So you wire this into the first 240v 2 pole breaker in the panel. Black to each pole, white to neutral bar. or do you add a dedicated 240 breaker?
1327129
code says breaker should have one wire per terminal. It would work identically with the unit sharing a terminal, you decide.Use the one closest to the main input, usually the top most.
1327130
I used 2 110 breakers that are next to each other a black wire in each one, white wire to ground. You can use a dedicated 240 breaker if you wantbut 2 110 breakers next to each other will do the same thing. I called the seller and that the way he said to hook it up.Jay Trumbojt61@hotmail.com
1327131
I am not an electrician, I had one put mine in and I don't remember exactly what he did. Sorry. There may be instructions with it.
1327132
You can if you want, but the instructions included with the device indicate that any 240v breaker can be used.
518267
It does not need a separate circuit for the timer. I ran the 240 to the timer and (I think) 12 gauge from the timer to the water heater. I'm not qualified to answer the second question, but given the way you have to wire the timer I would guess that you can't wire safely w/o the neutral.
1709175
The breaker size depends on the wire size used going to the heater. This heater only requires 8 amps at 240 v. #14 wire with a 2 pole 15 amp breaker would work. #12 wire with a 2 pole 20 amp breaker would also work.
1545108
It sounds like you have the MAINS of the transformer series instead of parallel.. OR you have the 240V version by mistake?
265966
First, the unit won't operate unless you have an active ground connection. The instructions are poor in that they don't show the complete circuit to the light. Basically, run your power cable through the switch box to the light fixture; the black wires of the switch will be spliced into the black "hot" wire of the cable; the green wire of the switch will be connected to (but not interrupt) the ground wires of the cable. The white "neutral" wire will run only to the light - bad design in my opinion, because the switch uses ground instead of neutral to complete its control circuit, but apparently it meets electrical code or could not be marketed.
1399306
The black wires are the hot wires, the white are neutral. If you are not familiar with 110VAC, call an electrician, it will work if there is room in your wallbox for the wires.
2083348
You most likely need a switch with only black, white, & green. The red wire is hot though. With about half of the switches out there, you can wire nut the red & black to the black running to your panel. Not with the one you just got though.
937034
Generally the black is hot and white is neutral with single phase av current. With two phase such as 220 v both phases are hot in reference to neutral so black goes to one phase and red to the other. Do not connect the current meter to voltage source, only to the supplied transformer. General answer is it should not matter but I would try to make black the hot lead.
318007
You need to find the load wire. It's probably black. Find the hot wire..black to the switch black. Load wire to blue switch wire. White box wire to switch white wire. Ground the bare wire to the box.
2155689
Yes , you hook up to two breakers. One on each leg of your 220. I moved the breakers around so that I could use the toptwo breakers, closest to the incoming line.
785466
The big question is: Now that we have burnt out something inside the main unit, can we replace this unit with one that has been made for 240V? If anyone knows where we can source the main body of the machine with a 240V rating, please let me know. Thanks
351527
Hi Beth, the first thing you need to know is that having a black, white, and red wire is perfectly normal in a 240 volt circut, and this unit is designed to accomodate both a 2-wire and 3-wire install. I have installed several of these units in my shore house and all of the installations were two wire. Since in many cases a picture is worth a thousand words, copy and paste the following link into your computers browser and have a look at the pictures for both the 2-wire and 3-wire insallation. I think when you see the 3-wire installation diagram your question will be answered. I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck. https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-1917EF.pdf
2053745
Tell him you need a NEMA 6-50A outlet installed on a new 40-amp 240 volt circuit. Or just a new 40-amp 240 volt circuit if you want to hardwire the station.
1709174
To figure out the amp. draw of any appliance you divide the wattage by the voltage. In this case 2000/240 is 8.3. The breaker size needs to be at least 20% larger. FOr this heater--you would need a double pole 15 amp breaker. This is for a single heater if you're going to run multiple heaters off the same thermostat/circuit, you will need to figure them in as well and size the breaker and wiring accordingly.
2132943
This model is met to be hard wired to a breaker and there is another model that is plugged intoa 240This model is met to be hard wired to a breaker. Another model comes with a plug to be plugged into a wall plug, which makes it portable if you move. I'm sure you could add a plug to this model and it would work as long as the breaker before the plug is rated at 40 amps.
1263917
The neutral does not need to be connected. The voltage across the red and black is 240V and the white is just a center-tap on that potential, meaning the voltage between white and red (or between white and black) is 120V and this unit does not need both 240V and 120V at the same time. Be sure to cap off the unused white wire.
805970
Chris is right, I spoke with the elect who checked mine when I hooked it up. He said, not only will that not work right with the way the wire hookups are in the heater, it's against most elect codes. I would put in new breakers and wire just to make sure everything is good. You wouldn't want to fry something that's so expensive. Mine has been going for 4years now..... Still going strong.Hope this helps.