Once installed what happens when you unclip to change the sheets- does the elastic snap back making the clip unreachable?
1407259
They snap back to there original length. I use them on a hospital bed & hospital bed sheets. I have two different lengths of suspenders, the long ones I use lengthwise, the shorter ones I use on the corners. I like them, they keep my sheet in position.
1407260
No, It is still reachable. The weight of the mattress holds it in place. The snaps on this style suspender are much easier to operate than the "garter style"found on some suspenders.
2026765
As an FYI: To answer this question, I unplugged my own light, unclipped it from my piano, and then re-clipped it on my own monitor! My monitor is rather large (and a "flat screen" so it's not too wide, coming in around 1/2" or so), so it has a 2/3" frame around the screen, and I was able to clip it on to the edge without it touching the screen. My monitor has a sturdy base, so it was not "shaky", however, you would need to be sure your own monitor had both: 1) A large enough frame around the screen for the product to attach to, and 2) the monitor should have a sturdy enough base to hold the weight of the light! So the answer is yes, if you can answer yes to both of these requirements! Good luck (and I hope I helped)! As an FYI: To answer this question, I unplugged my own light, unclipped it from my piano, and then re-clipped it on my own monitor! My monitor is rather large (and a "flat screen" so it's not too wide, coming in around 1/2" or so), so it has a 2/3" frame around the screen, and I was able to clip it on to the edge without it touching the screen. My monitor has a sturdy base, so it was not "shaky", however, you would need to be sure your own monitor had both: 1) A large enough frame around the screen for the product to attach to, and 2) the monitor should have a... » Read More As an FYI: To answer this question, I unplugged my own light, unclipped it from my piano, and then re-clipped it on my own monitor! My monitor is rather large (and a "flat screen" so it's not too wide, coming in around 1/2" or so), so it has a 2/3" frame around the screen, and I was able to clip it on to the edge without it touching the screen. My monitor has a sturdy base, so it was not "shaky", however, you would need to be sure your own monitor had both: 1) A large enough frame around the screen for the product to attach to, and 2) the monitor should have a sturdy enough base to hold the weight of the light! So the answer is yes, if you can answer yes to both of these requirements! Good luck (and I hope I helped)! « Show Less
976566
The two silver clips holding the black cover are hard to remove. Just pull them off but you may need a tool (something like a pliers to pull). Pull gently, they do come off.
721356
Hi, mine would do the same but i have thicker wood. I would suggest adding a spall sqaure piece of wood on the bottom between the desk and the clip, should keep it firmly gripped.
695595
Its kinda weird where it unscrews the other way, sometimes it helps to screw it into the clip first then undo it
666474
If mine broke, I would just use a binder clip from the office. Or, call the manufacturer in Utah!
1290566
There's two tension clips that I mounted to the underside of my workbench that the power strip clicked into. Be warned, if you accidentally pull too hard on a cord plugged into the strip, it will pull it out of the clips.
1212563
Hi, I have never had a problem with mine, but on each end there may be a clip that if you put your fingernail under the far end and pull out it will release.Other than that, Other than that, I can only suggest that there is a strong détente that can be overcome by pulling on it with a little more force. It may be that you will have to remove it and inspect the slides and make sure that they are truly free and work back and forth. I think it is possible that if there was a little misalignment when it was installed that it might be hard to slide the drawer back and forth. It may be necessary to fill and redrill a hole or two to correct alignment. Hope this helps you, Kathy. Peace. Roger Hi, I have never had a problem with mine, but on each end there may be a clip that if you put your fingernail under the far end and pull out it will release.Other than that, Other than that, I can only suggest that there is a strong détente that can be overcome by pulling on it with a little more force. It may be that you will have to remove it and inspect the slides and make sure that they are truly free and work back and forth. I think it is possible that if there was a little misalignment when it was installed that it might be hard to slide the drawer back and forth. It may be... » Read More Hi, I have never had a problem with mine, but on each end there may be a clip that if you put your fingernail under the far end and pull out it will release.Other than that, Other than that, I can only suggest that there is a strong détente that can be overcome by pulling on it with a little more force. It may be that you will have to remove it and inspect the slides and make sure that they are truly free and work back and forth. I think it is possible that if there was a little misalignment when it was installed that it might be hard to slide the drawer back and forth. It may be necessary to fill and redrill a hole or two to correct alignment. Hope this helps you, Kathy. Peace. Roger « Show Less
2172705
Not that I recall. I put the included tool somewhere in my tool collection. You won't need it again. The clip is an essential part in my opinion so you most likely won't ever be taking it off again.
164686
Ours works fine. We have the soft close unit seperate from the hinge. You just pop the clips into the hinge, it takes 2 seconds and they work great!
300649
I was able to un-jam mine, but kept the new one I bought. There isn't one of the "typical" allen wrench "unjamming" features. However, as I recall I pulled it out and by putting my hand in and trying to rotate the "innards" was able to find the offending piece of metal wedged along the outer circumference and get it out. Then it was fine - and I reinstalled it. Try that first before ordering new. These are smaller than typical units - in my case the sink is smaller so this unit takes up less cabinet space underneath. If you have to replace it, I'd suggest getting the same unit and not getting one of the larger units you find at Home Depot etc. Hope that helped! I was able to un-jam mine, but kept the new one I bought. There isn't one of the "typical" allen wrench "unjamming" features. However, as I recall I pulled it out and by putting my hand in and trying to rotate the "innards" was able to find the offending piece of metal wedged along the outer circumference and get it out. Then it was fine - and I reinstalled it. Try that first before ordering new. These are smaller than typical units - in my case the sink is smaller so this unit takes up less cabinet space underneath. If you have to replace it, I'd suggest... » Read More I was able to un-jam mine, but kept the new one I bought. There isn't one of the "typical" allen wrench "unjamming" features. However, as I recall I pulled it out and by putting my hand in and trying to rotate the "innards" was able to find the offending piece of metal wedged along the outer circumference and get it out. Then it was fine - and I reinstalled it. Try that first before ordering new. These are smaller than typical units - in my case the sink is smaller so this unit takes up less cabinet space underneath. If you have to replace it, I'd suggest getting the same unit and not getting one of the larger units you find at Home Depot etc. Hope that helped! « Show Less
411627
I've disassembled several times and reassembled w no problems. Remove spring loader for staples. Remove all screws - chrome one last. Watch for a short dowel that fits in a slot in the "works" and slides in parallel ridges - that are molded in each half of the body. It's the only part that's not an obvious fit. Of course I had to remove a couple of jammed staples. Take a phone photo of the internals asap after separating the halves. That helps. If everything's in place - including the dowel that acts as the pivot point for the spring unit - the top half fits with use a little jiggle. Put in shiny screw first but not tight. Then the black screws - tightening as u go. Tighten shiny last. Takes 20 mins the "2nd" time u do it. And of course patience
365567
Actually it's pretty easy. All you have to do is unscrew either the tip, or the part that's above the clip. I recommend just unscrewing the tip because it's easier.
91215
They have a video showing how to do it here: http://www.locklaces.com/blog/learning-center/how-to-reopen-and-reinstall-the-cord-clip/If it doesn't seem to come out right away, you might be prying from the wrong side. Try the other opening. When I did it popped right open.
339687
No, I cut a hole in the sheet model in back of the desk. This allowed the clamp to work.
303322
Grab handle and strech to one side and unhook the handle clasp. Once 1 side is free the handle comes off. To put on again clip on one side then stretch handle to the opposite side, handle should clip on.
1283954
I have to agree with Jesus, after trying to finagle the clip loose with picks, screwdrivers, channel locks, I finally went to Harbor Freight Tools and bought a set of 22" screwdrivers. Get the bracket out of the way and unplug the electrical connection and slip the tip of the screwdriver to release the clip. The screwdriver will be parallel to the bed frame and the long length gives you the leverage needed to release the clip. Twist the EVAP Valve and holding the hose, they'll soon part ways. Time for a cocktail!