walk You through this as Need Be. I own one Myself.
522827
If the weapon is new, it could be quality of the ammo.  Also, if you are using older ammo, this can cause jams.  I am assuming you are cleaning the weapon thoroughly?  Sometimes it is necessary to take a weapon apart and clean every mechanism and then put it back together.  Use high quality ammo.  Ask your ammo dealer what he recommends.
453041
spend the money and buy a Benelli Super Black Eagle II it will give you a lot of versitility i.e. 2 3/4",3" or 3 1/2" shells and it will give you years of reliable service without a ton of time cleaning it. i have several Winchester pump guns and i leave them all at home in favor of my Benelli. (no comparison), you get what you pay for.
553695
Barnett makes some pretty good ones.\nI own one and the nice thing is that it is SILENT but DEADLY, just like a good fart...\nAnd you can reuse the ammo without a hassle...
199969
Before you trade your gun, try using loc-tite on the threads of your mounting screws,I'm assuming your talking about a standard "Weaver" mount set up. Position your scope where you want it for shooting, tighten the front mount screw, back out the rear and put some thread lock on it, tighten it as much as you can, then do the same with the front screw. This is how we mount all out scopes on our sniper rifles, if you have a different set up, feel free to e-mail me
312852
Oh man, I have an awesome gun cleaner. It can take alot out of you, you'd probably work up a sweat using it. But I guarantee it will clean your gun out, it'll be shining.
276982
I don't know that you can, different solvents react differently to pressure, so I don't think it's a one eqaution fits all kind of process.  That's why they all have different graphs for phase vs temperature/pressure.  I'm sorry.\nSounds like you have a pretty high boiling point though, the things I've taken off that had to be real high temp were water, toluene, and pyridine.  Could it be one of them?  They smell pretty different, so you'd know which.  \nThat's an interesting question though, I've never stripped a solvent that I didn't know what it was.