Just received this to test my salt water pool but do you have to calibrate it first with solution? I thought this was self calibrating?
1364189
No, it should be calibrated. Make sure you have it set to read salinity. The pool water should read around 0.3 percent, or 3 ppt or 3000 ppm. My chlorinator also reads the amount of salt and it agrees well with this instrument.
826818
I found nothing in the instructions on how to calibrate. We just installed ours and so far it's accurate. Time will tell.
1876018
If it tests for what you want, then yes. It is necessary to check free chlorine in saltwater chlorinator pools to make sure the saltwater system is doing its job. So these strips will work for that (as well as ph, etc.). But you probably also want to test for salt level which these strips will not do.
1095324
No Shauna, The clorine will mess up and counter the good you do with the salt. You really need to empty and start fresh with your bags of salt. Your pool will stay cleaner longer and is so much more economical and easier on the skin than chlorine. Just protect the digital display on your salt pump with a basket or something as the sun will destroy the read-out and you won't be able to program it. This was my mistake. Patti
490842
Gosh I add salt to my pond when I need to and stil use this test kit for the other tests I keep an eye on through out the summer. I hope this helps!
1395223
Yeah, thanks everyone. Really confusing reading online some people say nothing but salt, others say bleach, borax, stabilizer, shock. It's hard to know how to start it. Picking up my pool today and I have my three bags of salt and saltwater generator ready and waiting!
818584
No you can't calibrate it. I have found it to be fairly accurate. Make sure the sensor (on the power cord) is not near the output at the top of the humidifier.
216126
You need to have a solution of known PH so you can test your PH metter and calibrate it according to instructions
216127
In order to calibrATE you do need the packets and thew ionized water. Unless you can get a lab to check it against their equipment
129267
We have this test meter for our community well. We fluorinate according to the EPA guidelines. It works well when it is calibrated. You have to have the 1% fluoride solution and the tabs to calibrate the meter. We had the meter for about 4 months and the sensor went bad. The company replaced it immediately at no cost but with the wrong part. It took several weeks to replace it with the right part. It was on B/O for some time. Now that we use it daily I can get an idea of the level we need to be at. It's a field test and they are not 100% but close enough for what we need. When our levels were low the meter just gave a Lo code. It am not confident it would give you a zero reading you may be looking for.
1606898
You have to use your judgement. For example, if chlorine is very low, add a lb. or two of shock. Speaking for myself, I like to keep the chlorine level on the high side.As long as pH, alkalinity, stabilizer are pretty much within OK ranges, I don't worry about it, assuming the water is clear. But, do note that if your pool water is not stabilized, you will have to use much, much more chlorine. These test strips are ridiculously easy to use. They provide all the information you need in seconds, in an easy-to-read format. Hope this helps.
447173
The chlorine you add burns off anyways so there is no issue of using the generator. I startedmid season a couple years ago and love the thing. mmy only other suggestion is to make sure you get the salt level right at 3000 parts per million don't go higher than that or it will taste salty. make sure you know how many gallons are in the pool and then go to a pool supply place and have them do the calculations for how much salt you'll need
336498
The flow switch has nothing to do with the salt sensor per se. It is a transducer that sends an electric pulse to the system when water moves through the lines. It is very important that the flow switch be positioned correctly to allow the switch to move and send a signal to the system. There is a very small arrow to indicate the correct position. It will not send a pulse to the system if it is even off position just slightly. There must be something really wrong with you system if you have to replace the salt sensor annually. Most likely your sensor is getting calcium deposits and just needs to be cleaned with muriatic acid solution. Be extremely careful mixing muriatic acid with water as it is very volatile. You should have directions for doing this in you salt generator manual or find it online. The Hayward system has a "timer" to flag you to check the salt sensor every so many hours of operation. You may be getting this indication and thinking you need to replace the salt sensor. If you think there is nothing wrong, you can push the diagnostic button for several seconds and it will reset the check indication. Your pool supplier should be able to check the sensor if you suspicion that it is faulty.
430027
It takes about 2 minutes to settle on a value, but it is not accurate for salt water. I returned mine.
1507469
No. If flow light is green, the switch is good. Test water with a salt meter or take a sample to a pool store and have it tested. Also be sure the chlorinator is clean, no calcium build up. Remember to never unplug or plug-in chlorinator when powered up. How old is your chlorinator? Salt level needs to be at least 3500 ppm.
1777384
I have never calibrated mine and not sure how you would do it short of sending it back to factory. I have compared mine with several other test sets and also the system at my pool store and found it to be very accurate.
1198672
You may not have ENOUGH salt in your pool. If you haven't had your water tested, I would suggest you take a sample (up to one cup) to one of your local pool stores and let them test the levels. You will need to give them the size of your pool so they can determine the amount of salt required. That would be my first step. Good luck.