AC meter, How are the plus and minus connections used in an AC circuit. Hot and neutral?
1391248
That is correct. Note that the hour meter is not resettable. The other answers are also correct.
1391249
I had the same problem (question). The label on the hour meter says that the connections are polarity sensitive but when using to monitor AC usage, there is no polarity. I communicated with the vendors customer rep., and was told that they had engineered the counter to be able to be used in a AC or DC application, but to save money with parts that had already been labeled, they continued to ship the new design with the old labels. They told me to use the meter (counter) without regard to the plus and minus lables. I tried it and it works.
424889
The hookup of the meter is very simple.2 green wires go to the pickup coil and the other 2 are for the AC voltage.Just put the high side of the lineTHRU THE sensor.Kc2igr1@gmail.com908.290.7622Mike
2126062
This adapter is Alternating Current. There should not be a positive or negative terminal defined. Double check the label to make sure it lists AC 24 or say AC/AC on it.
956294
The strange connectors are for connecting the hot and neutral wires. Make sure the wires fit tight and will not pull out; otherwise use regular wire nuts. Install only if you know what you are working with, electricity!
116715
Connect Neutral to white, and then hot to either of the other two leads... either Low speed, or High Speed... Not both.
812493
On the side of the unit, it says "7-9 Volt", and a diagram for NEGATIVE CENTER. This is important because most wall adapters are positive-center, and using the wrong one might burn out the machine (unless the circuit designers went the extra mile to protect against that, which I'm not going to try to find out).
1550327
I have 3 in service and I just tested one on the bench by reversing the source and load. They DO NOT read current in the reverse direction.There is info on the Amazon Site as how to hook up the amp meter. The yellow wire goes to the load negative
1749653
There is one red and black wire that needs to be connected to a separate power source. I used a 9v battery. Black goes to the side of she shunt inline closest to the battery, the yellow goes to the shunt closest to load. The Red goes to battery positive. I used the meter to measure amps from my inverter. Works great.
1887586
N - NeutralL - LiveYou will need a multimeter to see which wire coming from the wall outlet is Live and which one is Neutral. There are several videos on YouTube which show you how to do it.
1311066
It uses your basic 110 outlet. It heats quickly and has never tripped any breakers.
664119
This truly need a designated circuit. If not you can't use any other devices on that circuit. It will trip breaker. I had one installed upstairs and downstairs a few yrs ago for ac and heat. I plugged it into a outlet with just my computer and cell phone charger on it and it tripped. It maxes out 15 amp circuit. But it work very well keeps 900 sq ft room nice and comfy.
1292031
The way to check it with a meter, is for continuity, not voltage. Put your meter on OHMS and check between the battery neg post and where the cable attached. You will see it reads "Open" when the knob is turned clockwise to loosen it. When tightened the connection is completed and you will have continuity "0". Proven that no electricity will flow with the knob loosened.
32862
There are four number 10 guage conductors in this cable. That's what 10/4 means. Runs my whole house, minus A/C.
50760
Thanks...i used a small 5v USB charger and powered it from my switched AC source. I just don't see where anyone mentions you need an independent supply of 4 to 30 V to run the meter. I was planning to use the power supply I was building into a case with the meter to show voltage and current being used by the connected devices.
1133581
Well, first off, there is no voltage gauge on this model. The gauge is for amperage. There could be a lot of reasons for the amp gauge appearing to not work - a disconnected cable inside (that happens), a faulty gauge (rare, but possible), no load on the charger (are the battery cables connected securely?), timer knob not set from the "OFF" position (very likely), Volt/Amp selector not set from the "OFF" position (also very likely). These types of gauges are not entirely useful anyway since they basically only indicate an approximate reading that suggests the darn thing is turned on. If it appears to be running and if you have a voltage and ammeter, you can test both to see if it's putting out proper power to match the settings. The only complaint I had about this charger is that the internal fan is crap.
511567
Hi Miss, You probable have your answer but I thought I would elaborate on this. On the DC side, 25 amps. On the AC side, 15 or 20 amp fuse or circuit breaker. Not sure which side e.g. AC or DC you were refering to. You could use a AC power strip & surge protector that has a 15 amp breaker built into it with a manual reset button. Good luck, Greg.
1313420
Turn the power off and twist the two hots together, twist the two neutrals together, and wire nut the leads off the outlet to the twisted wires. The little orange wire nuts won't be big enough, so you will have to get different wire nuts. The neutral could still have a load on it, if it is shared with another circuit, so you might be better off hiring an electrician to change it out for you.