how do you line up the holes from back to front to keep the shelf even and not teater
1335281
The bracket that has the hole guide has an attachment which uses the edge of the board as a guide. This sets the distance so that it is consistent. However, it is a fixed distance.
1335282
The set comes with an "edge" that attaches to one side or the other of the jig. The edge will keep the drilled holes consistent distance from the edge of the shelf upright. After insuring that the jig was positioned correctly I clamped it in place with the clamp from my Kreg pocket hole set. The edge can be attached either to the left side or the right side for either deep or shallow pin hole locations (from the edge).
1335283
I used a framing square along with my tape measure, to align them from front to back and also died to side.
1335284
After re-reading your original question I realize you are asking about where the pin holes will start from the bottom or top. I used a "ledger board" (about 5" wide) clamped (square & true) at the bottom of my upright to start the first holes consistent from the bottom. After the first set of holes are drilled, the jig will keep you consistent.
1335285
There is no mechanism per se to do that. However, if the cabinet is level and square, you can rest the jig on the floor of the cabinet. You do not need shelf holes that low, usually, but you can drill a single shelf hole using the top hole of the jig and then move the jig up and insert the alignment pin and drill another hole. Those extra holes are normally fine (they look like they belong there). Of course, you do that all around the cabinet, and then all of your holes will be aligned. You can also do the same thing from the top down.
1335286
I use a block of wood that is about six inches long, clamp it to the bottom edge, and place the jig against it. Do the same at the back to get the same spacing.
1474045
The shelves are adjustable. The holes are about 1.5 inches apart but you can use less shelves and make the space between larger. I used all the shelves and had them about 3 inches apart for shot glasses.
1651653
I have cut down this type of post to get shelving units to fit in tight spaces several times to get a specific height. In most cases you can pop out the plugs from the cut off peace with a long 1/2" dowel rod. To get the correct location to cut at place the plastic shelf support brackets on the post as a guide mark the top edge of the of the support with magic marker and cut with a hack saw. Use a fine file to smooth out any burs and insert the caps. I used a rubber mallet but a soft block of wood will do just use care not to knock the plugs down inside the tube.
724079
Try putting inexpensive silicone hot pads under it if your shelf material is that easily scratched. I have some silicone hot pad/pot holders that I bought at Savealot for $1 and these are thin enough that you could cut one into 4 small squares. I agree with the other answers though - these are really smooth on the bottom, so unless it would get a lot of shifting around or your shelf finish is very fragile, you should not have a problem.
283627
The shelf corners hang from a vertical support arm (uprights?) that has a inch or two wiggle room. They connect to a brace that must be anchored into solid wood (ceiling joists) on either end of the vertical support arm. You'll need to install bolts from the outside so the shelf cannot be so close to the wall that you can't install, and tighten the bolt. There was a series of back and forth install steps that I needed to go through before I had the shelf put up properly, but I am happy I went with this product. It looks solid and dependable. Good Luck
351829
The black pieces need to be in the groove of the metal pole before they will interlock. They won't click but do fit neatly together. The pieces are slightly tapered. They have to be facing the right way, with the thicker end facing down. The shelf will snug down over the two black pieces to hold them together.
1086750
side by side would make the shelves longer. do you mean front to back - putting one shelf in front of the other to make it deeper? If so, I suppose you could but there are no instructions for this. If it were me and I wanted to make deeper shelves I would buy 2x8's for the junction between the two brackets. this would attach the brackets together, or alternatively you could come up with some bracing elements for the sides.
307502
My guess is that is has to do with this not being a fine piece of furniture. And your assembly technique. Loosen the screws that hold the shelves, as well as the bracing. When things are still together, but you can move them around a little, put it where it needs to go. Like the kitchen. Now that it is on your level, or maybe not, surface, tighten everything back together. This should, in theory, adjust for your maybe not level floor, or the minor differences in length of the wood. I know my floor is really bad, and this helped.
1060230
I did exactly that because I did not want the four shelves together...to keep the dogs out of the lower ones. If you ask the manufacturer he will provide you with the necessary hardware (wires and hanging rod) to make two sets of two from the four shelves... he posted some pix of mine on his facebook page. The company is completely user friendly.. I turned the shelves upside down so there is a bit of a lip to keep things from falling off :)
1410716
Its very simple. You figure out the best area you want to place it. Then just slide the hangers over the top of the shelf. I love mine!
74132
I i used a drill with a phillips bit from underneath, into the ShelfLinks and thru the wood.i used a clamp to secure all of it and had it laying on the floor. The holes are predrilled in the plastic.
253474
the holes the poles slide through typically are wider on the bottom, that fit over tapered wedges on the poles. I have installed shelves upside down, but it is not as secure. you can always cut a board to fit in the bottom of the shelf, effectivly reducing the flange of the shelf wall
1063667
The shelves are supposed to go in one direction. However you can physically place them either way.
1244176
The holes are on the sides. As far as the reason(s) why, though I can only speculate as I didn't design the cabinet, I can offer these somewhat educated guesses: 1. Placing the screws in the sides takes advantage of the simple symmetry of the two sides, affording a simplified manufacturing process. 2. Ease of use- the sides are easily reachable during assembly/removal of the shelf by the user. 3. Aesthetics- by installing the shelf from the sides, the need for screws across the face of the cabinet is eliminated, maintaining a cleaner appearance. BTW, it should be noted that the shelf is NOT the full depth of the cabinet, it is about 2/3 of the full depth. The gap remains at the front of the cabinet, as the shelf sits toward the rear. I hope this helps!
2110181
It's fairly straight forward, you put the clips so that the inner raised ridges fit in the grooves, with the small end of the taper on the upper side. Then the shelf corners fit over the clips and hold it together
1638671
If I remember correctly, the instructions were more confusing than helpful. I built it by carefully looking at the picture. I assembled the top half first, which touches the wall. Fix the smallest and next to smallest shelf so that the lip part is facing the back. Then, assemble the bottom with the next three shelves in order of size (biggest at bottom). Attach the back foot. Once both halves are assembled, place the bottom half against a wall and slip the top half unto the brackets.
1773386
There are holes on the sides almost all the way down so all you would have to dois get some of the shelf pins and then the actual shelf. Should not be difficult. Bythe way we love the cabinet!