What is the optimum voltage/configuration for the 45amp mppt CC, i have 4 x 24v 250w renogy panels. i hooked them up in series pumping out in excess of 136v {from the display meter], wondering if hooking them up in parallel or series/parallel combo would optimize my harvest, my inverter is 24v and i have 2 x 200amp 12v battery connected to it. What is the optimum voltage/configuration for the 45amp mppt CC, i have 4 x 24v 250w renogy panels. i hooked them up in series pumping out in excess of 136v {from the display meter], wondering if... » Read More What is the optimum voltage/configuration for the 45amp mppt CC, i have 4 x 24v 250w renogy panels. i hooked them up in series pumping out in excess of 136v {from the display meter], wondering if hooking them up in parallel or series/parallel combo would optimize my harvest, my inverter is 24v and i have 2 x 200amp 12v battery connected to it. « Show Less
726051
you can connect them series and parallel to get output voltage of 48V. If you get a shadow on one of the panels, it will greatly decrease output. You also need to be careful of the guage and length between the CC and panels and the CC and the batteries. Voltage drop in low voltage DC is important. A wonderful resource is handybobsolar.wordpress.com.
1407051
These are 12v panels. Unless you have a 24v mppt controller they should be parallel ( suggest to a combiner box ) feeding the charge controller which maintains the battery / bank state of charge. If these are your only two panels suggest a 20 amp (minimum) charge controller.
616969
This is why I hooked my 520 watts of panels in series so you halve the amperage. I can add another 2 panels in the future and still keep it under 30 amps. Remember too that the charge controller can charge a normal 12v battery bank, that's what mine is. I recommend making a 24v panel setup.
703998
Inverter choosing is not only a money matter, it's also about consumption, and potential growth. You 95 watts solar X 5hr, is what we use on an average day harvest. Might run one tv for five or six hours. You loosing the solar charging war. your banking 2760 watts 1380 @ 50 percent harvesting 475 watt and when in full rv use you'll use a lot more than you harvest. Why not just but a couple cigarette lighter 150w or 300w inverters?
1920938
The Sunforce 60032 is specified to handle up to 25 V input. With PWM, the max input voltage will reach the VOC of the panel between charging pulses which will exceed the 25 V max by a substantial amount and will probably destroy the regulator. As for bigger, not sure what you mean. Bigger to me means more power but you seem to be worried more about the VOC from the solar array. If you are charging 12 V nominal batteries with your array, I think you have the wrong array. I would guess that your array is designed for 24 V battery banks not 12 V. If you are using a 24 V battery bank then you need a different regulator. If you are using 12 V batteries then you need a different solar array. The Sunforce 60032 is specified to handle up to 25 V input. With PWM, the max input voltage will reach the VOC of the panel between charging pulses which will exceed the 25 V max by a substantial amount and will probably destroy the regulator. As for bigger, not sure what you mean. Bigger to me means more power but you seem to be worried more about the VOC from the solar array. If you are charging 12 V nominal batteries with your array, I think you have the wrong array. I would guess that your array is designed for 24 V battery banks not 12 V. If you are using a 24 V battery bank then you... » Read More The Sunforce 60032 is specified to handle up to 25 V input. With PWM, the max input voltage will reach the VOC of the panel between charging pulses which will exceed the 25 V max by a substantial amount and will probably destroy the regulator. As for bigger, not sure what you mean. Bigger to me means more power but you seem to be worried more about the VOC from the solar array. If you are charging 12 V nominal batteries with your array, I think you have the wrong array. I would guess that your array is designed for 24 V battery banks not 12 V. If you are using a 24 V battery bank then you need a different regulator. If you are using 12 V batteries then you need a different solar array. « Show Less
757179
My manual isn't handy, and I don't think it's very specific anyway. I believe that the unit is adjusting for MPPT when the light is blinking. As the power fluctuates from clouds passing over etc., the inverter has to hunt for the best power transfer. I have two 12 volt solar panels connected in parallel because they have different Watt ratings (50 & 100 watts), but I think that the inverter prefers 24 volts, and the MPPT function may be running on minimal voltage. I plan to add another 100 watt, 12 volt panel in series, and either remove the 50 watt parallel connected panel or add another 50 watt panel connected in parallel to the second 100 watt panel so that the there are matched parallel connected sets connected in series. By the way, I monitor power output, and the inverter is producing power when light is blinking. The 150 watt parallel connected panels only produce about 91 watts AC at full sun (light blinks very seldom with full sun). The DC values are 6.8A at 15 VDC (102W), so there is some loss in the inverter. I hope to achieve better efficiency with a 24V configuration.
2276991
Don't know why someone said only use with 2 to 3 panels at the most -- these adapters are obviously meant to connect 4 panels into a single output cable. What really counts with a solar panel is the maximum amps of current it will put out -- rating a panel in watts is just a convenient marketing term, since most people think they know what "watts" are because we've all changed a light bulb. But "watts" is simply what you get when you multiply a panel's maximum volts by its maximum amps. The seller of these adapter cables specified their amp carrying capacity in another answer and said: The adapter has four input cables and a single, thicker combined output cable with its copper conductor diameter measuring 3.42 mm (equivalent to a gauge 10 AWG), rated to carry 40 amps by the very conservative NEC - National Electrical Code, which is used for all residential building codes in the United States. Assuming the seller measured the diameter of the copper conductor correctly, then the limiting factor is the 40 amps of combined current the output cable can handle. So you could connect 4 panels to this adapter, each with a maximum output of 10 amps, and safely have a total combined current of 40 amps running through the output cable. Someday we may have consumer solar panels which output more than 10 amps, but the most you will see any panel put out right now is 3 to 8 amps. This 4-into-1 adapter cable was designed to do a specific job and seems perfectly capable of doing it. Of course, you would have to be sure that whatever cable or device you plugged the output cable into was also able to handle the maximum combined amps that your 4 connected panels would be producing.
883033
You should look at running 2 - possible 3 100 watt panels, if an upgrade for future look at 10 gauge panel wire, it seems your running 12 volt, but your inverter and charger will depend. I've got a 40 amp 12/24 charger but batteries will run at 12 bought in a kit with 6 100 watt panels but told to only run 5 as my 60 amp also takes 1600 watts if at 24, but running at 12 so 800 watts mix up and I was sent a 12 both are mppt, you can probably run 5-6 100 watts if you have 2/ 25 amps combined, if not mppt they will keep charging but at a lower rate will destroy your batteries if not in use all the time, go with 10 gauge wire you will be happier. You should look at running 2 - possible 3 100 watt panels, if an upgrade for future look at 10 gauge panel wire, it seems your running 12 volt, but your inverter and charger will depend. I've got a 40 amp 12/24 charger but batteries will run at 12 bought in a kit with 6 100 watt panels but told to only run 5 as my 60 amp also takes 1600 watts if at 24, but running at 12 so 800 watts mix up and I was sent a 12 both are mppt, you can probably run 5-6 100 watts if you have 2/ 25 amps combined, if not mppt they will keep charging but at a lower rate will destroy your batteries if not in use all... » Read More You should look at running 2 - possible 3 100 watt panels, if an upgrade for future look at 10 gauge panel wire, it seems your running 12 volt, but your inverter and charger will depend. I've got a 40 amp 12/24 charger but batteries will run at 12 bought in a kit with 6 100 watt panels but told to only run 5 as my 60 amp also takes 1600 watts if at 24, but running at 12 so 800 watts mix up and I was sent a 12 both are mppt, you can probably run 5-6 100 watts if you have 2/ 25 amps combined, if not mppt they will keep charging but at a lower rate will destroy your batteries if not in use all the time, go with 10 gauge wire you will be happier. « Show Less
852803
ohm's law says 8.333333 etc. But most 12 volt solar panels are actually operating at a higher voltage than 12 because of the need to charge a 12v system you need a higher voltage my charge controller doesn't really start till 14.4, I'm going with the average 5.0-5.5 weather, wiring distance, number of connections can change the number. since my smaller charge controller is 30 amp. I would stay at 5 panels max. with a hefty diverter load. and if you have multiple panels how you wire them(parallel or in series) can be a big difference too.
1258375
I'm using this controller to charge a bank of 4 12 volt batteries and my solar panel is rated at 30 watts and 17.5 volts. It seems to be working fine but I don't know if the controller lists any maximum input voltage or not. One would think it would be capable of handling a wide range of voltage just because of the nature of most solar panels but that is simple logic and simple logic doesn't always apply.
516108
You might mean 3215rn? Either one according to the directions/profile accept (I believe automatically) 12 or 24 volts. Going to 36 volts might either fry the unit or just cause it to shut down. I have a 12 volt system with my panels (small groups of them) wired in parallel. Because my panels are 2 types of differing specs, they feed into 4 separate controllers. This is done to not come close to overloading any controller. 2 of my controllers are MPPT, 2 are PWM. I own a Tracer 2215rn and a Tracer 4210. The PWMs are Windy Nation 30 amp and a Misol 50 amp. Returning to your question, I looked on amazon and found this to to handle 36 volts:Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 Tristar Mppt 60 Ampgood luck You might mean 3215rn? Either one according to the directions/profile accept (I believe automatically) 12 or 24 volts. Going to 36 volts might either fry the unit or just cause it to shut down. I have a 12 volt system with my panels (small groups of them) wired in parallel. Because my panels are 2 types of differing specs, they feed into 4 separate controllers. This is done to not come close to overloading any controller. 2 of my controllers are MPPT, 2 are PWM. I own a Tracer 2215rn and a Tracer 4210. The PWMs are Windy Nation 30 amp and a Misol 50 amp. Returning to your question, I looked... » Read More You might mean 3215rn? Either one according to the directions/profile accept (I believe automatically) 12 or 24 volts. Going to 36 volts might either fry the unit or just cause it to shut down. I have a 12 volt system with my panels (small groups of them) wired in parallel. Because my panels are 2 types of differing specs, they feed into 4 separate controllers. This is done to not come close to overloading any controller. 2 of my controllers are MPPT, 2 are PWM. I own a Tracer 2215rn and a Tracer 4210. The PWMs are Windy Nation 30 amp and a Misol 50 amp. Returning to your question, I looked on amazon and found this to to handle 36 volts:Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 Tristar Mppt 60 Ampgood luck « Show Less
1581549
I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your... » Read More I just reviewed the pictures you have online for your solar panel setup. I have the following suggestions. Its hard to tell how the meter is wired but you may want to check the wiring with the online diagram. I'd recommend moving your battery setup to a less flammable location. The way you are charging all your 12V parallel batteries does not allow for balanced charging so any one of your parallel sets could get out of balance, be overcharged and explode. Look up "thermal runaway". You should probably have some type of temperature monitor on you system or just may sure your batteries stay cool when charging/discharging. Good luck. « Show Less
243040
Frank, i have a Renogy catalog on front of me and don't see a 350 panel. This must be something new. And by 30amp charge controller I assume a PWM charge controller. Your panel can be 12 or 24v not both, unless this is something really new. You might try one of the solar forums or email Renogy support. Don't call tech support because i tried. Don't. Ok? Try Northern Arizona wind&sun or midnite solar forums. Also midnite solar has videos on youtube about everything. You should be able to charge a 12v battery with a 12v panel and charge controller-period. Unless the battery is no good. Put a voltmeter at the output of panel then the output of charge controller. Good luck.
232356
The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and charge controller. The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and... » Read More The safest way for both your equipment and your battery is to always use a charge controller. We have about 20 of these panels in use with MPPT type charge controllers purchased off eBay for about $10 each and they work great. These panels won't, however, keep up with a very big electric load. We use 9 amp-hour batteries with a continuous load of just under 100 milliamps, and with these solar panels our load stays powered an average of 12 hours per day (which is all we need). It's important to do the math to properly match your load requirements with a large enough solar panel, battery and charge controller. « Show Less
616968
Their book specifies Max PV input power 12V/390W or 24V/780W. My PV output is max 18V at 21A. That is 378W (18 x 21 = 378) and does not exceeded their specs so I don't have any experience as far as exceeding the books specs. Going from a 12V to a 24V PV system will double your wattage without increasing your amperage however, in order to use that increased wattage without exceeding the 30A output current, you would also need to change to a 24V battery system. The output is rated at 30A regardless of the input voltage or amperage or battery voltage.
752590
it really will depend on the specs from the panels you choose but i would say if they are similar to something like the renogy 100 watt panels you could run at least four for sure and possibly more depending on the actual output from each panel. if i was running more than 400 watts of panels i would probably start looking at some of the mppt charge controllers so you can get the most out of your system.
409642
If you are using 4 panels with this kit it only uses a 20 amp controller. You must be using a 24v battery bank to use up to 400 watts. Can you explain your situation a little more? We are a bit confused with what setup you have. Thank you. AW