For a Predator 212cc. Clutch slids on fine, but shaft sticks out 1/4" past clutch. Is there a spacer so I can keep it from sliding back and forth?
1427830
I don't think I had the same problem. Use an appropriate sized bronze bushing or even a few washers on either side of the clutch-it doesn't matter really just make sure it doesn't slide around. Or you could cut the end of the crank shaft, but I wouldn't unless you know what you're doing.
1427831
I just used washers in back of the clutch and one in front then a bolt in the shaft. Works great.
2003442
Yes it is just one screw it has to be almost out and it is kind of tough to get the motor off the shaft! I think I hd to use a long screw driver as leverage! Good luck. And install was much easier then uninstall!
1875914
The shaft is 3/4 don't remember how long exactly for sure. I mounted a comet tourque converter clutch on it no Problem.
1905233
Bolt and washer on end of shaft set the tension on chain so clutch can't slide to hit motor
837290
I have not had that problem, is the lever loose? mine is spring loaded. sorryis it the right size shaft?
1088451
All you need to know is wether the shaft size matches the hole in the clutch. It's ether 5/8or3/4.
1531269
Yes it does. But they will not stay tight. You need a cap screw in the end of the drive shaft with spacers to allow the clutch to move sideways about 1/8". This allows the clutch to self align.
1790724
You will need 1mm rings to press onto the carb boot side, I believe HVC Cycle has them. Also, if your throttle cables are not correct, you may have to have them modified.
1610059
Thank you everyone, it is in fact a 135mm spacing. I have a couple of options I guess, either have a cold set done to narrow the spacing to 130mm or go with a disc brake wheel, these are made for 135mm spaces, allowing extra room for the rotor. I just won't be putting a rotor on it. In the long run it might be worth having the cold set done?
19506
You need to buy a longer BB to account for it. I'm going through the same issue. What I haven't seen a comment on is how this affects the non-drive side. Would you notice it when pedaling, especally if you "clip-in". This chart gives you the symetrical equivalent - http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html . My 3T spindle would need a 130 symetrical BB.
1405349
Something with chain maybe the alignment or your clutch is not pulling in far enough
2134710
I just had this problem with the outter rotor drive belt coming off the pulleys, there's a threaded insert on the pulley side of the rotor driveshaft that comes loose and unscrews allowing the shaft bearing to move out of it's recess in the side cover and the belt comes off. You can tighten the insert back up by removing the other side cover and using an allen wrench and a hex wrench on the pulley just make sure the rotor drive hex is aligned properly as you tighten it back up. Maybe some thread locker would cure the problem or it just wasn't properly torqued to begin with when assembled. The rotor should be tight with no side to side movement, if there is side to side play then the belt will come off. I just had this problem with the outter rotor drive belt coming off the pulleys, there's a threaded insert on the pulley side of the rotor driveshaft that comes loose and unscrews allowing the shaft bearing to move out of it's recess in the side cover and the belt comes off. You can tighten the insert back up by removing the other side cover and using an allen wrench and a hex wrench on the pulley just make sure the rotor drive hex is aligned properly as you tighten it back up. Maybe some thread locker would cure the problem or it just wasn't properly torqued to begin with when assembled.... » Read More I just had this problem with the outter rotor drive belt coming off the pulleys, there's a threaded insert on the pulley side of the rotor driveshaft that comes loose and unscrews allowing the shaft bearing to move out of it's recess in the side cover and the belt comes off. You can tighten the insert back up by removing the other side cover and using an allen wrench and a hex wrench on the pulley just make sure the rotor drive hex is aligned properly as you tighten it back up. Maybe some thread locker would cure the problem or it just wasn't properly torqued to begin with when assembled. The rotor should be tight with no side to side movement, if there is side to side play then the belt will come off. « Show Less
1405348
some times the clutch is froze take the plate off oposite of the chain in side remove the screw then the clutch plate remove spark plug i use clothes line push in cylider to stop motor from turnigturn the thee pins from the clutch untill it lets go it will be free and ready i forgot sqeese cluth and lock it another way for more info go to enginesonline.com they have step by step pictures
1523517
Hi John. I bought this hoping that I wouldn't have to replace the whole throttle body as you are probably trying to do. As I recall, the position of the slot relative to the body cannot be changed, it is spring loaded. I had hoped to install it, adjust the position by turning the body, and then securing it with the screws when I got the position right based on the idle, but I could not get it to work. The idle was too high and I could not bring it down. The local shop couldn't adjust it either, apparently they are calibrated together at the factory. I ended up having to buy a whole new throttle body assembly. Hi John. I bought this hoping that I wouldn't have to replace the whole throttle body as you are probably trying to do. As I recall, the position of the slot relative to the body cannot be changed, it is spring loaded. I had hoped to install it, adjust the position by turning the body, and then securing it with the screws when I got the position right based on the idle, but I could not get it to work. The idle was too high and I could not bring it down. The local shop couldn't adjust it either, apparently they are calibrated together at the factory. I ended up having to buy a whole new... » Read More Hi John. I bought this hoping that I wouldn't have to replace the whole throttle body as you are probably trying to do. As I recall, the position of the slot relative to the body cannot be changed, it is spring loaded. I had hoped to install it, adjust the position by turning the body, and then securing it with the screws when I got the position right based on the idle, but I could not get it to work. The idle was too high and I could not bring it down. The local shop couldn't adjust it either, apparently they are calibrated together at the factory. I ended up having to buy a whole new throttle body assembly. « Show Less
520912
Yes that is what I have it on. They give you spacers and washers to fit all types of shafts..
491401
Measure it from shaft to shaft. on the motor I bought, I had to swap out the long shaft with my short one. Started up first time around.
1146334
It's a little tight and you'll probably bottom out on your fender, that's why I added 1.5" spacers to give me 4.5 " best decision for me, looks great!