Car Headlamps Directional Drills Pet Grooming Combs Stained Glass Restoration
Headlights aren't just functional. They're often the first design feature that catches the eye of a potential buyer. Unlike the metal and glass versions of the past, today's headlights are made of durable plastics that can be creatively molded into a multitude of shapes. In addition to the main beam, this pickup truck headlight has an integrated amber turn signal and daytime running light. Most of the headlight's components are made of injection-molded plastic. The machine melts plastic pellets into a gooey liquid, then shoots it into a mold for the specific part. The headlight lenses are made of clear polycarbonate, a strong plastic that's resistant to extreme heat and cold. The molding process stresses the plastic. To relieve that stress, they put the lens into an annealing oven for 20 minutes. When the lens comes out, they wipe it down with an anti-static cloth and inspect the surface meticulously. Next, a robot sprays the lens with a protective coating. This will prevent scratches, chips, or yellowing from exposure to ultraviolet rays. They run the lens through a tunnel oven to cure it. This component is the reflector for the headlight's main beam. It's made of fiberglass-reinforced polyester. They sand away any excess material, then hand wash the part with soap and water to remove any polyester residue left by the sanding. Then, they put the reflector into a machine similar to a dishwasher. A robot sprays on a coat of primer. It goes on clear, but turns yellow after it cures in an oven. Now comes the process that makes the reflector reflective. Inside an aluminizing chamber, a fixture rotates the reflector on its own axis as well as around copper electrodes at the center of the machine. An electrical charge to the copper electrodes generates heat, which vaporizes an aluminum wire that's wrapped around a spiral tungsten filament. The aluminum becomes a mist that deposits evenly across the surface of the reflector. Now they assemble the headlight, beginning with the housing. It's made of injected-molded polypropylene. After installing the reflector for the daytime running light, they attach the main beam reflector. They include pivots and adjusting screws so that the beam level can be customized. They screw in the reflector for the turn signal. It's made of aluminized plastic. Then, a robot applies a sealant which prevents water, dust, and insects from penetrating the housing. They place the assembly in a lens binding machine. Then, they insert the main beam lens, which has already been joined to the turn signal and daytime running lights. The top of the binding machine descends, securing these assemblies to each other with screws. Next, they screw in a halogen bulb for the main beam reflector. The bulb has two filaments for a high and low beam. Then, they add halogen bulbs for the turn signal and daytime running lights. The last step is to level the main beam reflector. This leveling machine tells them which adjustable screws to turn to tilt the reflector into the correct position. This is the manufacturer's default setting. Auto makers can change this before installing the headlights in their vehicles. This model hooks up to wiring coming from the pickup truck. Some headlights have built-in wiring that connects to the vehicle. It's easy to change a burnt out bulb in both designs. You simply lift the hood of the vehicle to access the bulb from the rear of the headlight housing. When work crews need to lay pipes or cables, they use a directional drill to bore a horizontal hole underground. It enters the ground at an angle, drills underneath the surface horizontally, then exits at an angle on the other end. A directional drill enters the ground at an 18 degree angle. Once it reaches the desired depth, it drills horizontally. The machine can attach several onboard drill rods for increased drilling distance. Most of the machine's parts are made of steel, cut to the required shape by a computer-guided laser. Workers use a press brake to bend certain parts. This is part of the drill's undercarriage, the frame on which everything else sits. After they bend this part, they weld it to other parts to build the engine mount. They weld the engine mount to the rest of the undercarriage. Once the undercarriage is complete, they clean the steel with a chemical to maximize the adhesion of the industrial-grade primer and paint. Once the paint dries, they install a rubber track on each side. Tires leave ruts in the ground, so tracks work better. The track loops around a rail and sprocket at the back. Workers mount the sprocket on a hydraulically-powered motor, then align the sprocket teeth with the track. When the motor runs, the sprocket rotates, driving the track. They apply thread-locking fluid to the bolts that secure the sprocket to the motor. This ensures the sprocket won't loosen. Then, they install a track tensioning spring and tighten it with a pneumatic wrench. Next, the steel hydraulic tank. It holds the hydraulic oil for the machine's 23 different hydraulic functions. Now the water pump. It lubricates the drill rod with water to help it move through the ground. It also cleans the machine after each drilling job. They install the pivot mechanism that opens and closes the engine hood. Now that the hydraulic tank, water pump, and hood pivot are in place, they begin installing the machine's diesel engine. It's similar to a tractor engine. They connect its wiring to the operator console and several other components on the machine. The operator console consists of the driver seat, dashboard lcd display, and joystick controls. Next, they join the rack containing all the drilling components to the undercarriage. They install two plastic tanks-- white for water, black for fuel. Then, the onboard computer that runs the engine and drilling components. They also install control valves for the hydraulic lines. They mount the rod box, which holds 40 drill rods, each measuring 2 inches in diameter by 10 feet in length. Larger models have longer and wider drill rods. They connect the ventilated plastic hood to the hood pivot they installed earlier. They close the hood over the engine, then apply make and model number decals. This directional drilling machine is now fully built and ready for testing. As the rack tilts down at the front, hydraulically-powered outrigger feet at the back descend, raising the machine into the drill position. Giant augurs at the front keep the machine on the ground. The rack's gearbox is powered by a hydraulic motor. It rotates the drill rod while the carriage moves the rod through the ground. When the job's done, the carriage moves back, retracting the rod. With all its rods joined together, this small machine can drill almost 400 feet. Pet grooming combs are specifically designed for animal fur. They can get down to the roots to detangle, loosen, and remove dead hair. A good grooming comb is essential to the primping process. It's believed that the pets of british and french nobility were the first to be regularly groomed centuries ago. Today, a lot of pets receive the royal treatment. At this factory, pet combs start with bundles of long brass bars. A computer-guided saw slices them into 6-inch pieces. Each piece will be transformed into a comb body. An employee inserts six of the brass pieces into a vice and tightens the clamps. A computerized drill carves dimples into the ends of each of the blanks. This is called a predrill. The drill returns to each dimple, producing precisely-cut holes to join the comb body to a handle. Next, a computerized drill bores into the brass pieces, creating small holes for the comb's teeth. The spacing of the holes varies depending on the type of comb being made. Combs with tightly-spaced teeth are used for finer fur. The combs are now ready for teeth. An employee inserts three comb bodies in a fixture, then grabs a handful of steel pins and pops them into the holes, one by one. These steel teeth aren't sharp. They've been blunted to avoid hurting the animal during combing. She gently taps the steel teeth with a hammer to force them further into the holes. She brushes off any residual shavings from the earlier drilling. Then, she places the combs on a demagnetizer. It erases any magnetic fields in the steel teeth that could compromise the chrome plating finish they will soon receive. Next, a punch sets the steel teeth in their final position. At another station, a device cuts extruded aluminum into shorter pieces. These pieces of aluminum will be the pet comb handles. Their contoured shape is designed for easy gripping. A worker clamps one of the handles in a fixture. It holds the handle steady as he drills rivet holes in both ends. The fixture also helps locate the holes through lined channels called bushings. By drilling through the bushings, he produces accurate rivet holes every time. In the meantime, the comb assembly has been plated with a rust-resistant nickel and chrome finish. It's ready to be joined to the handle. An employee aligns the holes in the comb with the holes in the handle, and places them in a riveter. The tool flattens the rivets against the handle on both sides. Then, she dabs adhesive around the open ends of the handle and inserts plastic caps. She hammers the caps down. The glue sets quickly, creating a strong seal. After about a half hour of work, this pet grooming comb is now complete. It should last for many years. There will, no doubt, be many tangles ahead, but this comb will pull through them. And, in the end, fido will look and feel a whole lot better. Stained glass windows add beauty and light to places of worship. Over time, exposure to the elements and pollution can cause the glass, metal framework, and glazing to deteriorate. Restoration ensures the survival of these sacred works of art for future generations. They are incredible picture windows. Each stained glass panel depicts a religious scene. But it is a fragile art, and often, only a restoration can ensure its survival. It starts with a thorough evaluation. An assessor photographs the window. She examines every part as well as measures the panes and connecting lead strips known as cames. She numbers the parts and loads information about their condition into a computer. These cames are in bad shape, so they'll need to completely disassemble the panel and rebuild it. First, they make a rubbing. A member of the team places a large sheet of paper over the back of the window. He rubs a wax crayon over the raised led strips to transfer the pattern of the panes. After testing the condition of the paint on the panes, he submerges the glass in a non-acidic cleaning solution, and leaves it overnight. This softens the glazing cement between the lead strips so the window can be easily disassembled. He clips off the lead strips. He extracts the glass and cleans off the glazing using a straight-edged razor. He gently scrubs off residue with a soft-bristle brush, and wipes the glass clean. He pieces together the glass panes within the paper pattern. Most of the panes are in good condition and can be preserved. But one is fractured and held together with special conservation tape. They'll need to replace it. A craftsperson traces the outline of the cracked piece onto a new piece of glass. She scores the new glass, giving the outline a wide margin. She snaps the glass along the score line, then cuts the glass along the tracing lines. She compares the pieces to confirm they have the same silhouette. She copies the designs onto the new pane and mixes a matte paint that matches the one on the broken pane. She then shades the designs on the new pane with the matte paint. She dabs it with a brush to create fine, crisscrossed lines. Then, she switches to a brush with shorter and stiffer bristles. She removes some of the paint, following the designs on the pane. This creates highlights. She fires the glass in a hot kiln, and then lowers the temperature to anneal it. This process reduces brittleness. Switch compares the replicated pane to the broken one. She joins all the stained glass panes using new lead cames. She taps the panes gently with a rubber mallet to fit them snugly into the grooves of the cames. This lead matrix will both unify the numerous panes and create visual interest with bold strokes. Using an electric soldering iron, she melts tin and lead solder where the channeled lead strips intersect. These solder joints hold the window's lead skeleton together. Another team member applies glazing cement across the front and back of the stained glass panel. The cement provides waterproofing and added strength. He sprinkles calcium carbonate onto the wet cement. It's known as whiting. The whiting soaks up excess oil in the glaze. As he brushes it off, it cleans and polishes the panel. He trims the cement around the lead strips to give them a clean edge. Finally, he vacuums up the glazing residue. With the restoration complete, he props the stained glass panel against a backlight. It shines like new when illuminated. It's taken about a week to restore this stained glass window. It should last another century or more, providing plenty of opportunities for spiritual reflection.