ays, several ladies, acquaintances of the
family, came to call upon me, and in the evenings most of the gentlemen
came to pay their respects in form to the new-comer; so that, aided
by a few hints from my cousins, I was soon quite _au fait_ as to the
leading tastes and characteristics of my present associates. What
struck me most at first, was their excessive ceremoniousness and
formality. I never had before seen such courtesies and bows exchanged,
or could have deemed it possible that rational beings could endure
to hear themselves addressed, or address each other so unceasingly by
their titles, as did the _principi_, _marchesi_, and _conti_ by whom
I was surrounded. Then the observance of certain rules of etiquette
was laughable in the extreme—it seemed to be an understood thing
that the mistress of the house, on the departure of any lady-visitor,
should offer to accompany her to the door. This politeness was to be
refused, then insisted on, still remonstrated against; and so on, till
the contested point being reached, the visitor should retreat with a
gentle pressure of the hand, and a profound reverence. Amongst the
ladies, I perceived I was surveyed with a good deal of interest on
account of some fashionable novelties in my wardrobe. One lady took
up my dress, and after looking attentively at its texture, asked me
what it had cost, and whether I thought she could send for one like
it from Florence. I found out afterwards this was meant to be a great
compliment to my taste, and that the loan of a new pattern for a dress
or mantle was looked upon as an inestimable benefit.

The conversation did not seem very brilliant—and yet, after all, what
is ladies' morning-visit prattle at the best? I think it was as good as
some it had been my lot to hear in a more brilliant sphere. They talked
of the weather, and the opera there would be after Christmas—we were
still in October!—and of their children. Yes, let us do them justice
there. I do not think more maternal love and anxiety and tenderness can
anywhere be 