I used the Gray Epoxyshield as a base but some of the flakes are loose. Should I be concerned applying the clear coat over loose flakes?
1430672
No. The loose flakes blend right in. I actually added more flakes to the clear.
1430673
The flake is just dried epoxy, so I would not worry about it. If anything it will give better traction.
1360806
I used it last week on some fuel lines it seems like the silver will come to flake off a little bit. overall it was very flexible for what I was using it for. taken the contours nicely but it's basically A fiberglass than silver coating
1078736
I would use latex. The epoxy will stick better and the finished product will be just as glossy.
118856
Yes it is, Bry but i'm going to use it on a stock i will design and build. I suggest sanding the paint from all prods, and checking for cracks and air chambers near the glass reinforced plastic (fiberglass). A breaking prod could do permanent damage. I have found imperfections under paint. V these out for more glueing surface area. I recommend West System G-flex epoxy only, for such extreme requirements.
1133209
i would recommend you too use a gel top coat for this product. that way, it wont move or mess up your design.
460137
And, i would folliw the direction to the "t" by sanding the first coat then applying the second coat which will protect it indefinitely. For a nice finish apply twice after your first application! ! :)
1541898
Yes, this is the stuff you want to use. I used it on my garage and put it over my rustoleum epoxy shield gray color. I did it almost a year ago and it looks just as shiny as the day I did it. Make sure to use the grit (aluminum oxide) it comes with to mix into the clear coat in the bucket or the floor will be extremely slippery if ever gets even slightly wet. You have to do it within 30 hours (I think) of laying down the primary color or you have to scuff the entire floor for it adhere properly. The instructions will clearly state this. This stuff is extremely durable. I have rolled heavy floor jacks over it and put jack stands on it and it doesn't even get scratched. Any liquids (even harsh ones) just wipe up with a per towel. If you use one can go very heavy on the application or buy two and do two coats over two days. I did one garage with one heavy coat and one garage with two medium coats and the two coats look better than the heavy coat but it also took two cans. You have to have someone with a strong flashlight (wife?) following you and shining it at a very low angle to make sure you overlap edges and don't miss anything.
200037
We used a box cutter with the same results. It is the way the foam was compressed that causes it to flake slightly when cut. You might find a white tape that can be adhered to the edge for a smoother look.
893173
I've done two garages with the Rust-Oleum epoxy floor paint. On the first, I did not use any clear coat. On the second, I top coated with clear coat. The clear coat finish looks better, cleans better, and to me is worth the additional cost. I echo another commentator's advice: hold back a small amount of the clear coat components so that when you are done, you can cover any missed areas. If you find that you did a perfect job, then the held back clear coat can applied where the floor gets the most wear. It is a win-win either way.
369441
I used a permanent spray-on adhesive, not a temporary one. It still comes a little loose in places at times, and I have to respray, but overall works quite well.
1660677
I do not know about that surface, it sounds like it is not smooth. The material used does not have a sticky backing...it is static cling. Mine was applied to a painted surfaces.
925802
Not sure what you are experiencing. I had no such problem but used it indoors last fall. If it is cool, it is likely to take longer to cure. Humidity in the air is also a factor and certainly if the concrete has water content from washing, the cure could be prolonged. Likewise, wrong ratio of resin and the hardener could do the same. And stirring it thoroughly is necessary. My advise would be to let it sit until it is NOT tacky. If that never happens, I would add very thin coat of sand and brush it lightly. eventually, it will harden up.
936807
I am not sure, but I have a feeling it will be ok. I am not a fan of instamorph though, I can tell you that. I usually use 2 part epoxy like green stuff in it, and that works great and paints great as well.
546781
Good question NO it is a clean silicone product I use it and re apply it after I was it .. I would say it is like a silicone base that doesn't attract dirt. Otherwise it would scratch or smear on the fiberglass. And it does not . You should use this spray on for the slide seals. Door seals .. Don't use armor all.
257669
I used the product in my garage after applying an epoxy finish. I can not remember if I mixed it with polyurethane or epoxy for the top coat. In any case, I was a little suprised, the product worked very well. This was about 3 years ago and the top coat has held up very well. It does add some grip to the floor but I am not sure how it does.
401103
I used it on a child's riding toy. Has withstood the rigors of that. Just make sure each coat is light and allowed to completely dry. I did not use a primer.
1564093
You really shouldn't have any streaks with the final coat, Bob. Why not call their help line and see what they recommend? Otherwise, try waiting several days until the final resin completely sets up. Lightly sand with some very fine sand paper and then lay down a topcoat of quality polyurethane. I have no idea about the chemistry of the resin and the polyurethane, but it might be less expensive than ordering more of the resin from Rust-Oleum.