How much am I suppose to be sanding? I took some 220 grit and then 400. The 400 felt like it was sliding on glass. Also I have an etching design on the bottom of the tub that is lots of circles. Is that a problem? How much am I suppose to be sanding? I took some 220 grit and then 400. The 400 felt like it was sliding on glass. Also I have an etching design on the bottom of the tub that is lots of circles. Is... » Read More How much am I suppose to be sanding? I took some 220 grit and then 400. The 400 felt like it was sliding on glass. Also I have an etching design on the bottom of the tub that is lots of circles. Is that a problem? « Show Less
1326240
I've never used sandpaper smoother than 120 grit for ANYTHING. If you have to rough up a surface, especially one as hard as ceramic tile, I would think you'd have to start with an 80 grit, then go to a 120 to smooth it out. Another poster said he used the same rougher grits and that Rustoleum gave him free product because their directions were so vague (which caused his first try to fail from the paint bubbling). You have to remove all the gloss, not just rough it up, if you want it to adhere for years. As long as your circular design is not slick and glossy, and is a part of the tub itself (and not a stick-on like caulk), then it should cover well. I've never used sandpaper smoother than 120 grit for ANYTHING. If you have to rough up a surface, especially one as hard as ceramic tile, I would think you'd have to start with an 80 grit, then go to a 120 to smooth it out. Another poster said he used the same rougher grits and that Rustoleum gave him free product because their directions were so vague (which caused his first try to fail from the paint bubbling). You have to remove all the gloss, not just rough it up, if you want it to adhere for years. As long as your circular design is not slick and glossy, and is a part of the tub itself... » Read More I've never used sandpaper smoother than 120 grit for ANYTHING. If you have to rough up a surface, especially one as hard as ceramic tile, I would think you'd have to start with an 80 grit, then go to a 120 to smooth it out. Another poster said he used the same rougher grits and that Rustoleum gave him free product because their directions were so vague (which caused his first try to fail from the paint bubbling). You have to remove all the gloss, not just rough it up, if you want it to adhere for years. As long as your circular design is not slick and glossy, and is a part of the tub itself (and not a stick-on like caulk), then it should cover well. « Show Less
1326241
The sand paper will clean the glaze on the tub and roughen it up for the paint to adhere , the sanding will take a little time to do for best results. Good luck.
1326242
I followed the instructions from a DIY web site, I only sanded the tub one time with 220 and a second time with 400. Then I cleaned the tub with Lime away using a scrubbing pad. This gave me a good surface to work with. Don't know about the design my tub is plain.
555955
I use a 300 & 600 grit stone before I use this and am very pleased with the results. I hope that helps.
1606290
I recommend the 100 grit and 150 grit as the paper wears easy, I use 100 grit to sand edges of seams and when it wears down run the center of the seams that you have drywall finished. you want to let the machine do all the work with little pressure, keep the head moving as to not get swirles in the seems, 150 is ok but after a room with cielings and walls you are pretty much just buffing, you can tell by the slight shine on the seems, time to change paper.
1770304
when i polish the counters they become VERY smooth and thus slippery...i find this to be an indication of a good uniform polish....this SHOULD be expected however...i presume that the steps are not smooth like my counters and thus would not have the same issue.
1816321
hey delores, i bought this kit and for the money was great... i don't know how large or small you are going with them but the spaces between the grit might be too great if your pieces are quarter size or smaller! i have no doubt it will polish, just don't know your process. any more questions i'll try to answer, mike
2242019
I thought I just answered this question. This would be the way to go about your sanding job. Good luck...
1659116
I use norton waterstones going from 1000-&gt;4000-&gt;8000g It takes a while to get the touch down though if you aren't used to sharpening blades (I am a woodworker.) If the nicks are deep you might be better off sending it out to be sharpened. Stainless is a difficult metal to really put a hone on in the first place so the 1000g is necessary to remove significant metal. The 4000g basically tunes the edge you generate with the 1000g and the 8000 removes burrs and puts on a polish. Once done, I will touch up occasionally on the 8k, every so often hitting it with the 4k first.
416438
Hi, My contractor used "standard" sheet rock screen, perhaps equal to 180 grit. Even using extension pole, he was able to keep a smooth surface; no gouges anywhere. As I recall his regular sanding head (not the heavy duty Sand & Kleen head) had the same amount of padding. Sorry, I'm no help. Good luck with your project.
1661419
Hi Dee, I'm just seeing this question now. The other comments are correct, there shouldn't be any grittiness. It should be smooth and creamy. Your jar may have been subjected to heat during shipping. Please email me (if you haven't already) and I'll send you a replacement jar right away. Kenny CEO Christina Moss Naturals
295422
Tina, I'm not a pro but I would expect different absorption rates giving you a blotchy finish. If your other option is to sand, why not try a small area and if I'm right and you then have to sand, what have you lost?
1497790
Like the others have said, mine is a full flat grind. The only thing I'm not really that crazy about is the finish--it has a feel similar to sand paper. I'm new to this kind of finish, so I'm not truly sure what the advantages of this are. You can always sand it down with fine grit sand paper, or remove it with some paint stripper if you so desire.
594573
Mine was something like 120 grit sandpaper. Pretty abrasive. You can strike a match on it easily.
1665276
Just use about 3 tablespoons of grit. When you move on to the next phase of polishing, just rinse out the rocks and the grit....make sure you put your rocks through all the phases of the grit polishing...if you try and skip a step then you rocks will not come out as you would like to have them..
522369
I sanded and polished the earrings i made from it. I would say just make sure you give it ample time to cure and harden before sanding and use at least 600 grit paper. Anything more rough will cut into it pretty fast.
963255
It depends on how polished you want the tool to be. Obviously 1000 grit is not 8000 so if you want that refinement the answer is no. However, personally I used to use aluminum oxide sand paper on a 3/8" piece of glass to sharpen chisles, plane irons, gouges, etc. finishing at about 320 grit. To me it was good enough for bench chisels and carving tools. At 1000 grit, the diamond stone is way better and it cuts in a fraction of the time. I tend to want to be practical at the quality of a cutting edge and not at the expense of time. I can sharpen a bench chisel in about 5 minutes with the diamond stone. I can't come close to that with water stones. They are too slow for me. It depends on how polished you want the tool to be. Obviously 1000 grit is not 8000 so if you want that refinement the answer is no. However, personally I used to use aluminum oxide sand paper on a 3/8" piece of glass to sharpen chisles, plane irons, gouges, etc. finishing at about 320 grit. To me it was good enough for bench chisels and carving tools. At 1000 grit, the diamond stone is way better and it cuts in a fraction of the time. I tend to want to be practical at the quality of a cutting edge and not at the expense of time. I can sharpen a bench chisel in about 5 minutes with the... » Read More It depends on how polished you want the tool to be. Obviously 1000 grit is not 8000 so if you want that refinement the answer is no. However, personally I used to use aluminum oxide sand paper on a 3/8" piece of glass to sharpen chisles, plane irons, gouges, etc. finishing at about 320 grit. To me it was good enough for bench chisels and carving tools. At 1000 grit, the diamond stone is way better and it cuts in a fraction of the time. I tend to want to be practical at the quality of a cutting edge and not at the expense of time. I can sharpen a bench chisel in about 5 minutes with the diamond stone. I can't come close to that with water stones. They are too slow for me. « Show Less
1607175
Correction: Use 120 Grit sandpaper...not 10 grit - my phone created a typo!
177540
I set my dremel at max speed with glass and drill bit tip under water with some grinder coolant added. This is go keep the drill bit cool. The water also helps to reduce vibration. Remember go slow let the weight of the unit do the work. I have found with my drill press set up I am able to back the drill bit off and let it cool a second or two also. You will also some glass will seem to be harder than others and will require even slower drilling, red comes to mind. Just take your time.