can picture quality be improved with good photo editor? I'm a serious backpacker/climber and an interested in the tough 8000 because of its durability. I am discouraged, however, by the uniformly negative reviews of the picture quality. Can these issues be resolved with a good photo editor such as Adobe Photoshop? I'd hate to lose a potentially memorable shop because of only average (or less) picture quality. Any info would be enormously appreciated. can picture quality be improved with good photo editor? I'm a serious backpacker/climber and an interested in the tough 8000 because of its durability. I am discouraged, however, by the... » Read More can picture quality be improved with good photo editor? I'm a serious backpacker/climber and an interested in the tough 8000 because of its durability. I am discouraged, however, by the uniformly negative reviews of the picture quality. Can these issues be resolved with a good photo editor such as Adobe Photoshop? I'd hate to lose a potentially memorable shop because of only average (or less) picture quality. Any info would be enormously appreciated. « Show Less
1347631
Of course you can improve your photos! That's the whole point of image editing software. Adjusting colors, sharpness, brightness, etc. are just a few things you can do. And don't be sucked in by RAW. For most people, it's highly overrated.
238224
Unfortunately not.....there are some improvements you can make if you are shooting RAW...but with a JPG you have less to work with. In short, a lousy shot is a lousy shot. If that is what your camera is giving you, time to look for a new camera (assuming of course that the individual's photo skills aren't the problem).
1425103
It's for both. If you familiarize yourself with a few of the basic things you'll use over and over again (straighten, crop, etc.), then you can use Edit mode and ignore the more complex tools until you feel you're ready to learn how to use them. The Perfectly Clear plugin can make a big difference for your photos. In Edit mode, you get to it by going to Effects -> Plugins -> Athentech Imaging -> Perfectly clear...
252022
I never had had bad quality photos with it. Besides, if the phots do happen to come out blurry or bad just use the PMB software to fix it.
1168795
When the first series Creative Suite came out, I upgraded from Photoshop to CS1. Great! What I didn't know is, I would never, ever, ever use Illustrator or the other programs. I ONLY used Photoshop. But I've been stuck because as you correctly point out, Wirtzy, you can't upgrade from a suites package back to a single program. My workaround (certainly not an option for many, many Photoshop users), is to swap downward for the latest Photoshop Elements and make much more use of Lightroom (which is an excellent photo editing program). I won't have a CMYK color palette and maybe there will come a day when that's a problem, but I use it so rarely that I just don't care to worry about it.
853644
I've used Picasa with this machine and it works very fast. It easily applies the included fixes (contrast, hue/color saturation, etc. ) with no lag. Picasa is a lot less resource intensive then photoshop though. I take pictures with a 7.1 megapixel camera - the average photo is about 3.5megs.The mousepad takes getting used to when you want drag and drop things but you get used to it.
2124491
What did you end up getting? I had the same dilemma but choose the 790 for its picture quality. It's a great camera and am very pleased with the results. I had fun with it right out of the box, but must confess I am a manual freak, so I did study it before the camera even came. www.steve-digicams.com posts reviews and sample pictures if you want more info. For me, it's a perfect little P&S; for your pocket.
504957
Note: any 'Save for web' setting in Photoshop will not guarantee that the jpg has been saved without 'progressive' setting checked - the idea behind 'progressive' is that as it loads a low-quality image can be seen that 'progressively' gets better as the rest of the file loads.Too bad Sony doesn't simply update the manual to reflect this, or change the firmware so that 'progressive' jpgs load like the others.
2012667
Thomas, I love the camera!!! It's extremely easy to transfer the videos to your PC to edit. I have found that even though the software initially permits "frame to frame" editing, it actually edits in segments on the PC. When transferring to "YouTube" I have lost the last segment, yet, I'm a novice at this. It is possible to edit on the camera directly which I have not yet tried. The camera is new to me and I wasn't yet confident enough that I may loose my videos while editing on the camera. The camera is amazing for far distance shooting, the main reason for my purchase. Hope this has been of help. cj
1704194
I don't know what kind of background you have regarding video editing software; if you're a beginner, Sony Movie Studio has a simplified mode (Which is already way more advanced and significantly more complicated than Windows Movie Maker and iMovie on the iPhone) ~ this should be sufficient for many editing needs such as putting in title cards, inserting transitions, managing different video clips/audio tracks/still images, etc. I found that Sony Movie Studio is more versatile than Pinnacle Studio 17 Plus since it comprises of multiple independent software packages that are more comprehensive in breadth and depth. Pinnacle Studio is entirely usable and the main application is easier to install/get started with but I personally prefer Movie Studio since I was disappointed with the sound-editing functions in Pinnacle. For really simple videos eg. stringing some still photos, title cards, and video snippets together, I found Pinnacle to be a little bit more intuitive. Source: I own Pinnacle Studio 17 and Sony Movie Studio 13
1960858
Yes its worked great for me. outline drawings are actually the best. color photos n stuff come out blurry usually. but yes for outlines its awesome. I'm happy with the machine. jus make sure ur outline is nice n dark. it comes out perfect every time.
1043071
It's up to your imagination in what you can do by using layering to move objects from one photo to another, or just remove objects. It's by far the best bang for the buck, make sure you get the ultimate and when you load it, do both the 32 and 64 bit version as there are many existing tools that only run on 32 bits that you can import, you can even import Adobe images. I extracted a red rose from a bush, and filled the background in black after changing the rose to soft white, came out beautiful. Best of all, there are both text and video help for the tools even on youtube. It will take time to learn and I recommend taking notes when you do something, saves effort next time you try it. Enjoy
1425105
Believe me - compared to Photoshop this is EASY to use.......once you focus on the kinds of things you want to do with it (it can do many things!), you'll probably find it more user-friendly.....I know I did!
1118343
A word about the D800. I downloaded the 20 megabite sample jpeg image files nikon provides and tried my hand at working with them in photoshop and Topaz filters. I see some color banding in the shadows, hmm? Has any one else tried working them?The other thing is that I noticed is with 36mp images at 20MB's your post processing times to slow to a crawl.
190424
Fuji has inconsistent quality control, which I found when I purchased the F10. The first camera took VERY blurry photos, the second 1/3 and the third maybe 1/5 (in default settings). Don't doubt yourself and your picture snapping skills. If you've read the manual and you are still having problems I would recommend an exchange.
1940572
I only shoot RAW, and am very pleased with it and Lightroom 4. The automatic exposure and auto white balance are generally OK to start from, but I usually make adjustments. In extreme lighting I bring down highlights and increase the light in the shadows. There is a lot of detail captured - I can often get two stops of extra information in post processing, and seldom want more than that. I don't own a DSLR, so can't make a direct comparison, but I would expect it to be similar to APS-C DSLRs. I am an amateur, and would not want to make my recommendation the basis of your decision. The dpreview NEX-6 review includes a RAW Mode page, and they have some examples you can download and examine before deciding. I only shoot RAW, and am very pleased with it and Lightroom 4. The automatic exposure and auto white balance are generally OK to start from, but I usually make adjustments. In extreme lighting I bring down highlights and increase the light in the shadows. There is a lot of detail captured - I can often get two stops of extra information in post processing, and seldom want more than that. I don't own a DSLR, so can't make a direct comparison, but I would expect it to be similar to APS-C DSLRs. I am an amateur, and would not want to make my recommendation the basis of your decision. The... » Read More I only shoot RAW, and am very pleased with it and Lightroom 4. The automatic exposure and auto white balance are generally OK to start from, but I usually make adjustments. In extreme lighting I bring down highlights and increase the light in the shadows. There is a lot of detail captured - I can often get two stops of extra information in post processing, and seldom want more than that. I don't own a DSLR, so can't make a direct comparison, but I would expect it to be similar to APS-C DSLRs. I am an amateur, and would not want to make my recommendation the basis of your decision. The dpreview NEX-6 review includes a RAW Mode page, and they have some examples you can download and examine before deciding. « Show Less
1312579
I know this is someone elses post but I am debating the same thing. I myself am looking for a high quality resolution with the crispest photos out there. I really dont care about any gps feature but whether its indoors or out I want crispness. Mostly I use it for taking photos of my toddler. Any suggestions or help?
626653
The camera has the exact same image sensor as the D80 and A100, so the 'native' image quality is the same, as you will find if you shoot RAW and process in the same converter (e.g. Adobe Camera Raw). Thus, any differences are simply in the built-in JPEG processor and its settings. What Phil Askey at DPReview.com found is that the K10D's image processor chooses to not apply that much sharpening to the image in its default 'Natural' setting. Even turning the sharpening parameter to its maximum in this mode does not produce a very sharpened image. However, the K10D also has another mode, 'Bright'. This mode boosts the saturation and sharpening to provide pleasing consumer-quality JPEGs 'out of the box'. On Pentax' cheaper cameras, 'Bright' is the default. I think Pentax expects that more serious photographers prefer a less enhanced image that's more suitable for post-processing, so that's the default mode. If you'd rather have a consumer-type bright, sharpened image, 'Bright' mode is available. As far as I can tell, 'Bright' images are comparable to out-of-the-camera JPEGs from Sony Alpha and Nikon. As to image noise, the K10D JPEG processor controls noise better than the A100 but not as much as the D80. However, it also retains more detail. From what I've seen, the K10D exceeds the A100 in JPEG quality; whether you prefer the D80 or K10D depends on your noise-handling preference. The XTi has a sensor that's a little better at ISO 1600 than the Sony sensor used by the others. However, I personally prefer the color and overall image look of the other cameras, and the build quality of all three Sony-sensor cameras is better than the XTi.