I need to use something like this for a brick etching job in the field (not in a cabinet). My understanding is that I need from 30-50PSI. Work?
1347035
I think you would need more like 50+ PSI and a fairly large amount of air, like a huge compressor that can sustain constant running. But for the money this item is well worth it.
1347036
I think i set mine between 40-60psi. You really need an air compressor with volume...not a small pancake style meant for a nailer but a full size version.
1347037
It may work. I have found that it is pretty forgiving on the pressure settings. It would depend on how deep you need to etch.
1347038
At minimum, you need 70. If not the tube is gonna have a hard time siphoning the sand.
313079
I have a large 220 v compressor but I believe a 110 would be ok. It takes the same amount of pressure as a house drywall texture gun. The included gun is basically a texture gun. With a smaller compressor you may have to take breaks at let compressor fill.
2130951
Schedule 80 PVS would be a gamble in my opinion, rated at 21 to 1200PSI. If your application is high pressure I would not trust the welds. I maybe wrong. My experiences are uses not under high pressure conditions. Not sure if this helped you or not. Best applications seems to be automotive body work.
608808
I would use this as it can do 50 amp.If you upgrade later you can still use this.You may get away with a 30 amp (PB30) but for a little more I would use this.
1658179
Just saw your more accurate question. Any compressor delivering between 60 and 100 psi will work. Another number to look for on the compressor is 4.1 to 6.9 BAR. Mikita makes a good unit.
1477107
Side of the box says 35+ gallon for "continuous use", 7-34 gallon for "intermittent use", 1-6 gallon "do not use", and 40psi min to 70psi max. Beyond that, and like most continuous run pneumatic tools, the requirements vary by performance expectations. If you have low requirements and realistic expectations, such as very small paint jobs and/or using thin paints at lower pressure, then it'll probably work. If you want to paint a house, buy/borrow a larger compressor. If it helps, here's my last project with this, painting a 14x26ft cinderblock outbuilding: On my 12 gallon (4hp, ~20 year old, mediocre worn-out condition), using heavy extra-durable exterior-grade latex + primer (not thinned) at ~60psi, it can cover about 40 sq. ft (~5x8ft) of wall before the pressure drops off noticeably, then another ~10ft with decreasing spray quality (narrower thicker spatter-y pattern) before needing to wait a few minutes for recharge. Not sure about the line pressures over that cycle, rough guesstimate maybe ~40-60psi for regular spray pattern, then ~30-40psi diminishing returns, and not usable below ~30psi. You can probably guesstimate performance by timing how long your compressor can maintain those line pressures. Final note on durability, the body is a fragile cast iron, it can last for decades or split in half on the first ~2ft drop on concrete. Hope that helps...
1294335
I have seen simular issues with my pancake compressor, 120psi is about were its set. I bought this just to shoot my 2" nails so that's all I use it for, I would say 20 percent don't set the head deep enough, but it could be the profile also. I use a spring punch from a paint supply shop and it works wonders ! Good luck hope this helps??
275842
It should work just fine. I have a Porter-Cable with 2.6 SCFM @90psi and it does a great job.
835171
I too have the exposed aggregate type driveway. I have run only one panel about 15 feet long as a test before it got cold. Had no problem with loss of stones. This with a washer rated at 2550psi. Works fine. I was concerned not enough pressure. Instructions that came with it do not list a min. pressure, only a max. of 3200 or3300 psi. I'm sold!
389446
I would think if you needed to run a drill at this pressure to provide required performance, you should be looking at a 1/2" or electric. At every plant I've worked in, house air usually runs ~90psi (at tool). Higher pressures regulated at the compressor may be needed to facilitate working pressure (to the tool), normally due to plumbing long runs, leaking or too restrictive piping/connections. But running any 3/8" hand drill at 140-150psi is going to dramatically reduce the life of the product.
533176
We use it at 425 - 450. It's stone/ceramic, so I think it would be OK since it was probably fired at a way higher temp than 600 when it was manufactured.
11056
You should be good to go as Simoniz gas PW's are 2900-3200 psi and this is rated at 4000 psi. It also has quick connect 3/8" connector if you have a quick-connect hose or you can use the screw on-type if needed so it's pretty much able to run with about any setup you throw at it. I bought a 'turbo tip' to go with mine and that thing really scrubs concrete fast if you've never tried one before.
1132974
I wouldn't recommend for this type of project, try something smaller and more precise, good luck Kimberly!
462129
I've used mine on job sites but you need a dedicated 29 Amp circuit for it.If your converting power and need an inverter I'd try to find a compressor that dies not draw so many amps cayse it will take quite a bit of start up amps from your power source
1281298
CFM is not going to be a problem, unless you're a heck of a lot faster than I was. I used 90psi (the max for my compressor) nailing red oak flooring and had no problem as long as I paid attention and made sure the nailer was tight and square to the boards.
1899467
Not sure what your project is, but for me a 1.0gl / 100psi was all I needed for mine. Nothing bigger and nothing extra.
1217980
Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when buying from Asia. Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when... » Read More Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when buying from Asia. « Show Less