Is this a powered relay? Or if for example I'm trying to power up a lightbulb used as a heating element, do I need to jump power from T1 to T3?
1374324
Yes if you use the same voltage for bulb and controller (120VAC or 230VAC). T1(hot wire) to T3 and T4 to the load. Return wire can be connected to T2 (N). But if load ability of internal relay is lower then bulb current, you have to use SSR or another relay.
1374325
Sorry, but I don't own one of these. I mistakenly purchased one but returned it for credit.
1374326
Hi, Yes this model has a relay but I recommend you install solid relay to swicht the heating element Regards..Rafael Huertaemail: rafael.huerta@live.com
1374327
Yes if you use the same voltage for bulb and controller (120VAC or 230VAC). T1(hot wire) to T3 and T4 to the load. Return wire can be connected to T2 (N).But if load ability of internal relay is lower then bulb current, you have to use SSR or another relay.
1374328
It's not a powered relay - needs a jump from t1 - t3 and '-' from lightbulb to t2.
1374329
Yes, it has NO (normally open) relay and alarm contacts. So connect your power source (110v AC, 12v DC, etc.) to one side of the output or alarm contacts and use the other side as the output. Connect the light bulb or other load from the output to ground. If the load is more than 3Amps you will need an external relay.
2039736
im not really sure of the layout your talking about. but this usually kicks in when the utility power shuts off. If you want instant power switching i would use a dpst contactor. They are cheaper and instant power switching. You can hook the 120 to the coil from generator and when the generator is supplying power it switches to itself and when you shut off power it will go back to your solar bank. These range from 20-60 dollars and are dead simple to install.
2217359
I use mine to control my light bar, front, and back emergency lights. Mine are all LED lights, so if you have a high amp draw I would suggest using a relay.
680635
You need an automotive relay to switch from low too high. The lights will not work with both inputs active. I do not remember my actual wiring arrangement, but it did not work the way I thought it should the first time and I had to rethink the problem. Also the relay would not switch without the motorcycle headlight in the circuit. I've ran these for two years on a street bike with no issues.
1362394
I dont know, it depends on if your high beams are switched on. It takes power from the high beam signal to trigger a relay and that relay will feed power to the low beam elements. Hope this helps. Tim
1104427
The 12VDC is only to drive the relay coils. Use the middle terminal (Common) to complete your circuit. You supply power for each relay. http://electronicsclub.info/relays.htm
1195746
A relay is included but I didnt need it. Check your furnace set up...chances are you have a 24v HUM hookup on your furnace.
1816702
The idea of a relay is to switch a higher current circuit with a lower current input. For example, you could use a tiny on/off switch meant to only handle 1-2 amps to power the relay, and that closes the circuit on an isolated circuit of the relay that can handle up to 40 amps (big lights, for example). If you ran the small switch directly on the input of the lights, you'd burn out your switch instantly.
460164
I didn't but its not a bad idea. how big?no less then 50amps with reset, it depends on how much you draw i don't think you need a relay
731182
If I understand your question there are a couple of ways to do this. Since the timer is going to power the relay there will be no issue with amperage draw. The relay doesn't draw appreciable current, it's just a relay. One way to proceed is to install the timer "upstream" of the lighted switch. In this approach you wire the timer into your 12 volt system (remember a fuse or breaker and check the ampacity of the wire) your timer becomes the source of power to the lighted switch and in turn the relay. Of course the heavy load that your relay controls remains wired as it always has been. Should you wish to shut down the heater for a long time you can simply turn off the lighted switch and ignore the timer. A second approach would be to remove the lighted switch entirely and simply use the timer as the power source for your relay. Again just for the switching, not for the load. These timers can be programed but they also have a manual function so you can over ride the programming and turn your heater on manually should you choose.
229102
No and that is my issue with this switch now. It worked great with incandescent bulbs but when I switched the three (porch area) out to LED, it controls them but also randomly turns each of the three in the circuit on and off like some odd Halloween light show -- only happens when it is supposed to be off and nothing picking up from the remote sensor. I even tried mixing back one incandescent bulb in an attempt to trick the circuit but it did not work any better.It looks like it is pulsing power out here and there which the LEDs are sensitive enough and require so little current that it momentarily lights them up.Time to look for another product that supports the new lighting standard. No and that is my issue with this switch now. It worked great with incandescent bulbs but when I switched the three (porch area) out to LED, it controls them but also randomly turns each of the three in the circuit on and off like some odd Halloween light show -- only happens when it is supposed to be off and nothing picking up from the remote sensor. I even tried mixing back one incandescent bulb in an attempt to trick the circuit but it did not work any better.It looks like it is pulsing power out here and there which the LEDs are sensitive enough and require so little current that... » Read More No and that is my issue with this switch now. It worked great with incandescent bulbs but when I switched the three (porch area) out to LED, it controls them but also randomly turns each of the three in the circuit on and off like some odd Halloween light show -- only happens when it is supposed to be off and nothing picking up from the remote sensor. I even tried mixing back one incandescent bulb in an attempt to trick the circuit but it did not work any better.It looks like it is pulsing power out here and there which the LEDs are sensitive enough and require so little current that it momentarily lights them up.Time to look for another product that supports the new lighting standard. « Show Less
2034007
This just plugs in and stays on. Some people wire a relay to the cool control wire (reversing solenoid) to power it on in the cool mode only. It is not needed when heating. Or you can simply un-plug it when you don't need it. The bulbs are recommended to be replaced annually because they make more money that way. They last longer if not used full time. Replacements are only $12.90 from Lampline Lighting Inc. Order TUV PL-L 18W/4P and save 50% over everyone else.
2180252
I believe so. It has a heat side and a cooling side. Just make sure when you wire it up you use there relay as a switch only, it does not supply power. I just searched the net for a wiring diagram. Good luck.
2039735
Nothing in your question makes any sense.... you need to get a qualified electrician to do your project. The Go Power TS 30 is simply an either-or automatic switch. It appears to me that you are trolling.
939366
No, the coil that activates the relay is 120VAC - use R04-11D30-12 for a 12VDC coil and contacts that can carry 30A at 120VAC
705176
I assume you want to replace your relay/contactor with the ELV4 which is programmable. Is the base board hot water or electric? The current draw through the load will either be resistive or a circulator motor. And the current will flow through contact points in the ELV4 not sensitive electronics. The one I purchased is used on control a baseboard hot water circulator.
190979
This is suspect. I would check your volt meter....put a load on the relay and measure it again...its a standard relay and there should be no voltage present. I have encountered mystery power from leads before...but I think its just erronious readings from the meter....are you using a good quality meter? Fluke? Klein? Can you hook a miniature light bulb or LED up to the relay leads and see if there is enough power to activate the bulb? Also how much voltage are you using to power the beam sensor? I used a 12 volt dc power supply with great results. One last thing. Connect your switching device and measure the voltage again. My bet is its gone.... This is suspect. I would check your volt meter....put a load on the relay and measure it again...its a standard relay and there should be no voltage present. I have encountered mystery power from leads before...but I think its just erronious readings from the meter....are you using a good quality meter? Fluke? Klein? Can you hook a miniature light bulb or LED up to the relay leads and see if there is enough power to activate the bulb? Also how much voltage are you using to power the beam sensor? I used a 12 volt dc power supply with great results. One last thing. Connect your switching... » Read More This is suspect. I would check your volt meter....put a load on the relay and measure it again...its a standard relay and there should be no voltage present. I have encountered mystery power from leads before...but I think its just erronious readings from the meter....are you using a good quality meter? Fluke? Klein? Can you hook a miniature light bulb or LED up to the relay leads and see if there is enough power to activate the bulb? Also how much voltage are you using to power the beam sensor? I used a 12 volt dc power supply with great results. One last thing. Connect your switching device and measure the voltage again. My bet is its gone.... « Show Less