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In 1895, ogden bolton jr. Registered one of the first patents for an electric bicycle in the u.s. a century later, they've become one of the most popular electric vehicles in the world. Using electricity to enhance performance, the e-bike is definitely in the current. These electric three-wheel trikes combine ergonomic design with cutting-edge mechanical engineering. A rechargeable battery powers the electric engine. The rider sits comfortably in the ergonomic seat, places his feet on the pedals, releases the parking brake, and takes off. The process begins with a water jet cutter. It uses ultra-high-pressure water and sand to cut parts out of a thin aluminum sheet. The cutter significantly enhances productivity without sacrificing precision. It can make several parts out of a single sheet of aluminum. Parts that are ready for assembly go to the cnc brake press for folding. A stopper positions the piece on the v die, where a punch comes down to fold it. A worker inspects the folded part to make sure it's ready for assembly. A cnc bender curves aluminum extrusion tubes for the frame. This machine has multidirectional bending capabilities and can make multiple bends to a single extrusion tube. The trike frame assembly process starts on a jig. Once all the tubes are in place, a welder spot-welds the aluminum brackets. He welds about 20 spots, bonding the brackets to the tubes. The tubes bear most of the load while the brackets keep the frame aligned. The worker uses an electric tig-welding torch to complete the welding. He welds at a low temperature to avoid heat deformation in the metal. A mechanic installs thermoformed recyclable abs plastic over the back frame tubes. He assembles the rear wheels, which have a seven-degree negative camber angle for better grip and handling. The mechanic mounts brake levers, gear shifters, and handle grips onto the steering bar and tightens the six-point socket nuts with an allen wrench. He applies a structural adhesive on the drop-out poles and in slots located on the front frame tubes. The adhesive provides the flexibility and strength needed to keep the drop-out poles in position. Now, the mechanic assembles the front and back frames together. The two frames connect under the seat through an integrated direction pivot and suspension system. The mechanic slips the front wheel into the drop-out poles on the frame. He uses a calibrated torque wrench to tight the wheel nut. He assembles the three-cog front cassette to the bottom bracket, then bolts on the pedal crank arm using a threaded taper pin system. Next he installs the derailleur for the nine-gear cassette and bolts it on with a lock-tight bolt. The compact drivetrain makes the trike 15% more energy-efficient than regular bicycles or tricycles. A mechanic installs the disc brake system on the front wheel electric hub and verifies that it is functioning properly. The seats are made of woven synthetic fabric wrapped around the frame and tightened with bungee elastics. He locks the removable battery pack in place with a key. A console indicates levels of electrical assistance and battery regeneration. This trike's wheel base allows it to ride on bike paths. When on the road, its width takes up more space. The design of this electric trike combines stability and safety for a secure and pleasant ride. The easiest way to treat dry skin is to spread on some skin cream. It rejuvenates the skin cells and acts as a protective barrier. This is particularly important in the winter, when cold outdoor air and indoor heating suck the moisture out of your skin. If you have dry skin, it's wise to keep a good supply of skin cream on hand. It's not just dry air that makes skin flaky and itchy. Cancer treatments can also dry out the skin, along with other medical conditions, like diabetes. The first ingredient is stearic acid. It's a wax derived from palm tree oil. The next ingredient is refined lanolin. It's blended with isopropyl myristate, a natural oil that helps soften the stearic acid. These ingredients make up what's called the oil-soluble phase of the recipe. Workers heat the stearic acid until it liquefies, then add the blend of lanolin and isopropyl myristate and keep heating. While the oil phase is heating, they prepare the water-soluble phase of the recipe. The first ingredient is glycerin derived from a vegetable source, such as corn. They heat and mix it, then add purified water. They continue heating the mixture to just below the boiling point, add a floral fragrance, then pump the oil phase into the bottom of the tank. It blends in with the water phase while naturally rising to the top. They gradually lower the temperature. This makes the mixture creamy and bright white. After an hour of mixing, the skin cream is ready. They pump it out of the mixing tank to supply tanks that feed the filling line. This company packages its skin cream in jars for body cream and tubes for hand cream. Workers unpack boxes of plastic jars and line them up on a conveyer belt that feeds the labeling machine. Each jar passes a photo-eye sensor. This sensor triggers the machines to spin the jar at the same speed as the adhesive label coming off the roll. Workers place the labeled jars onto a turntable that feeds the filling machine. Two single-file lanes each lead to three nozzles. The machine fills up to 125 jars per minute, depositing 12 ounces of skin cream into each jar. The two lanes of filled jars merge as they approach the capping machine. The caps come down a chute to the machine's carousel. A device called a timing screw correctly positions each jar to receive a lid. The lower part of the machine holds the jar steady as an arm secures the lid in place. The next station on the line applies an adhesive label onto the cap. The jars of body cream are ready for sale. This factory also packages hand cream in a tube that you can keep in your purse or pocket. A mechanical arm places the tubes on a turntable, cap side down. The bottom of each tube is open and ready for filling. A nozzle squirts two ounces of skin cream into the tube. Then the machine heats the open end to soften the plastic, clamps it shut, then cools the plastic to a solid state. When you rub the cream on your skin, the key ingredients, glycerin and lanolin, pack a one-two punch. Glycerin is hydroscopic, meaning it draws water from the air to the skin. Lanolin smoothes the skin, forming a protective film to lock in the moisture. Patio heaters make it possible to dine outside even when it's cold. When this outdoor space heater is turned on, it creates a circle of warmth. The heater can take the chill out of a cold summer evening and extend patio season well into the fall. It's a chill day, but not on this patio. It has its own microclimate, one that's warm and toasty. It's all thanks to the infrared heater overhead. To make a patio heater, an engineer first maps out the design on a computer. He transfers the design to cutting equipment, like this laser. It cuts screw holes and vents into steel that's covered by a protective plastic film. The laser also cuts a part that will be shaped into the patio heater's housing. After removing the plastic film, a worker places the steel between the jaws of a press brake. It bends the part to form a rim around the edges. Additional bends give the part a rounded profile. A laser probe checks that the worker's fingers are not getting too close to the jaws. Once all the parts have been cut and shaped, the patio heater is ready to be assembled. A worker creates a reflector that will direct heat down and out of the unit. Then he attaches an insulator to the reflector. It will protect the roof and walls that the heater will be mounted to. He inserts the insulator and reflector assembly. The legs of the reflector assembly fit into the laser-cut holes in the housing. He temporarily places the control box cover at the end of the housing. Then he aligns and welds a side panel to the housing. He welds a second panel to the other side. After covering the assembly with protective plastic again, he grinds down the welded seam. This gives the patio heater unit cleaner edges. He buffs the seams to a low sheen using a cloth wheel and polishing paste. This makes the seams blend in with the steel. The burner is next. It's made of steel but has a ceramic grill with hundreds of tiny holes. This contoured pattern allows heat to radiate in all directions. He tucks insulation into the heater body to protect it from the hot burner. Then he installs the burner on top of the insulation. It fits snugly to the reflector and insulator framework. He places a separator at one end of the burner, leaving a space for a control box and gas line. He inserts the control box and connects the gas line to the burner. He attaches the spark igniter and temperature sensor to the separator. He secures the burner to the main assembly with screws. He tucks the electronic controls into the control box and connects all of the wiring. He seals the control box with a metal plate and rubber gasket. This makes the electronics watertight. Finally, he adds a vented panel to the top of the controls and a metal grill to the rest of the heater. Over at a test station, a technician powers up the heater using a remote-control system. He checks for gas leaks or blockages and confirms that the temperature rises in response to the remote control's commands. This patio heater has passed all of the tests and is now ready for the outside world, where people are sure to be attracted to its warm glow. In the early days of the automobile, wheels had wood spokes and rims. But by the 1920s, manufacturers began using more durable materials, like iron and steel. Today, wood-spoke wheels are used in classic-car restoration. In the early 1900s, cars had wood-spoke wheels. When those antique vehicles need new wheels, collectors turn to wheelwrights. They can build wood-spoke wheels just as it was done a century ago. Production starts with the steel rim that wraps around the wood wheel. The steel spins in a lathe as stationary tools cut it to the correct profile and create a lip for gripping the rubber tire. A worker measures the rim to confirm it's the same as the original. You can see the difference the machining has made. Another member of the team measures the moisture content of hickory wood and selects boards that are sufficiently dried. He traces a rough pattern of a wheel spoke and cuts along the penciled lines. This gives him a basic shape to work with. Next he selects a more exact pattern. He clamps this pattern in a wood carving duplicator alongside four of the rough spokes. He follows the contours of the pattern with a tracing wheel. The tracing wheel moves cutting tools that carve the hickory. This duplicates the profile of the wheel spoke pattern. He sands off marks left by the cutting tools and smoothes the surface of the newly formed spokes. Then he secures the spokes one at a time in a jig. This steadies the spokes as he cuts the wider ends into a wedge shape. Together, two wheelwrights arrange the spokes in a wheel formation. The wedges fit together at the center like pieces of a pie. They tighten clamps to bring the spokes into perfect alignment. One of the wheelwrights inserts a steel hub in the center hole. He drills holes into the wood and inserts bolts to secure the steel hub. Using a tool that's like a big pencil sharpener, he carves the ends of the spokes, creating dowels. Dowels are peg-like fasteners. He sands the dowels on an angle to create a gentle slope in each one. These slopes make it easier to slide the spokes into the two-part wood rim. Using a special tool, the team stretches the rim and pulls the spokes into position. Then they insert the doweled ends of the spokes into the holes. This process is difficult. One wrong move, and they could damage the spokes or rim. But thanks to their skill, the wood-spoke wheel comes together. All of the parts are intact, and the spokes are firmly secured in the rim. A wheelwright measures the circumference of the wood rim and calculates how much will need to be trimmed off. He shaves down the wheel, adjusting the circumference to the desired dimension. The wheel must be slightly larger than the outer steel rim. You'll see why next. They place the steel rim over an intense gas flame and cover it with a piece of metal. The heat causes the steel rim to expand. After about 15 minutes, the wheelwright removes the cover. He grips the hot rim with tongs and transfers it to the wood wheel. The enlarged steel rim fits loosely around the outside of the wooden wheel. They now spray the steel with cold water. As the rim cools, it shrinks to the hickory wood, creating a permanent bond. The wheelwright shaves the spokes down to make them look more streamlined. He sands the wood to enhance the grain. It took 16 hours to make this wood-spoke wheel. It's brand-new, but looks like a thing of the past.