Hi Sir, What are the Open Circuit Voltage, Voltage at Maximum Power and Current at Maximum Power. What to be sure it will suit my Tesla Solar Tracker
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Electrical specifications STC. Maximum Power (Pmax): 136 W. Voltage at Pmax (Vmp): 33.0 V. Current at Pmax (Imp): 4.1 A. Short-circuit Current (Isc): 5.1 A. Open-circuit Voltage (Voc): 46.2 V.
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Hello I believe it is a voltage regulator only,I bought several of these and I did not see any thing more then just to regulate the voltage, and it works good,make sure the voltage regulator and the solar panel are both 12 or 24 volt as i burned my first 12 V reg as I bought and hooked up a 24 V solar panel and cooked it :(John graber
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I only tested the unit by hooking it up to my car batteries (two in serial for 24v DC) and it works. I suppose as long as your solar panels under the full sun won't exceed the the unit maximum input voltage ratings you should be fine. You can connect your panels in serial or parallel or in combination to provide the voltage within the range specified by the unit. Obviously it should work (producing power) during the day with full sun but voltage/current would tapering off (so as the power generation) when the sun goes down. You may also want to check out many videos posted on Youtube.com to answer your questions. I only tested the unit by hooking it up to my car batteries (two in serial for 24v DC) and it works. I suppose as long as your solar panels under the full sun won't exceed the the unit maximum input voltage ratings you should be fine. You can connect your panels in serial or parallel or in combination to provide the voltage within the range specified by the unit. Obviously it should work (producing power) during the day with full sun but voltage/current would tapering off (so as the power generation) when the sun goes down. You may also want to check out many videos posted on Youtube.com to... » Read More I only tested the unit by hooking it up to my car batteries (two in serial for 24v DC) and it works. I suppose as long as your solar panels under the full sun won't exceed the the unit maximum input voltage ratings you should be fine. You can connect your panels in serial or parallel or in combination to provide the voltage within the range specified by the unit. Obviously it should work (producing power) during the day with full sun but voltage/current would tapering off (so as the power generation) when the sun goes down. You may also want to check out many videos posted on Youtube.com to answer your questions. « Show Less
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If you measure the voltage between the panels and the controller (during good sunlight) you should expect the voltage to be higher, like the 16V mentioned - more in line to what the raw panels will put out, this is dependent on good sunlight and positioned correctly. It could be lower if sunlight is marginal. When you measure the voltage between the batteries and the charge controller you would expect a reading like 13.7 volts. If the voltage is 16 volts going to the batteries you'll boil them, i.e. gas discharge, etc.... The charge controller will regulate the voltage for a proper charging environment. 13.7 volts is appropriate.... If you measure the voltage between the panels and the controller (during good sunlight) you should expect the voltage to be higher, like the 16V mentioned - more in line to what the raw panels will put out, this is dependent on good sunlight and positioned correctly. It could be lower if sunlight is marginal. When you measure the voltage between the batteries and the charge controller you would expect a reading like 13.7 volts. If the voltage is 16 volts going to the batteries you'll boil them, i.e. gas discharge, etc.... The charge controller will regulate the voltage for a proper charging... » Read More If you measure the voltage between the panels and the controller (during good sunlight) you should expect the voltage to be higher, like the 16V mentioned - more in line to what the raw panels will put out, this is dependent on good sunlight and positioned correctly. It could be lower if sunlight is marginal. When you measure the voltage between the batteries and the charge controller you would expect a reading like 13.7 volts. If the voltage is 16 volts going to the batteries you'll boil them, i.e. gas discharge, etc.... The charge controller will regulate the voltage for a proper charging environment. 13.7 volts is appropriate.... « Show Less
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Look on the adapter and it will tell you...I believe it is about 20 volts...you could definitely make a solar charger...the other option, one I use, is to use a 12V to 120 adapter and then can plug any 120v appliance in to the standard outlet...obviously within the wattage of the solar panel and adapter...and it will exhibit some loss...typically about 20%
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Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more help....Phillip Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more... » Read More Robbin: Sorry may not be able to help you here.. I've looked at the pictures and information of the Yeti and cannot confirm what is needed to hook the solar panel to it. I can only mention that I have had this particular solar panel up and running for 2 years and it still going strong. However you hook it up, please be sure that some type of charge control is used. The Yeti may have an internal one but I doubt it. That solar panel puts out about 1.9 amps of current in strong sunlight and without charge control could overcharge any battery pack hooked to it. Sorry I can't be of more help....Phillip « Show Less
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The voltage I measured is .55 volts per cell (open circuit) and I have measured short circuit current of at least 4 amps under less than ideal conditions. I expect more current when summer returns and the sun cooperates! Also note that I live in the Seattle area which is not exactly equal to Phoenix!
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http://www.goalzero.com/p/12/nomad-13-solar-panel Click on the Tech Specs tab. 13W 18-32V
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A 30A Charge controller WILL be adequate and will work but it is a narrow margin for your 145 watt panels. I estimated the amperage on your panels @ 7.25 amps each, that put you right at 29 amps. Barring any solar fluxes that might tip the controller to temp shut down you should be ok.
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You've probably checked on line, but this is a good site to reference http://www.chargingchargers.com/tutorials/solar.html 25 milliamps is really small, and may not generate enough watts to bring the controller into play. I connected the controller to a largish solar panel, output approx 20 volts, for keeping my boat battery topped up.. the combination seems to work well at this level. Hope this helps.
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You should have no problems with your setup. The Sun-600G starts working when it detects 22V. I have 3 units working without any issues for a year already. Good luck with your project !
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yes the voltage output will vary with the amount of sunlight. I have my panels setup to produce a max of 36 vdc charging a 12 vdc battery bank. your charge controller needs to match your projected final system capacity, if there is a possibility of adding on later. I have a mix of 144s and 88s
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If I understand your question correctly. your requirement is for a 400 watts solar input and if 408 watts of solar input is ok, I am assuming your question is for an off grid system (charging batteries). Question is if your your charge controller can accommodate additional 8 watts of input or ignore this additional watts without damaging any of the equipment. Please check the documentation of your equipment (charge controller) if it will work properly with the additional power provided by the solar panels. Normally additional power provided by the solar panels is ignored, one should make sure that electrical specs are matched with the solar input with the charger such as input voltage 24v panel and 24v charge controller input. Output from the charge controller should be matched with the battery voltage such as 24v solar panel, 24v charger and 24v battery, if different use an MPPT charge controller which can accept higher voltage from the solar panel and charge a lower voltage battery such as 24v panel, MPPT charge controller and 12v battery. Hope I have answered the question.
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Unit has been connected to my solar array (Xantrax 60 amp charge controller) with 100 amp shunt since Aug 2013 and been working 24/7 without a hitch. Allows constant monitoring of battery voltage and charge current remotely. Voltage and current to 100 BUT meter power supply must be 12v-18volt.
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I'm no Electrical Engineer, but this is what I have to offer: The charger I have is a Worx WA3737. The specifications for the charger are: Input: AC 100V-120V, 50/60 Hz, 1.5A. Output: 24V, 1.5A. Output DC barrel jack: Polarity = positive (outside = neg, inside = pos.) If your solar array can match the input specs for the charger, which I suspect you can't, you have no problem. On the other hand, if your solar generator can match the output specs for the charger, you should be able to charge the battery by some means other than the OEM charger, but the OEM charger may have components that protect the battery against overcharging, shorting, etc. In other words, you would have to have someone with knowledge of electronics crack open the supplied charger to see the circuitry and use/match that configuration for your new charger which is built for input from your solar generator. Of course, this would probably void the warranty, and should be done only by someone with a knowledge of electronics. Hope this helps.
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Zach, go to the website: Remember to calculate the maximum voltage you will receive. For example, I use a 24 volt system for five solar panels of 270 watts each. When the sun shines at high noon, I get about 35v going to the batteries. So I figure my watts limitation for the C60 Charge controller is 2100, but I am coming in at 1350 watts for five panels.
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The Sunforce 60032 is rated for "12V" solar panels. These typically have an open loop voltage of around 21 volts, or so. It's interesting to note that a solar cell is a current, not voltage source, so it tries to deliver a constant current and raises the voltage up to a maximum as the load is reduced. Power output is voltage times current. In the open loop configuration (no load) the voltage is maximized but the current is zero. In the short circuit configuration the current is maximized but the voltage is zero. In both these cases the power output is zero watts. To draw power from the panel requires a resistive load so that both the voltage and current are non-zero. The Sunforce 60032 is rated for "12V" solar panels. These typically have an open loop voltage of around 21 volts, or so. It's interesting to note that a solar cell is a current, not voltage source, so it tries to deliver a constant current and raises the voltage up to a maximum as the load is reduced. Power output is voltage times current. In the open loop configuration (no load) the voltage is maximized but the current is zero. In the short circuit configuration the current is maximized but the voltage is zero. In both these cases the power output is zero watts. To draw power... » Read More The Sunforce 60032 is rated for "12V" solar panels. These typically have an open loop voltage of around 21 volts, or so. It's interesting to note that a solar cell is a current, not voltage source, so it tries to deliver a constant current and raises the voltage up to a maximum as the load is reduced. Power output is voltage times current. In the open loop configuration (no load) the voltage is maximized but the current is zero. In the short circuit configuration the current is maximized but the voltage is zero. In both these cases the power output is zero watts. To draw power from the panel requires a resistive load so that both the voltage and current are non-zero. « Show Less