I show 4 terminals for power up top, do they automatically power the sides or do I need a jumper to power the sides?
1402505
No they don't. You'll still have to power the strips, but all the power lines are connected in the board itself. (The row across the top and the power columns are all connected)
1402506
The 4 terminals on the top are just to hold your power connections. They themselves aren't wired to anything and actually come separated from the board, they just tighten on.
872619
Just an update to my earlier post. Each fuse has it's own circuit/power source. On my 5'er I just unplugged the existing wires and attached them to the terminals on the new panel.
1070552
Basically you just tie in the power cables to the tightening nut connected to the battery terminal (positive and negative). That would be the simplest way and less hardware needed.
1122028
There is a 'load' power switch in the upper right hand corner that does what you want ... unless you leave the switch ON, there is NO automatic. HTH.
561992
Its 4 just use 2 if the contacts ever burn out you can switch to the other 2 terminals
2153851
This is a switch so you only want positive connections - one from the battery and the other from the load. These generally attach to the largest of the 2 studs and it normally doesn't matter which one the battery cable attaches to and which one the load cable attaches to. The 3rd terminal is for the Switch and often this terminal has an S next to it but not always. You shouldn't have to do anything with your negative cable(s) which should already be connected properly. If this is a brand new circuit then connect the negative cable from the load(motor,etc)to a negative bus bar or the negative terminal of the battery This is a switch so you only want positive connections - one from the battery and the other from the load. These generally attach to the largest of the 2 studs and it normally doesn't matter which one the battery cable attaches to and which one the load cable attaches to. The 3rd terminal is for the Switch and often this terminal has an S next to it but not always. You shouldn't have to do anything with your negative cable(s) which should already be connected properly. If this is a brand new circuit then connect the negative cable from the load(motor,etc)to a negative bus bar or the... » Read More This is a switch so you only want positive connections - one from the battery and the other from the load. These generally attach to the largest of the 2 studs and it normally doesn't matter which one the battery cable attaches to and which one the load cable attaches to. The 3rd terminal is for the Switch and often this terminal has an S next to it but not always. You shouldn't have to do anything with your negative cable(s) which should already be connected properly. If this is a brand new circuit then connect the negative cable from the load(motor,etc)to a negative bus bar or the negative terminal of the battery « Show Less
1384917
Sort of. You need to open it up, add a jumper and move a jumper on the power board. Requires soldering and about an hour of time
740919
It really doesn't matter. The 4 pin connectors are specifically designed to connect 4 wire jumpers that have a 4 pin plug on the end. There are 5 pin connectors for use with 5 wire jumpers that have a 5 pine plug on the end. They have no other use that I'm aware of. All the 4 and 5 wire jumpers come with a female plug on the end. Some come a removable 4 or 5 pin connector already installed. Some don't. The connectors are cheap so having extras around doesn't cost much. I have found that the 4 or 5 wire jumpers that come with a plug on one end, and bare (and tinned) wires on the other end, have very limited used. The wires are really too small to connect to a component that has terminal connections, but you can used the smallest (gray) wire nut to slice the fine jumper wires to a larger gauge wire, that can then be connected to a terminal. This method has proved to be the easiest and most reliable and also allows for future changes in wiring configuration. One thing I've learned is, once you start playing with LED lighting, changes/improvements are inevitable and mostly fun.
2154455
A wiring diagram would be that of what you intend to use the solenoid for.Wire size is dependant on what Amperage draw the load that is running draws.The only "required" value for this solenoid is 12 volts DC to activate it.If you are attempting to determine how to wire this solenoid it is as follows:one small terminal is for the ground, the other is for the 12+ to activate.One large terminal is the line in or source of power to the load or device you are powering. The other large terminal is the power out to the device. It doesn't really matter which side you choose for which.Good Luck A wiring diagram would be that of what you intend to use the solenoid for.Wire size is dependant on what Amperage draw the load that is running draws.The only "required" value for this solenoid is 12 volts DC to activate it.If you are attempting to determine how to wire this solenoid it is as follows:one small terminal is for the ground, the other is for the 12+ to activate.One large terminal is the line in or source of power to the load or device you are powering. The other large terminal is the power out to the device. It doesn't really matter which... » Read More A wiring diagram would be that of what you intend to use the solenoid for.Wire size is dependant on what Amperage draw the load that is running draws.The only "required" value for this solenoid is 12 volts DC to activate it.If you are attempting to determine how to wire this solenoid it is as follows:one small terminal is for the ground, the other is for the 12+ to activate.One large terminal is the line in or source of power to the load or device you are powering. The other large terminal is the power out to the device. It doesn't really matter which side you choose for which.Good Luck « Show Less
1096501
No! One side is POWER ONLY. This is not a switch. This is for your pocket hard drive. Don't try anything else.
136413
I am not an electrician, but if you google "PLS750C1000 manual" you can see the wiring diagram for an Existing 3-way Install and follow as I try to describe why a jumper is needed. Starting from the right hand 3-way, power comes to the switch, is jumpered across the Common terminal and the Traveler terminal that goes to the timer switch's Line (black) wire. In effect, this bypasses the right hand 3-way providing constant power to the timer's Line, regardless of the 3-way's switch position. The 3-way's other Traveler terminal connects to the timer's 3-way (yellow) wire, and the 3-way switch basically acts like a single pole (regular on/off) switch. If you look at the electrical flow, it goes into the 3-way's Common terminal, then depending on whether the 3-way is switched one way or the other, power either goes to the timer's 3-way (yellow) wire or does not go. That is, the yellow wire is either "on" or "off". (For what it's worth, when the yellow wire is off, power is going through both the switch and jumper to the timer's Line (black) wire. When the yellow is on, power is going through only the jumper to the timer's Line (black) wire.) I have not confirmed this with Honeywell, but I believe the timer looks at its 3-way (yellow) wire for a change of state. When there is a change of state on the timer's 3-way (yellow) wire (from off to on, or from on to off), the timer sees that change and changes the state of the load from whatever it is currently to its opposite (That is, from on to off or from off to on). So, hopefully that answers why the jumper is needed on the other 3-way switch. And that also kind of answers why both travelers are not connected as they would be normally. It's basically because of the timer's design. I hope this helps. If not, I would do as another respondent suggested and call or email Honeywell. They were good at timely answering a wiring question I had, since my setup matches neither their Existing 3-way nor their New 3-way diagrams precisely.
978837
This item only transformed, a top post battery to a side post terminal. I used them to connect several batteries together for a solar system. I had cables with eye hooks on the end and required this type of connector. Don't cut your cables,
44102
it does not. The computer and the docking station will each need its own power supply.
462107
No I did a similar thing with them using a battery and winch... You should be fine just be sure to silicone the back of the terminal once the wires are connected
1746262
I bought a aftermarket positive battery terminal like used to hook up a amp and subwoofers so it gives you spot for your original factory positive wires for the car to the terminal but also gives you a few different spots to hook up accessories like amps or other 12volt accessories and hooked my main positive wires so car starts and all system work 100% like factory set up and ran the power wire from light kit to that same aftermarket terminal and put in another 15amp in line fuse to be 100% safe that lights don't get ruined and car is safe as well..
2245191
IIRC it does, the jump starting option draws a lot of power. I'll check mine when I'm in the garage and if it's different I'll let you know.
485580
you have to remove the plastic strips on each side and open the cover there are 3 screws behind each strip.once removed you'llsee where the power hooks up on terminal board on the bottom right. the remote two wires go to the last holes in board.they enter thru the bottom of heater