Can these pieces be finished with danish or tung oil?
1347314
I'd say so. They are completely unfinished and could easily hold an oil or stain.Hope that is helpful.
1347315
I'd say so. They are completely unfinished and could easily hold an oil or stain. Hope that is helpful.
1347316
Yes, but there's no point. They constantly jostle around in the bag and if you play often they constantly bang into each other. It's not really a display item... if you want to you can oil or even stain them but I recommend just leaving then as is.
1735474
I cut the first two coats with mineral spirits by 50%. After that, straight tung oil. Depending on the wood, you may cut it the whole time.
688405
No! Do NOT use oil with this type of stone! You will ruin it. They are designed to be used with water. Just, soak the stone, for a few minutes, in clean water and then add a sprinkle of water every few strokes as you are sharpening to wash the swarf from the surface of the stone. I noticed the sharpening oil advertised with this, and it is misleading. I use these stones with my hand planes and chisels, etc for woodworking and you cannot get a better edge than with a water stone. You can quite literally get a mirror finish if you go to 6000 grit or finer. The only drawback is the stones need to be flattened occasionally. No! Do NOT use oil with this type of stone! You will ruin it. They are designed to be used with water. Just, soak the stone, for a few minutes, in clean water and then add a sprinkle of water every few strokes as you are sharpening to wash the swarf from the surface of the stone. I noticed the sharpening oil advertised with this, and it is misleading. I use these stones with my hand planes and chisels, etc for woodworking and you cannot get a better edge than with a water stone. You can quite literally get a mirror finish if you go to 6000 grit or finer. The only drawback is the... » Read More No! Do NOT use oil with this type of stone! You will ruin it. They are designed to be used with water. Just, soak the stone, for a few minutes, in clean water and then add a sprinkle of water every few strokes as you are sharpening to wash the swarf from the surface of the stone. I noticed the sharpening oil advertised with this, and it is misleading. I use these stones with my hand planes and chisels, etc for woodworking and you cannot get a better edge than with a water stone. You can quite literally get a mirror finish if you go to 6000 grit or finer. The only drawback is the stones need to be flattened occasionally. « Show Less
25373
Don't know, the piece I cleaned didn't have grease or oil stains. I used it to remove the gray patina that happens to teak when left out in the elements!
726933
Unsure. I still like Formby's and 0000 steel wool to dissolve the finish, along with wax & grime.
1823855
This product purportedly contains "some" tung oil. Tung oil in its pure state is not a very durable finish. It is almost always mixed with other oils to create a "hand rubbed" finish. Formby's is a "wiping varnish" which, like most rubbed finishes, needs multiple coats to build up a real gloss". I use it for small "hand art" carvings as it has a nice feel once the 5th coat has dried. The more coats you do above that will just enhance the gloss and the hand feel of the object. I don't recommend this for surfaces that will be getting a lot of use, as it is just not meant as that kind of protection. This product purportedly contains "some" tung oil. Tung oil in its pure state is not a very durable finish. It is almost always mixed with other oils to create a "hand rubbed" finish. Formby's is a "wiping varnish" which, like most rubbed finishes, needs multiple coats to build up a real gloss". I use it for small "hand art" carvings as it has a nice feel once the 5th coat has dried. The more coats you do above that will just enhance the gloss and the hand feel of the object. I don't recommend this for surfaces that will be getting a lot of use,... » Read More This product purportedly contains "some" tung oil. Tung oil in its pure state is not a very durable finish. It is almost always mixed with other oils to create a "hand rubbed" finish. Formby's is a "wiping varnish" which, like most rubbed finishes, needs multiple coats to build up a real gloss". I use it for small "hand art" carvings as it has a nice feel once the 5th coat has dried. The more coats you do above that will just enhance the gloss and the hand feel of the object. I don't recommend this for surfaces that will be getting a lot of use, as it is just not meant as that kind of protection. « Show Less
1568412
We use melted butter or safflower oil to prevent Ebleskivers from sticking to the Danish Ebleskivers pan!Delicious!
787808
Yes, I have cut a few of them for built in fitting. I finish with Watco Butcher block finnish. Food Safe.
1582470
I would not use oil.. just soak in water for bout ten minutes, then add a lil to the top while using ..oil soaks in and cause metal filings to inbed in to the stone & won't sharpen as well..
1936367
Yes, tung oil can be used on eucalyptus wood. Which is close to teak wood in its properties. This product is named teak oil because it's to be used on teak furniture. It is not actually oil from teak but rather from tung. Teak oil protects better from rain whereas Tung oil will protect better from sun.
1823851
Formby's is a blend. The label reads, "Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a high quality varnish made from a balanced blend of Tung Oil and other fine penetrating oils. Unlike other varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs, Formby's Tung Oil Finish penetrates wood, providing protection from the inside out." Also on the label, "it contains Aliphatic Hydrocarbons". This means it needs ventilation, and I really does. Also on the label it says that you should "not use it on any other finishes except on other penetrating oils". In other words not on painted surfaces, or shellacs, lacquers or finishes that just lay on the surface of wood, because a penetrating oil could not penetrate thru it. Formby's is a blend. The label reads, "Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a high quality varnish made from a balanced blend of Tung Oil and other fine penetrating oils. Unlike other varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs, Formby's Tung Oil Finish penetrates wood, providing protection from the inside out." Also on the label, "it contains Aliphatic Hydrocarbons". This means it needs ventilation, and I really does. Also on the label it says that you should "not use it on any other finishes except on other penetrating oils". In other words not on painted surfaces, or shellacs,... » Read More Formby's is a blend. The label reads, "Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a high quality varnish made from a balanced blend of Tung Oil and other fine penetrating oils. Unlike other varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs, Formby's Tung Oil Finish penetrates wood, providing protection from the inside out." Also on the label, "it contains Aliphatic Hydrocarbons". This means it needs ventilation, and I really does. Also on the label it says that you should "not use it on any other finishes except on other penetrating oils". In other words not on painted surfaces, or shellacs, lacquers or finishes that just lay on the surface of wood, because a penetrating oil could not penetrate thru it. « Show Less
395501
It is a very durable and good looking finish. Our end-grain cutting boards have really held up well. As for wooden bowls it really depends one how much wear you place upon the finish day in and day out. I would go with this or 100% Pure Tung Oil and some short of food safe wax finish. If you go with salad bowl finish route---make sure you wait a minimum of 72 hours for the product to cure.
2193527
You can if you want to put that much oil in it. Personally, I would be hesitant. A wok doesn't have a very large base of support and can tip easily. I wouldn't want one full of hot oil on my stove. I would deep fry in a dutch oven and then transfer to the wok for finishing.
987310
You should use plastic or glassware to mix and use....never anything metallic as it interferes with the product....use plastic or glass..wood...only...NO METALS.
1993424
I'm sure you're talking about thinning the tung oil with the solvent when you say cut it. It will still be fairly thick. I just used a two inch sponge brush to apply and I did not wipe it at all. A little goes quite a long way if you wipe it with a rag you'll just absorb it into the rag and ultimately waste it. I highly recommend using the real milk paint solvent if that's not what you had in mind. The people at Real Milk Paint can easily be found online for advice.
1199190
Yes we can ship to Denmark. Please beware of any restrictions in your area. The cost of the three knives is depending on the knives that you choose.
1671214
Hi Gail, a 50/50 mix of tung oil and citrus solvent has worked best for us. Best of luck!