Anyone installed this on a Marlin 30-30 without having to drill the stock? I really hate to bore my new gun stock. It has a screw location in the stock. Will the screw supplied fit this already built in hole? Anyone installed this on a Marlin 30-30 without having to drill the stock? I really hate to bore my new gun stock. It has a screw location in the stock. Will the screw supplied fit this already... » Read More Anyone installed this on a Marlin 30-30 without having to drill the stock? I really hate to bore my new gun stock. It has a screw location in the stock. Will the screw supplied fit this already built in hole? « Show Less
1385957
you have to drill a hole in the stock,make sure you get the same angle as the stock,its easy you can do it.
1385958
The small white and black inlay is something the factory does for looks. It's not for a swivel. You will need to pre drill a hole for the swivel screw. That's how all swivels are installed. I did it on my marlin 30-30 and it looks good and after a few hunting trips I'm glad I did it. Sling swivels are awesome. My buddy bought a sling than just wraps around the but of the stock. He was fighting it the whole time. Just buy the swivels and a nice sling. After you use it you won't be able to imagine you rifle without it. Hope this helps.
1385959
Well to answer that depends on several things, one is that if have to install the srew; your going to want to drill a starter hole so you don't spit the stock. But the screw that's already there, is it front side, facing forward(that is facing down and center when holding it)and dose it all ready have a hole in it; because if it does the Allen Sling Swivel will probably all ready fit in it.
1385960
My 30 30 had a plug in the hole. I drilled carefully with a bit that was the same width and as I did the plug released. I then drilled the depth specified and the screw supplied fit perfectly. Hope that answers your question.
1385961
My stock had a hole already drilled in it, and had a plastic plug in it. When I popped out the plug the hole that was there wasn't big enough for the supplied screw. So, I very carefully drilled the hole out the way the directions explained. As a precaution I put a little drop of PL adhesive in it. I'm never planning on taking that screw out and figured the PL would only strengthen the screw and hole. Hope this helps. MORE IMPORTANTLY....... Be careful with the Allen screw on the barrel end, that can strip out quite easily. Don't loosen and tighten it more than once or twice, and definately use some thread lock. Hope this helps. My stock had a hole already drilled in it, and had a plastic plug in it. When I popped out the plug the hole that was there wasn't big enough for the supplied screw. So, I very carefully drilled the hole out the way the directions explained. As a precaution I put a little drop of PL adhesive in it. I'm never planning on taking that screw out and figured the PL would only strengthen the screw and hole. Hope this helps. MORE IMPORTANTLY....... Be careful with the Allen screw on the barrel end, that can strip out quite easily. Don't loosen and tighten it more than once or twice, and definately... » Read More My stock had a hole already drilled in it, and had a plastic plug in it. When I popped out the plug the hole that was there wasn't big enough for the supplied screw. So, I very carefully drilled the hole out the way the directions explained. As a precaution I put a little drop of PL adhesive in it. I'm never planning on taking that screw out and figured the PL would only strengthen the screw and hole. Hope this helps. MORE IMPORTANTLY....... Be careful with the Allen screw on the barrel end, that can strip out quite easily. Don't loosen and tighten it more than once or twice, and definately use some thread lock. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1385962
Yeah, that plastic plug ain't the screw location, it's an trademark emblem.
1385963
Check the sling swivel box and it should tell you what size of hope needed for the screw. I use mine on a Winchester 30-30 and love it. Furthermore it looks classic
611643
It has a block with 2 screws and nuts. That is how it is secured to stock. It will only work well with the cheap 4 position stock not magpul or full stock
2088159
I will check when I get home at 6 tonight. I have it mounted to the picatinny rail under the handguard furthest forward to the muzzle. I will check and see if the enclosed screw mount with the bipod fits the predrilled hole in the picatinny rail. I personally like to use the picatinny mount its easier and less parts. The screw mount has to mount to the picatinny mount on the bipod then to your hand guard. The more parts means more to come loose and more weight
625011
I didn't need drill bits I just knocked out the pins holding the site to the site block and put the provided nuts and bolts on. a drift pin or a small nail will work to knock the pins out. But I took that one off and installed a new one the following week as I wanted my scope back where it belongs. with this mount you can only put a scout scope or handgun scope on it and the eye relief is way out there lol
1666224
It is a little difficult to adjust. I've had this problem with other brands and models. The two screws only control (or hold) 2 sides of each axis of the laser diode. The other 2 sides are controlled by springs pressing against the diode. You have to adjust each screw at the same time to get it on target. I adjusted mine to where it is dead on. So it can be done with a little time and patience. It took me 10 minutes at the most to zero mine in. And as every other model, after so many shots fired ( 50+ ) it needs to be readjusted. You can improve this by using Loc-Tite on the threads to prevent the screws from backing out ( or loosening). Using this product will make it a little more difficult to turn the adjustment tool. This only means the product is doing its job. A little extra: using a bore sight laser ( one that is the same shape has the ammo you are using and will chamber like a live round) will help a lot to sight in your new laser sight. The bore laser is zeroed in at the factory with special machines that ensure its dead center with the barrel and won't offset.
1762046
Does the rear sight on your rifle have a pin through it so it can be flipped up and down? If so the it should but little advice. I put this on my number 4 I had to get a screw to put in the rear pin hole. Otherwise the mount moves to much.
2012591
MINE IS ROCK SOLID, i flipped my mounting bolts over to the left side, added a drop per bolt of red locktight and after getting it finger tight i ever so slightly tightened mine down a half turn or so past finger tight with a socket.. mines never budged. Even at finger tight mine was on pretty solid with no play or wiggle, is your rail aftermarket ? is it a el-cheapo or a quality rail ? is a factory rail on a AR ? im guessing the problem is not the optic.. however you never know. do other mounts fit you rail solid without issue ? contact Lucid.. they are flat out awesome to work with !
1580047
Yes, it comes with 3 screws and nuts. I carefully positioned mine on the rifle's receiver, superglued it in place, then drilled and tapped the screw locations. Although I tapped the receiver, I also installed the nuts to act as lock nuts. There was enough clearance within the receiver that the nuts would install without interfering with the bolt operation. I used Locktite to insure the screws and nuts stayed tight. Works just fine.
343989
That's a good question. I'm actually mounting it to the gun today and hope to zero it in soon, perhaps this Sunday. To me, I would assume that would be the case. My gun has only two slots where the mounts will fit.It should stay 0
1721124
Mine is bored and threaded to the standard 1/2-28 thread all the way through. I guess I never considered shooting anything but blank rounds while it was attached, since it makes the rifle cumbersome and I just want to have fun launching golf balls. I'll state what to me seems to be obvious and say NEVER attempt to launch a golf ball using a live round! Having trained quite a bit with a real suppressor, I can say it doesn't balance the same as a real one,nor would it quiet a shot, but if that's your little fantasy, have at it! My advice is to take the additional minute or so and reattach the flash hider before shooting live rounds. Mine is bored and threaded to the standard 1/2-28 thread all the way through. I guess I never considered shooting anything but blank rounds while it was attached, since it makes the rifle cumbersome and I just want to have fun launching golf balls. I'll state what to me seems to be obvious and say NEVER attempt to launch a golf ball using a live round! Having trained quite a bit with a real suppressor, I can say it doesn't balance the same as a real one,nor would it quiet a shot, but if that's your little fantasy, have at it! My advice is to take the additional minute or so and reattach the... » Read More Mine is bored and threaded to the standard 1/2-28 thread all the way through. I guess I never considered shooting anything but blank rounds while it was attached, since it makes the rifle cumbersome and I just want to have fun launching golf balls. I'll state what to me seems to be obvious and say NEVER attempt to launch a golf ball using a live round! Having trained quite a bit with a real suppressor, I can say it doesn't balance the same as a real one,nor would it quiet a shot, but if that's your little fantasy, have at it! My advice is to take the additional minute or so and reattach the flash hider before shooting live rounds. « Show Less
714012
I have this installed on my Marlin 45/70 and 444 lever action rifles. They both were pre-drilled for scope mounts. The part has a lot of screw mounting holes to accomodate different receivers. Should ve mounted on a flat surface. If you're not pre-drilled a gunsmith can do that. It is working well for me.
529305
d28 and 35 are the same in my opinion in head stock and I'm sure didn;t change hole size, but since it has been drilled a bit , I have in past carefully lined the the hole with a very thin paper ,wood, etc . to just take up a bit of the slack to snug up the fit. Don't be afraid to try this for it can work and is rewarding. I honestly feel there is no lost of sound with this for you still have your bushings?? I lve the grovers and still have them in my 72 d28. It's like re-sleavieng an old piston wall Chevy Block, but easier. Best
1622716
Well Peter, it all depends on if your stock is wood or synthetic. I have a synthetic stock on mine which had an eye in the butt-stock, so I just used he quick-detach part for that. As for the short stud, it screws into the screw-in end on the end of your magazine tube. But that is if that end has been drilled and threaded. Mine was ready for the stud.
715347
I didn't. I had to get my gunsmith put mine on. They didnt fit and I wasn't going to file my slide to the extent it was going to take. All that to say he used a new set screw but the old one should work.
1639485
I wanted to mount front sight on gas block rail too, tried it, but mine sits lower than the top rail so alignment was a problem. Checked it with laser bore and way off. I have collapsible back up sight at the end of my top rail so that space is spoken for.So I mounted mine on the top rail right behind the front back up sight, rail even with the rear sight. The rear and front are fairly close together. I'm limited on rear sight location due to scope so I'm about 6" from peep hole to pin on the top rail, but they line up pretty good with laser sight. I would use for 50 yds or less. Still need to sight in with ammo but it's 4th in priority. I wanted to mount front sight on gas block rail too, tried it, but mine sits lower than the top rail so alignment was a problem. Checked it with laser bore and way off. I have collapsible back up sight at the end of my top rail so that space is spoken for.So I mounted mine on the top rail right behind the front back up sight, rail even with the rear sight. The rear and front are fairly close together. I'm limited on rear sight location due to scope so I'm about 6" from peep hole to pin on the top rail, but they line up pretty good with laser sight. I would use for 50 yds or less.... » Read More I wanted to mount front sight on gas block rail too, tried it, but mine sits lower than the top rail so alignment was a problem. Checked it with laser bore and way off. I have collapsible back up sight at the end of my top rail so that space is spoken for.So I mounted mine on the top rail right behind the front back up sight, rail even with the rear sight. The rear and front are fairly close together. I'm limited on rear sight location due to scope so I'm about 6" from peep hole to pin on the top rail, but they line up pretty good with laser sight. I would use for 50 yds or less. Still need to sight in with ammo but it's 4th in priority. « Show Less
130585
Ill say it depends. Depending on the gun and the size of the butt stock. I have three and on my Marlin 3030 no problem installing it from the butt end. I also have a Ruger M77 with the black stock and I can not get it to go over it from the butt end. Some of the issue is that the black stock is not a slick as the wood stock. As I said it depends.
876089
The rear sight takes fitting. Take your time! I used knife sharpening stones, take a little off the bottom only, try to install and repeat. You want them to be a tight fit. For the front sight there is a tiny screw compared with stock, Use tweezers to position the screw in the slide and use finger to push firmly into hole. Now you can thread a couple of turns using the sight itself. After simply use a 5mm nut driver and blue locktite to tighten. Done!