I have tried for three years to get this product to coat concrete stairs with same results as all of you. So, how do I just remove this junk?
1370330
we used a power washer (that shredded our deck- sigh) and hands and knees scraping with a metal putty knife-for weeks! No easy way for sure. Hope it goes better for you.
1370331
We contacted Rust O Leum too and we didn't get a response. I have no idea to remove it, wish I could be of help. We are very disappointed with the product!
1370332
We ended up contacting rust oleum and they reimbursed the paint purchase price and send us a special paint remover to get rid of it.
1370333
The Rust-Oleum version is absolutely pathetic. The original product was great then they sold to Rust-Oleum and it became useless ... failed on all accounts, expensive and a time-waster, big time! The company was non responsive, consequently would never touch Restore ever again. I used it on our concrete church walkway and it basically dissolved ... embarassing! Would suggest a power washer ... maybe using it on a hot day when the concrete has expanded slightly might work. On my wood deck it just flaked up and pealed. Lousy product all the way around. The Rust-Oleum product lines have no doubt suffered and rightfully so. Good luck! The Rust-Oleum version is absolutely pathetic. The original product was great then they sold to Rust-Oleum and it became useless ... failed on all accounts, expensive and a time-waster, big time! The company was non responsive, consequently would never touch Restore ever again. I used it on our concrete church walkway and it basically dissolved ... embarassing! Would suggest a power washer ... maybe using it on a hot day when the concrete has expanded slightly might work. On my wood deck it just flaked up and pealed. Lousy product all the way around. The Rust-Oleum product lines have no... » Read More The Rust-Oleum version is absolutely pathetic. The original product was great then they sold to Rust-Oleum and it became useless ... failed on all accounts, expensive and a time-waster, big time! The company was non responsive, consequently would never touch Restore ever again. I used it on our concrete church walkway and it basically dissolved ... embarassing! Would suggest a power washer ... maybe using it on a hot day when the concrete has expanded slightly might work. On my wood deck it just flaked up and pealed. Lousy product all the way around. The Rust-Oleum product lines have no doubt suffered and rightfully so. Good luck! « Show Less
1370334
My application was on a wood gazebo. I just scraped and wire brushed the loose stuff, then painted over with a normal heavy duty deck finish. Maybe you could just paint over it with a quality concrete paint.
952555
Try 3m caulk remover. May not dissolve it, but at least should make removal easier
180047
I just went and felt the tape I put on my basement stairs (a couple years ago now). It's like there are little granules/grit sprinkled throughout, but they're beneath a sort of coating of soft polymer. (I've noted before how it doesn't even feel uncomfortable to bare feet as you go quickly down the stairs, and I guess that's why.) I have wood floors myself, and I'd be comfortable trying what you said, though I'd make a note to check after 6 months or so to see if that coating wears off and exposes the granules/grit, which then might be abrasive to the floors. You're putting a lot of concentrated weight on the bottom rails of a rocking chair, so it might wear off faster than just people walking down stairs.
200807
I did not reuse any of the grit from any of the 4 steps. The post tumble solutions are very chalky and thick. The grit is relatively inexpensive so I just disposed of the residue from each step. I have only completed two batches so I am open to anyone else's suggestions.
499160
I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and plug it up requiring removal to clean it off. I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and... » Read More I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and plug it up requiring removal to clean it off. « Show Less
656180
I use this on a 14 year fiberglass boat. the boat was either in the water or winter storage. it had quite a bit of oxidation on it. I bought a Makita buffer to buff out the boat. it was a lot of work. I am thinking I should have first got a very coarse grit buffing compound. one thing that worked well to get the grime off the boat was gel toilet bowl cleaner I bought at the dollar store. again with a project that old, I would get a very coarse buffing compound then perhaps followed up with this product. get on YouTube and see how they clean boats with this stuff, that's what I did. my project turned out the sort of okay with this product but it was a lot of work. I use this on a 14 year fiberglass boat. the boat was either in the water or winter storage. it had quite a bit of oxidation on it. I bought a Makita buffer to buff out the boat. it was a lot of work. I am thinking I should have first got a very coarse grit buffing compound. one thing that worked well to get the grime off the boat was gel toilet bowl cleaner I bought at the dollar store. again with a project that old, I would get a very coarse buffing compound then perhaps followed up with this product. get on YouTube and see how they clean boats with this stuff, that's what I did. my... » Read More I use this on a 14 year fiberglass boat. the boat was either in the water or winter storage. it had quite a bit of oxidation on it. I bought a Makita buffer to buff out the boat. it was a lot of work. I am thinking I should have first got a very coarse grit buffing compound. one thing that worked well to get the grime off the boat was gel toilet bowl cleaner I bought at the dollar store. again with a project that old, I would get a very coarse buffing compound then perhaps followed up with this product. get on YouTube and see how they clean boats with this stuff, that's what I did. my project turned out the sort of okay with this product but it was a lot of work. « Show Less
520850
When I have to remove it about once a year, its on a round metal drum. And it is a pain, takes solvent to soften it then I use puddy knifes to scrape it off. Best way I found and I have been removing this stuff for about 15 years. The solvent I use is a commercial strength but aceton from like home depot will probably work just as well.
1423123
Try peeling or scraping it off. And then to remove the residue just use household fingernail polish remover.
973621
Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing anyway, but I could have saved a lot of time and money. Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing... » Read More Matthew, just paint your cabinets. I wish I had. You may have to sand, or use a chemical stripper to prep the surface first; the kit comes with a chemical deglazer that you use first, but it was a pain. Beyond that I can't see any difference in what's in the kit and what you can buy on the shelf of a Home Depot, although it comes with a can of this stuff you use to pre-age them for a specific look. The final step is a glaze that is AWFUL and hard to work with, esp if you are painting your cabinets white. I wish I had just bought a hand sander and semi gloss paint -- which I ended up doing anyway, but I could have saved a lot of time and money. « Show Less
459374
the fellow who used it at the hardware store told me to leave it on for at least a day. I did. It then hardened and created a nightmare of work with a required call to professionals to remove the railing and to strip with chemicals. unless the product is a table and can be rotated, removed outside to be rinsed etc.... find am alternative.
1441587
I put on the colored coat and added the flakes before it dried. then I added the clear epoxy. I think in order to do a 2nd coat of clear epoxy you need to do it quickly or you have to sand the surface for it to stick. I don't see any benefit to the flakes. just decorative. there is a phone number on the product to call the manufacturer. I will tell you if you do it right, this coating is almost impossible to mess up. I make natural soap and it has had lye on it and has not shown any effect. but the key is to do it right. if your concrete has any moisture in it, the coating will not stick. my concrete was very wet and I had to put fans on it to dry for a week. you have to do the moisture test to see if your concrete is dry. this stuff is the best! .
2260515
What kind of finish? How old are the cabinets? This will REMOVE the finish down to the stain, is that what you want to do? If so, this is the right product. Afterwards you can put on a new finish, like polyurethane. Good luck, Nancy
1100091
I know somebody that removed it from fiberglass - they used a plastic paint scrapper - it took some effort but it did not damage it. May be able to use wd40 or some other adhesive remover to make it easier. I have not tried to remove mine yet and I have a porcelain tub.
930701
You followed the same directions they gave me and unfortunately ended up with the same mess I have with a couch, chair, & ottoman. I am having a H... of a time trying to get it off and am afraid my things are ruined. Hope you have better luck. I personally will never use this product on anything ever again & I have 3 containers of it.
774712
Possibly try brushing the powder residue with a stiff brush, then vacuuming again. Several repeated efforts might help.
1088060
Precut and self stick need to be outlawed. I bought a few strips for my outdoor wooden stairs and within a month it needed to be replaced. I cannot tell you how frustrating it is to spend hours removing a sticky residue left over. A friend of mine told me about an aluminum tread that doesn't require tape. listing asin B006T131GO.
834758
I was sealing brick steps to my front door last year. I put 2 coats on the steps. We had many weeks of ice, snow with temps in the lower single digits for 3 weeks at a time. This year it has been very hot and humid and these steps are in the hot sun until mid-afternoon. The product is still working since it is absorbed into the brick. Brick surface must be clean and dry before applying. I power washed my steps first and let them completely dry. My steps cover a very big area. You can try some and see if it will work on the brick you have!!! That's what I did and it worked for me!