I just bought one but the blade doesn't seem to be cutting 8mm with foam very cleanly. Do I need to sharpen the blade or am I missing something?
1413527
My laminate was about 8 mm including the foam, so probably more like 6.5 mm only. It cut the boards just fine. That being said, remember that this is somewhat of a brute-force replacement tool for a table saw. For visually exposed precision cuts, such as threads on a staircase, I used fine carbide-tip table saw blades. All other cuts the laminate cutter was perfectly adequate for - yes, there's very minor chipping of the laminate layer (up to about 1-2 mm from the cut line) but nothing that won't get covered up by baseboards later, anyway.
1413528
You will get the best cut with the laminate side up, not the foam side. The cut should be clean. Once you set the blade against the laminate, push the handle down quickly so it "snaps" the laminate. Be sure to set the blade against the wood before snapping it down. The blade shouldn't have to be sharpened and if my suggestions don't work, then I think your cutter could be defective.
494583
Just use some distilled water and a spray bottle. Thats what I did and it worked like a champ. Then just wet it liberally and make sure you use a sharp blade.
684678
You might need to do more sharpening . The point is actually pretty good . I wanted my blade quite a bit sharper so I spent some time putting a better edge on it . I've been very pleased with them . Very good weight and ballance . Hope this helps.
243096
Yes. I found the detail to be excellent for foam. The only thing that I noticed that seemed wrong was that mine had one side with the gold detail in the center of the hilt and the other side did not. All of the detail on the blade, such as the triforce, was great.
1008295
I don't recommend cutting foam core with this product. Since you have to clamp down the stack to cut, and the blade cuts vertically, you will most likely cause the edges of your foam core to dent and wrinkle. I recommend a rolling or slide trimmer to cut foam core.
1452689
Mine cuts square (miters not so great) but not very clean. You would probably need to invest in a better blade unless you are willing to do a bit of planning and/or sanding.
249337
No. The blade is exposed only about 1/8". It cuts a great circle on the foam board, just not all the way through.
1775569
shaved ice. and make sure the cutting blade is tight before you use it? it seems like that is a problem with them. after you do that it works fine. thank yiu
1716744
Okay, I did a test on some foam board. It doesn't work very well at all, it still cuts, but starts the paper on fire and is real slow process..and will most likely deform your blade. With plain foam, it cuts just unbelievably well. So, in my opinion, not good on foam board. Use a sharp razor blade.
246242
You can. However anything thicker like foam core is not possible. It really is a matter of wanting to manipulate what is being cut, and with this type of blade, it is not possible.
1985578
The foam is very dense and should cut easily with something very sharp. Perhaps an electric knife to avoid raggedy edges.
1570872
Danny,I assume that you have a stone to sharpen it during use. If that doesn't do the trick here is my plan. I'll be facing this problem myself on my next siding/flooring job. I plan on buying a replacement blade for 44.95 and then take the used blade to a sharpening facility. If they can't sharpen the blade once they see it, they might suggest someone else or try sharpening it myself. Again maybe 44.95 is the easiest and might be the cheapest answer. If you plan on doing the sharpening yourself I for sure recommend a replacement blade just in case (for backup). Sorry I can't be more definitive but I hope this helps.Regards,John Livingston Danny,I assume that you have a stone to sharpen it during use. If that doesn't do the trick here is my plan. I'll be facing this problem myself on my next siding/flooring job. I plan on buying a replacement blade for 44.95 and then take the used blade to a sharpening facility. If they can't sharpen the blade once they see it, they might suggest someone else or try sharpening it myself. Again maybe 44.95 is the easiest and might be the cheapest answer. If you plan on doing the sharpening yourself I for sure recommend a replacement blade just in case (for backup). Sorry I can't be... » Read More Danny,I assume that you have a stone to sharpen it during use. If that doesn't do the trick here is my plan. I'll be facing this problem myself on my next siding/flooring job. I plan on buying a replacement blade for 44.95 and then take the used blade to a sharpening facility. If they can't sharpen the blade once they see it, they might suggest someone else or try sharpening it myself. Again maybe 44.95 is the easiest and might be the cheapest answer. If you plan on doing the sharpening yourself I for sure recommend a replacement blade just in case (for backup). Sorry I can't be more definitive but I hope this helps.Regards,John Livingston « Show Less
456047
Also try a different blade. I only use blades in my unit and never had any problems.
2200304
I use an accu-sharp knife and tool sharpener. It does a fantastic job on this particular blade. When you see one; the way it is used is pretty self-explanatory.
881204
Dear SG, I'm not very good either, at sharpening. So I bought one of the relatively inexpensive ceramic rod sharpeners. they have a plastic frame that holds the knife at about twenty degrees, all you have to remember is to pass the blade over the rod aproximately the same number of strokes for each side to keep them even. You can't really mess up to bad, just set the sharpener on a flat surface and run the blade it's full length on the ceramic rod, use aproximately the same presure on each side of blade. Not much pressure is required. You will notice as t he blade is sharpened it will get more and more shinny on the cutting edge. No oil or water is necessary on these types of sharpeners as would be on a traditiional stone.The edge you can get with six or seven passes on each side of blade should be plenty sharpe enough for the average job.Don't let the blade get too dull between sharpening as it lenthens the amount of time necessary to bring up a good cutting edge. Best of luck on it, start off with your cheapest blade even though the chances of doing any harm are small. Gary petersen
1239246
It actually sharpens very well, and quickly! 8Cr13MoV is a high-grade stainless steel that is slightly softer than, say, AUS-8 (itss most comparative steel, some say). With a good diamond sharpener, I've found that the blade sharpens fast, and stays sharp under normal/moderately extreme use, from breaking down cardboard boxes to carving sandstone (though highly possible, the latter use is not a good use for any knife). Try the Smith's PocketPal sharpener or one of Kershaw's sharpeners. Hope that helps!
727536
In my experience, make sure the aluminum piece that goes up next to the blade is adjusted properly. If not it will rub against the blade. More information would be helpfull