What is the actual no-load current draw? Specs say &lt;0.5 amps. I will buy if true, just seems very low for a unit this big. TIA
414935
Yep...that is correct. It really doesn't draw any current under no-load. There are no noises, nothing...just the red LED lights for voltage or watts. I have used several different inverters and this one is my absolute favorite...it is a beast and built extremely well. No worries...it is a safe buy. Have had mine running continuously for about 7 months now.
1356810
My system shut off after a couple months of being installed as well (240v). I removed canister and electrodes appeared to have a lot of buildup, so I made a little brass brush on a handle that I could get inside and clean the elements. after doing this several times and rinsing (water came out rust colour), I replaced and it is working fine. Will wait and see how long this one lasts. I clamped it and was only pulling about 2-3 amps initially, but after a couple days it is now up to 10-11 amps per leg.
1637042
I am not sure what you are trying to determine. I don't have the test equipment to measure the small amount of power that this consumes. I did plug it into my Kill-A-Watt power monitor. The power consumed after 90 minutes still registered as zero. The instantaneous current and power were also zero. The device reads out to 2 decimal places so the power and current must me less than .00 amps and .00 watts. It is a very low power consuming device, exactly how low I am not sure. It is obviously not zero, just very low.
833951
This unit has about a 1620 watt draw. I have a 5000 one and it works great matatically it shout work when running. The problem u may run into is the start up wattage. Many a/c unit can go about 4 times higher to start up the unit which would be around 6400 watts. My inverter has a 10k start up and it fires it up. I would guess u will have less than a 50-50 shot the generator will fire it up. If is can then your generator will give it the power it needs
902532
Hi Mr. Hogan,I installed a Kill-A-Watt from Radio Shack tonight. While using an internal Seagate 500GB hard drive the meter shows usage is 5 Watts and .07 amp draw. The figures are different from one electric provider to the next. As an example, my local electric company charges me 12 cents per kWh during peak season and 11 cents during off peak season. It's costing me $5.26 per/year running 24/7/365.It's been running flawlessly since December 25, 2012. Yes, over a year and I share family pictures to lots of family members. Very easy to use.I hope this helps.Thanks,Terry Mundy Hi Mr. Hogan,I installed a Kill-A-Watt from Radio Shack tonight. While using an internal Seagate 500GB hard drive the meter shows usage is 5 Watts and .07 amp draw. The figures are different from one electric provider to the next. As an example, my local electric company charges me 12 cents per kWh during peak season and 11 cents during off peak season. It's costing me $5.26 per/year running 24/7/365.It's been running flawlessly since December 25, 2012. Yes, over a year and I share family pictures to lots of family members. Very easy to use.I hope this... » Read More Hi Mr. Hogan,I installed a Kill-A-Watt from Radio Shack tonight. While using an internal Seagate 500GB hard drive the meter shows usage is 5 Watts and .07 amp draw. The figures are different from one electric provider to the next. As an example, my local electric company charges me 12 cents per kWh during peak season and 11 cents during off peak season. It's costing me $5.26 per/year running 24/7/365.It's been running flawlessly since December 25, 2012. Yes, over a year and I share family pictures to lots of family members. Very easy to use.I hope this helps.Thanks,Terry Mundy « Show Less
111919
This is an INVERTER type AC. There is No Startup Current. It starts at the lowest speed and catches up to meet the needed load. You do not need to worry about start up issues with this unit.
1638578
On mine with 450watts it is showing about 22% usage, if linear them 1200 should show about @66%. I don't know if linear, personally I'd opt for a larger unit.
647241
You have to have your "load" connected first, otherwise the amps will remain at zero. By load I mean whatever it is you're trying to power. First connect your load, then turn the voltage all the way up, turn the amps all the way down, and turn on the power switch. Then slowly turn up the amps, then slowly turn down the volts to desired volt settings. Again, you have to have connected whatever it is you're trying to power to power first. I know, it doesn't make sense, but that's how it works. It threw me for a loop when I first got mine too.
1123874
It draws no more than about 4A of AC. Part of the reason that it is lower than a conventional charger is due to the switch-mode charger technology, and also very much lighter in weight! In fact their 40A charger only pulls about 9.5A of AC, which any modern outlet should be able to handle. I've measured it with a P3 International Kill-A-Watt meter and it is pretty close. One can also cheat by looking at the specifications in the manual at the end. -grin-
1003374
Very low. I believe it was less than 1.0 amp. Like 0.6 when I did the math but on the safe side it was 1.6 at the very most. My memory is failing me at the moment but im pretty sure it was less than 1.0 amp. Hope this helps
744326
not sure why 2.4 amps is getting discussed..it says right on the package "under half an amp draw" and my meter says it takes about 0.3 far reach from 2.4
1310570
It's rated at 2 Amps but only consumes 150 Watts of power so tha actual steady state draw is probably more like 1.25 Amps.
1661757
No problem it pulls six amps when it is cooling at max and 1.8 5 after temperature is reached hope this helps have a great day mark
895006
Just as a car can't go from 0-60mph in a few seconds without a huge engine, anything with an electric motor has a "surge draw" to start the motor accelerating it up to speed in a couple seconds (including fridges, pumps, etc). That surge demands 3-4 times the normal power. I've tried plugging in a small AC fridge (that measures ~18 inches in all 3 dims with only 1 amp AC draw normally or 120 watts) into an inverter. It was a 400 watt inverter with 800 watt surge rating, yet it would go into the overload alarm instantly not even starting. I'd expect any pump to need more power than that and this units inverter according to the manual says "450 watt continuous, 600 watt for under 5 minutes and 900 watts max surge". So based on my trying a similar inverter on a small motor, I'd bet under a 5% chance this would work for you. I've even been reluctant to try running a typical fridge off of a 1200 watt generator because of that surge demand. Also, if going off of just this units battery which is under 30amp/hour, if you could run something like that it's battery will be drained in 20 minutes. So this is a real short term power source for such loads and won't keep your place from flooding all night or such.
1907381
I ran an AC unit off this that was rated at 6.3 amps (+ surge) and it got slightly warm but not a concern........if you can afford it, i would get the next one up from this unit......however, this may work, but the hotter it gets the less life it may have/ possible fire hazzard
1241308
On my application, system voltage at 14.0, start up on low speed draws 1.3 amps with a 1.0 amp running current draw, wattage would be 14 running. Start up on high speed draws 2.5 amps with a running current of 1.9 amps, wattage would be 26.6 running. (Wattage equals volts times amps) Hope this helps, Donovan
1472545
Well, that load is within spec. I have not run mine this hard, but at this price it seems worth a try.I have had excellent performance thus far at 48V, probably 2-3 A.