aries, and other objects
of devotion lay exposed for sale, which we were loudly called upon
to purchase. Slipshod women, their black hair escaping, matted and
disordered, from the  handkerchiefs bound about their heads;
beggars in every stage and form of human misery—blind, palsied, maimed;
squalid children; lean, fighting dogs; portly priests; dirty pilgrims
with staff and scallop-shell: such is the appearance of the crowd that
greets the traveller on entering Loretto.

On reaching the inn, we found a fresh assemblage of mendicants drawn
up in array in the courtyard; objects so dirty and revolting, that
one involuntarily shrunk from contact with them: and clamorous, even
peremptory, in their demands, which are in general liberally complied
with. Their trade is supposed to be a thriving one, since the majority
of persons repairing to the town, do so from religious motives, and
esteem this promiscuous alms-giving a stringent duty. Besides these,
we encountered upon the unswept stairs several women with baskets of
rosaries and medals, which they kept importuning us to buy, that we
might have them blessed at the Santa Casa; and lastly, two or three
tottering old men waylaid us on the landing, and pressingly offered
themselves as our _ciceroni_ to the shrine. But it was too late, or
rather we were too weary for any more sight-seeing that day; and as
soon as dinner was concluded, we were glad enough to betake ourselves
to repose.

Recruited by a night of well-earned sleep, the next morning found us
assembled in the general sala of the inn, waiting for breakfast and the
return of the V—— family, who, the servants told us, had gone out soon
after dawn. They speedily came in with cheerful faces, having fulfilled
all the devotional exercises prescribed to devout Roman Catholics
on their first visit to the Santa Casa, and were now ready to enter
cordially into the survey of the church and all the curiosities it
contained.

While we were still at table, we heard a voice in rich oily tones,
accompanied by a boisterous 