mounting a stack dado: the arbor on the 4000 saw is short... will not accept a 3/4" wide dado... apparently there's a fix for this... anyone know what it is?
1356444
You are correct about the short arbor. Many of my dados are cut to 3/4". I simply omit the stabilizer disc and put the nut right against the blade. It was a little freaky at first but I'm used to it now as it seems to work fine. Safety wise there does not appear to be an issue. What else is there to do?
385790
Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today, I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the router you can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth. If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'll find it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power to use the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shims to cut the dimension you desire Martin
844213
Yes, a set of dado blades will fit on this saw. You will need to make a modified throat plate, as with any saw using a dado set. Also, if using the full stack, you will need to leave the washer off due to the arbor length. Just tighten the nut securely. This is also a common thing you run into with many table saws when using a dado set of blades.
1991496
I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced... » Read More I found that on my Craftsman table saw the outermost blade rested wholly on the threaded portion of the arbor the blades mount on. This threaded area is slightly smaller in diameter than the unthreaded portion of the arbor allowing the outermost blade to rest slightly offset from the centerline of the arbor. This effectively increases its diameter causing it to cut deeper leaving an "uneven base." I resolved the problem by using a single wrapping of aluminum tape (approx. .003") around the threads under the outer blade. The aluminum tape is soft and may need to be replaced periodically to maintain the blade's tight fit on the shaft. « Show Less
1417406
Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through... » Read More Jack: I have my table saw mounted on a Hi-Lo folding stand (Porter Cable stand, I think). I made a base for the Steel City planer out of 3/4" plywood and put two 3/4" runners under it which exactly match the miter slots in the table saw top. I then just place the planer on top of the saw (in it's low position) and the runners and weight of the planer hold it very stable. I like this combo, since I'm able to remove and stow it when not in use (I have s small shop!). I saw the other comment and it appears mine was not the first to be used this way! I run 6' and 8' boards through without issue. Bill « Show Less
197894
The short answer is I don't know whether it will fit your Ryobi saw. I'm using a Ridgid TS3650 10" table saw, which is the saw for which the dado insert was made, with a Freud SD608 dado set capable of cutting dados up to 13/16" wide. The insert is about 3.75" wide, 13 16/16" long (excluding the tab at the out-feed, non-keyhole end) and 3/8" thick. The blade opening is just over 1 1/4" wide by 8" long, centered end to end, and located on the left side of the insert (from the in-feed end) with the right edge of the opening about 3/16" to the right of the centerline. (The photo shows the insert with the right in-feed end at the top.) Also, the are four Alan head leveling screws, which can be seen in the photo. I suggest you compare the photo and the foregoing description and dimensions to your regular insert. If they match, it likely will work. Hope that helps.
493471
Craftsman has a dado insert for your saw. I can not speak if other brands will interchange. You will like this product.
986249
I use mine with a Freud Dado set every week or so. You have to read the instructions carefully and reverse the arbor washers for the larger sizes I think I remember seeing that one should not use this saw with one of those adjustable "dial in a width" sets.
1467992
There aren't any. The reason for this is because each table saw is different so providing instructions would be a generalization at best, unsafe at worst. Use is pretty simple - you take off your arbor bolt and remove the current saw blade. You put the dado set's blade on first taking note of the direction the saw turns. Then you add as many of the variable width chippers to create the width you want. Then add in the other dado blade on the arbor bolt, bolt it all in place and away you go. Please take note that many table saws have arbor bolt length restrictions so you may not get the full width you want. I cannot do 3/4" dado's on my table saw despite having this kit for example. Finally - please ensure you have a table saw insert specifically for dados. The alternative is to remove your insert which is unsafe. Most manufacturers sell aftermarket table inserts for a reasonable price...mine cost me $18 or so. Good luck!
517455
Trini, I would believe John Cottingham's review, since he has one. The mounting system is very accomodating. The saw only needs four bolt holes in its base. The mounting bars on the stand can be placed anywhere along the center rail to accomodate the width of the saw base and the length of the bars can handle most depths of the saw since the attachments are in slotted holes. The rear mounting holes also have some play sideways so the rails can handle a saw that has different spacings of the rear and front bolt holes. I have a 12" DeWalt saw and this stand makes hauling it around real sweet. Also, setup for operation is really quick. The laser guide should not be an issue. Trini, I would believe John Cottingham's review, since he has one. The mounting system is very accomodating. The saw only needs four bolt holes in its base. The mounting bars on the stand can be placed anywhere along the center rail to accomodate the width of the saw base and the length of the bars can handle most depths of the saw since the attachments are in slotted holes. The rear mounting holes also have some play sideways so the rails can handle a saw that has different spacings of the rear and front bolt holes. I have a 12" DeWalt saw and this stand makes hauling it around real... » Read More Trini, I would believe John Cottingham's review, since he has one. The mounting system is very accomodating. The saw only needs four bolt holes in its base. The mounting bars on the stand can be placed anywhere along the center rail to accomodate the width of the saw base and the length of the bars can handle most depths of the saw since the attachments are in slotted holes. The rear mounting holes also have some play sideways so the rails can handle a saw that has different spacings of the rear and front bolt holes. I have a 12" DeWalt saw and this stand makes hauling it around real sweet. Also, setup for operation is really quick. The laser guide should not be an issue. « Show Less
947197
The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material... » Read More The guide bar is 3/4", so if your machines have that size miter slot, you're good to go. I have 1" slots in my cabinet saw, but luckily the two set screws in the bar can take that out. Unfortunately the thickness of the bar was too much and I had to get rid of the t-slot circles and grind a 1/16" off to get it to sit flush with the surface. Check the minimum clearance from the blade to the face of the tenon jig. There's a very slim chance it would be too tight, but it's always better to be safe. If you can't get it tight enough to the shoulder, screw a flat piece of material to the face to bring it within reason. « Show Less
735717
No...and yes. This box joint cutter WILL fit this saw - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E It will only cut 3/8" at a time, but you can always widen that. So it does approximate using a dado blade
1502450
I use this plate for my dado cuts on my Delta Unisaw. To cut the hole into the plate, I installed all the dado stacked blades and adjusted the blade full down. Then installed the plate into the slot and leveled it up with the height adjustment screws. To hold the plate into the slot, I clamped a long 1x4 over it. Then used the blade height adjustment and raised the blade into the plate and let the dado set cut its own slot. I just use the one plate for all my dado cuts. Never saw the need to have multiple plates. The plate is a composite material that carbide cuts very well. Works like a champ! I use this plate for my dado cuts on my Delta Unisaw. To cut the hole into the plate, I installed all the dado stacked blades and adjusted the blade full down. Then installed the plate into the slot and leveled it up with the height adjustment screws. To hold the plate into the slot, I clamped a long 1x4 over it. Then used the blade height adjustment and raised the blade into the plate and let the dado set cut its own slot. I just use the one plate for all my dado cuts. Never saw the need to have multiple plates. The plate is a composite material that carbide cuts very well. Works like a... » Read More I use this plate for my dado cuts on my Delta Unisaw. To cut the hole into the plate, I installed all the dado stacked blades and adjusted the blade full down. Then installed the plate into the slot and leveled it up with the height adjustment screws. To hold the plate into the slot, I clamped a long 1x4 over it. Then used the blade height adjustment and raised the blade into the plate and let the dado set cut its own slot. I just use the one plate for all my dado cuts. Never saw the need to have multiple plates. The plate is a composite material that carbide cuts very well. Works like a champ! « Show Less
527724
Buy some 5/8" washers to place on the arbor then set the blade(s) against the washer to prevent the ridge. Had the same issue...solved it right away!
1951680
No expertise here... I'm a woodworker. But I find the saw tight, sufficiently powered for the small blade and easy to use. My guess is that you may want to build a jig for exact positioning. Hope this is of some helpDLH
986250
It will take a stack dado but not the full set. I believe it will take up to 3/4", and that is about it. I'm on my second Bosh table saw as the first motor just stopped working after about 2 years.
513423
I have successfully used the 10 inch stacked dado in my Sear 10 inch table saw. The weight and large cut is hard on the motor. I take only shallow cuts and go slowly to minimize the impact on the saw motor. I suggest that you use an 8 inch set.